Wild Hog Manual

Georgia Landowner’s Guide
to Wild Pig Management

Acknowledgements
Preparation of this field manual was funded in part through a
grant from the US Environmental Protection Agency to the
Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Environmental
Protection Division, under Provisions of Section 319(h) of the
Federal Water Pollution Control Act (Clean Water Act), as
amended. Contract number 751-130088.
This manual was prepared by:

Michael Foster and Michael T. Mengak
University of Georgia
Warnell School of Forestry and Natural Resources
Athens, GA 30677
The production of this manual was supervised by:

Cassie Renfrow and Lance Renfrow
River Valley Regional Commission
Environmental Planning Department
Columbus, GA 31902
The production of this manual was also made possible by contributions

from the following members of the Georgia Landowner’s Guide to Wild
Pig Management Committee: Georgia Department of Agriculture,
Georgia Department of Natural Resources, Georgia Farm Bureau,
Georgia Forestry Association, Georgia Forestry Commission, Georgia
Soil and Water Conservation Commission, Georgia Wildlife Federation,
Jones Ecological Research Center, Two Rivers Resource
Conservation and Development Council, University of Georgia, USDA
Forest Service, USDA National Resource Conservation Service, USDA
Wildlife Services, US Department of Defense, US Fish and Wildlife
Service, and US Forest Service.
March 2015

© Warnell School, UGA
All photos - unless otherwise noted - are protected by copyright
and are the property of the photographer.
i
Table of Contents
Section 1: Basic Pig Biology 1

Introduction 2
Factors for Success 2
Reproduction 3
Habitat 4
Diet 5
Mortality Rates 6
Human Dimension of Pig Management 7
Section 2: Management Techniques 11
Exclusion and Fencing 13
Hunting with Dogs 16
Trapping with Snares 17
Hunting and Shooting 18
Sport Hunting 19
Aerial Shooting 20
Night Shooting 21
Baiting and Shooting 26
Trapping 28
Scouting the Area 29
Baiting the Traps 31
Cage or Box Traps 33
Corral Traps 35
Door Design 37
Trigger Mechanisms 43
Drop Nets 46
Section 3: How-To Guide 51
Building Trap Doors 53
Building Rooter Doors 58
Building Traps 65
Box Traps 65
Steel Framed Cage Traps 68
Corral Traps 71
Permanent Corral Traps 73
Tips and Troubleshooting 74
Section 4: Disease Issues 75
Brucellosis 79
Pseudorabies 81
Trichinosis 83
Classical Swine Fever 84
Porcine Epidemic Diarrhea Virus 85
Other Biological Concerns 85
ii
Section 5: Legal Concerns 87
Hunting of Wild Pigs 89
Transportation of Wild Pigs 90
Trapping of Wild Pigs 91
Toxicants 91
Section 6: Other Considerations and Issues 93
Carcass Disposal 94
Contraception 96
Poisoning Research 97
References 99
iii
Section 1 – Basic Pig Biology
Section 1
Basic Pig Biology
1
Introduction
All wild pigs, wild boar, feral swine, and Eurasian

boar are members of the same biological species -
Sus scrofa. Pigs, or swine, were first introduced to
North America by Spanish explorers in the early 16th
century. Some escaped; some were released
intentionally. The actions of these explorers led to the
number of wild pigs now present in America.
Pigs were initially favored by early North American

settlers because of their lack of required care.
Settlers raised pigs with free-range practices for
centuries. In the early 1900s, the introduction of the
Eurasian species of boar for sport hunting resulted in
this group’s interbreeding with free-ranging domestic
pigs already present. Due to the cross breeding that
occurred and unique features of pig biology, the pig
population expanded considerably. This caused
immeasurable economic and ecologic damage
across the United States. As a result of the pig
population boom, free-ranging practices in this
country became illegal in the mid-20th century, with
the exception of a few parishes in Louisiana. Due to
the extent of interbreeding between these two
subspecies, the Eurasian boar and free-ranging
domestic pig are now considered by most experts to
be the same animal - the wild pig. Unclaimed free-
ranging populations of wild pigs quickly increased
and spread throughout the United States.
Factors for Success
Four biological factors can be attributed to the rapid
growth of wild pig populations:
 high reproductive potential,

 habitat generalization,
 wide range in diet, and
 low mortality rates.
2
Many sources of information on the biology of wild

pigs are available. This manual will only briefly review
the main factors believed to be responsible for rapidly
increasing wild pig populations.
Figure 1: Several wild pigs under a game feeder. Wild pigs come in a
variety of colors as a result of interbreeding.
Reproduction
Major contributing factors for the success of wild pigs
are short reproductive cycles and large litter sizes.
Since these animals descended from domestic stock,
they were selected for their high reproductive
potential. Wild pigs are the most fertile large mammal
in existence. They have a gestation period of 112-
115 days, or about 16 weeks. Females can begin
reproducing at six months of age. There have been
reported cases of sows reproducing as young as 4
months of age, but this can be considered rare. A
typical sow will give birth to two litters per year
consisting of 4 to 6 piglets per litter. Under the right
conditions, a sow may produce up to 13 piglets in
one litter.
Today’s wild pig populations are related to escaped

or intentionally released domesticated stock that was
originally bred for the purpose of commercial
production. While large litters were an ideal trait in a
domestic hog, this characteristic has persisted in feral
strains and is a major cofactor in the explosion of the
wild pig population. As a result of animal husbandry
3
practices over a period of many generations, wild

pigs are prolific breeders.
Figure 2: A sounder of wild pigs under a game feeder. A sounder often

consists of 2 to 3 adult females and their offspring.
Habitat
Another trait that has made wild pigs so successful is
the ability to utilize a variety of habitats. These
animals are highly adaptable and inhabit a variety of
habitats, including mountainous areas, forests, salt
and brackish swamps and marshes, old growth
pinelands, semi-arid brush habitats, as well as many
other habitat types. Research shows that pigs are
most consistently found in moist areas unless mast
(acorns and other nuts) is unavailable in the leaf litter,
in which case these animals will inhabit any available
habitat that has an accessible food source. They are
highly mobile and nomadic.
Since their introduction to North America, wild pigs

have colonized more than forty of the fifty states. Wild
pig populations are large and growing; their
populations are present at uncontrollable densities in
some areas, especially in the southeastern states.
Strong mid-western populations have also been
established in Kansas and Oklahoma. Populations of
wild pigs are also present at large numbers in
California, Hawaii, Puerto Rico, and the Virgin
Islands.
4
Like any successful invasive species, wild pigs are

very adaptable and non-specific in their habitat
requirements.
Figure 3: States that have reported the presence of wild pigs in 2014
(USDA APHIS Draft Environmental Impact Statement, 9 December
2014).
Diet
In addition to other factors, the wide-ranging diet of
wild pigs has helped make this species incredibly
adaptable. Wild pigs are opportunistic omnivores.
They will consume almost anything from agriculture
crops and mast crops, such as acorns and fruit, to
grub worms and dead animals, also known as
carrion. Though not considered active predators, they
will consume fawns, livestock, and the eggs of
ground nesting birds in addition to vegetation,
agricultural crops, and other food items.
Diet varies seasonally. A seasonal change in the

utilization of “above-ground” and “below-ground”
components of plants corresponds to plant availability
during different seasons. The roots of a vegetative
food source will often be consumed when the leafy
portion or fruits/nuts of the plant are no longer
available.
5
During mast years, acorns, beach nuts, pecans, and

soft fruit are consumed throughout the fall and winter.
In some cases, the roots of plants may be preferred;
examples include peanuts, potatoes, carrots, sweet
potatoes, and many other wild plant species.
Earthworms make up approximately fifty to ninety

percent of the carnivorous portion of a wild pig’s diet,
depending on availability and the region inhabited.
The amount of earthworms consumed by wild pigs
has been shown to decrease during the winter and
dryer months; accessing this food source in dry soils
proves difficult. Consumption of small mammals
tends to increase during the winter months due to a
lack of earthworms. Wild pigs will consume newborn
calves, kids, lambs, and fawns. They will also kill and
consume wounded animals in addition to carrion.
Mortality Rates
Typically, wild pigs travel in groups called sounders
consisting of two or three related adult females and
their offspring. Males, especially larger boars, are
often solitary. It is not uncommon for members of a
sounder to exhibit cooperative nursing, during which
piglets from all of the females will suckle from one
sow while the others stand watch for predators. This
group behavior can be a considered a contributing
factor to low mortality rates of the wild pig.
Figure 4: Solitary boar hog feeding on acorns.
6
Wild pigs are most susceptible to predation as

piglets, falling victim to alligators, black bears,
coyotes, and other predators. However, few piglets
are lost to predation due to the protection afforded to
them by the sounder. Beyond this early stage of life,
the only true predators that wild pigs face are the
humans that hunt them, trap them, and hit them with
automobiles.
Figure 5: A typical sounder group. 16 pigs are shown in this photo.
Human Dimension of Pig Management

The human dimension of wild pig management often
brings about mixed emotions. On one side of the
spectrum, there are those who whole-heartedly
promote the eradication of these creatures. These
people tend to be private landowners, farmers, and
ranchers who have experienced wild pig related
damage on their property. The University of Georgia
2012 Wild Pig Survey indicates that 90% of people
do not enjoy having wild hogs on their land.
(http://www.warnell.uga.edu/outreach/pubs/wildlife.php).
Additionally, 81% of those surveyed report that they
hunt pigs or allow pig hunting on their lands. The
sudden appearance of wild pigs in a given area is
often the direct result of the illegal translocation of
pigs by hunters or private hunting guides trying to
provide another species for hunters. Transporting
and releasing wild pigs is illegal in Georgia.
7
In the UGA Wild Pig Survey, 53% of respondents felt

that the increased wild pig populations in Georgia
were the result of illegal transport. Wild pigs are
capable of quickly establishing new populations and
causing damage, and illegal transport contributes to
these problems.
With their tough snouts and over-developed neck

muscles, wild pigs can be considered “nature’s
bulldozers.” The most common form of damage
caused by pigs is ground disruption as a result of
hunting for food. Destruction of crops, yards of
homeowners, and natural habitat is of concern.
Figure 6: Typical destruction to a wildlife food plot caused by wild pig

rooting. Damage of this magnitude can be created overnight.
Damage is attributed to the pigs’ persistent rooting

during their hunt for food. In the UGA Wild Pig
Survey, nearly 80% of respondents believe wild pigs
negatively affect whitetail deer and bobwhite quail
populations. Nearly 70% of respondents believe they
have a negative effect on wild turkeys. Destruction of
farm ponds and livestock watering holes is also
common, as these are used by wild pigs for
wallowing. Wild pigs also cause substantial damage
to livestock fencing and food plots.
Along with direct predation on young livestock, wild

pigs also have indirect effects on livestock. Wild pigs
are known to gorge themselves on feed, which not
only takes food from livestock, but could also damage
feeders and potentially spread disease. Destruction
8
of farm ponds and watering holes also affects

livestock. Additionally, wild pigs are known to
damage livestock fencing.
In addition to effects on livestock and agricultural

areas, wild pigs also damage natural environmental
areas and represent direct competition with other
wildlife for food sources and habitat. Other wildlife
such as deer, turkey, foxes, quail, raccoons,
squirrels, salamanders, small mammals, and
waterfowl may compete with feral hogs.
Wild pigs contribute to the erosion of stream banks,

forest floors, and road banks due to heavily traveled
trails and wallowing patterns. Other wild pig effects
include water quality degradation and damage to
trees and tree seedlings due to tusking and foraging,
which can lead to changes in vegetation community
structure. Wild pigs are well known for their ability to
quickly destroy a newly planted pine stand, especially
one of longleaf pines.
Due to their highly destructive nature and rapidly

increasing populations, wild pigs are gaining
increased attention from wildlife biologists, land
managers, and researchers across the country.
Complete eradication is probably impossible on the
mainland of the United States at this point in time. In
areas where pigs are established in isolated pockets
(such as on islands), local extermination may be
possible. The best approach is the prevention of
further spread. Future goals should include the
development of management targets for controlling
current populations and the prevention of further
range expansion or invasion of new areas.
When working to control wild pig populations, it is

essential to choose the most effective control
techniques possible. For some hunters, this may
involve a tradeoff between enjoyment and
effectiveness. The Management Techniques portion
of this manual, found in Section 2, discusses a
9
variety of control techniques and their effectiveness,

covering topics such as sport hunting, night shooting,
and trapping.
The most effective means of control is trapping,

which is covered in detail in Section 3. Trapping can
be difficult, costly, and time consuming. The most
effective trapping methods remove several hogs or,
ideally, whole sounders at one time. However, due to
the intelligence level of wild pigs, this means of
control, like all others, can become ineffective over
time.
Because the authors of and contributors to this

manual believe there exists a great deal of
misleading and inaccurate information about wild
pigs, this manual is intended to inform the reader
about the biology and ecology of wild pigs. This
manual will also instruct users about a variety of
proper techniques for successful wild pig
management or local eradication. The hope is that
this manual will refute or dispel the often widely
available yet inaccurate information about wild pigs.
The purpose of this manual is to explain the

biology of wild pigs and to provide management
techniques that can be used for the control of
wild pig populations and for mitigation of the
ongoing problems they cause.
10
Section 2 – Management Techniques
Section 2
Management Techniques
11
There are a variety of management tools that can be

employed to control wild pig populations including
exclusion fences, hunting with dogs, trapping with
snares, still hunting or shooting, baiting and shooting,
and a wide variety of trapping methods. A
combination of methods will likely give the best
control results. For example, hunting with dogs may
be effective, after other lethal control methods have
been applied. This section will cover some positives
and negatives, along with the effectiveness, of each
technique.
12
Exclusion and Fencing

