APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT

CONDUCTED AT

MARYAN APPARELS PVT.LTD, KANNUR

UNDER THE GUIDANCE OF

Ms.SUDHA BINDRA

PRESENTED BY

ROJA JAYARAM
(BFT/17/284)

DEPARTMENT OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, BENGALURU

NOV-DEC 2020

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 ACKNOWLEDGEMENT

This internship has been completed with the combined help, effort, and guidance of so many
people. I take this opportunity to express my sincere gratitude to everyone who has taken the
time to help and guide me.
First of all, I would like to express my sincere gratitude and appreciation to Maryan Apparels,
for accepting me as their intern. I would also like to thank my mentor, Ms.Sudha Bindra for
leading me through the right path. I also thank everyone else in the industry and college who
was kind enough to lend a helping hand.

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CERTIFICATE

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 ABSTRACT

This report is based on the six-week apparel internship carried out in Maryan Apparel
Pvt.Ltd, Kannur, Kerala, during the period of November to December 2020. This report
examines the type of apparel manufacturing system that is being used in the company. It
explores the different departments within the industry and how they contribute towards the
completion of the production process.

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 TABLE OF CONTENTS
Sl.No. Title Page no.

1 Introduction 5

2 Company Profile 6

Company location 6

Infrastructure 6

Vision of the company 6

Mission of the company 6

Organization hierarchy 7

3 Department study 8

1. Merchandising 8
department

2. Sampling department 10

3. CAD department 11

4. Fabric sourcing 12
department

5. Purchasing 15
department

6. IE department 18

7. Finance / Accounts 20
department

8. Production 23
department

9. Quality control 28
department

10. Human Resource 29

management

11. Maintenance 31
department

4 Project 33

5 References 43

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 INTRODUCTION

The apparel industry occupies an important role in the economic life of India. The domestic
textiles and apparel industry contributes 2% to India's GDP, 7% of industry output in value
terms, and 12% of the country's export earnings. The sector is one of the largest job creators
in the country, employing about 45 million people directly. The apparel industry caters to one
of the most basic requirements of the people and holds importance by maintaining prolonged
growth for improved quality of life.

This apparel internship was carried out as a part of the NIFT curriculum, in Maryan Apparels
Pvt Ltd, with the objective of understanding the overall working of the apparel industry.
Maryan apparel Pvt Ltd is a garment manufacturing and exporting company which is
registered under the Companies act 1956 in the year 2005. It started its operation on 18th
June 2006 at Kerala State Industrial Development Corporation (KSIDC) industrial growth
center at Valiyavelicham, Kuthuparamba. The apparel internship involved both WFH sessions
and industry visits.

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 COMPANY PROFILE

Maryan Apparels Pvt.Ltd is a garment manufacturing and exporting company which is

registered under the Companies Act 1956 in the year of 2005. It started its operation on 18th
June 2006 at Kerala State Industrial Development Corporation (KSIDC) industrial growth
center at Valiyavelicham, Kuthuparamba. It is a non-governmental organization which
operates as a subsidiary of Bombay Rayon Fashion Ltd. Their product range includes boxer
shorts, uniforms, t-shirts, etc.

Company Location

KSIDC Industrial growth center is set up by the Government of Kerala. It is one of the few
apparel parks providing excellent infrastructure facilities for garment manufacturing. The
center has well laid out roads and a common effluent treatment plant. It is situated 45 minutes
away from Kannur railway station and 2 hours from Calicut International airport.

Infrastructure Facilities

The factory is built on an independent plot of approx 1,20,000 square feet. The total build-up
area is approx. 55,000 square feet spread across two floors. It is having provision for another
two floors of the same size. Each floor is having an area of around 27,000 sq. feet and the
company has been planned on the ease of movement of goods.

Vision of the company

● Committed to being a leader in the apparel industry

● Committed to listening and responding to the needs of the customers, associating to
their industrial value.
● Committed to the entrepreneurial spirit that follows the growth of the company
● Embrace diversity and cultivate through principled leadership.

Mission of the company

● To create and maintain the brand loyalty of its customers.

● To promote and deliver quality products.
● To serve the national economy and attain self reliance.

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CURRENT ORGANIZATIONAL STRUCTURE OF THE COMPANY :

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 DEPARTMENT STUDY

1. MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT

A merchandiser is an interface between the buyer and the supplier who has to ensure the
quality of production and timely delivery. Merchandising is a process through which products
are planned, developed, executed, and presented to the buyers. It includes directing and
overseeing the development of the product line from start to finish. The role of this
department includes,

❖ To look for the appropriate market

❖ To get the samples made according to the buyer’s specification
❖ To estimate and quote the cost of the garment to the buyer and negotiate with them
❖ Getting orders
❖ Constant interaction with the buyer for the approval
❖ To get the fabric and trims in-house for bulk production Coordinating with the PPC
and production
In Maryan apparels, there are two managers who make the correct view of the market
according to the trends and they maintain good customer relations. As a result, the firm is
able to achieve the required sales turnover. Here the buyer will provide the design to the
merchandising department along with the measurements. The sample which needs to be sent
to the buyer first goes to the board of directors for approval. After getting the approval it's
given to the production department to produce a variety of samples and send it to the buyer. If
the buyer is satisfied with the sample they provide the raw materials to the company. To
complete the above procedure, the merchandising department plays a crucial role. It is their
duty to check the raw materials that are sent by the buyer and the finished samples of goods.
It's also their duty to give orders for the accessories as per the order given by the buyer. After
the final production, the merchandising department should call the buyer for final inspection
and confirm shipment.
After shipment dispatching, the merchandiser is also responsible for buyer claims, profit, and
subsequent orders. If the buyer has any problem with the quality of the product then it is the
responsibility of the merchandiser to resolve the problem with the buyer.

