PCOS 311 LEC

Overview of Cosmetic Science TYPES OF COSMETICS INGREDIENTS

COSMETIC SCIENCE
Functional ingredients are the ones that provide the benefit of
What is Cosmetics? cosmetics. They include cleansers (surfactants), conditioning
Cosmetics means any article intended to be rubbed, poured, agents, colorants, fragrances, reactive ingredients, film formers,
sprinkled or sprayed on, or introduced into, or otherwise applied and drug actives. Every cosmetic you’ve ever used or made has at
to, the human body or any part thereof for cleansing, beautifying, least one functional ingredient.
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance, includes any
article intended for use as a component of cosmetic. Aesthetic ingredients are those that help make delivery of the
functional ingredients more acceptable. These are ingredients like
What is Cosmetic Science? solvents, thickeners, preservatives, fragrances, pH adjusters,
Cosmetic science is the study of the effects that raw materials and plasticizers, fillers, appearance modifiers, anti-oxidants, anti
mixtures can have on parts of the human body like hair, skin, lips irritants, and delivery systems.
and nails. The subject of cosmetic science actually overlaps with a
number of sciences including Chemistry, Physics and Biology but Claims ingredients are ingredients added to a formula at a low level
also includes softer topics like Marketing and Market Research. for the primary purpose of getting to put the ingredient name on
the label. This includes ingredients like natural extracts, vitamins,
proteins, biotechnology, and fanciful made-up ingredient names.
HISTORY OF COSMETIC SCIENCE

The word ‘‘cosmetic’’ is derived from the Greek word Kosm tikos, ASEAN GUIDELINES FOR COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING
meaning ‘‘having the power to arrange, skilled in decorating giving PRACTICE
kosmein, ‘‘to adorn,’’ and kosmos, ‘‘order, harmony’’, but the true
origin of cosmetics probably lies further still in antiquity, because The objective of the Cosmetic Good Manufacturing Practice ( GMP )
early cave paintings of 30,000 years ago depict the use of body Guidelines is to ensure that products are consistently manufactured
adornment (rudimentary cosmetics) in the rituals of mating and and controlled to the specified quality. It is concerned with all
hunting. aspects of production and quality control.

Throughout the recorded history of man, cosmetics have been used Quality Management System A quality system should be
with essentially the same three goals in mind, namely: developed, established and implemented as a means by which
1. to enhance personal appeal through decoration of the stated policies and objectives will be achieved. It should define the
body, organizational structure, functions, responsibilities, procedures,
2. to camouflage flaws in the integument, and instructions, processes and resources for implementing the quality
3. to alter or improve upon nature management.

Several historical vignettes showing the role of cosmetics down Personnel There should be an adequate number of personnel
through the ages: having knowledge, experience, skill and capabilities relevant to
o Vases of alabaster and obsidian for cosmetics discovered their assigned function. They should be in good health and capable
by Flinders Petrie in 1914 illustrate that the ancient of handling the duties assigned to them.
Egyptians were well versed in the use of eye and face
paints, body oils, and ointments Premises The premises for manufacturing should be suitably
o Theophrastus (363–278 BC), a student of Aristotle, located, designed, constructed and maintained.
demonstrated considerable knowledge of the
compounding of perfumes, Equipment Equipment should be designed and located to suit the
o The Roman physician, Galen of Pergamon (130–200 AD), production of the product.
is said to have innovated that time-honored toiletry: cold  Design and Construction
cream (Cera Alba).  Installation and Location
o The Babylonians were said by Herodotus (490–420 b.c.)  Maintenance
to be well practiced in the use of depilatories and the eye
adornment. Sanitation and hygiene should be practiced to avoid
o Alexander the Great (356–323 b.c.) reported the use of contamination of the manufacturing of products. It should cover
unguents, incense, and other cosmetics by the countries of personnel, premises, equipment/apparatus and production
the Indo-Sumerian civilization. materials and containers.

Production
RAW MATERIALS USED IN COSMETICS  Starting Materials
 Batch Numbering System
The raw materials that are used in most cosmetics around the  Weighing and Measurement
world are listed in the International Nomenclature of Cosmetic  Procedure and Processing
Ingredients Dictionary. The latest edition of the INCI Dictionary has  Dry Products
over 22,000 entries.  Wet Products
 Labelling and Packaging
In reality, those thousands of options can all be simplified and it has
come up that there are really only three types of cosmetic Starting Materials
ingredients. These include functional, aesthetic and claims.  Water - Special Attention should be paid to water, since it
is an important raw material. Water production
equipment and water systems should supply quality
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water. Water systems should be sanitized according to REGULATORY ISSUANCE GOVERNING COSMETIC PRODUCT
well established procedures. NOTIFICATION
 Verification of materials - All deliveries of raw materials
and packaging materials should be checked and verified The company or person responsible for placing the cosmetic
for their conformity to specifications and be traceable to products in the market must notify the regulatory authority
the product. responsible for cosmetics of each Member State where the product
 Rejected materials - Deliveries of raw materials that do will be marketed, of the place of manufacture or of initial
not comply with specification should be segregated and importation before the product is placed in the market, using the
disposed according to standard operating procedures. Product Notification Form prescribed by the regulatory authority.

