Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

CHAPTER 8
EFFECT OF SEAM AND STITCHES ON DRAPABILITY
8.1 Introduction:
In cut and sewn apparel products, seams are formed when two or more pieces of
fabrics are held together by stitches. As the seam and stitch are one of the basic
requirements in the construction of apparel, it has great significance in apparel products.
Consumers evaluate good appearance based on seam quality and its durability after
wear and care procedures based on stitch formation.
In general, the appearance of the apparels mainly depends on the formation of
the seam with different types of stitches. Seam strength and appearance affects both the
functional and aesthetic performance of an apparel product and is important to its
salability and durability. A good quality seam must have flexibility and strength with no
seaming defects such as puckering or skipped stitches, and the overall appearance of the
seam must meet the design requirements of the apparel products.
With the earlier chapter discussion was made for the fabric properties and effect
on the drapability of the fabrics. Also discussed regarding the effect of seam formation
on the draping quality of the fabrics. So this chapter mainly concentrates on the effect
of formation of various seam and its combination with various types of stitches used in
the apparel, particularly in the upper wear garments. Apparels may be beautiful with
good design, but without the right seams and stitches in the right places, its beauty will
be short lived.
Fabric drape behaviour is one of the garment qualitative
attributes/characteristics which is assessed visually by human eye and depends on fabric
properties and surrounding atmospheres. Therefore, it was evaluated subjectively in the
textile and apparel industry.
8.2 Materials and methods
8.2.1 Materials
The upper garment i.e. the shirt under study was made with 100% cotton fabrics for the
premium shirts. The specification of the material used is given in table 1.

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Table 8.1: Fabric specification

Medium
Sr. Light Weight Heavyweight
Parameter Weight
No. Fabric Fabric
Fabric
1 Ends/inch 168 160 152
2 Picks/inch 102 58 62
3 Warp Yarn Count (Ne) 65.62 49.21 32.81
4 Weft Yarn Count (Ne) 49.21 21.87 13.12
5 Warp crimp % 3% 2% 6%
6 Weft crimp % 6% 8% 10%
7 Warp cover factor 20.73 22.80 26.53
8 Weft cover factor 14.54 12.40 17.11
9 Cloth cover factor 24.50 25.10 27.42
10 GSM of fabrics 116 127 222

8.2.2 Methods
The stitch samples are prepared on the single needle lock stitch machine of
make Silversun of model SMX 8700. The Needle number used is DB X 1 of 14 Nos.
for light and medium weight whereas DB X 1 of 16 No. is used for the heavyweight
material. The sewing thread used was 3 ply polyester having ticket number 80. The
same thread is used to avoid any variation for seam formation. Apart from this
overlock, multithread chain stitch and flat lock machines were used for the stitching of
the sample preparation of shirts. All specimens were ironed at standard temperature and
conditioned at 270C and 65% RH for 24 hours before testing.

For manufacturing, the shirt various seams are used. In the research study, the
shirt is assembled with a superimposed seam, lapped seam and flat seam. The
experimentation was carried out with a combination of the superimposed seam with
lock stitch in 3 different GSM of a fabric. Likewise, the lapped seam with chain stitch
and flat lock with covering chain stitches was used for the preparation of 9 samples
with lightweight, medium weight, and heavy weight GSM of fabrics. Following seam
and stitch combination is used for Shirt sample preparation under study.

1. Superimposed seam and lock stitch

2. Lapped seam with chain stitches
3. Flat lock seam and covering chain stitch

8.2.3 Seam and stitch sample preparation: The samples are prepared on the single
needle lock stitch sewing machine for the stiffness and drape coefficient with a seam.

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 Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

Hence, the seam is formed on the samples according to the seam standards. Actually, in
the garment when the seams are used these are basically formed with the same
allowance rather than varying seam allowance. But different types of seams are mostly
used in a wide variety of garments. So here the study was made particularly with the
seams used for the bottom wear and upper wear garments.

The figure shows the representative sample preparation for the DC% and
stiffness calculation with seams.

