Pattern Making of Ladies Jackets With Pa

ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education
Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University

Vol. 1, No. 1, 2013 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online)
https://sites.google.com/a/trakia-uni.bg/artte/
TOPICS CONTENTS
 MECHANICAL REVIEW ARTICLES

ENGINEERING METHODOLOGY FOR DELIVERING LESSONS USING
INTERACTIVE PRESENTATION SYSTEM,
 TECHNICS AND V. Stoykova, K. Georgieva, A. Ivanova 1
TECHNOLOGIES IN NOISE EMISSION LEVELS OF SMALL-CAPACITY
AGRICULTURE AND INTERNAL COMBUSTION ENGINE POWER UNITS,
TRANSPORT Z. Ivanov, M. Stoyanov 6
ENGINEERING PATTERN MAKING OF LADIES’ JACKETS WITH
PADDED SHOULDERS, Z. Kazlacheva 14
 FASHION AND TRADITIONAL FEATURES OF THE PINAFORE FROM
TEXTILE DESIGN THE REGION OF ELHOVO, G. Dolapchieva, S. Yanovska 21
AND VIRTUAL LAB FOR SYSTEMS MODELING AND
TECHNOLOGIES SIMULATION, V. Nedeva, Z. Zlatev, S. Atanasov 26
POSSIBILITIES OF WAVELET – TRANSFORMATION
 ELECTRICAL FOR ANALYSIS A TRANSITION THE
ENGINEERING, ELECROMAGNETIC PROCESSES,
ELECTRONICS AND N. Nedelchev, M. Dichev 31
AUTOMATICS CHARACTERISTICS OF GAS BURNER OPERATING
UNDER WATER-HEATING INSTALLATIONS,
 COMPUTER N. Georgieva, Z. Zlatev, I. Binev 36
TECHNOLOGY SMART GRID – TECHNOLOGY FOR SAVING MONEY,
K. Keremidchieva 42
 ENERGETICS AUTOMATIC FAULT DETECTION IN BREAD USING

COMPUTER VISION, K. Dobreva, Z. Zlatev, I. Dimov 45
FOOD CHOICE, COMPUTER KNOWLEDGE AND THE
TECHNOLOGY USEFULNESS OF E-LEARNING MATERIALS,

K. Krastev, R. Yorgova, S. Dineva 51
LIFELONG ECOLOGICAL DRIVING STYLE –
LEARNING FACTOR FOR ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION,
M. Pehlivanova, Z. Ducheva 57
ABOUT INTELLECTUAL CAPITAL IN MANAGEMENT the
“SOCIETY OF KNOWLEDGE", E. Dimova 64
EMPIRICAL INDICATORS OF SOCIAL PARTNERSHIP
IN THE SYSTEM OF CONTINUING PROFESSIONAL
EDUCATION, L. Tarasenko 69
INTENSITY OF TRAINING STUDENTS IN MAJOR
"ELECTRICAL ENGINEERING" IN FACULTY OF
TECHNICS AND TECHNOLOGIES OF YAMBOL,
T. Pehlivanova, K. Keremidchieva 74
RESEARCH EMPLOYABILITY OF STUDENTS IN
CROSS BORDER REGION BULGARIA-TURKEY,
I. Shivacheva, T. Pehlivanova 79
ARTTE Vol. 1, No. 1, 2013 ISSN 1314-8788 (print), ISSN 1314-8796 (online)
PATTERN MAKING OF LADIES’ JACKETS

