J.P.

Coache Designs

Plan No. JP30-001

These plans are provided as a guide for someone with a good understanding and
knowledge of woodworking to build a twin-size bed in resemblance of a Jeep
vehicle. It is the sole responsibility of the builder to ensure that the finished
product is soundly built and safe to use as intended. By use of these plans, the
builder agrees that he/she is solely accountable for verifying the safety and
usability of all aspects of the design as presented, as well as the finished
assembly, and that the designer and provider of these plans has no liability to any
damages or injuries as a result of use of, or any actions during the construction
process and/or final use of the finished product.

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 Jeep Inspired Twin Bed
Model JP30-001

Material List

Note: This list of materials represents what I had used when I built this bed for my Grandson, and is
what was used to develop this set of plans. If you change any of the components due to availability,
personal preference, or if you find better options, make sure you make the proper adjustments as
needed for proper fit and function. You should purchase your components prior to cutting your lumber.

Lumber:
o 4’ x 8’ x ¾” Finish grade plywood, maple or birch, Qty.: 2 and ¼ sheets.
o Use Premium fir/pine structural, (framing) lumber. Look for straight boards with
minimal knots, twist, bow or other defects.
• 2 x 4 x 8’ Qty.: 7
• 2 x 6 x 4’ Qty.: 1
• 2 x 8 x 8’ Qty.: 2
o 1 x 4 x 8’ Pine or Poplar board, Qty. 4, for bed slats.
o 1 x 10 x 10’, Pine or Poplar board, Qty.: 2, cut to strips 3” Wide for tire treads
o 1 x 8 x 8’, Pine or Poplar board, Qty.: 4, for Windshield Trim Cap, Wheel Sidewall
Spacers, and miscellaneous components.
5
o /4 x 3 x 6’ Clear Pine, Qty.: 1

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Hardware:
o ¼”-20 x 7/16” Tee-Nuts, Qty.: 32 (See Amazon.com: Search CCTVMTST 80Pcs Zinc Plated
4 Pronged Tee T-Nut for Wood, Cabinetry, Rock Climbing Holds (1/4"-20 x 7/16")
o ¼”-20 x 2” Hex Head Bolts, Qty.: 12
o ¼”-20 x 2” Pan Head, Phillips Machine Screws, (Stainless Steel Preferred), Qty.: 14
o ¼”-20 x 2” Flat Head Bolts, (Stainless Steel Preferred), Qty.: 4
o ¼” Flat Washers, Qty.: 30 (Stainless Steel Preferred for use on exterior components)
o ¼” Fender Washers, Qty.: 4
3
o /8” x 4” Lag Bolts, Qty.: 8
3
o /8” Flat Washers, Qty.: 8
5
o /8” x 23/4” Hex Head Bolts, Qty.: 4
5
o /8” Hex Nut, Qty.: 4
5
o /8” Flat Washer, Qty.: 8
5
o /8” Split Lock Washer, Qty.: 4
o #6 x 1 ½“ Flat Head Wood or Deck Screws, Qty.: 40
o 18 GA x ¼” W x 1¼”Long Staples, (or similar size finish nails). Approximate Qty.: 526
o #9 x 21/2” Dual Thread Torque Screws, Qty.: 36
o #6 x 1½” Flat Head Wood Screws, Qty.: 20
o ¼” x ¼” Wood Plugs, Qty.: 36
o #12 x 4” Flat Head Wood Screws or Decking Screws, Qty.:4

Roll Bar Materials: (Purchased from FORMUFIT.com)

o 1 ½“ SCH40 PVC Pipe Furniture Grade # SKU P112FGP-BK-5 (Qty. 3)
o 1 ½“ SCH40 PVC 3-Way Tee Fitting # SKU F1123WE-BK (Qty. 2)
o 1 ½“ SCH40 PVC 45 Degree Elbow Fitting # SKU F11245E-BK (Qty. 4)

