T

VOX ®
ONELAB SE ®
TIPS
Operating, maintenance and repair tips for the Tonelab SE pedal
by
RetroBob (the following compilation of articles are the views of the author sourced from personal experience and trade practices)

We’ve prepared the following articles to give you some additional guidance, tips and a few secrets. We sincerely hope we’ve given you all the knowledge and information you’ll need
to make your Tonelab SE perform like it was meant to for years and years of pleasure!
Enjoy!
*Not responsible for errors or emissions. All information is USE AT YOUR OWN RISK, reader/user accepts full responsibility for damages, injuries and/or liabilities that may incur from
use of this material.

HOW TO BIAS (TRIM) THE TUBE

IT’S QUICK AND SIMPLE TO DO
And it makes a huge difference in how the tube and the Tonelab SE react with each other!
Perform this procedure every time you change the tube. Also, it’s a good idea to do this periodically to compensate for tube wear. If the tube is not biased to the circuit, it will not
perform or sound its best.
This procedure adjusts the output of the tube to match the Tonelab’s circuits for optimal performance. Different tubes have different outputs and tube wear effects output as
well. When the tube’s output matches the Tonelab’s circuits, the tube will have its best tone and feel.
BIAS (TRIM) THE TUBE it’s easy
1. Turn the power off.
2. Unplug all cables from the unit EXCEPT the power cable.
HOLD DOWN TOGETHER & TURN POWER ON
CHAIN RENAME GLOBAL

WRITE EXIT

3. Hold the "UP" (^) and "RENAME" buttons down simultaneously (at the LCD section panel section) and turn the unit on.

TUBE TRM - OR - TUBE TRIM

4. Release the buttons a few seconds after the unit is turned on, the unit should display tube trm (or tube trim) on the lcd screen.
5. Wait at least five minutes for the tube to fully warm up (bias function will not work correctly until the tube is fully warmed up).
6. Use a very small (miniature) philips head screwdriver and adjust the pot that’s located in between the return and right output jacks on the rear (a tiny pot is situated
inside the little hole there), gently feel around with the screw driver until it fits.

This is the tube bias access hole

7. Slowly turn the pot right and left while watching the tuner LEDs, as you turn the pot the tuner LEDs will start going on and off, turn slowly and watch for the green
LED to light up, then all LEDs light up. The tube is at optimal bias when all 5 tuner LEDs are lit up.
LOW HIGH PERFECT

8. Turn the power off to exit the tube bias mode.

TIP; occasionally the bias pot will appear to be in-operative (tuner LEDs flash sporadically or not at all), usually this is caused by a little dirt inside the bias pot, rotating it
several times fully back and forth will usually clear it up. Occasionally chemical cleaning is required (see Cleaning Potentiometers).
That’s it, you’re done. EASY!

HOW TO CHANGE THE TUBE

THE EASY WAY
The tube can be changed from the top without taking the unit apart by following a simple procedure. And it only takes a few minutes!

CHANGE THE TUBE the easy way!

1. Turn the power off and remove the power cable from the unit.
2. With the unit upright in the play position, use a 3mm hex wrench and remove the two top and one bottom right side screws from the clear tube cover, then loosen

Remove
Rotate the cover to
these three
screws expose the tube

the remaining lower left cover screw until the cover will rotate to the left exposing the tube access box completely (leave this one screw loose, but in place to keep
the box inside the chassis aligned).

The tape forms

a handle on the
tube
Blue tape applied The tape forms a
to heel
the oftube handle on the tube
19/64" hole is drilled in the pedal chassis under the the volume pedal for the pedal stop.
19/64" hole is drilled in the pedal chassis under the heel of the volume pedal for the pedal stop.

! Before drilling verify all locations for alignment, clearance and match hole diameter to
2-5/8" 1/4"
re drilling verify all locations for alignment, clearance
rivet-nut and matchPCB
requirements. holeunder
diameter to metal MUST be unfastened and moved out of the
volume 2-5/8" 1/4"
nut requirements. PCB under volume metal wayMUST bedrilling!
before unfastened and moved out of the
efore drilling!
3. Place a piece of blue painters tape approximately 4” long by 3/4” wide around both sides of the tube and up onto themselves forming a flag at the top on the tube
with the flag coming out of the tube box, the tape forms a handle on the tube.

19/64" hole is drilled in the pedal chassis under the heel of the volume pedal for the pedal stop.

rilling verify all locations for alignment, clearance and match hole diameter to
equirements. © Bob
PCBWebb (akavolume
under RetroBob) withMUST
metal all rights reserved 2021and moved out of the
be unfastened USE AT
2-5/8" YOUR
1/4" OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 1 of 9
e drilling!
 4. Using a popsicle stick (or similar) and the tape as a handle, gently wiggle the tube as you push the base of the tube out of its socket with the popsicle stick, using
the tape handle to retrieve the tube out of the box.
Use a popsicle stick
to push the tube out
Use a popsicle stick
to push the tube out
of the socket Use the tape to
of its socket remove the tube

5. Note the socket to tube orientation, how the pins align. Orientate the new tube to match the socket and place the blue tape on the tube (same as the retrieval
method), placing the tape on the sides of the tube, but do not tape around the tube, leave the tape slightly loose on the sides.
Note the pin spacing has Tape the tube so
a larger gap in one area it aligns the pin
orientation to
the socket

19/64" hole is drilled in the pedal chassis under the heel of the volume pedal for the pedal stop.