Batch Numbering System The product can only be marketed after notification has been sent
 Every finished product should bear a production to the regulatory authority and acknowledgement has been
identification number which enables the history of the received
product to be traced.
 A batch numbering system should be specific for the Aiming to streamline the process by updating the submission of
product and a particular batch number shall not be application requirements from the previously manual form to
repeated for the same product in order to avoid confusion online submissions, the Food and Drug Administration (FDA)
allowed online application process.
Dry Products
 Handling of dry materials and products should be given This modernization was kickstarted in March 2013 through FDA
special attention. Where possible, dust-containing Memorandum Circular No. 2013-011.
production system, central vacuum system or other
suitable methods should be employed.
What Information should be Declared in the Product Notification?
Wet Products ◉ Brand Name/Product Name/Product Variants
 The used of closed systems of production and transfer is ◉ Product Type
recommended. ◉ Particulars of the Product
◉ Intended Use
Labelling and Packaging ◉ Product Presentations
 Packaging line should be inspected for clearance prior to ◉ Local Company Responsible for Placing the Cosmetic Product in
operation. Equipment should be clean and functional. All the Market
materials and products from previous packaging ◉ Establishment Information
operation should have been removed. ◉ Person Representing the Local Company
 Samples should be taken and checked at random during ◉ Product Ingredient List
labelling and packaging operations.
 Each labelling and packaging line should be clearly Procedures in the Application for Cosmetic Product
identified to avoid mix up. Notification in the Philippines
o The application process has four (4) main parts:
o Submission
ASEAN GUIDELINES FOR COSMETIC GOOD MANUFACTURING o Payment
PRACTICE o Download Result, and
o Revalidation
Quality Control
Quality control is an essential part of GMP. It provides assurance APPLICATION PROCESS
that cosmetic products will be of consistent quality appropriate to 1. Submission:
their intended use. o This is now done through the FDA’s portal at
 Reprocessing https://www.fda.gov.ph
 Returned Products o Once you have filled up the necessary details of the
cosmetic product to be notified, you can submit the
application with the FDA through their portal.
Internal Audits
An internal audit may be conducted by outside or independent
2. Payment
specialists or a team designated by the management for this
o Filing fee depends on the number of years of the validity
purpose. Such audits may also be extended to suppliers and
of the registration.
contractors, if necessary.
3. Download Results
o There are instances when the FDA will send an email
Storage
 Storage areas should be of sufficient capacity requiring additional documents or information
 Storage areas should be designed or adapted to ensure concerning the application.
good storage conditions. o Compliance with the email by submitting the required
documents or supplying the needed information is a
requisite to the FDAs approval of the notification.
o On the other hand, the failure to comply with the
additional documents or information required will lead to
the rejection of the application for notification.
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4. Revalidation
o Acknowledged cosmetic notifications may be revalidated
for a new validity date, where the new validity date will
be based on the date of submission of the revalidation
application.

Hair Products (Part 1)

Hair and Hair Follicles

Hair is composed primarily of proteins (88%) These proteins are of
a hard fibrous type known as keratin. Keratin protein is comprised
of what we call "polypeptide chains.”

Chemical Composition of Hair

o Hair made up of 20 amino acids.
o Body produces 11 of the 20, the remainder must
come from diet.
o Proteins are sources of amino acids.
o A healthy diet is necessary for healthy hair.

Hair Color
o All natural hair colors are the result of two types of hair ANATOMY OF HAIR
pigments. I- THE SHAFT
o Both of these pigments are Melanin types, produced A- The medulla
inside the hair follicle and packed into granules found in B- The Cortex
the fibers. C- The cuticle
o Eumelanin is the dominant pigment in brown hair, and
black hair while pheomelanin is dominant in red hair.
II- THE ROOT
A- The hair bulb
Normal scalp hair growth patterns B- The erector pili muscles
o Average total number of scalp hairs is 100,000 hairs.
o Average rate of growth is 0.35 mm/day. HAIR SHAFT
o Hair grows faster in summer than in winter. There are 3 main layers of the hair shaft.
o Average daily loss is 25-100 hairs /day. 1. CUTICLE: The outermost layer of the hair. It consists of a
o Fastest growth is between 15-30 years. single layer of transparent, scale like cells that overlap
like shingles on a roof. A healthy, compact cuticle layer is
o Female hair grows faster than male hair.
the hair’s primary defense against damage.
2. CORTEX: The middle layer of hair; a fibrous protein core
formed by elongated cells containing melanin pigment.
TYPES OF HAIR
About 90 percent of hair weight comes from the cortex.
o Vellus (lanugo) hair: short, fine, downy, unpigmented hair
Protein structures located in the cortex provide hair
on body. elasticity. Changes resulting from chemical services occur
o Terminal hair: long, thick, pigmented hair found on scalp, in the cortex.
legs, arms, and body. 3. MEDULLA: Innermost layer; also referred to as the
pith(Core) of the hair. It is composed of round cells. Very
fine and naturally blonde hair may not even have a
SHAPES OF HAIR medulla. Thick, coarse hair and beard hair always contain
The shape of the hair shaft determines whether hair is straight or a medulla.
curly.
o If the shaft is round, the hair is straight.
o If the shaft is oval, the hair is wavy. HAIR LIFE CYCLE
o f the shaft is flat, the hair is curly or kinky. There are 3 phases in the hair life cycle. “Hair shedding usually
occurs in the transition phase, but can also occur in the resting
phase.”

Active-Growth Phase (ANAGEN): Active growth period is 2-5 years

before replacement.

Transition Phase (CATAGEN): lasts one or two weeks & hair follicle
shrinks about 80%.
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Resting Phase (TELOGEN): After five or six weeks, dermal papilla h) Thickening agents
reconnects to base of hair follicle and bloodstream. The hair re- i) Sequestering Agents
enters the active-growth phase and a new hair begins to from.

HAIR TONICS AND CONDITIONERS

The term “hair tonic” has been used for some hair preparations
because the term is used in therapeutics. Hair tonic is one kind of
hair repairing tonic and re-texturing the hair. There are two
distinct types of products :

