Time Out Tokyo Magazine Issue 15 Sakuracocktail

In July 2017, a brand-new theater opened in Tokyo’s Alternative Theatre implements state-of-the-art
Yurakucho area. Named Alternative Theatre, this technology, including a fly system and LEDs that cover
state-of-the-art venue will bring exciting performance the walls and ceiling of the interior. No matter where
art to the masses. your seat may be among the 410 available, you will
The main goal of the venue is to create high-quality be treated to exciting performances unique only to
entertainment that appeals to both Japanese locals Alternative Theatre.
and visitors from around the world by providing non-
verbal performances and music.
ACCESS
Hello Tokyo…
Inside
Thirsty? We bet you are after taking a look at the cover of this mag, which features
either a suggestive serving of sake or a seductive sakura cocktail.
That’s right – we’ve gone all out and created two distinct covers for our ultimate
guide to Tokyo nightlife, an intoxicating tour through the capital’s finest
bars, waterfront spots and romantic restaurants. Head straight to page 20 for
everything you need to plan an unforgettable night out in Tokyo, be it on your
July-September 2017 own, in the company of friends, or with that special someone. And if your idea
of a perfect after-dark adventure includes tasting our cover cocktail, well that’s
available at the Tenderly bar in Omori – see tinyurl.com/TOTtenderly for details.
PAGE 20
â
Cooking up a
storm
Meet Tokyo’s most exciting young chefs
PAGE 36
Just add water

Kentaro Imai: the man with grand
designs for communal bathing
PAGE 46
Making a splash Secret Kyoto

How to get wet and Discover a whole new side
wild this summer of the ancient capital
â
PAGE 61 PAGE 66
â FEATURES AND REGULARS

CHEF: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. KYOTO: HIROYUKI SUMI
06 Tokyo Update 10 To Do 16 Courtesy calls 20 One night in Tokyo 36 Eating & Drinking 42 Shopping & Style 46 Art & Culture 50 Music
54 Nightlife 59 Film 61 Sport 64 LGBT 66 Travel & Hotels 70 Getting Around 74 You know you’re in Tokyo when…
Cover Consulting Editor International

koyama@timeout.jp Hiroyuki Sumi Kisa Toyoshima Distribution Managing Director
Art direction: Steve Nakamura Marcus Webb Kaila Imada Kunihiro Miki Administration Satoru Akiba
Photography: Naohiro Tsukada David Woodley
Editors kailaimada@timeout.jp Mari Hiratsuka Momo Ando Creative Solutions Director CEO
Bartender: Yuko Miyazaki Yukako Izumi Noel Penzer
Designers Shiori Kotaki Creative Solutions Akiko Toya
izumi@timeout.jp Yuki Masuko Kirsty Bouwers Mao Kawakami President/Publisher Time Out Digital Time Out Group CEO
Ili Saarinen 4th Floor, 125 Shaftesbury Avenue, Julio Bruno
Time Out Tokyo Inc. 5-9-9-101 Hiroo, Shibuya, Tokyo, 150-0012 Chikako Fukui Satomi Saruwatari Takahiro Takeuchi Hiroyuki Fushitani Founder
ilisaarinen@timeout.jp London,WC2H 8AD
+81 (0)3 5792 5721 www.timeout.com/tokyo Mayumi Hashimoto Staff Photographers Miyuki Miyama Chairman www.timeout.com Tony Elliott
Advertising and general enquiries: info@timeout.jp Mayumi Koyama Staff Writers Keisuke Tanigawa Julia Carvell Hiroshi Hasegawa +44 (0)207 813 3000
5 July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

RELEASE
Tokyo City FAQ
WHAT WHERE IN TOKYO THE
Update NO SMOKE WITHOUT IRE

Tokyo needs to decide whether it wants to stay
nicotine-stained for 2020
Japan may be renowned for its healthy cuisine,
but we sure are behind the international curve
YOU SAID
Here’s what you tweeted
in response...
IS THIS?
With its owl-motif
YEAST
Fermented food is a time-
honoured Japanese tradition.
exterior and very Here are two places putting a
when it comes to one major public health issue: ’70s-inspired interior, modern spin on the waiting game
smoking in public places.
While smoking outside in non-designated
‘The this building was
designed by an
spaces (or while walking) is considered a social
sin, people lighting up indoors without a care in
government architect known
as ‘Japan’s Gaudi’.
the world is common across the nation. For many
visitors to our dear city, these smoking laws feel like
shouldn’t even It houses an office,
apartments and a
the world has been flipped upside down, and with
the Olympics on the way, calls for a complete ban
own anything, dangerously cheap
izakaya where a large
on indoor puffing are growing louder and louder.
A new bill first proposed by the government
let alone a cash highball will set you
back just ¥300. After
in late 2016 would make it mandatory for
restaurants and bars to install separate smoking
cow like Japan a few of those the
already out-there 85 (HACHIGO)
rooms with proper ventilation or go completely
Tobacco’ designs will really When it comes to fermented food this new
PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

smoke-free. However, this draft – even after being look out of this world. shop, part of the Nakameguro Koukashita
watered down – is facing heavy opposition from à To find the answer, visit tinyurl. complex, plays it old school. As the name
several directions, with the partially government- com/totwhereintokyo15 implies, it offers 85 items – including sauces,
owned tobacco company Japan Tobacco and
the restaurant industry leading the resistance
‘Typical sakes and cheeses – all created using
time-honoured preservation techniques.
alongside pro-smoking politicians.
At least the health ministry seems behind the
US-induced Highlights of the 85 are the hard-to-get
varieties of miso, vinegar and soy sauce, all
ban, citing Japan’s feeble attempts to prevent
nonsense – it guaranteed to add pep to the most listless
passive smoking in particular. The World
Health Organisation has labelled the country’s
current efforts ‘among the world’s worst’, with an
should stay the THAT’LL TEACH YOU Three ways to
learn Japanese culture
meal. DIY fermentors can join the ¥1,944
‘My Nuka Service’ monthly plan. This sees
the shop keep nuka (rice bran used for
way it is!’
PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
estimated 15,000 deaths a year due to secondhand pickling) for you in a temperature-controlled
smoke. Whether a ban will eventually help tip the ANALOG room and you, and only you, will be allowed
scales in the right direction remains to be seen – TSUTAYA BOOKS GINZA SIX to touch your box of bran while it ages. Now
we’ll keep holding our breath at our local izakaya Ginza Six opened in April with a fanfare usually reserved for the that’s funky service.
in the meantime.
‘FINALLY’ second coming, but thankfully the high-class department store
has some highlights that just about justify the hype. One of these
à tinyurl.com/tothachigo

is the Tsutaya bookstore, which has a huge selection of books on
TOKYO LOVES...
Nippon culture in both English and Japanese. Once you’ve picked
‘Just ban the your favourite, sit down at the adjacent Starbucks and begin your
history lesson over a frappuccino.
damn smoke’ à tinyurl.com/totginzasix
FLOATING PUMPKINS APP

The recent, immensely popular Yayoi Kusama exhibition at the National Art Center may have DUOLINGO JAPANESE
finished, but there’s still plenty of pumpkin action at the newly opened Ginza Six, where half a
dozen of the contemporary artist’s polka-dotted squashes are hanging from the ceiling.
‘Light at the end One of the most popular language learning apps going, Duolingo
launched its Japanese edition on iOS in late May and on Android in
à tinyurl.com/totginzakusama
of the tunnel mid-June. Primarily targeted at beginner and intermediate learners,
the app teaches you words and phrases in fun, innovative ways, such
NIPPON NO HITOSARA
Bringing out the best in fish through
after decades as showing you the hiragana characters needed to create simple
GINZA SIX: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. PIGEON HEELS: KEIKO OTSUHATA. PPAP: SATORU AKIBA
fermentation: that’s the driving idea behind

