Architecture +design (Conservation in India)
Architecture +design (Conservation in India)
Architecture +design (Conservation in India)
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A JOURNAL FOR THE INDIAN ARCHITECT VOL VI NO I NOV-DEC 1989 Rs 40 (§
• I
Ghats of
Mathura and
Vrindavan
Rajat Ray
1'_··
,? he ghat area or the main land-water interface has sive array of structures that have become architectural assets
the
in their own right. But through the passage of time, even as
the interface continues to play its traditional role in the lives
of the people, constant use and maintenance neglect are
destroying not just the architecture, but the charecter of the
physical transition from }an d to water is symbolically
associatedw1th the passage from life to death3 or an eternal entire interface.
life thereafter. It is this central idea that converts the interface The INTACH projects for the Mathura and Vrindavan
into a sacred or holy entity, a place of worship, a stage for Ghats in the cultural area of Brajbhumi attempt to repair and
celebration or ritual activity, generating incessant physical restore the physical attributes of the ghats, but more signific-
intervention on the interface. In several important riparian antly, attempt,to revitalize the symbolic and sacred link
towns the complex cycle of activities and interventions at the between the river and the town "so that the ghats can play a
of Braj culture."
ghats, have given rise to an extremely beautiful and impres- 1 niininfegnl l role lb the regeneration
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!"°'~C:S:O~N~S~E~R~V~A~T~IO~N~•~I~N~D~IA
would be 164.0m as proposed , in the
he ghats of Mathura and Vrindavan were laid to trap the flow of sewage into the INT ACH report.
Ttraditiona
display exquisite examples of the
land-wate r interface design in the
l riparian towns of India. The holy
river. After functioning for 15 years, these
systems were severely affected by the floods
of 1978.
In the early eighties, the Depa_rtment
The recomme ndations to develop and
remedy the problems of the ghats have
always _r~mained _at the level of g~neral pol-
region of Brajbhum i through which flows icy dec1s1ons , owing to the enormity of
the sacred river, Yamuna, has a 2,500 year of Tourism asked the National Institute of issues involved. While it is felt that certain
as
long history of developm ent. The cultural S\Pesign (who appointed Kulbhushan Jain inputs such as the use of heavy machinery
towns of Mathura and ~consult ant) to prepare a tourism oriented
history of the present and substanti al manpowe r to control pollu-
Vrindava n, however, are the result of ~ developm ent plan to conserve the !radi- . tion of the river and check waste disposal
f
1.
develo~ments that began during the middl~ tional and historical aspects of BraJbhum on the river edge ar~ necessary for restoring
of
of the sixteenth century, when the Bhakti ~ The plan identified the generic features environm ental quality. a number of other
movement or the neo-Vaish navite cult t h i t Brajbhum i related to the Krishna cult , and
,() issues related to river front conservation
~ thrived during the rule of the Mughal conceptually suggested the developm ent and developm ent were thrown up in the
~ emperor, Akbar, re-emphasized this regi and conservation of such elements as the course of studies conducte d by INTACH
~ · as the Janmbhu mi and Leela Kshetra of vans, sarovars and ghats. Detailed attention not the least of which were those that recdg-
~ Krishna and converted it into a major centre was, however, limited to examples o_f infras- nized the more esoteric implications of the
for pilgrimage and hermitage for Vai- tructure and environmental developm ent r interface in the daily lives of the
land-wate
shnavas from all over the country. schemes along the Braj Chaurasi Kos Yatra, However , only a detailed analysis
people.
The longest of the several parikramas, the longest of all the parikramas defining could bring out a complex
of specific areas
or the circumambulation routes, link up a the region , with a special emphasis on the essentially need
of range of local issues that
number of sacred settlemen ts, groves, water preservation of inherent natural features intervent ion. It was with this in mind that
tanks and ghats to define the extent of the the region.
In 1986, INTACH commissioned a the Vishram Ghat in the Sati Burj area in
holy land. Mathura and Vrindava n are the
in Mathura, and the Keshi and Pandawala
two largest and most importan t settlements detailed study of the Vishram Ghat area
Ghats in Vrindava n were adopted for
in the chain with a highly developed system Mathura and the Keshi Ghat zone in Vrin- detailed study.
of ghats forming integral parts of the old davan with a view to initiate tangible, action
oriented programmes to help restore the A long rigorous process of physical sur-
town cores. vey and an involved understanding of the
river edge character and utility of the area.
Meanwhile, a decision .had been taken actual users' psychology have gone into the
Current Developments preparati on of these two projects briefly
m from
Mathura and Vrindavan were first identified to construct barrages downstrea here .
