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Sick-, well- and

Move the mind of fashion healed-baby
consumers with low environment appeals

saliency: use well- and

healed-baby appeals and increase
anticipated positive emotions Received 8 July 2022
Revised 7 November 2022
20 December 2022
Dooyoung Choi 5 January 2023
Accepted 28 January 2023
Department of STEM Education and Professional Studies, Old Dominion
University, Norfolk, Virginia, USA, and
Ha Kyung Lee
Department of Clothing and Textiles, Chungnam National University, Daejeon,
Republic of Korea

Abstract
Purpose – This study aims to investigate the effects of sick-, well- and healed-baby appeals used in fashion
products on purchase intentions through anticipated emotions. Consumers’ perceived saliency of the
environmental issues in the fashion industry was examined as an influencing factor that further explains
the persuasion of the advertising appeals.
Design/methodology/approach – Two sets of experimental studies were conducted with 201 participants
in Study 1 and 186 participants in Study 2.
Findings – The results demonstrated that well- and healed-baby appeals increased purchase intentions fully
mediated by anticipated positive emotions. In particular, the mediation effect was conditionally significant
when individuals’ saliency of environmental issues was low. The three types of advertising appeals did not
differ in consumers with high saliency for environmental issues. A sick-baby appeal did not induce purchase
intentions through anticipated negative emotions. The mediation effect of anticipated negative emotions did
not work with any appeal type.
Originality/value – Retail marketers can use the findings to create commercial messages to persuade their
fashion consumers. If the brand has consumers with low saliency, either educating consumers about the
importance of environmental issues in the fashion industry or using a well- or healed-baby approach in their
advertising can increase purchase intentions due to the increased anticipated positive emotions. Increasing
the threat level of environmental problems by using a sick-baby appeal would not work, as consumers’
anticipated negative emotions (e.g. feeling of guilt from not buying green products) would not convince them
to purchase the green product.
Keywords Green advertising, Anticipated emotions, Healed-baby appeal, Saliency of environmental issues,
Sick-baby appeal, Well-baby appeal
Paper type Research paper

Introduction
Environmental pollution is a major global concern. Along with governmental policies and
regulations, environmental sustainability requires shared responsibilities across all industries.
The fashion industry is a significant stakeholder in global environmental problems (Islam et al.,
2020). It is widely called out for many environmental issues around the world, such as textile
waste and chemical runoff (Davis, 2020). Together with the fashion industry, consumers of
fashion products are not free from blame for such pollution; US consumers throw away Journal of Fashion Marketing and
Management: An International
approximately 81 pounds of fashion products annually, which are sent to landfills or burned Journal
© Emerald Publishing Limited
(Beall, 2020). Also, consumers’ preference for fast fashion brands, which sell cheaply made, low- 1361-2026
DOI 10.1108/JFMM-07-2022-0140
JFMM quality products that last only for a couple of washes, is a direct representation of voting their
dollars to those companies which feed the beast of major environmental problems.
Amid the notoriety for the negative environmental impacts by fashion companies and
consumers, sustainable fashion products are considered better alternatives to help the
environment. Alternatively, some companies even use green demarketing approaches,
which encourage people to avoid unnecessary consumption (e.g. Patagonia’s “Don’t buy
this jacket” campaign; Kim et al., 2018). Because achieving a cleaner environment requires
collective efforts, consumers’ choice of product alternatives that are made with
environmental consciousness, in short, green products, is important. As a way to
persuade consumers to consider green products, advertisers address the severity of
environmental issues to provoke or heighten a need for action toward the problem. Fine
(1990) labeled this approach as a “sick-baby” appeal, which focuses on the environmental
problem. Another way is to address the benefits of green products. This approach is a “well-
baby” appeal (Fine, 1990), which focuses on the potentially positive effects of green
products. In addition, although never labeled, advertisers often use a “healed-baby”
appeal, which shows a sick environment getting well to further highlight their potential
positive impact on the environment.
Although these different positioning appeals have been commonly used by advertisers
across many product categories, the analysis of these appeals and the mechanism of their
effectiveness have received relatively limited attention from researchers (Chang, 2016).
Although it was tested in a nonprofit social marketing context, Obermiller (1995)
conducted a meaningful study that contributes to the effectiveness of the two of these
positioning appeals; the researcher compared sick- and well-baby appeals and claimed that
the effectiveness is dependent on the saliency of environmental issues. The saliency of
environmental issues refers to individuals’ awareness and its importance related to
environmental seriousness in the industry. Although the study gave an important
insight, healed-baby appeals were not tested in the study. Later studies that examined all
three appeals reported that healed-baby appeals are the most effective appeals (Chang, 2016;
Choi and Lee, 2020), but these studies did not consider the effect of the saliency of
environmental issues. Therefore, this study aims to close this gap by examining all three
appeals accounting for the effect of the saliency of environmental problems.
The objectives of this study are (1) to examine the sick-, well- and healed-baby appeals in their
effectiveness on purchase intentions, (2) to assess the mechanism of their effectiveness on
purchase intentions through positive and negative anticipated emotions and (3) to determine if
the saliency of environmental issues influences the effectiveness of the three appeals on
consumers. This paper introduces the three appeals and their effects on consumers’
anticipated emotions, which in turn influence purchase intentions. The role of the saliency of
environmental issues in the fashion industry is also discussed. Subsequently, the methodological
procedures to examine the effects of the three advertising appeals on consumers are presented.
The findings are discussed followed by the implications and this study’s limitations.