Reproductive potential of wild pigs can be increased
when they have access to supplemental feed.
Because of this, wild pigs should be excluded from
deer feeders, which is relatively easy to do with a
solid fence. Deer can easily jump over a three foot
tall fence to access the feeder. Money will be saved
by feeding only deer, as opposed to feeding the pigs
as well. Furthermore, limiting access to an easily
obtained food supply could aid in the reduction of the
reproductive capacity of the pigs.
Exclusion of wild pigs typically involves fencing,

which can be highly effective but very expensive.
Many fence materials are available, but common
designs include wire mesh, electric strand, or a
combination of the two. Multiple fence designs have
been used to aid in exclusion. Generally, wire mesh
is recommended only for small areas like flower
gardens, small crop fields, game feeders, and
household yards. Before employing a fence, it is
important to conduct a cost-benefit analysis to
determine if protection of the product is worth the
cost of building a fence. There are several styles of
fencing available, and many are considered effective
in excluding pigs; however, few designs will exclude
their invasion completely.
Figure 7: An example of a non-electric wild pig exclusion fence built by

50yearfence.com.
13
Non-electric fences should be constructed using net

wire or diamond mesh, also known as chain link, with
a minimum of 4 inch spacing. Some managers
recommend a minimum of 6 inch spacing; however,
smaller mesh size will help prevent piglets from
squeezing through the openings.
When constructing a wire mesh fence, consider the
following:
 Increasing the spacing of wire mesh with height is
generally effective at preventing piglets from
entering the area. Start with 2 inch spacing near
the bottom and increase to larger spacing until
about 2 feet from the ground.
 Use either pressure treated 4 x 4 inch posts, locust
posts, or steel T-posts every 10-12 feet.
 Posts should be a minimum of 6 feet tall and a
minimum of 20 inches below the ground.
 The mesh should be stretched tight enough to
eliminate sagging; this allows for flexibility in case a
wild pig charges the fence.
 Fence height can be between 30-36 inches;
generally, taller is better.
 To prevent persistent wild pigs from burrowing
under the fence, bury the bottom of the wire 12
inches below ground surface.
 Burrowing can also be prevented by adding an
electric strand 8-12 inches off the ground along the
outside of the fence.
 As with all wire mesh wildlife exclusion fences, the
fence must be tight to the ground.
 Pay close attention to changes in topography.
 Regular maintenance to remove fallen trees or
limbs is required.
14
Stranded wire fences used in conjunction with electric

fence chargers are less effective than mesh wire
fences but are cheaper to construct. A Texas study
found that when compared to a 1-strand fence, a 3-
strand electric fence reduced wild pig invasion by fifty
percent.
When constructing an electric fence, consider the
following:
 Use steel T-posts or locust posts.
 Plastic insulators, either nail-on or snap-on, and a
minimum of 14 gauge galvanized steel wire are
required. (NOTE: The larger the fenced area, the
larger the wire gauge needs to be to account for
voltage drop—either a 12 or a 10 gauge.)
 A high output fence charger and an 8 foot ground
rod and clamp are needed.
 The bottom strand should be a maximum of 8
inches off the ground.
 There should be a 12 inch spread between strands
for a three wire system and an 18 inch spread for a
two wire system.
Stranded wire fences are cheaper to construct than

mesh wire but tend to be more labor intensive in the
long run; to prevent vegetation from growing on and
potentially grounding out the fence, regular
maintenance is necessary. For more detailed
information on fencing, consult other publications.
Figure 8: A multi-purpose electric fence designed to exclude both wild

pigs and whitetail deer. Image from the Georgia Peanut Commission.
15
Hunting with Dogs

Using dogs may improve the number of wild pigs
taken from an individual property. This method of
hunting involves a team of dogs, including bay dogs,
scent trailers, and catch dogs.
Hunters, usually on horseback or in an all-terrain

vehicle, supervise the hunt. Typically, scent trailers
are a hound breed; these dogs have increased sense
of smells and can follow scents until the pig is
located. Most often, catch dogs are a boxer breed. To
prevent injury, catch dogs should be cloaked in a
thick leather or Kevlar vest.
Dog hunting can greatly increase the chances of

locating groups of wild pigs. However, this method
can be expensive due to the initial cost of dogs, as
well as veterinary expenses. Injuries can be caused
by wild pigs; goring and biting are common.
Additionally, there is the possibility of spreading
infectious diseases. Usually only one wild pig is
captured so this method is time intensive and not
effective in controlling large populations or covering
large areas.
Figure 9: Catch dogs taking down a wild pig. The lead dog most often
controls the pig by grabbing it by the ear and pulling its head down
while the other dogs hobble the animal by grabbing its legs
(easttexasdoghoggers.com).
16
Trapping with Snares

WARNING: In many states, like Georgia, the use of
snares to capture wild pigs is illegal. In Georgia,
snares can be set within 10 feet of water for beaver
trapping only.
Advantages of using snares for pigs include:

 Low cost
 No pre-baiting required
 Effectiveness of catching trap-shy wild pigs
 Quick set-up time
Disadvantages of using snares for pigs include:

 Can only capture single pig at a time
 Non-target species issues – can be partially
avoided by using a deer stop device
 Possibility of large wild pigs breaking snares
Figure 10: A snare set for wild pigs (hotwoods.com). Using snares to
capture wild pigs is illegal in Georgia.
In areas where snares are legal, these are usually

constructed out of a 3/16” steel cable with a sliding
lock mechanism allowing the loop to close but not
open easily once closed. Using a swivel at the end of
the snare reduces the chance of a captured wild pig
breaking the cable. Ends of snares are attached to
immovable objects, such as trees or fence posts.
17
Hunting and Shooting

Most states have very liberal regulations for hunting
wild pigs on private property, allowing harvest to
occur year-round. Hunting and shooting wild pigs can
be done in many different ways, including methods
like traditional still hunting, aerial shooting, or night
shooting. Each of these methods has advantages
and disadvantages and requires excellent
marksmanship for quick, humane kills.
Whenever using shooting as a means of control,
consider the following:
 Head shots provide the quickest death and
minimize the need for tracking.
 Target the adults of a sounder first. If an older pig
falls in its tracks, most of the time younger
individuals will not break and run.
 Be sure to follow state game laws whenever using
any of these methods.
Figure 11: Wild pigs under a mineral block near a tree stand.
18
Sport Hunting
Sport hunting is commonly used in many areas
across the United States as a method to reduce wild
pig populations. For many farmers, ranchers, and
private land owners, sport hunting provides extra
revenue in the form of lease fees. Hunters often use
archery equipment, high powered rifles (both semi-
automatic and bolt action), or shotguns loaded with
buckshot. This control method can be exciting but is
not effective because few pigs are taken at one time.
Hunting as a management method can be useful in

remote areas, but this approach is often difficult to
employ in urban and suburban areas. Hunters
typically target adult wild pigs; the removal of these
individuals alone is typically not enough to reduce pig
densities. Additionally, patterns of learned behavior
exhibited by wild pigs suggest that, if under heavy
hunting pressure, they will often become nocturnal
and learn to avoid humans altogether.
To encourage the availability of hunting land, Georgia

has enacted two liability laws to protect landowners
who allow access to their land for hunting. The
following is a passage taken from the 2013-2014
hunting regulations by the Georgia Wildlife
Resources Division.
To encourage landowners to make their lands available for
public recreational purposes, including hunting and fishing,
Georgia law (OCGA 51-3-20 through 51-3-26) explicitly
shields landowners from civil liability for injuries to persons
who use their land for recreational purposes without charge
unless the landowner willfully or maliciously fails to guard
against or warn of a dangerous condition, use, structure, or
activity. Landowners will not be liable unless they violate this
standard of care. Georgia Courts have interpreted this
reasonable standard of care as the “duty of slight care” which
is lower than that of ordinary care.
Georgia law (OCGA 27-3-1) further extends this same

protection to landowners, lessees of land, or lessees of
hunting or fishing rights who have permission to hunt or fish
on their property with or without charge.
19
Aerial Shooting
Aerial shooting, which is often used in Texas and
other open areas of the western United States, has
very limited use in the forested regions typical of
Georgia. However, this control technique has recently
been used on a few barrier islands.
Figure 12: Shooting pigs from a helicopter with a semi-automatic rifle in

the open range lands of Texas and other Western states. Generally,
this is not considered effective in Georgia (americanhunter.org).
Aerial shooting most often employs the use of a

helicopter and semi-automatic rifles. Rarely are fixed
wing aircrafts used. This method is often effective in
remote areas with short vegetation where the
conditions include high visibility, fairly smooth
topography, and mild weather patterns. In areas with
high wild pig densities, it can be highly effective. The
high cost of the aircraft is often negated due to the
high success rates associated with this type of
control.
One study employed aerial shooting over a five day

period in Australia and reduced wild the pig
populations by 80 percent. Aerial shooting does
require trained professionals to implement, may
require special licenses and permits, and cannot be
used in forested or residential areas. Much like
traditional hunting methods, aerial shooting can
promote learned behavior in wild pigs, causing them
to avoid helicopters and become nocturnal.
20
Night Shooting
Should wild pigs become nocturnal, traditional
hunting and aerial shooting become less effective
management tools. At this point, night shooting is
often attempted. Night shooting employs the use of
bait and specialized equipment such as spot lights,
motion detecting floodlights, night vision goggles and
scopes, and sound suppressed weapons.
When considering the use of night shooting as a
means of wild pig control, consider the following:
 Check state and local regulations on what
equipment or lights can and cannot be used.
 Suppressed weapons require special permitting,
and other equipment restrictions may apply.
 Several private companies offer night hunting
opportunities. However, these can cost up to
$1,000 per hunter per night and generally result in
the removal of only a few animals.
 Night hunting may include the use of thermal
imaging optics and high-capacity magazines on
semi-automatic rifles.
 Using bait typically increases rates of success.
Spotlighting
The oldest means of night shooting utilizes spotlights
with traditional rifles and scopes. Typically, spotlights
of 1-5 million candlepower (or 900-1,000 lumens) are
used. These lights are fairly inexpensive, ranging
between $30 for basic hand-held styles and $150 for
scope-mounted versions. While spotlight technology
has improved with the development of LED bulbs,
these lights tend to have a focused beam, which only
illuminates one or two animals at a time. Plus, the
constant turning on and off could spook pigs and
deter them from coming back to bait set out by
shooters.
21
In Georgia, a light must be carried by or attached to a

belt system or hat of the hunter. In Georgia, there
are no voltage restrictions on lights used for night
hunting of wild pigs.
Solar Powered Motion Detection Floodlights

