URBAN TOTE

“A minimalist tote with Urban appeal”

11”W x 12”H x 4” D

Skill level: Confident beginner Featuring drop-in

in lining instructions

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 The Urban Tote
Designed by Sue Cheek
Maggy55©

The Urban tote is a soft sided, stylish, yet functional, minimalist tote bag. There are two deep
pockets on the front, with the choice of a magnetic snap or a zipper closure. The shoulder
straps have an 11” drop allowing plenty of room for the extra bulk of sweaters and coats.

The interior has a vinyl or leather trimmed zipper pocket, and a slip pocket that is divided into 3
sections for sunglasses, cell phone, and a pen.

This tote is perfect for everyday use, or for travelling with all those extra items. Whatever way
you use your tote, you will find it to be the perfect size.

The instructions for this pattern are written for both vinyl and leather, but also look fantastic in
decorator fabrics, cork, and other cottons. If you are looking to advance your skills, and
investigate sewing with leather, then this is the perfect pattern for you, as you can replace the
vinyl straps with leather, and begin your journey into leather sewing.

Printing the Pattern:

Set your printer to “actual size” or “100%”. There is a 1” x 1” test square shown on pattern
piece A, print a test piece and check the square for accuracy.
Most of the pattern pieces will require joining to achieve the full pattern piece. These markings
are identified using matching letters and lines. Pattern pieces I and J are on the fold.
Measurements are on both the pattern pieces, and in the cutting information, in case you
would prefer not to print out pattern pieces in order to save paper.

Feel free to make as many bags as you wish to sell in your shop, or at a market venue, however
this pattern may not be used for mass production.

This pattern is a design by Sue Cheek of Maggy55© for personal use, and may not be claimed as
your own.

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There is a lot of information in this pattern....Please read ALL the instructions
thoroughly before you start cutting!

ALTERNATIVE FABRIC INFORMATION

This pattern is written for vinyl and leather as stated previously, but heavier cotton fabrics will
work. If you are using cotton fabrics, then you need to use products that you are familiar with
to give your bag body. Material stabilizer information for a fabric bag is not included in this
pattern , as personal choices will vary, but the process is the same.

Before you begin, make sure that your sewing machine will go through at least 4 layers of
vinyl or SKIVED leather. This is for the bag only. If you are choosing the leather strap option,
there are only 2 layers of leather.

MATERIALS:

 ¾ yard Exterior Vinyl or 7½ square feet of leather

 ¾ yard lining fabric – 44” wide fabric
 2 yards fusible medium weight Woven Interfacing for lining pieces (based on 20” wide)
 Kraftex – 2 pieces 7” x 4”
 Texon/Bontex (bag stiffener) – 1 piece 11” x 4½” (to be trimmed down)
 Foam/Fleece – 1 piece 11”w x 4” (to be trimmed down)
 18mm magnetic snap (optional magnetic snap closure)
 14”- #5 metal or nylon zipper (optional zipper closure)
 9 rivets or Chicago screws
 1 yard heavyweight sew-in interfacing (for leather strap option)
 Front label – optional
 7”- #3 nylon zipper (interior zipper pocket)
 Metal zipper end (optional if you are not using vinyl or leather tab for your zipper
closure)

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NOTIONS /TOOLS :

 Bonded nylon thread Tex 70 #69 OR bonded polyester (if you are using a domestic
machine then you need to use the heaviest thread that your machine will handle)
 Wonder clips
 Chalk Marker or disappearing pen (test this first)
 Regular pen or pencil
 Rotary cutter & ruler
 Fabric glue
 ¼” DST – double sided tape
 ⅛” rivet hole punch and rivet setter
 Poly roller tool (optional)
 Poly/rubber mallet (optional)
 Teflon foot (domestic machine that does not have a walking foot)
 # 18 -20 Leather needle
 1” Curved strap punch (optional)
 Leather edge paint (optional)
 Light weight sandpaper (edge painted strap only)
 Sewing machine
 Scissor

ABBREVIATIONS:

SA – seam allowance WSU – wrong side up

RS – right side RSD – right side down
WS – wrong side WSD – wrong side down
RST – right side together CLIP – use wonder clip
WST – wrong side together SNIP – small snip with scissors
RSU – right side up DST – double sided tape

SEAM ALLOWANCES WILL VARY IN THIS PATTERN FROM ⅜” to ½”, PLEASE PAY ATTENTION
TO THIS INFORMATION AS YOU SEW!

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For specific information refer to glossary below.

Materials, notions, and tools....................................................................pages 3-4

Prep work..................................................................................................pages 6-7
Outer bag construction.............................................................................pages 8-21
Lining construction (zipper side)...............................................................pages 22-27
Lining construction (slip pocket side)........................................................pages 28-29
Assembly of lining.....................................................................................page 30
Optional zipper closure.............................................................................pages 31-37
Optional magnetic snap closure................................................................page 38-40
Adding facing to lining...............................................................................page 41
Drop in lining.............................................................................................pages 42-44
Vinyl strap construction............................................................................pages 45-46
Leather strap construction........................................................................pages 47-51
Attaching straps to bag.............................................................................page 52
Resources and tester pictures...................................................................pages 53-56
Pattern......................................................................................................57-80

