Tejas SteelWorks, Inc.

One Recipe to LS Swap Your

‘73-’87 2wd GM Truck

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Copyright 2015
All Rights Reserved

Tejas SteelWorks, Inc. makes no claim of suitability regarding the

material contained in this guide. It is up to the end user to
ultimately determine suitability for their use and application.

This guide is published free of charge.

Responsible distribution is encouraged.
Once distributed or reproduced, Tejas SteelWorks, Inc. has no
control over alterations. Use at your own risk.

Tejas SteelWorks, Inc.

Hutto, Texas
Tejas-steelworks@austin.rr.com

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Purpose & Scope

The purpose of this guide is to provide a comprehensive list of
elements required to perform a factory like installation, and the
scope of the details here is limited to 2wd GM trucks, ½ ton-1 ton.
Four wheel drive trucks are less flexible, due to the extensive
number of changes that might come from attempting to relocate
the transmission and transfer case. While motor mounting can be
moved to accomplish many of the objectives outlined here, 4wd LS
swaps are more complex, so will not be addressed here. If you
have a 4wd, please contact us to discuss options.

Some of the elements described are taken from 1987 models, as

this was the first of the factory fuel injected models. Generally
speaking, it is possible to retro-fit parts from the 1987 models to
earlier models. This is intended to accomplish various objectives
with less effort, while taking advantage of factory engineering.
Most of the elements described here are aimed at a very “factory
stock” installation. For this reason, the OE engine management will
be the only fuel injection and transmission control outlined here.
Other parts, such as cooling fans, are hard to beat with
aftermarket parts, so we like to harvest those from the yards

Some may intend to make significant performance upgrades.

Many of those upgrades may well be compatible with the
approach outlined here, there are simply too many combinations
to say so. Additionally, it is a well proven method to avoid adding
complexity of changes to an already challenging task. Once up and
running, performance upgrades can be approached like any
factory vehicle, with far less complication. 3
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Sources
Most of the components detailed are sourced from OE
applications, across various years. Aftermarket parts are only
employed when more suitable than OE parts. Priority has been
placed on suitability of parts, rather than price.
The most used suppliers for various components should be
familiar: RockAuto.com, Summit Racing, Auto Zone, O’Reilly , etc.

Price comparisons using EBay and Amazon are very beneficial in

controlling costs. Part numbers and brands listed are what we have
used successfully. Interchange and substitution is certainly
possible.
Some components are best when well seasoned, and a good
relationship with your local Pick & Pull is very helpful.

Choices
What engine and trans do you want? Any LS engine is a good
basis to hotrod later. Even the little 4.8L can easily make 450 HP.
Plan on towing? The 6.0L is king, but they all can manage.
What trans? Thinking you might keep your original? Don’t. Your
700r4 compares to a 4L60e about like a 283 compares to an LS9.
The 4L60e can hold 700 HP, built right, and the 4L80e makes it look
like a sissy. Either is capable of 20+ mpg, with a 3.08 gear. Both will
tow just fine. Both can last 200k miles. Ever install a shift kit? Both
use those, too, but now you can tune every aspect of transmission
behavior with a laptop. Seriously, EVERYTHING.
You can mix and match engine and trans combos, some adapters
required…
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Engine and Transmission mounting

The variety of engine mount adapters is amazing. This can create
a lot of confusion for anyone taking on their first LS swap. Part of
the confusion stems from the reference point for “stock” location.
The “stock” location referenced here is based on the position of
the mating surface between the engine and transmission.
Two wheel drive trucks enjoy a lot of flexibility in engine
placement because the only limits are imposed by the position of
the radiator and the rear axle. Four wheel drive trucks are not so
easy to get along with. Transfer case mounting and shifters, plus
the complexity of managing two sets of driveline angles, make for
a single best position.

One of the best attributes of the LS based engine is the weight.