An alternative to traditional spotlights are solar
powered motion detection floodlights, which range in
cost from $50-150 depending on brand and lumen
output. Most lights operate from a solar panel that
charges a 6 volt battery during the day and has
several settings that allow the bulb to stay on for 1, 3,
or 5 minutes.
Solar powered motion detection lights can be

mounted on a 4 x 4 inch pressure treated post about
10-12 feet tall or to a tree with the light and motion
detector facing downward on bait. The beam created
by the flood head should be about 10-15 feet in
diameter, depending on the height of the fixture.
During the pre-baiting period, the light can be set for
five minute intervals to allow wild pigs to become
accustomed to it.
Figure13: Solar powered flood lights with a motion detector mounted to

a tree (survival-gear-guide.com).
22
How to Set Up a Floodlight:

 Select an area where signs of pigs are clear.
 If no suitable trees are available, purchase a 16
foot long 4 x 4 inch pressure treated post.
 Purchase a solar powered floodlight from your
local home improvement store.
 Open the light and connect the red wire to the
positive terminal on the battery and the black
wire to the negative terminal.
 Mount the light 1-3 feet from the top of the post
using the mounting screws provided.
 Mount the solar panel on the opposite side of the
pole from the light and plug the cord into the
provided socket on the light.
 The solar panel must face south or southwest
and have a clear view of the sky. Trim branches
as necessary.
 The flood head should face the ground.
 Turn the dial on the bottom of the light to 5
minutes to set duration.
 Using a set of post-hole diggers, dig a hole 3 feet
deep and slide the post into the hole.
 Pack dirt tightly around the post.
 Pour bait where the light will hit it directly.
(See Page 24-25 for information on baiting.)
Figure 14: An example of an adjustment dial on the bottom of a solar

floodlight. Photo from dealaday.co.nz.
23
Night Vision Technology

Spotlights and motion detecting floodlights are fairly
low tech, inexpensive, and often limited to baited
areas. Recently, night vision goggles and scopes
have made their way onto the public market after
being used primarily for military operations.
While this technology works best with bait, it can be

used to eradicate an entire sounder feeding in open
terrain. Night vision technology allows shooters to get
fairly close to a group of pigs using the dark of night
to their advantage. However, night vision optics tend
to be fairly expensive, ranging in price from $300-
5,000. The following two types of night vision optics
are commonly used for pig control: near-infrared light
and thermal imaging.
Near-infrared Light Imaging: This technology, which

has been on the public market longer than thermal
imaging, involves the collection and concentration of
light, including a portion of the infrared spectrum
invisible to the human eye. Incoming light particles hit
a photoelectric plate inside the device, causing the
release of electrons. Following a series of reactions,
freed electrons strike a phosphor screen, creating a
reaction that makes light visible to the human eye.
Figure 15: Infrared scope image of a wild pig.
24
Most people identify near-infrared light technology by

the characteristic green images produced in the
eyepiece. Early models made for public use often
produced very blurred and unclear images. Today’s
models can provide very clear images, but the initial
costs for this type of technology can still be as high
as $200 or more, even for a low resolution scope.
Thermal Imaging: With the simplest models starting

around $2,000, this very expensive technology
creates images from heat, rather than light. All
objects in the environment have a certain
temperature and radiate waves of energy known as
infrared radiation. Hot objects produce more energy
than cold objects. Heat signatures of warm bodied
animals appear as white images in the scope
because they radiate more heat than their cold
backgrounds. Because the equipment works by
capturing heat energy, no light source is required to
operate the device.
The best models on today’s market can detect heat

sources from a half mile away, making it possible for
a far-away shooter to kill a pig in an open space.
However, due to the high cost of this type of
equipment, it is not cost-effective for the average
landowner to use.
Figure16: Actual thermal image of a wild pig.
25
Baiting and Shooting

Typically, using bait for pig control by means of
shooting begins with a pre-baiting period. This period
should last a minimum of three days and occur in an
area where signs of pigs are prevalent. Pre-baiting,
or the act of presenting bait in an area before actual
hunting efforts take place, can lead to more
successful control measures. Following the pre-
baiting period, shooting over bait can be done during
the day or at night from a tree stand or on the ground
from a distance. Longer pre-baiting periods, like
those lasting up to a week, tend to be more effective
than shorter periods. Pre-baiting is legal for hunting
wild pigs in Georgia, and duration should depend on
the type of control method being utilized. Check
regulations for specific details.
Bait of choice should be placed in one large single

pile. This area should be checked daily, and anyone
visiting the area should wear rubber boots to reduce
human scent. Place your bait of choice in one large
pile. Replenish the bait as needed for a minimum of
three days.
Baiting is used to increase success with both still

hunting and night shooting efforts. While it is not
required for either, baiting creates a central location
for pigs to gather and allows shooters to focus on one
area. Since wild pigs are omnivorous, a variety of
foods can be used as bait, including pelletized pig
feed, rotten produce, and soured corn. Whole corn
and pelletized baits can be used in broadcast game
feeders or in gravity feeders.
26
Figure 17: Soured corn can be used as bait for wild pigs. Spreading the
soured corn on the ground allows for the aroma to be carried by the
wind. Normal feed corn can be used inside of a game feeder for
prolonged attraction.
How to make soured corn:

 Use a 50 pound bag of whole kernel corn.
 Fill a 5 gallon bucket half full of corn.
 Add two cups of sugar or molasses.
 Add two or three cans of inexpensive beer.
 Fill the bucket with water so that the level is 2-3
inches above the corn.
 Stir well using a stick.
 Cover with lid.
 Place in a sunny area for 3-5 days.
 Check daily adding water as needed.
NOTE: Some individuals add 1-2 packages of gelatin

powder or fruit jelly. Some trappers claim that
strawberry jelly or gelatin powder increases bait
acceptance by wild pigs. No study known to the
writers supports or denies this claim. Soured corn
recipes tend to reflect individual preference.
27
Trapping
Regardless of the type of trap used, successful
trapping requires a period of pre-baiting, and baiting
must continue as the trap is being set up. Because
wild pigs are such opportunistic feeders, a variety of
food items can be used to bait traps. However, it is
important to select bait that will minimize the chances
of impacting non-target species, or those species not
meant to be captured.
Not only is trapping the most popular method of

removing wild pigs, it is also the most successful at
reducing densities. Because multiple wild pigs can be
removed at one time, some trapping techniques
require significantly less effort and have better results
than most other control strategies.
Before using trapping as a method of control consult
state trapping regulations. Consider the following:
 Generally, trapping is legal in Georgia.
 Snaring wild pigs is illegal in Georgia.
 When using trapping as a control strategy, be sure
to check traps daily. This is required by most state
trapping regulations, and it reduces the risk of
damage to the trap by caught pigs.
If traps are set up improperly, such as incorrect

trigger placement, escaped pigs will become trap-shy
and will not enter the trap again. Wild pigs are
extremely intelligent animals; any mistakes made in
the capturing efforts that allow their escape will result
in the avoidance of traps in future attempts. Prior to
setting traps, it is important to find the locations that
will provide the highest rate of success. Once a
proper location is established, pre-baiting should
occur before trap construction and/or implementation.
28
Scouting the Area

On large properties, it may be prudent to set up
multiple traps. When scouting any tract of land, look
for signs of wild pig presence. Evidence of recent
rooting, wallows, mud-rubs on trees, heavily used
trails, and an abundance of pig tracks could suggest
a population present in the area. Special attention
should be placed along river and creek bottoms, as
well as in swamps and marshes, especially during
the summer months. Knowing the difference between
pig tracks and the tracks of other animals will help in
determining where to place traps. Once an area with
ample pig activity has been located, start pre-baiting
the site.
Figure 18: An example of a wild pig wallowing.
29
Figure 19a: Deer track. Image from Texas Parks & Wildlife.
Figure 19b: Comparison of tracks. Image from Iowa State Extension.
Figure 19c: Comparison of deer and wild pig tracks. Image from
Indiana Wildlife.
30
Baiting the Traps

Regardless of the type of trap used, pre-baiting is
required for effective trapping control measures.
When baiting traps, consider the following:
 Soured grain has the advantage of reducing the
risk of catching non-target species.
 The pre-baiting period for trapping will last much
longer than the pre-baiting time for shooting and
duration should depend on trap type.
 Usually, pre-baiting for a week or longer prior to
placement of the trap will allow the pig family
group, or sounder, to become accustomed to
feeding in the area. This will help ensure their
return to the trap grounds.
 Bait can be poured directly on the ground or into a
cut out barrel, a broadcast feeder, or a pipe feeder.
 Place the bait as far to the back of the trap and
away from the door as possible. This will allow the
greatest number of wild pigs to enter the trap.
 A small line of bait can be placed near the door and
trailed to a larger bait pile at the back of the trap.
 At the very least, the pre-baiting period should last
three days.
 For the best success rates, pre-bait for two weeks
prior to setting the trap door.
 During pre-baiting, keep the trap door tied open so
that pigs can go in and out of the trap freely.
 A trail camera can also be used and checked daily
to determine how many pigs are coming to the trap
and whether or not they are entering it.
31
Figure 20: Texas A&M AgriLife Extension Agent pre-baiting a semi-

permanent coral trap.
Trapping typically utilizes the following three trap

styles: portable, semi-permanent, and permanent.
However, there has also been experimentation with
drop nets to capture wild pigs. Portable traps are
typically box or cage traps. Corral trap types are
considered semi-permanent and permanent traps.
These types, along with trap-door designs, will be
covered in the remainder of this section.
32
Cage or Box Traps

These traps have the advantage of being portable
and can easily be moved to different locations on a
property.
Figure 21: Wooden box trap constructed out of decking boards and
pressure treated lumber with a wood drop door.
Cage or box traps are most commonly used by

landowners or individuals attempting to capture only
a few wild pigs. Styles vary; traps of this type can be
constructed entirely from wood, consist of a wood
frame with heavy gauge wire livestock panels, or
have a steel frame with livestock panels welded to
the frame.
When constructing a Cage or Box Trap, consider the
following:
 The panels of an all wood box trap can be built in a
shop and transported to the trap site for assembly.
This allows for a one-person set up.
 Typically, traps work best with no bottom; pigs will
avoid standing on wire.
 Be sure the bottom edges of the side rails are flush
against the ground. This will prevent wild pigs from
pushing their snouts underneath it.
 For easy transport, wooden box traps should be the
size of the bed of a pick-up truck (8 feet long and 4
feet wide) and about 5 feet tall with an open top.
33
 If you choose to build a trap with a closed top, it

should only be 4 feet tall. Side boards should be
narrowly spaced at the bottom (2 inches apart) and
can be spaced farther near the top (6-7 inches).
 Drive steel T-posts at the corners of the trap and
wire the trap to them with bailing wire to prevent
wild pigs from lifting the edge of the trap and
escaping.
Steel-framed cage traps are often available for

commercial sale and also come in circular designs.
Circular models tend to be the strongest because
they lack corners, which are weak points. If using a
wire box trap, the bottom wires must be covered with
dirt. Pigs will avoid standing on wire.
Figure 22: Steel framed cage trap. These can be circular or shaped like
the one in this photo.
34
Corral Traps
Corral traps have proven to be the most successful
style of trap for catching entire sounder groups.
However, the success is heavily determined by the
style of door. Much of the corral design’s success can
be attributed to openness of the trap. When wild pigs
can see a great deal of open space within a trap, they
are more likely to enter it. Some traps can be
disassembled and moved from one location to
another; these are considered semi-permanent.
When constructing a Corral Trap, consider the

following:
 Use 16 x 5 foot utility panels in a circular design or
tear drop design.
 3-4 cattle gates can be inverted for a similar
design. Gates should be 12-16 feet in length. Line
the inside of the trap with 4 x 4 inch woven wire
(NOTE: To prevent escape, cover hard corners
with woven wire.)
 Utility panels should be supported by steel T-posts
where the panels overlap and every 4-5 feet apart
thereafter; use T-posts to mark where the door will
be as well.
 A diameter size of 16-20 feet is most common for
semi-permanent corrals.
Figure 23: A female wild pig inside of a corral trap. This is a unique trap
set up in Baker County, Georgia. It is a smaller corral trap set up inside
of a larger one. The sow is left inside to draw in other wild pigs. Photo
taken by Ashley Warren.
35
Permanent corral traps are similar to semi-permanent

traps, but they tend to be larger in size, up to 35 feet
in diameter. They also use 8 foot landscaping timbers
or pressure treated 4 x 4 inch posts instead of steel
T-posts to support the utility panels or chain link
fencing. These posts can be moved, but setting up
and breaking down can be labor intensive.
Due to their large size, permanent corrals can utilize