Before drilling verify all locations for alignment, clearance and match hole diameter to
2-5/8"
vet-nut requirements. PCB under 6. volume
Using theMUST
metal tapebeflag as a handle,
unfastened and movedinsert the new tube into the tube box and1/4"
out of the align the pins to the socket, use the popsicle stick (or similar) to gently push between the
ay before drilling! top of the box and the tube seating the tube into its socket completely.
Use a popsicle
Use a popsicle stick to push the
stick to push the
tube into the
top of the tube into its socket
socket

7. Remove the tape from the tube and check that the tube is still seated. Rotate the cover back into place, install the screws and slightly snug them. Careful do not
over tighten the screws or the plastic cover may crack.
That’s it, you’re done. EASY! All that’s left is to bias the tube.

HOW TO REPAIR THE ARROW/COMMAND PLASTIC BUTTONS

IT’S NOT ALWAYS THE SWITCHES THAT CAUSE THE PROBLEMS
The little arrow and command
19/64"
19/64" hole is
hole buttons
is drilled
drilled in theare
in the a little
pedal
pedal frail,under
chassis
chassis sometimes
under the heel
the pushing
heel of
of down
the volume
the volume hard
pedal
pedal for will
for causestop.
the pedal
the pedal the actuator pin at the underside of the “arrow/command” buttons bend/deform.
stop.
When this happens the pin does not align with the tact switches below it and the button no longer works.

!
Fortunately,
Before the buttons
Before drilling
drilling verify allcan
verify all usuallyfor
locations
locations bealignment,
for repaired.clearance
alignment, The plastic
clearance andassembly
and match hole
match attached
hole diametertoto
diameter tothe LCD display board that holds the plastic arrow/command buttons needs to be removed
2-5/8"
2-5/8" 1/4"
1/4"
rivet-nut
from
rivet-nut requirements.
the chassis
requirements. PCB under
and separated
PCB under volume
from metal MUST
the PCB/LCD.
volume metal MUST be unfastened
unfastened
Slightly
be and
heat theand moved
plastic
moved out
at out of
the of the
pin area, don’t get it hot, just warm enough so
the it moves easily, then while it’s warm gently
way before drilling!
straightening the pin and let it cool. After the plastic cools, examine the pin to be sure it is straight (repeat if needed). Once straight, reinforce around the pin inside the cupped
way before drilling!
area with a little 5 minute epoxy, you can fill the cupped area around the pin with epoxy just short of the top of the cupped area if needed, just don’t fill beyond flush.

Sometimes the pin breaks off, save it and glued back into place using a little super glue, then re-enforce the area with epoxy. Occasionally the pin is missing (it is no where in
sight), you can carve a new pin from a small piece of plastic (model car parts casting trees work great for this), glue the new pin in place and re-enforce around it with epoxy.
With a little patients and ingenuity the plastic buttons are as good as new.

Activation pin is bent, does not Activation pinpin

Activation straightened and
straightened
align with tact switch below it andreinforced with
re-enforced epoxy
with epoxy

Epoxy re-enforcement

ARROW AND COMMAND BUTTONS

WHEN THE BUTTON SEPARATES FROM ITS PLASTIC HOLDER

WHILE RARE, IT DOES HAPPEN
Fortunately, it can be repaired in a similar manner as above. Remove the plastic assembly attached to the LCD display board that holds the plastic arrow/command buttons,
Slightly heat the plastic at the damaged area, don’t get it hot, just warm enough so it moves easily, then while it’s warm gently straightening re-align the parts and let it cool.
After the plastic cools, examine the alignment to be sure it is straight (repeat if needed). Once straight, place it on top of a piece of wax paper, align the parts and apply a drop
of super glue at the joint, let it dry.

WARM THE PLASTIC RE-ALIGN GLUE

PLASTIC LEG HOLDING BUTTON BREAKS

Once the glue dries, at the back side, bend a piece of guitar string .009-.010 gauge wire as shown, apply a thin layer of epoxy at the damaged leg area as shown and bed the
wire into the epoxy, let it dry.When the epoxy dries, apply a small amount of epoxy over the wire to reinforce it and ensure the wire can’t come off, let it dry. The guitar string wire
reinforces the break and allows the leg to bend when the button is pushed.

Epoxy under and over

the wire, and into the
button's cupped area

BEND THE WIRE SO IT RUNS ALONG THE FRAME

ONTO THE LEG AND INTO THE SWITCH CUP

With a little patients and ingenuity the plastic buttons are as good as new.

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 2 of 9
HOW TO ADJUST THE EXPRESSION PEDALS TENSION
Occasionally, the expression pedal tension becomes loose or tight, causing difficulty in the pedals movement, becoming hard to move or won’t stay put. Here’s how to adjust
the pedal tension;
ADJUSTING THE PEDAL TENSION it’s easy
1. Disconnect the power supply and turn the pedal over. At the heel area under each expression pedal there is a hole to access the tension adjustment.