PIKOTARO words rather than teaching you the entire alphabet first. It definitely this new Marunouchi restaurant. Using
Everyone’s favourite Japanese viral hit hero, the PPAP mastermind has managed to extend
his popularity lifespan beyond apples, pens and pineapples in song form – first receiving a
of hell!’ makes you feel as if you’re getting immediate, tangible results –
perfect if you’re only here for a short time.
local catches and fermented seasonings
from ports across the country, Nippon no
‘Pineapple Appreciation Award’ from Dole and then going on to promote LED lights with Tokyo à www.duolingo.com/courses Hitosara has conjured up some inventive
governor Yuriko Koike. combinations: definitely try the sashimi with
à tinyurl.com/totpikotaro VIDEO Shiboritate kiage shoyu – freshly pressed,
TOHOKU&TOKYO 360 VIDEOS unpasteurised and unfiltered soy sauce
The &Tokyo brand was developed by the metro government to boost that’s been fermented but not strained. Soy
PIGEON HEELS tourism in Tokyo and beyond, and their latest range of videos should sauce (and the fish, of course) doesn’t get
The idea for ‘pigeon heels’ spontaneously popped up in designer Keiko Otsuhata’s mind one do the trick. These 360-degree clips are taken in places across Tokyo much fresher than this. Their lunch sets are
day, and as you do, she immediately set out to create a pair of pigeon-like shoes. The felt and Tohoku, and divided by season and theme (food, fireworks and very good value too, although you might have
creations turned out rather life-like, and when she took her pins out for a stroll in Ueno Park much more). Think a virtual-reality travel experience which shows to get there early to grab one of the ¥1,000
to make friends with some of the living birds, the video of her shoes cooing the feathered some underappreciated sides of Japan: great to inspire you to leave teishoku (set meals): two of the four sets are
residents became a viral sensation. the hotel room/office/izakaya and get out there. only served to ten customers daily.
à tinyurl.com/pigeonheels à www.tohokuandtokyo.org/virtualtour à tinyurl.com/totnipponnohitosara
Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017 6 7 July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo
TOKYO UPDATE
HOW DO KEEPING
LOCAL YOU WANT CITY IT COOL
LEGENDS THAT? DISPATCHES How to not succumb to the
sweltering summer heat
Three Tokyo places offering A FORGETTABLE MEAL WATERMELON

truly customisable cuisine With Japanese society greying at a rapid UMBRELLAS
pace, the number of people living with Whether it’s to stay
dementia is hitting new records every year. dry in rainy season
Although this obviously causes all sorts of or to dodge the
social issues, not everyone is succumbing to rays during the
the doom and gloom often associated with hot summer
PHOTO: KISA TOYOSHIMA

the theme. Take a recent, rather special pop- months, Tokyoites
up eatery in Toyosu. Named ‘The Restaurant are rarely seen
of Order Mistakes’, it was run by employees without an
with dementia, meaning that the chances umbrella. This
THE COUNTER ROPPONGI of your order being forgotten or mixed up watermelon-decorated
Santa Monica-born chain The Counter were quite high. One customer reported specimen caught our eye and
boasts that it’s made over a million custom having their hamburger order turned into a has been popping up on the streets, bringing
burgers since its founding in 2003 and is set of gyoza, but knowing that the staff had a little splash of colour and fun to everyone’s
now adding to that tally with its first Japan dementia, they noted that they left with a day. Get yours at 3coins stores across the
outlet. The ordering system here is a long, deeper understanding of what it meant to city, where a kids’ version (not as small as it
long list of choices: you’re able to pick have the disease and how to deal with it. sounds) retails for a mere ¥300 (plus tax).
exactly what type of patty, cheese, sauce The restaurant was opened by a group of
IMAGE FOR ILLUSTRATIVE PURPOSES ONLY

à www.3coins.jp
and topping you’d like, meaning there are organisations, including the host, Maggie’s
over 312,120 different combinations. Just Tokyo, a support centre for those affected by
don’t take anyone indecisive. cancer. Although this pop-up only lasted for SHARI KAKIGORI
à tinyurl.com/totcounterroppongi one weekend in June, another edition is in It sounds so simple – shaved ice topped
the works for September 21, which is World with syrup – but kakigori truly is a lifesaver on
Alzheimer’s Day. Don’t forget... those days when a bottle of water just won’t
à maggiestokyo.org cut it. New flavours (tiramisu or caramel,
#15:
anyone?) and trends (Taiwanese-style with
loads of fruit) have been popping up in
recent years, but this year’s innovation prize
has to go to Kurazushi, a cheap-
Shotaro Kamijo,
as-chips conveyor-belt sushi
chain that decided to
create a version flavoured
BAR AMARENA with shari (vinegared sushi
the travelling bartender

At this ‘customised’ Aoyama restaurant, rice). Priced at ¥230, it’s

you can choose virtually everything available at Kurazushi
yourself, from the ingredients to be used for outlets across the country
your meal to its size and even the cooking until September 14. A bit
method employed. They display their daily too much for you? They offer
changing, colourful ingredients in a glass mango, matcha-azuki and
IF YOU EVER HAPPEN to spot a lightly worn, only through poetic entries on his Twitter feed. case so you can see exactly what you’re strawberry options too.
white cart stacked full of alcohol on your Although finding Twillo can be devilishly paying for, and the female chefs – who are à www.kura-corpo.co.jp
FIREWORKS: COURTESY OF SUMIDA WARD.

nightly adventures, be sure to stop the person difficult, especially if you don’t read all very energetic – make it your way.
ASE-WAKI SHEETS: KISA TOYOSHIMA