Cutting Chart
Pattern Piece Exterior Lining Fabric Woven
Vinyl or leather Interfacing
A – Back 15½”W x 13½”H Cut 1 in vinyl or leather
B – Upper front 15½”W x 7”H Cut 1 in vinyl or leather
C – Front Pocket 15½” W x 11 “H Cut 1 in vinyl or leather
D – Base 11½”W x 5”H Cut 1 in vinyl or leather
E – Inside facing 15½”W x 2½”H Cut 2 in vinyl or leather
F – Zipper placket (optional closure) Cut 2 in vinyl or leather Cut 2 Cut 2
11”W X 2”H
G – Lining Main Panel Cut 2 Cut 2
15½”W x 13½”H with 2” cut out
H – Front pocket lining 15½”W x 8”H Cut 2 Cut 2
I – interior zipper pocket lining Cut 1 Cut 1
Cut on fold - 9”W X 14”H
J – Slip pocket Cut 1 Cut 1
Cut on fold - 12”W X 11”H
Zipper overlay Cut 1 in vinyl or leather
Vinyl strap option 2 pieces 32½” x 2”
2 pieces 28½” x 2”
Leather strap option 4 pieces 30” x 1½”
Slip pocket trim Cut 1 piece in vinyl or
leather 1” x 12”
Magnetic Snap (optional closure) Cut 2 pieces in vinyl or
leather 4” x 3”

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 Prep work!
Just like a good recipe, you need to do some prep work so that making the bag is an easier task.
Once you have cut the pattern pieces listed in the cutting information, you need to transfer
some markings to these pieces.

NOTE: When working with leather you are best do the skiving prep work on page 7, before
you do the prep work below.

Exterior Pieces

A – Back
On the WS, draw a 1” line across the top edge of the 15½” side (if you don’t have a directional
fabric you can choose either side). This will now be identified as the top of the back piece. Mark
the Center on both top and bottom according to pattern. Mark base placement lines at the
bottom according to pattern. Punch out the strap placement holes on the paper pattern using
⅛”hole punch, then transfer these marks to the RS of this piece at the top. Note: if you are
using a pen, make sure that the ink will not run or smear.
B – Upper front
On the WS, draw a 1” line across the top edge of the 15½” side (if you don’t have a directional
fabric you can choose either side). This will now be identified as the top of the front piece. Mark
the Center on both top and bottom according to pattern. Punch out the strap placement holes
on the paper pattern using ⅛” hole punch, then transfer these marks to the RS of this piece at
the top.
C – Front pocket
Mark the Center on WS of both top and bottom according to pattern.
D – Base
On the WS, draw a ½” line around all 4 edges, crossing over each line. Mark center of all 4
edges according to pattern.
E- Inside facing
On the WS, draw a 1” line across the top edge of the 15½” side (if you don’t have a directional
fabric you can choose either side). This will now be identified as the top of the inside facing.
Mark center on top and bottom according to pattern. If you are choosing the zipper closure,
mark zipper placement line within the SA, on the RS at the bottom edge of the 15½” side.

Lining Pieces
Fuse interfacing to all of the lining pieces.
On WS, mark center on H (main body) and G (pocket lining) according to pattern.
On paper pattern G, cut out zipper area as stated on pattern.

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 Leather Skiving Guide and General Information

This page is for the leather exterior only, not the vinyl
General leather information
It is suggested that you use 2½ – 3½ oz. leather, as this will give you a nice structure on your
Urban Tote. When you are bonding leather to leather, you can use leather glue, instead of DST.
I find the Tandy Eco-Weld water based adhesive is great. As mentioned before in the general
sewing information, make sure your sewing machine can go through 4 thicknesses of whatever
leather you choose to use.
Keep a damp cloth at your side when you are working with glue, as it makes for easy clean up
on your hands, as well as on the leather.

Skiving guide
A – Back
Skive all 4 sides at ½”
B – Upper front
Skive top and sides only at ½”
C – Front pocket
Skive all 4 sides at ½”
D – Base
Skive all 4 sides at ½”
E- Inside facing
Skive top and sides only at ½”
F –zipper placket
Skive all 4 sides at ½”
Slip pocket trim (1” x 12”)
Skive the full piece
Optional magnetic snap tabs
These pieces are cut at 4” x 3”, and need to be skived on both the 4” sides of both pieces at ½”

Recheck pattern measurements as skiving may stretch your leather.

Once the skiving is done, you can now proceed back to the prep area on page 6.

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 LET’S START SEWING!
OUTER BAG CONSTRUCTION

Front Section

1. Take Upper front vinyl/leather piece B, and place on top of one of the pocket lining pieces H, with RST
Clip in place along the 15½” edge (a). Stitch the two pieces together using ½” SA.
Flip open, with SA pointing down (b). Finger press in place.

(a) (b)

2. Stitch just below join at ¼”, on lining piece. This

piece will be known as the “front main”
from here on.

3. With “front main” RSU, lay the exterior vinyl/leather back piece on top, RST, aligning the top edges.
Trim off excess of lining at bottom, making the
front and back pieces even. Set both pieces
aside.

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4. Repeat step 1 and 2, using exterior vinyl/leather front pocket piece C, and the other pocket lining H.
This will be referred to as the “front pocket” piece from here on.

