მომლოცველები Eng

Download as pdf or txt
Download as pdf or txt
You are on page 1of 96

GEORGIAN NATIONAL TOURISM ADMINISTRATION

ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO

GEORGIA
CONTENTS
Introduction Imereti
5 54

Religious Celebrations Guria


8 61

Tbilisi Samegrelo
13 64

Mtskheta Svaneti
18 71

Shida Kartli Racha-Lechkhumi


25 76

Kvemo Kartli Adjara


30 81

Mtskheta-Mtianeti Abkhazia
35 86

Samtskhe-Javakheti St. Nino’s Rout


40 92

Kakheti St. Apostle Andrew’s Rout


47 93
St. George. Svaneti school
13th cc., wood, tempera, 80x58 cm.
GNM, Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

INTRODUCTION
Located between the Black Sea and the Caucasus, Georgia has been inhabited since ancient
times. Moreover, the 1 800 000 year-old human bones excavated in Dmanisi, southern Geor-
gia, have confirmed that it had also been a cradle of the first Europeans. A variety of political
unions had existed on this land well before the kingdoms of Colchis (western Georgia) and
Iberia (eastern Georgia) emerged in the 1st millennium BC, both of which are known to us
thanks to Greek and Roman writers. Georgians have been cultivating land since ancient times
and are said to be the first growers of wheat and vine. They also extracted and worked copper,
gold and iron.

Rich in forests and water and containing sub-tropical coastal lowlands, glaciers and alpine
meadows, this country of modest size has always attracted powerful neighbours. Assyria,
Achemenian and Sassanian Persia, Greek colonists, Hellenistic monarchies and the Roman
Empire have many times attempted to subdue it. On the other hand, due to the closeness to
these powers, Georgia would familiarise itself with the achievements of the oriental and oc-
cidental cultures, and accomplishments of the ancient east or Hellas. This explains the early
spread of Christianity in the country. According to ecclesiastical tradition, in the 1st century
the Jews from Mtskheta brought the Tunic of Christ from Jerusalem, one of the most sacred
relics of Christianity to Georgia, which became a lot of the Holy Virgin. St Mary sent St Andrew
the Apostle, St Simon the Canaanite and St Matthias to Georgia to preach the Christian faith,
while in the early 4th century, following the teachings of St Nino of Cappadocia Christianity
was proclaimed an official religion in eastern Georgia. In 325, the First Council of Nicea was
attended by a bishop of Pitiunt, a city in western Georgia. Since then the Christianity became
inseparable part of national identity for the Georgian people.

In this period the Christian culture starts to develop and in the 6th -7th centuries reaches very
high level, especially in architecture.

In the 5th century, King Vakhtang Gorgasali succeeded in uniting almost all Georgian lands
and laying a foundation for the autocephaly of the Georgian Church. But the unity of the state
did not last long. In the 6th century the Persians abolished the royal throne in Kartli (eastern
Georgia) and shortly after Byzantines put an end to Egrisi kingdom (western Georgia), though
they failed to eradicate the local system of state administration. Neither did the Arabs, who

www.georgia.travel 5
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

took hold of Kartli in the mid-7th century and appointed their amira (ruler) in the 8th century
in Tbilisi, capital of Kartli, managed to accomplish that goal. The end of the 8th century was
marked by the formation of the kingdom of Kakheti in the east, Tao-Klarjeti in the south and
the so-called Abkhaz kingdom with the capital being Kutaisi in the west. Each of the units
strived to extend control over the entire country. In the beginning of the 11th century, Bagrat
III (975-1014), who was a descendant of the south Georgian Bagrationis from the paternal line
and an heir of Abkhaz kings from the maternal side, became king of almost all Georgia. This
period is marked with development and flourishing of all branches of art, creating master-
pieces of the world culture.

The presence of the Arabs in Tbilisi, the intrusion of the Byzantines and later of the Seljuks
impeded the process of building an integral state. Only Bagrat’s great grandson Davit IV Agh-
mashenebeli (David the Builder, 1089-1125) succeeded in becoming the king of all Georgia
which had already, in the 9th century, gained ecclesiastical independence. The reign of King
Davit Aghmashenebeli and of his granddaughter, Queen Tamar (1184-1213), is described as
Golden Era in the history of Georgia. At the same time, Georgian ecclesiastical literature, repre-
sented by numerous brilliant hagiographs, hymnographs and translators beginning from the
5th century, was complimented by secular works, the masterpiece of which is The Knight in
the Panther’s Skin by Shota Rustaveli. The quality of education advanced simultaneously. All
branches of art continue to flourish, especially painting and repousse art.

In the 1220s Georgia had to suffer again. The Kwarazm invasion of 1225, a century-long rule
of the Mongols beginning from 1235, and especially numerous inroads by Tamerlane in the
late 14th and beginning of the 15th centuries inflicted serious damages on the country. As
a consequence, by the end of the 15th century Georgia had again disintegrated into three
kingdoms (Kartli and Kakheti in the east and Imereti in the west) and several principalities
(Samtskhe-Saatabago in the south, Guria, Samegrelo, Abkhazeti and Svaneti in the west). The
country then plunged into incessant internal wars and became an object of rivalry between
powerful eastern empires, Safavid Persia and Ottoman Turkey. After collapse of Byzantium,
Georgia surrounded by powerful and hostile Muslim states never gave up Christianity and
faithfully follows it up to now.

Apart from invasions and defeats, this period was also marked by successful kingship of King
Giorgi V the Magnificant (1318- 1346) and Alexander I the Great (1412-1442). In the 16th
century Kakheti and Imereti, and in the 17th century Kartli made significant progress both
economically and politically. Ecclesiastical and secular literature, architecture and almost all
branches of art continued to be created and even began to flourish since the 16th century.
In the 18th century King Vakhtang VI of Kartli (1703-1724) and Catholicos-Patriarch Anton I

6 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

(1744-55; 1764-1788) did not spare an effort to establish and develop scholarship and educa-
tion of European fashion.

The unification of Kartli and Kakheti (eastern Georgia) under King Erekle II (1744-1798) and the
strengthening of Imereti (western Georgia) under Solomon I (1752-1784) in the second half
of the 18th century, as well as the signing of an agreement by Georgian kings and governors
pledging to unite their efforts created prospects for the restoration of the territorial integrity
of Georgia. But Georgian secular and ecclesiastical figures of the time believed that the feeble
country with reduced population would not be able to survive alone and therefore sought a
reliable ally. After the failure to gain support from the west, beginning from the 16th century
they would apply to Russia, as a country affirming Orthodox faith, for help. At the end of the
18th century, international documents were drawn up on accepting Russia’s protectorship.

Regrettably, the shared Orthodox faith did not appear to provide sufficient ground for fair
cooperation. In 1801, Russian authorities began abolishing Georgian political units and soon
incorporated them into their empire. By violating the ecclesiastical law, they also abolished
the autocephaly of the Georgian Church. For the first time after millennia, the Georgians did
not have their own, even nominal, statehood.

This is how the history of old Georgia came to an end and a long struggle for the liberation
from the Russian Monarchy and later, after the abolition of Georgia’s four-year independence
in 1921, from the Soviet Union, started. It was not until the decline and the final demise of the
USSR in 1991 that Georgia managed to proclaim the restoration of its independence.

Due to the activities of the Catholicos Patriarche of All Georgia His Holiness and Beatitude
Ilia II the Christianity has been revived in Georgia; building of churches and monasteries and
development of Christian culture started again.

www.georgia.travel 7
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

RELIGIOUS
CELEBRATIONS
Twelve holy days/Movable

Holy Easter

Palm Sunday – Glorious Enter to Jerusalem, on the sixth Sunday of Lent

Ascension Day, 40th day after Easter

Holy Trinity Day, Pentecost, 50th day after Easter

Immovable
(Gr./Jul. Calendar)

The Nativity/Christmas
(25 December/7 January)

Epiphany
(6/19 January)

Presentation of Christ at the Temple


(2/15 February)

Annunciation
(25 March/ 7 April)

Transfiguration
(6/19 August)

Dormition of the Blessed Virgin


(15/28 August)

Nativity of the Blessed Virgin


(8/21 September)

Exaltation of the Cross


(14/27 September)

Presentation of the Blessed Virgin


(21 November/4 December)

8 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

RELIGIOUS
CELEBRATIONS
Candlemas Day
(1/14 January)

St. Martyr Abo Tbileli


(8/21 January)

Equal to the Apostles St. Nino


(14/27 January)

St. Anton Martkopeli


(19 January/1 February)

St. King David the Builder


(26 January/8 February)

Feast day of the icon of Our Lady of Iveron


(12/25 February)

Blessed Pious Queen Tamar’s Day


(1/14 May)

St. George
(6/23 May)

St. Andrew the First-called


(29 April/12 May)

St. Ioane Zedazneli and his 12 disciples


(7/20 May)

St. John the Theologian


(8/21 May)

Nativity of St. John the Baptist


(24 June/7 July)

St. Apostle Peter and St. Apostle Paul


(29 June/12 July)

Feast day of the Robe of the Virgin


(2/15 July)

www.georgia.travel 9
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Prophet Elyah, Righteous Ilia


(2 August/20 July)

Beheading of St. John the Baptist


(29 August/11 September)

Anchiskhatoba, St. Anton Martkopeli


(16/29 August)

St. Martyr Queen Ketevan


(13/26 September)

Alaverdoba
(15/28 September)

Mtskhetoba-Svetitskhovloba
(1/14 October)

St. Martyrs David and Constantine


(2/15 October)

St. Grigol Khandzteli


(5/18 October)

Reverend Father Gabriel (Urgebadze)


(2 November/20 October)

100000 Georgian Martyrs


(13 November/31 October)

Synaxis of the Archangels


(8/21 November)

St. George
(10/23 November)

St. Andrew the First-called, St. King Vakhtang Gorgasali


(13 December)

St. Barbara
(4/17 December)

St. Nicholas
(6/19 December)

All Martyred Reverend Fathers and Mothers in Georgia


(11/24 December)

10 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Movable

Blessed Father Shio Mgvimeli


Shrovetide Thursday

Lazarus Saturday
Saturday before Palm Sunday

6000 Martyrs of Gareja


First Tuesday after Easter

Thomas Sunday
Sunday of the Bright Week

St. David Garejeli


Thursday after Ascension

Feast day of the Holy Cross of Mtskheta; Lomisoba


Wednesday after Pentecost

All Saints
Sunday after Pentecost

Church Tribute Days

Revival of Autocephaly of Georgian Orthodox Church (1917)


(12/25 March)

Enthronization Day of Catholicos Patriarch of All Georgia Ilia II (1977)


(12/25 December)

Angel’s Day of His Holiness and Beatitude Catholicos Patriarch Ilia II


(20 July/2 August)

BEHAVIOUR CODE WHEN VISITING CHURCHES AND


MONASTERIES IN GEORGIA
Almost every tourist rout in Georgia envis- monasteries, do not put on short trousers
ages visit to churches and monasteries. Vis- and short dresses, neither open T-shirts.
itors of these places should follow several Ladies should, desirably, wear dresses and
simple rules. It is necessary to keep quiet in not trousers; however, at the churches
the church, all the more if the service is be- proper skirts that can easily be put on are
ing held. Entrance to the chancel is prohib- available for the visitors. Ladies should en-
ited. Turn off the ringing tone of your cell ter the church with the headgear on and
phones and do not speak on them, when the gentlemen should take off their hats.
in the church. When vising churches and

www.georgia.travel 11
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

TBILISI
Attested by archaeological excavations, the territory of Tbilisi had been inhabited as early as
the 4th millennium B.C. The most ancient source, in which it is mentioned, belongs to the
second half of the 4th century, when a fortress was erected at this location in the reign of King
Varaz-Bakuri. At the end of the 4th century, Tbilisi became the residence of the Persian official
– the bitakhsh. From mid 5th century, it was again under the control of Kartlian kings. St. King
Vakhtang Gorgasali has been considered as the city founder, since he restored and developed
it. As the legend relates, the king had sent a falcon after a pheasant, with the birds plunging
into a hot spring and being scalded to death. The king apparently chopped down the forest
and built the town due to the healing properties of the hot water and the advantageous loca-
tion of the area. The town was called “Tbilisi” - “Tbili” (“Tpili” in Old Georgian) because of the
mineral springs. Sulfur bath houses were constructed at this location later on. The place is a
historic district of Tbilisi – The Bath District (Abanotubani). Throughout the centuries, Tbilisi
has not been only a political, state center, but also a vibrant hub of literary, cultural activities.
The city has been historically known for its religious tolerance. A large portion of the city is
Christian, with the majority being Orthodox. The Armenian Apostolic Church has a significant
amount of followers. There are many Catholics, Luthe rans, Baptists, and other Christian de-
nominations. A part of the population is adherents of Islam and another part being Jewish.
Kurds also live in Tbilisi, with 61% of them being Yezidic. It is especially notable in Old Tbilisi
with its abundance of churches or places of prayer belonging to various confessions.