pushing it for a drink. In a city full of curious Japanese, it’s absolutely worth the trouble. à tinyurl.com/totbaramarena
watering holes, bar-on-the-go Twillo has to Kamijo serves up a snappy selection of beer, ASE-WAKI SHEETS AND PADS
be one of the most eccentric. Mixing drinks wine, spirits, cocktails and Cuban cigars. The Literally ‘armpit sweat sheets’ (or pads),
in candlelight and pouring them into magic of Twillo is in its power to turn a piece these little gems may not keep you cool per
Baccarat glasses is Shotaro Kamijo, who has of any old city street into a party place by se, but at least they’ll make you look the
been roaming Tokyo’s streets with his cart drawing in passers-by from all walks of life for part. If you’re using a sheet, cut a bit to the
since 2006. new and unlikely encounters. correct size and stick it right onto your
After stints as a banker and a secretary Although pushing the cart around FIERY SKIES armpit; if a pad, stick one on your
for the Japanese Diet (parliament), Kamijo unfamiliar neighbourhoods and starting Japan doesn’t do daylight saving time, the largest among the festivals, the Tokyo clothing, right where your armpit
decided to go into the mobile boozing out fresh every night can feel tough at times, preferring to start with a 4am sunrise Bay Fireworks, was cancelled last year goes. Heat- and humidity-
business after looking for a job that would the man behind Twillo says he loves what he rather than end with a 10pm sunset. and won’t be returning this year either. induced body fluids will be kept
give him three things: opportunities for self- does. ‘Meeting a diverse cast of customers PULP DELI & CAFÉ While this can be troubling for those Another favourite, Jingu Gaien, barely fully in check this way, although
realisation, freedom and a living wage. makes it all worth it,’ Kamijo assures us. Keep A café where you can customise your meal with thin curtains, it does make for some escaped the same fate and is back on track body odour prevention is not
At first, he camped out at the gingko tree- your eyes open after dark and you just might to your liking, with a heavy emphasis of fantastic firework displays over the summer. for August 20. Most cracker parties out in included. Ase-waki sheets can
lined street in front of Meiji Jingu Gaien park, find yourself stumbling upon his outlandish fresh veg and vegan items. However you put The season usually lasts from July to late the ’burbs, in addition to the venerable be found in most drugstores.
365 nights a year, come rain or shine. After operation. your bento box together, if the sun’s out get August, but the problem at the moment is Sumida River Fireworks, seem a-go
taking a two-year break to explore running for it to go: the neighbouring park is a lovely that the construction for the Olympics is at least. Keep your eyes on our
parliament, Kamijo now travels across the city lunch spot. going on at the exact places usually used website for more information and
à Find Twillo on Twitter @Twillo0
every night, publicising his current location à tinyurl.com/totpulpdeli to set off fireworks. This meant one of sudden cancellations.
TO
TO DO
DO
FILM
HENTAI ANIMATION NIGHT
Get a taste of some seriously
strange animated films at the
annual Hentai Anime Night, a
celebration of depravity, twisted
imaginations and (probably)
tentacles. Mainly short flicks
from both Japan and abroad are
TIMEOUT.COM/TOKYO Fuji Rock Festival shown over two weeks – a lineup
that should manage to mess up
MUSIC Gorillaz headline, while The XX, the mind of anyone not familiar
What’s on in town July-September 2017 CORNELIUS Lorde, Major Lazer, Sampha and with this extreme side of Japanese
DON’T Occasionally referred to as the Queens of the Stone Age, who last visual culture.
MISS ‘Japanese Beck’, Keigo ‘Cornelius’ played Fuji Rock back in 2002, àAug 12-25. Human Trust Cinema Shibuya, Cocoti
Oyamada has been laying low in should prove to be crowd-pleasers THINGS TO DO
Things to do
7-8F, 1-23-16 Shibuya, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/
recent years. But 2016 saw his solo as well. GEINO YAMASHIROGUMI KECAK TOThentaifilm. ¥1,500.
activities pick up speed, with a US àJul 28-30. Naeba Ski Resort, 202 Mikuni, Yuzawa, MATSURI
Earth Garden tour preceding the announcement
of ‘Mellow Waves’ – his first album
Minami-Uonuma, Niigata. tinyurl.com/TOTfujirock17.
Three days ¥43,000, two days ¥36,000, one day
Mixing music, dance and drama,
kecak is a Balinese invention
MUSIC
SUMMER SONIC 2017
Summer in ten years, which was released in
June and is the reason for this pair
¥19,000. that was developed in the 1930s.
Tokyoites can experience this
Held in the soulless concrete
expanses of Chiba’s QVC Marine
Every three months Tokyo’s of hometown gigs. THINGS TO DO alchemedic artform up close when Field and Makuhari Messe, a
SUMIDA RIVER FIREWORKS FESTIVAL the Geino Yamashirogumi troupe, half-hour train ride from Tokyo
ecologists, horticulturists and àJul 11-12. Liquidroom, 3-16-6 Higashi, Shibuya.
tinyurl.com/TOTcornelius. ¥6,800. Japan’s oldest recorded fireworks among the best kecak gangs going, Station, Summer Sonic makes up
hippies descend on Yoyogi Park festival dates back to 1733, when comes to town. Balinese choral in convenience for what it lacks
for the quarterly Earth Garden. FILM it was first staged as part of a dancing with a gamelan ensemble, in atmosphere. This year’s lineup
The summer edition will feature QUALITE FANTASTIC! CINEMA ceremony to pray for the victims deer dances, jegog (a form of is as eclectic as ever, with the Foo
COLLECTION 2017 of a severe famine that struck the traditional music played on big Fighters and Calvin Harris set to
the usual plethora of organic- Shinjuku’s Cinema Qualite holds previous year. Today, it’s by far bamboo instruments) and more rub shoulders with bubblegum-
minded stalls, food booths and its annual festival in summer, the largest display in the capital – will be combined into a merry mix punk boys 5 Seconds of Summer,
workshops, with the addition highlighting an international cast this year’s will involve more than of shows and workshops. electro-dance queen Charli
of indie flicks, including a few 22,000 fireworks – and regularly àAug 2-6. Shinjuku Mitsui Building 55Hiroba, 2-1-1 XCX and, yes, Pikotaro of Pen-
of a night-time flea market and previously unreleased in Japan. draws close to a million spectators. Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTkecak. Free. Pineapple-Apple-Pen fame.
live music from acts including Jim Jarmusch’s ‘Gimme Danger’, àJul 29. Sumida Park, Taito and Sumida. tinyurl.com/ àAug 19-20. 2-1 Nakase, Mihama, Chiba. tinyurl.
nu-jazz outfit Lotus Land, indie a probing look at the emergence TOTsumida17. Free. THINGS TO DO com/TOTsummersonic17. Two days ¥30,500, one
of Iggy Pop’s Stooges, is well worth ASAGAYA BALI DANCE FESTIVAL
poppers Nonburari, rapper catching, as are biographical Asagaya’s annual Bali festival
day ¥16,500.
TKda Kurobuchi and dub- documentary ‘De Palma’ and AUGUST supplies two evenings of free
dancehall foursome Nego. Russian war drama ‘Battalion’. gamelan and traditional Indonesian
àJul 1-2. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/
Note that all films are screened dance. Bonus marks to anyone who
TOTearthsummer. Free entry. in their original language with can explain exactly why there’s a
Japanese subtitles. Balinese festival held in Asagaya
àJul 15-Aug 18. Nowa Bldg B1F, 3-37-12 every year, but it sounds like a pretty
Shinjuku, Shinjuku. tinyurl.com/TOTqualite2017. tempting proposition either way.
¥1,500/¥1,000 (prices vary by film). All that dancing is bound to make
garden which is spread out on one you hungry, so don’t forget to check
JULY of the nearby lawns. THINGS TO DO out the many food stalls selling
àJul 1-Sep 10. 4015-1 Yanokuchi, Inagi. tinyurl.com/ SUMOMO MATSURI Indonesian eats and beer.
TOTpoolwai1. Pool entrance ¥3,200, high school and According to legend, 11th-century àAug 5-6. Asagaya Shinmeiguu Shrine, 1-25-5
junior high students ¥2,500, younger children ¥2,100. warlord Minamoto no Yoriyoshi Asagaya-Kita, Suginami. tinyurl.com/TOTasabali.
One-day pass (includes unlimited rides at the theme and his son Yoshiie stopped to pray Free entry.
park and pool entrance) ¥6,000/¥4,800/¥4,400. for victory in an ongoing war at
THINGS TO DO this Fuchu shrine. Their wish was MUSIC
FILM ECO EDO NIHONBASHI ART granted, and the Sumomo (named WORLD HAPPINESS
ALAIN DELON PROGRAMME AQUARIUM after the plum that Yoriyoshi is The family-friendly World
In the ’60s and ’70s, French Deploying a range of lighting said to have offered to the gods) Happiness is one of those rare
charmer Alain Delon was one of THINGS TO DO tricks, projection mapping and festival began. You’ll be able to try THEATRE summer music festivals going THINGS TO DO
the most popular actors in Japan, SHITAMACHI TANABATA MATSURI traditional Japanese motifs, not the plums for yourself at the many WA! WONDER JAPAN EXPERIENCE on right here in Tokyo. The play- ASAKUSA SAMBA CARNIVAL
where the recent announcement Asakusa’s Kappabashi – the famed to mention thousands of live food stalls set up on the grounds. Argentinian performance troupe it-safe lineup is usually veteran- More than 20 teams of elaborately
of his upcoming retirement made pilgrimage site for Tokyo chefs goldfish, self-proclaimed ‘art àJul 20. Okunitama Shrine, 3-1 Miyamachi, Fuchu. Fuerza Bruta has captivated heavy (think Yukihiro Takahashi attired dancers flood the streets of
THINGS TO DO national headlines. Bunkamura’s looking to kit out their kitchens – is aquarium producer’ Hidetomo tinyurl.com/TOTsumomo. Free entry. audiences in over 30 countries and Denki Groove), but this year’s Asakusa for this samba carnival,
POOL WAI Le Cinéma looks back at Delon’s festooned with vibrantly coloured Kimura’s annual exhibition is back and now it’s Japan’s turn with a edition also features young blood the largest in Japan. The carnival is
Yomiuri Land’s summer-only career with this five-film streamers and decorations during again with an eclectic combo of MUSIC Nippon-themed spectacle. The in the form of glitchy pop starlet now one of Tokyo’s more popular
outdoor pool area is opening programme, which consists of ‘The this annual summer festival. The stylised Edo culture and modern- FUJI ROCK FESTIVAL ’17 standing-only audience can expect Zombie-Chang and guitarist summer events, drawing half
again, so get ready to enjoy a total Last Adventure’, ‘Any Number best time to visit the Shitamachi day technology. Go after 7pm for The biggest and most beautiful of a visually impressive dance-rave Yuri Miyauchi. There’s a special a million spectators to watch
of five pools, several water slides Can Win’, ‘La Piscine’, ‘Swann in Tanabata Matsuri is at the good cocktails, great tunes and an Japan’s summer music festivals, thrill ride that merges striking discount for parents with children the performers shake their tail
and lots of fun events. Chill at the Love’ and Luchino Visconti’s ‘The weekend, when local businesses even better atmosphere. Fuji Rock once again returns imagery with techno music and of elementary-school age or feathers to the Brazilian beat as
Anpanman pool before heading Leopard’. All films will be subtitled put out stalls and hold parades and àJul 7-Sep 24. Nihonbashi Mitsui Hall, 5F Coredo to Niigata prefecture’s Naeba, aerial showboating. younger. they work their way around the
over to the curvy slides and the into Japanese. street performances. Muromachi, 2-2-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo. welcoming a beefy lineup of both àAug 1-Sep 30. Stellar Ball (Shinagawa Prince àAug 6. Kasai Rinkai Park, 6-2 Rinkaicho, Edogawa. neighbourhood.
tidal joys of the wave pool. Adults àJul 1-14. Bunkamura 6F, 2-24-1 Dogenzaka, Shibuya. àJul 6-10. Kappabashi-dori, Nishi-Asakusa and tinyurl.com/TOTecoedo2017. ¥1,000, children aged international superstars and local Hotel), 4-10-30 Takanawa, Minato. tinyurl.com/ tinyurl.com/TOTworldhappy. ¥10,800, children aged àAug 26. Central Asakusa. tinyurl.com/
will also enjoy the night-time beer tinyurl.com/TOTdelon. ¥1,500, students ¥1,100. Matsugaya, Taito. tinyurl.com/TOTshitamachitana. Free. 12 or under ¥600. heroes. Björk, Aphex Twin and TOTfuerza. ¥7,600. 6-12 ¥1,500. TOTasakusasamba. Free.
Promotional feature
TO DO
laptop-busting antics of superstar