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Activities of merchandising department

1) Order confirmation and follow up: This process involves receiving the initial order
details from the buyer’s representative and communicating through E-mail and telephonic
conversations. The merchandising team keeps the buyer updated about all the developments
taking place regarding the order. The order booking and the order confirmation details are
received by the merchandising team who further transfers this information to the other
departments.
2) Preparation of bill of materials: The merchandising team receives the details of all the
style features in a particular order. This also includes the following:
● Fabric quality details
● Thread Details
● Finish Details
● Accessories like beads, sequins, laces, etc.
● Prints and Embroidery
● Trim like buttons, zippers
● Wash care labels
● Size labels
● Brand labels
● Packing Material details
● Hang Tags

Besides receiving this information from the buyer, the merchandisers also receive the Fabric
consumption per garment for each size from the sampling section, Thread consumption per
garment from the Planning Department, and the accessories requirement per garment from
the sampling department. Based on this information received, the merchandiser prepares a
Bill of Materials (BOM). This has the complete details of the requirement of all the parts
going into the making of the garment. Each of the materials is stated above is mentioned per
garment.

3) Co-ordinating the sample development process: The merchandising department plans

and coordinates the activities of the sampling department. The sampling section is given the
TECHPAK which contains all the relevant details. The samples to be made are planned in
the merchandising department and the plan is given to the sampling section. The samples are
sent to the merchandising department for initial approvals according to the spec sheet
provided by the buyer. The samples are sent to the buyer for approval only when they are
approved by the merchandising department. The sampling department is also informed by
the merchandising about the types of samples required by the buyer. The merchandiser
receives the buyer comments for all the samples and makes sure it is informed of the
sampling and the necessary changes made in all the required areas.

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4) Interpreting the tech pack provided by the buyer: The technical Folder/tech pack is the
reference for each department whenever it comes to any information about the buyer’s
requirements. The buyer states all his requirements in a very precise manner which is
contained in this document.

2. SAMPLING DEPARTMENT

The sampling department is one of the most important departments and it plays a vital role in
the uplifting of a unit. The sampling department directly coordinates with the merchandising
and production department. Sampling is done to see how the product will look like when
produced in bulk and to check whether there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made
according to the buyer’s specification. Merchandiser procures orders from the buyer. The
buyer sends spec sheets, sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type, etc to the
merchandiser. Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding cost,
average, proto, fit, correction, size set, and approval into a style package and hands it over to
the Sampling department head.
Buyers give either a specification sheet which is called Tech pack or only sketches and
mention the age group of the users and define the styles. If the buyer demands the samples on
substitute fabric then it is sent to the buyer on substitute fabric along with costing. The
costing part was done by merchandisers. On the basis of costing merchandisers negotiate with
buyers. A Proto sample is sent for confirmation of the style and looks of the garment. Once
the proto sample is approved by the buyer then the fabric, color, trims, etc. are also decided.
Salesman sample is made so as to cover all the color and size options of the style but the
fabric color may not be exactly matching with the required color. The sample need not be of
the exact fit. While fabric and trim ordering is happening, simultaneously the sample
approval procedure is also underway. The moment a style is selected it goes to the tech
department for fitting. Here models wear the samples and they are evaluated in terms of fit,
construction, measurement. The buyer then sends out comments, which are called fit
comments. In case another sample is requested the factory makes the same incorporating the
comments and sends again to the buyer. This process is called the fit cycle. Different
customers have different fit cycles. Once the fit sample is approved the factory makes a PP
(Pre-production) sample. This can be called by different names such as sealer sample, green
tag sample, etc. This sample is sent out to the buyer for final approval and once approved
becomes the final sample on the basis of which the entire production is made and audited.
This is the most important sample and one should take care that everything on this sample is
correct as this then becomes the standard. Once the PP sample is approved the next step is to
make a size set. All the fit samples and the PP samples are in the medium size, now the
medium size is these are then graded into the different sizes as per the purchase order. But
this all activity of size-set is done in the pre-production execution department after the pp
approval. Size Set sample is made in all sizes. It is done to check the fit of all the sizes.
Fabric and trims need not be as required for actual production.

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 3. CAD DEPARTMENT

The major functions of the CAD department include,

● Determining cutting average for costing

● Making the most efficient cutting marker
● Development and alteration of patterns
● Grading of patterns and development of size set
● Digitizing the pattern

The merchandiser sends the approved style sheet, spec sheet containing all the measurements,
graded measurements spec sheet, and fabric detail sheet to the CAD room. The process
happens in the order of Digitizing, Grading, order and processing the marker, plotting and
then marker making.
Digitizing is the process of implementing the pattern of a particular style which is fed into the
computer system by using a digitizer and specially designed cursor for computerized marker
making. The paper patterns are placed on a digitizer with the help of magic tape. Care must
be taken while placing the pattern on the digitizer board. The pattern should be free from any
folds and the grainline of the patterns should be parallel to the x-axis. Pattern information
such as an order name, pattern description, and grain lines are fed into the system through
software. In the company, Vinda software is used. Every corner of the pattern is traced by the
cursor so as to get the exact shape of the pattern. Once all the information is correctly fed into
the system, then only the computer software accepts the particular pattern and saves it on the
system. These digitizer patterns are thus ready for grading.

Grading means the stepwise increase or decrease of a master pattern piece to create a larger
or smaller size. The starting point can be the smallest size or middle size. Grading alters the
overall size of a design but not its general shape and appearance.
The marker is printed with the help of a NatWest Plotter and spread on the top of the lay. This
helps in the recognition of garment parts after cutting.

Marker is the best possible arrangement of all pattern pieces in the available width of the
fabric so as to utilize maximum fabric and reduce wastage. After all the required information
is fed into the system by digitizing, the patterns are ready for marker making. Individual
pieces can be moved around the screen using a mouse, to produce an optimized layout.
Before making the final marker, a combination of pattern arrangements, in a given width are
made so as to achieve maximum efficiency.

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PROCESS FLOW

4. FABRIC SOURCING DEPARTMENT

Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where it's
merchandise, i.e., fabric will be obtained. It works in coordination with the merchandising
department and looks after the delivery of the required goods within the scheduled time and
cost.
The raw materials used in the company differs according to the style of the garment
produced. Maryan Apparels purchase their fabrics from different Mills in India and also
imports from China. They also receive raw materials from BRFL.
The functioning of the department is as follows,

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 ● Storage: Location system of storage is followed, ie;fabric packages are stored in two
areas as checked and unchecked fabrics. Such systematic maintenance of the store
makes it easy to locate the fabric whenever needed in future. In the company four
checkers, two load men, one quality checker and one in-charge officer are authorised.
● Fabric issue: The fabric store issues the fabric for cutting on challan. All fabric is not
issued at one go. Instead, it is issued as required. The challan contains information
regarding style number, color, buyer's name and quantity to be issued.