Lights and Misc. Components:

o LED Diodes and 430 Ohm Resistors for Headlight and Parking Light “Light bulbs.
 Purchased from Amazon.com: Search “EDGELEC 100pcs 5mm White Lights LED
Diodes”
o PCB boards for mounting LED diodes for Headlight and Parking Light “Bulbs”
 Purchased on Amazon.com: Search “Paxcoo Double Sided PCB Board
Prototype” (2) 50mm x 70mm and (1) 30mm x 70mm PCB Boards
o Headlight Lenses, removed from Feit PAR36 Bulbs, (use lens only).
 Purchased at Lowes Home Improvement Center.
 These can also be found on eBay: Search “36W Landscape Light Feit Electric
PAR36”
 (See Supplemental Instructions and Suggestions, Section 2.)
o Parking Light “Lenses”, 2” Round Reflectors, Amber
 Purchased on Amazon.com: Search “ZYHW Trailer Gate Reflector”
 (See Supplemental Instructions and Suggestions, Section 2.)
o Aluminum flashing, approximately .020” to .030” thick with shiny finish.
 Purchased at home improvement center.

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 o Rectangular Reflectors, Amber, Qty.: 2
 Purchased on Amazon.com: Search “Blazer B178SAW Rectangular Reflector”
o Fog Lights, 2”, White LED, 12VDC, Low Wattage Fixture, Qty.: 2
 Purchased on Amazon.com: Search “Partsam LED 2 Inch White Flange Mount
Marker Lights Truck Trailer”
o Barrel Jack Female Connector, Qty.: 1
 Purchased on Amazon.com : Search “HTTX 10-Pack 5.5mm x 2.5mm DC Socket
Female Jack”
o Rocker Switches DPST for Lights, Qty.: 2
 Purchased on Amazon.com : Search “ucell 5pcs 2 Position Boat DPST Rocker
Switch”
o AC/DC Adapter/Transformer: .
 Purchased on Amazon.com : Search “CUI INC Model SWI12-12-N” or similar.
 Output voltage: 12VDC at 1.0 Amp, 5.5mm x 2.5mm barrel jack, center positive.
o Miscellaneous spade connectors and T-Tap connectors for lighting wiring.
o LED Multi Color Lights for Undercarriage, (Not shown in plans. See Section 5)
 Purchased on Amazon.com : Search “econoLED LED Flexible Strip Lights,Strip
Lights, 16.4ft 300leds 5m Waterproof Adhesive Light Strips RGB Color Changing
SMD 3528 Ribbon Kit with 44key Remote with Power Supply”
o Hub Caps,
 Purchased from eBay: Search “4pcs/ Set Car Vehicle Rim Skin Cover 12inch Hub
Cap”
 SOLD BY: carmarket2014 (#232283453833)
o Epoxy, Loctite Heavy Duty 2-part epoxy, or similar.
 Purchase at most Home Improvement Centers and Hardware Stores
o Wood Glue: Titebond Ultimate, Waterproof, Interior/Exterior, or similar.
 Purchase at most Home Improvement Centers and Hardware Stores

Finishing:
o Use a good quality Primer/Sealer
 I recommend Sherwin Williams “ProBlock”
o Finish Paint
 I recommend Sherwin Williams “Duration” Acrylic Latex (Semi-Gloss)
o Mod Podge; Used to apply stencils & Wheel lettering, (Not shown in drawings)
 Purchase at Micheal’s or A.C. Moore Arts and Craft Centers
o Clear coat finish
 I recommend KRYLON Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating, This is to seal over any
stencils or lettering applied with the Mod Podge.
 Purchase at most Home Improvement Centers and Hardware Stores, or
 Purchase at Michael’s, or A.C. Moore Arts and Craft Centers

 Add Some Details with “Jeep” and “4x4” emblems as well as homemade tire brand lettering and
RUBICON, WRANGLER, TRAIL READY, etc., decals. See photos and suggestions on how to dress up
your Jeep-Bed later in these instructions. (See Section 4.)

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 SUPPLEMENTAL INSTRUCTIONS AND SUGGESTIONS

(NOTE: I recommend that you build and fit all sections together before applying any paint or finish. Once
you are satisfied with the final assembly, disassemble the bed and paint section individually and add
decals, (See Section 4). Let the finish dry thoroughly before assembling the finished bed.)