2. Use a 3mm hex wrench through the hole and engage the adjustment screw, turn to the right to tighten (more tension), left to loosen (less tension), adjust to the
desired pedal tension.

UNDERSIDE OF PEDAL

Expression pedals are shown for

location verification only, you will
not actually see them from the
underside
ON THE UNDERSIDE OF THE PEDAL AT THE EXPRESSION PEDAL'S HEEL ARE
TWO HOLES TO ACCESS THE PEDAL TENSION ADJUSTMENT SCREWS

A SURPRISING DIFFERENCE IN TONE

If you find you’re having trouble shaping your tone in a program, it remains dark and muddy no matter how you set the tone controls, turn the VG (virtual gain) up. The VG is
set up like an old style master volume, unfortunately in some models when turned too low it adversely effects the tone circuit (especially amp models that did not have a
master volume). Turning up the VG gives the tone circuit breathing room so it can operate correctly and often clears up tone issues.
And, try both of the output select modes “Amp” and “Line” (global, then left right arrow buttons) for “AP” (amp) and “LN” (line), you’ll be surprised how much the tone changes
between them!
TIP: when using your pedal at the front end of your amp with the “LN” option, turn down your amp’s gain and the pedals output (little knob at the headphone jack), adjust to
match your amp’s input. If your using the “AP” option at your amp’s return, turn the pedals output level up to match your amp’s return input.

A/B CHANNEL HOLD

COOL FEATURE
If you haven’t set this feature up yet you’re in for a surprise! Unfortunately, this is not explained very well in the user’s manual, in my opinion “off” should have been “on”, at
least that makes better sense to me. With that said, let’s try to clear this feature up a little as it really is a very cool feature!
If you set the channel hold to “OFF”, and save your program on the “A” (green) channel, then whenever you switch back (return) to that program the channel will be in the
“A” (green) channel selection. If you set the channel hold to “OFF”, and save your program on the “B” (red) channel, it will return in the “B” channel of that program.
In other words, “OFF” lets you select where the program returns to either “A” (green) or “B” (red) channel, when it is saved in the program that way.
However, if you set the channel hold to “ON”, the program will return to whichever “A” or “B” channel was selected last. Meaning, if you are on the “A” (green) channel, then
switch to another program it will be in the “A” (green) channel, if you are on the “B” (red) channel, then switch to another program it will be in the “B” channel.
To set the Channel Hold;
Press the GLOBAL button, and use the right/left , arrow buttons to access the “CH HOLD” display.
Use CH VOLUME (value knob #6) or the up/down , buttons to change the setting (ON / OFF).
Hit exit.

CONTROL SWITCH
YOUR SECRET WEAPON
The control foot switch can be assigned to turn on/off functions in a program, ie, if you set it to the “pedal” selection it can toggle on/off the selected pedal setting, set to
“modulation” it can toggle on/off the modulation, set to “delay” it can toggle on/off the delay (get the idea), this allows you to quickly turn on or off a single selected effect. And,
the CONTROL foot switch doesn’t change the pedal’s program switching, program (channel) switching remains intact (un-like with the FX switch). The CONTROL foot switch is
extremely convenient and quick for a single effect selection change at a glance. That’s right just one switch, no toggling between several switches! And the channel switching
remains, HUGE!
You can make the following single control settings independently for each program (the control is limited to one effect).
Press the CONTROL button to make it flash (buttons are the small plastic buttons that light up).
TUNNER BANK PUSH THIS BUTTON (flashes when on)
EXPRESSION CONTROL

12

Use the GAIN knob (value knob #1), or the up/down , buttons to select the effect you want to control (you can only choose one).
“I/ON OFF” External effect insertion on/off
“P/ON OFF” Pedal effect on/off
“A/ON OFF” Amp model on/off
“C/ON OFF” Cabinet effect on/off
“M/ON OFF” Modulation effect on/off
“D/ON OFF” Delay effect on/off
“R/ON OFF” Reverb effect on/off
Once you have your desired effect selected (shows in the LCD screen), hit the exit button.

COOL TRICK, use the Control foot switch to turn on or off an effect that’s not needed in a program except maybe during a solo, remember effects are shared, you can’t have
different effects on the “B” from “A” channel or can you!
Let's say you need delay during the solo only, program the delay into the channel program as you normally would and save it, then use the “Control” button to select delay and
hit the exit button, the CONTROL foot switch will now turn the delay on or off in that program. When it’s time for your solo, switch to channel “B” and hit the control foot switch,
BAM, a different effect! And remember, you can use the Control feature for any effect!
NOTE: The Control’s foot switch LED indicates the on/off status, once an effect is selected, the effect’s LED will also turn on/off along with the Control foot switch LED.

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 3 of 9
LEVEL THE PLAYING FIELD
THE VU METER
OK, you’ve got all your programs dialed in for the great tones you want, but the level changes between your programs are driving the sound man crazy!

In the immortal words of Yoda, “Use the force Luke”. Except in our case, it’s the “VU” meter.