WITH PADDED SHOULDERS
Zlatina Kazlacheva
Trakia University, Faculty of Technics and Technologies
Graf Ignatiev 38, 8600 Yambol, Bulgaria,
mobile: +359 89 8284462, e-mail: zkazlacheva@ftt.uni-sz.bg, z_kazlacheva@abv.bg
Abstract: According to the design form the more of the ladies jackets are designed with padded
shoulders and the shoulders’ height and pads’ height depends on the fashion trends. The paper
presents a new facilitating and correct way of pattern making of sleeve of constructional base which is
transformed for padded shoulders’ jacket. The facilitation is a result of the use of the basic sleeve of
the constructional base and dependence for determination of the extra sleeve cap height, according
the transformation of the constructional base. The dependence is got it the use of the multiple
regression. A facilitating and accurate mode of pattern making of base of raglan and kimono sleeves is
presented. The constructional mode use the transformed for padded shoulders bodice and sleeve
constructions. The accuracy and facilitation of the presented modes of transformation of classic one
piece or two pieces sleeve of constructional base with padded shoulders and constructing a base of
kimono, raglan, slopping shoulder and wedged sleeves give possibility quick, easy and correct pattern
making of new models lady’s clothing. It is a precondition for design variety because the designers can
focus their time on the creative process.
Keywords: lady’s clothing, pattern making, padded shoulders, sleeves.
1. INTRODUCTION
TСО laНТОs’ jaМkОts arО tСat typО of fОmalО МlotСТng wСТМС boНТМО form Тs strТМtОr tСan otСОr
typОs of laНТОs’ garmОnts. By tСТs rОason tСО morО of tСО laНТОs jaМkОts arО НОsТgnОd with
paННОН sСoulНОrs anН tСО sСoulНОrs’ СОТgСt anН paНs’ СОТgСt НОpОnНs on tСО fasСТon trОnНs.
The methodologies of Hans Andermahr [1] and System M. Muller + Sohn [2] offer accurate
pattОrn makТng of laНТОs’ garmОnts wТtС paННОН sСoulНОr. TСО way of transforming of the
bodice base is the same in the both constructional systems. The both methodologies suggest
transforming of parts of the bust dart of the front and the shoulder dart of the back in the
armhole. These transformations give extra volume of the armhole which is necessary for the
freedom of the arm motion and aesthetic form in the area of the armhole. The both
methodologies suggest rising of the shoulders for the pads. The main differences are in
slООvО МonstruМtТng. TСО AnНОrmaСr’s moНО Тs МСaracterized without use of the basic sleeve
of the constructional base. The new sleeve with bigger sleeve cap height is constructed. The
constructional mode of the system M. Muller + Sohn use the basic sleeve of the
constructional base, but the sleeve is split into 3 pieces.
The paper presents a new facilitating and correct way of pattern making of sleeve of
МonstruМtТonal basО wСТМС Тs transformОН for paННОН sСoulНОrs’ jaМkОt. TСО faМТlТtatТon Тs a
result of the use of the basic sleeve of the constructional base and dependence for
determination of the extra sleeve cap height, according the transformation of the
constructional base. The dependence is got it the use of the multiple linear regression.
A facilitating and accurate mode of pattern making of base of raglan and kimono sleeves is
presented. The constructional mode use the transformed for padded shoulders bodice and
sleeve constructions.
14
2. METHODOLOGY
The transformation of the constructional base, which is necessary for jacket with added
shoulders by methodologies of Andermahr [1] and Muller + Sohn [2] is presented in figure 1.
Parts of the bust dart of the front and the shoulder dart of the back are transformed in the
armhole: At the front the apex of the bust dart – point A1 is connected with most hollow point
of the armhole – point 1 with a line. The front is split in the line A1÷1. The segment between
line A1÷1 and the bust dart is rotated with centre of rotation point A1 on distance 1÷2 = 0,5-
1,5 cm, as this distance depends on the fashion trends and the model. At the back the apex
of the shoulder dart – point A2 is connected with most hollow point of the armhole – point 3
with a line. The front is split in the line A2÷3. The segment between line A2÷3 and the
shoulder dart is rotated with center of rotation point A2 on distance 3÷4 = 1÷2. The distance
3÷4 and 1÷2 Мannot bО Оqual somОtТmОs, but Тf Тs tСОy arОn’t Оqual, tСО НТffОrОnМО bОtwООn
their values is minimal. The extra height is added to shoulders as at the front 5÷6 = 0,5-0,7
cm and at the back 7÷8 = 0,7-1,0 cm. The distances 5÷6 and 7÷8 depend on the pad height
and the pad height depends on the fashion trends and the model. Depending on the fashion
trends the extra width to shoulders up to 1,0 cm can be added. The armhole over points 1
and 3 is formed with curved lines between points 1 and 6, and 3 and 8.
Figure 1. Transformation of the constructional base of the bodice