a door on both ends, allowing pigs to enter from two
directions. Because this set-up is permanent, be sure
to choose a location with ample evidence of pig
activity and where the trap will not interfere with
future land use. Permanent traps are rarely
recommended because they lack versatility and
adaptability.
Figure 24: Permanent trap with cattle panels and treated posts.
Figure 25: Pre-baited circular corral trap constructed with utility panels
and T-posts.
36
Door Design
Single Catch Doors
Once the trigger of a single catch door has been
tripped, no more pigs can enter the trap. Most single
catch doors use a guillotine or drop door to close the
trap. A sliding door can also be used, but this type is
not as common. The lower channel in which the door
slides often fills up with dirt and debris, preventing the
door from closing all the way. This design is similar to
a guillotine gate, but instead utilizes heavy-duty
springs to draw the door shut from the side rather
than the door falling form the top.
When constructing a Single Catch Door, consider the

following:
 Most guillotine gates are constructed of wood,
using 2 x 4 foot channel frame and ¾ inch plywood
for the actual door.
 The frame is 6 feet tall and has a pulley mounted
on an eye bolt on the top cross brace.
 A draw loop made of wire is mounted to the bottom
of the door so that a rope can be used to hold the
door up once the trap is set.
 A steel frame barred door constructed out of 1 inch
square tubing can be used for guillotine doors.
Doors are usually 4 feet high by 3 feet wide and
trigger off of a root stick or trip wire.
Figure 26: An example of a common wooden guillotine gate. Photo

taken by M.T. Mengak.
37
Most trap and door combinations are limited in the

number of pigs that can be trapped during any given
event. Proper pre-baiting and baiting, as well as
strategic trap and trigger mechanism placement, are
required for the majority of the sounder to enter a trap
before its door falls. When using a drop door or
guillotine gate design, place most of the bait away
from the trigger mechanism. Too much bait around
the trigger may cause a pig to spring the trap before
any other pigs have had a chance to enter.
Several commercial companies have taken this door

design to new levels. Some companies include:
 Jager Pro Hog Control Systems, Columbus,

GA (M.I.N.E. System);
 Tusk Innovations, Conway, AR; and
 Wireless Traps, Dallas, TX
These companies market wireless door trigger

mechanisms that can be remotely activated from a
computer or cell phone. This can be a major
advantage over older systems of manual release
from a hunting blind or a trip mechanism activated by
the pigs. The remote system essentially eliminates
the need for regular trap checks. However, state
regulations may still require daily trap checks. The
primary disadvantages to remote control door
systems are cost and the need for a strong cellular
signal. Optional equipment includes an automatic
corn feeder and corn or other bait.
38
Figure 27: Remote controlled door design triggered by a cellular signal.
Table 1: Estimated costs for 30 foot diameter wild pig corral with
remote activation camera system. Prices from July 2014.
Unit Quantity
Equipment
Cost
Door/Gate $500 1-2
Panels (16 foot long) $23 5
T-Posts, heavy duty (7 foot long), 4 foot

$6 21
spacing
Camera $600 1
Antenna $275 1
Cellular service (monthly fee) $50 1
Activation fee $30 1
Accessories (cable lock, panel wires, etc.) $100 1
Total $1,900
39
Multiple Catch Doors

These doors allow pigs to continue entering the trap
after the trigger has been tripped. The most common
designs of this type are saloon doors, rooter doors,
and swing doors.
Saloon Doors use two doors that swing away from

one another when open and utilize two heavy springs
to pull the doors closed.
When constructing Saloon Doors, consider the
following:
 Each door, measuring 15 inches wide and 4 feet
tall, is built from 1 inch square tube steel and
barred like jail cell doors.
 The doors are mounted to the inside a 4 feet tall by
31 inch wide frame. The frame is constructed out of
2 inch angle iron using 3 x 3 inch stainless steel
butt hinges, ¼ inch thick.
Figure 28: Saloon style doors set up on a corral trap.
40
Rooter doors are often used on multiple catch pig

traps. There are two main styles of rooter doors: the
three paneled gate and eight fingered gate.
Three Paneled Gates have three barred panels that

can be raised individually. The three separate panels
allow wild pigs to push the doors open. There is
some speculation of escape with this design;
however, many people still use this door with some
limited success.
Figure 29: An example of a three paneled rooter door.
When constructing a Three Paneled Gate, consider

the following:
 The panels are built out of 1 inch tube steel and
are welded to two butt hinges.
 Hinges are either welded or bolted to a steel
frame made of 2 inch angle steel.
 Panels are 36 inches tall and 12 inches wide and
fit inside of a 38 x 38 inch frame.
 The frame is normally extended above the panels
and is fitted with a wire panel to prevent wild pigs
from climbing over the gate.
 During pre-baiting, the doors are propped open
using two small sections of rebar, which are tied
off to a trip wire once the trap is ready to be set.
41
Eight Fingered Gates have eight bars that rise

individually. This design allows smaller pigs to easily
raise the gate and open the trap.
When constructing an Eight Fingered Gate, consider
the following:
 Bars are constructed out of ¾ inch rebar, are 37
inches long and are spaced 3 inches apart.
 The inside of the frame is 30 inches wide by 36
inches tall and is constructed out of 1 ¾ inch ridged
steel pipe. This can be found at any electrical
supply or home improvement store.
 Each stem of rebar is welded to the center of a
piece of 2 inch ridged pipe cut 3 inches long. These
pieces are slid over the 1¾ inch pipe that is used
for the top of the frame, creating the hinge.
 At the bottom of the frame, 2 ¾ inch segments of
rebar are welded between each bar to provide a
resting location once the gate has closed This will
keep wild pigs from spreading the bars apart.
Figure 30: Eight fingered rooter door built by Dakota and Michael
Foster.
Both of these rooter door designs reduce the chance

of a trapped pig escaping as other pigs enter the trap.
42
Trigger Mechanisms
Root sticks and trip wires are the two main styles of
trigger mechanisms used for trapping wild pigs. Both
styles are effective; however, trip wires are generally
more effective with saloon and rooter doors due to
the amount of pressure required to pull the props. In
addition to root sticks and trip wires, the M.I.N.E.
system mentioned earlier is also available.
Root sticks are the easiest trigger mechanisms to
construct. Only two pieces of rebar about 12 inches
long, a piece of rope, and a stick are needed.
When using a Root Stick trigger, consider the
following:
 Rebar should be driven into ground at the far back
of the trap at a 45 angle about 12 inches apart.
 Tie one end of the rope around the draw loop on
the door and route the other end through the pulley
at the top of the frame.
 Tie the free end of the rope to the middle of the
stick and pull the draw rope toward the back of the
trap. Place the stick behind the rebar.
 Rooting stick should be placed near the back of the
trap so as to allow several pigs to enter the trap
before the door is tripped.
 Bait should be spread from the middle of the trap to
the back so that several pigs can enter and begin
feeding. Place a small amount of feed near the root
stick.
Figure 31: A root stick trigger.
43
Trip wires are lines or wires that are strung across a

corner of the trap, routed around one of the trap’s
sides, and tied to the triggering device on the trap
door. Trip wires should be strung at the back of the
trap at a minimum of 12 inches off of the ground. If
the wire is tied lower than this, smaller pigs may trip
the door before adults can center, or it could be
tripped by non-target species like raccoons or
opossums. Trip wire triggers work because of
pressure; the amount of force required to pull the pin,
hook, or prop stick can be adjusted by tightening or
loosening the line.
When using a Trip Wire, consider the following:
 Route the rope through the pulley at the top of
the door frame.
 Extend the rope to the top pulley mounted at the
back or far side of the trap.
 Route the rope through the lower pulley at the
back of the trap.
 Tie the end of the rope to one side of a marine
snap shackle.
 Using a monofilament line, or fishing line, tie one
end to the other side of the sailing clip.
 Stretch the monofilament line out and tie the
other end to a stake driven into the ground 4-5
feet from the edge of the trap.
Figure 32: A marine snap shackle can be used with a trip wire.
44
A marine snap shackle can be purchased at any

boating supply store. It has a fixed steel loop and a
break-away steel loop that pulls apart once a certain
amount of pressure is placed on it. Use a shackle
with a 50-75 pound breaking load. The monofilament
line is tied to the break-away loop when the trigger
mechanism is set up.
Figure 33: A diagram on how to set up a trip wire on a rooter door.
The M.I.N.E system utilizes a guillotine door that is

triggered remotely via computer or cell phone. This
system incorporates a camera with a transmitter.
Whenever the camera senses motion in front of it,
live video or a picture is taken and sent to the
owner’s remote device. At this point, the owner can
decide whether or not to send a signal that will close
the gate. Waiting until an appropriate number of pigs
are inside the trap is vital to trapping success.
Figure 34: Jager Pro remote trigger control box.
45
Drop Nets
The use of drop nets is a relatively new method of
capturing wild pigs. Traditionally, this method has
been used for capturing wild turkeys, prairie
chickens, and whitetail deer. It has since been
modified to capture entire sounders of wild pigs.
Recent studies at the Samuel Roberts Noble
Foundation in Oklahoma have documented success
in with this method. Success has been attributed to
the reduction of animal fear. Prior to capture, pigs do
not associate the overhead net canopy of with
danger.
When using a Drop Net, consider the following:
 A 60 x 60 foot net with 4 inch mesh is suspended
above the ground using light weight steel tubing at
each corner and one in the center.
 The corner posts are 10-12 feet tall, and the center
pole is 12-15 feet tall.
 Steel chains are stretched from the top of each
pole and anchored to the ground using ¾ inch steel
rebar to provide support for each corner post.
 Each of the corner posts have a winch located in
the center and pulley at the top.
 A steel cable is passed through the pulley to the
winch; this mechanism is used to pull the corners
and center of the net off the ground.
 A rope is tied to each corner of the net and fixed to
the end of each of the steel cables.
 Each rope can be rigged with a blasting cap that
when detonated cuts the cord in half, allowing the
net to fall.
 Either 16 or 18 guage thermostat wire can be used
to carry the charge needed to detonate the blasting
caps. Wire should be run up each pole so that
blasting caps are detonated simultaneously.
 A junction also needs to be made at the ground
end of each wire, and another wire should be run
back to the detonator.
46
Figure 35: Wild pigs under a drop net at the Noble Foundations
research site in Oklahoma County, Texas.
Newer, high-tech trigger mechanisms utilize magnets

to release the nets; however, they tend to be more
expensive than those that use blasting caps.As with
other methods of trapping, pre-baiting must occur
prior to setting up the drop net. Using soured corn
during the pre-baiting period will aid in reducing the
chances of non-target species utilizing the area.
Using drop nets offers the advantage of capturing an
entire sounder quickly. However, drop nets require
human presence at the site to trigger the net to fall. In
addition to this, trapped pigs must be dispatched
immediately once captured to avoid damage to the
net and the potential escape.
Figure 36: A diagram on the set up of the aluminum or steel poles used
for a drop net with a simple hook and ring trigger mechanism.
47
Figure 37: Wild pigs under a drop net in Smokey Mountain National
Park.
Table 2: A list of the material costs for a drop net.