Literature review
The sick-, well- and healed-baby appeals
A sick-baby appeal, or a starving baby appeal, is most often used in social marketing, which
involves changing ideas, beliefs, attitudes and behavior of people for social benefits (Fine,
1990; Rangun and Karim, 1991). It focuses on the importance of social problems and the
need for help (Obermiller, 1995). Particularly, this approach has repeatedly been used in
charity sectors, and researchers have called it a sad appeal (Wang, 2008), a loss-framed
appeal (Xu and Huang, 2020) or a negative appeal (Erlandsson et al., 2018). Meanwhile, the
opposite approach has been called a warm appeal (Haynes et al., 2004), a gain-framed appeal
(Xu and Huang, 2020) or a positive appeal (Erlandsson et al., 2018). When a social issue is Sick-, well- and
presented as a threat to elicit fear, it is considered a fear or a threat appeal (Hartmann et al., healed-baby
2014). Similar to a sick-baby appeal, a fear appeal is another frequently used appeal in social
marketing that uses the persuasion tactic of drawing attention to the problem. Although
appeals
a sick-baby appeal can be considered in line with a fear appeal, the difference lies in the
intensity of the message as well as the target consumer response. To be considered as a fear
appeal, the intensity of the problem should be dreadfully severe with a clear intention to
arouse fear to divert consumer behaviors (Witte and Allen, 2000). Meanwhile, a sick-baby
appeal does not necessarily present the problem as a fearful threat, and it may provoke non-
fear responses, such as sympathy, compassion, urgency, concern or a sense of
responsibility. A sick-baby appeal is also different from a shock appeal, although it may
contain the element of surprise when presenting the problem. While a shock appeal aims to
offend the audience deliberately by violating social norms, moral codes and physical senses
or by using taboos or obnoxious images (Gustafson and Yssel, 1994; Venkat and Abi-
Hanna, 1995), a sick-baby appeal can be presented without a deliberately offensive
intention.
When for-profit companies use the approach of “social marketing” (e.g. a beer company,
Heineken, promotes responsible drinking), the marketed idea for social change is
a secondary purpose (Rangun and Karim, 1991), and they are called socially responsible
marketing. Socially responsible marketing is a type of approach that takes into
consideration the interest of society by acknowledging the company’s obligation in
maximizing its positive impact while minimizing its negative impact on society (DeWitt
and Dahlin, 2009). As a form of socially responsible marketing, green advertising contains
a socially beneficial message, that is saving the earth; however, its primary purpose is the
promotion of its advertised product or brand. For example, one of the first socially
conscious luxury brands, Stella McCartney, featured pollution and used images of
landfills to evoke the need for environmentally sustainable fashion. Because the birth of
a green product is rooted in environmental problems, the tie between green products and
the social good is tight. Thus, emphasizing the environmental problem’s severity is to
promote product alternatives.
The persuasion of sick-baby appeals can be explained by self-affirmation theory, which
entails that people are fundamentally motivated to see themselves as good and virtuous (Steele,
1988), and such a motivation influences their behaviors. The application of self-affirmation was
previously tested in a type of pro-environmental behavior, which is food waste reduction
(Graham-Rowe et al., 2019). The researchers manipulated the degree of self-integrity with
high and low conditions by having participants reflect on either the three most important or
the three least important values for themselves. Participants in the high self-integrity condition
reported reducing food waste more than those in the low self-integrity condition.
The theory also explains that people experience psychological threats when their beliefs
of self-integrity are challenged. When people are exposed to a sick-baby environmental
appeal, not acting positively toward the environmental problem (e.g. not buying a green
product) will threaten individuals’ self-integrity and increase their tendency to feel negative
about themselves (Miceli and Castelfranchi, 1998). Therefore, selecting a green product
alternative can be motivated by the desire to prevent negative self-evaluation and to protect
their positive self-image.
A few researchers (Ellen et al., 1991; Fine, 1990) proposed a well-baby appeal featuring
a good state (e.g. a clean environment) as the better approach. The rationale lies in self-
efficacy, which refers to the individual’s personal confidence in succeeding in a behavior or
situation (Bandura, 1986), such as solving environmental problems. The researchers
claimed that a sick-baby appeal may reduce people’s efficacy when their concern for the
issue is already high, while a well-baby appeal can motivate consumers by stressing the
JFMM importance of individual contribution. Similar to the motivation to protect self-integrity by
responding to a sick-baby appeal message, a well-baby appeal can motivate consumers by
inviting them to do the right actions (i.e. contribute to a healthy environment), thus helping
to maintain self-integrity. Although the effectiveness of appeals may depend on the specific
issue in a particular advertisement (Obermiller, 1995), a variation of well-baby appeals is
widely used in green product advertising. Advertisers frequently use green or blue colors to
evoke the image of nature or use pictures of nature or plants to resonate with a product’s
pro-environmental attributes. For example, H&M’s “Go Green, Wear Blue” marketing
campaign featured denim products made from sustainable materials. Their blunt copy in
blue associates their product with nature and sends the message buying their product is
beneficial to the environment as a way of “go(ing) green.”
In addition to sick- and well-baby appeals, advertisers use a healed-baby appeal.
Advertising plastic waste turning into a stylish knit pleated shoulder bag is an example of
healed-baby appeals (Pleatsmama, a bag company making its products from plastic bottles).
Similar to well-baby appeals, healed-baby appeals also feature the good effect of the advertised
product but with an emphasis on the change from a bad state to a good state. Using the
comparison message, a healed-baby appeal presents a resolution and can communicate the
benefit of the product more effectively. Specifically, in Chang’s study (2016) that examined the
advertisements for artificial lashes, cosmetic contact lenses and bedroom storage systems,
comparison appeals are found to be the most effective strategy in producing positive consumer
responses. Similarly, Choi and Lee (2020) also found that the healed-baby approach generated
a greater benefit perception in the context of green product advertisements. Both studies
reported that positive consumer responses were achieved through the increased perceived
performance due to the comparing states in the advertising appeals. Although no theory is
mentioned in the previous studies, people’s motivation to maintain or even strengthen their self-
integrity possibly plays a role in responding positively to the healed-baby appeal approach.
People can align themselves with the heightened positive state from the comparison with the
negative state. Accordingly, we expect to see a stronger effect of healed-baby appeals on
consumers than the other appeal types in the context of green fashion products.
To assess the effects of the appeals, we examine the purchase intention of the advertised
product as the consumer’s behavioral response to the appeals. A reasonable objective of
advertisements is to increase brand awareness or encourage tentative attitudes toward the
advertised product (Percy and Rossiter, 1992); however, the ultimate goal of advertising is to
persuade consumers to make a purchase. Because consumers’ intention to purchase serves as an
antecedent of actual purchasing behavior (Fishbein and Ajzen, 1977), it is often used as a proxy
measure of purchase behavior (Frommeyer et al., 2022), including green product purchases; 63
per cent of actual purchases were explained by purchase intention in Chan and Lau (2002) and
80 per cent in Wu and Chen (2014). Therefore, we adopt the consumer’s purchase intention to be
a reliable indicator of their behavior. Based on the importance of purchase intention and the
evidence of the effectiveness of the healed-baby approach, the following is hypothesized:
H1. Healed-baby appeals generate higher purchase intentions than sick- and well-baby
appeals.