Among numerous monuments in Tbilisi outstanding architectural value is acquired to the old-
est church Anchiskhati, Sioni Cathedral, Metekhi church and among modern. Buildings – to
the Trinity Cathedral. Many sacred relics and works of Christian art are stored in the Sh. Amira-
nashvili museum of Fine arts.

www.georgia.travel 13
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Sioni Church
Anchiskhati

ANCHISKHATI SIONI CHURCH


The Anchiskhati Basilica is the most ancient According to tradition, the Sioni Cathedral
monument in Tbilisi and the first ecclesi- in Tbilisi had been built by King Vakhtang
astical structure that has survived. It had Gorgasali in the 5th century, with chroni-
originally been built in the 6th century, re- cles attesting to a big construction project
ceiving the name it has today in the 17th between the 6th-7th centuries. After many
century, when the miracle-working icon of times of being destroyed and rebuilt, Arch-
Christ (currently kept at the Georgian State bishop Elise (Saginashvili) of Tbilisi had the
Museum of Art) was transferred from Anchi current domed church built in the 17th cen-
Church. The original part of the Anchiskhati tury. In 1710, through the initiative of King
Basilica had been built with hewn stone, Vakhtang VI, it was faced with hewn stone
whereas sections of the walls rebuilt with and adorned with stone ornamentation
bricks, the inner columns, and the roofing and reliefs, although due to fresh damage in
belong to a restoration done by Catholi- 1795, a great portion of the wall facing was
cos Domenti III in the 17th century. He also restored in the 19th century. A Late Medi-
erected a two-storey, bell-tower made of eval bell-tower (the pavilion is from the 19th
bricks in 1675. 19th-century additions were century) stands in the churchyard, across the
removed from the church during the years street is yet one more bell-tower, erected by
1958-1964 under the guidance of Rusudan Russian authorities in 1811. A large portion
Gverdtsiteli, giving it the appearance seen of the church's interior has been painted
today. There are 17th century murals in the by the Russian painter Gregory Gagarin in
chancel and those of the 19th century on the the 1850's, with the western section how-
vault. ever, being adorned with the murals by Le-

14 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Trinity Patriarchal Cathedral


Metekhi Church

van Tsutskiridze in the 1980's. The vine cross God had resided here until 1795.
weaved by St. Nino and the skull of St. Thom-
as the Apostle are the most precious relics THE TRINITY PATRIARCHAL
out of those kept at the church, as well as the CATHEDRAL
graves of those who have been canonized as
saints: John Mangleli, and the Catholicoses The Holy Trinity Patriarchal Cathedral is lo-
Kyrion and Ambrose. cated in Tbilisi on Elia Hill in the Avlabari Dis-
trict. It was built during the years 1995-2004
METEKHI CHURCH to mark the 1500th anniversary of the auto-
cephaly of the Georgian Orthodox Church
The Church of the Mother of God at Metekhi, and the 2000th year since the Nativity of
or simply Metekhi, is located in the most an- Christ. The idea for erecting a new cathedral
cient, historical district of Isani, on the left was manifested in 1989 and in the month of
bank of the Mtkvari River, situated on a small May, a competition was announced for the
cliff. According to tradition, the relics of St. project, “Holy Trinity Cathedral”, by the Geor-
Shushanik the Martyr have been buried at gian Patriarch and the Tbilisi government.
Metekhi Church. The cliff at Metekhi is the As a result of two stages of discussions, the
place where the patron saint of Tbilisi, St. project by Architect Archil Mindiashvili was
Abo of Tbilisi was martyred (8th century). selected. The foundation for the church was
The current domed church, faced with hewn only laid on November 23, 1995. Church
stone, had been built by St. Demetre II the construction was primarily financed by pri-
Self-Sacrificer at the end of the 13th century, vate donations. The church was consecrated
being restored in the 16th and 18th centu- by His Holiness and Beatitude Patriarch-Ca-
ries. A miracle-working icon of the Mother of tholicos of all Georgia Ilia II on November 23,

www.georgia.travel 15
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

1 Cover of reliquary with the Crucifixion and


inscription of Giorgi, king of Abkhazia
10th c. Shemokmedi, Guria (West Georgia).
Gold, cloisonné enamel 8x7.5 cm.
GNM, Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts

2 Triptych of the Virgin


10th c., second quarter of the 12th c. Khakhuli,
Tao (present Turkey) Gold, gilded silver, precious
stones, pearls, cloisonné enamel. 148x202 cm
GNM, Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts

16 www.georgia.travel
Shalva Amiranashvili Art Museum ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

2004, the feast day of St. George. The main art, stone or wooden reliefs, mural painting
domed church, of a complex plan layout, is and embroidery. There are also works by
accompanied by a number of minor church- Georgian painters, sculptors, and masters of
es, a baptismal font, monastery buildings, the “minor arts”, as well as Russian, European,
public spaces, etc. Numerous sacred relics and Oriental works of art.
are housed in the church, among them the
“stone of Grace” brought from Jerusalem by
St. David Garejeli in the 6th century.

SHALVA AMIRANASHVILI
ART MUSEUM
One of the main units of the National Muse-
um of Georgia, it is the greatest state reposi-
tory and museum in Georgia for works of art.
It was founded on August 5, 1932, based on
the Georgian National Gallery that had been
created through the initiative of Dimitri She-
vardnadze in 1920. Works of art from the
most ancient times to the 20th century are
featured in the treasury, halls, and deposi-
tories of the museum: archaeological items,
Georgian repoussé and painted icons from
the Middle Ages, works of cloisonné, jewelry

www.georgia.travel 17
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

MTSKHETA
The ancient capital of Georgia is a place connected with the birth of the Georgian statehood.
The history of Christianity in Georgia begins in Mtskheta. For Georgians, the greatest Christian
holy relic – the Lord’s Robe – is buried at Mtskheta. For Georgians Mtskheta was an image of
Jerusalem, that is attested in the topography of the city.

The town of Mtskheta has been the administrative center (since 1956) of the Mtskheta-Mti-
aneti Province and of the Mtskheta District (since 1930). Mtskheta has been declared a city-
museum, being inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. The territory of Mtskheta and
“Great Mtskheta” was populated in the Early and Middle Bronze Ages (3,000-2,000 B.C.). It had
been densely populated (necropolis and settlement-sites at Samtavro, Zemo Avchala, Tsitsam-
uri, Narekvavi, Tserovani, Nabaghrevi) during the Late Bronze and Early Iron Ages (2,000-1,000
B.C.). Great changes characteristic of the life of the most ancient political entities in the Near
East have been reflected in the history of Mtskheta beginning from early first millennium B.C.
- A strong cultural stream had infiltrated into ancient Mtskheta, significantly conditioning city
life until the 3rd-4th centuries. Its social and professional differentiation is the development of
the ancient population centers and their unification into one, large city, Great Mtskheta, with
the population’s ethnographical variety being one of its unique characteristics. According to
legend, the city had been founded by the ethnarch Mtskhetos. It is supposed that the name
“Mtskheta” originates from the name of the Meskhi (Moskhi-Mushki) tribe. The residential area
for this tribe must have emerged after the 8th century B.C. on the territory of Mtskheta. Mt-
skheta was the newly formed political center of the Kingdom of Kartli (Iberia) since the end of
the 4th century B.C. and the capital remained here until the end of the 5th century A.D.

18 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Svetitskhoveli
www.georgia.travel 19
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Svetitskhoveli
SVETITSKHOVELI built here in the 5th century, whereas Cathol-
icos-Patriarch Melchisedek and the architect
The Patriarchal Cathedral of the Twelve Arsukisdze erected the domed church seen
Apostles at Mtskheta, “Svetitskhoveli”, the today during the years 1010-1029. Being the
most important monument of Georgian cul- largest ancient Georgian church constructed
ture, art, and architecture, is distinguished with hewn stone and adorned with stone
not only through its artistic value, magnifi- carved ornamentation and reliefs, it has
cence, and harmoniousness, but also by the been destroyed and restored many times
special role it fulfilled in the history of the (the work carried out by King Alexander I in
Georgian people. 1418-1440 and the restoration of the dome
in the second half of the 17th century are of
The first wooden church was built here by St. particular importance), although it retains its
King Mirian and St. Nino in the 4th century original glory even today. Fragments of the
in the spot, where according to Church tradi- 17th-century murals are preserved in the
tion, the Robe of Jesus Christ had been bur- church (it is possible that the painting in the
ied, having been brought to Mtskheta in the chancel is original, having been restored in
1st century by a local Jew, Eliozi (the mantle the 19th century), whereas Gregory Gulja-
of Elijah the Prophet had also been brought varashvili painted the canopy erected over
to the same spot by exiled Jews centuries the “Life-giving Pillar” during the years 1678-
earlier). A myrrh-streaming tree grew above 1688. Svetitskhoveli was the site of royal
it, from which one of the church's miracle- coronations and burials as well. The holy
working pillars - “Sveti Tskhoveli – The Life- martyrs Eustathius of Mtskheta (6th cent.)
giving Pillar” was wrought. St. King Vakhtang and Demetre II the Self-Sacrificer (13th cent.)
Gorgasali had a basilica of considerable size have also been laid to rest here.

20 www.georgia.travel
Samtavro Monastery ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Samtavro Monastery

SAMTAVRO tury, inside however, a 15th-century chan-


MONASTERY cel-barrier and fragments of 17th-century
murals have been preserved. A bell-tower
The monastery is situated at a slightly elevat- with the gate on the ground floor from the
ed location on the northern outskirts of Mt- 15th-16th centuries and an 18th-century
skheta. It was built where St. Nino had lived tower are in the churchyard, as well as mod-
for three years – a tiny, domed church from ern monastery buildings. The first Christian
the early medieval period now stands on the king and queen of Georgia, Sts. Mirian and
spot where blackberry bushes provided her Nana, and a 6th-century hieromartyr, St. Abi-
with shelter. The cathedral of archbishop of bos of Nekresi, have found their final resting
Kartli had been here since the 5th century place within the church. 20th century Saint
and the nuns' convent since 1820. The main – Father Gabriel is buried in the monastery.
church took the place of a yet earlier church The church houses 18th c. icon of St. Nino,
erected in the 4th century, the so-called numerous holy relics, and miracle-working
“Upper Church”. The current church primar- icon of the Virgin Portaitissa.
ily dates to the 11th century, but it contains
remnants of the 5th-century basilica and THE CHURCH
large segments of a construction from a sub- OF ANTIOCH
sequent period. It is considered to be a con-
struction marking a new stage, for it became Standing at the confluence of the Mtkvari
a model for the domed Georgian churches and Aragvi Rivers and faced with hewn
of the following centuries, with its stone stone, the 4th-century, single-nave church,
carvings being one of the masterpieces of with a western porch, contains important
medieval art. The dome is from the 14th cen- parts of early medieval construction – quite

www.georgia.travel 21
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Church of the Holy Cross at Mtskheta


The Church of Antioch

possibly the remains of the Church of St. Ste- ings of Georgian master craftsmen. Built of
phen, built in Mtskheta in 420-430. hewn stone and adorned with stone carved
ornamentation and figure reliefs, it is one of
THE CHURCH OF the rare examples of a perfect synthesis of
THE HOLY CROSS architecture with the environment. A relic
AT MTSKHETA of the Mtskheta Holy Cross is kept today at
Svetitskhoveli Cathedral.
The Church of the Holy Cross at Mtskheta is
located east of Mtskheta, at the confluence
of the Mtkvari and Aragvi Rivers, on top of
a rocky mountain. It has been inscribed on
the World Heritage List. King Mirian III and
St. Nino had a wooden cross erected here at
this spot, when accepting Christianity in the
330's, which was venerated by Christians all
throughout the Caucasus. The Kartlian ruler
Gvaram built a small hewn stone church be-
side the cross in the third quarter of the 6th
century, while his sons Stephanos, Adarnase,
and Demetre building a domed church over
it in 589-607. The latter represents a type
of central-domed composition well-known
only in the South Caucasus and a logical
culmination of the preceding artistic striv-

22 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

1 Censer (Syrian-Palestinian) 2 Prealtar Cross 3 Triptych of the Saviour


with the scenes from the New Mestia, beginning of 11th c., 6th, 12th, 14th, 17th, 18th, 19th cc.
Testament. 6th c. Ieli church of the gilt silver, 88x50 cm. Anchi, Klarjeti (present Turkey)
Saviour, Upper Svaneti GNM, Svaneti Museum of History and Encaustic on wood, gilded silver,
(West Georgia). Bronze. Rim Ethnography precious stones. 148x185 cm
7.5x5cm. GNM, Shalva Amiranashvili Museum
GNM, Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts
of Fine Arts

www.georgia.travel 23
“Fresco of Angel”
Kintsvisi, St. Nicholas Church
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

SHIDA KARTLI
A region in East Georgia, historically and territorially being the very heart of Georgia, with
the city of Gori being the administrative center. The climate of Shida Kartli is of moderate,
subtropical humidity, with the median annual temperature being around 10-12 ºC. In Janu-
ary the median temperature is 3º C and 20-22º C in July. The barometric pressure is around
500-700 mm. The regional climate is continental, with the median annual temperature fluc-
tuating around 12-13º C (in the lowlands), 9-10º C (in higher, outer regions), whereas 4º C at
higher altitudes (Java region). There are many monuments of nature, architecture, and culture
throughout the region.