There can be as much as 150 pounds difference between an iron
block/iron head 350, and an aluminum block/aluminum head LS.
The iron head LS is noticeably lighter, than a 350 SBC, but another
80 pounds is lost with aluminum heads. For this reason, the LS
motor can be mounted forward of the stock position without
adverse effects on handling and weight distribution.
Most of the references here are about the LS truck engines, as
they are the most common candidate for a swap. Passenger car LS
engines enjoy a more compact height, with shallower pan and
shorter intake, but are wider in places. While side clearance isn’t
an issue, we have not verified accessory fit with the mounts used
here. Truck mount accessories work quite well.
The Tejas SteelWorks mount adapters work with OE clamshell
mounts, requiring a notch in the lower front corner of the
clamshell cover to clear a protrusion on the engine block. 5
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Position
The mounting position used in this outline is approximately three
inches forward of “stock”. This position was derived by mocking up
the engine and transmission so that two objectives could be met:
1. retain the LS truck A/C compressor mounting on the lower right
side, (aftermarket relocation brackets are expensive) 2. ensure
adequate clearance at the cross-member to retain the LS truck oil
pan, (aftermarket swap kits pushing oil pans are unnecessary)
The Tejas SteelWorks LS motor mount adapter plates achieve this.
Others may, as well. Most sacrifice the A/C mounting.

The placement of the engine provides for sufficient space

between the radiator and block to install LS truck or 5th Gen
Camaro (2010+) waterpump, with room for typical electric fans.
Engine driven fans with a hydrostatic clutch will not fit.
The rear of the truck intake clears the firewall by about 5 inches.
The engine rides fairly high in the chassis, placing the oil pan very
near flush with the underside of the cross-member. Trucks lowered
more than four inches should look closely at ground clearance,
and substitute a shallower pan if appropriate. “Laying Frame” was
not a consideration in this installation. The LS truck intake will just
brush the hood insulation with the cosmetic cover in place.
Passenger car type intakes would offer several inches of clearance.
The engine sits a little steeper than usual, at 4-6 degrees,
depending on transmission used, and transmission mount. This
should be considered when setting up driveline angles. (more
later) No particular countermeasures were required in the pilot
build, which was lowered four inches.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Driveline
Driveline angles are very important, and often misunderstood. LS
swaps in a ‘73-’87 GM truck are no exception, but trouble is easy
to avoid with a little awareness.
Engine position and transmission mount position are what
determine driveline angle. Some of you may have heard that it
MUST be 3 degrees. Not quite. What is more important is the
relationship of the Drivertrain (engine & trans) to the Driveline
(driveshaft and rear axle).
The objective is to make sure that the operating angles of each u-
joint are as low as possible (but not zero -EVER), and that the
operating angle of the front joint and rear joint are as close to
equal as possible. LS truck engines have little room to move in.
The truck oil pan should be flush with the cross-member, and that
will put the decorative cover on the truck intake very close to the
hood insulation. The drivetrain angle will be determined by
transmission mounting. The stock transmission cross-member
tends to work fine, but crowds dual exhaust, as usual. If
adjustment is required, you can shim the transmission mount
upward. Downward is bad.
Depending on how much your truck might be lowered, no
particular adjustment to pinion angle should be required, but
make sure to check it with a digital level or angle finder. Keep the
objectives above in mind. Wedge shims can be used to adjust the
pinion angle, if needed.
Lastly, the mounting position here normally requires a longer
driveshaft. That is money well spent, since you’re about to add all
that power! Longer shafts usually need to be larger. Look at the
one that comes in your donor truck. It’s a good candidate. 7
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Exhaust System
Engine mounting position also affects exhaust fitment. While it
is possible, with very particular engine position, to use the LS truck
exhaust manifolds, they will not fit in this installation. The
manifold collectors are splayed way out to the sides, placing the
driver’s side within the space of the right frame rail, and the
passenger side requiring a substantial notching of the top flange
on the right side frame rail. Cutting away any part of the frame rail
behind the front wheels is highly discouraged.