If you have access to a mixing board you can use its VU meter to level all your programs, it’s easy just plug your pedal into a channel and activate the VU meter, set your pedal
to line level (if it’s not already, use global and set it to LN), turn your output level up to 3/4 (volume knob at the rear next to headphone jack) and strum your guitar, you’ll see the
VU meter light up. Green is good, a little yellow is OK, red is BAD.

Bring up your first program and strum your guitar (the strum can be open, but needs to be the same through out all programs), adjust your pedal’s CHANNEL volume (last knob
to the right in the EQ section) until the VU meter shows all GREEN but no yellow and hit “WRITE” twice. Repeat this process through all of your programs and they will now all
be the same output levels, it’s that easy.

If you’re using the A/B channel option for leads, set the B channel to YELLOW but no red and you’ll have approximately 2-4db volume boost on your leads. If you have A/B
channels set to return to the A channel when a program is selected, remember to go back to the A channel and save it.

Don’t have access to a VU meter? No problem! We’re putting together a simple 9 volt battery VU METER kit that plugs into your pedal and displays the output level via its LEDs.

That’s it, it’s easy and your sound man will thank you!

HOW TO ALIGN THE RAISED PCB STAND OFFS

IT’S NOT ALWAYS THE SWITCHES THAT CAUSE THE PROBLEMS
There are two foot switch board supports (stand offs) made of stamped sheet metal in the Tonelab SE pedals, these are used to raise the circuit boards up to meet the foot
switch actuators. Occasionally, the stand offs ears where they fasten to the circuit board get slightly bent. When this happens, it bows the circuit board slightly, often this bow is
enough to move the circuit board’s tact switches out of reach of the chassis mounted actuators. This is sometimes mistaken for a bad tact switch, check this before replacing
the tact switch.

Occasionally a bent stand off awill

Occasionally bentwarp
stand offthe
will board
warp the slightly upup
board slightly
moving the board mounted
moving thetact
boardswitch outswitch
mounted tact of reach of its
out of reach of its
actuator (often mistaken for a bad tact switch). Bend it back
actuator (often mistaken
parallelfor a chassis.
to the bad tact switch). Bend it back
parallel to the chassis.
Actuator

Check the stand offs, make sure they are parallel to the chassis. If needed, remove the board from the stand off and gently bend the metal ears that attach the PCB to the stand
off, the ears need to be parallel/square to the chassis.

Bend up or
down to correct Parallel,
Square

After straightening, watch the PCB as you tighten the screws, once the screws are snugged be sure the board is straight and parallel to the chassis (does not bow and sits flat),
re-adjust the ears as needed to get the board to sit flat with the screws snugged.

BOARD SITS FLAT, PARALLEL WITH THE CHASSIS

BOARD

ACTUATOR
CHASSIS

CLEAN AND LUBRICATE THE PEDAL ACTUATORS

Occasionally, dirt and grime builds up in the foot-switch actuator buttons causing them to stick and sometime not release completely, this can cause faulty switching problems.
Clean and lubricate the pedal actuators with electronics grade contact cleaner with lubricant (plastic safe), spray a small amount at the switch sleeve junction and work the
button several times, repeat as needed.

OCCASIONALLY DUST/DIRT COLLECTS AT THE ACTUATOR'S SLEEVE, CAUSING IT TO STICK OR NOT FUNCTION

USE ELECTRONIC CLEANER

TO CLEAN & LUBRICATE THE
ACTUATOR

TIP: Only use electronics grade contact cleaner with lubricant (plastic safe) to lubricate any moving parts around electronics (i.e. your pedals, switches, etc.). It will clean and
lubricate the moving parts without harming your electronics and it does not collect dust and dirt.

HOW TO CLEAN THE POTENTIOMETERS

MINIMIZE PROGRAMING GLITCHES
While the cleaning procedure for open potentiometers is a straight forward procedure of spraying the correct cleaner into the potentiometer at the terminal opening and rotating
the shaft numerous times, then repeat as needed.
Cleaning the sealed potentiometers used in the Tonelab SE is a little trickier. With sealed potentiometers there is no open access area to spray the cleaner into the
potentiometer. Sealed potentiometers require a special tool that seals against the shaft of the potentiometer allowing the cleaner to enter the shaft saturating the
potentiometer’s internals. On Tonelab’s, we recommend you clean the sealed potentiometers from the top of the chassis before taking the unit apart, as it is often easier to
get a seal at the potentiometer’s shaft and places less stress on the fragile PCB.

The potentiometer cleaning cap tool we use can be found on line at a reasonable price (it will pay for itself quickly).

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192253548892?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2649

1. Disconnect the power supply from the pedal.

2. Doing one potentiometer at a time, remove the pot’s nut, leave all other pot nuts in place and secure to prevent unnecessary stress on the PCB. Attach the correct
potentiometer cleaning tool (SAE and Metric thread types are included with the recommended tool) to the potentiometer’s threaded housing with its O-ring seal at the
bottom and snug the tool. Occasionally there is not enough exposed threads to threads for the tool to go on with the O-ring under it (or the potentiometer’s threads
too small for the tool), when you encounter this thread the tool on without the O-ring or hold the tool firmly in place while cleaning (it will use a little more cleaner, but
still work effectively).