Of particular importance from the architectural point of view are the churches of Kvatakhevi,
Atenis Sioni, Samtavisi, Ikorta; The murals of the Ateni and Kintsvisi churches are among the
masterpieces of the Christian art. Historically distinguished is Uplistsikhe site.

www.georgia.travel 25
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA
Gori Castle
Uplistsikhe

UPLISTSIKHE ing”, “Western Church”, “The Great Yard” and


the “Flat-roofed Houses”, “The Single-Pillar
Rock-cut city Uplistsikhe is one of the promi- Hall” and “The Hall with Caisson Ceilings”,
nent monuments of rock architecture in the “The Beautiful House”, “The High Throne
world, having been carved out in the first Room” Complex, “The Building at the Begin-
millennium B.C. Noteworthy remnants that ning of the Main Street”, “The Inaccessible
have survived are the so-called “Long Build- Building”, “The Plain Room”, “The Double-Pil-

26 www.georgia.travel
Ateni Sioni ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

strategical functions and the residence of


the military general.

ATENI SIONI
The central-domed church of Ateni Sioni was
built in the first half of the 7th century on a
cliff by the Tana River, at the site of an ancient
basilica, as an imitation of the Church of the
Holy Cross at Mtskheta. The outer walls are
adorned with many reliefs from the 7th-10th
centuries, inside however are murals from
the 11th century, one of the most important
works of the medieval Georgian wall-paint-
ing. 8th-11th-century inscriptions within the
church provide important historical facts.

lared Hall” and “The Quadruple-Pillared Hall” KINTSVISI


Complex, “The Prince's Church”, “The House MONASTERY
at the Edge of the Great Cliff”, “The Platform
at the Edge of the Street”, “The Hall With The monastery is located in the Kareli Dis-
Paired Rafters”, “The Red Room” Complex, trict about ten kilometers away from Kints-
the church, etc. In the 9th-11th centuries, visi Village in the Dzama River Valley. There
Uplistsikhe was a fortress fulfilling military, are two churches and a gate preserved here.

www.georgia.travel 27
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA
Kintsvisi Monastery

Ikorta

Only the chancel has survived from the older, IKORTA


10th-11th century single-nave Church of the
Mother of God, with remarkable murals dat- A domed church dedicated to the Holy Arch-
ing from the second half of the 13th century. angels stands in the Tskhinvali region, hav-
The main domed church of St. Nicholas built ing been erected in 1172 on the outskirts of
by Anthony Glonistavisdze, the Prime Minis- Ikorta Village. This typology was often used
ter and Chkondideli, in the beginning of the in the ecclesiastical architecture during the
13th century is more significant. The brick period from the 11th to the 18th century in
church is famous for its mural decoration. Georgia. Restored and repaired in the 14th
An angel heralding the Resurrection on the century, in 1672 and in 19th-20th centuries,
northern wall and a royal portrait (George it has still preserved its original appearance
III, King Tamar, and George IV Lasha) right and stone carved ornamentation of high
underneath it are especially well-known. artistic merits. The 12th-century murals in-
Kintsvisi murals are of crucial importance in side the church have also partially survived.
the history of Georgian monumental paint- The 17th-century holy martyrs – Shalva and
ing. The church is accompanied by annexes Elizbar, military governors from Ksani, and
constructed in the 13th-14th centuries and Bidzina Cholokashvili are buried within the
a separate chapel. Inside of the church is a church.
chancel-barrier painted in the 15th century
and in the narthex 16th-17th centuries mu- The church is currently on territory occupied
rals are also preserved. by Russia and it is impossible to see it.

28 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Kvatakhevi
Samtavisi

SAMTAVISI KVATAKHEVI
The Church of the Ascension at Samtavisi, The Monastery of the Dormition of the Moth-
a very prominent building of crucial signifi- er of God at Kvatakhevi is situated in the Kas-
cance for Medieval Georgian architecture, is pi region, within the Kavtura River Valley. It
located in the Kaspi region, on the bank of is one of the domed churches dating to the
the Lekhura River. This domed church was 12th-13th centuries that became a model
built by Bishop Hilarion Samtavneli in 1030, for the architecture of subsequent centuries.
over the grave of one of the holy Assyr- The church is abundantly adorned with rich
ian Fathers from the 6th century, St. Isidore stone carvings. Apart from the church, the
Samtavneli. Distinguished by architectural Kvatakhevi Complex also contains Late Me-
features and the exquisiteness of stone carv- dieval and the 19th century refectory, a bell-
ings, the church had been partially restored tower, a wall surrounding the complex, and
in the 15th and 19th centuries. There are cells. Kvatakhevi is considered to be one of
murals painted by Meliton Samtavneli dur- the main shrines in Kartli. Many people were
ing the 17th century within the chancel. The martyred here in the 15th century.
remnants of an early Medieval basilica, a sin-
gle-nave church from a later period, an 18th-
century bell-tower, and an episcopal palace
are all part of a complex revealed as a result
of archaeological excavations. The grave of
St. Isidore (commemoration day – 20 May) is
venerated as the relic of the church.

www.georgia.travel 29
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

KVEMO KARTLI
A region in Eastern Georgia, with Rustavi being the administrative center. Kartli is one of Geor-
gia’s most important economic centers, being second in line after Tbilisi according to its indus-
trial production output. It has good transport connections due to its geographical location,
with highways and main lines for railway transit. Many monuments of nature, architecture,
and culture are located within Kvemo Kartli. It is especially interesting from an archaeological
standpoint. The climate is humid-subtropical and subtropical-continental (the median annual
temperature is 12-13º C).

From architectural point of view most important are the oldest basilica in Bolnisi, the churches
at Betania, Pitareti, Tsughrughasheni; the murals of the Betania church are of very high artistic
quality.

30 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Dmanisi “Nakalakari”
www.georgia.travel 31
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Betania Monastery
Bolnisi Sioni

BOLNISIS SIONI
One of the most ancient episcopal cathedrals
of the Georgian Church, Bolnisi Sioni is one
of the most important basilican structures
that have survived in the country. Being con-
Betania Monastery

structed of well-hewn greenish-turquoise


tufa stone in 478-493 and distinguished by
its monumentality, the church is significant
due its oldest majuscule inscriptions and a
concentration of stone reliefs in the interior.
Next to the church is a three-storey bell-tower
by the Orbeli clan using fragments from
standing from the 17th century. Murals dat-
an older 9th-10th-century structure, faced
ing from the same time period are preserved
with hewn stone, and decorated with stone
inside it and in the church interior as well.
carvings is one of the ancient buildings still
remaining. Apart from the church's archi-
BETANIA tecture, partially preserved murals from the
MONASTERY 11th, 12th, and 13th centuries, including a
royal portrait – George III, King Tamar, and
The Monastery of the Mother of God at
George IV Lasha – are immensely important.
Betania is situated in the Vere River Valley,
A chapel from the year 1196 stands nearby
close to Tbilisi. A cruciform, domed church
faced with hewn stone and adorned with
from the 12th century, having been built
stone carved ornamentation. At present it is

32 www.georgia.travel
The Pitareti Monastery Complex ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

a male monastery and a burial place of the


20th c. Saints – fathers John (Maisuradze)
and John-George (Mkheidze) (commemora-
tion day – 21 September).

THE PITARETI
Tsughrughasheni Church

MONASTERY COMPLEX
Pitareti Monastery is situated in the Ktsia Riv-
er Gorge, close to the small town of Bolnisi.
Its domed church, dedicated to the Mother
of God, had been built by the Kavtar Kaji-
paisdze, an official to King George IV Lasha, TSUGHRUGHASHENI CHURCH
in the years 1213-1222. Having been built
using stones of various hues, the church is The domed church of St. George at
adorned with a variety of highly exquisite Tsughrughasheni stands opposite to the
stone carvings, in which images of lions, cathedral of Bolnisi Sioni in the Poladauri
birds, and human heads have been inserted. River Valley. Having been erected during the
13th-century murals are partially preserved years 1213-1222 by a certain Hasan son of
in the church, being restored in the 17th Arseni, the church has a unique appearance,
century. There are other buildings existing a facing of poly-chromatic hewn stone, and
from this same period (a church wall, bell- a great abundance of unusual, stone-carved
tower, a wine cellar, etc.) all around. At pre- ornaments, in which images of animals have
sent it is a male monastery. been added throughout.

www.georgia.travel 33
The Gergeti Trinity church
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

MTSKHETA-MTIANETI
This is one of the most beautiful regions of Georgia. Its administrative centre is Mtskheta, a
city-museum since 1968, inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage List. Here side by side are
snowy mountains of the Great Caucasus with 3500 and 5000 m. high picks and passes beauti-
ful gorges, lakes and Alpine meadows. One of the famous mountain skiing resorts – Gudauri
is located in the region. Flora and fauna of the region is very rich and diverse. Climate in the
lowlands of the region is temperately humid-subtropical. Winters are temperately cold and
summers are long and warm, while in Kazbegi district, in the zone of 2600-3600 m. above the
sea level, no true summer ever comes. Higher than 3600 m. above the sea level, is the realm
of eternal snow and glaciers, with the annual duration of snow cover reaching 5-7 months.

In this region there are several outstanding architectural monuments – The Ananuri Ensem-
ble, the Gergeti Trinity church, church of St George of Lomisa; most distinguished both from
architectural, religious and historical points of view are Shiomgvime and Zedazeni monastery.

www.georgia.travel 35
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Ananuri Ensemble


THE ANANURI ENSEMBLE The main tower is the one standing the highest,
a quadratic, many-storied tower “The Impervi-
The mighty fortified castle of the Aragvian ous One”. Here, there are also rooms fit for habi-
military governors is located on the Geor- tation. There is one room per each floor.
gian Military Highway on the right bank of
the Aragvi River. There are three churches, The Ananuri Complex is one of the best ar-
some towers, a spring, and a water reservoir chitectural monuments from the Late Middle
densely placed on a small piece of land, sur- Ages in which structures fulfilling military,
rounded by a stone wall. The earliest struc- ritual, and secular purposes have been gath-
ture is a Khevsurian-type tower (16th cent.). ered together. Ananuri was the main shrine
The small domed church “The Divinity”, with and a symbol of authority for the Aragvian
the painted canopy over the grave belongs military governors.
to the middle of the 17th century. According
to an inscription preserved on the southern The churches are operational. Hieromartyr
wall, the ensemble's main cruciform domed Dositheos Kutateli († 1820; commemoration
church, dedicated to the Mother of God, had day – 6 (19) March) is buried here.
been constructed in 1689 through the initia-
tive of Bardzim the Head Judge. The construc- THE GERGETI TRINITY CHURCH
tion was managed by Kaikhosro Baghsarash-
vili. The church walls have been abundantly The Gergeti Holy Trinity Church is prominent
adorned with facade décor. Fragments of mu- monument of Georgian architecture and an
rals dating to the same period have survived outstanding sample of landscape architec-
in the interior. There is yet another single- ture. The church has been erected on a moun-
nave church “The Healer”, which has been taintop at 2,200 m above sea level, with the
erected outside of the stone wall. A bell-tower 5,047 m high mountain of Kazbegi towering
has been built on its flat roof. over it.