The manifolds used here are Hooker cast iron manifolds designed
of the GM E-Rod crate motors. They are about three inches more
narrow, at the collector flanges, when installed. Fifth Gen Camaro
exhaust manifolds may fit almost as well, but will be somewhat
wider. Other applications have been used, as well as some
aftermarket tubular headers, but none have been confirmed with
this engine placement. Two points to address: LS engines
notoriously break exhaust manifold bolts due to rapid thermal
expansion and contraction. GM did release improved bolts, but
they are quite expensive. We have found that ARP offers bolts,
slightly longer than stock, that will hold up much better. We also
use braided stainless flex joints in the exhaust pipes to allow each
manifold to move independent of the exhaust system.
Exhaust pipe for stock engines should be modeled after the
engine donor vehicles, with respect to flow. Dual 2.5” or single 3”
exhaust is just fine. Long tube headers do offer power gains, but
usually at the expense of torque production. Peak power will often
be moved too high to be of use to most drivers.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Cooling System
The stock radiator used in the ‘73-’87 GM trucks is adequate for
cooling an LS engine. Our preference is the radiator for the HD
Cooling to fit a 454 c.i. application. This offers max cooling that fits
the core support as GM intended. The pilot build runs at 200
degrees, no matter how hot or cold the weather is.
Electric fans are required due to the space limitations of the
engine’s forward mounting position. The most direct approach is
to use twin fans, about 12 inches in diameter, staggered high and
low. Simply hanging a fan against the back of the radiator core is
not advised. A proper shroud allows air flow from the entire core
to reach the fans.
One of the most challenging parts of installing an LS engine is
finding the correct radiator hoses. This task is greatly simplified,
and the engine compartment greatly cleaned up, by swapping the
truck waterpump out for a 2010 Camaro pump. This also facilitates
easier intake air routing (see below). The 2010 Camaro waterpump
is available as an assembly, with the belt tensioner and pulley,
thermostat and thermostat housing/water neck. The top water
neck is on the driver’s side of the engine, and uses the top hose
from a ‘05-’08 Corvette. The lower hose is easier to connect, with
the thermostat housing pointed lower, and comes from any 2wd
LS truck. Both hoses will require minor trimming to length. The
2010 Camaro waterpump requires relocation of the idler pulley,
using a $30 kit from Dirty Dingo, or a longer bolt and spacer, to
position the idler between the alternator and power steering
pump. The accessory drive belt used is from a Hummer H1 with
6.5L diesel.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Fuel System (1 of 2)
EFI fuel systems are another area where a variety of solutions
exist, but some are more suitable than others, depending on the
mission goal. Unlike a dead-end, low pressure arrangement used
in a carb application, where fuel is accumulated in the carb,
available for use as demand varies, EFI systems move high volumes
of fuel, at high pressure. The “return-less “ system is something of
a myth. Every system returns excess fuel to the tank, whether it
makes a full loop from the injector rails, an abbreviated loop from
filter/regulator midway in the system, internally within a frame
mounted pump, or within the tank. This is because the system
must lift enough fuel for sustained high throttle operation, without
benefit of a reservoir on the intake, like a carb. In an OE
application, the excess fuel is returned to the tank so that it will
shower the in-tank pump, cooling it when the fuel levels are low.
This cooling is key to longevity of the pump. In-tank pumps also
run more quietly, with noise dampened by fuel, in an enclosure,
hanging on brackets, from the frame. A frame mounted pump will
amplify noise through the frame rail, only camouflaged by loud
music or mufflers.
Another important part of OE EFI fuel systems is the baffle in the
tank. Again, without that reserve of fuel at the engine, like a carb,
an EFI system must never suck air while accelerating, turning or
stopping , when fuel levels are low. The baffle keeps fuel from
running away in these maneuvers. While there are aftermarket
modifications for non-EFI tanks, the low cost of a new EFI tank
makes it impractical to keep existing tanks.

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Fuel System (2 of 2)
For trucks with dual tanks, the tank selector valve is rated for 75
psi, but must have six ports for the return fuel if the regulator is
retained on the fuel rail. The correct valve is found in 1987+
models.