The effects of advertising appeals through consumer’s anticipated emotions

Consumers’ emotion evoked by advertisements can influence their intention to purchase
(Kamins et al., 1991; Holbrook and Batra, 1987; Holbrook and O’Shaughnessy, 1984). Because
buying a green product is less to do with immediate benefits and more with long-term future
benefits, consumers are likely to experience anticipated emotions − the emotions that they will
feel if they buy, or do not buy, the product. For example, consumers may not be happy when
they have to pay a premium for a green product, but they may expect to feel good after buying Sick-, well- and
the product because they contributed to a cleaner environment and hope for a better future. healed-baby
Anticipated emotions were reported to have their own shares in predicting behavioral
intentions. Richard et al. (1996) examined the role of anticipated emotions on behaviors (e.g.
appeals
eating junk food and studying hard), and they find that anticipated emotions (i.e. expecting to
feel pleasant, nice and good) had their unique contributions in explaining behavioral
responses apart from the classic variables in the theory of planned behaviors. Perugini and
Bagozzi (2001) extended Richard et al.’s study by examining both positive and negative
anticipated emotions in predicting behaviors and found that activation of the emotions is
dependent on the goals of the behavior. Specifically, anticipated positive emotions predicted
desires to exercise and follow a diet (e.g. I will feel proud if I exercise), whereas anticipated
negative emotions predicted desires to study (e.g. I will feel quilt if I don’t study). The
researchers explained that anticipated positive emotions lead to desires to behave if the
goal of behavior is concrete (the behavior itself is a goal), can be achieved in a short period
and does not lead to strong negative consequences, like exercising. However, anticipated
negative emotions work as motivators if the goal of behavior is not easy to conceive and not
a goal of intrinsic worth but a step that ought to be taken, like studying.
Similarly, consumers can experience both positive and negative anticipated emotions from
buying and not buying a green product. Consumers’ expectations of making a positive impact
on the environment by buying a green product can evoke positive anticipated emotions, such
as happiness and pride. Equally, not buying a green product may evoke negative anticipated
emotions, such as feelings of guilt and regret. As anticipated positive emotions are the
imagined emotions that people are expected to feel afterward, consumers would experience
anticipated positive emotions if advertising appeals are successful in convincing consumers
that the desired future is likely to occur. Then, the generated anticipated positive emotions can
influence consumers’ purchase decisions (Phillips, 1996). Then, among the sick-, well- and
healed-baby appeals, well- and healed-baby appeals can generate clearer anticipations of
a desirable future due to their direct communication of the positive side of a green product, in
turn, increasing anticipated positive emotions. In contrast, because sick-baby appeals only
show a problem state without immediate presentation of a desirable future, anticipated
positive emotions would be less than in other appeals. Instead, sick-baby appeals may
convince consumers to buy a green product through anticipated negative emotions,
particularly because buying a green product can be perceived as a step leading to a goal
(i.e. a cleaner environment), not a goal itself. Therefore,we expect that well- and healed-baby
appeals convince consumers through anticipated positive emotions, while sick-baby appeals
convince consumers through anticipated negative emotions.
H2. Well- and healed-baby appeals increase anticipated positive emotions, which lead
to higher purchase intentions.
H3. Sick-baby appeals increase anticipated negative emotions, which lead to higher
purchase intentions.