36 www.georgia.travel
The Gergeti Trinity church ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Closed within a stone wall, the architectural


ensemble of Gergeti consists of the domed
Trinity Church dating to the 1430's and a
bell-tower that had been built during the
subsequent years of the same century. The
church has an annex built onto the southern
side fulfilling a unique function, “Sabcheo”
St. George of Lomisa

(The Council – the turn of the 16th cent.) - a


place for elders of the Khevi community to
consult with each other. For many centuries,
Trinity Church was the storehouse and also
the hiding place for the treasury of Mtskheta.
One of the holiest relics for Georgian Chris-
tians – the Cross of St. Nino, had been kept male monastery has been established at Holy
precisely in this location for a long period of Trinity. Miracle-working icon of the Virgin is
time. The 16th century painted decoration of housed here. The feast day of the church –
the church's chancel-barrier is noteworthy, “Gergetoba” – is celebrated on 16 July.
being revealed during a restoration in 2006
and contains the image of St. Nino. The vig- ST. GEORGE OF LOMISA
orous body of the church and modest facade
décor leaves one with a monumental impres- The Church of St. George of Lomisa is situated
sion. The bell-tower is relatively more lavishly on the mountain pass acting as a watershed
decorated – clusters of grapes, fantastic fig- for the Ksani and Aragvi Rivers at 2,400 m
ures of animals and people. The Gergeti Holy above sea level.
Trinity is an especially famous shrine and the
only domed structure in Khevi. At present, a Lomisa was the pre-Christian deity in Mtiuleti

www.georgia.travel 37
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Shiomghvime Monastery
and finally became connected to the name SHIOMGHVIME MONASTERY
of St. George after the Christianization of the
mountain regions. Shiomghvime Monastery is located 9 km
away from Mtskheta on the left bank of the
At the turn of the 9th to the 10th century, a Mtkvari, on the south slope of the Skhaltba
Christian church dedicated to St. George was Ridge. The monastery was founded in the
erected in Lomisa. The church is of a single- middle of the 6th century by one of the As-
nave plan, being built with rough-hewn syrian Fathers, St. Shio, who lived in a small
stones. There is a porch built on the south cave (thus the name “Shiomghvime” - “Shio's
side. The church has been altered many times, Cave”).
changing its interior significantly.
A church dedicated to St. John the Baptist
Around the church, burial vaults and the (560-570) is the monastery's most ancient
remnants of structures used for different pur- structure, which had been built when St. Shio
poses, and a two-storied bell-tower from the was still alive. The lower portion of the church
Late Middle Ages have survived.A set of large has been set into the rock. Between the years
ritual iron chains are kept at Lomisa Church. 1010-1033, Catholicos Melchisedek I had an
Icons ad crosses of the church are now kept chancel-barrier made for the church. Its stone
at the Kvemo Mleta church. Lomisa was the carvings and reliefs are the best sample of
foremost shrine of the Mtiuleti and Ksani Val- Medieval Georgian sculpture (at present are
leys. Many important issues have been de- kept in Tbilisi, in State Museum of Fine Arts).
cided here. In the 11th and subsequent centuries annex-
es and a bell-tower were built to the church.
The church is currently operational. Its feast –
“Lomisoba” is celebrated on the seventh Sun- St. King David the Builder built the large brick
day after the Easter. domed Church of the Dormition during the

38 www.georgia.travel
Zedazeni Monastery ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

years 1103-1123. The building was trans- to the northeast. The name “Zedazeni” (Zeda
formed into a three-nave basilica in 1678, Zadeni) originates from the name of the most
whereas a defensive tower was added onto ancient pagan deity of the Georgians, Zadeni.
the church in the 18th century. Both church-
es were painted in early 20th century by N. The monastery was founded by one of the As-
Andreev and G. Zaziashvili. syrian Fathers in the 6th century, John of Zeda-
zeni, who is buried here. A single-nave church
A spring, the so-called “Spring of Tears” by the was erected on his grave. It was included into a
entrance gate is mentioned in the Life of St. basilica of St. John the Baptist built by Catholi-
Shio. Its architectural design dates to 1901. cos Clement during the years 760-770. In the
A small single-nave church of the Ascension 9th c. a porch was built to the church. In the
of the Cross has been constructed on top of 18th century, Catholicos Domentius attached
a hill 1 km away from the monastery to the a brick bell-tower onto the porch and restored
southeast, with the 13th century mural deco- the church. Cells for monks and a remnant of
ration in its interior. the surrounding wall are also from the same
period. Holy Bishop Alexander Okropiridze had
At present a male monastery is established repaired the church in the 19th century. Surviv-
here. The main relic of the monastery is the ing fragments of the murals are probably from
grave of St. Shio (commemoration days – 20 the 17th century.
and 22 May).
There are monks currently living on the mon-
ZEDAZENI MONASTERY astery grounds. The relics of the monastery
are the grave of St. John (commemoration
Zedazeni Monastery has been built on the day – 25 December) and a well miraculously
left bank of the Aragvi River, on top of the emerged as a result of the saint's prayer in the
Saguramo Ridge, 8 km away from Mtskheta north aisle of the basilica.

www.georgia.travel 39
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

SAMTSKHE-JAVAKHETI
This is the oldest southern Georgian region, its administrative centre being the town of
Akhaltsikhe. Numerous archaeological monuments are unearthed on its territory. The region
is the richest in lakes and is even called the realm of lakes. According to the tradition, the
greatest Georgian poet, Shota Rustaveli, was of Meskhetian origin. The region is also famous
for Borjomi-Bakuriani resort zone. Winters are cold and less snowy here, while summers are
long and warm. Median annual air temperature ranges between -30 C and +90 C. Samtskhe-
Javakheti abounds in distinguished Christian monuments, which leave unforgettable
impression on the visitor.

In this region there are several important monuments of Georgian medieval architecture:
Poka, Sapara, and Zarzma with outstanding murals. Of special significance is the rock-cut
monastery at Vardzia with brilliant frescos and Vani Caves.

40 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

“Queen Tamar and King George III”


www.georgia.travel 41
Frescos of Vardzia
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Vardzia
VARDZIA
Vardzia, a 12th century rock-cut town-
monastery, is located in historic Javakheti,
on the left bank of the Mtkvari, 30 km from
Aspindza, holding a prominent place in rock
architecture not only in Georgian, but in
world history. The construction of Vardzia
is connected with the names of St. King
Tamar and her father – King George III. The
complex has been carved into a 500-meter
long section of the cliff, consisting of 13
levels. It comprises more than 600 caves.
The complex was supplied with a plumbing
system and drinking water. Rooms for
Vardzia

different purposes are also encountered


here: the so-called “Pharmacy”, “Tamar’s
Hall”, “The Banquet Room”, “The Refectory”,
“The Stable”, etc. father King George.

The main structure at Vardzia is a single-nave Only two built structures were located in the
church of the Dormition. Its exquisite mural Vardzia complex, which was damaged early
decoration dating to the turn of the 13th enough – these are a two-storey bell-tower
century, apart from the religious scenes, (13th cent.), with only the ground floor
contains the portraits of King Tamar and her remaining today, and the porch of the main

42 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Rock-cut Monastery of Vani (Vahani) Caves


Poka Mothers Monastery

church 13th cent.). The exterior window framings are adorned


with exquisite ornamentation and lapidary
Of certain importance is the Ananauri inscriptions.
settlement, in the 10th century rock-cut
church of which fine 13th and 15th century There are currently a residence of Catholicos-
murals are preserved. Patriarch of Georgia and functioning male
and female monasteries here.
Currently there is a male monastery at
Vardzia. THE ROCK-CUT MONASTERY
OF VANI (VAHANI) CAVES
POKA MOTHERS MONASTERY
The monastery complex is located on the
Poka is a village that has been built in right bank of the Mtkvari, close to Vardzia
historical Javakheti on the shore of Lake and consists of 200 caves and several
Paravani, first being mentioned in the 4th churches spread out over 16 levels. The
century on a map by Castorius. St. Nino had earliest dwellings date to the 8th century.
rested precisely in this spot when she had The remnants of an early 11th century, rock-
entered Georgia to preach Christianity. cut domed church dedicated to St. George
with a two-storey burial chapel, a built stone
A single-nave church dedicated to St. porch, a burial chapel and an ornamented
Nino was constructed by Mikel, “the chancel-barrier, is one of the remarkable cult
banakasalari of Kartli” (presumably the structures. A small, domed church built into
“khurotmodzghvarukhutsesi” - the senior an upper terrace deserves special attention,
architect), through the commission of John where a large number of drawings and
Okropiri, the Catholicos of Kartli, during the inscriptions written in the modern Georgian
years 1030-1040, in the center of the village. alphabet have been preserved on the walls,

www.georgia.travel 43
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Sapara
having been done with black ink in the 15th-
16th centuries. One of the stanzas from The
Knight in the Panther’s Skin is legible.

The Vani Caves, as well as Vardzia, were


property belonging to the king and were
one of the leading spiritual and literary
centres of the region.

SAPARA
The monastery of Sapara is located about
10-12 km from Akhaltsikhe close to Ghreli
Village in the depths of a canyon. The
monastery was one of the residences of the
Tsikhisjvarel-Jakeli clan rulling Samtskhe
and their burial place. A 10th-century
single-nave church of the Dormition, a small
11th-century chapel, the domed Church of
The small-sized single-nave church of
St. Sabas from the second half of the 13th
the Dormition is the earliest structure. A
century, a bell-tower and a palace dating to
remarkable chancel-barrier adorned with 11th-
the 13th-14th centuries, the Church of St.
century relief sculptures had been kept here (it
George from the 14th-16th centuries, small
is currently at the State Museum of Art).
chapels, and the ruins of towers are all part
of the ensemble surrounded by a wall.
The chief structure is the cruciform,

44 www.georgia.travel
Zarzma ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

domed church of St. Sabas, having facades monastery was founded by the 8th century
abundantly and richly adorned with monk – St. Serapion of Zarzma, although
stone carvings. There are many lapidary nothing from the earlier structures has
inscriptions, with one of them preserving the survived. The monastery currently consists
name of one of the architects – Paresasdze. of a domed church, a bell-tower, and the
The entire church interior was painted in the remnants of a few small-sized single-nave
same period, representing a significant work churches. A 10th century inscription has been
of Georgian monumental art. Apart from preserved on an architrave stone belonging
religious subjects, the Atabags of Samtskhe to the oldest chapel located next to the bell-
are also depicted here. Family portrait of tower. The main structure is the 13th-14th
the Jakelis is preserved in the murals of the century domed Church of the Dormition
Dormition church. (earlier dedicated to the Transfiguration)
of high artistic level. The interior of the
The bell-tower consists of two stories. There church is adorned with the mural decoration
is a chapel and a sepulcher on the ground comprising several chronological layers.
floor which belonged to Lasurisdze, the Apart from the traditional subjects, 14th
head butler of the Jakeli clan. The portraits and 16th century historical figures are also
of the members of this family have been depicted here. The bell-tower, being from
depicted on the northern wall. the same period as the main church and
having richly adorned facades, had been
Sapara is currently a functioning monastery. restored by the Khurtsidze clan, the patrons
of Zarzma, in the 16th century.
ZARZMA
There is currently a functioning male
Zarzma Monastery is located in Zarzma monastery here.
Village within the Kvabliani Valley. The

www.georgia.travel 45
Alaverdi
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

KAKHETI
A region in eastern Georgia, Kakheti is one of the oldest centres of viticulture and wine mak-
ing. About 80 kinds of vine are spread here. The history of wine making in Kakheti goes back
to the III-II Mill. B.C. Kakheti is well known for the richness of its cultural heritage. It is also dis-
tinguished by the diversity of its climate and landscape, uniting both subtropical and steppe
features. Annual median air temperature in winter is +140 C and +230, +250 C – in summer.

The Kakheti region is especially rich with the monuments of early Christian architecture:
Nekresi Monastery, Dzveli Shuamta The All-Holy Virgin of Gurjaani as well as of medieval peri-
od: Alaverdi, , Ikalto, Bodbe Convent, The Church of the Archangels at Gremi, Akhali Shuamta;
Special interest is to be paid to the rock-cut monasteries of Davit-Gareja, distinguished with
fine and unique wall paintings.

www.georgia.travel 47
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA
Akhali Shuamta

Bodbe Convent

AKHALI SHUAMTA is a nuns' convent re-established here. The


feast day of the church is celebrated on 21
The Akhali (New) Shuamta Monastery September.
Complex has been built a few kilometers
from Telavi, in the Shuamta Forest. It was AKHALI SHUAMTA
founded by Queen Tinatin, the wife of the
Kakhetian King Levan in the 1540's. She had The Akhali (New) Shuamta Monastery Complex
also constructed the domed Church of the has been built a few kilometers from Telavi, in
Mother of God of Khakhuli and a four-storey the Shuamta Forest. It was founded by Queen
bell-tower to the northwest of it, on territory Tinatin, the wife of the Kakhetian King Levan in
encircled by a stone wall. Tinatin having the 1540's. She had also constructed the domed
taken veil here by 1550 lived in the bell-tower. Church of the Mother of God of Khakhuli and a
Tinatin's daughter, nun Thekle, built an annex four-storey bell-tower to the northwest of it, on
onto the church at the end of the century. territory encircled by a stone wall. Tinatin having
The church decorated with blind arches and taken veil here by 1550 lived in the bell-tower.
crosses on the facades is also adorned with Tinatin's daughter, nun Thekle, built an annex
the interior murals of the same epoch, which, onto the church at the end of the century. The
apart from the traditional subject scenes, church decorated with blind arches and crosses
contain portraits of Queen Tinatin and King on the facades is also adorned with the interior
Levan. Restoration works were undertaken in murals of the same epoch, which, apart from
the monastery in the 18th century and works the traditional subject scenes, contain portraits
that had disfigured the church were carried of Queen Tinatin and King Levan. Restoration
out in the 19th century. The church has now works were undertaken in the monastery in
regained its former appearance. Today, there the 18th century and works that had disfigured