Fuel Lines
If you happen to have an ‘87 model, you already have almost
everything needed. Hard lines are a must for both supply and
return lines. If you don’t have them, you can order replacements
for an ‘87 easily enough, or get lucky in the salvage yards. In any
case, minimize the amount of soft line used.
When selecting fuel hose, be very wary of what’s being marketed
as fuel line. One online performance supply offers a blue push-lock
compatible hose that is not compatible with gasoline (their catalog
page even says so!). It is just high grade air hose, and incompatible
with fuels. Our preference is Gates Barricade Fuel Injection hose. It
is good for ALL FUELS and 250 psi. It is not push-lock compatible,
so use quality clamps, or check out a tool called Clamp-Tite on
YouTube.
Stock fuel rails work fine until you really up the horsepower, so
just look to Russell Fittings for the adapters to connect –AN fittings
to the rail and hard lines at the frame. TBI applications have a
metric connector on the hard lines, 16mm for the supply, 14mm
for the return.

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Electrical (1 of 3)
The factory electrical components are usually located on the left
fender, in LS trucks. Taking advantage of this can simplify
underhood wiring in your LS swap. Battery cables, which include
the alternator charge wire and fuse, ECM, fuel and A/C relays,
cruise control, etc., all can be positioned on the driver side
fender. A driver side battery tray was used in ‘73-’87 diesel
applications, and makes a great addition. Additionally, the top
radiator hose and battery, now on the left, has cleared a path to
the right for the air intake tube. With about a foot of 4” tubing,
an elbow and a couple of rubber couplers, the air filter can rest in
the original battery tray, on the right.
Like the battery, the ECM was originally on the left fender in
most LS trucks. Placing it near the battery is easy on the left
fender. If desired, it can also be mounted under the dash, passing
through the firewall just to the right of the intake, although this
will require a number of long wire runs, depending on where
relays and fuses are mounted. It is typically helpful to extend the
harness by 12” to 24”, allowing more flexibility in ECM
placement.
ECM harness selection is another choice where everyone has an
opinion and, seemingly, no two are alike. A new harness typically
runs about $500, with fully customized versions as high as $1000.
Cheaper options usually have basic features omitted, so read the
fine print. A “rebuilt’ or converted OE harness is our preference.
You get OE quality wire and components, and retain whatever
options you desire to keep. It can be challenging to rework a
harness, so leaving it to a pro is recommended. The time and
frustration saved is well worth the money spent. 12
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Electrical (2 of 3)
This is also an opportunity to determine what features you want
to keep. For a factory like installation, we like to keep the ECM
controlled A/C relays, compressor and cruise control. With
careful attention to detail, the LS systems can be fully integrated
with the OE truck wiring so that everything looks and works like
original from behind the wheel.
Gauges are easier than you think. In 1997-2000 GM models,
factory gauges still used resistance type instruments, while also
providing 5 vdc reference signals to the ECM. This means that
correct selection of sensors enables your original dash to work
quite well. Use a 3 wire temp sensor from ‘98 Camaro, with the
matching pigtail. (tell your harness builder). Connect the OE
gauge to the third wire, while the other two feed the ECM. Pick
up a 16mm to 1/8” NPT adapter to install your OE oil pressure
sensor on the LS block at the back of the intake. That ‘87 fuel
sender/pick-up assembly mentioned earlier feeds your stock fuel
gauge. Your OE volt gauge wire just needs a “key-on” power
source near the battery. Reroute this from the old alternator
connector. The ECM has a processed tach signal output that is
compatible with most OE and aftermarket tachometers. The
speedometer permits options. Easiest: keep the cable, and spend
some bucks on a Speedo drive module (not cheap, but simple);
Or, swap an electric speedo from a ‘89+ Suburban into the dash.
You might find it easier to swap the whole cluster, but that comes
with reorganizing all the wires in the cluster plug. (another write-
up) This is one way to get a factory MIL (malfunction indicator
lamp), also known as “check engine” light.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Electrical (3 of 3)
Cruise Control requires a little work, but is easy enough. Cable
operated throttles should use a servo module from ‘89-’94 model
GM vehicles, with some under-dash re-routing of wires. (that’s
another write-up, too) Electronic throttle engines can simply feed
the cruise stalk wiring to the correct wires on the ECM, which
manages cruise without an external servo/module.