Figure 8.1: Sample preparation for drape coefficient and stiffness

The samples for the upper wear garments particularly for shirts were prepared
from varying GSM viz. lightweight, medium weight and heavyweight, by forming the
basic seams like a superimposed, lapped, and flat seam. It is very important here to
discuss the properties of the seams though explained earlier in the literature review.
5. Superimposed seam: The superimposed seam is the most commonly used seam
in the garment. The panels of the garment are just exactly kept over each other
and then the stitch is formed on that garment panels to be joined together. So the
limited edge of the panels is overlapped over each other.

Figure 8.2: Denotation for the superimposed seam.

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 Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

As shown in the diagram the two layers of the fabrics were exactly kept over
each other and the dotted line shows form the stitches over it for joining
purpose.
6. Lapped seam: The lapped seam is formed when the limited edge of the panels of
the fabrics are overlapped for the limited width. This type of lapped seam
formation is basically seen in the shirts. As shown in the below figure the one
edge of the fabric is folded inside to the other edge of the fabric, so that the firm
locking is formed between the edges of the fabric and over which the stitches
are formed for joining purpose.

Figure 8.3: Denotation for lapped seam

7. Flat seam: The flat seam as the name itself explains aims to reduce the thickness
of the seams. Because when any seams will be formed the thickness at the
overlapping area will be doubled or in the multiplication of original sample. So
in this seam, the samples are just butted together. This is mostly suitable for the
joining the panels of the undergarments so to avoid any discomfort to the body.

Figure 8.4: flat seam

Stitch formation
1. Lock stitch

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 Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

It is the most common stitch made by the single needle lockstitch sewing
machine. The lock stitch uses two threads upper thread which passes through the needle
and bottom thread i.e. bobbin thread. Lock stitches are the secured stitches because they
formed the locking with each successive needle penetration and hence it’s unravelling is
quite difficult.

Figure 8.5: Lock stitch

2. Chain stitch
Chain stitch is made by using one or more group of sewing threads. The stitch
which is formed by using two or more groups of sewing thread is called multi-thread
chain stitch. Here, the loop of one group sewing threads is bounded by interloping with
the loop of another group of sewing threads. Stitch type-401 is called multi-thread chain
stitch.

Figure 8.6: Chain stitch

3. Covering chain stitches:
Class-600 named as covering chain stitch which is produced with three groups
of threads. Threads of two groups can be seen from either side, the first group of the
thread is called needle thread, the second group is called top cover thread and the third

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group is called bottom cover thread. This stitch is very complex and uses up to 9
threads in producing this types of stitch. These types of stitch are used for knits,
lingerie, binding elastics, decoration, etc.

Figure 8.7: Covering chain stitches

8.3. Results and Discussion
8.3.1 Stiffness testing
Bending length known as drape Stiffness is very important property which
decides the two-dimensional drape of the fabric. As studied by the pierce [4] this
property is one of the major for the study of the drape. The rectangular strip of fabric is
mounted on the horizontal platform and slides until the fabric overhang like a
cantilever. Flexural rigidity was also calculated by multiplying the thickness of the
samples and expressed in the table below.

Shirley stiffness tester was used for stiffness calculation. The testing was done
according to IS 6490-1971 based on the BS 3356: 1961 and ASTM Designation: D
1388-64. The average of the five samples each taken for the warp and weft way. Prior
to the test, the fabric samples were conditioned at moisture equilibrium and tested in
standard atmospheric conditions of 65 % RH and 270 C temperature

Table 8.2: Flexural rigidity (mg-cm)

Sr.
Shirt Samples Lightweight Medium weight Heavyweight
No.
1 Original (without seam) 266.43 382.63 537.82
2 Superimpose Seam & lockstitch 844.87 1301.33 1660.13
Flat Seam & Covering chain
3 494.35 1392.49 1443.71
stitch
4 Lapped Seam & chain stitch 4358.82 7266.1 6793.98

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 Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

F lex u ra l rigidity of th e fa b rics

800 0

flexural rigidity (mg-cm)

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600 0
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Figure 8.8: Flexural rigidity of the different GSM fabrics

The figure 8.8 and the table 8.2 shows the flexural rigidity of the light, medium
and heavyweight fabric. The lapped seam is formed with chain stitch combination. As
lapped seam is formed by binding the hem together of the fabrics and hence it shows
more resistance towards the bending of the fabrics. Whereas the flat seam forms almost
the same type of combination as that of original fabrics although the fabric shows more
resistance to bending than the original without seam fabrics. This is because of the
formation of the flat seam as very less thickness is used for the joining of the edges of
the fabrics.
Overall it can see that if the thickness and the weight are the influencing factors
for flexural rigidity. So the increase in thickness will increase the stiffness and found to
be more in heavyweight fabric and lapped seam.