48 www.georgia.travel
Alaverdi ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

the church were carried out in the 19th century. Various buildings from different periods and
The church has now regained its former serving different functions survive on the
appearance. Today, there is a nuns' convent re- church territory, surrounded by the 17th-18th
established here. The feast day of the church is centuries stone wall: a palace of bishop from
celebrated on 21 September. the 16th century, the palace of Feikar Khan,
the Iranian Vice Shah in Kakheti from the 17th
ALAVERDI century, as well as various other structures
from the time of the Persian dominion – a
The Church of St. George at Alaverdi is located wine cellar, a bell-tower, a bathhouse, etc.
in the Akhmeta District, in the Alazani Valley,
on the left bank of the river. It seems likely Alaverdi is the highest among the old
that a pagan shrine had been at the church’s churches of Georgia. It was an important
location. One of the Assyrian Fathers, St. spiritual, cultural, and educational center
Joseph of Alaverdi, had constructed the for many centuries. Well-known Georgian
Church here in the 6th century, whereas in men of letter and calligraphers have labored
the first quarter of the 11th c., King Quiricus here. The founder, St. Joseph of Alaverdi
of Kakheti had commissioned erection of (commemoration day – 20 May), is buried
the one of the largest domed cathedral in in the church, which was also a burial place
Georgia at the same spot. Its monumental for the Kakhetian kings; in the 17th century,
facades have been designed in the laconic relics of St. Queen Ketevan were buried
style characteristic of Kakhetian architecture. under the altar. On 28 September, a feast-
Fragments of the mural painting from the day - “Alaverdoba” – is held annually here. The
11th, 15th-16th, 17th centuries have been Alaverdi Monastery is currently operational.
preserved in the interior.

www.georgia.travel 49
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Davit-Gareja
DAVIT-GAREJA David of Gareja. The monasteries – “Udabno”,
Chichkhituri, Bertubani, Kolagiri, “Tsamebuli”,
The grandiose complex of cave monasteries and others had been founded during later
is a remarkable religious-cultural center of times.
the Medieval Georgia and one of the largest
monastic establishments in the world. It is The monastic life, spiritual, and creative
located about 60-70 km from Tbilisi to the activities never ceased throughout the
southeast on the slope of the watershed middle ages, even until the end of the 18th
between the Iori and Mtkvari Basins. A century. The 11th-13th centuries was a time of
minor portion of the complex is currently on a special efflorescence, during the unification
Azerbaijanian territory. of the Georgian Kingdom. Hundreds of rock-
cut monastic cells, churches, chapels, and
Spread out for 25 km, the monastery had refectories have been preserved at Davit-
been founded by St. David of Gareja, one Gareja. 9th-18th century mural decorations
of the Assyrian Fathers, in the 6th century. the Gareja monasteries are of the utmost
Monuments of all epochs, from the 6th importance for the development of Georgian
century onwards, including the 19th century, and, in general, of world mural painting, due
are preserved here. to their diversity and high artistic merits. They
bear evidence to the existence of a school
The most ancient monastery is the Laura of of painting at Gareja, distinguished by its
David founded by Father David. Two other exceptional artistic character. The relics of the
monasteries: the so-called “Dodo-Rka” (“Horn Davit-Gareja are the grave of St. David, the so
of Dodo”) and Natlismtsemeli (the Baptist) called “Spring of Tear”, emerged through his
had also been created during the time of St. prayer and relics of the 6000 martyred.

50 www.georgia.travel
The Church of the Archangels at Gremi ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The All-Holy Virgin of Gurjaani

The monastery is currently operational. churches, etc. The feast day of currently
operational church is celebrated on 21
THE CHURCH OF THE November.
ARCHANGELS AT GREMI
THE CHURCH OF THE
One of the best examples of the Late Medieval ARCHANGELS AT GREMI
Georgian architecture, the Church of the
Archangels at Gremi, dating to 1565, has One of the best examples of the Late Medieval
been constructed in the Kvareli District, at the Georgian architecture, the Church of the
Gremi town-site, on a slightly elevated spot. Archangels at Gremi, dating to 1565, has
The church had been built during the reign of been constructed in the Kvareli District, at the
King Levan of Kakheti and he is buried here. Gremi town-site, on a slightly elevated spot.
His portrait with the inscription: “King Leon The church had been built during the reign of
the Builder”, is included into the murals of the King Levan of Kakheti and he is buried here.
church of the same period. His portrait with the inscription: “King Leon
the Builder”, is included into the murals of the
A residential tower has been erected on this church of the same period.
small platform next to the church. Unity of
the church and the tower, their compositional A residential tower has been erected on this
and artistic wholeness contribute to an small platform next to the church. Unity of
unforgettable artistic effect. Ruins of the the church and the tower, their compositional
former capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti and artistic wholeness contribute to an
have survived at the base of this ensemble unforgettable artistic effect. Ruins of the
– a bathhouse, lines of bazaar shops, several former capital of the Kingdom of Kakheti

www.georgia.travel 51
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Nekresi Monastery
have survived at the base of this ensemble well as a 9th century episcopal palace, a 16th
– a bathhouse, lines of bazaar shops, several century tower, a wine cellar, a refectory, cells
churches, etc. The feast day of currently for the monks, small chapels, and buildings
operational church is celebrated on 21 fulfilling different functions from a later
November. period. At present the male monastery is
again operational. Its feast day is celebrated
NEKRESI MONASTERY on 12 December.

Nekresi Monastery is built on the thick, IKALTO


forested slope of a mountain a few kilometers
from Kvareli, close to Shilda Village. Over the The Ikalto Monastery Complex has been
centuries it was a influential Christian center built about 7-8 km to the north of Telavi. It
of the diocese. is founded by one of the Assyrian Fathers,
St. Zenon, in the 6th century. It was a vibrant
From an artistic-historical standpoint, the center of Georgian culture, spirituality, and
complex consists of exceptionally important education for many centuries. According
buildings from different periods and fulfilling to tradition, a school of higher education
different functions. Among them remarkable – an academy had been established here,
are: the earliest preserved miniature Christian where a well-known Georgian philosopher
chapel in Georgia from the 4th century; a 7th Arseni of Ikalto was active (11th-12th cent.).
century three-church basilica, in which 16th As a result of archaeological excavations,
century murals are preserved (they were it was discovered that many structures - a
commissioned by King Levan of Kakheti); 9th workshop, a blacksmith shop, a wine cellar,
century domed church of a peculiar plan; as and other subsidiary facilities existed around

52 www.georgia.travel
Ikalto ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

the Academy. (commemoration day – 19 February) of Ikalto


are buried here.

DZVELI SHUAMTA
The Dzveli (Old) Shuamta Monastery is located
in Kakheti, in a thick forest, 7 kilometers from
Telavi. A three-aisled basilica from the 5th
Dzveli Shuamta

century and two domed churches from the


7th century typologically resembling the
Church of the Holy Cross at Mtskheta are
the buildings currently preserved within the
There are three churches on the monastery monastery. The construction material used
grounds, with the chief one being the 8th-9th for all three of the structures is, basically,
century cruciform-domed church “Divinity”, cobblestone, traditional for Kakheti and a
altered in the 19th century and built upon the small amount of shirimi (water tufa) stone.
site of an old church. Despite considerable Although, the monastery was abandoned
alterations, in the small Church of the Trinity, from the 16th century, the churches had
parts of the 6th century domed church have reached us without considerable losses and
survived. And finally, the single-nave church alterations. Dzveli Shuamta is one of the
of “All-Holy Virgin” from the High Middle Ages significant samples of the Early Medieval
has been preserved here. The monastery Georgian architecture.
churches are currently operational. St. Zenon
(commemoration day – 20 May) and St. Arseni

www.georgia.travel 53
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

IMERETI
It is one of the historical, geographical regions of Western Georgia. The main city is Kutaisi.
Imereti is notable for its rich spiritual, agricultural, and material culture. You can visit the
Sataplia and Ajameti Nature Reserves in Imereti. A sub-tropical sea climate is dominant in
Imereti, being warm during the winters and hot during the summers. The annual median
air temperature is around 11-15º C. The climate of Zemo Imereti is humid, sub-tropical. The
winters here are comparatively colder, with much precipitation.

In Imereti there are several outstanding monuments of the Georgian Christian architecture
and history of church: Bagrati Cathedral, Gelati monastery, Mostasameta, the Katskhi pillar.
Ubissi church is famous for its unique murals.

54 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Gelati Monastery
www.georgia.travel 55
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Bagrati Cathedral
BAGRATI CATHEDRAL when the Turks had blown it up, resulting in
the collapse of the dome and the vaults. It
The cruciform, domed church of the was subsequently damaged when the Kutaisi
Dormition of the Mother of God, known Fortress was set free from the Turks in 1770.
as “Bagrati Cathedral”, stands in Kutaisi, on A restoration of Bagrati Cathedral had been
Arkieli Hill, on the left bank of the Rioni River. carried out several times during the years
Its name is linked with the king Bagrat III 1952-1994. The current appearance is the
(975-1014), who had built it at the end of the result of restoration work done in 2009-2012,
10th and the beginning of the 11th century. with the walls and vaults being rebuilt and
According to one of the inscriptions, its floor finished off by a new dome.
had been laid in 1003, although work had
continued until the year 1008. Western and GELATI MONASTERY
southern porches were added to the church
during the 1030’s. The facades of Bagrati Gelati Monastery is located on top of a
Cathedral have been adorned with stone- hill, on the outskirts of Gelati Village. The
carved ornaments. Two haut-relief heads monastery was founded by St. King David
facing each other are on the southern facade. IV the Builder in 1106. An academy, a centre
The sculptural décor of the porch columns are of education was also established by him in
notable for their diversity and high level of Gelati. Gelati was burned to the ground by
craftsmanship. Bagrati Cathedral is one of the the Turks in 1510. The Imeretian King Bagrat
largest Georgian churches. An 18th-century III (1510-1565) restored the monastery very
bell-tower stands southwest of the church. soon afterwards, first with the establishment
of a bishopric, and then transferring
The church had first suffered damage in 1692, the Catholicosate from Bichvinta. A few

56 www.georgia.travel
Gelati Monastery ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

structures make up the monastery complex, them is David IV the Builder, holding a church,
being surrounded by a stone wall. The main, standing in a line of Imeretian kings in 16th-
cruciform, domed Church of the Nativity century murals.
of the Mother of God was erected during
the years 1106-1130. During the 12th-13th Standing to the east of the main church is
centuries, porches and annexes were added the cruciform, domed Church of St. George,
to the church from the south and north. erected in the middle of the 13th century,
A major portion of the painted ensemble representing a slightly altered copy of the
within the church and its annexes was done Church of the Mother of God. The church’s
in the 16th and 17th centuries through the mural decoration had been created in the
initiatives of Imeretian kings, bishops of 16th century through the commission of
Gelati, and Western Georgian Catholicoses. Catholicos Evdemon I Chkhetidze and King
Only a few fragments have survived from the George II of Imeretia.
original mural decoration: a brilliant mosaic
in the apse conch (1125-1130) – the Mother The two-storey Church of St. Nicholas (the
of God with the Infant Child flanked by the end of the 13th cent.) stands to the west of
Archangels, high artistic level of which can be the Church of the Mother of God, whereas
compared with the best Byzantine mosaics, in the northwest is a three-storey bell-tower
and the narthex murals (1125-1130). Some (a spring is on its ground floor), having been
fragments of paintings from the 13th and erected in the second half of the 13th century.
14th centuries have survived in various parts The Gelati Academy must have been placed
of the church. It is quite remarkable that in a large structure situated a little further
many portraits of kings and clergymen have to the west. There are two entry gates in the
been preserved within the church, among wall surrounding the monastery. David the

www.georgia.travel 57
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA
Motsameta

Ubisa

Builder has been buried within the southern stood there during the Early Middle Ages,
gate of the monastery. being destroyed by Murvan the Deaf during
an Arab campaign (735-737). David and
Gelati Monastery was the patrimonial church Constantine – the Argvetian rulers, who
of Georgian kings and a burial place of were martyred in this battle, are buried in the
Western Georgian Catholicoses and Gelati church crypt. It seems likely that Bagrat IV
bishops. (1027-1072) had erected a monastery on this
spot a few centuries later, laying the relics of
In the church of St. George, sacred relics are the holy martyrs to rest in its church. Thus the
kept, including those of St. George and St. monastery was called “Motsameta” (motsame
Nicholas. King Demetre I (monastic name – martyr, with “Motsameta” roughly meaning
Damian) and 19th century Saint, Gabriel “place of the martyrs” (trans.) The small-sized
Bishop of Imereti are buried in Gelati. single-name church that had been built by
Bagrat IV was widened in the middle of the
MOTSAMETA 19th century and topped off with a dome,
with the construction work being done by
The Motsameta Monastery Complex stands Levan, Moses, and Phillip Berekashvili. The
on a high peak in the Tskaltsitela River decoration of the church facades was also
Valley, close to Kutaisi, harmoniously fits to carried out by them. A fresco composition of
the environment. Surrounded by a wall, the the Deesis dating to the 15th-16th centuries
monastery consists of the domed Church of has survived in the apse conch. A reliquary
the Annunciation (1844-1865), a bell-tower containing the relics of St. David and St.
(1846), two towers, and cells for the monks Constantine stands by the eastern wall of the
(1960). A Church of the Annunciation had church (commemoration day – 14 October).

