Alexandria Tzalas2018
Alexandria Tzalas2018
Harry Tzalas
email: htzalas@yahoo.co.uk
Abstract
Figure 1: Map of the Greek Mission concession area. The eight subsites are marked with numerals.
As expected, in the vicinity of two important harbors, the Eunostos and the Megas
Limin,2 remains of maritime activities scatter the sea floor at several locations. However
due to the rise of the Mediterranean Sea level3 and the subsidence of the coast there
are also a wide variety of submerged ancient remains ranging from extended paved sur-
faces, foundations of large structures, architectural elements, some of colossal dimensions,
necropolises, stone quarries and fisheries. We will focus on those submerged remains.
Starting from the westernmost point and moving eastwards this area has been divided
into 8 sub-sites bearing the today’s names of the suburbs where they are located and of a
reef.
At Chatby 1 nowadays submerged, once stood Akra Lochias that formed the eastern
boundary of the Eastern Port and was part of the Royal quarters (Figures 2–4). According
1
Athenaeus, The Deipnosophists, 982.
2
Eunostos is the port of the “good return”, today’s main commercial harbor, while the Megas Limin,
Portus Magnus of the Romans, Mina el Sharky during the Islamic period gradually fell in disuse.
3
The Mediterranean Sea level rises by approximately one meter every 1000 years, starting from the
melting of the glaciers some 10.000 years ago.
to ancient sources a small temple dedicated to Isis Lochias, the Mausoleum built by
Cleopatra VII, and a Palace stood on that headland.4 At depths varying from 2m to 10m
some 400 architectural elements of different sizes were found. It is difficult to ascertain
which are in situ and which were brought at different times from the neighboring littoral and
dumped there in a desperate attempt to keep above water level the gradually disappearing
eastern breakwater of the port. It is witnessed on all maps of the 18th , 19th , century up to
the early 20th century that the Silsileh promontory was not a unified wide surface, as it is
today, but a series of minuscule islets, just at sea level, which were connected by narrow
couloirs (earlier by wooden bridges) that allowed access to the derelict little fort on its
tip.5 It is only in the 1910s during the construction of the Corniche that this promontory
was widened to its today’s dimensions by dumping heteroclite stones, including numerous
ancient remains scattered on the neighboring coast.6
We have also to bear in mind that the action of the waves, the swell, as well as some
intense tsunamis that hit Alexandria with tragic consequences have certainly affected the
position of those ancient architectural elements on the sea floor.7
Because of their weight and as they were found at greater depths we believe that
the tower of a dwarf pylon (Figure 5) and its monolithic flight of steps (Figure 6), a
monumental base (Figure 7) as well as the architrave or threshold of an oversized door
(Figure 8), all made of red granite, lie very near to their original location. It is most
probable that the pylon was part of the entrance of the Temple of Isis Lochias8 and that
the threshold/architrave could have been part of the monumental door of Cleopatra’s
mausoleum where she met her tragic death with Mark Anthony.9
It is difficult to ascertain if the 7 large blocks of calcite, which once formed part of a
Sed-ceremony monument, with pharonic representations and hieroglyphs (Figures 9, 10),
including the name of Amasis a Pharaoh of the XXVIth dynasty, as well as an 8th made of
red granite representing a headless torso, stood originally on Akra Lochias or if they were
brought from an unknown location in the town.10 Same question as to their provenance
arises for the remains of three mutilated “naiskoi” made of black granite. Two which are
nearly complete bear perforations at their lower part, (Figures 11, 12) a clear indication
of having been re-used as tannery basins during the Islamic times.11 Besides those heavy
artifacts which were raised up, photographed, drawn and studied there are some 400 blocks
and slabs that once pertained to imposing structures as well as some catapult stone balls
and a few mediaeval stone anchors found at the eastern boundaries of that submerged
promontory.
Except for the pylon tower and its flight of steps that went through a long conservation
process and are now exhibited in the archaeological site of Kom el Dikka (Figure 13) all
4
Strabo, Geography, 28,9; Plutarch, Lives. Anthony, 74.1 and 77.
5
See plan de la Ville d’Alexandrie, dressé par les services de la Municipalité, 1902, in Jondet Pl. L.
6
The divers of the Greek Mission have repeatedly seen large broken ancient architectural elements in
cavities under the eastern side of Silsileh Promontory, beyond the protective line of modern cement blocks
which were dumped in the 1960’s .
7
As the tsunami of the 365 AD. reported by Ammianus Marcellinus.