Item Qty Price Total Vendor
40' x 40' Net
(21 Guage, 1 $231.78 $231.78 www.custom
4") netting.com
Aluminum
Posts Local
6 $10.47 $62.82
(5' post, 3' Hardware
overhang) Store
Panel Local
Clamps 6 $4.98 $29.88 Hardware
(2/pk) Store
Tytan Soft
Tie $17.50/ Local
2 $35.00
Rope (Top 100' Hardware
Hang) Store
Vertical Haul Local
$9.47/
Rope (100', 1 $9.47 Hardware
100'
3/8") Store
Local
2" Welded
6 $0.85 $5.10 Hardware
Rings
Store
Local
Pulley (3/8") 1 $6.05 $6.05 Hardware
Store
Local
Quicklinks 6 $1.15 $6.90 Hardware
Store
Quick Local
Release 1 $2.85 $2.85 Hardware
Clevis Hook Store
Total Cost $389.85
48
Another trigger mechanism used is simply a hook

through a metal ring, which releases when another
rope is pulled. The rings are attached to the net
corners. When the rope is pulled, the hook
mechanism swivels up, causing the net to fall. The
correct set up of this type can be seen on the right
side of Figure 36.
49
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50
Section 3 – How-To Guide
Section 3
How-To Guide
51
This section will review and discuss the many styles

of traps and trap doors commonly used in wild pig
control or management. There are many designs
each with advantages and disadvantages. Users
should determine expectations, specifically project
size. Large-scale eradication will require a different
approach than the removal of just a few problem
pigs. This section will review traps and doors
previously discussed and will give further instruction
on construction.
This section has been formatted for easier listing and

contains some abbreviations for building material
dimensions.
52
Building Trap Doors
Wood Guillotine Door

The following materials are needed to build a wood
guillotine door:
 (4) pressure-treated 2” x 4” boards, 12 foot
 (1) 4’ x 4’ piece of ¾” pressure treated plywood
 (2) pressure treated 2” x 2” boards, 6 foot
 2” and 3” galvanized deck screws
 Drill with ⅛” and ½” wood bit and star-head bit
 Carpenters square
 Circular saw
 Tape measure
 Nylon rope
 Pulley, S hook, and ½” eye bolt
 (1) 4’ x 4’ piece of woven wire
 1 foot of 10 gauge galvanized wire and linesman
pliers
Building the Channels for a Wood Guillotine Door

1. Measure and cut four 6’ sections out of the 2” x
4” boards.
2. Using the ⅛” drill bit, pre-drill 5 equally spaced
holes in both of the 6’ long 2” x 2” boards; this will
keep them from splitting when running screws
through them.
3. Lay the 2” x 2” board along the edge of one of
the 2” x 4” boards and attach it using 2” deck
screws.
4. Lay another 2” x 4” board on top of the 2” x 2”
board and screw it down using 2” deck screws.
The first channel is now complete. Repeat this
process for the second channel.
5. Once the second channel is assembled, lay both
of them on a flat surface side by side.
6. Measure to the inside of each channel—at the
top and bottom—a width of 37” apart; this will
allow space for swelling of the door.
53
Figure 38: A pulley and S-

hook used for guillotine
gates.
7. From the third 2” x 4”, cut three sections long

enough to span the door frame; place one at the
top of the channels, one at the bottom, and the
last one 4’ from the bottom.
8. Arrange them so that they have 5½” of overhang
off of each edge of the channels, and screw them
down using 3” deck screws. Be sure not to allow
screws to pass into the channel.
9. Drill a ½” hole on the end of each of the lower
two cross braces; this is where the gate will
attach to the frame of the trap.
10. On the top support, use the ⅛” drill bit to drill a
hole in the middle of the board. Twist the eye bolt
into this hole with pliers. Hang the pulley from the
eye bolt using the S hook.
The door should be 3 feet wide and 4 feet tall.
11. Using the ½” drill bit, drill a hole 1” from the

bottom at the center of the plywood.
12. Fold the 10 gauge wire in half and pass one end
through the hole. Bring the two ends of the wire
together and twist them together using pliers.
13. Slide the door into the channel and tie the nylon
rope to the draw loop. Pass the other end of the
rope through the pulley.
54
Figure 39: A wooden guillotine door. Notice the rope guided through the
pulley; this stops the rope from hanging up when closing.
Steel Guillotine Door and Gate
The following materials are required to build a steel

guillotine door and gate:
 (2) 6’ sections of 1½” channel steel
 (2) 4’ sections of 1½” channel steel
 (2) 4’ sections of 1” square steel
 (2) 3’ sections of 1” square steel
 (1) 3’ x 4’ section of utility panel
 (4) ½” eye bolts
 Arc welder, gloves, and welding helmet
 Tape measure
 Flat grinder
 Pulley
 Nylon rope
 Spray paint
Do not attempt to build a steel gate without welding

experience. Welding can be extremely dangerous if
you are inexperienced. If you do not have experience
welding, take your materials and these instructions to
a welding shop.
55
Building the Steel Guillotine Door

1. On a flat surface, lay the 6’ sections of channel
so that the channels are facing one another.
2. Using the tape measure spread the 6’ sections
apart so that they are 37” from the inside of the
channel.
3. Position one of the 4’ channel sections at the top
of the 6’ section.
4. Fasten the grounding clamp to one of the 6’
sections. Be sure that the two pieces fit as tightly
together as possible and weld them at the joints.
5. Use the flat grinder to smooth the welds. Before
welding the second 4’ piece onto the bottom,
build the door and slide it between the channels.
Building the Steel Guillotine Gate

1. Lay the 3’ sections of steel 4’ apart. Create a
rectangle using both of the 4’ long 1” steel
sections and both of the 3’ long 1” steel sections
(NOTE: The ends of should meet, but not
overlap). Weld at the joints and use the flat
grinder to smooth the welds.
2. Place the section of utility panel on top of the
door frame and spot weld it to the frame. There
should be one weld at each corner and every 3”
thereafter.
3. Slide the gate into the channel and weld the
second 4’ channel to the bottom.
4. Weld the pulley to the top cross brace in the
center. Measure 4 feet from the bottom of the
frame and weld one of the eye bolts to it; do this
on both sides.
5. Weld the remaining two eye bolts 1 foot from the
bottom on either side of the frame. The eye bolts
are used to wire the gate to the trap.
6. Pass one end of the nylon rope through the
pulley and tie it to the lowest section of the utility
panel on the gate.
7. Tie the other end of the rope to the trigger
mechanism.
56
Figure 40: Steel guillotine gate on round cage trap. Photo Credit- MT
Mengak, March 2014.
When using a steel guillotine door, turn the utility

panel side of the door to the inside of the trap; this
will reduce the chance of pigs ripping the welds off in
case they charge the gate.
57
Building Rooter Doors
Three Panel Rooter Door

The following materials are required for building a
three panel rooter door:
 (3) 38” sections of 2” angle steel

 (2) 6’ sections of 2” angle steel
 (1) 24” piece of 1” angle steel
 (15) 36” sections of 1” square tube steel
 (8) 1’ sections of 1” square tube steel
 (1) 38” x 32” piece of utility panel
 (8) 3” x 3” steel butt hinges
 Tape measure
 Nylon rope
Figure 41: The three panels of a rooter door assembled within a frame.
Photo from Mississippi State University’s Center for Resolving Human
Wildlife Conflicts.
58
Building the Frame for a Three Panel Rooter Door

1. Lay both of the 6’ sections of 2” angle steel on a
flat surface 38 inches apart.
2. Place one 38” piece of angle steel flat on the
bottom and one on the top of the 6’ sections so
that they are flush.
3. The third 38” section should be placed so that the
bottom edge is 39 inches from the bottom piece.
4. Weld each of these three pieces to the 6’
sections.
Building the Three Panels for a Rooter Door

1. Start by laying two of the 1’ sections of 1” square
steel on a flat surface 36 inches apart.
2. Place four of the 36” sections of square steel
between the 1’ pieces; two of them should be
flush with the outer edges of the 1’ pieces, and
the other two should be 4 inches from each of the
edges.
3. Weld each of these sections to the 1’ pieces.
4. Finally, weld two of the butt hinges to the top of
the 1’ side of the panel 2 inches from the outer
edge so that the edge of the hinge is flush with
the edge of the 1” square steel. Build the other
two panels in the same way as the first.
Assembly of a Three Panel Rooter Door

1. Arrange the panels inside of the frame so that the
edges of the first and last panel are ½ inch from
the edge of the frame.
2. Place the middle panel so that it is ½ inch on
either side from the outer panels.
3. The bottom of the panels should be ½ inch from
the bottom of the frame. Be sure that the panels
are arranged so that they will open to a 90
angle.
4. Weld the other side of the hinges to the frame.
5. Spot weld the utility panel to the side of the frame
that faces to the outside of the trap.
59
Building the Out-Rigger for a Three Panel Rooter

Door
An out-rigger should be used to hold the panels up
during the pre-baiting period.
1. Measure 1 foot from the top of the middle cross
brace and weld one of the remaining 36” square
steel pieces perpendicularly to the 6’ angle
sections.
2. Weld another piece of the remaining 36” sections
to the other side of the frame in the same
manner.
3. Weld the remaining piece between the two
perpendicular square steel pieces, flush to the
ends.
4. Weld the two remaining butt hinges 1 foot from
the outer edges of the out-rigger.
5. Weld the last two 1’ square steel pieces
perpendicularly on the hinges.
6. Weld the 24” piece of 1” angle steel to the door
side of the two 1’ pieces.
7. Tie the nylon rope to either the lower right or left
corner of the 1” angle steel. This is for the trip
wire.
Figure 42: An example of an out-rigger used on a three panel rooter

door. Photo Credit - MT Mengak, March 2014.
60
Saloon Door
The following materials are needed to build a saloon
door:
 (4) 15” pieces of 1” square steel tubing

 (10) 46” pieces of 1” square steel tubing
 (2) 4’ pieces of 2” angle iron/steel
 (2) 31” pieces of 2” angle iron/steel
 (4) 3” x 3” steel butt hinges
 (2) 15” extension springs
 (4) ¼” quick links
 Tape measure
 Flat grinder
 Drill and ¼” metal cutting drill bit
Building the Frame for a Saloon Door

1. Start by laying the 31” sections of 2” angle iron
on a flat surface 4 feet apart.
2. Arrange them so that one piece forms an L and
the other forms a backwards L.
3. Place one of the 4’ sections of angle iron on the
left hand side of the 31” sections so that it looks
like a backwards L; on the right hand side, it
should look like an L.
4. Measure 49 inches between the top and bottom
of the frame; this will allow for a ½ inch of space
above and below the door.
5. Weld the four joints where each section meets.
6. Weld the hinges to the frame so that the swivels
of the hinges are facing the inside of the trap;
there will be two hinges per side. These should
be welded between 6-10 inches from the top and
bottom of the frame. The other side of the hinges
will be welded to the doors.
7. Weld one quick link to the outside of the frame on
both the left and right sides the same distance
from the top as the upper hinge.
8. Use the flat grinder to smooth all welds.
61
Building the Saloon Doors

1. Lay two of the 15” pieces of 1” square tubing on
a flat surface 46 inches apart.
2. Arrange five of the 46” pieces of 1” square tubing
in between the two 15” sections spaced 3 inches
apart.
3. Weld at the joints and smooth the welds with the
flat grinder.
4. Weld one of the quick links to the front right side
of the door; this makes the left door when looking
from outside of the trap. The quick link should be
welded the same distance from the top of the
frame as the corresponding quick link on the
frame.
Build the second door in the same way.
Assembly of a Saloon Doors

1. Lay the frame on a flat surface so that the side
that faces outside of the trap is face down.
2. Set the left door into the frame and butt the edge
of the door up to the hinges. Both the top and the
bottom of the door should be ½ inch from the top
and bottom of the frame.
3. Weld the door to the hinges. Repeat the process
for the right door. There should be a ½ inch gap
between the door edge and the frame.
4. Using the drill and drill bit, drill three holes in the
frame between the door edges on both sides of
the frame. There should be one hole in the center
of the frame while the other two should be just
above and below the hinges. These holes will
allow the gate to be wired to two T-posts.
5. Once the doors are in place, stand the gate up
and open the quick links. Hook one end of each
spring to each quick link and close the links.
6. Spray paint the entire gate to prevent rusting.
62
Figure 43: A wild pig caught in a coral trap using a saloon door.
Eight Fingered Gate

The following materials are needed to build an eight
fingered gate:
 (2) 40” pieces of 1 ¾”pipe

 (2) 36” pieces of 1 ¾” pipe
 (9) 37” pieces of ¾” rebar
 (1) 29” piece of 2” pipe
 Saws-all with metal cutting blade or electric
hacks-all
 Tape measure
 Spray paint
Assembly of the Eight Fingered Gate

1. Lay one of the 40” pieces of pipe on a flat
surface.
2. Arrange the two 36” pieces of 1 ¾” pipe
perpendicularly to the 40” piece so that they are
30 inches apart.
3. Weld the 36” pipes to the 40” pipe.
4. Using the electric hacks-all or saw-all, cut the 2”
pipe in to eight 3⅝” lengths.
5. Slide each of these lengths over the second 40”
piece of pipe, leaving 5½ inches of the 1¾” pipe
on either end.
63
6. Weld this piece to the 36” pipes.