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Tuning
Success in any LS engine swap is measured in the driving
experience. When you get done, you either have a seamless
experience, very much like the late model truck that donated
it’s engine, or you have a drive fraught with bugs and hiccups,
with reliability issues that do nothing to inspire confidence.
Here are some considerations…..
Many harness makers offer a “base tune” or ECM re-flash.
Don’t confuse this for all the tuning you will need. This is just
enough to get you running, and even if every other aspect is a
very close match to your needs, there are too many
improvements to be made in tuning to your particular case.
Budget $500 for this, after your swap is complete. Here’s why..
The donor truck had 31” or larger tires, a 3.73 gear ratio, and
weighed 5000-6000 pounds. Your truck has 28” tires, 3.08 gears,
and weighs 3900 pounds. Shift points? Firmness? How much of
the transmission tune will work properly? (from experience, not
much!)
The donor ran a factory air intake, and a really, really long 3”
exhaust, dual cats, and a huge, restrictive muffler. Your truck has
what amounts to a VERY high flow air intake, and 2.5” duals, no
cats, and a pair of VERY high flow mufflers, dumping ahead of
the rear wheel. Do you think there are tuning opportunities? Oh,
yeah!
Ever heard of “Torque Management”? This is the factory
Nanny. It’s only job is to ensure you don’t over-stress the
powertrain with your maniac driving. Yeah, you turned off
traction control, but you have NO IDEA how much power can be
unleashed with skilled tuning of Torque Management settings. 15
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Air Conditioning
There are many opinions about the best way to execute Air
Conditioning. Most seem to hinge on engine placement. If a
stock engine and transmission location are used, relative to the
firewall, the right side engine mount will interfere with the LS
Truck compressor mount on the lower right side of the block.
This will require an aftermarket bracket to move the compressor
up higher on the right side. Both the OE R4 compressor and
Sanden compressors are commonly used in this position. The
brackets can range in cost from $160, to well over $300.
One of the original objectives of the Tejas SteelWorks engine
mount adapter plates was to retain the low mount compressors,
as it comes with the LS Truck engine assemblies. Our mounting
plates position the engine far enough forward to clear the
interference between the mounting stand and the compressor,
and high enough to allow the compressor to tuck inside the
frame rail, with reasonable clearance for hoses. A very minor
notch in the top edge of the frame permits the hoses to exit
straight away from the compressor. They should have 4” to 6” of
hard line, before going to rubber hose. The outlet line (smaller)
should bend forward at 90-120 degrees. The inlet line (larger)
should just have a straight line, with a large loop in the hose to
relieve any strain before heading back to the evaporator case.
Our installation uses a Denso 10S17F type compressor, like those
used on a 2003 LS Truck, with two separate port fittings.
Compressor controls can be managed by the early OE system, or
by the LS ECM. High and Low pressure switches will be OE, for
whichever method you choose.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (1 of 6)
Engine – 1999+ 4.8L, 5.3L, 6.0L or 6.2L
Any LS engine can be used. Truck engines are preferred for
better availability, lower cost, and torque production
Engine gaskets – Fel-Pro or GM
Unless you score a real cherry, take time to reseal everything
but the heads. Easier now than later! Make sure you get the
o-ring on the oil pick-up in the pan.
Transmission – 4L60e, 4L80e, 6L80e, and their derivatives, T-56
Any GM manual or automatic can be used. It is the 21st
century, and we have 85 mph speed limits, so get with the
program. The ECM already manages a transmission.
Torque converter & Flex-Plate (included with engine/trans)
If you bought a complete take-out, skip this. If you need to
mate an early automatic, you have some homework to do.
There is a spacer kit from GM Performance that makes it
easy: 12563532K
Transmission seals, gasket and filter
You are about to put $100 of fluid into this thing. Do the filter
and seals. Valvoline Max-Life transmission fluid is great.
ECM – Best if it matches engine and trans, less tuning
The biggest unknown is tuning. Keep it to a minimum by
using the ECM that came with the engine & trans. There are
two states of tune: a BASE tune deletes stuff you don’t want,
and unlocks any anti-theft features. It will get you up and
running. A full tune will include tire diameter, gear ratio,
torque management, shift behavior, air/fuel ratios, timing
maps, etc. This is where power and fuel economy come from.
$500, make sure they work on a dyno. 17
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (2 of 6)
ECM Harness – reworked original, keep A/C, cruise, etc.
Many will advise a new harness, or a simple kit, even DIY. You
will save yourself a lot of heartache by letting a pro handle it.
If full factory integration is what you have in mind, your
harness supplier will need to know what you plan to keep.
A/C, cruise and full instrumentation are easy enough, with
some planning. Beware adverts claiming low prices. They
usually add on $50 for each box you check, use cheap plastic
loom, and the lowest cost wire. GM wire and terminals are
what you want. Braided loom makes a huge difference in
appearance and longevity. This is the nervous system for
your pride and joy. Spend some money! $450-$650
reworked, $1000+ new. We use Lone Star Dyno!
 Slip Yoke & Driveshaft – get this from engine donor, should be
larger and longer, cut to size & rebalance. Other engine
mounts allow you to reuse your stock shaft. So the money
can be spent on expensive A/C brackets, leaving you with a
30+ year old, undersized driveshaft; Or keep the stock A/C
bracket and spend some money beefing up the driveshaft.
Motor Mounts & adapters – factory clamshell mounts and
covers; When used with Tejas SteelWorks adapter plates, the
covers require a clearance notch to accommodate a square
protrusion on the side of the block. This protrusion interferes
with the cover on the lower, forward corner, on both sides.
Transmission mount – The stock mount for any 2wd LS
application is a single stud biscuit. This works with the
majority of installations.
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (3 of 6)
Transmission cross-member – Stock or aftermarket
Factory cross-members work fine, but may need relocation,
depending on transmission used. The pilot build was
developed with the factory cross-member in the rear most
location, and mounted a 4L80e. The Tejas SteelWorks cross-
member was developed specifically to simplify dual exhaust
installation. Other aftermarket solutions range in cost and
complexity.
Radiator – Stock types, HD option recommended
Our preference is the OE 454 HD cooling option. In ‘87
models, it happens to be the same construction used with
the LS engine. It has an aluminum core and plastic tanks. This
design is well proven, and works wonderfully in the pilot
build. Copper/Brass radiators are our second choice, but
come with quite a price tag. All aluminum radiators are all
the rage, but cost a good deal more than the OE types, and
the less expensive offerings have been known to react with
coolant and coolant additives. Again, buy quality. In this case,
it’s also the least expensive. Spectra Premium!!!
Radiator mount – stock types, if 454 HD option above is
desired, radiator mountings should match. The one piece top
plate for the 454 applications requires a shroud to anchor
the rear edge. The Tejas SteelWorks fan shroud is designed to
attach here, and support twin fans. LMC Truck
Electric fans – various factory or aftermarket
Any number of OE fans can be fitted. The Tejas SteelWorks
fan shroud can accommodate most. Our favorite is the ‘93-
’97 Camaro/Firebird V8 fan. 19
Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (4 of 6)
Upper hose - Varies by waterpump used, minor trimming req.
With LS Truck pump: Gates 22436
Or with 2010 Camaro pump: Gates 23080
Lower hose - Gates 22437, minor trimming req.
Heater hose – 5/8” & 3/4” standard heater hoses ~36”
Hose clamps - typical for engine application
Waterpump – AC Delco 251734 , add steam vent fitting
Routing radiator hoses, Air intake pipe and accessory drive
belts in the same space can be tricky. The LS truck
waterpump works, but creates some clutter all around the
front of the engine. A 2010 Camaro waterpump moves the
top water neck to the driver’s side, and allows a shorter hose
that costs less. It does require relocating the idler pulley
down and out, to position it between the alternator and
power-steering pulley. This can be accomplished with a
spacer and longer bolt on the center of the accessory
bracket, or with a small kit from Dirty Dingo, $30.
Thermostat – stock for LS
Included with 2010 Camaro pump in AC Delco kit.
Tensioner and pulley – for Camaro pump, AC Delco 12628025
Cooling Fan relays, A/C Compressor relay – AC Delco 12167112
These are the best, period. They are pricey, so shop Ebay and
Amazon. Replacement relays are readily available at any
parts store, and at half the cost of this kit, which includes a
weatherproof pigtail. It mounts with one screw.