DJs including Alesso, Kygo, The
FIVE REASONS TO CHECK OUT THE
YOKOHAMA
Chainsmokers and Steve Aoki,
plus live performances by Empire
of the Sun, Pendulum and Porter
Robinson.
TRIENNALE
àSep 16-18. Symbol Promenade Park, Koto. tinyurl.
com/TOTultra17. Three days ¥39,000, one day
¥13,000.
A HIGHLIGHT AMONG Japan’s art festivals, the Yokohama Triennale

returns for its sixth edition this August and will again centre on the
Yokohama Museum of Art and its immediate surrounds. Big-name
international participants include Ai Weiwei, Maurizio Cattelan and
Olafur Eliasson, while other artists will be highlighting the physical
Maurizio CATTELAN, Spermini, 1997, Photo: Attilio Maranzano Courtesy: Maurizio Cattelan’s Archive and Perrotin gallery
location of the Triennale by creating artworks themed on figures and
events from the history of Yokohama.
THINGS TO DO
NEZU SHRINE FESTIVAL
1 Ai Weiwei’s mega-sculptures
Chinese artist Ai Weiwei turns everything from life jackets to bits of
furniture into giant sculptures that play on the themes of construction
and destruction. The superstar activist’s recent works that draw heavily on
the global refugee crisis will be featured in the Triennale.
A centuries-old highlight at a
shrine that itself dates back to 1706,
this downtown classic isn’t that
different from your usual matsuri
(traditional festival) – think dance
and music, food stalls and plenty
2 Artworks by one of Italy’s greatest satirists
Italian photography mag ‘Toiletpaper’ is one of the most surreal
publications of its kind, and the offbeat visual landscape it plays with
is echoed in co-founder Maurizio Cattelan’s provocative sculptures and
artworks. Tough subjects and striking visuals dot Cattelan’s CV, from an
of sweaty folks in ‘happi’ coats – installation featuring Pope John Paul II struck by a meteorite in Paris to a
but always attracts an energetic solid gold toilet in New York’s Guggenheim. We can’t wait to see what the art
Super Yosakoi crowd which engulfs the entire, world’s resident prankster brings to Yokohama.
otherwise quaint and unassuming,
THINGS TO DO
SUPER YOSAKOI FESTIVAL 2017
The original yosakoi dance started
life in Kochi in 1954, where it was
intended to help revitalise the
SEPTEMBER
MUSIC
TOKYO JAZZ FESTIVAL
to enjoy laidback tunes courtesy
of domestic indie favourites
including Hanaregumi, Asako
Toki, Glim Spanky and Trio Ohashi
at a traditional temple down in the
neighbourhood.
àSep 16-17. Nezu Shrine, 1-28-9 Nezu, Bunkyo.
tinyurl.com/TOTnezufest. Free.
THINGS TO DO
3 It’s in Japan’s most cosmopolitan city
In the mid-1800s, when Japan opened up to the rest of the world after
250 years of seclusion, the city of Yokohama was the first place to
bear the fruit of foreign influence. By adopting an open-door policy to both
culture and trade back then, the city was soon the most cosmopolitan place 5 Not many international art
There will be a giant
monster, too
struggling post-war economy, and Japan’s biggest jazz festival always southern suburbs. NAMASTE INDIA in Japan, and remains the country’s cultural melting pot. It’s fitting, then, festivals can boast an appearance
Tokyo’s own Super Yosakoi festival features a highly diverse lineup of àSep 1-3. 1-1-1 Ikegami, Ota. tinyurl.com/ The nation’s biggest Indian that the Triennale takes place at venues such as the Yokohama Red Brick by an overgrown radioactive lizard,
has been going for over a decade artists and venues, with concerts TOTslowlive17. Three days ¥18,500, two days festival returns to Yoyogi Park Warehouse, a symbol of the city’s international history. but it seems like the Yokohama
now. The event sees 100-odd teams at NHK Hall complemented by with traditional music and Triennale is doing things differently.
4
¥13,400, one day ¥8,000 (Sep 1 ¥6,800).
of brightly attired dancers trying to more intimate shows at WWW in other performances, including It’s one of Japan’s most influential art festivals Take the rubble-shaped creation
outdo each other as they strut their Shibuya plus free gigs held along MUSIC a healthy smattering of dances International art showcases have become all the rage in Japan over the complete with a Godzilla-style eye,
stuff to the rhythm of the ‘naruko’ – Yoyogi Park’s Keyaki Namiki ULTRA JAPAN 2017 to keep the kids entertained. past few years, with dozens of festivals taking place every year around set to stare ominously at visitors in
a type of clapper that the people of street. This year’s headliners The first three Tokyo versions You can also try wearing a sari, the country. But most of these still look rather green when compared to the the basement of the 100-year-old
Kochi originally used to scare birds include Chick Corea, Al Di Meola, of Miami-born EDM spectacle relax with yoga, enter raffles and Yokohama Triennale, which has been going since 2001 and again invites Yokohama Port Opening Memorial
away from their fields. Peter Erskine and Gonzalo Ultra have all been smashing peruse the food booths set up around 40 internationally renowned contributors to take part. Hall throughout the festival.
AI Weiwei, Reframe, 2016, Exhibition view at Palazzo
Strozzi, Photo: Alessandro Moggi ©Ai Weiwei Studio
àAug 26-27. Omotesando, Meiji Jingu and Yoyogi Rubalcaba. successes and this fourth edition by some of Tokyo’s top Indian
Park. tinyurl.com/TOTsuperyosakoi. Free. àSep 1-3. NHK Hall, WWW, WWW X, Yoyogi Park. looks set to follow suit. Revellers eateries.
tinyurl.com/TOTjazz17. NHK Hall concerts from dressed in neon and frills will be àSep 23-24. 2-1 Yoyogi Kamizonocho, Shibuya.
MUSIC ¥3,800, WWW gigs ¥3,800, outdoor gigs free. descending on Odaiba to enjoy the tinyurl.com/TOTnamaste. Free entry.
SUKIYAKI TOKYO
Taking place in Toyama prefecture
every year, Japan’s most
prestigious world music festival
Sukiyaki Meets the World has
been going strong since 1991. This
smaller-scale Tokyo version of the
fest is held at Shibuya’s WWW and
this year will feature appearances
by the likes of Mauritanian harp
player Noura Mint Seymali, MUSIC
dreamy indie folk artist Klô Pelgag SLOW LIVE ’17
from Québec and ’Turkey’s Björk’, One of summer’s most popular
Gaye Su Akyol. music festivals, Ikegami
àAug 29-30. WWW and WWW X, Rise Bldg, 13-17 Honmonji’s annual Slow Music
Udagawacho, Shibuya. tinyurl.com/TOTsukiyaki17. Slow Live returns for the 14th
Two days ¥8,500, one day ¥5,000. year in a row. This is your chance
Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017 12