7. Arrange each of the pieces of rebar so that they
are centered on each of the 2” collars; weld the
rebar to the 2” pipes.
8. Using the saws-all cut nine 3½” pieces of rebar.
9. Weld these in between each of the fingers at the
bottom of the frame.
10. Spray paint the gate to prevent rusting.
Figure 44: Eight fingered rooter door.
64
Building Traps
Box Traps
The following materials are needed to build a wooden
box trap:
 (14) 12’ pressure treated decking boards
 (4) 6’ pressure treated 4” x 4” posts
 (5) 6’ pressure treated 2” x 4” boards
 3” deck screws
 Battery powered circular saw
 Cordless drill with star-head drill bit
 Tape measure
 Guillotine gate
 (4) steel T-posts
 10 gauge steel wire and pliers
 Sledge hammer or T-post driver
Building the Panels of Box Traps

1. Start by cutting 14 pieces of the decking boards
into 8’ lengths.
2. Lay two of the 6’ posts on a flat surface 8 feet
apart.
3. Using the drill with the bit, attach seven of the 8’
boards to the posts with screws.
4. Start from the bottom of the two posts and screw
the first 8’ board at the bottom end of the post.
The next two boards will be spaced 2 inches
apart. The following boards can be spaced 3
inches apart.
5. Screw two of the 2” x 4” boards to the decking
boards; place one of them 24 inches from one
post and the other 24 inches from the other post.
6. Repeat these steps for the other side panel. The
rear and front panels can be assembled during
set up.
65
Figure 45: The side panel of a wooden box trap. Photo taken by MT
Mengak.
Set-up of Box Traps

Close in the back of the trap using seven of the
remaining 4’ sections of decking boards.
1. First, lay each of the side panels on the ground

where the trap will be set up.
2. Next, lay the two panels on the ground 45 inches
apart to allow the overall width of the trap to be 4
feet.
3. Stand one of the panels up and screw the ends
of the 4’ pieces of decking boards at 90 angles
to the boards on the side panel. Each of these
boards should be at the same spacing as the
boards on the side panel.
4. Stand the other side panel up and repeat the
process.
5. Set the guillotine gate between the 4” x 4” posts.
Screw the gate to the posts by running the
screws through the cross braces into the posts.
6. From the remaining 4’ segments of decking
board, screw three of them to the 4” x 4” posts
above the door of the trap to close off the open
space above the door.
7. Cut eight 6” segments of decking board and use
them to fill the open spaces between the slide
channels of the gate and the posts.
66
8. Using a sledge hammer or T-post driver, drive

one post at each corner of the trap 1 foot into the
ground.
9. Wrap a segment of wire around each of the
corner posts of the trap and the T-post and twist
the ends together using the pliers. This will
prevent pigs from lifting the edges of the trap up
and escaping.
Figure 46: A completed wooden box trap. Photo taken by MT Mengak.
67
Steel Framed Cage Traps

The following materials are needed to build a steel
framed box trap with a saloon door:
 (4) 8’ lengths of 1½” square tube steel

 Saloon door (see instructions on Page 59)
 (2) 5’ x 16’ graduated utility panels
 (1) pulley
 Bolt cutters
 Arc welder, gloves, and helmet
 Saws-all with metal cutting blade
 Flat grinder
 Four T-posts, T-post driver or sledge hammer,
and 10 gauge wire
Figure 47: Pigs trapped in a steel cage trap. Photo from

louisianatrappers.proboards.com.
68
Building the Steel Frame and Door

1. Start by building the side panels of the frame.
Lay two of the 8’ sections on a flat surface 5 feet
apart.
2. At each end of the 8’ sections, weld a 5’ piece of
square tubing to create a 5’ x 8’ rectangle.
3. Using the remaining 8’ pieces and four of the 5’
pieces of tubing repeat the process and build
another rectangle the same dimensions.
4. The remaining 5’ section will be welded to the
frame of the saloon door and welded in to the
front of the trap.
5. Once the rectangles are built, join them at the
corners by welding the 4’ sections of steel tubing
between them.
6. In the center of the top-back 4’ piece of steel,
tack-weld the pulley. This will be used for the trip
wire. When welding the front-bottom section, do
not weld one of the corners.
7. From the unwelded corner, measure 31 inches
and insert the remaining 5’ piece of tubing; weld
it at the top and bottom.
8. Using the saws-all, cut out the 31” section
between the unwelded corner and the 5” section
just added.
9. Slide the door into the 31” opening. The bottom
of the frame should touch the flat surface that
was just worked on.
10. Weld the door frame to the frame of the trap.
Building the Cage of a Steel Framed Cage Trap

1. Spot weld the utility panels to the frame. Start
with the sides. Roll frame onto the 5 foot tall side.
2. Measure out an 8” section from one of the utility
panels and cut it with bolt cutters.
3. Lay the 5’ x 8’ section of panel on to the 5’ x 8’
side of the trap frame.
4. Weld the panel to the frame. The welds should
be no more than 4 inches apart.
5. Roll the frame over and repeat the process for
the other side of the trap.
69
6. Measure and cut two 4’ x 5’ sections of utility

panel. Weld one to the back of the trap the same
way that the sides were done.
7. Weld the other 4’ x 5’ section around the frame of
the front of the trap.
8. Using bolt cutters, cut out the 31” x 49” section of
the panel around the saloon door. Once this
section has been cut out, weld the panel to the
frame of the door. DO NOT WELD IT TO THE
MOVING PARTS OF THE DOOR.
9. Weld an 8’ x 4’ section of utility panel to the top
of the trap.
Notice there is not a panel on the bottom of the cage.

Commercially manufactured pig traps will put a
bottom on the cage to keep users from having to
stake the trap down. However, woven wire gets
caught between hooves; because of this, pigs tend to
avoid stepping on wire. If using a trap with a woven
wire bottom, a layer of leaf litter should be spread
over top of it. Be sure not to make the leaf covering
too think of the doors will not close properly.
Set-Up of Steel Framed Cage Traps

1. Choose your trap site as discussed in the
Trapping Section of this manual.
2. Off load the trap from the truck or trailer used to
carry it to the site.
3. Drive one T-Post at each corner of the trap using
a sledge hammer or T-Post driver.
4. Wrap wire around the T-Post and the corner of
the trap and twist tightly.
70
Corral Traps
Corral traps are meant to be built on site, typically
with two or more people. The following materials are
needed to build a corral trap:
 (6) 16’ x 5’ utility panels with graduated

openings—start off with 2” x 6” openings at the
bottom and graduates to 4” x 6” at the top.
 Trap door of your choice
 10 gauge wire
 Linesman or fencing pliers
 (19) 6’ T-posts
 T-Post driver or sledge hammer
Set-Up
1. Lay all six of the utility panels on the ground so
that the vertical bars of the panels are facing up.
2. Overlap each panel by one grid.
3. Using the wire and pliers, connect the panels.
Each joint should have at least eight wires that
are twisted across welds of the panels.
4. Once all the panels are wired together, stand
them up so that the vertical bars of the panels
are facing what will be the inside of the trap.
5. Make a circle out of the entire assembly, leaving
just enough space for the door. Circular shaped
traps are more effective because there are no
corners that a pig can use to climb out.
6. Drive two T-posts into the ground the same width
as the door frame.
7. Sandwich the ends of the panels between the
door frame and the T-posts, with the T-posts
being in front of the door.
8. Make sure the panels are tight against the
ground and wire them to the T-posts and the
gate. Double the wires here; this is the weakest
point in the trap.
71
9. Drive a T-post into the ground at every point

where the panels overlap. The T-posts must be
on the outside of the trap; this gives the trap
more strength against a charging pig.
10. While one person is driving the posts, another
person can be wiring the panels to them. There
should be five wires per post, starting from the
bottom and working up.
Figure 48: Steel T-Post wired to a typical guillotine door.
Figure 49: More than one person being present during corral trap setup
makes the process much easier.
11. After all joints are secured, start at the post at the
gate, move 4’ down from it and drive another
post. Drive one post every 4’ after that. Wire
these posts to the panel the same as before.
There should be a total of nineteen T-posts for
this trap.
72
12. Now that the trap is built, open the gate and pour
a line of soured corn around the outer edges of
the trap leading to a large bait pile on the inside.
This will guide the pigs to the larger bait pile.
13. Wire the gate open and set a game camera up to
keep track of how many wild pigs are coming to
the trap at any given time.
Figure 50: Pre-baiting an area for wild pig trap.
NOTE: If using the saloon door with this style of trap,

use a piece of wire mesh above the door to close the
open space. This door is only 4’ tall; blocking off the
area above will prevent escape of pigs.
Permanent Corral Traps

The set up and materials are the same for this style
of trap as the semi-permanent corral trap. The
difference between the two is in the posts that are
used for construction. Steel posts are used for more
portable semi-permanent traps. However, when
constructing the permanent corral trap, pressure
treated landscape timbers should be used.
Permanent traps can be made larger by adding more
panels and timbers.
73
Tips and Troubleshooting
Trapping is not an exact science. Every trap has

advantages and disadvantages. Every trapper has
tricks and tips to increase his or her success. It is
important to be creative and innovative. If an element
is not working properly or effectively, try something
different. The most common problem reported is of
pigs not entering the trap. Pigs in the area may
already be educated about traps, which could be due
to past failed efforts by you or by a neighbor.
74
Section 4 – Disease Issues
Section 4
Disease Issues
75
This section will discuss disease issues important to

wild pig management and control.
76
Wild pigs are well known for environmental and

economic damage, but their presence also has
implications for the health of hunters and landowners.
Wild pigs are known to carry or transmit over 30
diseases and 37 parasites, and many of these can be
transmitted to domestic pigs, humans, pets, wildlife,
or other livestock.
The National Wildlife Disease Program (NWDP,

USDA APHIS VS) tests wild pigs for three foreign
and seven endemic diseases. These foreign
diseases – classical swine fever, African swine fever,
and foot-and-mouth disease – are not present in the
United States but are monitored for precautionary
reasons. If one of these diseases is suspected in
your area, call the Wildlife Services Hotline (866-487-
3297).
According to the USDA APHIS Wildlife Service’s On

the Watch for Wildlife Disease, the NWDP tests over
2,300 wild pigs annually for diseases of interest
(2009).
Some wild pig diseases can infect humans. These

are known as zoonotic diseases and include the
following:
 brucellosis,
 leptosporosis,
 toxoplasmosis, and
 trichinosis.
Livestock, pets, and wildlife can contract:

 psuedorabies,
 tuberculosis,
 swine fever,
 brucellosis, and
 vesicular stomatis.
Damage caused by the many diseases spread by

wild pigs is often financial in nature.
77
Human, or zoonotic, diseases are treatable and

often curable, but treatments and doctor visits can be
quite expensive, especially because some zoonotic
diseases can be very difficult to diagnose. Diseases
transmitted to livestock often cause finacial damage
to farmers and ranchers because of veternarian bills,
but these diseases can also lead to livestock death,
causing immediate finacial loss.
Many of the diseases spread to livestock by wild pigs

have historically been eradicated from domestic
animals using vaccination or good animal husbandry.
Over the years, many diseases have been eliminated
from domestic pigs. Good animal husbandry and
surveillance can prevent the introduction of new
diseases. However, a disease introduced by wild pigs
can rapidly spread throughout livestock herds and
wildlife populations, making it extremely costly,
extremely difficult, and, in some cases, impossible to
eliminate.
While there are multiple diseases that can be spread

by wild pigs, a full coverage of all of them is beyond
the scope of this management guilde. For the
purposes of this manual, only those diseases most
often encountered by hunters, farmers, and
landowners, as well as those diseases posing the
greatest threat to human health, will be discussed.
These illnesses are typically caused by a bacteria or

a virus. Some diseases are caused by a parasite or
other causative agent. Humans can contract more
than two dozen illnesses from wild pigs, and most of
these are passed to humans during cleaning (field
dressing) wild pigs or during the consumption of
undercooked meat or pork products. These diseases
have different vectors for means of infection.
78
Brucellosis
Brucellosis is a bacterial disease that affects livestock
or wild animals — primarily cattle, bison, elk, and
swine — and humans. There are multiple forms of
the Brucella bacteria. Swine brucellosis has been
nearly eradicated from domestic pigs, but wild pigs,
especially those in the southern United States,
remain a reservoir for this disease.
Infection rates vary – up to 9% of wild pigs tested

positive in South Carolina; 3.5% in Louisiana; 10% in
Texas; 22% on some hunting areas in Arkansas. Up
to 4% of wild pigs tested in Georgia were positive for
brucellosis. Humans contract this disease through
contact with blood, other fluids, and/or tissue of
infected wild pigs. People can become ill if these
substances come in contact with the eyes, nose,
mouth, or a cut on the skin.
Diagnosis of brucellosis in humans is often difficult

because it often resembles and shares symptoms
with other illnesses. In some cases, symptoms may
not become apparent for as long as four to six
months after initial infection. Confirmation of infection
requires a blood test and sometimes a tissue sample.
Patients often experience:

 Joint pain,
 Reduced appetite,
 Headaches,
 Chills,
 Weakness or fatigue,
 Abortion in women and testicular pain in males,
 Potential weight loss,
 Difficulty breathing/chest pain,
 Enlarged liver and/or spleen, and
 Abdominal pain.
79
Characteristics of brucellosis in livestock:

 Abortion or birth of weak offspring; abortion
typically occurs between five to seven months into
pregnancy.
 Milk production is reduced.
 Infected livestock usually abort once; sometimes
sequential abortions may occur in any given
individual.
 Offspring born from later pregnancies are often
weak and unhealthy.
 Though offspring appear healthy, infected livestock
continue to harbor and spread infectious bacteria;
offspring of infected individuals should be treated
as dangerous sources of the disease.
 Poor conception rates and lowering of fertility has
been observed.
 Uterine infections are cause by the retention of
afterbirths.
 Joints are often enlarged and arthritic.
Transmission of the Brucella bacteria often occurs

during direct contact with infected animals. Contact
can be in the form of nose touching, licking, sexual
contact, or grooming. Other ways for transmission
include contact with an environment in which an
infected individual has urinated, given birth, or drank
from a water tank or trough. Aborted fetuses,
placental membranes or fluids, and other vaginal
secretions present after an infected animal has
aborted or calved are all highly contaminated with
contagious bacteria. Livestock may lick placental
fluids or the genital area of other animals or ingest
the bacteria with contaminated food or water.
The general rule is that brucellosis is carried from

one herd to another by an infected or exposed
animal. For this reason, wild pigs should never be
introduced or mixed with domestic herds unless they
are tested and certified free of disease.
80
Human infection most often occurs through field

dressing harvested wild pigs. Blood, guts, and knife
cuts are common avenues of exposure. Humans can
also be infected through the consumption of
undercooked meat.
There is no cure for brucellosis in humans or animals;

only treatments are available. Humans are treated
with very high doses of antibiotics for extended
periods of time to clear the infection. Wearing latex or
rubber gloves while cleaning and butchering
harvested pigs is an important precautionary
measure for avoiding exposure. Also, make sure any
meat consumed is thoroughly cooked. Using a meat
thermometer, cook all meat to an internal
temperature of 160 F.
Pseudorabies
This disease is caused by a type of herpes virus. It is
not related to rabies. It does cause symptoms similar
to rabies, such as convulsions and excessive
salivation, and it does affect the central nervous
system. The disease was named for the similarity in
symptoms, but it is also known as Aujesky’s disease
and Mad Itch disease. Infection rates among wild
pigs are generally much higher for pseudorabies than
for brucellosis. In fact, swine, which includes wild
pigs, are the main host of this disease. Pseudorabies
does not affect humans.
Pseudorabies frequently causes abortions and

mortality in mature sows. In swine, it is often spread
by asymptomatic carriers, or individuals that carry the
disease but show no signs of illness. The virus can
survive on environmental objects and be transmitted
by contaminated boots, trucks, tires, feed, and
equipment. Horses rarely contract the disease, while
dogs and livestock are susceptible to infection.
81
Studies have shown that up to 50% of wild pigs in

Florida and 30% in some areas of South Carolina are
infected with the virus that causes pseudorabies. This
disease is rarely fatal to adult pigs but causes
abortion in pregnant sows and death in young piglets.
Characteristics of pseudorabies:
 Infected individuals often suffer from lesions in the
central nervous system, respiratory system, and/or
reproductive system.
 In domestic pigs, clinical signs may vary from
unnoticeable to infections that are often fatal.
 Young pigs less than four weeks of age often
display symptoms including light fever, tremors,
uncoordinated movements, convulsions, and death.
 Adults usually survive but often exhibit fever and
upper respiratory inflammation.
 Infection of pregnant individuals often results in
abortion of the fetus or still births.
 In wild populations, the disease is rarely fatal.
When pseudorabies affects the central nervous

system of other animals, loss of appetite, depression,
staggering, spasms, and high mortality rates occur.
This disease is also known as Mad Itch because it
leads to self-mutilation as a result of persistent
scratching and rubbing.
Pseudorabies is spread through:

 Contact with an infected individual’s saliva or nasal
discharges
 Shared feed and watering troughs, as has been
reported in Florida and Texas (This method is
responsible for most of the transmission events
from wild pig populations to domestic livestock)
 Ingestion of infected meat, as is seen in
carnivorous species
 Sexual contact, especially in wild pig populations
82
Every year, millions of dollars are spent to diagnose

and prevent the spread of pseudorabies. Most often
seen in wild pig populations, the disease can be
drastically reduced with the exclusion of wild pigs.
The disease is highly transmissible to livestock.
The capture and relocation of wild pigs without the

proper testing is illegal in most states, including
Georgia. Where wild pigs and livestock interact, the
best means of pseudorabies prevention is wild pig
population control and exclusion of wild pigs from
feeding and watering areas.
Trichinosis
While most diseases associated with wild pigs are
caused by bacteria or viruses, trichinosis is caused
by a nematode parasite, commonly known as a round
worm. Most mammals, including humans, are
susceptible to infection and most often become
infected through the ingestion of muscle tissues.
Trichinosis typically does not cause illness in wild

pigs or other animals but may cause behavioral
changes. Infection can be quite severe in humans.
 Adult nematodes inhabit the intestinal tract of all

infected individuals.
 In humans, infection causes abdominal pain,
nausea, cramps, and vomiting.
 The larvae of the parasite invade the muscle
tissues, usually active muscles like the tongue,
diaphragm, jaw, and intercostal muscles.
 This generally leads to fever, muscle pains, facial
swelling, fatigue, skin lesions, and swelling of the
upper eyelids, which causes a sensitivity to light,
also known as photophobia.
 If left untreated, infection can be fatal for humans.
 Abdominal symptoms usually occur 1-2 days after
infection, but other symptoms can take 2-8 weeks.
 Treatment should begin as soon as a diagnosis is
made.
83
Human infection is most often a result of ingestion of

undercooked meat, including both wild and domestic
pork. The number of incidents directly related to
domestic pork sources has been greatly reduced in
recent years.
To avoid infection:
 When handling meat from wild pigs, wear latex or
rubber gloves.
 Cook meet to an internal temperature of 160 F.
To prevent the further spread of Trichinosis to other

wildlife species:
 Bury the carcass of any dead animal.
 Georgia law requires dead animals to be buried at
least 3 feet deep and not in a way that
contaminates surface or ground water (O.C.G.A. §
4-5-5).
 Carcasses can also be burned to prevent further
infection and spread of the disease.
Classical Swine Fever

Primarily known as hog cholera, this disease is
caused by a virus once prevalent among domestic
pigs. However, this was eradicated from the United
States in the 1970s.
Characteristics of Classical Swine Fever:

 Infected individuals show signs of depression, loss
of appetite, sleepiness, and fever.
 Vomiting and diarrhea may also occur, causing
progressed weakness in infected animals.
 Symptoms progress rapidly; animals may die within
10 to 20 days after initial infection.
 Before death, the animal will convulse violently.
 If the virus does not cause death, the condition will
become chronic, but symptoms are milder; infected
individuals become carriers.
84
The virus is easily transmitted from pig to pig by

direct contact, such as nasal discharge, licking, and
grooming. Classical Swine Fever can be spread via
exposure to contaminated feeders or pens. If
infection does occur in a domestic pig population, it
must be reported to state and federal animal health
authorities.
Porcine Epidemic Diarrhea Virus (PEDv)

PEDv was first diagnosed in the United States in
2013. PEDv continues to wreak havoc on domestic
populations. It is a viral disease associated with
outbreaks of diarrhea and vomiting in pigs. Recently,
the virus was found in two sets of samples from a
domestic swine show in Perry, GA. While not
transmissible to humans, PEDv still affects humans
financially through losses of domestic pig stock.
Porcine Epidemic Diarrhea Virus:

 is most devastating to young pigs and is almost
always fatal.
 affects pigs of all ages and can be fatal to older
pigs. Typically, adult pigs will recover within 7-10
days.
 is usually transmitted through ingestion of fecal
matter during in feeding.
Currently, there is no treatment for PEDv. Due to the

epidemic presented by the disease, all confirmed
cases of PEDv must be reported to the United States
Department of Agriculture as of April 18, 2014.
Other Biological Concerns

Leptospirosis
Caused by bacteria, this ancient disease may be the
most widespread zoonotic disease in the world. It can
and does occur in domestic swine; prevalence in wild
pigs is not clear. If infected, wild pigs can shed the
bacteria in water, causing potential exposure of
humans while swimming, fishing, or during floods.
85
E. coli
There are many varieties of these common bacteria.
Most are harmless, even beneficial, and routinely
inhabit the human intestinal tract. However, several
variants, notably E. coli O157, can cause illness in
humans. Pigs are known carriers of E. coli. Up to
15% of animals tested in California were positive for
E.coli O157. Wild pigs are widely believed to be
responsible for the California outbreak of human
illness several years ago caused by spinach from a
field, which was exposed to and contaminated by wild
pigs. In Georgia, streams within the Pennahatchee
Creek watershed in Dooly County had high levels of
E.coli contamination. Following an investigation,
funds secured by Georgia Environmental Protection
Division were used to implement a Watershed
Management Plan to reduce wild pig populations in
the watershed as an effort to reduce fecal
contamination, including E.coli. Those funds also led
to the production of this manual.
General Precautions for Handling Wild Pigs

 Wear latex or rubber gloves when cleaning, field
dressing, or processing wild pigs.
 Thoroughly clean knives, saws, and all surfaces
with hot soapy water and a commercial
disinfectant, such as bleach, after processing wild
pigs.
 Store and handle wild pig meat and meat products
safely.
 Cook all wild pig meat and meat products to an
internal temperature of 160 F.
86
Section 5 – Legal Concerns
Section 5
Legal Concerns
87
Most of the legal issues surrounding wild pigs

primarily deal with the management strategies used
to control them. This section is devoted to the issues
surrounding hunting, trapping, and moving of wild
pigs.
88
Hunting of Wild Pigs

The following statements apply to hunting on private
land in the state of Georgia:
 Wild pigs may be hunted year round with no bag
limits.
 They may also be hunted at night with a light
carried on the person or affixed to a helmet or hat
or part of a belt system worn by a hunter.
 Generally, hunting from a vehicle is illegal;
however, special permits can be acquired that
allow hunting from a vehicle and the use of any
light source.
 Although wild pigs in Georgia are not considered a
game species, a resident hunting license is
required to hunt them for all resident hunters 16
years old or older, except when hunting on land
owned by them or their immediate family.
 Non-residents must possess a non-resident hunting
license.
 Wild pigs can be hunted over bait. However, use of
bait cannot be in violation of deer hunting
regulations.
Wild pigs can also be hunted on Federal lands and

state Wildlife Management Areas in Georgia. The
following statements apply to hunting on public land:
 There must be an open season for a listed game
species.
 There are restrictions on the equipment that can be
used in these areas.
 The appropriate weapon depends on the game
species season open at a given time—wild pigs
can be hunted with deer rifles during deer rifle
season or shotguns during turkey season, etc.
 There is no limit on the number of wild pigs that can
be taken on public hunting lands.
 It is illegal to hunt wild pigs on public land at night.
 It is illegal to hunt over bait on public lands.
89
 Hunting on public land requires a Georgia hunting

license.
 Blaze orange vests are required for all hunters
during firearm and primitive weapons seasons.
 Hunting wild pigs with dogs is permitted on public
lands with appropriate weapons restrictions.
 Training dogs during dates when training season
coincides with small game or turkey season is
allowed.
 Consult the Georgia Hunting Regulations to confirm
where and when training dates occur for a given
area.
Transportation of Wild Pigs