1. Products those deals with specific problems of the hair.

E.g., greasy hair, dandruff
2. Those products which are intended for improving,
Hair Products (Part 2) restoring, & maintaining the condition of the hair.
TYPES AND PREPARATIONS OF HAIR CARE PRODUCTS
Medicated Products
SHAMPOO o The purpose of this products is to cure, to reduce, to
o The word shampoo is derived from Hindustani chā mpo. restrain & some abnormality in the function of scalp.
o Shampoo is a hair care product that is used for the o In the past, use was often made of irritant, keratolytic,
removal of oils, dirt, skin particles, dandruff, rubefacient compounds.
environmental pollutants and other contaminant particles o The recent trend is that the treatment should rather bring
that gradually build up in hair. about a return to a normal state & promote balance.
o Medicated products are mainly deal with dandruff,
Ideal Properties seborrhea & hair loss
1. Smooth and Shiny
2. Produce Foam Conditioners
3. No irritation Hair conditioners are viscous liquid that is applied to the hair & are
4. Remove dirt completely usually used after washing the hair with shampoo.
5. Impart fragrance o It is designed to restore hair to its natural state.
6. Readily removed o It has the ability to repair damage hair by providing shiny
look to the hair fibers.
Functions o Hair conditioner restores the texture & appearance of the
1. Completely remove dirt rough & harsh hair.
2. Protect the Hair o Hair conditioner are used to render the hair shiny, easy to
3. Cleaning of hair comb & free from dryness.
4. Soothe the scalp skin
5. Nourishment of hair
6. Treating dandruff, lice or other scalp problems PURPOSES OF HAIR CONDITIONER
1. Restoring moisture is one of the main important
purposes.
CLASSIFICATION OF SHAMPOO 2. Hair should be manageable after wash.
3. Its vital role is to be smoothing the hair follicles.
I. BASED ON APPERANCE 4. Should maintain the pH of the hair.
a) Powder Shampoos
b) Liquid Shampoos or Lotion
c) Gel Shampoos or Solid Cream FUNCTIONS OF HAIR CONDITIONER
d) Cream Shampoos 1. Non- irritant
e) Oil Shampoos 2. Smooth & soften the hair
f) Miscellaneous-anti dandruff, medicated shampoo 3. Texture
4. Protective sheath
5. Tighten the cuticle scales
II. BASED ON USE 6. Provide bounce
a) Conditioning Shampoos
b) Antidandruff and Therapeutic TYPES OF CONDITIONERS
c) Baby 1. Pack Conditioners
d) Balancing o It is heavy and thick.
e) Clarifying
o A high content of surfactant it is able to bind the hair
structure & glue the hair surface scale together & tend to
form thicker layer on the hair surface.
COMPOSITIONS OF SHAMPOO
o These are usually applied to the hair for a longer time.
a) Water
b) Surfactants
c) Foam boosters and stabilizers
d) Opacifiers 2. Leave in Conditioners
e) Clarifying agents o They are thinner & have different surfactants.
f) Antidandruff agents o It is lighter, less viscous mixture & provides a significantly
g) Conditioning Agents thinner layer on the hair.
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o This is designed to be used in a similar way to hair oil 6. Colourants should be stable over time in the aqueous
preventing tangling of hair & keeping it smooth. solutions and formulated products in forms in which they
are sold and used.
3. Ordinary Conditioners 7. It should not produce different colouration on different
o It combines some aspects of both packs & leave in ones. parts of the same hair.
o These are generally applied after the use of shampoo.
o Further, it can be characterized into 3 main type: RAW MATERIALS
a) Moisturizer Differ from manufacturer to manufacturer. But in general, hair dyes
b) Re-constructers include:
c) Detangles o Modifiers,
o Antioxidants,
o Alkali
o Soaps,
ORDINARY HAIR CONDITIONER o Ammonia
a) Moisturizers o Wetting agents,
o These are organic solvent concentrated with humectant. o Fragrance
o Humectant is to retain the moisture into the hair. o A variety of other chemicals used in small amounts that
o This conditioner may not contain protein. impart special qualities to hair (such as softening the
texture) or give a desired action to the dye (such as
b) Re-constructers making it more or less permanent).
o It contains proteins for hydrolyzation. o Dye chemicals are usually amino compounds
o Human hair keratin protein has a low molecular weight. o Other chemicals used in hair dyes act as modifiers, which
o This protein penetrates the hair shaft & gives a shiny hair. stabilize the dye pigments or otherwise act to modify the
shade.
c) Detanglers o The modifiers may bring out color tones, such as green or
o These are acidifiers & have low pH. purple, which complement the dye pigment. e.g.
o The function is to close the cuticle of the hair, which cause resorcinol
tangles. o Antioxidants protect the dye from oxidizing with air. Most
o The protection or shield mechanism is done by surfactant commonly used is sodium sulfite
& polymers. o Alkali are added to change the pH of the dye formula,
because the dyes work best in a highly alkaline
composition. Ammonium hydroxide is a common alkali.
COMPOSITIONS OF CONDITIONERS
a) Surfactants TYPES OF HAIR COLORANTS
b) Partially or totally hydrolyzed proteins
c) Oily materials Temporary Hair Color
d) Glossers o Temporary hair color is available in various product
e) Humectant forms including rinses, shampoos, gels, sprays, foams.
f) Thickeners o This type of hair color is typically used to give brighter,
g) Bodying agent more vibrant shades or colors such as orange or red, that
h) Perfumes may be difficult to achieve with semi-permanent and
permanent hair color.
o While temporary hair color products hold a lesser market
HAIR COLORANTS than semi- permanent and permanent agents, they have
The colouring of hair is one of the most important acts of value in that they can be easily and quickly removed
adornment among those made by men and women since the origin without bleaching or application of a different coloring
of man. The reasons for getting the hair coloured have been: product.
o To change the natural colour o These colorants do not penetrate into cortex or medulla.
o To colour the white hair which begin to appear with age o As such the dye is easily removed with shampoo so
o To change the colour of the hair temporarily on a known as temporary hair color
particular occasion.
Semi-Permanent Hair Color
CHARACTERISTICS OF AN IDEAL HAIR COLOURANT o Give stronger & more permanent coloration to hair than
1. It should be non-injurious to hair shaft but should colour temporary hair colorant
the hair without impairing the natural texture and gloss. o Some colors are removed in 4-8 shampooing’s
2. It should possess no primary irritant action and be free o Dyes used are:
from sensitizing properties. o Ntirophenyledenediamine,
3. It should produce no toxic effect when in contact with the o Nitroaminopheols,
skin
o Aminoanthraquinones.
4. The colour of the dyed hair should be stable to air,
o Mixture is prepared before preparing color shades.
sunlight, friction and sweat.
5. It should not change colour, nor bleach out on the o Should be studied on white wool or hair.
application of toilet preparations such as setting lotion, o Semi hair color has no Ammonia.
hair waving preparation, soap or shampoo etc.
Permanent Hair Color
o All "permanent" haircolor products and lighteners contain
both a developer, or oxidizing agent, and an alkalizing
PCOS 311 LEC
ingredient as part of their ammonia or an ammonia o The trichological analysis determines changes in hair
substitute. growth patterns. During this test, a trained professional
o The purpose of this is to: uses a dermascope or videoscope to survey the scalp and
o raise the cuticle of the hair fiber so the tint can record changes in observed hair growth patterns.
penetrate,
o facilitate the formation of tints within the hair b) Traction Test
fiber, o The Traction Test also known as Gravimetric “Pull”
o bring about the lightening action of peroxide Analysis, “Sabouraud’s sign,” or “the pull-out sign” is used
o When the tint (color) containing the alkalizing ingredient to measure hair shedding patterns. Prior to shampooing,
is combined with the developer (usually hydrogen 20-60 strands of subjects’ hair are grasped at the base of
peroxide), the peroxide becomes alkaline and diffuses the strands and tugged firmly away from the scalp. Active
through the hair fiber, entering the cortex, where the hair shedding is indicated by pulling more than 10% of
melanin is located. strands from the scalp.
o The lightening occurs when the alkaline peroxide breaks
up the melanin and replaces it with new color. c) Hair Pluck” Test
o The “Hair Pluck” Test evaluates changes in hair growth
cycles and in hair breakage over time using hair shafts
HAIR PRODUCTS (PART 3) “plucked” from the scalp
d) Regimented Combing Technique
SAFETY AND EVALUATION: HAIR CARE PRODUCTS o The Regimented Combing Technique is used to assess
o Hair care product performance and safety ultimately changes in hair fallout rates. For this test, panelists are
determine product success and longevity. For best market asked to use a specific combing technique to evaluate hair
results, precisely planned performance and safety fallout rates.
evaluations are required.
o Moreover, international regulatory agencies require a e) Tensile Test
demonstration of product safety to ensure that new-to- o Tensile Tests measure any alterations in hair strength and
market products will not pose health risks or harm to resilience. Hair tensile strength is measured using the Dia-
consumers. Stron Mini Tensile Tester (MTT). The MTT device uses 3-
o As such, product manufacturers and distributors are point bending and torsion tests to measure the force
responsible for collecting ample information on their overtime required to elongate and break a strand of hair.
products’ safety and efficacy before going to market.
o Comprehensive hair care product performance testing
typically has two key phases: Pre-clinical testing followed
by clinical study design, data collection, and evaluation.