THE INFOGRAPHIC
TRANSCREATING TOKYO
Drinking by
numbers How to watch
Ili Saarinen reveals the statistics behind the city’s booze scene
kabuki
Takeo Funabiki lays out a beginner’s guide to the traditional art form
15.4 63% 191,000

CONSTANTLY DRAWING SELL-
OUT crowds, kabuki theatre has
emerged strong from its slump in
the latter half of the 20th century
and is quickly becoming an
essential experience for visitors
That’s how many hangover days per year us Almost two thirds of us think there’s Almost 200,000 people work in Tokyo’s to Tokyo. But how do you go about
Tokyoites admitted to in Time Out’s recent nothing wrong with enjoying a tipple over boozing business – a figure that adds up to catching a show, and what’s the
worldwide City Index Survey – lunch. That’s trailing only Barcelona (69%), just over six employees per establishment, best way to get tickets? Here’s a
we’re clearly hardier than the drinkers Sydney (68%) and Mexico City (68%). or the total population of Salt Lake City, veteran watcher’s guide for all you
of Sydney and London, who claimed Hopefully the city’s bus drivers, lifeguards Utah, where bars are, uh, less prevalent. first-timers out there.
24.5 and 23.3 respectively. and operators of heavy machinery are in
the remaining 37%. WHERE SHOULD I GO?
Nothing beats the Kabukiza
Theatre in Higashi-Ginza. Don’t
23 26% 2
think I’m getting paid by the
promoter – this simply is the best
place for first-time viewers.
WHAT SHOULD I WATCH?

Before you do anything else,
take a look at the Kabukiza’s
Our City Index also revealed we visit a The most baffling number in our survey – The average number of hours a
website. Given the choice between
bar or pub only 23 times a year, or less only 26 percent of Tokyoites agree with ‘nomihodai’ (all-you-can-drink) deal
performances this month, next
than once every two weeks. Really? the claim that ‘There are always great lasts at izakayas, pubs and even hotels
month and the month after that,
That’s far behind Paris with 44, or bars to go to in the city’. Flip on over to (see page 56) in Tokyo. Being allowed to
I’d look at the ones furthest down
even Chicago with 39. A poll in our page 20 and prepare to have your eyes literally drink as much as you can handle
the line. Tickets have not gone
office would result in very different opened and your world rocked. over 120 minutes can sound anywhere
on sale for these yet, so you’ll
numbers, but let’s not go there now. from too good to be true to flat out deadly,
have a better chance of getting
depending on your perspective,
good seats. Telling the difference between varying by category – always try Even if you don’t understand the
but it’s a common arrangement at
There are both daytime and different types of performances picking a seat as close as possible lines at times or can’t make out
watering holes throughout Japan.
night-time performances, but can be a challenge, so make sure to the stage. One-act plays are the lyrics in the accompaniment,
if time isn’t an issue, just choose to look the details up online good for tourists who only want to don’t worry about it. Even
according to the programme or beforehand. ‘experience’ kabuki, but I wouldn’t experienced watchers don’t
actors you prefer. Being even recommend them to first-timers grasp every tiny detail. Anyway,
slightly familiar with the play or HOW DO I BUY TICKETS? interested in the genre. as long as you’re watching,
actors you’re about to see helps Try online, again. The same you can generally understand
38% 30,887 ¥7,500