FABRIC STORE

Fabric store maintain the fabric coming from the suppliers. It enters the data regarding the
inward and outward movement of the fabric in the specified quantity, both to and from the
departments. In Maryan, fabric stores are maintained by a store in-charge. There are two
assistants under the store in-charge. Their responsibility is to maintain the fabric till a suitable
time, because the same fabric can be used to create samples for the buyers. As soon as the
fabric is received in the store, each roll is checked for width and length as mentioned in the
reports. The stickers and labels are checked with the help of a barcode machine. Other
materials like hooks and buttons are checked by measuring the weights. According to the
issue of fabrics to the cutting units, the cutting units will provide a cutting issue slip to the
stores. According to those details the store department takes decisions in supplying fabric. In
Maryan, the store department performs the following functions to safeguard the materials
from deterioration or theft :
● Receipts of good into the store department
● Issue of materials to the required department
● Checking invoice
● Maintaining proper records
● The invoice with the materials received a note and purchase order in the respect of the
number of materials received.
At Maryan, goods are issued on a First In First Out (FIFO) basis. The store department will
request the material department to place an order, when there is no stock of materials asked
by the user department. This material department inspects raw materials to check whether
they met specifications and they prepare the goods received report. The following are the
eight main documents prepared and maintained by the store department for the purpose of
reporting to the finance department:
● Bin Slip: A bin card or bin slip is attached alone with goods received in a particular
consignment. The bin slip specifies the quality, brand, supplies, etc. of the
consignment received and the subsequent issue from a particular bin is also recorded
on the bin card.
● Store ledger
● Goods Received Report: After the goods are received from the store department
prepares a goods received report and it is set to the user department so as to inform
the user department about the receipt of goods. The GRR mentions all the
specifications of goods received in terms of quality, quantity,etc.

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 ● Good Received Note: After the preparation of the GRR, the store department prepares
the goods received note. This is sent to the material department so as to inform the
department about goods received, and the copy of this is also sent to the financial
department for releasing money to the material department.
● Store Requisition Issued Note: The store requisition issued note clearly stores the
amount of goods required for the user and subsequent issue of the goods. The stock is
issued on a First In First Out basis.
● Delivery Note
● Purchase Indent
● Purchase Order

All raw materials will be at two months stock level and the purchase is done in bulk
depending up on the availability and demand for financial goods.
At Maryan, the stock is valued on the weighted average method. If store in-charge feels that
the level is critical, he reports the same to the material handling department and subsequent
actions are taken.

FABRIC INSPECTION

All fabrics are inspected under the 4 point Grading system. Penalty points are assigned based
on the standard fault and chalk marks are then put for identification of serious defects in the
subsequent process.

Fault description under 4 point system:

LEVEL POINT

3 to 75mm 1

75 mm to 150mm 2

150mm to 230mm 3

>220mm 4

The above points are computed as per the defective notice such as bare side shading, narrow
or irregular width and uneven finishing. If it is more than 25 points, the materials are rejected.
The fabric department also inspects for shrinkage and fabric count. For shrinkage,
● Fabric is cut into 50 cm x 50 cm from each.
● It is over locked and marked with roll numbers and warp direction.
● Making is done as per shrinkage template.
● Washing is done as per the requirement.
● Shrinkage percent in both warp and weft for every roll is determined.

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For fabric counting,
● Fabric is checked lot wise as per the 4 point system.
● 100% of fabric is checked for lot quality below 5000 meters.
● 10% of the fabric is checked for lot quality above 5000 metres and if lot fails, 100% is
checked.
● Unwashed samples are given to the cutting department for panel checking.

PROCESS FLOW

5. PURCHASE DEPARTMENT

The purchasing department is similar to the sourcing department but the main difference is
that the sourcing department works for sourcing the fabric alone while the purchasing
department works for sourcing the trims and accessories as well. However, the working
procedure is the same.
The merchandiser gives the tech pack and the BOM for a particular style to the purchasing
department and the concerned person will start the further process and for costing purposes

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the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the production and also the price
involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete procedure involved for it's
production. In the process of doing the in-house price, suppose the cost of 100 pieces of
button is Rs. 32 then a tax of 2%, 14% of excise duty, and a 10% of per unit price is added as
the transportation charges and this all together makes the in-house price.
This break up is given to the merchandiser by the purchasing department for the costing
purpose, the cost sheet is made by the merchandiser and the order is confirmed by the buyer
based on the cost sheet given.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the trims and
accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc.,will be given by the merchandiser to the
purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally followed in the industry for
all orders irrespective of the buyer.
Once the purchasing department receives this format then the PO is sent to the concerned
department for accessories and trims. Once the first shot of the raw materials is sent by the
supplier then the lab checks are done and is approved by the buyer.
After receiving the goods from the supplier they are checked for the quantity and also
checked according to the inspection criteria specified by the buyer and replaced if any of
them are not meeting criterion. This department also keeps track of all the quantities received
in-house timely. The goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the
merchandiser according to the requirements stated by the planning and the production
department and this breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this is not being
mentioned then the order is placed with the supplier several times for small quantities and
PO's have to be sent all the time. In order to prevent this, proper breakups are given.
Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for deliveries and when the
merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for a particular style, the department also
has to maintain receipts and maintain documents of the inspections that are being carried out
for those materials.

TRIMS & ACCESSORIES STORE

The acceptance of the raw material or the accessories is generally done in terms of the
documents ie; whatever it may be whether acceptance or revival, they are done according to
the documents they have received from the merchants and also the department makes
documents for anything carried out under their roof.
The department first receives a PO copy from the merchandiser. As soon as the department
comes to know about the date on which they will receive that particular material, they will
make a note of it in their Erp that they will be receiving that material.
Once the material reaches the stores on the given day and date, the concerned person verifies
the materials against invoice and packing list which they would have received from the
merchandiser as already stated. After it is confirmed that the received materials are according
to the documents then they carry out a quality inspection irrespective to the type of the buyer
as per AQL standard for all types of goods received.

