Lulu

By tess.crochet
By
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PATTERN INFORMATION
Please read before starting on the pattern.
- This is a pattern made for an intermediate crocheter. Experience with amigurumi is recommended, but not an
absolute requirement. I do not provide in-depth stitch descriptions unless it’s a special stitch for this pattern.
- The pattern is worked in continuous rounds unless stated otherwise.
- All sc are worked as the x-stitch, also known as the yarn under method. This gives you tighter and more
defined stitches. You can still crochet the regular sc, but keep in mind that the shape and size may look
different than what this pattern shows you.
- Use the invisible decrease method. Instead of going through both loops, go through both flo at once and pull
through. This gives a tighter decrease stitch, that blends in better.
- Finished doll measures approximately 26 cm.

ABBREVATIONS (US TERMS) MATERIALS

Mc – magic circle Crochet hook 2,5mm
Ch – chain Scissors
St/sts – stitch/stitches Tapestry needle
Sc – single crochet Safety eyes 6mm
Slst – slip stitch Fiberfill
Hdc – half double crochet Black thread
Dc – double crochet Pipe cleaner
Inc – increase, 2sc in the same st Yarn:
Dec – invisible decrease Yarnart jeans:
Bobble – bobble stitch; start by making a dc, Ochre #07 or Teal #79
pull through yarn but stop before doing the last step of the
White # 01
dc. Repeat this step 4 more times. This gives you a total of
5dc, equaling to 6 loops on the hook. Pick up yarn on hook Alize cotton gold:
and pull yarn through all 6 loops to finish the st.
Light skintone #67 /Darker skin tone #262
() – indicates the number of repeats. Light pink #382
[] – indicates the number of total stitches of the round. Pink #393

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ARMS: Make two.

Use skin toned yarn. Mark the arms in a way that lets
you know which one is the first and second, for the
attachment later.
Rnd 1: Mc – 6sc [6]
Rnd 2: Inc x6 [12]
Rnd 3-5: Sc around (3 rounds) [12]
Rnd 6: Bobble, sc, dec, (2sc, dec) x2. [9]
Stuff the hand lightly, don’t stuff the arm. Push the bobble out.
Rnd 7-29: Sc around (23 rounds) [9]
Rnd 30:
For the first arm, sc until you’re just past the thumb. For me that was 7
st.
For the second arm, stop right before you’re above the thumb. For me
that was 3 st.
The placement of the thumb can turn out different from each person making it. The thumbs should be pointing
forward when attached. Do not fasten off the yarn before you start to connect the arms to the body. This way
you can easily add/retract sts as needed to get the right placement.

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LEGS: Make two.

Begin with skin toned yarn.
Rnd 1: Mc – 6sc [6]
Rnd 2: Inc x6 [12]
Rnd 3-37: Sc around (35 rounds) [12] Stuff the legs as you go. Change to white in the last st.
Rnd 38: Sc around [12] Only cut and F/O the yarn for the first leg. On the last leg, ch3 before connecting the
two legs together as illustrated below.

BODY
Rnd 39: Sc in the first sc of leg 1 (round 38), 11sc, sc in each ch, 12 sc in next leg, sc on the other side of the
ch3 [30]
Rnd 40: Sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x5, 3sc [36]
Rnd 41-43: Sc around (3 rounds) [36] Change to pink in the last st.
Rnd 44: Sc around [36]
Rnd 45: Blo sc around [36]
Rnd 46: Sc around [36]
Rnd 47: Blo sc around [36]
Rnd 48-51: Sc around (4 rounds) [36]
Rnd 52: 10sc, dec, 13sc, dec, 9sc [34]
Rnd 53: Sc around [34]
Rnd 54: 8sc, dec, 11sc, dec, 11sc [32]
Rnd 55: Sc around [32]
Rnd 56: (14sc, dec) x2 [30]
Rnd 57: Sc around [30]
Rnd 58: 4sc, dec, 10sc, dec, 6sc, dec, 4sc [27]
Rnd 59-60: Sc around (2 rounds) [27] Change to skin tone in the last st. Stuff the body. Do not cut the pink
yarn but leave it on the outside of the body for crocheting the border of the dress later.