The saliency of environmental issues in the fashion industry

The acceptance of green products has been continuing to rise (Rosmarin, 2020) as evidenced
by the prominence of new terminologies, such as slow fashion and circular fashion
(Aramendia-Muneta et al., 2022). However, the popularity of the throwaway consumption
of fast fashion products and the amount of consumers’ garment waste tell a different story.
It raises the question of whether consumers are truly aware of the environmental impact
caused by the fashion industry and how their positions on the issue influence purchase
decisions. Obermiller (1995) provided some evidence of how the saliency of environmental
JFMM issues influences the effectiveness of advertising appeals by comparing the sick- and well-
baby appeals in promoting pro-environmental behaviors (i.e. water and energy
conservation, recycling and solid waste reduction). The researcher found that the success
of these appeals depends on the relative salience of the issue (operationalized by perceived
importance and understanding of the issue); specifically, sick-baby appeals worked well
when the particular environmental issue is considered less salient, while well-baby appeals
worked well when the saliency of the issue is already high.
A similar dynamic can occur in the context of fashion. For consumers who think of the
environmental problems in the fashion industry as not a salient issue, addressing the
pollution occurring in the fashion industry with a sick-baby appeal, may convince them of
the need for green products. For consumers who think of the environmental issues in the
fashion industry as a salient issue, well-baby appeals should work well as shown by
Obermiller (1995); furthermore, it is expected that sick- and well-baby appeals will also
work well because newer studies demonstrated favoritism toward green advertising among
consumers who care and are concerned for the environment. For example, in a study of
a strong appeal, a weak appeal and a cause-related marketing appeal, Tucker et al. (2012)
reported that the type of appeals made no difference in consumers who care for the
environment as they tend to show a favorable response to green advertising regardless of
the appeal types. For these consumers, all three types of appeals were effective in generating
positive responses. A similar finding was reported by Matthes and Wonneberger’s (2014)
study. They found that consumers with high environmental concerns showed greater trust in
green advertising than other consumers without the concern. Hence, we hypothesized that
there will be no significant difference in the effectiveness of appeal types for those with high
environment saliency of the environmental problems in the fashion industry. The conceptual
framework of this study is shown in Figure 1.
H4. The saliency of environmental issues moderates the relationship between well- and
healed-baby appeals and anticipated positive emotions, thus leading to purchase
intentions.
H5. The saliency of environmental issues moderates the relationship between sick-
baby appeals and negative emotions, thus leading to purchase intentions.

Figure 1.
Conceptual model of
the study
Research design Sick-, well- and
Between-subjects experimental research designs were used to test the hypotheses in two steps. healed-baby
Study 1 tested the general causal link of the effects of advertising appeals (independent variable)
on purchase intentions (dependent variable) through consumers’ emotions (mediator). After
appeals
gathering initial evidence of the appeal effects, Study 2 extended the previous causal link by
including the dual paths of positive and negative emotions (mediators) as well as the influence of
the saliency of environmental issues (moderator). For each study, a mock fashion brand was
created, and the advertising copy was manipulated to present three different appeals.
A randomized experiment with a non-probability sampling method was used. Non-
probability sampling is generally used when the population parameters are either unknown
or not possible to identify individually. Given that a mock fashion brand was created, target
consumers were not identified in the study, and a non-probability sampling method was
implied. The specifics of each study are presented in the following sections.