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AQL Quantity Chart:

Lot size or quantity being Inspect Accept

audited

Less than 151 8 0

151-280 20 0

281-500 32 1

501-1200 32 1

1201-3200 50 2

3201-10000 80 3

10001-35000 125 5

35001-150000 200 7

150001-5000000 315 10

5000000 and above 500 14

After inspecting the materials for the quality as per AQL then the allocation of trims done
based on the nature of the item.
Then the department prepares the GRN (goods receipt notes) according to the materials
received and against the documents received from the merchants and they also do the bill
entry. The bills whatever they enter is forwarded to the accounts department for the payments
and to fulfill other formalities and a copy of it is also given to the sourcing department in
order to inform them about the materials in-housed.
After this the department has to carry out two processes hand-in-hand:,
● Sub contracting: In this method they prepare the work order and also the delivery
challan and then they keep all the documents and also forward the trims along with
the document for processing.
● Production issues: Another thing that they have to do is identify trims which have
been approved by merchants and then prepare the delivery challan and keep the trims
ready to issue to the factory. Materials to be issued after inspection.

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 6. IE DEPARTMENT

The IE department has to work with many other departments as this department gives the
entire idea of the garment construction and the thread and trims consumption criteria,
operators skill level categorization and other related aspects hence they play a vital role in
determining the cost of producing a single piece of the garment and they also calculate the
cost of the factory for that particular style of garment.

The IE department helps the planning department to know the time required for the
production of that particular style of the garment by calculating the SAM value for it and they
also help in knowing the capacity of the factory based on which the planning department
takes a decision if they have to proceed with the item or not.

The IED calculates the SAM value for the garment, calculates the productivity of the given
style for the initial costing and also calculates or counts the accessories consumption by the
style and gives all these details to the merchandising department for the costing purpose
because the entire costing criteria depends on these aspects and the IED also gives the
merchants suggestions regarding the reduction of the cost of manufacturing the garment by
modifying any of the steps and the method of doing it.

The IED people prepare the style bulletin which includes the different types of seams and
stitches that has to be done for the garment and it also includes the length of the seams and
the types of stitches that has to be carried out at different places of the garment as per the
buyer’s specifications and approval. Types of thread (which is the TEX), area of placement of
the trims and accessories and its location different kinds of labels that are supposed to be
placed, the criteria under which the finished garment has to be checked, the times at which
the inspection has to be carried out will also be mentioned in the style bulletin, this bulletin
will be similar to the Tech Pack but contains more technical data than that.

This department will analyze and estimate the manpower and their skill level which is
required for the production of the garment, they also set a target to the batch for an hour, for a
shift and for a month which will help them to maintain their outputs and also helps in timely
completion of the order or sometimes earlier. They will also give the target to each operator
based on his/her capacity and skill in order to help them finish their piece of work on time
and also maintain the quality of their work.

After setting the targets for a batch and also for each operator then they will calculate the
efficiency. This efficiency is purely based on the daily output of the batch as well as the
single operator and then they come up with the monthly output by the particular batch. This
department maintains a file which is the DPR (Daily Production Report), in this report they

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update the batch number, style/item number, actual output, committed output, SAM value of
the garment (both actual and that particular days SAM value), total production till date,
average efficiency of the batch till date, peak efficiency achieved, if the company was
working that day or not, if there was a delay of production then the reason behind it,
information about the batch setting prior to the mass production, etc., all this will be
mentioned in this DPR.

Based on the operator’s performance which would have been observed for a specified period
of time, the department will allocate a grade to the operator which is as follows:

Skill type Grade

A Highly skilled

B Skilled

C Semi-skilled

The operators for each batch are taken in a ratio of,

20% - Highly Skilled

25% - Skilled
55% - Semi skilled

This is done irrespective of any style and buyer and the complication of the style. A record is
maintained in which the skills of operators are updated on a timely basis. Because of
maintaining this record they keep in track of the operator’s skill and his efficiency, working
method and after a particular span of time they update the record.
Suppose a new operator joins and he is completely unaware of stitching then a training for
about 45 – 50 days is given to him/her and then based on their learning and grasping capacity
a grade is been allocated to them primarily. Suppose the operator/new employee knows or has
a previous work experience in a garment industry then he is just asked about his job which
he/she would have done in the previous factory and then he/she is just given an hour’s test to
know his skills and then grade is allocated.

Every day the IED team there will be a meeting where they speak about the maintenance of
efficiency of the batch on the production floor. They also conduct production review
meetings with the operation team in which they discuss the line and the operation carried out
in the batch suppose the previously planned flow is not giving the estimated efficiency and
output then they will think of changing the line plan and review it and later follow the right
one.

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 7. FINANCE OR ACCOUNTING DEPARTMENT

Finance is the life of every business firm. It is the basis which provides the platform to carry
out managerial functions like production, marketing, etc. So it is very important to manage
finance properly and efficiently for effective business growth. Finance management refers to
the managerial activity which is considered with the planning and controlling of the firm’s
financial resources. It deals with finding different sources of finance and raising allocation
and management of the financial functions of the firm.

Major objectives of the department:

● To protect the financial interest of the company

● To help in achieving business results
● Monitoring the funds,collection and payments
● Controlling the inflow and outflow of cash
● Financial planning and mobilization of cash
● To exercise cost control and cost reduction techniques
● To monitor and control the budget

Major tasks of the department:

● Develops, plans and implements goals and objectives for the finance and
administration department, prepares and administers internal policies and procedures
relating to departmental program activities; interprets and explains applicable rules,
laws and regulations to supervisors and others.
● Directs, oversees and participates in the departmental program work plan; assigns
work activities, finance and administration projects and programs; monitors work
flow; reviews and evaluates work products, methods and procedures; implements
needed work process and automation improvements and methods for improving
customer service.
● Manages the preparation and maintenance of a variety of financial records and
reports, including those related to the general ledger, accounts payable, accounts
receivable, payroll, job costing, inventories, budgets and fixed assets; ensures the
purchasing of materials, supplies and equipment are conducted in accordance with
company policies and procedures.
● Oversees preparation and presentation of the annual budget; supervises data gathering
and financial planning work associated with rate setting; prepares rate analyses. 5. As
Treasurer, oversees cash management, investment, and debt management activities.
● Coordinates departmental activities with other departments and divisions; provides
responsible advice and counsel to the General Manager, and department and division
managers on a variety of financial and administrative issues; oversees the