Phases of comprehensive hair care product performance testing:

Phase I: Pre-Clinical Testing
Because hair care products will contact the skin and hair and will
likely contact the eyes, pre-clinical dermal and ocular toxicity and
irritation testing is required early in the safety evaluation process.
Such testing includes:
o Dermal sensitization tests conducted on reconstructed
human epidermis to determine skin response
o Ocular irritation tests conducted on corneal models to
evaluate irritancy.
Pre-clinical studies occur prior to clinical studies so that panelists’
safety is assured. IRB review, when mandated, should also occur
after pre-clinical studies data is evaluated and before clinical
testing begins.

Phase II: Clinical Study Data Collection and Evaluation

o Panelists are recruited and scheduled according to the
initial study design and timeline.
o Clinical data can vary in type, complexity, and collection
intervals.
o Because clinical data collection timelines may extend over
months, the planning and execution of the clinical studies
should begin as early as possible to meet the desired
market release date.
o Depending on the overall study objectives, some data
collection approaches may include panelist surveys
and/or precise measurements made by specialized
scientific equipment or assays intended for particular hair
care product performance tests, such as.

a) Trichological (Hair Count) Analysis

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SKIN CARE PRODUCTS o Vessels carry more blood to surface so heat can
Part 1 escape
SKIN  If too cold
o Skin is the outer covering of the body and is the largest o Dermal blood vessels constrict
organ of the integumentary system. o Prevents heat from escaping

STRUCTURE OF THE SKIN

 A vertical section of the skin reveals three distinct layers,
namely the outermost epidermis, the dermis and finally
the hypodermis or subcutaneous layer.

Biology of the Skin:

 In an average adult, skin covers a surface area in excess of
2 m2. With the exception of the skeletal muscles, the skin
is the heaviest organ of the body. The skin varies in
thickness between the palms and soles of the feet, where
it is very thick, to the fine delicate skin on the face.
 There are two types of skin, glabrous and hairy
o Glabrous skin, found on the palms and soles of
the feet, lacks hair follicles and sebaceous glands
but has a very thick epidermis and encapsulated
sense organs in the dermis.
o In hairy skin, hair follicles and sebaceous glands
are both present, but there are no encapsulated
EPIDERMIS
sensory organs. Facial skin has large sebaceous
o The epidermis is an avascular structure, made up of many
glands associated with fine vellus hairs,
contrasting sharply with the scalp, which layers of cells.
contains large hair follicles. o The special structure of the epidermis is classified as
stratified squamous epithelium and is typical of
vertebrate animals.
o It is responsible for producing the main barrier known as
the horny layer or stratum corneum, which forms the
outermost part of the epidermis.
o The horny layer is made up of waterresistant dead cells,
called corneocytes, which are segmented together with a
complex lipid material.
o The lower living layers of the epidermis can also be
subdivided as follows:
1. the germinative or basal layer;
2. the stratum spinosum or prickle cell layer;
3. the stratum granulosum or granular layer, which is
characterized by the presence of distinctive keratohyalin
granules.
FUNCTIONS OF THE SKIN:
1. Protection Keratinization
 First line of defense against: o The dynamic process of epidermal renewal is known as
o Bacteria keratinization. It begins in the basal layer where the cells,
o Viruses known as keratinocytes, multiply by mitotic cell division
 Protects underlying structures from and are continually pushed upwards whilst producing the
o Ultraviolet (UV) radiation protein, keratin. By the time these keratinocytes reach the
o Dehydration outer layer they are dead, water_x0002_resistant flakes
2. Vitamin D production which are segmented together with a complex lipid
 Needed for calcium absorption material. Due to wear and tear, these cells in the horny
3. Sensation layer are lost to the environment in a process called
 Sensory receptors desquamation.
4. Excretion
 Small amounts of waste products are lost through DERMIS
perspiration o The dermis functions as a supporting frame to the
5. Body temperature regulation epidermis, supplying it with nutrients via the blood
 If too hot capillaries. It also supports the sensory nervous system,
o Dermal blood vessels dilate secretory glands and hair follicles.
PCOS 311 LEC
o Unlike the epidermis, which is a cellular structure, the Using a cleanser designated for the facial skin to remove dirt is
underlying dermis consists of connective tissue. considered to be a better alternative to bar soap or another form of
skin cleanser not specifically formulated for the face for the
Compositions of Dermis: following reasons:
1. Collagen and elastin  Bar soap has an alkaline pH (in the area of 9 to 10), and
o Collagen forms the major constituent of the fibrous the skin's surface pH is on average 4.7. This means that
protein which gives the skin its tensile strength. soap can change the balance present in the skin to favor
o These collagen fibres make up 30% of the wet weight of the overgrowth of some types of bacteria, increasing acne.
the dermis and are arranged largely as interwoven In order to maintain a healthy pH balance and skin health,
strands or bundles that lie in a plane which is parallel to your skin must sit on the proper pH level.
the skin's surface.  Bar cleansers have thickeners that allow them to assume a
o The second type of protein fibre is called elastin; this bar shape. These thickeners can clog pores, leading to
makes up a smaller percentage and tends to be acne.
interwoven among the collagen bundles. These elastic  Using bar soap on the face can remove natural oils from
fibres allow the skin to deform and return to its original the skin that form a barrier against water loss. This causes
state once the pressure or tension is removed. the sebaceous glands to subsequently overproduce oil, a
condition known as reactive seborrhoea, which will lead
2. Ground substance to clogged pores. In order to prevent drying out the skin,
o The dermal ground substance consists of salt, water and many cleansers incorporate moisturizers.
glycosaminoglycans. The latter form complexes with FACE CLEANSERS:
protein molecules known as proteoglycans. a) Cream cleansers
o The best-known examples of 'glycosaminoglycans' are b) Foam cleansers
hyaluronic acid and chondroitin sulfate. c) Oil cleansers
o Hyaluronic acid is known to play a vital role in the d) Clay cleansers
e) Micellar cleansers
hydration of tissues since it carries with it a large volume
f) Powder cleansers
of water.
g) Bar cleansers
h) Cleansing mitts / clothes / wipes
3. Mast cells
i) Charcoal cleanser
o The mast cells, which are the second major cell type in the
j) Honey Cleanser
dermis, can be found close to the small blood vessels.
k) Vitamin C Cleanser
o They are responsible for synthesis and secretion of (a)
heparin, which is an anticoagulant, and (b) and (c) 2. Exfoliator
histamine and prostaglandins, both of which have  Exfoliating is the process of removing dead skin cells from
vasoactive properties. the surface of your skin using a chemical, granular
substance, or exfoliation tool.
4. Sweat glands  Your skin naturally sheds dead skin cells to make room
5. Sensory skin receptors for new cells every 30 days or so. But sometimes, dead
cells don’t shed completely. This can result in dry, flaky
HYPODERMIS patches and clogged pores. Exfoliating can help prevent
o Below the epidermis is a layer of fatty or adipose tissue this.
called the hypodermis. How does exfoliation benefit your skin?
o The cells in this layer synthesize and store fat as an o Exfoliating can improve the appearance of your skin in
energy reserve. This is to help insulate the body from low several ways.
external temperatures and to act as a buffer against o Exfoliation can leave your skin looking brighter and
trauma. improve the effectiveness of topical skin care products by
o On a more familiar note, the hypodermis provides the enhancing absorption.
body with its contours, whether they are attractive curves o Regular exfoliation can also help prevent clogged pores,
or unwelcome bulges. resulting in fewer breakouts.
o Long-term exfoliating can increase collagen production.
SKIN TYPES
Collagen is key to glowing, vibrant skin. The protein also
1. Normal- soft smooth skin with a healthy appearance
promotes skin elasticity, minimizing the appearance of
2. Oily- shiny with enlarged pores. Often blemished
fine lines and related sagging.
3. Dry- fine texture, flaky, many expression lines, poor
Types of Exfoliations
elasticity
Mechanical
4. Sensitive- florid with broken capillaries, fine textured,
o This process involves physically scrubbing the skin with
like dry skin
an abrasive.
5. Blemished- excessively oily with blemishes
o Mechanical exfoliants include microfiber cloths, adhesive
TYPES OF SKIN CARE PRODUCTS exfoliation sheets, micro-bead facial scrubs, crepe paper,
1. Cleansers crushed apricot kernel or almond shells, sugar or salt
 is a facial care product that is used to remove make-up, crystals, pumice, and abrasive materials such as sponges,
dead skin cells, oil, dirt, and other types of pollutants from loofahs, and brushes.
the skin of the face. This helps to unclog pores and o People with dry skin should avoid exfoliants which
prevent skin conditions such as acne. include a significant portion of pumice, or crushed
 A cleanser is the first step in a skin care regimen and can volcanic rock.
be used in addition of a toner and moisturizer, following
cleansing.
PCOS 311 LEC
Chemical 7. Toner
o Chemical exfoliants include scrubs containing salicylic  it shrinks pores and restores skin to its natural pH
acid, glycolic acid, fruit enzymes, citric acid, or malic acid balance.
which may be applied in high concentrations by a medical  this is important because when our pH levels are thrown
professional, or in lower concentrations in over-the- out of whack due to soaps and chemicals in cleansers, oil
counter products. production increases, causing a cycle of breakouts.
o Chemical exfoliation may involve the use of products that  can be used after a cleanser twice a day to remove excess
contain alpha hydroxy acids (AHAs), beta hydroxy acids traces of makeup or other residue from the skin.
(BHAs), or enzymes that act to loosen the glue-like
substance that holds the cells together, allowing them to 8. Moisturizer
ease away.  A product that adds water, and often some emollients, to
the skin. A variety of types of moisturizers are available
3. Treatments (for various skin types), and are necessary for all skin
 are used to address specific skin concerns such as acne, types to prevent dehydration.
dark spots, hyperpigmentation, fine lines and  Replaces water lost from the skin
inflammation. Skin treatment products are all regulated o Dryness and flexibility cannot be corrected with
and have to be approved by the FDA. They can be in the oils - Only Water
forms of creams, gels, lotions, solutions, serums and o Oil is used to limit the evaporation of water.