make the classics more accessible. goes for popular movies, but I WHAT ELSE SHOULD I KNOW? what’s happening on stage.
It’s fun to watch someone you’re don’t recommend heading over Once at the Kabukiza for your You’ll be impressed by the rapid
familiar with from magazines or expecting to get tickets on the performance, consider renting movements of the actors, and
TV perform in the flesh. door. That’s because where you sit an audio guide. This includes fascinated by the costumes and
If the show you’ve picked will have a significant impact on real-time explanations on mechanisms. Beyond this, don’t
has a lineup of three or four how enjoyable the show will be. A what’s happening on stage – not ask too much of yourself: the key
performances, make sure to watch kabuki theatre is much larger than recorded, but ‘live commentary’ is to just clear your mind and take
At least when Tokyoites do go out, According to government data from 2014, According to your City Index responses,
one classics programme and one a cinema, meaning that the actors by a professional somewhere it all in.
we stay out. The amount of us who that’s the total amount of bars, pubs and that’s the cost of a typical night out
dance programme. The classics will appear small and far away, and in the theatre. The printed
engage in the occasional all-nighter is – clubs in Tokyo. Hard to believe? Hey, in Tokyo. Doesn’t even sound too
may be difficult to understand, you won’t be able to rely on close- programme, meanwhile, is a bit
according to our survey – a global high. Shinjuku’s Golden Gai alone has over 270, steep in light of what ‘a typical night
but watching kabuki while trying ups like at the movies or big-screen pricey and hardly necessary, but
Hey, what else are you going to do after while Ginza has around 350. out’ entails: drinks at the bar, clubbing, à Check out the Kabukiza
to avoid these is pointless, and the replays like at a baseball game. makes for a nice souvenir to bring
missing your last train home? Not sleep karaoke and a monster bowl of Theatre’s website at kabuki-bito.jp/
dances are fun to watch even if you There are three categories of back home.
at McDonalds, that’s for sure. ramen to fuel your trek home. theaters/kabukiza.
don’t understand what’s going on. tickets, with prices obviously All that’s left now is to watch.
Courtesy
Congratulations, you’ve been
invited to a Japanese wedding!
Now, after the first giddiness
has receded, it’s time to think
calls
about how the hell you’re
actually going to get through
it without making a culturally
insensitive fool of yourself.
Luckily, we’re here to help.
Kirsty Bouwers
ILLUSTRATION BY BUNNY BISSOUX

DON’T: FORGET TO RSVP
(WHETHER YOU’RE GOING OR NOT)
pedicure. Men, no white suits (that’s for the
groom) nor black ties. And for either sex, the
you and abject poverty.
Stay strong,
Kumamoto
A Japanese ‘hiroen’, a fancy wedding universal rule holds true: whatever you do, DO: LOOK UNDER YOUR SEAT
ceremony often held at an upscale hotel’s please don’t try to outdress the bride. The upside of having to pay for a wedding is
banquet room, is a unique experience, so that it comes with a lot of goodies. And not
move heaven and earth to be there. Either way DON’T: FORGET TO PAY (OR PICK THE WRONG for the newlyweds, but for you, the humble
do not forget to send back the slip that came ENVELOPE) guest. When the hiroen starts clearing
with the invitation card, filled in properly to Like anywhere in the world, weddings in out and everyone starts heading home or
show whether or not you will be attending. Japan cost money. A lot of money. Partially as to the afterparty, be sure to grab the bag
Circle 出席 (‘shusseki’) if you’re coming or 欠席 a way to make up for this, guests are expected located under your seat; it’s not a life vest,
(‘kesseki’) if you, for some inexplicable reason, (read: required) to ‘donate’ money, known but a ‘hikidemono’, a well-stocked goodie Two powerful earthquakes hit Kyushu’s Kumamoto
will not be able to make it – presumably you are as ‘goshugi’, when attending. ¥30,000 per bag. Contents can range from expensive prefecture on April 14 and 16, killing at least 49, injuring
in prison or trapped under something heavy. person for friends and coworkers is the going confectionery to tableware and even a gift
rate these days in big cities. For a boss or catalogue (letting you pick out something you thousands and forcing many local residents to abandon
DO: GO ALL ’80S PROM DRESS senior colleague, it’s more like ¥50,000. The actually want). their homes. Historic Kumamoto Castle also suffered
Yay, slinky cocktail dress time! Think again. notes should be ¥10,000 bills which can’t extensive damage. The recovery process is well on its way,
There’s an unspoken dress code that applies be evenly split (so ¥30k is fine, ¥20k a no no) DON’T: PARTY TOO HARD but serious challenges still remain. Our thoughts go out
to female guests in particular. Channel your and go for the flashiest, prettiest envelope Contrary to wedding ceremonies in some to everyone affected by this disaster.
inner American high schooler on her way to you can find – no minimalist business, as countries (we’re looking at you, Great Britain),
prom and get yourself a shiny-fabric dress the simple envelopes found right next to the a Japanese reception is not the place to get Visit forkumamoto.yahoo.co.jp
– it’s the one occasion where a bit of sheen is ‘shugibukuro’ (wedding money envelopes) at sloshed, dance on the table or try to snog one for more information on how you can help
the done thing. Tone down the vivid colours, convenience stores are those used for funerals. of the bridesmaids/best men. The hiroen is for
stick to knee-length (no mini dresses, no maxi Also note that the afterparty (‘nijikai’) has being somewhat solemn and civilly tipsy, with
the disaster victims.
dresses) and cover thy shoulders – with a shawl a separate fee, often around ¥10,000. Some the only emotion coming into play being some
if you have to. Above all, keep those shoes choose to skip the hiroen and just go to the light tears shed upon watching the video of the
closed. Even at the height of summer, no toes nijikai; at the height of wedding season, that newlyweds’ journey to romance. Upside? No
are to be flaunted, no matter how great your choice may be the last thing standing between obnoxious drunken uncles.

Promotional feature
LOCAL
INSIGHT
When did you first come to Tokyo,
and what made you choose the city
What differences and similarities
do you see between Japanese and
I, GLOBAL Get closer to the action
I, TOKYO Domo
as your new home? non-Japanese families?
I first came to be with my The main similarity is the
boyfriend, who was studying struggle to find things to keep Four ways Grand Sumo Highlights helps to improve
here in 2011, but we left two years the kids occupied in this big city NHK’s mascot introduces your sumo-watching experience
Alexandra later. We didn’t think another

opportunity to live here would
come along, but it did! In 2015, we
– something or somewhere both
kids and parents can enjoy. The
differences? The way [Japanese]
Tokyo to the world
BOASTING A 1,500-YEAR history, sumo is engrained into Japan’s
culture. Although its rules are simple, the many ritualistic aspects can
Pasquali-Gaudy
came back to Tokyo on exactly families handle their kids. They make the world of sumo quite difficult to understand – but not if you
the same date we left two years never seem to lose their temper, tune in to Grand Sumo Highlights (GSH), one of NHK World’s most
earlier. and for that I admire them. Also, popular programmes. This highlight show is aired four times daily
Japanese families give their kids during tournaments, while the website offers you all the information
The Global Families (TGF) offers more freedom [from a young
©NHK-TYO
you’ll need to enjoy every aspect of the sport. Here’s how GSH will get
Staff member of a chance for Japanese and non- age] than we would normally do you ready for the dohyo.
The Global Families Japanese families to meet up. What in France. For instance, seeing
inspired you to work for them? little ones getting on the metro by
Age: 39 I thought it might be a great themselves.
chance to expand my world in
Japan as a mum with no job and
few connections. I love the idea of
When did you first feel like a
Tokyoite?
1. IT’S ALL IN ENGLISH
GSH is Japan’s only English-language sumo programme. The
play-by-play commentators analyse what to look out for and how the
2. YOU GET THE FULL DEETS ON THE WRESTLERS
The rikishi, or wrestlers, are ranked in divisions. Learning more
about each rikishi is one of the most popular ways to enjoy sumo.
creating bonds between Japanese I might not fully be a Tokyoite yet, wrestlers are doing in each bout. Hiro Morita, one of the programme’s On the GSH website, wrestlers in the top maku-uchi division are all
and non-Japanese families, and but I feel at ease here because I’m experts, gave us a few advance pointers: ‘Keep an eye on every move introduced, while the top rikishi – those of yokozuna (grand champion)
providing international families able to speak a bit [of Japanese], a wrestler makes from the time he steps into the ring. The pre-bout and ozeki rank – each have their own video biographies. You’ll soon
with opportunities to learn more go around and feel a sense of rituals are as important as the bout find your favourite.
about Japan. accomplishment. Also, when we itself – clapping hands to request
go back to France for a holiday, the gods’ attention, showing their
What are the most interesting and I miss the life in Tokyo, and say open palms to prove they are
attractive aspects of your work? ‘when we go back home’ when I unarmed, throwing salt to purify the
One of my projects was a hanami talk with my husband. ring – the more you learn, the more
picnic in Shinjuku Gyoen. I enchanting it becomes.’
created maps for the kids, who NHK World offers a wide range
had to complete tasks before of multilingual news and other
collecting their rewards. We had programmes. Do you have a
activities such as face painting favourite programme?
and drawing workshops. The I find NHK World very interesting
kids and their families had a and helpful. I especially like
wonderful time despite the ‘Journeys in Japan’ and ‘Tokyo Eye Hiro Morita
crowds.As someone far away from 2020’. Each programme is just 20
her family, friends and habits, I or 30 minutes long, so I can watch
feel like I am part of a group and I with my three-year-old daughter.
feel useful.
What programmes and activities

