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20 Important
Traditional
Textiles of
India
 Traditional Textiles of India

Embroiderd Resist Dyed Printed Handwoven

Textiles Textiles Textiles Textiles

embroidery or the art of Resist dyeing is a technique of The traditional method of The richness and diversity of
needlework resulted from colouring yarn or fabric in printing textiles was by India’s woven textiles are talked
the passion of womenfolk order to create a pattern by using hand carved wooden about for the last two thousand
to express their creativity blocking or resisting certain blocks. The designs were years in the global market.
and ornament their areas, so that only the printed using vegetable dyes Foreigners, local travelers and
apparel and household unblocked areas receive to obtain bright terracotta writers have described the
textiles. colour. Resist materials like red, indigo blue, turmeric textures, quality and the designs
The art of embroidery thread, wax, rice or mud paste yellow and deep green. The of Indian fabrics in great detail.
dates back to as early as can be used keeping in view Indian printer’s skills were Various kinds of looms are used in
the Indus Valley the patterns. admired the world over to different regions in India. apart
civilization. Bronze and Traditional resist dyed textiles create intricate patterns from simple pit looms, frame
copper awls excavated in of India can be broadly using indigenous knowledge looms and complex 'jala' looms,
Harappa confirm that classified into two categories: of mixing and overlapping to back-strap looms are also popular
embroidery was a Bandhani or Bandhej - Cloth achieve varied tones of in North eastern states.
practiced craft in ancient resist dyed textiles colours
times. Ikat – Yarn resist dyed textile
Embroidered Textiles Resist Dyed Textiles Printed Textiles Handwoven Textiles
Northern India: Bandhani - Printed Textiles Saris
(i) Kashida From Kashmir i. Bandhani Of Gujarat i. Bagru Prints i. Banaras Brocades
(ii) Phulkari From Punjab ii. Special Bandhani From Rajasthan ii. Baluchari Saris
(iii) Chamba Rumal From Himachal Textiles From ii. Sanganer Prints iii. Jamdani Saris
Pradesh Gujarat From Rajasthan iv. Paithani Saris
Western India: iii. Bandhej & Lehariya iii. Kalamkari From v. Kanjeevaram Saris
(I) Embroidery From Gujarat Of Rajasthan Andhra Pradesh vi. Chanderi Saris
(II) Parsi Embroidery iv. Special Tie-dyed vii. Maheshwari Saris
Central India: Textiles From Shawls
(i) Chikankari From Uttar Pradesh Rajasthan i. Kashmir Shawls
(Ii) Phool Patti Ka Kaam From UP Ikat ii. Kullu & Kinnaur
(Iii) Zardozi From Uttar Pradesh i. Patola Of Gujarat Shawls
Southern India: ii. Bandhas Of Odisha Other Textiles-
(i) Kasuti From Karnataka iii. Ikat Textiles Of 1. Wraps Of North-east
(ii) (Ii) Lambadi Embroidery From Telangana 2. Floor Coverings
Andhra Pradesh 1) Telia Rumal 3. Carpets
Eastern India: 2) Pochampalli 4. Durries & Rugs
(i) Kantha From West Bengal Ikats
(Ii) Sujani From Bihar
(Iii) Pipli Appliqué From Orissa
Name: Kalamkari- (Andhra Pradesh) Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes (2013)
Pedana Kalamkari, Krishna Dist

Important Points-
Kalamkari is an ancient style of hand painting done on
cotton or silk fabric with a tamarind pen, using natural
dyes.
There are two identifiable styles of Kalamkari art in India.
1. Srikalahasti style – It draws inspiration from the
Hindu mythology describing scenes from the epics
and folklore. This style holds a strong religious
connect because of its origin in the temples.
2. Machilipatnam style- Motifs are essentially printed
with hand-carved traditional blocks with intricate
detailing painted by hands.
Name: Kashmir pashmina Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes

Important Points-
1. Bureau of Indian Standards (BIS) has published an
Indian Standard for identification, marking and
labelling of Pashmina products to certify its purity.
2. Changthangi or Pashmina goat: It is a special
breed of goat indigenous to the high altitude
regions of Ladakh in Jammu and Kashmir.
3. They are raised for ultra-fine cashmere wool,
known as Pashmina once woven.
4. These goats are generally domesticated and
reared by nomadic communities called the
Changpa in the Changthang region of Greater
Ladakh.
5. Raw pashmina is exported to Kashmir where the
combing, spinning, weaving and finishing
Name: Phulkari of Punjab Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes

Important Points-
1. It is one of the famous embroidery traditions of Punjab.
2. Its distinctive property is that the base is a dull hand-
spun or khaki cloth, with bright coloured threads that
cover it completely, leaving no gaps. It is believed to be
auspicious, a symbol of happiness, prosperity and Suhag
of a married woman.
3. The two embroidery styles prevalent in Punjab are Bagh
and Phulkari.
4. Bagh is a fully embroidered wrap that is used for special
occasions whereas Phulkari is simple and lightly
embroidered for everyday use
5. The motifs used in Phulkari are inspired by objects of
everyday use like rolling pin, sword, flowers, vegetables,
birds, animals etc.
Name: Kutch and Kathiawar Embroidery, Gujarat Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes
Important Points-
1. It is signature art form of tribal community of Kutch and
Kathiawar.
2. This art form is generally done by six styles: Suf, khaarek,
paako, Rabari, Garasia Jat, and Mutava.
3. The stitches used in the embroidery of Sindh, Kutch and
Kathiawar are chain stitch, herringbone, interlacing stitch,
darning stitch and buttonhole stitch.
4. Colors used: Chain stitch is usually done in white or any
other color, interlacing stitch is done with indigo, blue,
crimson, red, green, yellow.
5. The signature effect of the colorful embroidery sparkles
when small mirrors called abhla are sewn over the
geometrically shaped designs.
6. Depending on the tribal sub groups of Rabari, Garasia Jat,
and Mutava involved with this craft work many hand
embroidered styles have evolved.
Name: Sujini Embroidery Work of Bihar Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes
Important Points-
1. Sujini and Khatwa Embroidery is famous as well as
beautiful work of handicraft in Bihar.
2. Traditionally, Sujani is embroided quilt made in Bihar
by recycling a number of worn out saris and/or
dhotis in a simple running stitch that gave the old
cloth a new structure while ornamenting it.
3. Sujani was sometimes stitched in white, red and
black, drawn from the borders of old saris.
4. The embroiderers outline and fill motifs in a circular
manner with coloured quilting stitches, while
covering the background with white stitching.
5. The circular stitching creates a dimensional distortion
which renders a unique surface character.
Name: Chikankari (Uttar Pradesh) Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes

Important Points-
1. The present form of chikan (meaning elegant patterns on
fabric) work is associated with the city of Lucknow, in UP.
The other chikan styles are that of Calcutta and Dacca .
2. At least 40 different stitches are documented, of which
about 30 are still practiced today and include flat, raised
,embossed stitches, and the open trellis-like jaali work.
3. Some of the stitches that are used in Chikankari work
include: taipchi, pechni, pashni, bakhia (ulta bakhia and
sidhi bakhia), gitti, jangira, murri, phanda, jaalis etc.
4. The artisans usually create motifs or butis of animals and
flowers (rose, lotus, jasmine, creepers).
5. The designs are first printed onto the fabric not with
chaulk, but with a mixture of glue and indigo.
Name: Pipli Applique Work, Odisha Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes
Important Points-
1. The ornamental needlework of the Pipli village is
popularly known 'Pipli Applique Work’.
2. This art involves embroidering ,stitching of small pieces
coloured cloth with flower, village, scenes, animals.
3. It is called Chandua based on patchwork: brightly
coloured and patterned fabric pieces are sewn together
on a plain background mostly velvet along with Mirror
and lace work.
4. Designs include Hindu gods, human forms, animals,
flowers and vehicles.
5. Originally Chandua work was done to built the chariots
for Puri Rath Yatra and also used for parasols, canopies ,
pillows for Rath Yatra.
6. Nowadays different home decor items can be found, such
as lamp shades, garden umbrellas ,bed covers and utility
products like Hand bags.
Name: Kantha of West Bengal Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes

Important Points-
1. Kantha means 'throat'. In this art, needle ,thread is used to
stitch on sari, kurta/ Panjabi and many other garments.
2. Naksha is embroidery on many layers of cloth (like quilting),
with running stitch.
3. It is also known as dorukha which mean the designs/motifs
are equally visible in both sides: both sides are usable.
4. Traditionally, worn out clothes and saris were piled together
stitched into quilts.
5. Rural Bengali women still do this with cotton saris, the
embroidery thread being taken from the sari border.
6. It started as a method of making quilts, but the same type of
embroidery can also be found on saris, salwar suits, stoles,
napkins, etc.
7. Themes include human beings, animals, flowers, geometric
designs and mythological figures
Name: Telangana’s Telia Rumal Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes,2020
Important Points-
1. Telia Rumal cloth involves intricate handmade work with
cotton loom displaying a variety of designs and motifs in
three particular colours — red, black and white.
2. The Rumal can only be created using the traditional
handloom process and not by any other mechanical
means as otherwise, the very quality of the Rumal would
be lost.
3. During the Nizam’s dynasty, Puttapaka, a small, backward
village of the Telangana region of Andhra Pradesh had
about 20 families engaged in handloom weaving, who
were patronized by rich families and the Nizam rulers.
4. The officers working in the court of the Nizam would
wear the Chituki Telia Rumal as a symbolic representation
of status.
Name: Kota Doria (Jaipur, Rajasthan) Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes:Filing:2009,Availabilty:2010

Important Points-
1. Kota Doria or Kota Doriya is the name of a light woven
fabric made of tiny woven squares (khat) which is still
hand woven on traditional pit looms in Kaithoon near
Kota in Rajasthan and in some of the surrounding
villages.
2. Kota Doriya Sarees are made of pure cotton and silk
and have square like patterns known as khats on them.
3. The chequered weave of a Kota sari is very popular.
They are very fine weaves and weigh very little.
4. It is very famous in rajasthan as well as in many other
parts of the world.
5. The motifs are usually inspired by nature and may
consist of flowers, leaves and birds or animals such as
peacocks, parrots and elephants.
Name: Bagru prints from Rajasthan Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes. Filing;2009,Availabilty: 2011

Important Points-
1. Known for its mud-resist block prints.
2. In Bagru, the printer first processes the raw material
which is mainly cotton.
3. Other natural fabrics are silk, cotton and silk blends etc.
4. Single motifs like flowers, leaves and buds.
5. Some examples are suraj ka phool, chakri, anguthi,
gende ka phool. entwined tendrils that include all over
jaal of leaves, flowers and buds.
6. Trellis patterns include jaalis from the Mughul period.
7. Figurative designs that include animal and human
figures such as elephant, deer, lion, peacock, dancing
women, warrior men etc.
Name: Chamba Rumal, Himachal Pradesh Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes,Filing:2007,Availabilty:2008

Important Points-
1. There is a mention of this embroidery being practiced in
Pathankot, Chamba and other remote villages of
Himachal Pradesh in Buddhist literature and the Jataka
Tales.
2. Chamba was known for the most picturesque needle
work, which the Romans described as ‘needle painting’.
3. The embroidery is executed on two types of unbleached
cotton cloth: lightweight, delicate muslin or handspun,
hand-woven, coarser khaddar.
4. untwisted, dyed silk threads ‘Pat’ in bright colours like
red, yellow, green, blue, crimson and purple are used for
the embroidery.
5. The motifs used are inspired from Pahari paintings
depicting lord Krishna and his playful antics
Name: Kullu Shawl, Himachal Pradesh Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes,2004

Important Points-
1. This valley is famous for its temples, beauty and its
majestic hills covered with pine and deodar forest and
sprawling apple orchards and hand woven textiles
especially stole, shawl, muffler and tweed.
2. The design is inspired from the engraving on wall of
temples and Buddhist monasteries.
3. The design is first developed on graph paper and then
it is woven on ordinary fly shuttle frame loom.
4. Kullu shawl is famous for its intricate multi-colour
strong geometrical pattern woven with woollen yarns.
Name: Mizo Puanchei Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes,2020