3. Using an *Electronics Grade Cleaner with a lubricant and safe for use on plastics, insert the spray straw into the small hole on top of the potentiometer cleaning tool
and spray the cleaner into the tool until it sprays back out the small hole on the tool, remove the straw and hold your finger over the hole for 20 seconds (this allows
the cleaner to build a little pressure to saturate into the potentiometer), repeat 2 times.

4. After the last spray application and a 20 second wait, remove the potentiometer cleaning tool and rotate the potentiometer’s shaft fully back and forth 20-30 times,
then re-install the cleaning tool and repeat the entire cleaning process (extremely dirty pots may require additional cleanings).

5. During the potentiometers cleaning process, the rotational force needed to turn the potentiometer’s shaft will usually become easier as the cleaner saturates into the
potentiometer, cleaning and lubricating it.

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 4 of 9
 6. Once the cleaning is complete, replace the potentiometer’s nut and snug it. Move to the next potentiometer to be cleaned and continue until all potentiometers are
cleaned.

7. Allow 5 minutes for any residual cleaner to evaporate, then test the unit for correct operation, any potentiometers still giving trouble will require additional cleaning.

Be patient, repeat the cleaning process as needed until the desired results are achieved. Usually the cleaning process clears up all issues, rarely does a potentiometer need
to be replaced.

IMPORTANT!
*IT IS IMPERATIVE YOU ONLY USE AN ELECTRONIC GRADE CLEANER WITH A LUBRICANT THAT IS SAFE ON PLASTICS!

HOW TO CLEAN THE JACKS

WASH AWAY THE SNAPS, CRACKLES & POPS
Usually the mechanical process of plugging in and out jacks wipes the contacts clean and keeps everything operating at its best. However, occasionally it is just not enough
and the jack needs a little assistance to rid itself of dirt and corrosion.

Keeping the jacks clean will minimize the annoying snaps, crackles and pops. There is a tool made for cleaning 1/4” jacks, the tool’s safe nylon brushes won’t scratch or
harm the jacks contact plating; https://www.ebay.com/itm/233894951139

You can also use 7mm Straw Cleaner Brushes Nylon Bristles, to help remove dirt/oxidation/corrosion from he jacks contact surfaces, be sure they are nylon brushes so they
won’t scratch or harm the jacks contact plating.

Never use wire bristle brushes, they will scratch/damage the jacks contact plating ruining the jacks.

How to do it;

1. Disconnect the power supply from the pedal.

2. Spray a little contact cleaner/lubricant into the jack and on the nylon brush bristles.

3. Insert the cleaning brush in and out of the jack a several times.

4. Repeat and let dry for 5 minutes.

5. Test, if noise is still present repeat cleaning process (extremely dirty jacks can require several cleaning).

In just a few minutes, you’ll be operating like new!

*If cleaning fails to correct noise at jacks, or your jack(s) require frequent cleaning to keep them quiet, it is an indication of the plating at the jack’s contacts has become worn
or damaged allowing excessive oxidation/corrosion to form, this usually requires new jacks.

ADJUSTING THE SENSITIVITY OF THE EXPRESSION PEDALS

If you notice that advancing the ToneLabSE’s expression pedal does not reach the full effect or volume even when the Min and Max parameters are set to the mini- mum and
maximum settings, or that returning the expression pedal does not reach the minimum effect or volume, you will need to perform the following adjustment so that
ToneLabSE’s expression pedal will be able to reach its full range of operation.

NOTE: When adjusting the sensitivity, you must use your hand to operate the pedal. Accurate adjustment may not be possible if you use your foot to operate it.
EXPRESSION PEDAL 1

1. Turn the power OFF.

2. While holding down the EXPRESSION button and the CHAIN button, turn the power on. The name display indicates EXP1 MIN.
3. Slowly return expression pedal 1 toward yourself (pedal back), and take your hand off the pedal when it stops.
4. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display indicates EXP1 MAX.
5. Slowly advance the expression pedal 1 away from yourself (pedal forward), and take your hand off the pedal when it stops. 

NOTE: If you decide to cancel the calibration procedure, press the EXIT button.
6. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display will indicate COMPLETE, then return to normal operation.
NOTE: If the sensitivity could not be adjusted correctly, the name display will indicate ERROR, and will then indicate EXP1 MIN. Repeat the procedure from step 3. 


EXPRESSION PEDAL 2

1. Turn the power OFF.

2. While holding down the CONTROL button and the CHAIN button, turn the power on. The name display indicates EXP2 MIN.
3. Slowly return expression pedal 2 toward yourself (pedal back), and take your hand off the pedal when it stops.
4. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display indicates EXP2 MAX.
5. Slowly advance the expression pedal 2 away from yourself (pedal forward), and take your hand off the pedal when it stops.
6. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display will indicate COMPLETE, then return to normal operation.
NOTE: If the sensitivity could not be adjusted correctly, the name display will indicate ERROR, and will then indicate EXP2 MIN. Repeat the procedure from step 3. 