58 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

murals are a remarkable example of the


so-called Palaeologan style and are one
of the distinguished samples of Georgian
monumental art from the middle ages. A
rather extensive life cycle of St. George has
been represented along with the feast cycle
scenes. An image of a Georgian saint, David
of Argveti, is also noteworthy.

Ubisa belongs to a number of rare medieval


monuments that have preserved the names
of its architect – Mavrik the Builder and the
painter – Gerasime, in its inscriptions.

THE KATSKHI PILLAR


The Katskhi Pillar is a limestone monolith
40 m. heigh located in the Katskhura River
The Katskhi Pillar

Gorge close to Katskhi Village. A luminous


cross - “Dzeli Tskhoveli” (The Life-giving Tree)
– had been carved on the base of the rock
pillar in the 6th century and from this time
onwards the Katskhi Pillar was given the
UBISA name of Dzeli Tskhoveli or Sveti Tskhoveli.
There is a small monastery complex on top
Ubisa Monastery is located in Ubisa Village. of the pillar, a hermitage where a few monks
The monastery was founded by St. Gregory lived. The monastery consists of a small-
of Khandzta in the 9th century. The main sized, 10th-century single-nave church built
single-nave church dedicated to St. George, of shirimi stone (water tufa), supposedly
with annexes on three sides, belongs to this dedicated to the Holy Cross, some semi-rock
period (the western annex is from the 16th cut cells, and a subsidiary facility. There is a
century). Simon of Chkondidi built a four- crypt underneath the church. Monastic life
storey tower – a place for a stylite to live – to on the Katskhi Pillar was interrupted during
the east of the church in 1141. A bell-tower the 16th-17th centuries and resumed in 1997.
erected during a later period also stands in Having been reduced to ruins, the church
the yard. The monastery is surrounded by a was covered with a new roof and underwent
wall constructed of cobblestone. restoration. A single-nave church from the
9th-10th century, dedicated to St. Simeon the
The Church of St. George at Ubisa is famous Stylite and some modern cells stand at the
for its wall paintings. The 14th-century base of the pillar.

www.georgia.travel 59
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Likhauri Church
60 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

GURIA
The region is located in western Georgia on the Black Sea coast. The administrative center is
the town of Ozurgeti. Here are seaside and mountainous resorts and medicinal and drinkable
mineral water “Nabeghlavi” being popular in the international market.

The outstanding architectural monument is Shemokmedi monastery, and of great significance


are the murals of the Achi church.

www.georgia.travel 61
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Shemokmedi Monastery
SHEMOKMEDI
MONASTERY
Shemokmedi Monastery is situated on a steep
hill approximately 7 km from Ozurgeti to the
southeast. There are two churches clinging
to each other within the monastery complex.
One of them is a large-size three-nave basilica,
supposedly constructed in the 16th century
and then repaired at a later period. The second
Likhauri Church
one, a type of “domed hall” church, known by
the name of Zarzma, had been built by the
Gurian ruler, Vakhtang I the Gurian in ca. 1580
in order to house an icon of the Transfiguration
(886) and other holy relics transferred over
At present a male monastery is established
from Zarzma Monastery, following the Turkish
here.
conquest of Samtskhe (1577). Thus it was
called “Zarzma”. The church bears traces of a
renovation done during a later period. A 16th-
UDABNO MONASTERY
century bell-tower within the monastery had
The most ancient monastery complex in Guria
been restored during the 19th century. Murals,
stands on a rocky mountain slope. The entire
supposedly dating to the 16th-18th centuries
southern region of Guria unfolds before one’s
are preserved in both churches.
eyes from the male monastery of St. John the
Baptist at Udabno. According to architectural

62 www.georgia.travel
Achi ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Valley, Likhauri Village was the political center


of the Gurian military province during the
feudal era. A single-nave church dedicated
to the Mother of God, constructed during the
13th century, stands even today on top of a
hill in the middle of the village. It is protected
on one side by a stone wall, with a bell-tower
built of hewn stone inserted into it. Fragments
of 16th-century murals are preserved within
the church.
Udabno Monastery

ACHI
A single-nave church dedicated to St. George
and constructed from hewn stone stands
peculiarities, the monastery’s rock-cut church on a small hill in the center of Achi Village.
has been dated to the 13th century, although It had been erected and painted at the end
it can be supposed that monastic life had of the 13th century. Outside, the church
began much earlier here. At present a male seems quite modest, whereas the interior
monastery is established here. has been adorned with vivacious mural
decoration with remarkably light and bright
LIKHAURI CHURCH colors. Scenes from the life of St. George are
represented here along with the Feast cycle.
Having been built in the Achistskali River

www.georgia.travel 63
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

SAMEGRELO
Represents a western region of Georgia, with the administrative center Zugdidi. In ancient times
the legendary Kingdom of Colchis comprised the greatest portion of the territory of modern-
day Mingrelia. In this region the legendary Greek heroes sought the Golden Fleece. Ancient
Phazisi, founded in the 7th century B.C. and being an important port city, was located in the
environs of the modern town of Poti. The Colchis National Park is located in Mingrelia, covering
wetlands, aquatic sea areas, and Paliastomi Lake. The climate in the coastal regions of Mingrelia
is humid, subtropical, with hot summers and warm winters. In the lowlands the annual median
temperature is around 13-19º C. The air temperature decreases in the north as the mountains
increase in altitude.

From the architectural point of view the most important monuments are Martvili cathedral,
Khobi monastery, Tsalendjikha church, famous also for its brilliant wall-painting. The most sacred
and venerable Christian relics are stored in the Dadiani Palace museum.

64 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Virgin’s Mantle

www.georgia.travel 65
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Martvili Cathedral
MARTVILI CATHEDRAL throughout the centuries (10th, 16th, 18th-
19th cents.). The church is adorned with
Martvili cathedral stands on a hill situated reliefs on the exterior (7th cent. reliefs on the
between the Tskhenistskali and Abashistskali east and west facades) and 10th c. image of
Rivers close to the district center, Martvili. In Christ surviving on the porch pediment.
ancient times Martvili was called Chkondidi,
which means a big oak tree, due to a pagan The majority part of the church’s murals had
shrine, an oak tree, which stood there. St. been done in the 16th and 17th centuries,
Apostle Andrew had cut down the oak although certain fragments of earlier
tree, when he converted Mingrelians to paintings from the 13th and 14th centuries
Christianity. According to tradition, the altar have survived. The 16th-17th-century murals
of the Church of the Mother of God was have preserved remarkably interesting donor
placed on the stump of the oak tree. Sacred portraits. A small-sized two-storey domed
relics of martyrs (Georgian – “martvili) were church (11th cent.), called “The Chikvanta
kept in the church. The Chkondidi Diocese Church”, and a hermit “column” (11th cent.)
was one of the important spiritual centers stand in the monastery yard. Martvili was the
during the middle ages. Bishops of Martvili patrimonial burial place for Mingrelian rulers,
were called “Chkondideli”. the House of Dadiani in later centuries.

The domed Church of the Mother of God KHOBI MONASTERY


typologically belongs to the group of
churches resembling the Holy Cross of Khobi Monastery – itself the patrimonial
Mtskheta, dating to the 7th century, although church and one of the burial places of the
it had undergone considerable changes House of Dadiani – stands in a clearing on

66 www.georgia.travel
Khobi Monastery ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Church of the Dormition has been set on


the foundations of an old church, unifying
construction layers dating to the 12th and
the turn of the 14th centuries. The church is
of an unusual domeless cruciform plan, with
chambers in the corners and south-western
ambulatory. 6th-century Byzantine marble
plaques have been inserted into the masonry
of the southern gallery.

The mural decoration in the church naos


is mainly from the 17th century, although
Khobi Monastery

there are isolated pieces of older murals


(13th and 16th cent.). There are 14th-century
murals that had been commissioned by
Vamek Dadiani in the southeast chapel. The
church’s painted ensemble is remarkable for
top of a high hill close to Nojikhevi Village. the multitude of portraits of the 13th, 14th,
It was well-known for its relics, including the and 17th cent. Historic figures, donors of the
Mother of God, relics of St. Marina and St. paintings.
Cerycus, and a cross belonging to St. King
Tamar containing a piece of the True Cross (at A bell-tower has been placed in the wall
present they are kept at the Zugdidi Museum surrounding the monastery, with the gateway
and Tbilisi Museum of Fine Arts). arranged on its ground floor.The ruins of an

www.georgia.travel 67
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Dadiani Palace in Zugdidi


ancient palace have survived in the yard.

THE DADIANI PALACE IN


ZUGDIDI
In 1921 a museum was opened in the palace
of the Mingrelian rulers – the House of
Dadiani, in Zugdidi, where the basic collection
is represented by the patrimonial archive and
items of the Dadiani family.
The Dadiani Palace in Zugdidi

The architectural complex consists of: a


palace belonging to Queen Catherine
Chavchavadze-Dadiani, designed by the
German architect, G. Reiss in the 1850’s at
the spot of an older palace, the palace of
Niko Dadiani, from the 1880’s (by Russian
architect Leonid Vasiliev), and the Church of One of the richest collections in Georgia is
the Mother of God of Blachernae (19th cent.). kept at Zugdidi Museum. The museum also
is famous for its own holy relics. The Robe of
The botanical garden surrounding it is the Mother of God, the particles of the True
an indispensible part of the architectural Cross, and holy relics of St. George, St. John
ensemble, which was designed by a gardener the Baptist, St. Marina, St. Cerycus etc. are
invited from Trieste in 1840, Joseph Babini. kept here.

68 www.georgia.travel
The Church of the Savior at Tsalenjikha ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

THE CHURCH OF THE SAVIOR the church (1384-1396). It seems that local
AT TSALENJIKHA master artists had also assisted Eugenicus.
The portrait of Vameq Dadiani is pictured on
The cruciform domed Church of the Savior the northern wall. The iconography is one of
with an ambulatory on three sides was built the splendid productions of the Palaiologos
in the 14th century (there is an extant line of style, being an outstanding example of the
thought that the church had been built in the Constantinople school in the 14th century.
12th century, with the dome being restored
in the 14th century). Some time later, small- Members from the House of Dadiani and
sized ossuary chapels were constructed in figures that were close to them have been
the southern and northern portions of the buried in the church’s open galleries and
ambulatory. chapels, with iconography from the 15th,
16th, and 17th centuries in these places
The church at Tsalenjikha is famous for its wall having been done through their very
art. Iconography within the primary space of commission. Many donor portraits of the
the church is the only surviving example of Dadiani family have been preserved in the
the Constantinople school dating precisely to chapel iconography.
the 14th century, also preserving the names
of those who commissioned and painted The church is encircled by a stone wall, with a
the art. It is known from Georgian and Greek bell-tower being built into the northwestern
fresco inscriptions, that the ruler of Odishi, corner. The ruins of a palace belonging to
Vameq Dadiani had invited an iconographer the House of Dadiani have been preserved
from Constantinople – Cyrus Emanuel in the yard.
Eugenicus. He painted the central space of

www.georgia.travel 69
Svaneti
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

SVANETI
Zemo Svaneti, the highest mountainous region that is populated in Georgia, is remarkable
for its beauty, the diversity of natural zones (mountain slopes covered with deciduous and
evergreen trees, alpine meadows and grazing areas, glaciers and mountain peaks eternally
covered in snow), mineral waters, old customs and rituals surviving to the present day, and
rich folklore. Many traditional old dwelling complexes with towers and churches have survived
in villages tucked away in the valleys and spread out on the mountain slopes, superbly
blending in with the nature surrounding them. Icons and crosses have been kept to this day
in a majority of the churches. A significant portion of the cultural heritage preserved in Svaneti
is represented by wall paintings, which evidence the existence of the Svanetian School of
painting with its individual artistic identity (9th-17th cents.).

In Zemo (upper) Svaneti of special significance is the Ushguli Architectural Ensemble; nearly
every church comprises unique wall paintings: Nalipari, Kala, Jibiani, and Seti. The most sacred
relics and works of Christian art are stored in Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography

www.georgia.travel 71
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Ushguli Architectural Complex


THE USHGULI
ARCHITECTURAL COMPLEX
Ushguli is a historical community unifying
four villages that have been built at the base
of the highest peak in the Caucasus, Shkhara
(5,068 m.). Its indisputably impressionable
view is one of the “postcards” of Svaneti in

The Church of St. George at Nakipari Village


its entirety. The Ushguli community was
inscribed on the UNESCO World Heritage
List, having been declared a natural reserve.
Being built at 2,400 m above sea level,
Ushguli is one of the highest settlements in
Europe. The character of Svaneti’s medieval
settlements can be best felt in its villages –
with their narrow alleys, dwelling complexes
with towers, separately standing defense
towers, churches, and common community
gathering places. In this respect, Chazhashi the Church of the Savior. Currently, all the
Village is remarkable, historically the main most important works of repoussé art and
village of the Ushguli community. The entire icon painting as well as archaeological and
treasuries of the Ushguli community – ethnographical items have been transferred
repoussé and painted crosses and icons from over to a museum that is within a tower
the 10th-14th centuries – were kept there in standing close to the church.