Study 1
Methodology
Study 1 employed a one-factor, three-level (sick- vs. well- vs. healed-baby appeals) between-
subjects design to investigate the effect of advertising appeals on purchase intentions (H1),
mediated by anticipated positive emotions (H2).
Stimuli development. Because one of the main environmental harms in the fashion industry
is its use and contamination of water during the textile manufacturing process (Watch, 2019), we
developed the stimuli that address the water pollution problem. On the brand introduction page,
participants were informed that the brand takes an environmentally friendly manufacturing
process in dyeing a denim fabric. To improve the study’s external validity, the design of stimuli
was based on an existing denim brand’s print advertisement that shows the image of wringing
water out of a wet denim item, which resonates with the mock denim brand’s water-conscious
manufacturing practice. Keeping the image constant, the campaign phrase was manipulated:
“Contaminated” for a sick-baby appeal, “Clean” for a well-baby appeal and “Contaminated but
now Clean” for a healed-baby were used.
Instruments. The questionnaire included the research background, voluntary consent,
participation screening questions, the stimuli and manipulation check items and consumer
response questions related to the stimulus. Two attention check items were mixed with
other survey items to prevent random responses. This step can improve the external
validity of the experiment by eliminating unreliable respondents and statistical noise
(Thomas and Clifford, 2017). We provided detailed information about the research to
potential participants before their consent. These systematic processes for selecting
participants can improve the internal validity of the experimental study because the
quality of responses is dependent on the participants’ full comprehension of the task in
which they are engaging (Thomas and Clifford, 2017).
All measurement items were adopted from previous studies. To access anticipated emotions,
participants were asked to indicate the degree of positive emotion that having the advertised
brand will make them feel happy, pleased, joyful, good, glad, delightful and cheerful (Richins,
1997; α = 0.932). They were measured on five-point scales that ranged from “none at all” to “a
great deal.” Purchase intentions were measured using four items from Chang (2016) on seven-
point scales that ranged from “strongly disagree” to “strongly agree” (α = 0.892). Examples of
these items include “I will probably purchase the brand” and “I will likely purchase the brand.”
General demographic information was gathered at the end of the survey.
Data collection and sample characteristics. Participants were recruited from Amazon
Mechanical Turk. After reading a short description of the study, potential participants
voluntarily moved to the survey site through a web-address hyperlink included in the study
JFMM introduction. Once participants moved to the survey site, they were randomly assigned to
one of the three advertising conditions. Participants viewed the brand description and its
advertisement. Then, they rated questions on the manipulation check, purchase intention
items and anticipated positive emotions. Respondents who were younger than 18 years,
were non-US consumers and failed to answer attention check items were excluded. The
respondents were gathered on September 7, 2019.
A total of 201 complete responses were collected (a sick-baby appeal [n = 65], a well-baby
appeal [n = 66] and a healed-baby appeal [n = 70]). The data were analyzed using SPSS 23.0
for the descriptive statistics, reliability analysis and PROCESS macro for the mediation
analysis. The demographic characteristics indicated that the sample consisted of 122 female
consumers (60.7 per cent), 77 male consumers (38.3 per cent) and 2 others (1.0 per cent). The
average age of participants was 32 years: 96 respondents (47.8 per cent) were in their 20s, 71
respondents (35.3 per cent) were in their 30s and 34 respondents (16.9 per cent) were in their
40s or older. The research model of Study 1 is shown in Figure 2.

Results
Manipulation checks. To test the effectiveness of manipulations, participants were asked to
rate their perception of a sick state and a well state in the advertising appeals on seven-point

Figure 2.
Conceptual map for
experimental design of
the study
scales (i.e. “This advertisement shows the problems in denim production” and “This Sick-, well- and
advertisement shows the solution to problems in denim production”). The result of healed-baby
ANOVA showed that participants perceived a higher degree of a sick state from both
sick- and healed-baby appeals (Msick-baby = 5.66, Mhealed-baby = 5.36) than a well-baby appeal
appeals
(Mwell-baby = 5.12), F(2,198) = 4.804, p = 0.06. Also, participants perceived a higher degree of
a well state from both well- and healed-baby appeals (Mwell-baby = 5.14, Mhealed-baby = 5.57)
than a sick-baby appeal (Msick-baby = 4.57), F(2,198) = 6.990, p < 0.01. Thus, the
manipulation was successful.
Hypothesis testing. To test H1, one-way ANOVA was conducted with advertising
appeals as an independent variable and purchase intentions as a dependent variable. The
main effect was marginally significant (F(2,198) = 2.458, p = 0.088). The results of Duncan
test revealed that healed-baby appeals (M = 5.74) generated higher purchase intentions
than sick-baby appeals (M = 5.36). However, healed-baby appeals were not statistically
different from well-baby appeals (M = 5.50). Hence, H1 was partially supported.
The effects of advertising appeals on purchase intentions mediated by anticipated positive
emotions were tested by bootstrapping analysis using PROCESS macro (Model 4, n = 1,000
bootstrap samples). To test H2, the sick-baby appeal was coded as 0, and the well- and healed-
baby appeals as 1. Then, these advertising appeals were entered as an independent variable.
The results indicated that well- and healed-baby appeals did not influence purchase
intentions (direct effect = −0.0720, 95% CI = −0.2862; 0.1421). Instead, the influence was
mediated by anticipated positive emotions (indirect effect = 0.3280, 95% CI = 0.1064;
0.5454). Well- and healed-baby appeals generated higher purchase intentions (vs. a sick-
baby appeal), fully mediated via anticipated emotions; therefore, H2 was supported.

Discussion
These results suggest that problem-free states work better in convincing consumers than
showing problem states. When advertising features well- and healed-baby appeals,
participants showed more anticipated positive emotions than sick-baby appeals.
Particularly, healed-baby appeals generated higher purchase intentions than the other two
appeals. This result is consistent with previous research that consumers experience positive
emotions when they envision desirable future outcomes influenced by advertising appeals
(Chang, 2016; Walters et al., 2012). The findings suggest that consumers’ expectation of
making a positive effect on the environment as seen in the well- and healed-baby appeals
evoked anticipated positive emotions, which influenced purchase intentions.

