Meri
Meri
Meri
presents
Mary,
the Little Fashionista
If you use the materials as advised above the final size of the toy is going to be 24-25 cm
(approximately 9,5") from top of the head to toes.
Abbreviations
R- row sl st – slip stitch;
MR - Magic ring; dec- decreasing (2 sc/dc together);
St/Sts – stitch/stitches inc - increasing (2 sc/dc in 1 st);
ch – chain stitch; sc3tog- decreasing (3 sc together);
sc – single crochet; dc2tog- decreasing (2 dc together);
dc - double crochet; bpsc- back post single crochet.
Arms (2 piece)
Use a 2 mm crochet hook and skin colored yarn.
Start at the underside of the arm.
R 1: 6 sc in MR (6)
R 2: (2 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (8)
R 3: (3 sc, 1 inc) 2 times (10)
R 4: 4 sc, 1 inc, 5 sc (11)
R 5: 11 sc (11)
R 6: 5 sc, 3dcps, 5 sc (11)
R 7: 4 sc, sc3tog, 4 sc (9)
R 8-9: 9 sc (9)
Stuff the ready part of the arm tightly.
R 10-21: 1 sc in each stitch around (9)
Cut and fix the yarn.
Crochet the arms up to the 21st row included.
Work in joined rounds from the 5th row up to the 9th. Finish off the rows with the invisible st
st. Rows ending with invisible sl st. Make 1 starting ch from the wrong side, then turn the
detail to face you and begin crocheting the next row.
Ch 1 (at the beginning of the row) and the invisible sl st to join both do not count as a stitch.
Crochet the first sc of each round into the stitch that you made the invisible sl st into.
Insert the insoles into the sole of the boots paying attention so that
the sole is tight around the insole. Put the insoles aside and continue
crocheting.
Cut off the coral colored yarn leaving a tail to make a knot.
Attach the green yarn as in the following way – leave a tail to be able to tie a knot and make
1 ch from the wrong side. Then turn the detail to face you and begin crocheting the 6th row.
Leave alone the tails of the yarns at this point and do not weave them into the detail.
Crochet the stitches of the 6th and 7th rows into the back loop of the stitch only.
R 6: 1 ch, sl st in each stitch around, invisible sl st into the 1st stitch of the round to join (36)
(consult the photos bellow)
R 7: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, (7 sc, 1 dec) 2 times, (6 sc, 1 dec) 2 times, 1 sc, invisible
sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (32)
Pull the tails of the coral and green yarns that were left after changing the yarns tightly, tie a
knot and hide the ends in the stitches of the heel.
Pay attention – the decreasing in the 8th row is going to be made with using different
stitches.
R 8: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 7 sc, 2 sc2tog, 5 dc2tog, 2 sc2tog, 6 sc, invisible sl st to
the 1st sc of the round to join (23)
Insert the insoles into the boots.
R 9: 1 ch, 7 sc, 5 dec, 6 sc, invisible sl st to the 1st sc of the round to join (18)
Cut off the green thread and attach the skin colored yarn. Do the change of the yarns in the
same way that you did the change from the coral to the green. Leave same tails as before.
Pay attention – the decreasing in the 10th row is going to be made using different stitches.
10th row is crocheted into the back loop of the stitch.
R 10: 1 ch, 2 sc, 1 sc2tog, 2 sc, 3 dc2tog, 2 sc, 1sc2tog, 2 sc (13)
Then go on crocheting spiralwise. At the end of the 10th row do not make the attaching stitch.
1st sc of the 11th row is crocheted into the 1st sc of the 10th row.
R 12-17: 11 sc (11).
R 18: 1 sc, 1 inc, 9 sc (12)
Cut off the skin thread and attach the blue yarn.
Now we are going to crochet the row that is not going
to counted in the following way:
Insert the hook under both loops of the stitches of the
18th row and crochet the attaching stitches. Crochet 12
sl st. Try to crochet sl st loosely, not pulling the
stitches too tightly.
In the 19th row you are to insert the hook into the
stitches of the 18th row behind the formed blue chain.
Stuff the detail in the process of crocheting.
Pay attention so that the marker remain in the center of
the back of the leg. If needed crochet the floating loops if
needed.
R 19-31: 12 sс (12)
Flatten the leg and mark the left and right end stitches of the isede and the otd=side leg
parts as in the photo below.
R 32: Crochet the row with sc, in the stitches with the place markers
make one increase each (14)
R 33: 14 sc (14)
R 34: 9 sc (Stop crocheting the present row in the middle of the inner side of the leg. I stopped
and did not finish 5 sc. You can stop earlier or later depending on the thickness of the yarn or
tightness of your crocheting).