Mathura near Gokul and Agra in order to described
as a twin centre urban developm ent area
during the late sixties. Recognizing the contain water in controlled ponds, appa-
to the
ghats as intrinsic to the towns, a Draft Mas- rently to augment water supply Revitalization of Vishram
prepared and a Developm ent, towns. While in the process of studying the
ter Plan was
Authority created to look after the area. Vishram Ghat area, the INT ACH team Ghat, Sati Burj Area in
Since the beginning of this century, the realized that by retaining the proposed
water level of the river Yamuna in this belt 166.0m water level by means of the Gokul Mathura
in Mathura
has been falling rapidly, causing a shift away Barrage, the entire ghat stretch
from the existing river edge, specially
Vrindavan. In 1958, the Irrigation
in
Research
would
its
been
be submerge
essential
reduced
feature
to
.
d
165.0m
depriving
The level
following
the
has
a
town of
since
series
T long
he compact built form of the old core
of Mathura city has a two kilometre
river front. The basic edge is defined
Institute of Roorkee undertook feasibility
n of deliberati ons. The ideal level however , by an almost continuous stairscape running
studies to bring water back to the Vrindava
ghats, but the proposals were rejected on Previous page Map in traditional style showing the Chau- along the river. The ghats are individually
ac.count of cost inefficiency. Meanwhile, the rasi Kos Parikrama identified by subtle changes in the align-
load on the settlements increased and the An old photograph of the 1920s shows the _ce111ra/ court of ment of steps, transverse elements of
shortage of sanitary infrastruc ture became Vishram Ghat (below left) , and a recent photograph demarcat ion, and variations in the
acute, causing further degeneration around (below right) depicts the same area encroached upon superstru cture including burjes, chattris,
the ghats. In 1963, partial sewage systems by unchecked building activity shrines and changing rooms. A row of build-
Sall Burt: Most prominent structure on the ghal Ka"luhar Ghat: This ghat is neither used for any holy Vlahram Ghat Court: Central and mosl active area, Partkrama Zero Point: Malked by a yellow stone, this
stretch, buift .i 1570 tr, Raja Bhagwandas m his ntual nor for bathing . but only lor burning Kansa's accessible from five d ifferent directions, is end of the ghat has a rocrn with the extreme end hav·
mother's marory. The present structure 1n a state of effigy once a year. Owing 10 suategic location, the approached from river through a series of five arches. ing an octagonal profile. Presently d1lap1dated and
. disrepair and under d isputed ownership . large silted area in front acts as a tf!tty and children's Residential use to be restricted though no physical used as a catUe sheet Intended to create a better
play artfa. changes suggested. access by clearing the terrace over lhe octagonal butJ
and adding steps to Slreogtnen links w,th the rivef .
I
')
' #<"
shrine · ·-· ·
~
MANGALNATH HANUMAN · Uw.JIKA
MANDIA (BELOW)
To Bengah Ghat
llunlclpal TClillat:: Incongruous cement concrete and RlvwYamuna: Very gentle llow in this strelch encour- Tlw■ri 1: Rectangular ptatlorm on a high plinth used Veranda: Orig inally i~tended to include changing
bnck structure, built over the old viewing platform and - ages maximum boating and bathing. Bui qualily ol the for riluals and observing ghar activities. The pariluama rooms. it is accessible lrcwi, the nver and street. Wilh
Kanskhar Nulla. Cuts of! river view and blocks the water is greatly alfecled by !he indiscriminate dis- path cuts through the structure on the river side. the proposed t 64m waler level, the plinth will be sub-
chhatri Location to be shifted charge ol sewage, chemical dyes. garbage and dead
mer-ged by 30 cm of water .
boches. Localion ol dhobi ghats also adds to pollution
olwater.
~
across the steps. An augmentation of the
stairscape is proposed to match the raised
level of water. The design of the platforms
conforms to the characteristics of each iden-
169.9
:,,~( -:•.:,~t Stone structure lo be restored to its original character.
ti~ed zone. The extension proposed recog-
I ·~-. The terrace IO'Nards the river to be cleaned and made nizes the need for hard as well as soft silt
accessible from the plaza. A new pavilion proposed surfaces to accommodate large crowds as
across Iha restored pavilion to mark the zero pain! of
the psrikrams path. well as day to day use.
Street Level The surface of the central court
and ground floors of all the tiwari structures
. 164.0m are _to be preserved in good shape; surface
drams are to be covered with stone slabs.
161.7m The Sati Burj plaza is to be opened out
SECTION NEAR PARIKRAMA ZERO POINT
towards the river, removing the awkwardly
located existing toilet block which is to be
replaced with a new structure. The starting
P~int of the parikrama is to be redesigned
with proper links towards the river.
Upper Let-el The first floor of all structures
is to be cleared of recent incongruous
This space 10 be maintained after neooasary rastor a•
tlon and curing of unauthorized additions. No new
masonry additions to regain (he transpa-
structure or structural additions, Including bkxlung at rency of the chhatris aod pavilions. All dam-
arc hes to be allowed Aeslhetic a ritualistic element1
o1smaller scakt, may be pem1itted aher cauMul
ages and loss of stone work are to be
scrutiny. Commercial or resldenliel ac livilies 10 be ~epaired and restored, including the paint-
discouraged
!ng of disfigured facades and an archaeolog·
ical restoration of Sati Burj .