Study 2
Methodology
Building on the relationships among advertising appeals, anticipated emotions and
purchase intentions in Study 1, Study 2 was conducted by adding the mediator (i.e.
anticipated negative emotions) and the moderator (i.e. the salience for environmental
issues). Study 2 aims to explore the interaction effect between advertising appeals and
salience for environmental issues on purchase intentions, mediated by both positive and
negative anticipated emotions. Study 2 also employed a one-factor, three-level between-
subjects design.
Stimuli development. Study 2 focuses on the environmental issues of garment waste on
the planet and created a zero-waste design brand. On the brand introduction page,
participants were informed that the brand practices zero-waste design of developing
clothes that require little to no waste. Following the brand information, the advertising
image showing a denim jacket set with a background of nature was presented. The image
JFMM was kept constant, and the campaign phrase was manipulated according to the types of
advertising appeals: “A Sick Earth” for a sick-baby appeal, “A Healthy Earth” for a well-
baby appeal and “A Healed Earth” for a healed-baby appeal.
Instruments. The same online survey structure from Study 1 was used. Anticipated
emotions were adopted from Baumgartner et al. (2008) and Richins (1997); anticipated
positive emotions were measured with 10 items: hopeful, optimistic, encouraged, happy,
pleased, joyful, excited, proud, relieved and satisfied (α = 0.934), and anticipated negative
emotions were measured with 10 items: disappointed, annoyed, regretful, stupid, guilty,
angry, ashamed, worried, frustrated and sad (α = 0.967). They were measured on five-point
scales. The same purchase intention scale was used as in Study 1 (Chang, 2016); however,
one item with low factor loading below 0.600 was removed (α = 0.855). The salience of the
environmental issues was adopted from Kim and Choi (2005) with four items: “The fashion
industry is severely abusing the environment,” “Major changes in the fashion industry are
necessary to protect the natural environment,” “Anti-pollution laws should be heavily
emplaced in the fashion industry” and “I am very concerned about the environmental
problems caused by the fashion industry” (α = 0.804). Purchase intentions and the
salience of the environmental issues were measured on seven-point scales that ranged
from “strongly disagree” to “strongly agree.”
Data collection and sample characteristics. The same criteria and procedure from Study 1
were used for participation. Data collection occurred on March 8, 2022. The pre-exposure
time bias caused by using the same research panel as Study 1 can be minimized because the
two studies had a significant time difference. A total of 186 responses were completed (a
sick-baby appeal [n = 56], a well-baby appeal [n = 64] and a healed-baby appeal [n = 66]).
Data were analyzed using SPSS 23.0 and its extension PROCESS macro for the mediation
analysis. The demographic characteristics indicated that the sample consisted of 110 female
consumers (59.1 per cent) and 76 male consumers (40.9 per cent). The average age of
participants was 35 years: 56 respondents (30.1 per cent) were in their 20s, 78
respondents (41.9 per cent) were in their 30s and 52 respondents (28.0 per cent) were in
their 40s or older.

Results
Manipulation checks. For the manipulation check, participants were asked to rate their
perception of a sick state (i.e. “This advertisement shows a bad state”) and a well state (i.e.
“This advertisement shows a good state”) in the advertising appeals on seven-point scales.
The result of ANOVA revealed that participants of the sick-baby (Msick-baby = 5.21) and the
healed-baby (Mhealed-baby = 4.58) appeal conditions perceived that the advertisement
showed worse states than those of the well-baby appeal condition (Mwell-baby = 4.36), F
(2,183) = 3.726, p < 0.05. Participants of the well-baby (Mwell-baby = 5.06) and the healed-
baby (Mhealed-baby = 5.83) appeal conditions perceived that the advertisement contains
better states than those of the sick-baby appeal condition (Msick-baby = 4.50), F(2,183) =
10.362, p < 0.001. Thus, the manipulation was successful.
Hypothesis testing. To reconfirm H1, one-way ANOVA was conducted with advertising
appeals as an independent variable and purchase intentions as a dependent variable. The
main effect was not significant (F(2,183) = 0.978, p = 0.378). Hence, H1 was rejected. For the
H2 testing, bootstrapping analysis using PROCESS macro (Model 4, n = 1,000 bootstrap
samples) was conducted with the appeals as an independent variable, purchase intentions
as a dependent variable and anticipated emotions as mediators. Advertising appeals as an
independent variable were coded as 0 for a sick-baby appeal and 1 for well- and healed-baby
appeals. The results revealed that well- and healed-baby appeals did not directly influence
purchase intentions (direct effect = 0.0404, 95% CI = −0.1402; 0.2210); Instead, the influence
was mediated by anticipated positive emotions (indirect effect = 0.1036, 95% CI = 0.0004; Sick-, well- and
0.2445), supporting H2; however, the mediating effect of anticipated negative emotions was healed-baby
not significant (indirect effect = −0.0097, 95% CI = −0.0532; 0.0059), rejecting H3.
Next, to test the moderating effect of the salience of environmental issues between
appeals
advertising appeals and anticipated (positive and negative) emotions, ANOVA was
conducted as a precondition to test the moderated mediation effects of H4 and H5.
Individuals’ salience of environmental issues was divided into low and high groups
according to the median value (median = 5.50). The results of ANOVA showed a significant
main effect of advertising appeals (F(2,180) = 2.633, p < 0.1) and individuals’ salience of
environmental issues (F(1,180) = 32.847, p < 0.001). Participants who saw the advertising
message with a healed-baby appeal (Mhealed-baby = 3.82) anticipated a greater positive
emotion than those with well-baby (Mwell-baby = 3.58) and sick-baby appeals (Msick-baby =
3.53). Participants with high salience of environmental issues reported a greater anticipated
positive emotion (Mhigh salience = 3.99) than those with low salience of environmental issues
(Mlow salience = 3.31). Furthermore, the interaction effect of advertising appeals and the salience
of environmental issues on anticipated positive emotions was significant (F(2,180) = 3.882, p
< 0.05). As shown in Figure 3, well-baby and healed-baby appeals lead to greater anticipated
positive emotions than a sick-baby appeal does when an individual’s environmental salience
is low. However, the anticipated positive emotions of participants with high salience of
environmental issues did not differ according to the type of advertising appeals.
Additional ANOVA with advertising appeals and the salience of environmental issues as
independent variables and anticipated negative emotions as a dependent variable was
conducted. The results showed a significant main effect of individuals’ salience of
environmental issues (F(1,180) = 32.089, p < 0.001). However, the main effect of
advertising appeals (F(2,180) = 0.733, p = 0.482) and the interaction effects of advertising
appeals and the salience of environmental issues (F(2,180) = 0.286, p = 0.752) on anticipated
negative effects were not significant.
To understand the moderated mediating effect of anticipated positive and negative
emotions, the analysis using PROCESS was used (Model 7, n = 1,000 bootstrap samples).
We coded the condition of sick-baby appeal as 0 and the conditions of well- and healed-baby