5. With “front pocket” piece RSD, draw 2 lines on the WS of the exterior vinyl/leather piece.
One at 7” and one at 9” from the bottom (a). Place DST on the inside of both lines (b)

(a) (b)

6. Peel paper off DST , and fold the front pocket piece in half WST, lining up the bottom edges .
Finger press along the areas where there is tape, securing the tape down. Use a roller or hard finger
press on the folded edge to give a crisp line for sewing.

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7. With RSU stitch two lines at the top of the folded pocket piece. One at ¼”, and the other ½”

8. Clip the sides and bottom, and baste stitch ⅛”around the open 3 edges.

9. Using chalk or a disappearing pen, draw a line down the center of the pocket from the fold to the
bottom. This will be a guide for your sewing line to attach your “front pocket” to your “front main”, so
make sure it is straight. NOTE: MAKE SURE THE LINE CAN BE REMOVED, SO TESTING YOUR PEN OR
CHALK SHOULD BE DONE ON A SCRAP FIRST.

10. With “front main” piece RSU, measure 4½” down from the top, making marks on the side for front
pocket placement (a). Place the finished pocket on top RSU, lining up with the marks on the side (b)

(a) (b)

(a) (b)

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11. Clip one side (a), and then lift the pocket section back exposing the RS of the “pocket back” (b)

(a) (b)

12. Mark center at the bottom and the top of the “front main” within SA (a). Draw a line from just below
the pocket placement, and add DST to this line (b). Peel paper off DST, and fold “pocket front” back to
original position. Finger press along the area where there is tape, securing it down.

(a) (b)

13. Place clips around sides and bottom to keep

from shifting while you sew the “front pocket”
to “front main”. NOTE: Do not sew clipped sides or
bottom yet.

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14. Start at the bottom, sewing ⅛” from the line, until you get to the top stitched line on the folded
edge (a). Keep needle down, pivot, and sew a few stitches on top of that line, and then pivot to go back
down the other side (b), the same distance from the line that you had coming up.

(a) (b)

15. Punch hole for rivet (a), making sure you don’t catch any stitches. Set rivet (b). NOTE: If you don’t
have a short shaft for the male end of your rivet, you may need to place a scrap piece of vinyl/leather
behind the rivet to build it up so you don’t bend the rivet when setting (c). TIP: If you don’t have rivets,
you could use Chicago screws, you may need to make the holes a bit bigger.

(a) (b)

(c)

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16. With clips still in place, slide the “front pocket” inward ⅛” at the placement mark only (not all the
way down) (a), re-clip. Sew the sides and bottom together, making sure the “front pocket remains
inward while stitching (b). This is done so that the “front pocket” will not pull on the “front back” once
the bag is complete. This section now becomes the finished front.

(a) (b)
17. With WSU of both the finished front and back exterior sections, draw a second placement line (for
Kraftex) ⅝”down from the top just wide enough to attach the Kraftex.

18. Cut 2 pieces of Kraftex 7” x 4” placing a mark at the center (3½” in from the side) on the 7” edge of
both pieces of Kraftex (a). On the reverse side of the Kraftex (behind the mark) place DST along the 7”
edge (b). Round the corners on the bottom of both pieces of Kraftex (a).

(a) (b)

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19. Peel paper off DST (a), and place tape side down on drawn ⅝” line of back (b), and finished front
(c). Since you have covered up your original 1” line with the Kraftex, you need to remark that line.

(a) (b)

(c)

20. With RSU of both the finished front and the back exteriors, punch out the marked holes (this was
done in the prep section) for strap rivets, using a ⅛” hole punch. You will be going through vinyl/leather
as well as the Kraftex.

For those who wish to place a label on the front, continue with instructions 21 and 22. If you are not
using a label, then skip ahead to instruction 23.

21. Place label back on RS of finished front 3” down from top edge. Make sure the label is centered
between the holes, before marking. Make slits where marks are, going right through the Kraftex.

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22. Once label is on (a), glue a scrap piece of vinyl/leather on top (b). Front should now look like picture
(c), depending on the label you are using.

(a) (b)

(c)

23. Place finished front and back RST, making sure the top and bottom are matching. Clip sides
together, sewing sides from top to bottom using ⅜” SA.

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24. Reinforce the area on both sides with extra stitching right where the top of the pocket is set in (a).
This will help secure the pocket at the stress points. Snip through all layers just above the secured stitch
line. Make sure you DO NOT snip the side stitch line.

(a) (b)

25. Place DST on both sides of the seams (if using leather, you can use a leather glue here instead of the
DST) (a), trim off the top edge at an angle (b). This will help reduce the bulk when topstitching. Finger
press seams open (c)

(a) (b)

(c)

(c)

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26. Place DST on WS all around top edge (a), then peel paper off DST and fold over to drawn line (b).

(a) (b)

27. Use a roller, or hard finger press the edge for a crisp line.

28. Line up base piece D to the center marks of the front and back of the stitched bag. Make sure center
marks are still showing on the front and back pieces at the bottom. If not, remark them according to the
pattern pieces.

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29. With RST, line up center marks on the front piece with the base piece first, clip along to the end of
the base on both sides of center. Repeat on the back side, clipping the base to both back and front
pieces (b) on long sides only

(a) (b)

30. Begin stitching at the corner point shown (a). Make a few stitches forward, then backstitch, making
sure you do not go back past the starting stitch. Continue to stitch along the drawn line (b) until you
reach the end, backstitching at the end just like you did at the start (c).