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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (5 of 6)
Transmission cooler lines – factory, modified
In the pilot build, we utilized the stock cooler lines for a
TH400, cut and flared just behind the torque converter for
inverted flare fittings, adapted to –AN fittings. We replaced
the quick connect fittings on the transmission case with –AN
fittings, and made up short soft lines in the same fashion as
the fuel lines, using transmission cooler hose.
Shifter linkage– Lokar ACA-1800
Exhaust manifolds – Hooker Cast Iron Manifolds 8501-?
Available raw for $300, ceramic coated for $400
Bolts- ARP 134-1102
Collector studs- 10mm-1.5 (4) w/ nuts & lock washers
Collector gasket- GM 92202326 (2)
Exhaust gaskets – stock LS, Felpro MS92467
Exhaust system – Various The pilot build has a full stainless
system, 2.5” duals w/ X-pipe, custom down-pipes, 6” flex joints
Mufflers – DynoMax Super Turbo 17629 (2.5” stainless)
 Alternator - stock
Power steering pump – stock LS truck
swap metric check valve on back of pump with SAE valve
from your early pump
Power steering hoses – stock ‘73-’87
A/C compressor- DENSO 4710315, or equivalent (10S17F type)
A/C relay - AC Delco 12167112, again
A/C hoses – Custom
Accy brackets – LS truck, w/ LS3 waterpump, use Dirty Dingo LS
Truck Idler RelocationBracket kit (DD-LS-IRB)
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Tejas SteelWorks Square Body GM LS Swap Guide