Figure 3.
The interaction effects
of advertising appeals
and salience of
environmental issues
on anticipated positive
emotions
JFMM appeals as 1, for the independent variable. Both anticipated positive and negative emotions
were mediators, the salience of environmental issues was a moderator and the purchase
intention was a dependent variable. As shown in Figure 4 and Table I, well- and healed-
baby appeals increased purchase intentions, mediated by anticipated positive emotions. In
particular, the mediation effect was conditionally significant when individuals’ salience of
environmental issues was low (indirect effect−1 SD salience = 0.3707, 95% CI = 0.0929; 0.7032);
however, the mediation effect was not significant under medium (indirect effectmean salience
= 0.1379, 95% CI = −0.0361; 0.3308) or high salience of environmental issues (indirect
effect+1 SD salience = −0.0949, 95% CI = −0.3147; 0.1554).
The mediation effect of anticipated negative emotions was not significant, indicating that
advertising appeals did not induce negative emotions, not leading to purchase intentions
(indirect effect−1 SD salience = 0.0011, 95% CI = −0.0131; 0.0307; indirect effectmean salience =
0.0050, 95% CI = −0.0038; 0.0373; indirect effect+1 SD salience = 0.0089, 95% CI = −0.0057;
0.0557). In addition, the direct effect of advertising appeals on purchase intentions was not
significant (direct effect = −0.0308, 95% CI = −0.2313; 0.1697) showing that anticipated
positive emotions were a full mediation between the advertising appeals and purchase
intentions. Therefore, H4 was supported and H5 was rejected.

Discussion
Even though we expected that healed-baby appeals would generate greater purchase
intentions than sick- and well-baby appeals, the direct causal link from appeals to
purchase intention was not supported. Previous research found that comparison appeals

Figure 4.
The results of
moderated mediation
effect
Notes: *p < 0.05, ***p < 0.001

95% Confidence interval

Saliency of environmental issues Effect BootSE LLCI ULCI

Table I. Mean −1 SD (4.45) 0.3707 0.1878 0.0929 0.7032

Conditional effects of Mean (5.45) 0.1379 0.1126 −0.0361 0.3308
advertising appeals on Mean +1 SD (6.46) −0.0949 0.1437 −0.3147 0.1554
purchase intentionsa Note: aMediated by anticipated positive emotions at the values of the salience of environmental issues
(i.e. healed-baby appeal) increased positive consumer responses through the mediation of Sick-, well- and
perceived performance (Chang, 2016; Choi and Lee, 2020). Similarly, this study showed the healed-baby
significant role of the mediator in the causal relationship.
The three types of advertising appeals did not differ in consumers with high saliency of
appeals
environmental issues, as consistent with previous research (Tucker et al., 2012; Matthes and
Wonneberger, 2014). However, the insignificant path through anticipated negative
emotions was not consistent with our assumption that a sick-baby appeal would induce
purchase intentions through anticipated negative emotions. Previous studies suggested
that individuals could experience negative emotions, such as regret and disappointment
(Abraham and Sheeran, 2004) when they perceive undesirable future outcomes. However, in
our study, sick-baby appeals lowered anticipated positive emotions, rather than inducing
anticipated negative emotions. This outcome may be attributed to the ineffectiveness of
negative reinforcement. Although both positive (reward) and negative (punishment)
reinforcements can shape peoples’ behaviors, negative reinforcements work more slowly
and less effectively than positive reinforcements (Scott et al., 2022). Considering anticipated
positive emotions (feeling good about oneself for buying a green product) aligned with
positive reinforcement and anticipated negative emotions (feeling bad about oneself for not
buying a green product) aligned with negative reinforcement, anticipated negative emotions
might not be effective enough to shape participants’ behavioral intentions through sick-
baby appeals. In addition, the ineffectiveness of the negative reinforcement mechanism
might be worsened due to the diffusion of responsibility for environmental problems. The
polluted environment is beyond a single person’s cause and responsibility, and the sharing
of responsibility can elicit a diffusion of responsibility, thus limiting individuals’ actions
toward the issue (Nollkaemper, 2018). Accordingly, the anticipated negative emotions from
not buying the green product might not be activated because they feel less accountable for
the caused environmental problems.