15
Figure 2 presents the transformation of the sleeve of the transformed constructional base of
padded shoulder jacket. At the basic sleeve of constructional base: Nf is the front notch on
the sleeve cap and the Nf÷Nf1 = 1÷2 from tСО transformОН МonstruМtТonal basО of tСО boНТce,
and Nf÷Nf1 is perpendicular to the line of the sleeve cap. Nb is the back notch on the sleeve
cap and the Nb÷Nb1 = 3÷4 from tСО transformОН boНТМО МonstruМtТonal basО, anН Nb÷Nb1 is
perpendicular to the line of the sleeve cap. The position of lines Nf÷Nf1 and Nb÷Nb1 and their
lОngtСs arО borrowОН from tСО AnНОrmaСr’s МonstruМtТonal moНО. NsС Тs tСО sСoulНОr notМС.
Nsh÷NsС1 is located in vertical direction and it is determined by formula (1):
Nsh÷Nsh1 = 0.4 . (1÷2 + 3÷4) + 0,5 . (5÷6 + 7÷8) (1)
In formula (1) 1÷2, 3÷4, 5÷6 anН 7÷8 arО from tСО transformОН boНТМО basО Тn fТgurО 1.
The formula (1) is received with the help of multiple linear regression on the base of pattern
making of the sleeve by methodologies [1], [2] and added extra height according to
connections in geometrical constructing and necessarily of bigger length of the line of sleeve
cap than the length of the armhole. 1÷2 anН 3÷4 arО pОrpОnНТМular to tСО sОam lТnОs. TСО
transformed sleeve cap is drawn with curved line between point 2 and 4 though points Nf 1,
Nsh1 and Nb1 as distance Nf1÷2 Тs Оqual to НТstanМО bОtwООn Nf anН sТНО sОam from boНТМО
construction in figure 1, or Nf÷1 at sleeve, and 3÷4 = 1÷2.
Figure 2. Transformation of the sleeve
16
3. PATTERN MAKING OF KIMONO AND RAGLAN SLEEVES
Kimono and raglan sleeves differ from each other in the place of design-constructional lines
– design-МonstruМtТonal sОams wСТМС form tСО slООvОs’ varТОty anН МonnОМt them with the
front and the back, and forming the underarms. The kimono sleeves are connected to the
bodice without seams. Actually the front sleeve and the front of the bodice form one piece,
and the back sleeve and the back form one piece too. The design-constructional seams go
across the front and the back or/ and the sleeves for forming the underarms. The raglan
sleeves are connected to the bodice with design-constructional seams between the
underarms and/ or near the neckline. The sloping shoulders sleeves are a special case of
kimono ones. In the sloping shoulders sleeves the design-constructional seams which form
the type and the underarms go across the sleeves under the real shoulders. The wedged
sleeves are a special case of raglan ones, which are connected to the bodice with design-
constructional seams between the underarms and the shoulders.
The fourth types of sleeves, kimono, raglan, slopping shoulder and wedged ones, are
designed on the one and the same constructional base and their rounded form in the
sСoulНОrs looks bОttОr Тn garmОnts wТtС paННОН sСoulНОrs. TСО AnНОrmaСr’s mОtСoНology Д1]
of pattern making the base of these types of sleeves of padded shoulder bodice is
characterized without use of the basic sleeve of the constructional base. A new two pieces
sleeve, a front piece and a back piece, is constructed after transforming of the bodice about
the padded shoulders. The system M.Muller + Sohn [2] use the basic sleeve, which is split in
two pieces of the front and the back. The two pieces are split again, each in two pieces, in
their setting to the transformed about padded shoulder bodice. The constructional mode [3]
uses the basic sleeve too, but with only one splitting.
Figure 3 presents a basic construction of kimono, raglan, slopping shoulder and wedged
sleeves of padded shoulders jacket on the base of transformed bodice constructional base
and transformed sleeve, shown in figures 1 and 2. That constructional mode is correct like
the methodologies [1], [2] and [3] but more facilitating. The transformed one-piece sleeve is
split with a vertical line between the sleeve cap and elbow line, which pass under the elbow