It is illegal to move wild pigs within the state of
Georgia unless the animals have tested negative to
an official brucellosis test and an official
pseudorabies test within 30 days prior to movement.
These tests can be avoided only if the wild pigs are
moved to an approved hunting preserve in Georgia.
However, at the time of this manual’s production, no
approved hunting preserves exist within the state.
(Authority O.C. G. A. § 4-4-70 and Chapter 40-13-3 Rules of GA
Department of Agriculture, Animal Industry Division.)
It is illegal to release any trapped or transported

live wild pig into any area that is not fenced to
prevent escape of such wild pig. Any persons
convicted of the release of live wild pigs in
violation of established laws and regulations may
be subject to revocation of hunting privileges for
up to three years. Transport and possession of
live wild pigs are regulated by Georgia
Department of Agriculture; contact the Animal
Industry Division at 404-656-3671 for more
information.
90
Trapping of Wild Pigs

The following statements apply to trapping on private
land in the state of Georgia:
 There is no season or bag limit.
 Trap designs described previously in this manual
can be used to capture wild pigs.
 Snaring wild pigs in Georgia private lands is illegal.
 Trapping wild pigs on public land in Georgia is
illegal. According to state trapping regulations, only
furbearing animals are allowed to be trapped on
public lands.
 It is also illegal to transport captured wild pigs to
any unfenced area in the state of Georgia.
 Fences will rarely contain wild pigs. Wild pigs
should never be released alive.
Toxicants
Research is in progress to determine a suitable
toxicant, or poison, for wild pigs. Several products
have shown promising results in preliminary
research. It is likely to be 3-7 years before a poison is
approved for use on wild pigs. Several compounds
are often used by landowners in an attempt to control
wild pig populations. Unfortunately, almost all of
these products cause serious harm to the
environment and to non-target wildlife species,
including game animals and endangered species.
The use of toxicants is not permitted in Georgia.
AT THE TIME THIS MANUAL WAS WRITTEN,

APPLYING OR DISPERSING ANY POISON TO
KILL WILD PIGS IN GEORGIA IS ILLEGAL.
91
(page intentionally left blank)
92
Section 6 – Other Considerations
Section 6
Other Considerations
93
This section will discuss other considerations to keep

in mind during wild pig control efforts including
carcass disposal, contraception, and future potential
of using poison.
Carcass Disposal
The meat from wild pigs is edible and can be taken
home by the landowner. Depending on location, there
may be local meat processors that can accept wild
pigs. Generally, deer processers cannot accept wild
pigs; instead, hunters and other interested persons
must contact the Georgia Department of Agriculture
(www.agr.georgia.gov). Wild pigs can be processed at
“any facility licensed by the Georgia Department of
Agriculture Meat Inspection Section” authorized to
handle “custom exempt products.” A list of custom
exempt facilities is available by calling the Georgia
Department of Agriculture at 404-656-3673. See the
website and Frequently Asked Questions at
http://agr.georgia.gov/hunters-helping-farmers-
faq.aspx for more information.
Georgia Department of Agriculture’s Dead Animal

Disposal Rule, 40-13-5, describes the proper way to
bury an animal. Wild pigs are not domestic animals
and are therefore exempt from the rule
(http://agr.georgia.gov/hunters-helping-farmers-faq.aspx). Wild
pigs and associated pig products cannot be donated
or given away if considered to be “hunter-killed.”
Hunter-killed wild pigs are to be used exclusively by
the owner, or the hunter of the animal, his/her
household, and his/her non-paying guests and
employees.
Carcasses may also be burned or buried. If burning

carcasses, dig a pit and throw the bodies into it
before burning. This will help lessen the chance of
spreading a fire and will offer an easy way of burial
should any remains be left following the fire. An
accelerant such as diesel fuel or kerosene is often
poured over the carcasses to start the fire.
94
If burying carcasses, State law requires a minimum

grave depth such that the carcass is covered by at
least 3 feet of soil. Because of potential groundwater
contamination, burial is not recommended in
southern Georgia or areas where there is a high
ground water table (M. Wilson, pers. comm.).
Regulations pertaining to carcass disposal are found
in the Georgia legal code (O.C.G.A – Title 4, Chapter
5, Sections 1-11).
Burning or burying carcasses will help to decrease

the attraction of scavenging animals such as vultures
or coyotes. Utilization of heavy digging machinery will
be required to dig a pit that will be deep, long, and
wide enough to contain the carcasses of dispatched
feral hogs. The depth, length, and width of the pit
needed will depend on the number of hogs captured
and killed.
Some hunters, specifically shooters, will simply leave

pigs where they lie. This action often attracts
scavengers, as well as pets and wild dogs, to the
area.
Wild pigs are not considered wildlife in Georgia.

Hunters may let individual wild pigs lay where they
fall. This is not a violation of willful and wanton waste
laws as these rules apply to wildlife (T. Holbrook,
GWF, pers. comm.). Wild pigs die in the woods
naturally, and there is no obligation to locate them or
bury them. However, when conducting large scale
hunting or trapping operations, adequate means of
carcass disposal in compliance with all applicable
laws must be employed. Contact the Georgia
Department of Agriculture or the Georgia Wildlife
Resources Division for guidance on legal means of
carcass disposal.
95
Contraception
Development of an effective contraceptive, or birth
control, for any animal faces several challenges. The
contraceptive must be reversible in case an animal
begins to exhibit any unforeseen adverse reactions.
Contraceptives must be administrable in the field and
must be species-specific to ensure non-target
species are not affected. Applied contraceptives
should not affect animal behavior, including not only
social behavior, but breeding behavior as well. At the
time of this manual’s printing, no anti-fertility control
drugs have been approved for the control of wild
pigs. However, the development of endocrine
regulatory drugs that could suppress certain
hormones and prevent fertility is possible in the
future.
The application of bait laced with a contraceptive

agent has been considered as an option, but
determining a type of bait that will be avoided by non-
target species is necessary.
Current research has found injections of

gonadotropin-releasing hormone to be effective in
captive pigs. However, application of this
contraceptive in the field is difficult, making this
means of control ineffective. GonaCon™, a
contraceptive under research, was originally
developed for controlling whitetail deer populations.
This single shot, multiyear birth control agent
prevents animals from entering an estrus cycle
through hormonal control. GonaCon™ is effective on
both sexes but works best on females. Even without
boosters, the vaccine will render females infertile for
1-4 years. This contraceptive is most often
administered using a dart fired from a tranquilizer
gun. Although GonaCon™ is an effective means of
fertility control in pigs, it is currently not registered for
use in wild populations.
96
Problems with the application of any contraceptive

include:
 Initial delivery,
 Effectiveness,
 Duration,
 Delivery of subsequent doses,
 Impact on non-target species, and
 Cost.
The greatest challenge in the use of contraceptives

for wild pig control will likely be the administration.
Though treating individual captive animals is
relatively easy, effectively administering
contraceptives to large numbers of free-ranging
individuals will be difficult. Therefore, contraceptive
use as a population control agent is not considered
effective.
Poisoning Research
Currently, there are no registered toxicants or
poisons available for controlling wild pig populations.
However, research to identify and register a toxicant
that can be used to combat the overabundant pig
population is underway. An effective toxicant could
be a powerful and cost effective tool for reducing wild
pig numbers. However, the poison must humanely kill
wild pigs while having little effect on non-target
species.
In recent efforts to reduce the wild pip populations,

researchers in Australia have developed a product
known as PIGOUT®, a bait containing Compound
1080, which is highly toxic to mammals. PIGOUT®
has proven successful in Australia, due in part to the
absence of any native midsized generalist mammals.
Unfortunately, PIGOUT® has proven useless in the
United States due to too many non-target species
hazards. Also, the product could cause inhumane
deaths for pigs. Additionally, the compound can
remain in the carcasses, which could cause some
97
environmental and health concerns. Furthermore, no

antidote exists for accidental human exposure.
Concerns surrounding PIGOUT® have led Australian

researchers to identify a different toxicant to use
against wild pigs. Sodium nitrite could be the solution.
This compound seems to cause a quick, humane
death, and it is cheap, displays no secondary toxicity,
and has an antidote. Currently undergoing trials in
Australia, if this toxin proves effective, the
commercially available product will be known as
HOG-GONE®.
In the United States, application of a poison remains

an issue up for debate, largely due to the presence of
so many at-risk non-target species. Bears, raccoons,
many other mammals, and even some birds could
readily ingest an applied toxicant. The effectiveness
of the product is also a concern; sodium nitrate, or
HOG-GONE® is very salty and distasteful to pigs. In
order to mask the salty taste, the toxicant must be
specially formulated; otherwise, pigs will avoid it.
Landowners that attempt to apply sodium nitrite in its
natural form will quickly learn that it has little to no
effect on wild pigs. Most importantly, though, it is
illegal to apply the toxicant to the environment.
Because there are no registered toxicants for wild

pigs, the use of any poisons registered for use
against other pest species—i.e. rats, mice, etc.—is
illegal and will result in felony charges. All registered
toxicants are listed under the Federal Insecticide,
Fungicide, and Rodenticide Act, and any use of these
toxicants outside their labeled use is a violation of
federal law with severe penalties.
AT THE TIME OF THIS MANUAL’S PRINTING,

POISONING WILD PIGS IN GEORGIA IS ILLEGAL
AND PUNISHABLE BY LAW.
98
References
References
99
References
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Pigs. Prevention and Control of Wildlife Damage
Handbook. University of Nebraska – Lincoln,
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Seasonal and annual variations in earthworm
consumption by wild boar (Sus scrofa scrofa L.).
Wildlife Research, 30:179-186.
Bieber, C. and T. Ruff. 2005. Population dynamics in

wild boar Sus scrofa: ecology, elasticity of growth
rates and implications for the management of
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Ecology, 42:1203-1213.
Campbell, T. A. and D. B. Long. 2007. Mammalian

visitation to candidate feral swine attractants.
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Campbell, T. A. and D. B. Long. 2009. Feral swine

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References
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Severson, S. A. Shwiff, B. U. Constantin, and D.
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102

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Georgia Landowner’s Guide

to Wild Pig Management

This manual was prepared by:

The production of this manual was supervised by:

The production of this manual was also made possible by contributions

Section 1: Basic Pig Biology 1

All wild pigs, wild boar, feral swine, and Eurasian

Pigs were initially favored by early North American

 high reproductive potential,

Many sources of information on the biology of wild

Today’s wild pig populations are related to escaped

practices over a period of many generations, wild

Figure 2: A sounder of wild pigs under a game feeder. A sounder often

Since their introduction to North America, wild pigs

Like any successful invasive species, wild pigs are

Diet varies seasonally. A seasonal change in the

During mast years, acorns, beach nuts, pecans, and

Earthworms make up approximately fifty to ninety

Figure 4: Solitary boar hog feeding on acorns.

Wild pigs are most susceptible to predation as

Figure 5: A typical sounder group. 16 pigs are shown in this photo.

Human Dimension of Pig Management

In the UGA Wild Pig Survey, 53% of respondents felt

With their tough snouts and over-developed neck

Figure 6: Typical destruction to a wildlife food plot caused by wild pig

Damage is attributed to the pigs’ persistent rooting

Along with direct predation on young livestock, wild

of farm ponds and watering holes also affects

In addition to effects on livestock and agricultural

Wild pigs contribute to the erosion of stream banks,

Due to their highly destructive nature and rapidly

When working to control wild pig populations, it is

variety of control techniques and their effectiveness,

The most effective means of control is trapping,

Because the authors of and contributors to this

The purpose of this manual is to explain the

There are a variety of management tools that can be

Exclusion and Fencing

Exclusion of wild pigs typically involves fencing,

Figure 7: An example of a non-electric wild pig exclusion fence built by

Non-electric fences should be constructed using net

Stranded wire fences used in conjunction with electric

Stranded wire fences are cheaper to construct than

Figure 8: A multi-purpose electric fence designed to exclude both wild

Hunting with Dogs

Hunters, usually on horseback or in an all-terrain

Dog hunting can greatly increase the chances of

Trapping with Snares

Advantages of using snares for pigs include:

Disadvantages of using snares for pigs include:

In areas where snares are legal, these are usually

Hunting and Shooting

Hunting as a management method can be useful in

To encourage the availability of hunting land, Georgia

Georgia law (OCGA 27-3-1) further extends this same

Figure 12: Shooting pigs from a helicopter with a semi-automatic rifle in

Aerial shooting most often employs the use of a

One study employed aerial shooting over a five day

In Georgia, a light must be carried by or attached to a