Finally, any survival tips for
international families?
3. YOU CAN LEARN THE TECHNIQUES
It’s exciting to see how powerful wrestlers – who weigh 160kg
on average – clash in the sacred ring. There are 82 recognised
4. YOU GET TO STUDY THE HISTORY AND ASK
QUESTIONS
The Sumopedia section of the site offers short video guides to enrich
does TGF offer? If you want to feel at ease and not ‘kimarite’, or match-winning techniques, and five non-techniques your sumo experience. Learn about techniques, traditions and
From simple picnics with games far from home anymore, join us! (ways to lose), all defined by the Japan Sumo Association. You can famous wrestlers of the
and workshops for kids to film You’ll meet other families and, learn the most frequently used techniques by watching the video past. Also, on the Q&A
screenings, we have a broad range who knows, make new friends. It masterclasses on the site. page, you can send your
of activities. One recent popular can be hard when you don’t speak questions to announcer
event is hanging out at the horse much Japanese and Japanese Morita, who’ll find the
racing stadium in Chofu. Kids people don’t speak much English. answer for you. Here’s
can ride ponies and carriages, But with kids? You don’t have an example: why do the
take part in a picnic and watch the much choice, so you’ll need to step wrestlers stamp their feet
races together in the VIP room. out of your comfort zone. Kids are in the ring before a bout?
great for bonding with people you They’re trying to keep evil
wouldn’t have talked to otherwise. spirits from rising through
the ground, of course!
WATCH ON DEMAND! DOWNLOAD THE APP!

Watching every bout of a tournament can be tough You can watch Grand Sumo Highlights,
àSee www.theglobalfamilies.com even for the most rabid of sumo fans. Luckily, NHK and other NHK World TV programmes on
for more information about the Global World offers 25min highlight summaries from this app. Download by scanning the QR
Families code on the right.
each day, both live and on demand. App Store® Google Play™
Visit nhk.jp/nhkworld to find out how you can get NHK WORLD TV 24/7 in your country, on your TV, computer or mobile device.
ONE NIGHT
IN TOKYO
The best bars, waterfront spots and romantic restaurants, plus superb
musical hideouts, seductive cats and other curious characters – it’s your
Eager to try the tipple on our
cover? Then make your way
down to Omori bar Tenderly, run
by the masterful Yuko Miyazaki.
More than just a local sensation,
her shrine to classic cocktails
attracts patrons from all over
Tokyo and beyond.
à Omori-Kita Park Bldg 2F, 1-33-11 Omori-Kita,
Ota (Omori Station). tinyurl.com/TOTtenderly.
5pm-1am (Fri until 2am, holidays until
PHOTO: JIN TAMAOKI/AFRO
12midnight), closed Sun.

ultimate guide to after-dark action in the capital
ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO
One night of ISHINOHANA