medicated facial pads. Ingredients of Moisturizers:
 The most common active ingredients in treatments are a) Humectant- An ingredient in skin or hair products that
retinoids like tretinoin and adapalene to address fine lines draws moisture from the air to moisturize the skin and
and wrinkles, topical steroids for skin allergies and also promotes the retention of moisture in the skin
inflammation and salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide to Examples:
treat acne. Vitamin C and growth factors are also found in o Glycerin
anti-aging treatment formulas. o Propylene glycol
o Sorbitol
4. Serums o Urea
 Serums usually contain antioxidants, which help fight free o Lactic acid
radical damage. o Hyaluronic Acid
 They can also contain anti-aging ingredients such as
retinols and peptides, which stimulate collagen b) Emollient- Supple, waxlike, lubricating, thickening agents
production. that prevent water loss and have a softening and soothing
 Because they penetrate deep into the skin, these products effect on the skin.
are great for hydrating dry skin.  A skin conditioning agent which helps maintain the
 They are best used after your cleanser, and they can be smooth, soft pliable appearance of the skin.
used underneath moisturizer to treat the skin while  Usually, a grease or an oil that softens the skin and
sleeping. protects it from dryness.
Examples:
5. Sunscreen o Sunflower seed oil
 is a lotion, spray, gel, foam, stick or other topical product
o Allantoin
that absorbs or reflects some of the sun's ultraviolet (UV)
o Myristyl Myristate
radiation and thus helps protect against sunburn.
 Diligent use of sunscreen can also help to slow or o Olive oil
temporarily prevent the development of wrinkles, dark o Cocoa butter
spots and sagging skin. o Mineral oil
‘
Types of Sunscreen c) Occlusives- substances that hold strongly to the surface
a) Physical Sunscreen of the skin, preventing access to the air and increasing
 stay on the surface of the skin and mainly deflect the UV absorption of cosmetic treatments.
light.  Usually refers to an occlusive shield or film that is spread
Examples: onto the skin to slow or prevent moisture evaporation.
i. Zinc oxide - an opaque, full-spectrum sunscreen also used Examples:
to give opacity to face powder and foundation. o Petrolatum
ii. Titanium dioxide - a full-spectrum, which means that it o Lanolin
protects the skin from both UVA and UVB rays. It is also o Candililla wax
used to give opacity to face powder, eye shadow, and o Dimethicone
foundation.
b) Chemical Sunscreen SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
 which absorb the UV light. Part 2
Example: UV organic filters SAFETY AND EVALUATION: SKIN CARE PRODUCTS
o One of the skin’s primary physiological functions is to act
6. Chemical Peel as the body’s first line of defense against exogenous
 remove the outer layer of the skin, which means they tend agents.
to go deeper to remove more excess dead skin cells than o However, the skin should not be viewed as a flawless
exfoliators. physicochemical barrier.
 They usually contain glycolic, salicylic or lactic acids. o Many low–molecular weight compounds are capable of
penetrating this barrier. When toxic agents (such as
PCOS 311 LEC
irritants or allergens in cosmetic products) permeate it,  Examples of photo allergens present in cosmetics are
the resulting adverse effects may cause considerable musk ambrette and 6- methyl coumarin, which are
discomfort to the consumer. present in fragrances.
o Even minor disturbances of the skin surface can produce
discomfort, especially in the facial area which has an 2. CONTACT URTICARIA SYNDROME
extensive network of sensory nerves.  It represents a heterogeneous group of inflammatory
reactions that appear, usually within a few minutes to an
TYPES OF COSMETICS ALLERGIC REACTION hour, after contact with the eliciting substance.
 Clinically, erythematous wheal-and-flare reactions are
1. CONTACT DERMATITIS seen, and sensations of burning, stinging, or itching are
 This is a nonspecific term used to describe any experienced.
inflammatory skin disease resulting from contact with an  Diagnosis may be achieved by a variety of skin tests—the
irritant or allergenic substance. open test is the simplest of these and is the ‘‘first-line’’
 Whatever the causative agent, the clinical features are test.
similar: itching, redness, and skin lesions. Types of Contact Urticaria Syndrome:
Types of Contact Dermatitis: i. Nonimmunological Contact Urticaria
A. IIRRITANT CONTACT DERMATITIS (IRRITATION) o It is the most common class of CUS. The reaction usually
o It is a term given to a complex group of localized remains localized.
inflammatory reactions that follow nonimmunological o Examples of cosmetic substances known to produce NICU
damage to the skin. are preservatives (e.g., benzoic acid and sorbic acid) and
o The inflammation may be the result of an acute toxic fragrances (e.g., cinnamic aldehyde)
(usually chemical) insult to the skin, or of repeated and
cumulative damage from weaker irritants (chemical or ii. Immunological Contact Urticaria
physical). o These are immediate (Type I) allergic reactions in people
o There is no definite laboratory test for ICD— diagnosis is who have previously been sensitized to the causative
by clinical morphology, of course, and appropriate agent.
negative patch-test results. o ICU is IgE mediated and is more common in atopic
Categories of Irritant Contact Dermatitis (ICD): individuals. Food substances are common causes of ICU.
Acute Irritant Contact Dermatitis
o Acute ICD is the result of a single overwhelming exposure 3. ACNEGENICITY
to a strong irritant or a series of brief physical or chemical  This refers to the capacity of some agents to cause acne or
contacts, leading to acute inflammation of the skin. aggravate existing acne lesions.
Cumulative Irritant Contact Dermatitis  This term may be subdivided to include comedogenicity
o Cumulative irritant contact dermatitis or chronic ICD and pustulogenicity.
develops as a result of a series of repeated and damaging Types of Acnegenicity:
insults to the skin. The insults may be chemical or i. Comedogenicity
physical. o This is the capability of an agent to cause hyperkeratinous
Delayed Acute Irritant Contact Dermatitis impactions in the sebaceous follicle, or the formation of
o Some chemicals produce acute irritation in a delayed microcomedones, usually in a relatively short period of
manner so that the signs and symptoms of acute irritant time.
dermatitis appear 12 to 24 hours or more after the ii. Pustulogenicity
original insult. o This refers to the capability of an agent to cause
inflammatory papules and pustules, usually in a relatively
B. ALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS short period of time.
 ACD occurs when a substance comes into contact with
skin that has undergone an acquired specific alteration in Factors Contributing to Contact Allergic Reactions to a
its reactivity as a result of prior exposure of the skin to the Cosmetic Product
substance eliciting the dermatitis ◉ Frequency of Use
 The skin response of ACD is delayed, immunologically ◉ Composition
mediated (Type IV), and consists of varying degrees of ◉ Concentration of Ingredients
erythema, edema, papules, and papulovesicles. ◉ Purity of Ingredients
 Patch testing is the gold standard. ◉ Common Use of Cosmetic Ingredients in Pharmaceuticals
◉ Cross-Sensitivity
C. PHOTOIRRITANT CONTACT DERMATITIS ◉ Penetration-Enhancing Substances
 It is a chemically induced nonimmunological skin ◉ Application Site
irritation requiring light. This reaction will occur in all ◉ Condition of the Skin
individuals exposed to the chemical– light combination. ◉ Contact Time
 Bergapten, a component of bergamot oil, is a potent
photoirritant that causes berloque dermatitis. Common Components that cause Cosmetic Allergic Reaction:
◉ Fragrance Ingredients
D. PHOTOALLERGIC CONTACT DERMATITIS ◉ Preservatives
 It is an immunological response to a substance that ◉ Antioxidants
requires the presence of light. ◉ ‘‘Active’’ or Category-Specific Ingredients
 The substance in the skin absorbs photons and is ◉ Excipients and Emulsifiers
converted to a stable or unstable photoproduct, which ◉ Coloring Agents
binds to skin proteins to form an antigen, which then
elicits a delayed hypersensitivity response.
PCOS 311 LEC
PRODUCT SAFETY TESTING
o International regulatory agencies require that skin care
products available on the market do not cause damage to
human health when applied under normal and reasonably
foreseeable conditions of use.
o Adequate information must be readily available to
demonstrate product safety and this information should
be keep on file with all other studies supporting
performance product claims.
o Such safety information could be based on the individual
toxicity of ingredients but testing the final product is
important and pertinent particularly in the following
cases:
 A new ingredient known to cause slight eye or skin
irritation is present
 Significant modifications of the formulation have been
made;
 The vehicle used in the formulation results in significantly
greater skin penetration
 Interaction between ingredients is likely to result in the
formation of a new, potentially toxic or irritant substance
 There is a specific safety claim