First complete the following sub-assemblies per drawings:

Drawing No JP20-001: Frame Base Assembly
Drawing No JP20-002: Side Panel Assemblies, (2) (Passenger Side and Driver’s Side)
Drawing No JP20-003: SEE ADDITIONAL LIGHT AND WIRING DETAILS IN SECTION 2.
Headlight LED Circuit Board Assembly
Parking Light Single LED Circuit Board Assembly
Switch Box Assembly (See Dwg. No. JP20-003, Sheet 5)
Wiring Harness (Also See Dwg. No. JP20-005, Sheet 5)
Drawing No JP20-004: Tailgate Assembly
Drawing No JP20-005: Front Grill Assembly
Drawing No JP20-006: Wheel Assemblies
Drawing No JP20-007: Windshield Frame Assembly
Drawing No JP20-008: Roll Bar Assembly

SECTION 1 – Assembly Notes: (Refer to each drawing for dimensions and basic instructions.)
1. Cut all components per dimensions on each group of drawings and assemble each section as
shown.
2. Assemble each of the sections to ensure proper fit before applying any finish paint.
3. Be sure to use straight, good quality grade of lumber with minimal knots, no cracks, twist or bow
for best results.

Support the Frame Base, JP20-001, so it is off the floor by approximately 12” to 14” inches to allow
wheel clearance. (Plastic 5 gallon buckets or milk crates work well for this.)
1. Install the Tailgate, (JP20-004), with the connecting bars facing inside the frame, by sliding the
lower end between the rear of the Frame Base and Rear Bumper with the two slots engaged
with the rear bumper mounts. Align the (2) T-Nuts in the Tailgate with the holes in the Rear End
Support of the Frame Base. Secure with (2) ¼” x 2” Hex Head bolts and ¼” Flat Washer. (Do not
tighten.)
2. Install the Front Grill Assembly, (JP20-005), in the same manner as the Tail Gate, making sure
that the lighting wires and connectors are fed down between the bumper and front frame
support and are not pinched. Secure with (2) ¼” x 2” Hex Head bolts and ¼” Flat Washer. (Do
not tighten.)
3. Mount the Side Panels, (JP20-003), by lining up the holes in each panel with the mating T-Nuts
installed in the Connecting Bars of the Tailgate and Front Grill assemblies. Secure each panel
with (4) ¼” x 2” Phillips Pan Head Machine screws and ¼” Flat Washer, and install (3) ¼” x 2” Hex

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 Head bolts with ¼” Flat Washer from inside the Frame Base into the previously installed T-nuts
in the lower edge of each Side Panel. (See drawing JP20-003.)
4. Once the Side Panels, Tailgate and Front Grill fasteners are lined up and these components are
squared and properly fitted, tighten all fasteners.
5. Mount the Windshield Frame by lining up the (3) 9/32” holes with the (3) ¼” Tee-Nuts in each
Side Panel and fasten with ¼” x 2” Pan Head Phillips Machine Screws and ¼” Flat Washer.

6. Fit the Roll Bar over the Roll Bar Mounts. This should be a snug fit.
7. Connect all of the wiring connections for the lights and plug in the AC/DC adapter to check that
all lights and switches are working.
8. Mounting the wheels; (Notes: remove Hub Caps, make sure the (2) ¼” holes in the wheel inner
side-wall are lined up with the corresponding (2) 5/16” holes in the Wheel Strut and the 5/8”
center bolt should be tight.) Line up the top 5/16” diameter hole in each Wheel Strut with the
Tee-Nuts in the bed Side Panels located near the top of each wheel well, and insert a ¼” x 2”
Hex Bolt using (1) ¼” Fender washer and (2) ¼” Flat Washers. The top of the Wheel Strut should
be even with the bottom surface of each fender top and the edge of the strut should be square
to the bottom edge of the Side Panels. Tighten the bolts. Do this for all 4 wheels, then remove
the supports so all wheels are on the floor to make sure they are all the same height and the
bed does not rock. Adjust if necessary.