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 maintenance of departmental records and files; administers liability claims and
property insurance programs.
● Manages information technology support services for the company including
installation, maintenance and upgrade of both mainframe and network based
applications pursuant to an information technology master plan; through user groups
and other means, explores opportunities to improve efficiency and productivity
through user friendly information technology enhancements.
● Conducts financial reviews of company operations and activities and report’s findings
and recommendations to the General Manager and Board of Directors; serves as
liaison with external auditors and coordinates their activities on behalf of the
company.
● Attends Board of Director and Board Committee meetings; prepares and presents staff
reports and agenda items for consideration by the Board; serves as advisor to the
General Manager and Board as to financial planning and administration. 10.
Coordinates preparation of the annual budget request for the finance and
administration department; reviews staffing, equipment, and supply needs based upon
recent trends and planned.

Sources of finance

The various sources of finance used in Maryan Apparels are,

● Bank loan
● Overdraft facility

Accounting principles of the company

● Financial accounts are accounted at cost less depreciation

● Stock in trade valued at cost
● Depreciation on fixed assets is charged at 10% annual and a written value method is
used.
● All income and expenditure are accounted on mercantile bars
● Drawings are fixed up to Rs.15000 per month

Accounting procedures

The company follows double entry book keeping. They maintain records for day to day
activities and prepare ledger accounts. Financial accounts are prepared at the end of every
month within the direction of the financial manager. Accounts are maintained with the help of
tally software.

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Production Planning and Control (PPC)

The planning department has the responsibility of converting the orders booked by the
merchant, to the production team for the easy execution of the order. Based on the TnA and
the availability of the line the PPC team allocates the order on the production floor as which
process has to be done at what time. The production is done in the section system with front,
sleeve, collar, cuff & back as the preparatory section and one assembly section. The operators
are dedicated to each operation as per the capacity planning and delivery date of the order.

Workflow

8. PRODUCTION DEPARTMENT

Production is the core activity of all industrial units which is nothing but conversion of raw
materials into products. Here the production is done by the “CUT TO PACK” process. All
the cutting, sewing and packing is on one line itself. Like that total of 10 lines must be there
in different two floors. In one line 35 to 40 machines are there and for that line one separate

23
cutting and finishing table is there. Production consists of all the process activities involved
in reducing the bulk material used in apparel into the component parts making up the apparel.

The cutting room is a combined section for spreading, cutting, ticketing, fusing, printing and
bundling. This is just near to the fabric store. There is one spreading table of 23 feet length.
The lay is cut by a straight knife on the cutting table and the blocks are transferred to the
numbering table and then for fusing/printing/embroidery and then for bundling.

The Basic Workflow

The Spreading and Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the
production manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a
given amount of styles, from the spreads. It comes in the form of a package file that carries
the following details:
● Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only), and other trims
averages.
● Measurement sheet
● Design worksheet of the garment
● Purchase order
● Fabric requisition sheet
● CAD mini marker
● Marker planning- length of lay,size,ratio and colors in which the patterns are to be cut.

Spreading

Spreading is the process of superimposing plies of fabric on a horizontal table in a manner,

which permits these plies to be cut simultaneously into product components acceptable for
assembly. For this, first of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the table using an
adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during spreading. Then the actual
spreading process begins with the laying of the first fabric layer on this brown sheet and
subsequently the other plies are laid. The spreading of this lay is done manually. The length
of the lay depends upon the quality of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the
CAD whereas the lay height depends upon the thickness of the fabric.

Length of spreading table - 23.6 feet(283’’)

Width of spreading table - 6 feet(72”)
Height of spreading table - 3 feet(37.5”)
Table top type - Sunmica
Spreading mode - FONO

Cutting

The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or CAM
m/c. The machine is moved through the lay following the pattern lines of the marker and the

24
reciprocating blade cuts the pieces of the fabric progressively. Notches are also added. The
garments are kept aside as and when they are cut.

Sorting and Ticketing

The pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size wise. All the components of one
garment size are brought together. It is very important to take care that pieces cut from two
different bolts (bundles) of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are
bolt-to-bolt variations in the colour shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed.
Ticketing is the process of marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and
sequence identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket using
a ticket gun as he flips over the cut parts. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and
piece number and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly
line from start to end. After ticketing cut panels are sent for fusing/printing/embroidery
processes.

Embroidery

The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
embroidery as stated in the production package. They check for any embroidery and follow
up these departments accordingly. Blocks of panels are sent for embroidery, which are
checked after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the panels, the cut panels are sorted
according to size wise.

Fusing

Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from
the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept between
two papers sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By means of the
temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed and for a particular time.
The pack comes out at the other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and
re-bundled.

Bundling

The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of the bundle depends upon the requirement of the production plant. Each
bundle will contain pieces of the same style and same size only. The cutting department
issues the amount required by the production department when asked for.

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Workflow

Sewing

Sewing has always been the most dominant of all the processes in the garment industry.
Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is concerned with the
achievement of satisfactory construction of seams and permutation and combinations during
line balancing for getting the maximum output without compromising with the quality
standards. Sewing is carried out as per the sample provided, after the sewing, quality control
checks the measurements and sent to finishing.

When an order is confirmed, a folder iss ent to the sewing department containing all the
details about the style that is,
● Order quantity
● Color ratio
● Size ratio
● Garment specification
● Fabric required
● Trims details
● Garment stitch details
● Required cut quantity/ day

After receiving the above mentioned details, the department sends the feeding helper to
receive the cut part of a particular style. The feeding helper gets the cut parts and stores
temporarily in the sorting department. The in-charge of the sorting department makes a

26
delivery slip for the trims department, for issuing the trims corresponding to that respective
style. After the trims are received, the bundles are loaded in the respective batches.
At first, very less quantity of around 100 to 200 pieces are loaded in the sewing line. There
are inline checkers at various points within the line so that defects in the sewing process can
be identified and corrected before further investment of time. At the end of the line, there is a
final inspection table of the garments done, and the presentation of that garment is inspected
in terms of stitching quality. The complete pieces are then counted later. These are collected
and sent to the kaja button section for button attachment.