WHEN THE PEDALS WON’T ADJUST

There are two expression pedal trim pots on the Tonelab SE pedal behind the right side (expression pedal side) aluminum side trim. After removing the side trim you’ll see two
small holes, these are the access holes to the trim pots inside. These trim pots rarely require any adjustments. However, when the expression pedal fails to respond to all other
adjustments, these trim pots usually solve the issues, they set the sensitivity of the photo/optical circuit. Adjust them slightly clockwise to increase sensitivity, counterclockwise to
decrease sensitivity (they should never be all the way on or all the way off).

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 5 of 9
PROGRAMING EXPRESSION PEDAL #2 TO BE A VOLUME PEDAL
This makes pedal #2 a volume pedal in all programs.
1. Hold down the EXPRESSION button until it blinks.
2. Press and release the RIGHT arrow button ( ) until the name display shows “VOLUME with E2 at the lower right of the screen”.
3. Press EXIT (program automatically saves itself).

PROGRAMING VOLUME PEDAL TO MAINTAIN ITS VOLUME POSITION IN ALL PROGRAMS

This makes the volume pedal work like a master volume (the volume pedal setting remains wherever it is set when switching programs).
1. Hold down the EXPRESSION button until it blinks.
2. Press and release the RIGHT arrow button ( ) until the name display shows “VOLUME with E2 at the lower right of the screen”.
3. Use the UP/DOWN ( ) arrows to change the setting to OFF.
4. Press EXIT (program automatically saves itself).

CALIBRATING VOLUME PEDAL #2 FOR THE NEW PEDAL STOP (adjusting the sensitivity)
NOTE: When adjusting the sensitivity, you must use your hand to operate the pedal. Accurate adjustment may not be possible if you use your foot
to operate it.

This calibrates the pedal to match the travel with the new pedal stop (full on/full off).

1. Turn the power OFF.

2. Push the pedal forward (toe/top of pedal down) and adjust the pedal stop all the way down (screw it all the way in), leave
the pedal forward.
3. Hold the CONTROL and CHAIN button down together and turn the power on. The name display will show “EXP2 MIN”.

4. Slowly return expression pedal toward yourself (heel/bottom of pedal down), and take your hand off the pedal when it
stops.
5. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display will now show “EXP MAX”.

6. Slowly advance the expression pedal away from yourself (toe/top of pedal down), and take your hand off the pedal when it
stops.
7. Press the GLOBAL button. The name display will momentarily show “COMPLETE”, then return to normal operation.
Once the above procedures are completed, you can set the pedal stop to your desired minimal volume. Pedal forward for a volume boost when
needed, pedal back for an exact return to the preset volume setting.

RESETTING THE TONELAB SE (restoring factory preset programs)

NOTE: While this procedure will often solve program glitches/problems, it will erase all the programs stored in your ToneLab SE, along with any
changes you’ve made and saved. It will re-load the factory-set programs and re-initialize MIDI settings.

If there are any settings you wish to keep, you MUST first use the data dump function to back your programs up to another Tonelab/computer or
use paper “Program Sheets” to record each of your programs data settings (see sample below).

1. Turn the power OFF.

2. While holding down the UP & DOWN arrow (▲, ▼), and EXIT buttons, turn on the power.

3. The bank display will show “P” and the LED 1–4 buttons will blink, and the name display will show “RELOAD?” Release the three
buttons.

4. Press the WRITE button. The name display will show “LOADING,” and the factory-set data will begin being reloaded. When completed,
the name display will indicate “COMPLETE,” and ToneLabSE will switch back to the Program Select Mode.

WARNING! Never turn off the power while this reload operation is occurring. 


© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 6 of 9
 TONELAB SE PROGRAM SHEET (use a sheet for each program)
PROGRAM NAME ________________________
BANK# ______ FT SW# ________
USE THE LEDs & ORIGINAL VAUE DISPLAY TO MARK KNOB SETTINGS FOR EACH SELECTION

A AUTO WAH
U-VIBE
BLK/ORG PHASE AC30TB
UK BLUES
UK 68P
BLACK
VOX
AC15 VOX DUO
TEXTREM
ROTARY
STEREO
SWEEP DELAY CROSS
CHAMBER 2

2X12 AC30 PHASE CHAMBER 1 ROOM 1

DELAY DELAY
VOX WAH OCTAVE AC30 UK 80S BLACK VOX BI PITCH
RING MOD 2 TAP PLATE 2 ROOM 2
ACCUSTIC AC15TB UK 90S 2X10 AD4X12 CHORUS SHIFT
MOD DELAY DELAY
AC15 TWEED UK H30 CLASSIC MOD ANALOG RHYTHM
COMP TREBLE UK PLATE 1 HALL 1
BOOST TWEED MODERN 4X10 4X12 FLANGER DELAY DELAY DELAY
OCTAFUZZ TUBE OD 4X12 RECTO
TWEED TWEED UK T75 STEREO FILTRON MULTI HOLD SPRING 2 HALL 2
FUZZ SUPER OD 1X12 US HIGAIN 1X12 4X12 CHORUS HEAD DELAY
ORANGE DIST BOUTIQUE BLACK 2X12 BOUTIQUE OD TWEED US V30 CLASSIC TALK MOD ECHO REVERSE
SPRING 1 GATE
FAT DIST BOUTIQUE CL 1X8 4X12 CHORUS PLUS DELAY