8.3.2 Seam Strength

Seam strength refers to the load required to break a seam. This measures the
strength and tenacity of a seam. Two pieces of woven fabric are joined by a seam and if
tangential force is applied the seam line, rupture ultimately occurs at or near the seam
line. It is a function of the strength of thread used for the seam, type of seam assembly
in a garment and type of fabric used. Tensile tests on the sample fabrics were performed
to determine seam efficiency using the ASTM D 5034-95 (grab) methods. Or a large

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 Studies in Behaviour of Drapability of Stitched Fabric

number of test are done with ASTM 1683-04 standard which expresses the value of
seam strength in terms of maximum force to cause the seam specimen to rupture.

Table 8.3: Seam strength of warp and weft way samples

Sr. Seams & Stitches Fabric Sample Load in kgf Load in
No. for warp Kgf for
weft
1 Light Weight 48.8 15.2
2 Superimposed seam & lockstitch Medium Weight 22.4 42.2
3 Heavyweight 66.6 26.4
4 Light Weight 37.2 15
5 Lapped seam & Chain Stitch Medium Weight 38.6 10
6 Heavyweight 38 7.06
7 Light Weight 19 14
8 Flat seam & Covering Chain stitch Medium Weight 16 12.8
9 Heavyweight 35 17

seam strength warp way Seam strenght weft way

80 50

60 40
30
40
20
20 10
0 0
Light wt. Medium Heavy Light wt. Medium Heavy

Superimposed & Lockstitch Superimposed & Lockstitch

Flat seam & covering chain stitch Flat seam & covering chain stitch
Lapped with multithread chain stitch Lapped with multithread chain stitch

Figure 8.9: Seam strength in warp and weft way

As observed figure 2, the seam strength for warp way is higher for superimposed
seam and lock stitch combination. Whereas it shows less for the lapped and chain stitch
combination. The strength of seam is the combined effect of fabric strip strength and
seam strength. For the warp, the lockstitch is having more strength than other chain
stitches. Whereas for the weft, the trend shows that the superimposed seam shows
highest seam strength because of its locking for each successive needle penetration.

8.3.4 Seam Efficiency:

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Seam efficiency measures the durability along the seam line. Durability is
identified as necessary to satisfactory seams functional performance and efficient seams
are assumed to be more durable than weak ones. Seam efficiency is measured by the
strength tester, based on the pendulum lever principle according to the ASTM 1683-04
standard method. In this method, seam efficiency was measured by using the following
formula.
       

  
 %  ∗ 100
    

Table 8.4: Seam Efficiency in warp and weft way

Seams & Stitches Fabric Sample Warp efficiency % Weft

efficiency
%
Superimposed & lockstitch Light Weight 17.82 16.48
Medium Weight 63.27 54.35
Heavyweight 4.32 2.22
Lapped & Chain Stitch Light Weight 54.10 23.07
Medium Weight 73.77 45.29
Heavyweight 49.56 37.03
Flat seam & Covering Chain Light Weight 10.14 17.58
Medium Weight 36.27 57.26
Heavyweight 42.24 73.85

Figure 8.10: Seam efficiency in warp and weft direction.

Seam strength is inversely proportional to the fabric strength.The same trend is

seen in the warp direction for the superimposed seam but observed different with other
seam and stitch combination. For the weft way, the same trend is observed. As the

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superimposed is most commonly used seam for shirting whereas another seam
formation is quite different for the lapped and flat seam. And hence the trend for the
superimposed seam is same for warp way and weft way direction.

8.3.5 Seam Shrinkage: This test is carried out for dimensional stability of the seams
after different washing. Shrinkage can be expressed in percentage.