Machines used in sewing department are,

1. Highlead Gc 188-md2 SNLS (UBT)

2. Vetron Typical Gk0056-1 SNLS (chain stitch)
3. Juki MH-3218 SNLS
4. Highlead Fd-57a DNLS
5. FDM m-700 4 thread overlock
6. Pegasus h-928-m 5 thread overlock
7. Hashima Collar turning m/c
8. C-280B fusing machine
9. Highlead snap attaching m/c

The supervisor plays a vital role in the production floor. He manages the entire batch which
has been allocated to them and they have the following functions to perform,
➔ They have to convey the proper stitching method to the operators.
➔ Guide the operators when they face difficulty in making an operation and teach them
the most suitable and an easy method of performing the task.
➔ Check if the entire operator in the batch/line is busy with the work being allocated to
them. If the operator does not have any material to work on then the supervisor has to
get him/her their material and ask them to work.
➔ Complain the production managers if the operators are not performing their best.
➔ Have to maintain a proper communication between the operators and the
management.
➔ Should be in a position to tell the manager about each operator’s skill level whenever
asked for.
➔ When any operator is on leave then the supervisor has to make sure who can be a
better person to fit into that vacant place.
➔ At times the supervisor himself sits and performs the operation if necessary.
➔ The supervisor should be in good terms with all the operators by having a friendly
approach to them and also must make sure that none of them create any trouble for the
factory at any time.

The production managers help the planning department during planning or allocating a
particular line for the style by telling them the capacity of the line and also telling them about
the skills of the operators.

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Process flow in sewing department

Washing

Garment washing is normally done after stitching. According to fashion trends and customer
demands buyers ask for washing. They mention exactly what type of washing needs to be
done. Washing is usually done,
➔ To remove starch that applied during fabric manufacturing
➔ To soften the garments
➔ To remove dirt, spots, oil stains
➔ To remove the chemicals used during printing/embroidery process

Finishing

The stitched materials from the sewing department are taken for finishing. First the buttons
are attached to the garment, and then it is taken for the washing process. After washing it
goes to the hydro extractor for the removal of excess water. Then the material goes to the
duster machine for the removal of dust. The next thing is attachment of tags. Sizes are
marked and garments are folded properly. Finally the garments are given for packing.
Two types of packing are done - Ratio packing and Solid packing. In ratio packing different
sizes of products such as S,M,L,XL,XXL are there. The total number of products in the ratio
packing system is 30. In solid packing, the same sizes of 20 pieces of products are there.
After all these products are sent for exporting.

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9. QUALITY CONTROL DEPARTMENT

Maryan Apparels acquired internationally acclaimed ISO-9001:2000 quality management

during the year 2005. The International Organization for Standardisation aims at product
quality management. The company has a quality policy which relates to the improvement at
all the activities in the organization. The company has undergone an audit system since 2008.
The company has acquired Business Social Complain initiate (BSCI) certification. The
quality objectives of the company are,
● Reduce rework
● To identify and establish new customers
● To increase the turnover

Responsibility and authority of quality control manager:

➔ Ensure the process of quality management systems are established, implemented and
maintained.
➔ To report the top management on the quality management system including for
improvement
➔ Promoting awareness of customer requirements throughout the organisation
➔ To liaison with external partition matter to QMS decisions
➔ Coordinating quality functions and takes appropriate decisions

SWOT Analysis

A SWOT analysis is a structured planning method to evaluate strength,

weakness,opportunities and threats involved in business ventures. It involves specifying the
objective of a business venture or project and identifying the internal and external factors that
are favorable and unfavourable to achieve the objectives. Maryan apparels follow a
systematic method of SWOT analysis:

Strength
➔ Raw material management
➔ Good infrastructure
➔ Well trained staffs
➔ Good decision making
Weakness
➔ Lack of technical superiority
➔ Increased transportation cost
➔ Less attention to manpower
Opportunities
➔ Open market access
➔ Global aided manufacturing

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 ➔ Global information flow

Threats
➔ High competition
➔ Decreasing fashion cycle

10. HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT

Human resource department is concerned with the creation of harmonious working

relationships among the employees and bringing out their best possible professional selves.
This department undertakes all those activities, which are concerned with the human
elements or relationships. The main objective is the overall development of the employees in
the organisation.
Their main focus is on the recruitment of employees. In Maryan, they have employees over
200 workers and women occupy 90 percent of it. 170 workers are at floor level and 30 at
managerial level.
There are 6 committees functioning for the welfare of the employees. They are,
● Worker's committee
● Health and safety Committee
● Canteen Committee
● Grievance Committee
● Anti-harassment and abuse Committee
● Environmental Committee

The major functions of the department are,

● Recruitment of the employees
● Implementing policies
● Salary/wage administration
● Public relations
● Law administration

Recruitment

Recruitment is both external and internal. External sources are newspaper ads or notices.
Internal sources are basically promotion to a higher post. This is done to fill vacancies of
middle and top personnel. After the recruitment employees are given training.

Training

The training is given in a very systematic and effective way. In Maryan they follow KSDA
(Karl Salmon Visual Production Test), and KSP. Before the test employees are given an
introduction regarding it.

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Disciplinary Action

Incase of misconduct a complaint is raised following which there will be a call for
explanation from the accused. If proven guilty, a fine is imposed.

Leaves and Holidays

a) General leave structures:

● Earned leave- 15 days
● Sick leave- 10 days
● Casual leave- 7 days
● Festival leave- 10 days

b) Maternity leave for women employees

Maternity leave facility act 1961 is followed. Under this act, the company will sanction 12
weeks of special leave with full salary.

Employees work from 9 am to 5.30 pm. The workers get bonuses from the joining days on
the basis of their productivity. As per the government rules the company has to pay 8.33%
bonus to the employees.
The range of increment of a worker is from a minimum of Rs. 100 to maximum of Rs. 500.