Conclusions
We have conducted two studies to illustrate the persuasion mechanism of advertising
appeals in relation to consumers’ perceived saliency of environmental issues in the
fashion industry. Study 1 provided initial evidence in terms of the relationship among the
three appeal types, emotions and purchase intentions. Also, although healed-baby appeals
were most effective, the appeals had no direct influence on consumers’ purchase intentions,
and no statistically significant difference was observed between well- and healed-baby
appeals. Study 2 extended Study 1 by examining the dual paths through anticipated
positive and negative anticipated emotions and the interaction effect between the appeal
types and the saliency of environmental problems. The effects of appeal types did not differ
in consumers with high environmental saliency. When consumers’ saliency of
environmental issues was low, well- and healed-baby appeals were effective in increasing
consumers’ purchase intentions through anticipated positive emotions. Meanwhile, sick-
baby appeals were not effective in influencing consumers’ purchase intentions.

Theoretical implications
The findings of this study have made several contributions to the literature on green
advertising research. First, this study provides the expansion of the mechanism inducing
consumers’ behavioral response toward green advertising. While the majority of recent
studies on green advertising focused on positive emotions induced by advertisements as
a psychological mechanism (Chang, 2016; Walters et al., 2012), this study explored both
positive and negative emotions. With the finding that the negative emotions did not mediate
JFMM the effect of advertising appeals on consumers’ behavioral intentions, this study sheds light
on the direction of future research on green advertising effects by proposing two
independent mechanisms in a research model.
Second, this study contributes to the advertising studies on green fashion products. The
importance of sustainable manufacturing and consumption is increasing because of the
fashion industry’s environmental impact. Despite sustainability being an unavoidable and
important issue in the fashion industry along with the growing need for promoting green
fashion product consumption, relatively little research has been done on the effectiveness of
green advertising offered by fashion retailers. Thus, more studies should be done focusing
on the environmental messages that are specific to fashion (e.g. zero-waste fashion and
recycled plastic yarn). The factors that the current study has identified can help increase
fashion consumers’ behavioral intentions toward a green fashion product.

Managerial implications
These findings also provide insights for retailers. Retail managers or marketers can use this
information to manipulate commercial messages to better communicate with green fashion
consumers. From the results of this study, the use of the well- or healed-baby appeals in
green advertising can make consumers expect future results, influencing their anticipated
positive emotions and increasing consumers’ behavioral intentions toward a product. In this
regard, a general non-green focused fashion brand, which does not usually communicate
with its target consumers through green messages, is likely to have consumers whose
salience of the environmental issues in the fashion industry is relatively low. The findings
of this study suggest that increasing the threat level of environmental problems by using
a sick-baby appeal would not work. Consumers’ anticipated negative emotions (e.g. feeling
of regret or guilt from not buying a green product) would not convince them to purchase the
green product. Thus, when this brand newly enters the green market, it should use well- or
healed-baby appeals in its green advertising.
Furthermore, fashion brands should develop a strategy to increase consumers’ anticipated
emotions, such as giving consumers the opportunity to contribute to a healthy environment
(e.g. bringing back unwanted clothes for recycling). This activity, which increases anticipated
positive emotions by eliciting a good self-image, could be effective for consumers with low
saliency. In addition, fashion brands can evoke their target consumers’ interest in
environmental issues by continuously informing the environmental problems caused by
fashion brands. The fashion brand’s initiative that enhances consumers’ saliency can
ultimately lead to the company’s sales and profit growth because all types of advertising
appeals can be effective for individuals with high salience of environmental issues.

Limitations and future research

The current research has limitations that should be addressed in future studies. First, we
manipulated the advertising appeals with texts. The reason the mediation effect of anticipated
negative emotions was not significant in this study can be attributed to the relatively weak
strength of text copy to induce a negative response among participants. Several research
reported that visual-oriented advertisements showed a stronger impact on generating
emotional and attitudinal responses than verbal-oriented advertisements (Holbrook and
O’Shaughnessy, 1984; Mitchell and Olson, 1981). Thus, enhancing the effect power of
stimuli by using vivid images can help to test the appeal effects on consumers.
In addition, this study referred to self-affirmation theory to explain why the appeals can
persuade consumers: sick-baby appeals with the motivation to prevent negative self-
evaluation and well- and healed-baby appeals with the motivation to maintain self-
integrity. However, the role of self-affirmation theory is not directly measured. Future
research can examine the differences in motivations related to self-integrity (e.g. prevent, Sick-, well- and
maintain and strengthen) as precursors that influence consumers’ emotions or purchase healed-baby
intentions of green products.
Finally, future studies can consider other individual characteristics that moderate the
appeals
mediation effects of anticipated emotions, such as environmental knowledge and an
individual’s efficacy or motivation. Such individual characteristics can influence
consumer information processing. These follow-up studies can generalize and support the
findings of the current study and, thus, promote an understanding of fashion consumers’
behavior in the context of green consumption.

ORCID iDs
Dooyoung Choi https://orcid.org/0000-0002-4620-6712
Ha Kyung Lee https://orcid.org/0000-0001-7296-0957

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Corresponding author
Ha Kyung Lee can be contacted at: hakyung@cnu.ac.kr

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