8
Fragaki 2011.The pylon tower as well as the monolithic flight of five steps are exhibited today at the
Kom el Dikka archaeological site.
9
Plutarch, Lives. Anthony; Dion Cassius, Hist. Rom. L I.8.
10
Gallo 2010, 64-88.
11
The area of Chatby and Ibrahimieh, extending outside the eastern walls was used in the mediaeval
times for tannery activities.
Figure 2: Map showing the side scan sonar survey conducted by the Department of Marine Geology
of the Patras University in the wider area of the approaches of Alexandria Eastern Port.
Figure 3: Map of submerged Akra Lochias based on the Greek Mission surveys.
other architectural elements were placed again on the sea floor due to lack of space for a
permanent exhibition.12
At Chatby 2 we have traced a variety of submerged ancient remains, most foundations
of buildings, paved areas, some architectural elements as well as a few stone anchors. The
fact that in the early Christian times there was a large complex of buildings that included
the assumed Martyrium of Evangelist Mark13 is attested by two proto-Christian capitals
(Figures 14, 15), some columelae as well as a most interesting nearly complete “Sygma
table” made of red granite.
During our 5th campaign of November 2000 and the 6th of June 2001 two trenches
were opened on the sandy beach, west of the Chatby Casino and a large quantity of pottery
sherds were found, all dating to the early Byzantine period. The church built on the alleged
martyrium of evangelist Mark is represented on the earliest view we have of Alexandria,
the Codex Urbinate 277 that dates to 1472 (Figure 16) as well as on the plan of Simacas
dating to 1605.
There is an extended reef at sub-site Ibrahimieh 3 at a depth of some 12m and
approximately 500m distant from the shore. Some 70 stone anchors of different shapes and
sizes resulting from fishing activities in Islamic times as well as a large composite dating to
Late Hellenistic or early Roman Times were found entangled in cavities of this reef.14
Between the above mentioned reef and the shore lied, just under sea level, an extended
12
We are permitted to raise and store any artifact weighing 100 kg or less.
13
Martin 2002, 45-49.
14
Tzalas 2015, 106-113.
Figure 4: Map indicating the ancient remains of Akra Lochias and the modern Silsileh Promontory.
A. Adriani, Annuario del Muséo Gréco-Romano, 1932-1933.
Figure 5: The Tower of the Pylon lying on the sea bed (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 6: The monolithic flight of steps leading to the pylon (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 7: The monumental base lying on the sea bed (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 8: The oversized threshold or architrave while raised for study on a floating platform
(Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 9: Raising an inscribed block of calcite, part of a Sed ceremony monument (Photograph
HIAMAS).
Figure 10: A block that formed part of a Sed ceremony monument, with a Pharaoh head wearing
the white crown, raised for study (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 11: A mutilated “naiskos” with two perforations witnessing to its reuse as a tannery basin
(Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 12: A mutilated “naiskos” and other architectural elements raised for study on a floating
platform (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 13: The pylon tower and its monolithic steps as exhibited at Kom el Dikka archaeological
site (Photograph).
Figure 14: Raising a large byzantine capital from Chatby 2 sub-site (Photograph HIAMAS).
Figure 15: A smaller byzantine capital raised from Chatby 2 sub-site (Photograph HIAMAS).
stone quarry. This is sub-site Ibrahimieh 4 that has been nearly totally reclaimed by the
recent widening of the Corniche road. It was probably one of the largest stone quarries of
Alexandria and its remains coexisted with a limited number of burials (Figures 17, 18). As
for all costal quarries there is a gentle slope towards the sea and the submerged depths at
the time of our survey varied from half a meter on the littoral to some two meters at the
deeper ends followed by a sudden depression into the sea of some 4 meters.
The original quarrying activities must date to ancient times, possibly to the Hellenistic
period and may have continued during the Roman years with an intricate system of
quarrying basins and canals for the sea transportation of the extracted blocs. As the
quarry remains continue under and beyond the old Corniche which was opened in the early
20th century it cannot be excluded that, as for other areas of the littoral, the quarrying
activities were resumed at the time of Mohamed Ali, when cosmopolitan Alexandria started
developing.15
Sub-site Sporting 5 has been partially affected by the recent Corniche widening as
concrete blocks were dumped in the sea as buttresses to the action of the waves, covering
some 10% of the visible foundations of ancient structures. At a depth of some 2m the lower
structure of a paved rectangular building divided in three parts can be seen, as well as the
remains of foundations of two semi-circular structures –part carved in the rock and part
built– adjacent to its western end (Figures 19, 20). The use of this complex has not yet
been understood as the area was only superficially surveyed. It could well be possible that
those are the remains of fish tanks.