-· 5 PAVILION
6 PROPOSED MANDAP
SECTION BB·
-- !__ _ _ . ..llR"--
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SATI BURJ AREA
11 I • ; I
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Keshi and Pandawala point the ghat edge takes a sharp bend con- sions of courtyard houses, they front the
vexly to the river to dissolve ultimately into street on one side, while on the other, are
Ghats, Vrindavan an unbuilt natural river edge, while the river structured to address the river. At the lower
leaves the ghats again to take a larger bend. level the edge is made pukka by a range of
To Mathura The river front has a distinct visual steps leading down to the water and allow-
coherence resulting from the predominant ing a common public passage to cut across.
\(. us~ o~ red or pink sandstone, steps and
bmldmg facades with abundance of details
The upper level of the buildings almost
tf~/. in the vocabulary of Jat architecture. From
the river, the skyline behind the modest
overhangs the pedestrian path below. Large
rooms behind richly decorated walls are
;~\ : well placed with windows and jharokas.
\ .\ \ scale of buildings is punctuated by the tall
-~ \ ~ 'm /::1 shikharas of the Madan Mohan Temple and The Problems
the Jugal Kishore Temple. Pandawala and The stone steps are laid on a peculiar type
t Keshi Ghats are, however , the most elegant of well foundation in masonry on two con-
\ it~:£~~::;~~ structures, and in combination with the tinuous stretches of a total length of about a
~l~ ~
iJ \~ - .
.
.,; . ----.._
- ~---
1 KESHI GHAT -
spire of the Jugal Kishore Mandir at the
bend of the town edge they form the most
hundred metres. Eight burjes in four pairs
RiYer'Y81TMla--....._ 2 PANDAWALA GHAT
rise up from the steps as stout vertical fea-
--...--- --...._ , "-- ~ 3 JUGAL KISHOR MANDIA beautiful component of the Vrindavan tures on the continuous horizontals of the
--.... 125 0 250m Ghats. The shift in river bed, a degenera- steps. Changing rooms for bathers are
MAP OF VRINDAVAN ir7 tion of activities, a lack of maintenance and created across the steps behind the burjes.
consequent deterioration of the structures The top of the burj forms an open sit-out to
are the main'problems of the ghat tiere. The enjoy the river view. As a consequence of
Recommendations
The proposals encourage active and con- DETAIL OF BURJ
tinuous use of the ghat by restoring them in
the following manner:
- Dislocated structures are proposed to
be restored to their original position; the
existing foundation to be consolidated
by filling in the gaps and by repairing all River Yamuna
defects before they magnify. The steps 1 0 Sm
are also to be extended and supple- LJ
mented with a row of boulder pitching SECTION TliROUGH PANDAWALA GHAT
to reach the river bed gradually, and to
prevent further erosion blocking the The INTACH projects have been able Londhe, Arunav Dasgupta, Vijay .Matange, Nitin Kul-
river current. to create one significant impact in bringing ktimi; Alok Kumar, N Devi Prasad, Sanjib Chatterju.
- All superstructure defects are to be down the level of water to be retained by Particular thanks art due to G 8 Patnaik (District Magis-
removed by putting all the damaged ele- the Gokul Barrage, thus saving the ghats trate) and Dintsh Chaturvedi (The Nazul Clerk).
ments back to original shape using the from being submerged. The genesis of these The core team for Vrindavan included K T Ravindran
same materials. projects and the outcome so far strongly (Coordinator) , Anuradha Joshi, Rajat Ray and Kiran
Kalamdani, supported by Shashank Chakradeo, L 8
- Public ownership is to be established and affirm that there is a need to rejuvenate the Chandrashtkhar, Anjali Bodhani, Robin Matharu and
all possibilities of privatization of the system of patronage our traditional cultures Dilip Btdarkar (Consultant) . Special thanks art due to
public domain to be controlled. once enjoyed. With the restoration and Shri Gyan Singh (Mathura Vrindavan Development r,,.
- On a larger scale, water quantity and introduction of compatible uses , the river Authority) and Shri Sevak Sharan (loca/iconvenor for the
flow in the river is to be controlled and edge , the ghats and the related structures Brajbh11mi Chapter, /NTACH) .
the water edge to be maintained and could play a new and more integral role in For both projects, old photographs of the ghats art cre-
protected from vandalism. the regeneration of Braj culture . ❖ dited to Mukut and Vinod Sharma of Mathura. The
remaining blw and colour photographs to K T Ravin-
The proposed interventions at Keshi dran , Raje11dar Singh and An11radha Joshi.
and Pandawala Ghats are aimed at retaining The core team for Mathura included K T Ravindran The reports for both projects have also been translated
the sacred link between the Yamuna River (Coordinator) , G Shankar Narayan, H V Jyoti, Rajat into Hindi.
8nd Yrindavan town. Ray and Kira11 Kalamdani, supported by Vasanthi
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