Benefits given by the company

● Employees State Insurance: 1.75 percent of the employees contribute to the gross
wages, 4.75% employer's contribution of gross wages
● Provident fund (PF) :121 percent of the employee's contribution on basic data, 12
percent of employer's contribution on basic DA
● Overtime
● Leave wage policy

Cash bonus: 8.33% of total wages earned during financial year

Gratuity: 15 days wages for every one year completed
List of holidays: 13 days leave in the current year
Funeral benefits: Incase of death of an insured person, funeral expense of Rs. 2500 is paid to
the department under ESL act.

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9. MAINTENANCE DEPARTMENT

The maintenance department is responsible not only for the maintenance of the machines but
it is also responsible for providing and maintaining the facilities for the production activities
like illumination, air circulation, workplace engineering, etc.
The condition of machines and working atmosphere in the department is mainly dependent
on the care taken and working according to the habits of the operators and all other floor
employees.

Health and Safety measures followed:

Maryan Apparels offer a safer working environment and proactive occupational health
programmers in keeping with standard to the company. The necessary steps are taken to
prevent accidents. They comply with all national and local health and safety laws and
regulations. They have obtained all the local and national health and safety certificates,
permits and maintain the documents of government officials. In the company, machine oil is
changed once in 3 to 4 months and the machines are cleaned on a weekly basis. The oil level
in every machine is checked once every week. In the maintenance room all equipment,
attachments, nuts, bolts, needles, etc. are stored in a proper way by listing each box.

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 PROJECT

APPLICATION OF 5S FOR QUALITY IMPROVEMENT

A 5S implementation helps to define the first rules to eliminate waste and maintain an
efficient, safe, and clean work environment. It was first popularized by Taiichi Ohno, who
designed the Toyota Production System and Shigeo Shingo, who also put forward the concept
of poka-yoke.
5S comes from 5 Japanese words and each of them starts with S. These are seiri, seiton, seiso,
seiketsu, and shitsuke, if we translate these 5 Japanese words into English then we get Sort,
Set in Order, Shine, Standardize, and Sustain. In the garment industry 5S works as a basic
tool of Lean Manufacturing, a technique to set a well organized, clean, and visually attractive
workplace. That’s why the implementation of 5S in the apparel industry is required.

Objectives of the project

● To study and understand 5S and its applications in the garment industry.

● To find out the major problems that cause obstacles in maintaining an efficient work
environment.
● To explore the scope of improvement with the application of 5S.

Methodology

1. Identification of problems
2. Evaluation
3. Application of 5S for improvement

Limitations of the project

● Time constraints as only one day of factory visit was allowed

● Taking pictures was restricted in the factory
● Project was carried out on theory basis

Basic Concepts for 5S Implementation

S1. Sort (Seiri)

5S starts with sort. Sort means to sort out unnecessary items, use all machines, tools,
equipment for regular use. Define daily needed items, weekly needed items, and monthly
needed items and keeping separate. The store is broken, unusable or occasionally used items

33
also should be defined. Keep records for eliminating unnecessary items that exist and new
items. Each and every section of garments you may find many things are kept in a haphazard
way. So for these, you need to follow the first S from the 5S, i.e Sort. Sorting according to
items characteristics and importance.

S2. Set in Order – SEITON

Setting order is important for 5S. All items, sections, and areas (In, exist) are clearly
identified by a label and everything should be well organized. Never mix/store two category
items in one place. Dividing lines, aisle mark, Stairway is clearly identified and clean as per
standard. Confirm that the exits are accessible and unlocked during working hours. Confirm
that, where necessary, the emergency exit doors have no panic hardware or lever style (one
hand, one motion door openers). If you keep all of your store materials in your garments
warehouse in a planned order basis, then whenever required that materials you can easily find
out and get those materials. That’s why all materials should be kept in accordance with the set
in order.

S3. Shining – SEISO

The third S from 5S is Shine, actually means cleanliness. All items/place of workplace
Floors, walls, stairs, ceilings, pipework Racks, cabinets, shelves, Machines, equipment, tools,
Stored items, materials, products, and lighting everything required to be kept clean. All
cleaning tools and materials are easily accessible. Cleaning assignments are defined and are
being followed by the checklist and hang checklist on the visible board. Do periodical pest
control to make sure there is no insect. Cleanliness is not only a compliance issue but also
this increases a healthy working environment in garments factories or offices.

S4. Standardize – SEIKETSU

The first three steps of 5S are the key to implement 5S in the workplace. This section is about
visualization by Information displays, related SOPs, signs, color coding and other markings
are established everywhere of the factory also included procedures for maintaining the first
three S’s are being displayed. Do regular 5’s audit using a checklist, give & post rating to
each area. Need formal training, keep training records to approach towards improvement.
These standardizations increase the operating efficiency of the apparel industry.

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S5. Sustain – SHITSUKE

This section is to sustain 5S in the textile and garments factory to be the way of life rather
than just a routine. Success stories are being displayed (i.e. before and after pictures) in every
section of the 5S board. Give rewards and recognition is part of the 5S system to sustain 5S.

S6 and S7(Extension of 5S)

Now, 5S have two additional points 6th “S” for “Safety” and the 7th “S’’ is “Security”. These
two new points’ objective is to make a safe workplace for all employees. It is the employer’s
responsibility to provide safety and security for both factory and office place in the apparel
industry.

Benefits of 5S

● Health and Safety is ensured

● The base of implementation of quality improvement
● Productivity Increase
● Save time, cost and storage space
● Minimization of accidents & mistakes
● Increases efficiency
● Creates workplace ownership
● The first step for Lean procedures
● Increase customer satisfaction
● Reduce inventory time
● Reduce downtime, wastage
● Good working environment
● Visualization and labeling
● Boost morale
● Improve company image
● Optimize organization and workplace as per requirement
● Routine wise work schedule and visual Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
everywhere
● Everybody knows their working responsibility where and when
● Disciplined housekeeping

Steps to implement 5S in Apparel Industry:

● Should have a central committee of 5S and a wise subcommittee of the section.

● 5S list of organograms and boards as included.

35
 ● For a Committee, make a separate T-Shirt.
● Carry out 5s housekeeping training and drive.
● Section wise checklist for 5S.
● In each section, the 5S display board.
● Operate and submit a report on Section wise 5S audit.
● Assess the score and take corrective measures to improve each department.