TYPES OF SAFETY ASSESSMENT

1. PATCH TEST
 a test for determining allergic sensitivity that is made by
applying to the unbroken skin small pads soaked with the
allergen to be tested
 The 48-hour patch test allows the assessment of the
primary irritation potential of a topical product.
 The test is conducted on a panel of at least 25 subjects.
The patches used can be occlusive or semi-occlusive
depending on the nature of the product.

2. Human Repeat Insult Patch Test (HRIPT)

 a test for determining the irritation and/or sensitization
potential of a test material(s), in support of sensitive skin
claims, after repeated application under occlusive or
semi-occlusive patches to the skin of human subjects.
 The HRIPT consists of 2 phases, and sometimes 3.

3. NON-COMEDOGENIC TEST
 a test to evaluate the skin condition before and after one
month of product usage. The evaluator counts the number
of comedons and blackheads on the forehead, cheeks and
chin.
 Alternatively, a non-comedogenic claim can be assessed
via a microscopic examination of the skin after application
of patches containing the product.

4. NON-ACNEGENIC TEST
 a test to evaluate skin condition before and after one
month of product usage. The evaluator counts the number
of acne lesions (papules and pustules) on the forehead,
cheeks and chin.

5. PERIOCULAR TOLERANCE TEST

 a test that allows to assess the irritation potential of a
topical product applied on the eye contour area.
 The study is conducted under the supervision of an
ophthalmologist. The condition of the eye and around the
eye area is examined before and after a given period of
product usage.
PCOS 311 LEC
ORAL HYGIENE PRODUCTS o Suspending agents – add thickness to the
 Oral hygiene is the practice of keeping the mouth and formulation. Ex. Methylcellulose, tragacanth,
teeth clean to prevent dental problems, most commonly, karaya gum.
dental cavities, gingivitis, periodontal (gum) diseases and o Flavoring agents – sorbitol or saccharin
bad breath. o Pyrophosphates – for tartar-control; retard the
Purpose of oral hygiene: formation of tartar. However, they form an
 The purpose of oral hygiene is to prevent the build-up of alkaline solution that can irritate skin and which
plaque, the sticky substance formed by the attachment of is most often exhibit by rash around the mouth.
bacteria coating that adheres to the pellicle, which is a o Fluoride – anticariogenic; replaces the hydroxyl
thin acellular, glycoprotein. ion in hydroxyapatite with the fluoride ion,
 Plaque, when not removed within 24 hours, forms a forming fluorapatite on the surface of the
substance called calculus or tartar. Plaque calcifies when enamel and hardens it, leading to a more acid-
calcium salt precipitates from the saliva. resistant enamel.
 Plaque adheres to the crevices and fissures of the teeth o Triclosan – antimicrobial agent which helps
and generates acids that, when not removed on a regular prevent gingivitis, plaque, cavities, and tartar
basis, slowly eat away, or decay, the protective enamel o Desensitizing agents – reduce pain in sensitive
surface of the teeth, causing holes (cavities) to form. teeth. Ex. 5% potassium nitrate
ANTICARIES AGENTS MOUTHWASHES/ORAL RINSES
 The formation of caries (tooth decay) is attributed to the  Rinse two times a day with a capful. Rinse for 1 minute
action of acids obtained from oral bacterial metabolism of and spit. If used in conjunction with the toothpaste use
dietary carbohydrates. The build-up of plaque on the the rinse first, then brush.
tooth surface usually aids the decay process by forming  May contain astringents, demulcents, detergents, flavors,
pockets or crevices on the teeth surface. germicides, and fluoride.
 Brushing removes material from tooth before it hardens o Cosmetic mouthwashes – to freshen breath;
into calculus.
nontherapeutic and no antiseptic property.
Classified based on ingredients, alcohol content,
APPROACH TO CARIES PREVENTION:
and appearance.
 Flossing
o Antiplaque mouth rinses – claim to prevent
 Brushing
formation of tartar, having the same ingredients
as tartar-control toothpaste. Ex. Cetylpyridium
**accompanied by fluoride administration either given internally or
chloride, chlorhexidine (staining is associated
topically to the teeth
with the overuse of these two ingredients)
Oral Hygiene Product
COSMETIC WHITENING PRODUCT
Dentrifices- Products that enhance the removal of stains and plaque
 CARBAMIDE PEROXIDE 10%
by the toothbrush.
 It is a tooth whitener, carbamide peroxide, a mild anti-
septic, also called urea hydrogen peroxide, perhydrit,
1. Toothpastes
hyperol, or perhydol, is an addition complex of hydrogen
2. Mouthwashes
peroxide with urea, which has a mild effect
3. Cosmetic whitening products
 Reacts with water in saliva, carbamide peroxide
4. Mouth/Breath Spray
dissociates to hydrogen peroxide (34%) & urea.
5. Fluoride gel
 Haywood and Heymann introduced bleaching of teeth with
10% carbamide peroxide gels placed in custom-built trays
TOOTHPASTES
to be worn by patients at night for 2-6 weeks.
 Used to decrease the incidence of dental caries, reduce
 HYDROGEN PEROXIDE- Active ingredient in some
mouth odors, and enhance personal appearance.
cosmetic whiteners in gel or liquid form.
 Brush with soft toothbrush for 2 minutes. No RINSING,
Possible risk in using cosmetic whitening products:
EATING, or DRINKING for 20 minutes.
 Alteration of normal flora
 Most common ingredients:
 Tissue damage
o Abrasives – responsible in removing plaque. Ex.
 Tooth sensitivity
Silicates, sodium bicarbonate, dicalcium
 Gingivitis
phosphate, sodium metaphosphate, calcium
 Potentiation of carcinogenic effects of other agents
pyrophosphate, calcium carbonate, magnesium
carbonate, and aluminum oxides. High-abrasive
FLUORIDE GEL
formulations are not advisable for long-term use
 Prescribed high-concentrated topical agent (1-2%)
as it may lead to eventual exposure to root
intended either for professional applications in
surfaces
plastic/disposal trays 2- 4 times per year or self-applied
o Surfactants – foaming agents that aid in the
with aid of a toothbrush once or twice per week.
removal of debris. Most frequently used are  The formulations are based on sodium fluoride,
sodium lauryl sulfate and sodium dodecyl acidulated phosphate fluoride or amine fluoride. The gels
benzene sulfonate. are flavored but contain no abrasive cleaning agents or
o Humectant – prevents the drying of the preservatives.
preparation. Ex. Sorbitol, glycerin, and
propylene glycol.
PCOS 311 LEC
FLUORIDE’S ACTION IN INHIBITING CARIES FLUORIDE TOXICITY
a) Fluoride decreases the solubility of enamel in acid  ACUTE SYSTEMIC TOXICITY
b) Fluoride has enzyme inhibitory properties