9. Place the assembly onto your supports. Using a hand drill with a ¼” drill bit, drill (2) ¼” holes
from inside each wheel, using the (2) ¼” holes in the Inner Wheel Sidewall as a guide, through
the existing holes in the Wheel Struts, and through the Side Panel and Frame Side Rails. Screw
(2) 3/8” x 4” Lag Bolts with 3/8” Flat Washers from inside each wheel through the inner wheel
wall, and tighten. (Reference DWG. NO. JP30-001.) Mark each wheel and corresponding location
in an inconspicuous area so you will be able to reassemble in the same locations.
10. Once all components fit together properly, disassemble in reverse order. Finish sand all surfaces
and smooth out any sharp edges, and paint with your child’s favorite colors.

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SECTION 2 - Headlights, Parking Lights and Fog Lights
I removed the lenses off of a couple of Feit 36W PAR36 landscape bulbs because they looked to be
proportionally the right size and have the nice heavy ribbed texture in the glass that looks like a car
headlight. This had the best “headlight look” that I could find. I was lucky enough to find two of these on
a clearance rack at a Lowes Home Improvement center for $2.00 each. They are available on eBay.
There are other brands of similar bulbs available, however, many are constructed with a one piece glass
design which would require cutting the lens off with a diamond saw or other glass cutting tool.

USE CAUTION; Wear Safety Glasses and Protective Gloves!

First, carefully break a hole in the glass on the back side of the bulb near the terminals. Soak the bulbs
in a shallow bucket of distilled vinegar so the seam of the front lens is submerged. Pour more vinegar
inside of the bulb through the broken area. The acidity of the vinegar helps to soften the silicone seal
adhesive holding the lens to the bulb housing. I let mine soak for a few days, and then I carefully broke
away the rest of the back of the bulb, pealing the portions at the seal using a pair of plyers.

After removing the back of the bulb, scrape off any remaining adhesive from the lens with a putty knife.

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Build the circuit board LED lights by first inserting the LED leads into the PCB with spacing as shown in
DWG. NO. JP20-003 SHEET 2.
The following photos may look a bit crude in way of circuitry but it works for a DIY hobbyist.
Insert the LED leads so the longer leads, (+), in top row are all to the right and all (+) leads of the bottom
row are all to the left. This will give a little more space for soldering and running traces. Refer to the
“BACK VIEW” in DWG. NO. JP20-003 SHEET 2.

Fold the leads over with your fingers from under the board to hold the LED Diodes in place, and then
turn the board over. Now bend the leads of the resistors to line up with 4-hole spacing between leads
and insert them so one lead is next to the (+) lead of each LED and the other is toward the centerline of
the PCB Board.
Bend all of the negative, LEDs shorter leads, (-), so they extend in opposite directions toward the outer
edges of the board on both sides. Bend the positive, longer leads, (+), so each one overlaps the closest
leads on the adjacent resistor. Trim the (+) leads so the ends still contact the resistor leads.

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Solder each (+) lead to the resistor lead on the board. Solder traces to connect each of the leads on the
opposite side of the resistors so they are all connected in parallel. Run a trace to connect all of the (-)
LED leads, in parallel, bringing both (+) and (-) traces to the end of the board. Trim all excess lead ends.
Solder a short piece of 18 AWG wire, RED to (+) and BLACK to (-), as shown below.

Connect a 9V battery to your circuit to test.

NOTE: 9V battery connector shown in the photo below is for ease of taking the photo. Bare lead ends
can be just touched to the battery terminals to test the circuit.

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Next, cut out a circle from a thin piece of aluminum flashing or similar reflective material, with tin snips.
Extra-Heavy Duty tin foil could be substituted for the flashing, but I prefer the rigidity of the flashing.
Use the light lens to trace the proper size circle. Cut a matching circle of card stock or thin cardboard.
The backing sheet of a typical pad of paper works well for this.

Print a 1:1 scale copy of DWG. NO. JP20-003, SHEET 3, and cut out to use as a template.
Tape the flashing, cardboard, and template together, and drill (6) ¼” holes indicated on the template,
which should be evenly located to match the LED layout on the PCBs.

The “Parking Lights” were made from simple 2” round bicycle reflectors and a single LED Diode, as used
in the headlights.
First separate the amber plastic lens from the plastic-chrome back using a small common screw driver to
pry them apart. Remove the nut and bolt.