R 35: 14 sc, on the left leg detail, then 3 sc on chain, 9 sc, (1 inc, 1 sc) 2 times, 1 inc on the
right leg, 1 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc on the other side of the on chain. Place the marker. Further on you
can stop both controlling the place of the marker and crochet floating stitches.
Add the blue yarn in the next row and crochet alternating 2 sc with green yarn and 2 sc
blue yarn.
If you are not familiar with how to crochet changing yarns, watch the following video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f8vtkK-_3Do
R 51: Begin the row with 2 sc in green color 1 sc in each stitch around. The row should be
finished off with one sc in blue yarn (27)
Do not cut off the blue yarn. Crochet the next two rows using the green yarn.
R 52-53: 1 sc in each stitch around (27)
Crochet the 54th row alternating 2 sc in blue yarn and 2 sc in green yarn, beginning with
blue yarn.
R 54: 1 sc in each stitch around (27)
th th
Crochet the 55 and 56 rows using the green yarn only.
R 55: (7 sc, 1 dec) 3 times (24)
R 56: 1 sc in each stitch around (24)
th
Crochet the 57 row alternating 2 sc in green yarn and 2 sc in blue yarn, beginning with
green yarn. Cut and fasten off the blue yarn at the end of the row.
R 57: 6 sc, 2 dec, 8 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc (20)
h th
Crochet the 58 and 59 rows using the green yarn only.
R 58: 6 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc (18)
R 59: (1 sc, 1 dec) 6 times (12)
Cut off the green thread and attach the skin colored yarn.
R 60: 12 sc into the back loop of the stitch (12)
R 61-63: 1 sc in each stitch around (12)
Put aside the main detail. Let’s crochet the collar of the blouse.
Turn the doll with its back facing you and turn upside down. Attach the blue colored yarn to the
front loops of the center stitches of the 59th row. Insert the hook downwards (from the side of
the legs in the direction of the neck). Crochet into the front loop of each of the crochets of the
row (1 sc, 4 ch). Finish the row with sl st to join, cut and fix the yarn.
The wig
Use a 2,5 mm crochet hook and mustard colored yarn.
The cap for the wig is worked in joined rounds. In all the joined rounds (2nd through 4th) the
chain at the beginning of the row is counted as st.
From the 2nd row up to the 5 th row work all sts into back loop only.
R 1: 6 sc in MR, sl st in 1st sc of the round to join (6)
R 2: 1 ch, 1 sc into the base of the ch, 5 inc, sl st in ch of the round to join (12)
From the 3 rd to the 4 th row make the increase of double crochet.
R 3: 2 ch, 1 dc into the base of the ch, 11 inc, sl st to the 2nd ch of the round to join (24)
R 4: 2 ch, 1 inc in next st, (1 dc, 1 inc) 11 times, (place marker in last dc of this round), sl st to
the 2nd ch of the round to join (36)
Continue working in the rows. From the 5th row up to the 8 th row 2 ch at the beginning of the
row does not count as a stitch.
R 5: 2 ch, 1 dc in next st, 1 inc, (2 dc, 1 inc) 6 times, 1 dc, 1 dec, turn work (29)
Work all sts of the 6th row into front loop only.
R 6: 2 ch, 29 dc, turn work (29)
Work all sts of the 7th row into back loop only.
R 7: 2 ch, 29 dc, turn work (29)
Work all sts of the 8th row into front loop only.
R 8: 2 ch, 29 dc, turn work (29)
We are going to crochet strands of hair further on.
Note: Use a 2 mm crochet hook. Work the sl st of the hair strands both through back loop
and back bump or bottom loop.
R 9: (10 ch, 8 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sc, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 8 th row) repeat 14
times, 10 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in 2 nd ch of 8 th row.
You are to receive 15 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
Further on we will be crocheting the upper strands on the remaining front loops from the 7th up
to the 1st row. The hook is to be inserted into the stitches from the bottom upwords – from the
bottom of the wig in the direction of the top of the head.
Attach the same yarn to the 2nd starting ch of the 7th row – see photos below.
R 1: (11 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sc, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 7 th row) repeat 14
times, 11 ch, 10 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st into the front loop of the 7 th row last dc.
You are to receive 15 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
We continue to crochet the strands into the front loops of the 6th row.
Attach the thread to the 6th row as we did in the preceding rows.
R 2: (12 ch, 10 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sс, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 6th row) repeat 14
times, 12 ch, 11 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st into the front loop of the 6 th row last
dc.
You are to receive 15 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
We continue to crochet the strands into the front loops of the 5th row.
Attach the thread to the 5th row as we did in the preceding rows.