(a) (b)

(c)

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31. Snip approx. ¼” within the SA at the end of the
stitch line, then a few more snips on either side at both
ends, on both the front and the back sections of the bag.
Do not snip the base piece.

32. Line up the center mark on the base side with the open seam of the front and back (a). Clip together
(b) and sew along the line starting and stopping as in step 30. Finished base should look like (c). Make a
second stitch ⅛” around the whole base again for added security (d).

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

33. Trim at corners only.

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Before we beginning step 34, let’s discuss the texon/bontex or bag stiffener that will be used. I use a
product from Tandy leather that is called “bag stiffener”, and is available in a large sheet. If you don’t
have this, then you can certainly improvise with something that you are familiar with, as long as you
get a somewhat solid base. You can even use a piece of Kraftex if you would like. Whatever you use,
the instructions will refer to this as “bag stiffener”. As for the foam that is used, you can use a fleece
or a piece of batting, whatever you have available to provide a softness at the bottom of the inside of
the bag.

34. Cut bag stiffener at 10¼”x 3¾”, round the corners (a). Glue a piece of foam that has been cut the
same size to one side of the bag stiffener (b). Place a weight on this, and let sit for about 5 minutes, so
the glue can bond. TIP: Keep a damp cloth beside you to wipe excess glue off your hands.

(a)

(b)

35. Once bonded, cover the other side of the bag stiffener, with fabric glue (a), and place on the WS of
the base as shown (b) foam side up.

(a) (b)

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36. Turn bag right side up (see photo), and place a
weight in the bottom of the RS (inside) of the bag,
and let the glued piece bond together.
Leave for approx. 10 minutes or more.

37. Once the bottom is dry, then push the bottom up, starting at one corner, gently turning the bag to
the right side.

38. Set the finished outer bag aside, and continue with the lining.

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 LINING CONSTRUCTION

Interior zipper instructions (side A of interior lining)

1. Lay paper pattern G on the RS of one of

the prepared linings (you have cut 2). Set the other one
aside for slip pocket instructions.
Align top edge of paper with top of the lining fabric,
trace the area for zipper placement within the cut
out area.

2. Place zipper overlay RSD, add a bead of fabric glue all around the outside edge of the WS (a). Gently
place WS of the overlay on top of fabric lining, making sure the cut out area lines up with the drawn
lines (b). Place a weighted object on top (I use a piece of steel plate that I have), and let the two pieces
bond for a few minutes (c). This will minimize any movement when sewing.

(a) (b) (c)

3. Once the overlay has bonded with the fabric, begin stitching ⅛” around the outside edge (a). Do not
back stitch, finishing the last stitch where you began. Pull front threads to the back side of the lining and
tie off (b).

(a) (b)

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4. Make a slit through the lining at the zipper opening (a). Turn lining RSD, and continue to remove
excess lining approx. ¼” inside the stitch line (b). **BE VERY CAREFUL NOT TO SNIP THE VINYL/
LEATHER OVERLAY BEHIND**

(a) (b)

5. Place a small bead of fabric glue (a) or DST (b) on RS of zipper close to the outer edge of both sides (a)
(b). Place the WS of lining piece G on top of the zipper opening (c), smooth with finger tip (d) making
sure zipper is centered.

(a) (b)

(c)
(d)

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6. Place sewn overlay lining piece RSD,
add a bead of glue or DST just below the bottom
of the WS of the zipper edge.

7. Take pocket lining piece I, lay RS of the short edge on to the glued area (or the DST) (a), making sure
you cover the whole zipper keeping the pocket lining square (b). Flip piece RSU (c)

(a) (b)

(c)
8. With RSU, sew along the lower zipper side starting ⅛” from OUTSIDE the edge (a), and finishing
⅛”OUTSIDE the other edge. NOTE: Do not back stitch at the start or at the end (b).

(a) (b)
(a) (b)

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9. Pull the front threads to the WS of the lining,
tie off.

10. Add a small amount of fabric glue or DST just below the sewn line (a), then fold the pocket lining
back so you expose the WS of the zipper (b). Finger press down allowing the glue or adhesive to bond.
This will stop the pocket lining from getting caught in the zipper.

(a) (b)

11. Run a small amount of fabric glue or DST just above the top edge of the WS of the zipper (a), then
fold up the lower edge of the pocket lining RS together (b) just above the top edge of the WS of the
zipper, making sure you cover the glue or the DST (c).

(a) (b)

(c)

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12. With RSU, begin your stitch line where the bottom line you just sewed ended (a), start stitching up
the side making sure you stop at approx. ⅛” from the inside edge of the overlay (b)

(a) (b)

13. Sew ⅛” around the rest of the zipper, stopping at the end of the bottom stitch line.

14. Pull front threads to the WS and tie off.

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15. With RSU, move the lining pieces out of the way exposing the raw side of the zippered pocket (a).
Stitch as close to the zipper as possible (a) all the way down to the bottom of the folded pocket (b).

(a) (b)

16. Repeat on the other side. Starting from the

folded bottom, sewing as close to the zipper as
possible . If it helps to draw a line for guidance,
then do so before you sew.