The bolt hole makes a perfect access for the 5mm LED Diode.

I used (1) 30mm x 70mm PCB Board, cut in half for the LED “bulb” boards. Scribe a line with a utility
knife at the center of the board, scoring it several times and then snap it in half. File or sand any sharp
edges.

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Center (1) LED Diode in each half-board and bend the leads from the back side to hold it in place.
Turn the board over and insert a resistor as described in the headlight instructions. Solder the positive
lead of the LED Diode to one side of the resistor, and then solder a piece of RED 18 AWG wire to the
other side of the resistor. Solder a piece of BLACK 18 AWG wire to the negative lead of the LED Diode.
Connect the wires to the + and – terminals of a 9V battery to test.

Build the wiring harness as shown in DWG. NO. JP20-005 SHEET 5, fitting the wiring into the channels in
the Grill Back Panel. Trim the wires on the lighting circuit boards to a length which will allow them to be
connected to the wiring harness without excessive length so that the slack will fit inside the cavities cut
out in the Grill Back Panel. Connect all spade terminals making sure that all positive and negative
connections match polarity. Connect the spade terminals to the rocker switches as shown in DWG. NO.
JP20-005 SHEET 5. Slide a 3” to 4” piece of shrink wrap tubing over the main power wire ends. Attach
the Barrel Jack to the main power wires at the bottom-center of the panel. The positive, RED, wire
should be connected to the center terminal. Solder the wires to the barrel jack terminals. Screw the
cover over the jack and slid the shrink wrap over the end and heat shrink with a heat gun.

Plug in the AC/DC adapter and test the switches and lights.

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SECTION 3 – Wheel Making Tips:
Refer to DWG. NO JP20-006; To make the wheels look more realistic, I cut a series of groves at a 30⁰
angle, crisscrossed, in each section to represent treads. I built a simple indexing jig that I positioned on
my radial arm saw for repeatability and to speed up the process. The design requires a total of 96 Tread
Sections. Each section requires 12 groves. (See DWG. NO JP20-006 SHEET 5.)
Take two pieces of board, approximately 16” long and assemble into an “L”-shape, length wise. (I
actually used a scrap piece of PVC exterior trim board left over from when I built my house, and
trimmed one edge down to about 1-1/4” high, which worked great.) Drill 6 holes at 1” increments, (I used
a ½” drill for a ½” dowel). Use a piece of scrap wood the same size as a tread section as a set-up piece.
Set the saw cross-cut angle to 30⁰. Set the height of the saw blade so it will just cut the top surface to
see a mark. Line up the first cut with the set-up piece against the dowel in the first hole so that the cut
will finish 1/8” from the end on the opposite edge, (See DWG. NO. JP20-006, SHEET 5). Adjust location if
needed. Clamp the fixture in position to maintain location and lower the blade to 1/8”to 3/16” depth and
make the first cut. If location looks good, index the dowel to each hole and cut 5 more grooves. The
grooves should be evenly spaced and evenly spaced at each end.

Cut all 96 tread sections, then change the cross-cut angle to 30⁰ in the opposite direction. Re-set the jig
position and check with the set-up piece and repeat the process to make a “hatch-pattern”.

I also made a fixture to guide the cutting of the (24) edges on the wheel side walls. I used an aluminum
disk, approximately 12” in diameter, but a piece of ¾” plywood would also work. Drill a 5/8” hole in the
center of the disk and layout a series of ¼” diameter holes at 4-1/2” radius from the center hole every
15⁰, (24 holes equally spaced on a 9” diameter circle). After rough cutting the finish plywood sections to
make the Wheel Sidewalls, drill the 5/8” hole and the (2) ¼” holes, as shown on DWG. NO. JP20-006
SHEET 4.