R 3: (13 ch, 11 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sс, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 5th row) repeat 14
times, 13 ch, 12 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 skip, 1 sl st into the front loop of the 5 th row last
dc.
You are to receive 15 strands.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
Note: Further on continue crocheting the strands in the joined rounds into the front loops of the
stitches. In each next row (1st through 4th) the last sl st are made into the base of the chain of
the first strand of the row.
Attach the same yarn to the stitch of the 4th row that is marked by the marker.
R 4: (10 ch, 8 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sc, 1 skip, 1 sl st in next st of 4th row) repeat 6
times, 10 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 4th row, (13 ch, 12 sl st in 2 nd st
from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 4th row) repeat to the end of the row.
You are to receive 7 short strands (the bang) и 23 long ones.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
Continue crocheting into the front loops of the 3rd row. Attach the yarn in the center of the
back of the wig.
R 5: (13 ch, 12 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 3rd row) repeat to the end of the
row.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
You are to receive 24 strands.
Continue crocheting into the front loops of the 2nd row. Attach the yarn in the center of the
back of the wig.
R 6: (12 ch, 11 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2nd row) repeat to the end of the
row.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
You are to receive 12 strands.
Continue crocheting into the front loops of the 1st row. Attach the yarn to any stitch of the 1st
row.
R 7: (10 ch, 9 sl st in 2 nd st from the hook, 1 sl st in next st of 2nd row) repeat to the end of the
row.
Fix and cut off the yarn.
You are to receive 6 strands.
Count down 15 rows from the top of the head and mark the place for the eyes with pins. The
distance between the eyes should be 3 sc. Glue or sew on the eyes.
Mark the place for the nose two rows down from the eyes.
Start embroidering the nose. Place the stitches over two single crochet until the nose is
protruding a bit. Do not make the stitches too tight - the stitches should be quite accurate and
the tightness of the stitches should be the same for all of them. Only in such a case, the nose is
going to be even. After finishing the nose have the needle exit at the top of the head, fix the
thread well and hide its ends inside the head.
Fix the wig to the head with the help of the sewing pins and then sew it on with small sewing
stitches following the edges of the wig (as shown in the photos below).
The 2 ch at the beginning of each row and sl st to join do not count as the first double crochet
now and throughout.
To help you achieve a straight almost invisible seam watch this video
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kdkb5ejkU1c&t=279s
R 6: 2 ch, crochet 1st dc into the base of the 2 ch, then dc in each stitch of a row, sl st to the 1st
dc of the row to join (64)
R 7: 2 ch, skip st into the base of the 2 ch, dc in each stitch of a row, last dc into the base of the
2 ch, sl st to the 1st dc of the row to join. (64)
R 8: 2 ch, crochet 1st dc into the base of the 2 ch, then dc in each stitch of a row, sl st to the 1st
dc of the row to join (64)
R 9: 2 ch, skip st into the base of the 2 ch, dc in each stitch of a row, last dc into the base of the
2 ch, sl st to the 1st dc of the row (64)
In the 10 th row all the crochets should be done into the front loop of the stitch.
R 10: 1 ch, (1 sc, 3 ch) in each st around till the last sc. After the last sc make two ch. Finish off
the row with sl st to the 1st ch of the row to join.
Cut off and fix the yarn.
Attach the cream yarn in the center of the back to the back loops of the crochets of the 9th
row.
R 11-12: 1 ch, 64 sc into the back loops, sl st to the 1st ch of the round to join (64)
R 13: 1 ch, (1sc, 4 ch) in each st around till the last. After the last sc make 3 ch.
Finish off the row with sl st to the 1st ch of the row to join.
Cut off and fix the yarn.
Attach the coral yarn at the upper left belt end. Start crocheting along the upper end of the belt
with single crochets. Upon reaching the end of the row make 3 ch (we are
making a button hole) and attach it into the last crochet on the belt (see photo).
Cut off and fasten off.
Make some decorative seams on the belt with the help back stitch taking one sc (see photo).
Hair Band
Begin crocheting a chain of desired length (I did 51 chains) and then make a row of single
crochet on one long side alongside the chain. Crochet 3 single crochet into the last stitch and
continue crocheting single crochet into the chain from the other side.
Cut the thread leaving a long tail for sewing. Join the ends of the detail to make it into the hair
band.
Flower (make 1)
Begin with the green colored yarn. Use 2,5 mm hook.
R 1: In MR: Begin the row with 3ch (counts as 1st dc), 9 dc, sl st in 3rd ch of the round to join.
Cut off and fix the green yarn.
Now you can praise yourself and give yourself a little pat on the back for a job
well done)))
Now you have a soft and cozy friend Mary,
the Little Fashionista!
ENJOY!