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CONNECTING THE ARMS

Mark a sc on each side of the body, directly opposite to each other. You
should have approx. the same amount of sts on both sides but leaning
towards having less on the back. This may vary from piece to piece, and
how you crochet. In rnd 61 I describe how I did it. Use it as a guide for
your own round.
Remember when attaching the arms, that you might have to add/retract
some sts to get the thumb facing forward. Start by connecting one arm to
the body, and checking placement before finishing the attachment
All sc made in the body are worked in the blo and regular sc around the
arms. This only applies for rnd 61.
Rnd 61: 6 blo sc, blo sc in the marked st, connect the first arm by
continuing crocheting in the arm. Sc around the arm (9sc), continue to sc
in the next st of rnd 60 (13 blo sc), blo sc in the marked st, connect the
second arm like you did the first arm (9sc). Continue with 6 blo sc in the
body to finish the rnd [45]
Rnd 62: (3sc, dec) x9 [36] Add your pipe cleaner if you’re making a cross
including the arms or add it later for just the neck. Start stuffing the rest
of your dolls body.
Rnd 63: (2sc, dec) x9 [27]
Rnd 64: (sc, dec) x9 [18]
Rnd 65: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
Rnd 66-69: Sc around (4 rounds) [12] We will now pause to work on the
dress edge and skirt. At the end of rnd 69, secure your st with a stitch
marker to continue making the head later, do not F/O. We will now finish
the dress.

DRESS EDGE
Pick up the pink yarn from earlier,
sc around in the remaining flo of
rnd 61. Keep crocheting the same
direction as before to get the sc
right side out. Slst in the first sc,
F/O and weave in the tail.

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TOP SKIRT
Each round for both the top and bottom skirt starts with a ch2, and ends with
a slst in the first st, these do not count as sts.
Rnd 1: Connect pink yarn (same as used for the body) to the remaining flo in
rnd 47 of the body. Start at the back. Ch2, 2dc in same st. Continue with 2dc in
each flo around. Slst in the first dc [72]
Rnd 2: Ch2, dc in same st. Dc in each st around. Slst in the first dc [72]
Rnd 3: Ch2, hdc in same st. Hdc in each st around. Slst in the first dc [72] F/O
and weave in the tail.

BOTTOM SKIRT
Rnd 1: Connect the lighter pink to the remaining flo in rnd 45 of the body.
Start at the back. Ch2, 3dc in same st. Continue with 3dc in each flo around.
Slst in the first dc [108]
Rnd 2: Ch2, 2dc in same st. 2dc in each st around. Slst in the first dc [216]
Rnd 3: Ch2, dc in same st. Dc in each st around. Slst in the first dc [216] F/O
and weave in the tail.

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DRESS SLEEVES: Make two.

Use pink yarn (same as used for top skirt and body)
Ch 12. Turn and skip the first st. Sc, 2hdc in the next 9st, sc. F/O and leave a long yarn tail for attachment. Sew
the sleeves on between the dress border and body, approx. rnd 60-61. Just below the arms on both sides.
Weave in the tails.

HEAD
Continue crocheting from where you last paused on the neck.
Rnd 70: inc x12 [24]
Rnd 71: Inc x 24 [48]
Rnd 72-76: Sc around (5 rounds) [48]
Rnd 77: (7sc, inc) x6 [54]
Rnd 78-81: Sc around (4 rounds) [54]
Rnd 82: (8sc, inc) x6 [60]
Rnd 83-87: Sc around (5 rounds) [60]
Add eyes between rnd 78 and 79. Approx. 12st apart. Measure out
the placement using pins.
Rnd 88: 2sc, dec, (8sc, dec) x5, 6sc [54]
Rnd 89: (7sc, dec) x6 [48]
Rnd 90: 2sc, dec, (6sc, dec) x5, 4sc [42]
Rnd 91: (5sc, dec) x6 [36]
Rnd 92: 2sc, dec, (4sc, dec) x5, 2sc [30]
If you haven’t already, add your pipe cleaner or something similar, to make the neck and head sturdy. Start
stuffing the head. Make sure the head is firmly stuffed, without stretching the stitches.
Rnd 93: (3sc, dec) x6 [24]

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Rnd 94: (2sc, dec) x6 [18]

Rnd 95: (sc, dec) x6 [12]
Rnd 96: (dec) x6 [6] Cut a long tail, sew the hole shut by going through the flo of all sts, pull yarn to close the
hole and weave in the tail.