 Oral route places fluoride into systemic circulation

allowing fluoride to laid down in unerupted teeth as they
are formed.
 The most convenient dosage form is “fluoridation of the
public water supply”.
 Done by adding sodium fluoride or a fluorosilicate, with
concentration of 0.7 to 1 ppm.
 Equivalent to 2.2 mg of NaF based on a person’s water
intake of six 6- oz glasses of water.

SPECIFIC INGREDIENTS
SODIUM FLOURIDE USP:
 Maximum Permitted Concentration of Fluoride in
Properties:
toothpaste for
 Occurs as a white, odorless powder which is soluble in
o OTC sales – 0.15%
water and insoluble in alcohol
o Pharmacies – 1.3%
Uses:
 Officially used as dental prophylactic  The Probable Toxic Dose (PTD) of fluoride, 5 mg F/kg of
 2% aqueous sol’n is widely used topically. Usual body weight.
procedure is a series of 4 treatments: beginning at the age
of 3; ages 7, 11 and 13 as the permanent teeth erupts SAFETY PRECAUTIONS:
 Package size & especially, fluoride contents be controlled.
STANNOUS FLOURIDE USP  Supervised toothpaste use by preschool children
Synonym: Tin Diflouride  Manufacturers should be encouraged to include this
Properties: advice in labels.
 Stannous fluoride occurs as a white crystalline powder
and has a bitter salty taste. It melts at about 213 degrees  CHRONIC TOXICITY
Celsius;
 Freely soluble in water; insoluble in alcohol, ether and
chloroform
Uses:
 extensively used for topical fluoride application
o A simple application of a freshly prepared 8%
solution at 6 to 12 months intervals is used
 it requires only 1 application per treatment as compared
to a series of 4 application per treatment of NaF
o solution is applied to a cleaned, dry teeth.

PUMICE USP
Synonym: Pumice Stone; Piedra Pomez
Properties:
 substance of volcanic origin; consisting chiefly of complex
silicates of aluminum, potassium and sodium
 occurs as very light, hard, rough, porous grayish masses,
or as a gritty gray powder
 Pumice is odorless and tasteless; stable in air; practically
insoluble in water and is not attacked by acids.
Uses: Dental Abrasive
GRADES OF FINENESS:
1. Pumice flour or superfine
2. Fine Pumice
3. Coarse pumice

SAFETY EVALUATION OF ORAL HYGIENE PRODUCTS  LOCAL TOXICITY

1. MECHANICAL ABRASION
DENTAL FLUOROSIS ABRASIVES: Essential component of toothpastes mechanical
 “mottled enamel” removal of stained tooth pellicle.
 too much fluoride present in the tissue fluids • teeth is  Requirements of in vitro study
chalky and soft  Use a relevant substrate (natural teeth, dentine)
 occurs in areas where the fluoride concentration of  Knowledge of the abrasive compound + Abrasive particle
drinking water exceeds 2 ppm size & other constituents of the toothpaste.
 only occurs during excessive ingestion of fluoride during  The method of brushing (e.g. horizontal brushing)
the period of teeth development  The abrasivity of all commercially available toothpastes is
LETHAL ADULT DOSE OF FLUORIDE: 2 - 5 g generally low to no clinical significance.
PCOS 311 LEC
2. SOFT TISSUE REACTION
Acute Reactions of The Oral Soft Tissues To Oral Hygiene Products:
 Epithelial Peeling
 Mucosal Ulceration & Inflammation
 Gingivitis
 Petechiae
Patients may complain of:
 A Burning or Stinging Sensation
 Soreness or Pain
 Staining of the Teeth and Tongue

LOCAL REACTIONS TO ANTIMICROBIAL AGENTS

Chlorhexidine Mouthwash
 Brown discoloration of the teeth and tongue and with
altered taste sensation
 Superficial desquamation of the oral mucosa.
Benzethonium chloride (0.2%)
 Caused desquamative lesions of the oral mucosa in 4 out
of 5 subjects
 Discoloration of the tongue and around some of the teeth
in 8 out of 12 subjects
Cetylpyridinium chloride – rinse  burning sensation