72 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Church of Sts. Cerycus and Julitta at Kala


The Ushguli Architectural Complex

THE CHURCH OF ST. GEORGE AT own epoch preserved in them. The Church
NAKIPARI VILLAGE of St. Gabriel the Archangel (Svans call it
“Mkheri”, which means “the Messenger”)
The single-nave church at Nakipari, in Mukheli Village, on the left-hand side
dedicated to St. George, had been built in from the center of Lashtkhveri, was painted
the 10th century. The facade murals and in the middle of the 14th century by the
stone reliefs are of the same time period as painter David. Chancel murals of the Church
its construction. Its interior however, was of the Holy Archangels in Lashtkhveri also
painted by the well-known royal painter belong to him, whereas the paintings in
Theodore, in a highly impressionable the naos of the church done on the turn of
manner, in 1130. The composition of the the 14th to the 15th century are the works
apse conch and the life cycle of St. George of several master artists. All four of the
are especially attention grabbing. Among church facades had also been painted by
the 11th-13th repoussé icons kept in the one of them during the same period. It is
church, an 11th-century gilt silver repoussé worth noting that apart from the traditional
icon of St. George is remarkable. subject matter (the Deesis, St. Eustathius’
Hunt, images of the Warrior Saints), scenes
THE CHURCHES OF from the heroic epic “Amiran-Darejaniani”
LASHTKHVERI VILLAGE have been inserted into the facade mural
decoration at Lashtkhveri. Scenes from
There are two churches in Lashtkhveri “Amiran-Darejaniani” (17th cent.) have also
Village, the Church of the Holy Archangels been depicted on the northern facade of the
and the Church of St. Gabriel the Archangel, Church of the Savior at Chazhashi.
notable for the interesting murals of their

www.georgia.travel 73
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Church of the Dormition of the Mother of God at Zhibiani Village


THE CHURCH OF ST. CERYCUS
AND JULITTA AT KALA
Located by Khe Village, the Church of Sts.
Quiricus and Julitta (also called Lagurka) is
the greatest shrine in Zemo Svaneti. The
church had been built in the 10th century
and a monastery complex had also been

The Church of St. George at Seti


here in earlier times. Lagurka is adorned
with exquisite murals executed by the well-
known royal painter Theodore in 1112. Apart
from Gospel scenes, the mural decoration
also contains scenes from the martyrdom
of the church’s patron saints, exerting a
great influence upon the viewer through
its classical monumentalism and emotional
expressiveness. Repoussé and painted icons,
THE CHURCH OF THE
DORMITION OF THE MOTHER
crosses, etc. from the 10th-14th centuries are
OF GOD AT ZHIBIANI VILLAGE
kept in the church.
Dating from the 10th century, the Church
of the Dormition of the Mother of God (also
called Lamaria) at Zhibiani Village is one of the
shrines of the Ushguli community. Situated

74 www.georgia.travel
Svaneti History Museum ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

on a high hill, the church is accompanied by SVANETI HISTORY


a tower and high wall surrounding it. Two MUSEUM
layers of painting are distinguishable in the
church, with the most ancient belonging to The Svaneti History Museum existing in
the 10th century and the more recent layer Mestia is a museum of world significance.
being from the 13th century. The great feast A large portion of the vibrant heritage of
day, Lamarioba (Mariamoba) dedicated to the Svaneti region has been gathered here.
the Dormition of the Mother of God is held There are collections of ceramics, ritual items,
here on August 28. weapons, agricultural tools, and numismatic
collections among the almost 13,000
THE CHURCH OF exhibits kept here. Several exhibition halls
ST. GEORGE AT SETI have been devoted exclusively to Christian
treasures, where repoussé and painted
The Church of St. George at Seti is located icons, crosses, and examples of the some of
in the center of Mestia, being the main the most ancient Georgian manuscripts (one
cathedral. The church extant today had been of them are the Adishi Gospels made in 897)
built at the end of the 19th century over the created during the 9th-18th centuries and
foundations of the older church. Exemplary having global significance are on display.
work of repoussé art from the 11th century The Silikhani Icon is especially important,
– a pre-altar cross containing the life cycle of as a relic from the Golgotha Cross has been
St. George, as well as repoussé and painted inserted into it.
icons from the 11th-13th centuries are some
of the most remarkable sacred objects kept
at the church.

www.georgia.travel 75
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

RACHA-LECHKHUMI
Being located in the furthermost region in the country’s NW, the administrative center of
Racha, Lechkhumi, and Kvemo Svaneti is Ambrolauri. Its originality and uniqueness is not only
defined by its geographic location, but also by its rich and varied flora and fauna. The region’s
mountainous realm, the snowy peaks and ridges of the Caucasus, rivers and waterfalls,
myriads of forested areas, the animals and birds spread about therein, natural grottoes and
caves, mountain passes, alpine meadows, beautiful roads and paths, the Shaori and Lajani
reservoirs, and other astounding sights delight all those who see them. Local medicinal mineral
waters and resorts are important. There are countless interesting historical, ethnographical,
archaeological, and architectural monuments. Two outstanding monuments of the Christian
Georgian architecture are preserved in Racha: Nikortsminda and Barakoni churches.

76 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Nikortsminda
www.georgia.travel 77
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA
Nikortsminda

Barakoni

NIKORTSMINDA BARAKONI
The Church of St. Nicholas at Nikortsminda In order to see the Church of the Mother of
was built during the years 1010-1014. You will God of Barakoni, we must go to Tsesi Village.
not see such a richly, vibrantly ornamented The church was built by a master craftsman,
church as this anywhere else in Georgia. Avtandil of Shulaveri in 1753, through the
This is a central domed church. All twelve commission of Rostom, the military governor
of the dome windows, the column bases of Racha. The cruciform, domed church has
and capitals, the vaults of the porches, and been constructed with hewn stone, with
all other details have been adorned with the dome being supported on the corners
lavish and superb ornamentation. All the of the chancel and two, free-standing piers.
ornaments seen on the facades of churches The church facades have been adorned with
built during that epoch in Georgia have been stone carvings of high professional mastery.
gathered here together. Nikortsminda is also A contemporary, painted iconostasis has also
distinguished by a multitude of incomparable been preserved within the church.
figure reliefs creating a unified system.
Frescoes painted on the church walls date
to the 16th-17th centuries. An 18th-century
iconostasis and a painted altar ciborium have
been preserved in the church.

78 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

1 Chalice
999, Bedia, Abkhazia (West Georgia)
Gold. 14x14x13 cm.
Georgian National Museum Shalva
Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Arts

2 Cross reliquary of Queen Tamar


12th c. Khobi, Samegrelo
(West Georgia) Gold, precious
stones, pearls, niello 7x4 cm.
GNM, Shalva Amiranashvili Museum of
Fine Arts

www.georgia.travel 79
St. Nicholas Church
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

ADJARA
Adjara is one of the historical regions of Georgia, located in the south-western part of the
country, along the Black Sea coast. It borders Turkey and the Shavsheti and Arsiani ranges in
the south. The climate is subtropical, with mild winters and hot summers. On the Black sea
coast, the humidity is much higher than in the highlands. The temperature during the summer
is 22-24° C, in the winter - 4-6 °C.

The administrative center is Batumi, which is an important port on the Black Sea.

The history of Adjara dates back to the Paleolithic era. It was closely connected with Hellenis-
tic, Roman, Byzantine cultures and served as a sea port for all of Georgia.

Adjara was part of the Kingdom of Colchis (8th c. BC) and of the West Georgian Kingdom –
Lazika. In the 9th century AD it became a part of the Kingdom of Tao-Klarjeti and at the end of
the 10th century, a part of the United Georgian State. At the end of the 15th century, after the
disintegration of the Georgian State, it fell under the control of the Gurieli princes. In 1547 it
was conquered by the Ottoman Turks, resulting in a part of the population adopting the Mus-
lim faith. In the 19th century, the Adjara region became a part of the Russian Empire. In 1921 it
became a part of the Soviet Union, and in 1991 – an autonomous republic in the independent
state of Georgia.

According to historical sources (Chronicles of Kartli) Adjara was the first region of Georgia
where Christianity was preached by the Holy Apostles, namely St. Andrew the First-Called, St.
Simeon the Canaanite and St. Matthias. They were sent to Georgia by the Virgin, who was cho-
sen to be a patron saint of the country. According to the tradition, St. Matthias died in Adjara
and was buried in the Gonio Aphsaros Fortress.

The Churches of St. Nicholas and St. Mary in Batumi, as well as Skhalta Church and Gonio
Fortress are of outstanding architectural significance. The wall painting of Skhalta Church is an
important work of medieval Georgian mural art.

www.georgia.travel 81
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Batumi Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin


St. Nicholas Church

ST. NICHOLAS CHURCH The three-nave basilica was built in the


Pseudo-Gothic style. The interior of
The Greek Orthodox Church of St. Nicholas the construction is decorated with wall
is located in a historic area of the city (20, paintings on Biblical themes. The exterior
King Parnavaz St). The domed church with is decorated with stained glass, and bronze
a bell-tower on the west side and a large, statues of St. Andrew the Apostle and St.
protruding apse on the east was built at Nino, Illuminators of Georgia.
the request of the local Greeks in 1865-
1871. With its exterior forms and interior This structure represents one of the most
artistic rendering, it divulges close links to remarkable buildings in the city.
monuments of Byzantine architecture. The
interior wall painting was executed in 2002. The church has been owned by the Georgian
Today the church is owned by the Georgian Orthodox Church since 1989. Nowadays, it is
Orthodox Church. the main cathedral of the Batumi and Lazeti
Diocese.
Batumi Cathedral of the Nativity of the Virgin
Originally designed for the Catholic SKHALTA MONASTERY
community, Batumi Cathedral (53, Dimitri
Tavdadebuli St / 25, I. Chavchavadze Ave.) Located in the village of Kinchauri (the
was constructed in 1898-1902 through Municipality of Khulo), a single-nave Church
the donations of a well-known Georgian of the Virgin Mary at Skhalta Monastery
oil producer and Maecenas Stephane was constructed in the middle of the 13th
Zubalashvili. century at the site of a 4th c. Christian shrine.
The visitor’s attention is attracted by its

82 www.georgia.travel
Skhalta Monastery ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

wide protruding apse and large porches on the myth of the Argonauts.
the south and north sides. The interior of
the church is decorated with the so-called Built with blocks of ashlar stones, the fortress
Palaeologan-style of wall painting, executed has survived in nearly the same condition as
at the turn of the 14th -15th centuries. it used to appear originally. Having massive
cubic dimensions, the nowadays 5 m high
Apart from the main church, there is a small wall (measurements: 245 x195 m) encircles
chapel built on the ruins of a 10th-11th cent. 4.78 hectares of space. It used to have 22
Church and a medieval, vaulted wine cellar, protruding towers and four gates.
still containing dolia buried in the ground.
Apsaros retained its importance till the
GONIO APSAROS Middle Ages (it has been called Gonio since
MUSEUM-RESERVE the 12th cent.). Building layers of the fortress
date back to the time of Emperor Justinian
(Gonio-Kvariati Area, 55, Apsaros St (Batumi (most towers) and the Ottoman dominion.
Municipality)
Historical sources state that St. Matthias the
Apsaros was the largest fortress built by the Apostle, who accompanied St. Andrew the
Romans in the first century A.D. on the east Apostle to preach Christianity in Georgia,
coast of the Black Sea. It represented one of had died in Adjara and was buried in the
the most important centres of the so-called Gonio Fortress. His burial place is marked by
Pontos Limes, a defender of Caucasian a Cross.
borders. Roman and Byzantine authors have
related the history and name of the city to

www.georgia.travel 83
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Gonio Apsaros Museum-Reserve


PETRA - TSIKHISDZIRI
ARCHAEOLOGICAL-
ARCHITECTURAL RESERVE
(the village of Tsikhisdziri (Kobuleti Munici-

Petra-Tsikhisdziri Archaeological-Architectural Reserve


pality)

According to 6th-9th century Byzantine


sources, Petra was a town-fortress of
historic Lazica and an episcopal centre in
the Constantinople Patriarchate. It was built
through the decree of Emperor Justinian
(527-565). Some fortifications, a small,
single-nave church built on the site of a large
three-nave basilica from the Justinian era, an
early Byzantine bath, and other household
constructions have been found on the
territory of the Acropolis.