HAIRCAP
Use ochre or teal yarn.
Rnd 1: Mc – 6sc [6]
Rnd 2: Inc x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: (3sc, inc) x6 [30]
Rnd 6: 2sc, inc, (4sc, inc) x5, 2sc [36]
Rnd 7: (5sc, inc) x6 [42]
Rnd 8: 2sc, inc, (6sc, inc) x5, 4sc [48]
Rnd 9: (7sc, inc) x6 [54]
Rnd 10: 2sc, inc, (8sc, inc) x5, 6sc [60]
Rnd 11-18: Sc around (8 rounds) [60] Continue crocheting the strands.
Strand 1: Ch 30, turn and skip the first ch from the hook. Inc x 10, (sc, inc) x3, 13sc, skip the next sc of rnd 18,
slst in next st [42]
Strand 2: Ch 25, turn and skip the first ch from the hook. Inc x 9, (sc, inc) x3, 9sc, skip the next sc of rnd 18, slst
in next st [36]
Strand 3: Ch 27, turn and skip the first ch from the hook. Inc x 8, (sc, inc) x2, 14sc, skip the next sc of rnd 18,
slst in next st [36]
Strand 4: Ch 32, turn and skip the first ch from the hook. Inc x 10, (sc, inc) x2, 17sc, skip the next sc of rnd 18,
slst in next st [43]
Strand 5: Ch 34, turn and skip the first ch from the hook. Inc x 10, (sc, inc) x2, 19sc, skip the next sc of rnd 18,
slst in the next st [45] F/O and leave a long tail for sewing.

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BUN
Use same color as the cap.
Rnd 1: Mc – 6sc [6]
Rnd 2: Inc x6 [12]
Rnd 3: (sc, inc) x6 [18]
Rnd 4: (2sc, inc) x6 [24]
Rnd 5: sc, inc (3sc, inc) x5, 2sc [30]
Rnd 6-9: Sc around (4 rounds) [30]
Rnd 10: (3sc, dec) x6 [24]
Rnd 11: (sc, dec) x8 [16]
Strand 1: Ch 17, turn and skip the first ch. Inc x11, 5sc, slst in the next st of rnd 11 [27] Cut yarn and leave a
long tail for assembly. Stuff the bun.
The bottom of the bun should cover the center of the haircap, covering from rnd 2-7. Pin it down using
needles and attach to the cap.

HAIRBAND
Use same color yarn as your dress.
Ch 64, turn and skip the first ch. Inc x 22, 19sc, inc x 22 [63]
Cut and F/O and weave in tail. Tie the hairband around the bun.

SHOES
Use same color yarn as your dress.
Rnd 1: Mc – 8sc [8]
Rnd 2: (inc) x8 [16]
Rnd 3-10: Sc around (7 rounds] [16]
Rnd 11: Ch 38, skip the first ch from the hook, sc in each st back [37] Slst in
the same sc from rnd 10. Before cutting the yarn, wrap the lace part around
the foot to see if it fits. Add or retract some sts if needed for the fit.
Cut yarn and sew the other end to the start of rnd 11 and weave in tail.

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FACE DETAILS

Using white yarn to Exit the needle in the Insert needle from the
create an open look. It back of the head. The back. Exit 1 visible st
should go from the haircap will cover this. from the eye between
middle of the outer It should look the eyes, same rnd as
side to the bottom of something like this. eye is placed. Go back
the eye. to the outside, same
rnd, about 3st from the
eye.

Repeat on the other The nose should be Finished look. Add

side. about 3-4 st wide some color by either
between rnd 77-78. Go brushing on some
through about 3 times. blush color on the
cheeks and above the
nose.

Alternatively, use
peach yarn as blush.

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ATTACHING HAIRCAP
The first two strands are parted to the left of the face. It should be right above the left eye, about 7-8 rnds
space between, and approx. 10-12 rnds between nose and haircap. Pin the strands down in a natural
direction. Use my pictures as a guide when you sew on the cap. There should be approx. a 3 rnd gap between
the cap and neck.
You can either sew the cap on or use a strong fabric glue instead.

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Congratulations on finishing your Lulu! A lot of work and love went in to making this pattern, and I hope you
love her as much as I do. If you share your work on social media, please tag me so I can see and share your
work. Tag me on Instagram using #tesscrochet or @tess.crochet. If you have any questions regarding the
pattern, please feel free to contact me either on Instagram, or by email tess.crochet1@gmail.com
As the creator of this pattern, I own the rights to the instructions and pictures provided in this pattern. Purchasing this
pattern gives you the right to crochet this doll as much as you like and resell your made products. Please mention me as
the designer when sharing/selling your made doll. You cannot copy, alter, resell or share this pattern with others.

Much love,

Terese Auestad

For personal use only. Sharing, copying, and reselling are not permitted. ©2022 tess.crochet/Terese Auestad