INSERT PEDAL AMP PRE-NR CABINET MODULATION DELAY REVERB

B AC30TB
UK BLUES
UK 68P
BLACK
VOX
AC15 VOX
2X12 AC30
AC30 UK 80S BLACK VOX
AC15TB UK 90S 2X10 AD4X12

AC15 TWEED UK H30

UK
TWEED MODERN 4X10 4X12
4X12 RECTO
TWEED TWEED UK T75
1X12 US HIGAIN 1X12 4X12
BLACK 2X12 BOUTIQUE OD TWEED US V30
BOUTIQUE CL 1X8 4X12

AMP PRE-NR CABINET

NOTE: IN CHANNEL "B" ONLY THE AMP MODELS, SPEAKER

A SELECTIONS , GAIN AND EQ SETTINGS CAN BE CHANGED.
ALL OTHER SETTINGS WILL REMAIN THE SAME.
PEDAL DRIVE LEVEL TONE MANUAL TYPE ORDER

A B
AMP GAIN VR GAIN TREBLE MIDDLE BASS CH VOLUME AMP GAIN VR GAIN TREBLE MIDDLE BASS CH VOLUME

A Knobs not used in

this section are
not shown
PRES-NR PRESENCE NR

A
MODULATION SPEED DEPTH RESONANCE MANUAL OPTION MIX

A
DELAY TIME FEEDBACK TONE DUCKING OPTION MIX

A
REVERB TIME LO DAMP HI DAMP PRE DELAY SHAPE MIX

A
EXPRESSION TARGET 1 MIN 1 MAX 1 TARGET 2 MIN 2 MAX 2

Knobs not used in this section are not shown

A
CONTROL SW = ______________
CONTROL TARGET FACTOR

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 7 of 9
 ELECTRONIC SOLDERING TIPS (learn to solder like a Pro)

1. ALWAYS PRACTICE SAFETY! Prepare a clean-clear work space and use the appropriate PPE (personal protection equipment)!
2. Use a 20 to 30 watt electronics grade solder iron (adjustable temperature iron is preferred, but not a necessity) with a small pencil tip, plug it in and wait for it to
heat up completely. Rest the iron in an iron holder at all times, do not set it on, lay it down or rest it against anything! Make this a habit, otherwise sooner or later you
will burn or destroy something you did not want too (including yourself)!

3. Just before soldering, clean the tip of your iron by wiping it on a sponge that has been slightly dampened in water. Wipe the iron’s hot tip over the sponge quickly,
the dampened sponge will clean the tip nicely. Once cleaned, tin the tip immediately by applying a little fresh solder on it. Make this a habit and do this procedure prior
to every solder connection, it will ensure a good clean solder joint

4. Electronic grade rosin flux and rosin flux core solders (.031 - .032 diameter recommended) are the only type to be used when working on electronics/electrical
repairs. DO NOT USE ACID OR ANY OTHER CORROSIVE FLUX TYPES! Use of an acid or corrosive flux of any kind even once and you will have an expensive
repair later! It may look good at first, but corrosive fluxes will eat at everything, destroying as it goes! Trust me on this, and only use an electronic grade rosin flux and
rosin flux core solders! No substitutes! NONE!

5. Solder will not stick to dirty/oily parts, get it clean! Use a little brush (an old tooth brush works great) and scrub the parts with a little rubbing alcohol (do not use
Denatured or Methanol as these types of alcohol can damage plastics and finishes), allow the alcohol time to dry before you solder. If there is a protective film or
corrosion on the parts, solder will not stick to it, the film/corrosion needs to be removed from the area to be soldered, a red or grey scotch-bright pad works great for
this, but never use steel wool, steel wool will get into your controls and short them out. Sometimes you may have to scrape the surface lightly with a knife edge to
remove film or corrosion, then clean as described above. An electronics grade flux pen is also handy to have on hand, a swipe of the pen will aid in the success of a
difficult solder connection.

6. Clamp or secure the parts to be soldered to minimize movement while the solder cools. For wires when soldering two together, bend a loop in each wire, loop the
wires together and gently mash the loops. The loops will hold the wires together while you solder, you can also use this technique to fasten wires to control terminals.
Another method is to use an aluminum or stainless alligator clip to hold things together, be aware the clip will act as a heat sink and require more time to complete the
solder connection.
7. Too much heat will cause the solder to oxidize, not enough heat and it will not flow onto the joining metals. Oxidation (too much heat) makes the solder look dull
and sometimes appears pitted, you need to remove any oxidized solder and replace it with fresh. Control the heat, do not allow the heat to burn the parts or oxidize
the solder, use just enough heat to flow the solder and you'll be fine. If the solder oxidizes before it flows out or it will not stick, you probably have contamination on the
parts (dirt/oils), remove the solder (solder sucker or braid), clean the area and apply a light coat of rosin flux (a flux pen works great for this), re-solder the joint.
8. Heat the larger surfaces letting the heat flow to the smaller surfaces. Apply heat, apply a little solder, wait for it to flow out (the edges of the solder will appear to
flow into the metal tightly), remove the heat your done. Remember more heat will not make a better joint, if you use good soldering technique the joint will look smooth
and shinny. If the solder joint looks dull and gobbed up, the area was not clean and/or improper heat was applied, remove the solder, clean, add a little flux and re-
solder the joint.
9. Use only enough solder to coat the parts you're trying to attach together. If you're having trouble with the solder sticking to the parts, STOP more solder will not fix
it. Clean the parts, apply a small amount of rosin flux, tin each piece with a little solder, clamp them together, then apply the heat while watching the solder, when the
solder on both pieces flows together smoothly it is done.
10. Remove any excess solder to prevent shorts, etc. Use solder wick (a copper braid designed to soak up the solder) or get yourself a tool called a solder sucker
(any electronics store will sell you one). If you’re using braid, heat the area until the solder starts to flow, then use the braid by rolling the braid into the solder with your
iron on the braid, the braid will wick the excess solder into itself. If you’re using a sucker to remove the excess solder, heat the area until the solder starts to flow, then
hold the suction end of the solder sucker against the wet solder and releasing the plunger (spring loaded) so it sucks the solder up into the tool much like a vacuum
cleaner (this is my preferred method).