17. Voila!! Your zipper pocket is done.

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Slip pocket instructions (side B of interior lining)

18. With RSD, press the 11”sides over ½”on pattern piece J (slip pocket lining) (a). Fold WS together
lining up raw edges at the top. Your pocket should now measure 11”W x 5 ½ ”H. Take the slip pocket
trim (cut in prep section 1” x 12”), and draw a line down the center of the WS. With RSD place DST on
one side of the long edge (b). Peel paper back, line up raw edges of folded slip pocket piece onto DST,
centering on the drawn line (c).

(a) (b)

(c)

19. Place DST on the opposite long edge (a). Peel paper back, fold WST forming a binding at the top of
the pocket (b). Trim off the excess vinyl/leather so binding is even with sides of folded pocket. Be careful
not to cut the folded portion.

(a) (b)

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20. Top stitch trim approx ¼”- ⅜” down from folded vinyl/leather edge, encasing the raw edge of the
pocket.

21. Using a disappearing pen/marker,

draw lines on RS of slip pocket according
to the pattern.

22. Place marked slip pocket on RS of the set aside lining piece G (a). Place 4” down from top edge and
pin in place, making sure it is centered. Stitch around pocket and divider lines as shown (b)

(a) (b)

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Assembly of lining

23. With RST, pin or clip LINING pieces together.

Sew down both sides and across
bottom, using½” SA.
Trim seams down to ¼” to reduce
the bulk. Press seams open

24. Match open SA of the side to meet with the

open SA of the bottom, forming a boxed bottom.
Pin or clip in place and sew ½” SA.
Repeat on the other side.
Set this lining aside until inside facing instructions are
complete.

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 Optional Zipper Closure Instructions

If you are choosing the magnetic snap closure proceed to page 38

1. Prepare zipper, by folding under the ends, pin to secure. Set aside

2. You should have 2 exterior

vinyl/leather pieces, and 2 lining
pieces of pattern H (zipper placket).

NOTE: Both zipper plackets will be done at once, to keep the zipper even and aligned.

3. With RSD of the exterior vinyl/leather pieces, draw a 1” line across the ends of both sides on the WS
of each piece. Mark on WS identifying “tail end” and “closed end”.

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4. On WS, at tail ends only, place DST (a). Peel paper off, and fold to drawn line. Use a roller or
finger press down on folded edge (b)

(a) (b)

5. With RSU of both exterior pieces, lay the zipper in the center RSU for placement (a). Make a small
mark WITHIN SA at ½”, on the end that is not folded (closed end) of your exterior piece (b).

(a) (b)

6. Place DST on RS from the ½” mark to about ⅛” from the folded tail end (a). Place RS of prepared
zipper down on the peeled back DST, lining up the edges (b).

(a) (b)

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7. Place lining pieces RSD, folding the tail end in ½” (a), finger press the fold. With RST, clip lining to
exterior and sew at ⅜” SA along the zipper edge (b). Keep the folded edges even while sewing (c). Open
up zipper placket with RSD (d), finger press open.

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

8. With WSU, continue drawing the 1” line from the vinyl/leather piece onto the lining piece (a). Place
DST on edge (a), and fold over to the drawn line (b)

(a) (b)

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9. With RSD, place DST along WS of exterior pieces on the SA (a) (b). Fold the WS of the exterior to the
WS of the lining, starting in the center finger pressing as you continue to the ends (c).

(a) (b)

(c)
10. With RSD, lift lining and place a bead of glue between lining and exterior pieces on the WS along the
sides and bottom (a). Bottom edges should meet (b). Mark center on the lower edge (at approx. 5”)
within the SA of the RS (c).

(a) (b)

(c)

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11. Use clips to secure sides and bottom (a). Starting at the bottom, sew up the side, across the top,
then down other side approx. ⅛” from folded/finished vinyl/leather edge (b). Baste stitch across
bottom at ⅛” to secure the two pieces together. NOTE: You may find the corners thick so gently use a
mallet to flatten them. If you are using a metal zipper, be careful at the closed end, as you may be
stitching over the teeth.

(a) (b)

12. Finished zipper section should be approx. 10” x 4”

13. Lay facing pieces E and finished zipper

section RSU as pictured to the right.
Make sure centers are marked on bottom
of facings, to match up with center mark on
zipper section (as done in step 10).

14. Place RST, lining up centers first, then clipping to the right and left along the bottom edge of each of
the facing piece (a). Remember the 1” line you drew on the WS of the facing in the prep section is the
top. Using a ⅜” SA, sew along the zipper section securing it to the facing (b)

(a) (b)

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15. With RST, clip ends (a) on both sides, making sure to clip up the tails of your zipper so they don’t get
caught (b). Sew at ½” SA.

(a) (b)

16. Once sewn, place DST on both sides of SA (if using leather, you can use a leather glue here instead of
the DST) (a), trim off on an angle at the top only to reduce the bulk (b), finger press seams open (c)

(a) (b)

(c)

URBAN TOTE Page 36

17. Place DST on the top edge (a), peel back paper folding down to the drawn line. You can use a roller
or finger press to smooth down the edge (b). TIP: Place a spare piece of vinyl on top of the thick seams
and tap lightly with a mallet to help flatten them. Finished section should look like picture (c)

(a)

(b)

(c)

NOTE: I choose to use a zipper end, as I find this is a nicer finished look. You can, however, make a
vinyl/leather end for the zipper, but I do not include instructions for that in this pattern.