line into line parallel to the sleeve seam. The back sleeve is set on the back as the notches
Nb of the back and Nb1 of the sleeve coincide each other and distance between last shoulder
point of the back and the sleeve cap is 0,5-1,0 cm. The back shoulder and the split line of the
sleeve are connected with a protruding curved line. The front sleeve is set on the front as the
notches Nf of the front and Nf1 of the sleeve coincide each other and distance between last
shoulder point of the front and the sleeve cap is 0,5-1,0 cm. The front shoulder and the split
line of the sleeve are connected with a protruding curved line. The design-constructional
seams which form the kimono, raglan, wedged or sloping shoulder form start from the Nb
and Nf and they are drawn in different directions of forming of every type of sleeve.
For example the figure 4.1 presents a laНy’s jaМkОt wТtС raglan sleeves which are formed with
curved lines in the front and the back. Figure 4.2 shows the modelling of the jacket on the
constructional base, which is presented in figure 3. In figure 4.2 the neckline is sinking with
2,5 cm by shoulders. The V neckline on the front is formed with supply curved line. The bust
dart is transformed in the waist one. The width for clasp is equal to distance between the
front middle and the waist dart in the first point of the neckline, which is situated at 5,0 cm
over the waist. The curved line, which formed the raglan form in the front connect the
underarm (in Nf) and the front neckline at 5,0 cm under the shoulder. The shoulder dart of
the back is transformed in the back middle for better forming of the raglan form. After forming
it is transformed in the old place and is ignored for its minimal intake. The curved line, which
formed the raglan form in the back connect the underarm (in Nb) and the back neckline at
5,0 cm under the shoulder.
17
FТgurО 3. PattОrn makТng of a laНy’s paННОН sСoulНОr jaМkОt wТtС kТmono or raglan slООvОs
18
Figure 4.1. A laНy’s jaМkОt wТtС Figure 4.2. PattОrn makТng of a laНy’s jaМkОt wТtС
raglan sleeves raglan sleeves
19
Figure 5. A laНy’s jaМkОt wТtС raglan slООvОs, МonstruМtОН by the mode, presented in figure 3
FТgurО 5 prОsОnts a laНy’s jaМkОt wТtС raglan slООvОs, wСТМС pattОrn makТng Тs maНО usТng
the constructional mode, presented in figure 3. Raglan forms in the front and back are made
with curved lines, similarly to the neckline and design-constructional seams in the front.
4. CONCLUSIONS
The accuracy and facilitation of the presented modes of transformation of classic one piece
or two pieces sleeve of constructional base with padded shoulders and constructing a base
of kimono, raglan, slopping shoulder and wedged sleeves give possibility quick, easy and
correct pattern making of new models laНy’s МlotСТng.
It is a precondition for design variety because the designers can focus their time on the
creative process.
5. REFERENCES
[1] Andermahr H. (1988-1990). Schnittechnik. Bekleidun + Wasche, 1988-1990.

[2] System M. Muller + Sohn (1990-2003). Schnittechnik. Rundschau fur Internationale
Damenmode, 1990-2003.
[3] Kazlacheva Z. (2005). Methodology for Constructing of Kimono and Raglan Sleeves for
LaНy’s GarmОnt. Book of ProМООНТngs of 5tС WorlН TОxtТlО ConfОrОnМО AUTEX 2005,
Portoroz, Slovenia, June 27-29 2005, pp. 574-579.
20

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ARTTE Applied Researches in Technics, Technologies and Education

Journal of the Faculty of Technics and Technologies, Trakia University

 MECHANICAL REVIEW ARTICLES

PATTERN MAKING OF LADIES’ JACKETS

Figure 1. Transformation of the constructional base of the bodice

Nsh÷Nsh1 = 0.4 . (1÷2 + 3÷4) + 0,5 . (5÷6 + 7÷8) (1)

Figure 2. Transformation of the sleeve

3. PATTERN MAKING OF KIMONO AND RAGLAN SLEEVES

[1] Andermahr H. (1988-1990). Schnittechnik. Bekleidun + Wasche, 1988-1990.

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