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 8 of 9
WITH PCB TIPS (preventing and repairing damage)

PCBs are fragile, bending/flexing, over heating and desoldering/soldering can damage them, let's learn how to avoid it.
1. When pulling out PCBs, make sure they are completely loose from all securing points. If any resistance is felt, look for the binding point (missed screw, push clip,
etc). Do not force the PCB, forcing will usually result in damaging circuits on the board, sometimes even rendering the board useless.
2. When removing components from PCBs, the solder at the component’s terminal through hole must be removed completely. This requires a high quality solder
sucker (solder braid will not work for this). Beware of cheap look alike solder suckers, most lack the suction required to evacuate all of the solder from PCBs, which
can result in frustration and often a damaged PCB. A little extra cost up front can save a lot frustration and cost later. We recommend the EDSYN “The Original
Deluxe SOLDAPULLT” for PCB work.

3. Control the heat on PCBs, too much heat can loosen / damage traces and component pads from the board (fine copper circuit lines and component connection
points). Set your iron’s temperature at just enough to melt the solder on the board, keep your tip clean and tinned so it transfers heat to the terminal pad quickly.
4. How to use a solder sucker on PCBs, heat the component terminal area until the solder becomes shinny and fluid like, leaving your iron in place at the component
terminal, place the solder sucker over both the iron and component hole, then release the solder sucker’s trigger while holding it firmly in place (the solder sucker’s
tip is rated for the temperature). Remove the solder sucker and iron, while holding the solder sucker to the side away from any PCBs and/or components, reset
(cock) the solder sucker (this will release spent solder from the tip, so be sure it’s not over anything). Inspect the component terminal through hole and make sure all
of the solder has been removed, if solder still remains around the component’s terminal in the through hole, repeat solder sucker procedure until the solder is
completely removed and the components terminal lead moves freely in the hole.

TIP; occasionally it is very difficult to remove the solder completely from a double sided board, when this happens add a little solder back into the terminal and
remove it again (the additional solder allows the heat to transfer to the underside of the board allowing complete evacuation). If your still having trouble, check and
clean your solder sucker. When cleaned and lubricated correctly your solder sucker should be able to hold suction with your finger over the tip when it’s released, if
it does not hold suction it needs maintenance or replacement.
5. Repairing damaged trace / terminal pads, we really want to avoid having to do this, but it does happen. And when it happens you’ll need to know how to fix it.
Examine the board at the damage area, is the trace / pad slightly damaged (but still connected) or is it completely disconnected (broken/severed path)?
A. Slightly damaged trace or pad can usually be scraped back at the damage area (coating off the trace) and soldered, bridging over the slightly damaged area. A
loose trace or pad can be CA glued (cyanoacrylate) back in place, just be careful when you solder, too much heat will loosen CA glue.
B. A completely disconnected trace / pad requires a new circuit path around the damaged area. Usually a hard wire approach is used for this, meaning an
insulated wire close to the diameter of the damaged trace is used to replicate the damaged circuit path (usually 24 - 28 gauge wire). This is done between the
solder points on the board at the damaged area, meaning from the component’s solder connection at the damaged area to the next closest component’s solder
connection following the damage trace line. Secure the wire along its path to the board with a drop of hot glue or silicone. Occasionally, on double sided boards
this may need to be done on both sides of the board. Use an ohm meter and check the signal path to be sure it is repaired.
6. PCB connection plugs are easily damaged when removing and re-connecting where their terminals solder to the board, check these connections each time you
work on the board, if loose often all that is needed is a little solder. However if the trace is damaged, it will need repair as outlined above.
7. Remember, too much heat is your enemy, too much heat can damage components and boards. Clean and tin your soldering iron tip for each use, set your iron to
the appropriate heat and apply heat at the terminal connection, apply a small amount of solder, wait for the solder to flow, add additional solder if needed and
remove the heat. Inspect the solder joint for a clean tight shinny joint. Double sided boards by their nature usually require a little longer heating and a little more
solder to flow to the underside, just don’t over do the heat or solder.

© Bob Webb (aka RetroBob) with all rights reserved 2021 USE AT YOUR OWN RISK TLSE TIPS Page 9 of 9