URBAN TOTE Page 37

 Optional Magnetic Snap Closure Instructions

18. Cut 2 pieces of vinyl/leather 4” x 3”, and draw a line down the center of the 3” side on the WS (a).
Place DST on 4” edges (if using leather, you can use a leather glue here instead of the DST) (b), peel back
paper, lining up edges to the drawn line (c). Use a roller or hard finger press for a crisp edge.

(a) (b) (c)

19. Fold tabs in half edge to edge, clip, and mark for magnetic snaps (center of snap should be approx.
¾” from folded edge as indicated by arrows) (a). Unfold and make slits on marked lines, going through
one layer only. Set in magnetic snaps (b). Fold snap legs inward over top each other.

(a) (b)

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20. With RSD, place DST on half of the pieces
covering the back of the magnetic snaps.

21. Peel off paper, folding back in half (a), stitch all around folded edges (b). Pieces should connect
together as in picture (c)

(a) (b)

(c)

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22. With exterior facing pieces E RSU, place finished magnetic tabs in the center at the bottom of the
facing piece and mark for placement to sew (a). Put tabs in place using DST (b), making sure the male
section is pointing up, and the female section is pointing down (c). Baste stitch tabs in place ⅛” from
edge.

(a) (b)

(c)

23. Follow steps for facing construction on pages 36 and 37 (16-17)

24. Your finished magnetic snap facing should look like picture below.

URBAN TOTE Page 40

 Adding upper facing to lining

Whichever method you have chosen for your closure, the following instructions apply to
either one.

NOTE: Before you sew the facing and lining together, take a quick second to make sure that the facing is
a perfect fit with the bag. To do this, just clip the facing in place along the inside of the bag. Some vinyls
and leathers can be thicker than others, so if there are any adjustments to be made, you need to do
them at this time to make the facing piece fit. This is important to achieve the perfect drop in lining.

The inside zipper generally faces the back side of the bag, so make sure you keep this in mind as you
stitch the facing to the lining.

1. Set the finished facing piece (zipper or tabs facing down) into the prepared lining RST (a). Line up side
seams, clip at both sides, clip at the marked centers. Continue to clip in place all around (b).

(a) (b)

2. Sew all around facing using ½” SA

3. Finger press along the inside sewn edge pushing the

SA down toward the bottom of the bag.

URBAN TOTE Page 41

 Dropping in the lining
Here we go!

For all of you who have never done a drop in lining, you are going to be treated to the “NO
BIRTHING” experience.

1. Slide finished lining piece into prepared outside (a). Smooth out the lining on the inside, pushing the
corners in place (b)

(a) (b)

2. Start clipping at side seams, then center, and continue around the whole bag as pictured.

(a) (b)

TIP 1 : By running your finger along the top edge, you can make sure that both
folded edges are even and aligned.

TIP 2: If you are concerned about your clips moving during the sewing process, then
you can add a piece of DST on the WS approx. ¼” down from folded edge to help
stop any shifting of the two pieces. Make sure your tape is below the stitch line area.

URBAN TOTE Page 42

3. Always top stitch from the outside of the bag. If you have a cylinder or free arm machine, the job will
be easier than if you don’t , no question.

The following pictures show how you would sew in the lining using a flat bed machine.

PATIENCE is the name of the game!

Slow and steady will give you the best stitches, no matter which machine you have.

Use a longer stitch 4-5, as this will show less wobbling. Sew ¼” from edge of top.

Do not backstitch when you start and stop stitching.

Make sure the underside of the bag is free and clear from getting caught by the needle (a).

CHECK THIS CONSTANTLY!

(a)

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4. When you are approx. 4”-5” from the starting stitch, stop with the needle in the down position, and
pull the top starting thread to the back of that stitch. Continue sewing until your last stitch is in the hole
of the first stitch. NOTE: It may not line up perfectly, but get as close as possible.

5. Pull all threads to the back (inside of bag).Thread a needle with those threads, feeding the threads
through the vinyl/leather, coming up between the two layers. Knot it off, and then feed the threads back
down.

The body of your bag is now complete!!!

Set aside, and let’s do the straps

URBAN TOTE Page 44

 STRAP CONSTRUCTION

In this section I will be giving you 2 sets of instructions on strap making. One is using vinyl and the
other leather. These are two different methods, and you can choose either one for finishing your bag.

Vinyl Strap Construction

1. With WSU of strap pieces (a) (2 @28 ½”, and 2 @ 32½”), draw a line down the center of all 4 pieces
(b)

(a) (b)
2. Stitch together one 28 ½” piece and one 32 ½” piece at each of the short ends, forming a continuous
circle. Sew at ¼” SA. Place DST on sides of sewn seams (a), peel back paper and finger press seams
open. Place DST along both edges of the full circular piece. Peel back paper, folding edges to center
drawn line (b). Use a mallet to minimize the bulk in the SA area, by gently hammering on the seam (c).
TIP: Make sure you have a hard surface below

(b)

(c)

URBAN TOTE Page 45

3. Use a roller or hard finger press to get a crisp edge to sew (a).Place a strip of DST on the inside
middle, running the length of the longer piece. Peel paper off, connecting the WS of the short piece to
the WS of the long piece. This will form a flat strap 1” w x 30” long. The seam of the short piece should
be folding inward approx. 1” (indicated by arrow) on both ends (b). The shorter side is the back of the
strap. NOTE: If you prefer to clip all the way down instead of using DST, then go ahead and do that, as
this tape is only to hold it in place for sewing.