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Mount the jig on a radial arm saw table, or other suitable cutting tool, so the center of the 5/8” hole is 9-
3
/4” from the saw blade and (2) adjacent ¼” holes are parallel to the saw blade. (I screwed my jig right to
my radial-arm saw table once I located it in the correct position.)
Set one of the sidewall blanks on the jig with a 5/8” dowel, or bolt, through the center holes of the
sidewall and jig. Use a ¼” dowel, or drill bit, to line up one of the ¼” holes in in the Sidewall with one of
the holes in the jig, and clamp in position. Cut the first edge. Loosen the clamp and lift the ¼” dowel
enough to disengage it from the jig, rotate the sidewall 15⁰, push the dowel into the next ¼” hole
location in the jig and clamp in position. Make the next cut and repeat until all 24 edges have been cut.
(This should result in 24 edges 29/16” wide each.)
Once all (8) sidewall pieces have been cut, as above, cut out the 113/4” center on (4) of the pieces to
make the Outer Sidewalls. (See DWG. NO. JP20-006 SHEET 4.) Use a router to cut a ¼” radius on the
outside edge of the center hole. If you purchase a different size or type of hub cap than what I listed in
the materials list, make sure you adjust your parts accordingly. After assembling the wheels to DWG.
NO. JP20-006, SHEETS 2 and 3, use a belt sander to sand the outside diameter with an arc motion to
round down the outer surface. Then sand the sidewalls and edges smooth.

SECTION 4 – Making and applying lettering decals:

You can add a lot of detail with some simple homemade decals and/or purchased emblems. You can buy
nice chrome “Jeep” and “4 x 4” emblems on Amazon.com that come with peal and stick adhesive to
apply after painting. I used “Jeep” and “4 x 4” emblems, as well as added a couple of rectangular
reflectors to the front edge of the Front Fenders.
I made my own decals for the white lettering for the wheels and the black RUBICON decals for the side
panels, as well as a custom made license plate with my Grandsons name.
There are many free fonts that are downloadable on website like DaFonts.com and 1001fonts.com . For
the Goodyear lettering I used the “PHATT PHREDDY” font from Dafonts.com. There is also a font called
“BRADLEY GRATIS” on 1001fonts.com that looks very much like the Firestone lettering.
I printed the fonts on plain paper with my print set up for white outline on black background. After
painting the wheels black, I applied my decal lettering with Mod Podge, (See materials list).

First layout your lettering in position and mark the location with an inconspicuous marker. Move the
stencils aside and apply a coat of Mod Podge using a small tight nap roller to the wheel sidewall. Place
the letter stencils in position and carefully use a plastic squeegee to smooth out the stencil, removing
any air bubbles or excess Mod Podge from underneath. Then roll a thin coat of Mod Podge over the top
of the stencil. Let this dry completely. Once dry, apply a second coat of Mod Podge over the entire outer

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wheel wall surface and let it dry at least 24 hours. Apply 2 coats of KRYLON Crystal Clear Acrylic Coating,
(matte finish), over the sidewall to seal the surface.

Adding the removable Hub Caps creates hidden toy storage inside the Wheels with just a twist of the
Hub Cap to remove or lock in place.

For the license plate I did a little photo editing by starting with a picture of a state license plate from our
state RMV site and cropped in the name. I cut out a piece of ¼” plywood and rounded the corners and
painted it white. I then printed my photo edit on plain printing paper and cut it to the same size as my
plywood “plate”. I then laminated and sealed it using the same method with Mod Podge as describe
above.

SECTION 5 – Add a little more PIZAZZ :

Undercarriage lights – My final step was to add a very colorful LED light strip to the perimeter of the
undercarriage. This was simply a kit I purchase from Amazon.com, econoLED LED Flexible Strip Lights,
Strip Lights, 16.4ft 300leds 5m Waterproof Adhesive Light Strips RGB Color Changing SMD 3528 Ribbon
Kit with 44key Remote with Power Supply. This comes with a peal and stick adhesive on the back of the
LED strip, but I also secure it with 3/8” staples every 8” to 10”, starting at one of the back corners and
following the side, across the front and down the other side of the bottom surface of the 2x4s of the
Base Frame Assembly. This kit was just the right length for even distribution of the LED lights along both
sides and the front end. The Tailgate end is intended to be against a wall as the head-board. I attached
the remote control module under the rear bumper with a couple of small screws and let the remote
control antenna hang straight down. This kit puts a very colorful light display on the floor under the bed,
making it more exciting for your child, or grandchild.

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