El Hassan 6 is a reef locate at some 500m Northeast of Cape Silsileh, it represented
in antiquity –with the El Nassar and other shoals in its vicinity, a hazard to navigation, as
15
Neroutsos 1872, 24.
it protruded on the course of ships entering and sailing out of the Eastern Port. El Hassan
as well as the other eight adjoining reefs are drawn as shoals on the earliest cartographic
document we have of Alexandria, the Codex Urbinate made in 1472. As nowadays the
top of this reef lies at some 10m under sea level one wonders how in a matter of only
500 years such an important subsidence occurred! The rise of the Mediterranean Sea for
those five centuries would not exceed 50cm and although it is most probable this late 15th
century view draws on an older map still the subsidence is important and differs from the
remaining submergence pattern of that littoral.
Sub-site Sidi Bishr 7 starts westwards at the Bay of the Automobile Club; include
the promontory known as Bir Masaoud, the devil’s well –the ventilation shaft– of a large
hypogeum tomb (Figures 21, 22) that was part of a today’s submerged vast necropolis
extending for some 200 meters into the sea. Eastwards it reaches the islet of Gezireh Gabr
el-Khour now called Miami Island. Quarrying marks are noticeable all over Bir Masaoud
promontory and its immediate vicinity witnessing to the fact that at an undetermined
period all the area of this necropolis was used for stone extraction. On the islet a hypogeum
tomb dating to Hellenistic times, with a courtyard, a burial chamber and steps, all carved
in the rock was excavated (Figures 23–25).There are most impressive deep couloirs, partly
submerged, carved in the rock of the northern side of this islet (Figure 26) and what is
certainly a fish tank is visible at its eastern end (Figure 27). This fish tank is slightly
submerged; just the rise of the sea is noticeable. That islet, and the protective cove it
forms with the littoral, is first marked on a map of the Portolan of Piri Reis, the Kitaby-l
Bahariyeh (Figure 28) compiled in 1513.16 Sidi Bishr is at some 10km distance from Cape
Silsileh and the El Hassan Reef and its lack of significant submergence attests that there is
no uniformity in the subsidence of the eastern Alexandrian coast.
The last sub-site Mandara 8, adjacent to Montaza promontory, was known in antiquity
as Lesser Taposiris. It was recently dramatically affected by the dropping of large concrete
blocks and is expected to be surveyed during one of our future campaigns.
It should be stressed that in between all those eight sub-sites there are extended sea
areas that have not yet been searched.
1.1 Addendum
Realizing the importance of the geophysical phenomena, understanding their complexity
became a priority for our surveys and led to a close cooperation with the Mariolopoulos-
Kanaginis Foundation for Environmental Studies and our last six campaigns were jointly
conducted. Leading scientists in the field of geophysics, including two members of the
Academy of Athens, Prof. Christos Zerefos and Prof. Costas Synolakis as well as Dr. Christos
Repapis and Prof. Niki Evelpidou cooperated with the Deputy leader Mr. George Nomikos,
the responsible archaeologist Dr. Eirini Chryssocheri and the other members of the Greek
Mission.
16
Piri Reis, Kitab-I Bahriye, The Historical Research Foundation, Istanbul Research Centre, 1988.
Figure 22: Bir Masaoud Promontory at Sidi Bishr, sea access of the hypogeum tomb (Photograph
HIAMAS).
Figure 23: Gezireh Gabr el-Khour, plan of the excavated tomb (By Awad Enterprises).
Figure 24: Gezireh Gabr el-Khour, steps leading to the tomb after excavation (Photograph
HIAMAS).
Figure 25: Gezireh Gabr el-Khour, interior of the tomb during the excavation (Photograph
HIAMAS).
Figure 26: Deep couloirs carved on Gezireh Garb el-Khour (Photographs HIAMAS).
Figure 28: View of Alexandria of the portolan of Piri Reis showing Gezireh Gabr el-Kour, midway
between the Eastern Port and Abu Kir.
Abbreviations
ENALIA = The Journal of the Hellenic Institute of Marine Archaeology.
HIAMAS = The Hellenic Institute of Ancient and Mediaeval Alexandrian Studies.
IFAO = Institut Français d’Archéologie Orientale.
Loeb = Loeb Classical Library, London, Cambridge.
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