(a) (b)

4. Top stitch ¼” around all 4 folded edges using a 4-5 stitch length (a). Using strap template provided,
mark and punch out the rivet holes (b) on the RS of both ends of each strap. Make sure you are clear of
any stitch lines.

(a) (b)

Vinyl Straps are now complete!

Continue in section “connecting straps to bag”.

URBAN TOTE Page 46

Leather strap construction

Let’s discuss the stabilizer that we will be using in the strap construction. There are only two layers of
leather, and SOME leathers can stretch. The stabilizer helps prevent the leather strap from stretching
out when weight is placed on it. There are lots of products that can be used, but if you are only doing
one pair of straps, then you can use a sew-in heavy weight interfacing. If you are using leather that
does NOT stretch, then skip the stabilizer completely.

1. With WSU of the 4 strap pieces (previously cut), glue a strip of stabilizer ¾” wide x 28” long to the
WS of two pieces down the center (a). Add strips of DST down both long edges, just catching the edge of
the stabilizer (b). Peel back paper, and place the piece without the stabilizer on top (c). Start from one
end, and continuing to the other end smoothing as you go, keeping edges aligned. Use a roller or hard
finger press (d). Repeat on other strap.

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

URBAN TOTE Page 47

2. Using a sharp rotary cutter or an exacto knife, cut ¼” off one edge (a), keeping the ruler straight as
you cut. TIP: Use lots of pressure on the ruler, as not to slip. Lay the ruler on the cut edge at the 1” line,
trim off the excess on the opposite side (b). This will give you a strip of 1” x 30”. Repeat on the other
strap.
NOTE: Make sure your cut is smooth and even, as inconsistencies may show.

(a) (b)

3. Lay both pieces down on table side by side, marking both at the same time for consistency (a). Using a
pen, draw a line ½” in from the end, this line will be cut off so a pen is fine to use. Measure 29” from
the line you just drew to the opposite end, and draw another line (b).

(a) (b)

URBAN TOTE Page 48

4. Place the leather “strap end template” just inside the lines drawn (a). Trace the end shape on both
ends of each strap (b). Using sharp scissors or an exacto knife, making as smooth a trim as possible
around these curves. If you do leather work already, you may have a round edge punch. This is easier
than cutting, so use this instead. (c) (d) This punch is available at Tandy leather, and is called “Round
end punches”. If you plan on doing more straps, it is worth purchasing.

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

5. Begin top stitching at approx. 1” from the end ⅛” from edge (a). Do not backstitch at the beginning
or the end of the stitching. When your stitching ends where you began (b), pull the threads to the back
side, tie off and trim close to the knot. This side will be riveted to the bag, so the trimmed threads will
not show. NOTE: If you are using bonded nylon thread, you can use a lighter, and burn off the tails,
making sure to touch the thread quickly with the lighter flame.

(a) (b)

URBAN TOTE Page 49

6. Using the same template, mark the placement for the rivet holes (a), then punch out holes on all 4
ends using ⅛” hole punch (b).

(a) (b)

Finishing off the edges of the straps can be done in a few different ways. The look you want the
strap to have, will dictate how you finish the edges.

If you are looking for that rustic look, then all you need to do is leave them as is.
You can do what is called burnish them, by using gum tragacanth, bees wax and a burnishing
tool, or you can use edge paint.

The following instructions are for finishing with edge paint, which is how my straps are finished.

This is a step that takes practice, and is all about patience. When you first start edge painting, I
suggest that you use a colour that is the same as the leather, like black on black. Trying a
contrast colour is not only frustrating, but also difficult to find a match. There are many
products out there for you to try, but unless you are using it all the time, I suggest you just use
Tandy Eco-Flo edge paint.

There are also many tools out there to help you apply the paint that work very well, but for now
I am suggesting you use a wooden skewer, as it has a point, works well, and is probably in your
kitchen drawer.

URBAN TOTE Page 50

7. Apply a thin layer of paint all over the raw edges (a). TIP: KEEP A DAMP CLOTH BESIDE YOU TO WIPE
OFF ANY AREAS THAT YOU HAVE GOTTEN PAINT ON, WIPING IT OFF BEFORE IT DRIES.
Let this coat dry 5-10 min. Use a light sand paper, and just go over the edges to smooth (b), then apply
another coat. I generally put 3 coats on to achieve a smooth, soft look (c), letting each coat dry about
15-30 min.

(a)

(b)

Your leather straps are now complete!

Continue in section “connecting straps to bag”.

URBAN TOTE Page 51

 Connecting Straps to bag

Whichever straps you have chosen to do, the installation is the same.

1. Finish punching the rivet holes through all layers of the front of the bag and the lining (a). NOTE:
MAKE SURE YOUR LINING INSIDE IS LAYING FLAT. You may want to place a drop of fray check on the
lining fabric (optional). NOTE: IF YOU HAVE CHOSEN THE ZIPPER CLOSURE, THEN YOU NEED TO
BE CAREFUL WHEN PUNCHING OUT THE HOLES, MAKING SURE THE ZIPPER SECTION IS OUT
OF THE WAY. Place the straps over the holes as shown (b), then place the rivets through all layers (c),
setting the rivets on both of the straps. If you do not have rivets or a rivet setter, then you can use
Chicago screws (you may need to make a larger hole).