Actions to be implement 5S:

● Take pictures of "before."

● Make sure the first three Ss are properly implemented.
● All team activity documents/checklists on a 5S board should be shown publicly.
● Create regular and systemic routines and standard practices.
● The first three S's repeating. Standardize procedures for red tags and rules of holding
areas (see Seiri).
● Establish a housekeeping maintenance system.
● A special team (including senior management), will continue regular inspection/audit
and assessment.
● Any praise or commendation of good practices or good performers is no criticism of
poor cases.
● Set a timetable for workplace clearance. It is common to ask a multi-functional team
to do this.
● Competition between departments is an effective means to sustain and increase the
interest in 5S.
● Assign responsibility for a working area and machinery to individuals.
● Take pictures and post on 5S boards afterward. Take pictures. Give the highest
markup reward.

Problems identified in the company:

Sieri

● Defected pieces lying on the floor unattended

● Tools missing from tool board and drawers

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 ● Incomplete garments lying in cartons on floor without proper information

Seiton

● Violation of yellow lines

● No listings of the items in the drawer
● No labelling on trim racks

Sieso

● Grim and dirt on floor

● Defect stickers stuck on floor
● No self cleaning is done by operators
● Not using the dustbin

Seiketsu

● No visual guidance for operators

● Variable WIP at different work stations

Shitsuke

● Workers not following workplace discipline

Step 1: Sorting out

Segregate each item into needed and not needed and arrange them on the shelf accordingly.

37
 ➔ Discard unwanted things
➔ Use proper labelling for every object that needs to be stored in the red tag area.

Name of the object

Area which it belongs to

Quantity

Authorized person to handle

Authorized person to dispose

Used / Unused

Validity

Method of disposal

Sample label

Step 2: Systematic arrangement

➔ Arrange shelves and drawers

➔ Do the labelling and define the positions

38
 ➔ Implement poka yoke for files
➔ Prepare a layout for the systematic positioning of fans,lights, exhaust, etc.
➔ Do labelling on tool board
➔ Arrange the spare parts of machines in small cuboids
➔ Prepare a master card for files.
➔ Mark the output bin as green and input bin as blue with proper labellings

Step 3: Spic and Span

Visual Observation - Practically checking - cleansing- Measure and calibrate

➔ Prepare a calendar for the activities

Activity Timing Frequency Assigned to

Workstation Before operations Daily Operator

cleaning start

Toilets cleaning 9.00 am to 1.30 pm Daily Housekeeping

Sweeping of floor 9.00 am to 1.30 pm Daily Housekeeping

Office cleaning 9.00 am Daily Housekeeping

Mopping of floor Lunch break Two days a week Housekeeping

Window panes Any time of the day Once in a week Housekeeping

Fabric and trims Any time of the day Once in a week Housekeeping
store

Step 4: Standardization

➔ Hang SOP cards on each workstation

➔ Use different coloured input and output bin
➔ Make uniform and ID card compulsory
➔ Make safety tools like masks, gloves, aprons,etc. compulsory

39
Step 5: Sustain

➔ All workers should be clearly informed about the changes and process
➔ Management should take care that the rules are followed
➔ Continuous monitoring of 5S activities
➔ Create work discipline
➔ Reward and appreciate good performances

These steps can provide the following benefits:

● Health and Safety is ensured

● The base of implementation of quality improvement
● Productivity Increase
● Save time, cost and storage space
● Minimization of accidents & mistakes
● Increases efficiency
● Creates workplace ownership
● The first step for Lean procedures
● Increase customer satisfaction
● Reduce inventory time
● Reduce downtime, wastage
● Good working environment
● Visualization and labeling
● Boost morale
● Improve company image
● Optimize organization and workplace as per requirement
● Routine wise work schedule and visual Standard Operating Procedure (SOP)
everywhere
● Everybody knows their working responsibility where and when
● Disciplined housekeeping

40
 OBSERVATIONS AND SUGGESTIONS FOR PROCESS IMPROVEMENT

Observation Reason for current Suggestion Future effect

status

Allocation of Required manpower Allocate more Reduce time and

manpower is not is not available people in cutting improve capacity
proper because of Covid section and efficiency
situation

Hand scissors are Lack of proper Only end cutters Improve efficiency
used sometimes equipments should be used for and quality
instead of end proper edge cutting
cutters

Splicing is not done It’s been considered Splicing should be Reduces recutting
at any level as a waste of time done to prevent and wastage of
value loss fabric

Shifting of the lay Lack of enough Usage of air Tension between

from spreading table tables and slow floatation tables and plies are maintained
to cutting table takes work. Cutting proper training of and lay won't be
time and causes helpers aren’t cutting helpers distorted
distortion in lay comparatively fast
enough to remove
the cut parts from
the cutting table.

Cut parts are kept Not making use of Usage of proper Reduces loss of time
under the tables racks and lack of racks according to
supervision production lines

Some workers are Not well trained/ Production Increased motivation

slow enough not to lack of supervision/ managers and and sincerity
complete the work irresponsible supervisors should towards work
in a specified take care , control
amount of time and motivate the
workers.

41
 REFERENCES

● Purohit, S. (2015). Implementation of 5S Methodology in a Manufacturing Industry.

International Journal of Scientific & Engineering Research, [online] 6(8). Available
at:
https://www.ijser.org/researchpaper/Implementation-of-5S-Methodology-in-a-Manufa
cturing-Industry.pdf [Accessed 3 Dec. 2020].
● K‌ han, A. and Islam, M. (2013). Application of 5S System in the Sample Section of an
Apparel Industry for Smooth Sample Dispatch. Research Journal of Management
Sciences, [online] 2(7), pp.28–32. Available at:
http://www.isca.in/IJMS/Archive/v2/i7/5.ISCA-RJMS-2013-041.pdf.
● ‌Garments Merchandising. (2016). Influence of 5S Principles on Garments
Productivity. [online] Available at:
https://garmentsmerchandising.com/influence-of-5s-principles-on-garments-productiv
ity/ [Accessed 3 Dec. 2020].
● Apparel Production Terms and Processes. (n.d.). [online] Available at:
http://www.fashiondex.com/Bubonia_Sample_1.pdf [Accessed 5 Dec. 2020].

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