Important Points-
1. Mizo Puanchei, a colourful Mizo shawl/textile, from
Mizoram, is considered as the most colourful
among the Mizo textiles.
2. It is an essential possession for every Mizo lady and
an important marriage outfit in the state.
3. It is also the most commonly used costume in Mizo
festive dances and official ceremonies.
4. The weavers insert the designs and motifs by using
supplementary yarns while weaving to create this
beautiful and alluring textile.
Name: Kandangi Saree , Tamil Nadu Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes,2020

Important Points-
1. The Kandangi sarees are manufactured in the entire
Karaikudi taluk in Sivaganga district.
2. They are characterised by large contrast borders and
some are known to have borders covering as far as
two-thirds of the saree which is usually around 5.10
m-5.60 m in length.
3. Worn in summer, these cotton sarees are usually
bought by customers in bulk.
4. The Amarar Rajeev Gandhi Handloom Weavers Co-
operative Production and Sales Society Limited filed
the application for the Kandangi saree.
Name: Sanganer prints from Rajasthan Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not:Yes,Filing:2008,Availability:2009
Important Points-
1. The motifs seen in Sanganer prints are same as the
ones used in Bagru.
2. The block printing is done mainly for products such as
saris, dupattas, salwar kameez sets, bedcover,
curtains, scarves, and yardage for apparel and home.
3. The bright vibrant colours are printed on white, off
white or light colour background. Firstly the outlines
are printed with fine blocks and then varied colours
are filled in with a set of blocks. For each colour, a
separate block is required.
4. Sanganer on the outskirts of Jaipur is a large centre
for printing on fabrics. Many block printing and screen
printing units are located here.
Name: Poothkuli Embroidary; Image:
Toda embroidery, Tamil Nadu
GI Tag Granted/Not: Yes
Important Points-
1. The Toda embroidery has its origins in Tamil Nadu.
2. The Nilgiri Hills, inhabited by the Todu community
have their own style called pugur, means flower.
3. This embroidery, like Kantha, is practiced by women.
4. The embroidery adorns the shawls.
5. The shawl, called poothkuli, has red and black bands
between which the embroidery is done.
6. As Todas worship the buffaloes, buffalo becomes an
important motif in the Toda embroidery among
mettvi kaanpugur, Izhadvinpuguti and others.
7. Stylized sun, moon, stars and the eye of the peacock
feathers are used in Toda embroidery.
Name: Zardozi or Zari or kalabattu,Lucknow Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not:Yes,Filing:2011,Availabilty:2012
Important Points-
1. Zardozi, the gold and silver embroidery is practiced in
lucknow, agra, Varanasi, Bareilly, Bhopal, Delhi and Chennai.
2. The motifs used are mainly floral and geometrical.
3. Some popular motifs are creepers, flowering bush, floral
scrolls and intricate jali patterns.
4. There are two embroidery styles namely Karchobi and
Kamdani under Zardozi.
5. In Karchobi, the fabric is clamped on wooden frame and
elaborately embroidered to create decorative home
furnishings and ornate apparel.
6. Kamdani is lighter embroidery done on apparel like dupattas
and scarves without clamping the fabric on any frame.
7. Zardozi was traditionally done to ornament wall hangings,
bedcovers, cushion covers, curtains, palanquin covers.
Name: IKAT FABRIC — Pochampalli, Hyderabad Image:

GI Tag Granted/Not: No
Important Points-
1. This double ikat textile is known for its geometric
pattern and an intentional bleed.
2. The process used to do so is known as Resist Dyeing
also called ikat, wherein a host of methods are used to
prevent the dye from spreading all across the fabric.
3. The place Pochampally has got it place in UNESCO
World heritage site as a part of iconic weaving cluster of
India.
Name: JAMDANI — West Bengal Image:
GI Tag Granted/Not: No

Important Points-
1. Jamdani means, a vase of flowers.
2. History of this fabric dates back to the early ages,
wherein mentions of the fabric are seen scripted in
Arthashashtra written by Kautilya.
3. The glory of this fabric can also be seen mentioned in
the writings of Chinese, Italian, and Arab travelers.
4. Basically this fabric is of unbleached cotton yarn. Saris
are woven using this method are called as terchha.
5. The part of the sari which goes over the shoulder is
decorated with motifs called jhalar.
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