(a) (b)

(c) (d)

CONGRATULATIONS!

YOU HAVE NOW COMPLETED YOUR NEW URBAN TOTE!!!!

URBAN TOTE Page 52

 All vinyl All leather

All leather Vinyl with leather straps

and Chicago screws

Special thanks to Patty Mitchell and Sue Reed for all your help in proof reading!
URBAN TOTE Page 53
These are the companies I get my supplies from. However you may have your own personal
choices.

Resources

Edge paint, rivets, punches, Chicago screws, leather glue, Texon (bag stiffener)
Tandy leather
www.tandyleather.com

Zipper ends, rivets, Chicago screws

Emmaline Bags
www.emmalinebags.com

# 5 metal zippers
Bringberry Hardware
www.bringberry.com

Woven interfacing, #3 nylon zipper, #5 nylon zipper, DST leather tape

Cleaners Supply
www.cleanersupply.ca

For any questions regarding the pattern, or information, feel free to contact me
at suecheek@personainternet.com or info@maggy55.com

HAVE FUN SEWING EVERYONE!!!

URBAN TOTE Page 54

 Inspiration from all my fabulous testers

Simona Businelli, Kelley Daugherty Rao, Maryls Frye-Sellmeyer, Carri Galli Molthen, Peggy Hilmer
Gibson, Gwen Lockwood, Leandra Martin, Patty Mitchell, Sue Reed, Tracy Ann Saitow-Cronin,
Larry Schild.

URBAN TOTE Page 55

URBAN TOTE Page 56
 TOP EDGE

A1 A4

A2 A3

RIVET HOLE

RIVET HOLE

1 inch
square A
A1

57
 B A1 A4

A2 A3

A2
C

BASE PLACEMENT

58
 D A1 A4

A2 A3

CENTER LINE
A3
C

BASE PLACEMENT
URBAN TOTE

59
 TOP EDGE

A1 A4

A2 A3

RIVET HOLE

CENTER LINE
RIVET HOLE

A A4
BACK
•CUT 1 EXTERIOR
15 21" W x 13 21" H

60
 TOP EDGE

B1 B2

RIVET HOLE

RIVET HOLE

B1 A

61
 TOP EDGE

B1 B2

RIVET HOLE

CENTER LINE
RIVET HOLE

A B2
UPPER FRONT
•CUT 1 EXTERIOR
15 21" W x 7" H

URBAN TOTE

62
 C1 C4

C2 C3

C1

63
 B
C1 C4

C2 C3

C2

BASE PLACEMENT

64
 D
C1 C4

C2 C3

C3

BASE PLACEMENT
URBAN TOTE

65
 C1 C4

C2 C3

CENTER LINE
C4
FRONT POCKET
•CUT 1 EXTERIOR
15 21" W x 11" H
A

66
 D1 D2

D1
CENTER LINE
A

STITCH LINE

67
 D1 D2

CENTER LINE
D2
EXTERIOR BASE
A •CUT 1 EXTERIOR
11 21" W x 5" H

URBAN TOTE

68
 TOP EDGE
E1 E2

E1
A

ZIPPER PLACEMENT

TOP EDGE
E1 E2

E2
A INSIDE FACING

CENTER LINE
•CUT 2 EXTERIOR
15 21" W x 2 21" H ZIPPER PLACEMENT
URBAN TOTE

69
 F1 F2

F1
11" W x 2" H A

F1 F2

F2
A ZIPPER PLACKET
•CUT 2 EXTERIOR

CENTER LINE
•CUT 2 LINING
•CUT 2 FUSIBLE INTERFACING URBAN TOTE

70
 G1 G4

G2 G3

CUT OUT

G1
A

71
 B
G1 G4

G2 G3

G2
C

72
 D
G1 G4

G2 G3

CENTER LINE
G3
C

URBAN TOTE

73
 G1 G4

G2 G3

CENTER LINE
THIS AREA

G4
LINING MAIN PANEL
A •CUT 2 LINING
•CUT 2 FUSIBLE INTERFACING
15 21" W x 13 21" H (2" Cut out)

74
 H1 H2

H1
A

75
 H1 H2

CENTER LINE
H2
FRONT POCKET LINING
•CUT 2 LINING
A •CUT 2 FUSIBLE INTERFACING
15 21" W x 8" H

CENTER LINE
URBAN TOTE

76
 I
INTERIOR ZIPPER POCKET LINING
•CUT 1 LINING
•CUT 1 FUSIBLE INTERFACING
9" W x 14" H

URBAN TOTE
PLACE ON FOLD

77
 J1 J2

J1
A
STITCH LINE

PLACE ON FOLD

78
 J1 J2

J2
A
INTERIOR SLIP POCKET LINING
•CUT 1 LINING
•CUT 1 FUSIBLE INTERFACING
12" W x 11" H

STITCH LINE URBAN TOTE

PLACE ON FOLD

79
 LEATHER STRAP
RIVET TEMPLATE
URBAN TOTE

VINYL STRAP
RIVET TEMPLATE
URBAN TOTE

CUT OUT THIS AREA

ZIPPER OVERLAY URBAN TOTE

80