Parts List (6 of 6)
Accy drive belt – w/ 2010 Camaro pump, Gates K061015
May vary slightly with optional power-steering pulley
A/C drive belt- LS truck, Gates K040378HD
Air intake tube & elbows, clamps - intakehoses.com
3.75” to 4”bushing, 4” 90* elbow, 4” 22.5* elbow, clamps
Air Filter – Spectre cone filter, 8132-L, 8136-L, 9732-L or 9736-L
Fuel Tank – ’87 GM truck, Spectra Premium!!!
Fuel pickup assembly – ’87 GM truck, Spectra Premium!!!
Fuel Pump – Walbro 255 LPH, high pressure, 5CA400HP
Fuel Filter – stock ‘87 (matches ‘99 truck)
Fuel Lines (hard & soft) – OE steel, Gates Barricade EFI hose
Fuel Line Adapters – Russell 611203 & 611253 at fuel rail,
640820 & 640830 at frame rail ( with TBI hard lines)
Battery Tray – driver side OE type, LMC Truck
Temp sensor – ’98 Camaro V8 (3 wire), and pigtail
Sensor- 12551708, tx111, or tu280
Pigtail- pt2319, s619, or 1p1065
Oil pressure sensor – ’73-’87, AC Delco 19244932
with metric adapter Autometer 2268
Speedometer – ’91 Suburban (cluster swap) ‘81+ only
Cruise Module/Servo – ’89-’94 GM truck
This is easiest to interface with OE cruise switches on turn
signal stalk. Enquire for more info.
Plugs & Wires – stock LS
MAF Sensor, IAT sensor, O2 sensors, MAP sensor, VSS sensor

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