Table 8.5: Seam Shrinkage of samples

Weft
Warp
Sr. No. Seams & Stitches Fabric Sample shrinkage
Shrinkage %
%
1. Light Weight 0.3 0.1
2. Superimposed seam & lockstitch Medium Weight 0.3 0.1
3. Heavyweight 0.4 1.2
4. Light Weight 0.3 0.2
5. Lapped seam & Chain Stitch Medium Weight 0.25 0.2
6. Heavyweight 0.5 1.1
7. Light Weight 0.27 0.3
8. Flat seam & Covering Chain stitch Medium Weight 0.35 0.1
9. Heavyweight 0.4 1.1

Figure 8.11: Seam shrinkage in warp and weft way direction

It is observed from the figure 6, that the heavy weight fabric shows more
shrinkage than the light and medium weight fabrics under study.

8.3.6 Drape coefficient of seamed fabric

The drapeability of seamed fabric or garment affected by both the flexibility of
the materials and by the construction of the seam. The drape is calculated as the area

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covered by the shadow of the draped specimen expressed as a percentage of the annual
ring of fabric.

Table 8.6: Drape Coefficient

Samples Lightweight Medium weight Heavyweight
% % %
Superimposed & Lock stitch 63.67 74.05 78.04
Lapped seam & chain stitch 60.87 66.06 87.35
Flat seam & covering chain 53.69 64.25 70.56
stitch

C h art of Ligh t w eight % , M ediu m w eigh t % , H eav y w eight %

90
D rape c oeffic ient

80
70
60
50
40
30
20
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Figure 8.12: Drape coefficient of different seamed fabric with stitches

The graph shows the drape coefficient of the varying GSM of the fabrics under
study.Superimposed-lock stitch combination and Flat seam-covering chain stitch
combination shows an almost same trend for the drape coefficient of the fabrics.
Whereas the Lapped seam-chain stitch combination shows the higher drape coefficient
for all the varying GSM of the fabrics. This is because of the structure formation with a
lapped seam.

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8.4 Subjective Analysis of samples

There are several dimensions for evaluation of the graceful appearance of the
fabrics. In order to simplify the analysis of appearance, it is essential to choose only
most important evaluating dimensions, which can well represent the overall graceful
appearance of the garment. This study tried to identify the most important dimensions
for the graceful appearance or fall of the garment through the subjective analysis of the
samples.

8.4.1 Selection of the judges

The selection of judges is an important element for the subjective ranking in
order to achieve greater reliability and consistency. The judges were selected from the
Industry and academics of the apparels. It was found that researchers had industrial
experiences in the garment field. They had experiences in areas such as apparel quality
control, apparel design and apparel manufacturing. Based on this the results of the
subjective ranking were calculated and interpreted in the table.

8.4.2 Subjective ranking

In order to evaluate the most important dimensions for the appearance of the
garment i.e. shirts. The researchers were asked to give the ranking based on the
appearance in the following category with the numbers
1. Poor
2. Satisfactory
3. Moderate
4. Good
5. Excellent

The shirts were evaluated with three categories for functionality, serviceability and
appearance of the garment.

Functionality Serviceability Drape of garment

S1 S2 S3 S1 S2 S3 S1 S2 S3
4 4 4 4 4 4 4 4 3

Where,
S1 – lightweight GSM of the fabric
S2 - Medium weight GSM of the fabric
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S3 - Heavyweight GSM of the fabric

So overall the average ranking for the functionality is 4 which indicates that the
shirt will be very good for the functionality whereas for the appearance of the garment
for the light and medium weight shirts shows the good appearance. But the heavyweight
GSM shirt samples shows the Moderate ranking which means the heavy weight shirts
does not look to be more graceful as per the appearance of the shirts is a concern.

8.5 Conclusions
The study was carried out on the different GSM of the fabrics and the effect was
studied with the combination of different seams and stitches, as it was used in the
apparel manufacturing. The following conclusions are drawn
1. Heavyweight fabrics show the more resistance to bending as of flexural
Rigidity, whereas the lapped seam with chain stitch formation exhibits more
flexural rigidity.
2. The seam strength for warp and weft way seems to be more with the
superimposed seam and lock stitch combination.
3. As fabric strength increases, the seam strength efficiency decreases because it is
inversely proportional to the fabric strength. Hence the heavy weight fabric
shows the less seam strength efficiency.
4. The shrinkage of the heavyweight fabrics is more as in comparison with the
light weight and medium weight.
5. The drape coefficient of the lapped seam with heavy weight fabric is more with
other two samples.
6. Light and medium weight GSM shirts show the good appearance than the
heavyweight shirts.

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