84 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Forty Sebastian Martyrs


www.georgia.travel 85
First half of 12th c., cloth, temper, 68x52.5 cm.
GNM, Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

ABKHAZIA
Abkhazia (Apkhazeti), the north-western region of Georgia, is located on the shore of the Black
Sea. It borders Russia in the north. It covers an area of about 8,660 sq.km. The climate is sub-
tropical, but differs significantly on the sea coast and in the highlands (the Caucasus range).
The average temperature on the coast is 25° in the summer and 6° in the winter; in the high-
lands - 13° in the summer and -9° in the winter.

Since the Late Bronze Age and throughout the centuries, Abkhazia has been an integral part
of the Georgian state: the Kingdoms of Colchis, Lazika, Abkhazia (Egrisi) including nearly all of
Western Georgia, and the Unified Kingdom of Georgia.

In the 19th century, after the annexation of the Georgian State by the Russian Empire, Abk-
hazia also became a part of Russia, being an autonomous Soviet republic within the borders
of the Georgian Soviet Republic after 1921 and an autonomous republic within the borders
of the independent Georgian Republic since 1991. The capital of the Autonomous Republic
of Abkhazia is Sokhumi. After the collapse of the Soviet Union, Russia sponsored separatist
movements in Abkhazia, provoking armed hostilities. Today, Abkhazia is under occupation
and Russia has direct control over the region.

Abkhazia is one of the regions of Georgia where Christianity was preached by St. Andrew the
Apostle and the Apostle St. Simeon the Canaanite in the first century AD. The latter died here
and was buried in the north part of Abkhazia (Nikopsia), and then reburied in Anakopia (New
Athos).

The cultural heritage of Abkhazia dates back to the earliest stages of human history. Yet the
most outstanding is the architectural and artistic heritage surviving from the Christian period:
The churches at Bichvinta, Anakopia, Ilori, Likhni, Bedia and Mokvi are masterpieces of medi-
eval Georgian architecture. The murals at Likhni are outstanding works of Georgian wall paint-
ing. The Church of St. George of Ilori is one of the most venerated Christian sites in Georgia as
well as the Church of Simeon the Cannanite in New Athos.

86 www.georgia.travel
Likhni Cathedral
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

The Virgin Mary Cathedral at Bichvinta


THE VIRGIN MARY
CATHEDRAL
AT BICHVINTA
Bichvinta Cathedral is one of the most
outstanding examples of Georgian Christian
architecture. It is located in the area of the
great ancient city of Pitiunt. Bichvinta was
the religious centre of Western Georgia
from the 3rd-4th cents. to the mid 14th
cent. Its bishop had participated in the First
Church Council at Nicea (325). According
The Church of St. Simeon the Canaanite

to ecclesiastical tradition, St. Andrew the


Apostle had preached the Christian faith
here. There are ruins of an early Christian
basilica, with floor mosaics from the 4th-5th
centuries on the monastery grounds.

The cruciform, domed Bichvinta Cathedral


was built in the 10th-11th cents. It reveals

88 www.georgia.travel
The Church of St. George of Ilori ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Likhni Cathedral

traits characteristic of both Georgian and together with St. Andrew the Apostle, was
Byzantine architecture. The famous Golden the first to preach Christianity in western
Cross, the Golden Icon of the Virgin, and and southern Georgia, including Abkhazia.
other relics had been kept at Bichvinta It is said that Simon the Canaanite is buried
Cathedral, which are now in the Tbilisi State inside the church.
Museum of Art. The church is at risk of being destroyed due
to illegal excavations.
THE CHURCH OF
ST. SIMEON THE CANAANITE THE CHURCH OF
(SVIMON KANANELI) ST. GEORGE OF ILORI

The church is located in New Athos The 11th century Church of St. George
(ancient Anakopia), on Mount Iveria. Its of Ilori is located 3 km from Ochamchire,
original construction dates back to the in Ilori Village. Built in the beginning of
7th-8th centuries. The present building is the 11th century, it used to be the most
an example of Georgian architectural style prominent Christian and spiritual centre of
from the 9th-10th cents. It is a cruciform, Western Georgia. Ilori Church is a hall-type
domed church with protruding apses on the building with proportions characteristic
east and a narthex on the west. There are of Georgian architecture from the period.
curved images on the facades with Christian The facades of the church have preserved
symbols: fish, a lion, the Cross etc. several reliefs with images of the Saints
(e.g. St. George) and many inscriptions in
According to historical sources, one of the Georgian. The church was severely damaged
apostles of Christ, Simeon the Canaanite, in the 18th c. by Ottoman Turks. At present,

www.georgia.travel 89
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Bedia Monastery Complex


due to the improper and illegal restoration, with other secular and religious figures.
its architectural appearance has suffered
serious alterations (e.g. a Russian-style dome BEDIA MONASTERY
has been added on the roof; the facades are COMPLEX
covered with a thick layer of white paint).
The Bedia Monastery Complex is located 25
LIKHNI CATHEDRAL km from Ochamchire, in the center of Bedia
Village. Presently, the Church of the Virgin
The cruciform, domed Cathedral of the Mary, an episcopal palace and the bell tower
Dormition of the Holy Virgin is located 5 have been preserved there. According to
km from Gudauti, on the seacoast. It is a historical sources, the complex, a symbol of
cruciform, domed building from the 10th c. unity of the Georgian state, was constructed
with three apses on the east, a narthex and through the commission of the first king of
choir gallery in the west part, and arched united Georgia, Bagrat III. The church had
porches on the west, north and south. The been restored in the 13th-14th cents. Most
interior of the church preserves fragments of the murals preserved in the interior of
of mural paintings from the 14th century the church date to the 14th cent. Numerous
and numerous Georgian “Asomtavruli” inscriptions in Georgian Asomtavruli script
(majuscule) inscriptions mentioning the have been preserved on the facades of
Georgian kings Bagrat IV and Giorgi II, along the church. The Bedia Diocese was one of

90 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

Akhali Atoni (New Athos) Monastery


Mokvi Cathedral

the most prominrnt religious and cultural (The Builder).


centres of medieval Georgia. The first king of
the United Georgian Kingdom is buried here. For centuries it was a centre of Georgian
In 2010, under the guise of “rehabilitation” culture, where many manuscripts were
work carried out by the occupational regime, created, with one of them being the famous
unique frescoes, among them the image Mokvi Gospel (1300). It is an outstanding
of Bagrat III and Georgian inscriptions have work of Georgian calligraphic art and book
been painted over and defaced. illumination.

MOKVI CATHEDRAL AKHALI ATONI


(NEW ATHOS) MONASTERY
Mokvi Cathedral, distinguished monument
of Georgian architecture from the 10th c. is The monastery complex is located on
located 15 km from Ochamchire. According Mount Iveria. The Church of St. Panteleimon,
to Georgian historical sources, the cruciform, founded in 1875 by monks from Holy Mount
domed cathedral had been built in 957-967 Athos, Greece, constitutes an integral part of
by King Leon III. He founded an episcopal the complex.
see here. The lofty, spacious interior is
comprised of seven chapels in the south and The 50 meter high bell tower and the five
seven in the north; there is a choir gallery domes of the church have been designed
on three sides of the second floor. Historical and decorated in the Neo-Byzantine style.
sources have also mentioned that the church The interior of the church as well as that
was painted during the reign of the king of the refectory were adorned with wall
of United Georgia, David Aghmashenebeli paintings.

www.georgia.travel 91
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

ST. NINO’S ROUT


Cappadocian maiden, St. Nino came to Georgia in the 4th century and Christianised the
country. She had followed a long way before reaching Mtskheta, the capital of Kartli at that
time. Since 1989, every 1 June, on the day Equal-to-Apostles St. Nino came to Georgia, a
voyage begins, called St. Nino’s Rout. Those willing to undertake it, follow the “traces” of St.
Nino during 42 days and on 12 July, on the feast day of Sts. Peter and Paul, return to Mtskheta.
The same rout can be covered by car far faster, in a day’s time.

St. Nino had entered Georgia from Javakheti and had rested by the Paravani Lake. At present
Poka male monastery of St. Nino is located at the spot, while somewhat afar is Poka nun’s
covenant. St. Nino’s Rout starts with vising these monasteries. At a small distance, one will
see a river issuing from the Paravani Lake; here the maiden had first rested. The next stop is
at Urbnisi. Here St. Nino had stopped after having left behind a hardly manageable road and
stayed at Urbnisi for a month. A small-size church is now erected at the spot. After a month’s
stay, St. Nino had followed crowds of people to Mtskheta, to the feast of Armazi. She had
found shelter in a cave and had destroyed the idols by her prayer. This place is now known as
the Betlemi Cave and is located at the foot of Mount Bagineti, to the south of Svetitskhoveli
cathedral. Having destroyed the idols, St. Nino settled in Mtskheta, in a blackberry bush. This
bush is now in the yard of Samtavro monastery and next to it, a tiny church of St. Nino is
erected. After the Queen and the King, as well as the Mtskheta inhabitants had embraced
Christianity, construction of Svetitskhoveli was begun; miracle, which took place in the
process, is also linked with St. Nino. Last period of her stay in Mtskheta, St. Nino spent at the
foot of the mountain, on top of which, later, the monastery of Holy Cross was built; miracle-
working spring emerged here and is still flowing. Last years of St. Nino’s life were spent in
Kakheti, in Bodbe, where she passed away and is buried in Bodbe monastery. In Kakheti, along
the road leading to Bodbe, near Sagareji, in the Ninotsminda village, a church is erected on the
spot, where, according to the tradition, St. Nino had rested on her way to Bodbe.

Major itinerary of St. Nino’s Rout is as follows:


Javakheti: Paravani Lake, Poka monastery of St. Nino } Shida (Inner) Kartli: Urbnisi } Mtskheta:
Betlemi Cave } Mtskheta: Samtavro nun’s convent } Mtskheta: Svetitskhoveli cathedral }
Mtskheta: monastery of Holy Cross Kakheti: Ninotsminda } Kakheti: Bodbe

92 www.georgia.travel
ORTHODOX PILGRIMAGE TO GEORGIA

ST. APOSTLE ANDREW’S ROUT


Disciple of Jesus Christ, St. Apostle Andrew the First-called was the first to preach Christianity
in Georgia. He came to Georgia with the mission and blessing of All-Holy Virgin, bringing with
him the icon of the Virgin not-made-by-hands. The Apostle first arrived to Khulo, Didajara
village. It was in this village that the icon had first manifested its miracle-working power. St.
Andrew had converted the inhabitants of the village to the Christianity and, according to
the tradition, had also built a church, ruins of which are still preserved in the village. From
Didajara, the Apostle went to Samtskhe. On his way, on the Zekari pass, he had erected a cross
and the spot is now called Iron Cross. Entering Samtskhe, he passed the Andriatsminda (St.
Andrew) village, which had received its name in commemoration of the St. Apostle. Here St.
Andrew had worked several miracles and through his prayers a spring had emerged, which is
called St. Andrew’s spring. The church dedicated to St. Andrew is erected in the village. From
Andriatsminda the Apostle went to Atskuri, which was called Sosangeti at those days. In Atskuri
St. Andrew had worked many miracles with the help of the miracle-working icon of the Virgin,
had destroyed the idols, had resurrected the son of a widow and, finally, Christianised the
village inhabitants. Miracle-working icon of the Virgin was housed at the newly built Atskuri
church, which is why, up to now the icon is called the icon of the Atskuri Virgin. At present it
is kept in Tbilisi, in Sh. Amiranashvili Museum of Fine Art. Atskuri church of the Virgin is now
destroyed, but its remnants were unearthed during the archaeological excavations. After
this, St. Andrew had left Georgia and returning shortly afterwards, together with St. Simeon
Kananites and St. Apostle Matatha, had preached Christianity in Mingrelia. In Mingrelia, the
Apostle had cut down the big oak tree, a sacrificial place of the pagans – Martvili cathedral is
erected on this spot. From Mingrelia St. Andrew went to Svaneti and from there – to Apkhazeti.

The major itinerary of St. Apostle Andrew’s Rout is as follows:


Adjara: Didajara village } Zekari pass (Iron Cross) } Samtskhe: Andriatsminda village } Samtskhe:
Atskuri village } Mingrelia: Martvili cathedral } Svaneti } Apkhazeti

www.georgia.travel 93
PHOTO MATERIALS PROVIDED BY:

National Agency for Cultural Georgian National


Heritage Preservation of Georgia Museum
GEORGIAN NATIONAL TOURISM ADMINISTRATION
4 Sanapiro str, 0105, Tbilisi, Georgia
Tel: +995 32 2 43 69 99
Fax: +995 32 2 43 60 85
E-mail: info@gnta.ge
www.georgia.travel
www.gnta.ge

2017
Georgian
saqarTvelos National Tourism
turizmis Administration
erovnuli administracia
www.georgia.travel

You might also like