Seasonal cocktails are the speciality at Ishinohana, Shibuya’s answer
to the high-end cocktail joints of Ginza. At a basement location just a
romance
minute’s walk from Shibuya Station, owner Shinobu Ishigaki wields
an array of fresh fruit and vegetables when creating his distinctive
drinks. He also fancies himself as something of a boozy matchmaker:
share your mood and watch as he conjures up a gorgeous creation to
suit it. If you’d rather go by the book, there are entire menus devoted
just to mojitos and martinis, plus a sizeable list of originals in constant
By Tamasaburau flux. The quality is generally very high indeed, and the atmosphere
considerably less intimidating than at Ginza’s bartending temples
– you can even peek inside through the windows, which is rare at top-
THERE ARE THOSE who say that bars are no place for a class Tokyo bars.
date. These people are fools. True, you run the risk of the à B1F, 3-6-2 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya
bartender eavesdropping your sweet nothings and your Station). 03 5485 8405. ishinohana.com.
date being horrified as you outdrink them at a ratio of three
to one, but conducting your courtship at the counter also
6pm-2am, closed Sun & hols.
MADURO
means great views, killer cocktails and a place to drown A welcoming atmosphere, service that
your sorrows should it not work out. Here are the ten best won’t let you down, rare whisky and brilliant
booze-centred date spots in the city. cocktails, a cigar if the occasion calls for it,
live jazz and a lavishly decorated interior
– everything appears perfect for a date at
Roppongi’s Maduro. Only thing is you’ll need
to reach it first: after taking a winding approach
through the lobby of the Grand Hyatt hotel and
navigating a maze of hallways and elevators,
you’ll need to cross through a mysterious
passage that feels like walking on water before
arriving at the bar’s heavy wooden doors,
beyond which you’ll find a total of 108 seats
reserved exclusively for sophisticated sippers.
Underneath the high ceiling lies several sofas,
box seats separated from each other with glass-
laced partitions, and even a few small private
rooms – they let you pick and choose your spot
depending on your, and your partner’s, mood.
Note that there’s a ¥2,000 cover charge every
night after 8pm.
à Grand Hyatt Tokyo 4F, Roppongi Hills, 6-10-3 Roppongi, Minato
(Roppongi Station). 03 4333 8783. tokyo.grand.hyatt.com/en/hotel/
dining/Maduro.html. 7pm-1am (Fri, Sat until 2am).
Ishinohana
BAR NOIR
A veteran barman with stints at luxury hotels
such as the Westin Tokyo and the Ritz-Carlton
under his belt, Takeshi Saito exudes an aura of
quiet confidence – this is a man who has seen LE MARQUIS
BAR TIARÉ ANGELS’ SHARE the world, served it a stiff drink and listened The journey to the Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo’s classy bar is a significant part of its charm.
Named after the supposedly luck-bringing When newly distilled whisky is stored in away before they even make it through the to its stories. Saito’s Ebisu haunt follows his Get yourself to Edogawabashi Station then, rather than hailing a cab, walk along the
national flower of Tahiti, Tiaré is the domain casks and matured, a minuscule amount of door. But you’d be wrong: Angels’ Share is lead – the decor is smart, but the atmosphere Kanda River with your date until you reach the hotel’s Kabukimon gate. Enter and
of Yasuhiko Mizusawa, a former all-Japan it evaporates every year, This lost portion actually rather apt for a date, mainly thanks is very welcoming. The conventional thing admire the gorgeous Japanese garden you’ll find yourself in. Once you start feeling
bartending champion and a great proponent is said to have been drunk by angels, and is to the supremely friendly fellow behind the would of course be to just sit at the counter and thirsty, cross the Benkei bridge and pick out a table at the luxurious Le Marquis. The
of making couples happy through the magic of thus referred to as the ‘angels’ share’. In other counter. Kenji Imai is a whisky expert to the watch the proprietor craft whichever cocktails four seats at the Italian marble-covered counter are appealing, but sinking yourself
cocktails. Known as the ‘Crown Prince of Fresh words, the powers that be give their blessing core, but he’ll never turn away first-timers he deems appropriate for the two of you, but into one of the sofas probably makes for a more intimate atmosphere. If you can keep
Fruit’, Mizusawa doesn’t just use tropical fruits in to the distiller in exchange for a tiny portion or resort to half-hearted recommendations, we’d recommend heading to one of the table your eyes off each other, remember to spare a few glimpses for the gorgeous furniture,
his drinks: he is fond of crafting little butterflies of his or her product. With its name derived as some less service-minded Tokyo barmen seats facing the windows. Looking down from manufactured by fabled American company Baker, the roots of which go back to
out of peel to decorate the glasses. A riot of from such an obscure term, you might might. Imai’s passion runs deep, and his the fifth floor, you’ll be able to do some serious 1890. The Chinzanso’s rooms are decorated with the same chairs, tables and other
colour, Tiaré is the perfect place for lovebirds suspect that this specialist bar in chic guidance is sure to lead both of you deep into people-watching with your companion before furnishings, so you get to enjoy the atmosphere of one of Tokyo’s priciest hotels for the
PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
who just want to focus on each other while Futako-Tamagawa is one of those the fascinating world of fine malts. or after dinner in one of the city’s most stylish cost of your drinks alone. Speaking of drinks, highlights include near-perfect martinis
sipping some of the prettiest drinks in town. places where connoisseurs go to have à Meiyu Flats 3F, 3-12-13 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa neighbourhoods. and the Youkihi cocktail, a Le Marquis original named after 8th-century imperial
à Akasaka Hogetsudo Honten Bldg 5F, 4-2-2 Akasaka, Minato endless conversations about whisky and Station). 03 3709 6200. blog.livedoor.jp/bar_angels_share. à Ice Cube 5F, 3-1-25 Ebisu-Minami, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). consort Yang Guifei, one of the legendary ‘four beauties’ of ancient China.
(Akasaka-Mitsuke Station). 03 3585 7300. facebook.com/bar.tiare. its many nuances, scaring any couples far 6pm-3am, closed Sun. 03 5725 9888. noir-tokyo.com. 7pm-4am (Sun until 12midnight), à Hotel Chinzanso Tokyo 2F, 2-10-8 Sekiguchi, Bunkyo (Edogawabashi Station). 03 3943 1111. hotel-chinzanso-tokyo.jp/
5pm-1am, closed Sun & hols. closed hols. restaurant/marquis. Daily 6pm-12midnight.
ONE NIGHT IN TOKYO
A MADAME’S
AFTER-DARK
GUIDE TO SHIBUYA
MANDARIN BAR
Nihonbashi, the heart of old Edo, now has its share of high-
rises, but none of these towers stand out quite like the one
housing the Mandarin Oriental hotel. Directly accessible
from Mitsukoshimae subway station and perched on the 37th
floor, the hotel’s signature bar affords impressive views of
the surrounding business district. But it’s not all about those Kurando, the proprietress at Shibuya
Blade Runner-esque vistas. The Mandarin Bar is famed for its interior: local design ‘snack’ bar Utsubo Kazura, is an eager
hotshot Ryu Kosaka was asked to create ‘something sexy, but like nothing you’ve traveller. Originally from Saitama just
seen before’. His spacious layout incorporating a Zen pool and an array of designer north of Tokyo, she spent years running
furnishings succeeds on both counts. The central counter is dazzling, while the pop-up boozers at art fairs in the
WHISKY LIBRARY sofas by the windows offer the ultimate date experience. If it’s a special day for the countryside before setting up her own
The brand-lined streets of Aoyama feel like they’re two of you, consider sharing a luxurious night of dinner and champagne at the table joint in the capital in 2016. Although
a long way from the wild and windswept moors enveloped by flowing water. As for the drinks, consider opting for some Mancino she spends most of her nights at the
of Scotland, but it’s here you’ll find a plush and Sakura & Sumire vermouth – a Mandarin Bar original – as an alternative to cocktails. bar, Kurando occasionally wanders
discreet haven stocked to bursting with a bold range à Mandarin Oriental, Tokyo 37F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 3270 8188. into competing establishments on her
of Scotch. Pass the church on the ground floor of mandarinoriental.com/tokyo/fine-dining/mandarin-bar. Daily 11.30am-2am. nocturnal journeys…
the elegant Santa Chiara complex and climb the
stairs to find the door to Whisky Library, where ‘Before opening my own place for the
the bookcases are filled not with dusty old tomes night, I usually start out with a proper meal
but with a stunning collection of more than 1,200 SKY LOUNGE AURORA at Otechikiya (Towa Aoyama Bldg B02,
different bottles. Aiming to help newbies learn more Picking the Keio Plaza’s Sky Lounge as one of 2-8-4 Shibuya, Shibuya, 03 3400 7071,
about the overwhelming variety of fine malts, this Tokyo’s top date bars might seem like a cliché, 5pm-11pm, closed Sun & hols, 2nd Mon of
bar has none of that ‘connoisseurs only’ attitude but we maintain that this expansive spot, the month), an eatery right by my bar. They
sometimes evident at other Tokyo whisky bars, and reopened in December 2016 after a complete specialise in local cuisine from Kagoshima
provides a simple menu of standard options to get overhaul, is a reborn classic. The spectacular prefecture down in Kyushu – think plenty
your sipping started. The 82 seats include sofas, views of Shinjuku’s business district remain of heirloom chicken and shochu – and I
stools and seating in private rooms, encouraging you unchanged, but the chic, black-toned interior love the laidback country accents of the
to admire your drink from a variety of angles and in is all new. Also spruced up is the laidback employees. Another unmissable early-
different lighting conditions – you’ll feel like you can counter-only bar in business since 1971 on evening spot is Fujiya Honten (B1F, 2-3
discover something new even if you order the same the north side of the space. Its windows Sakuragaokacho, Shibuya, tinyurl.com/
tipple twice. look out over all of Tokyo’s greatest hits: the TOTfujiya, Mon-Fri 5pm-9.30pm, Sat
WHISKY LIBRARY, MOTIF, MANDARIN BAR, KURANDO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. SKY LOUNGE AURORA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
à Minami-Aoyama Santa Chiara Church 2F, 5-5-24 Minami-Aoyama, Minato metropolitan government building in the west, 5pm-8.30pm, closed Sun & hols, 4th Sat
(Omotesando Station). 03 6434 1163. tokyo-whisky-library.com. Mon-Sat the Skytree, Tokyo Tower and central Shinjuku of the month). This iconic, 130-year-old
6pm-3am (last orders 2am), Sun 5pm-12midnight (11pm). to the east, and Nishi-Shinjuku’s futuristic basement bar is as retro as it gets, and I
towers to the north. Go early to watch the sun love the old-school appetisers that go so
MOTIF set across from the metro government’s Kenzo well with Hoppy, a beer substitute that
Finding your way up to this hotel bar right by Tokyo Station can be Tange-designed headquarters while you two makes the basis for a crisp, refreshing DIY
tricky, but nailing it on the first try is also a sure way to impress your sip on cocktails in the light-filled space. But cocktail. Later at night, I join the poor souls
companion. Skip the main entrance to the office-filled, 31-storey Pacific the Sky Lounge’s highlights reach beyond who’ve missed their last train home at the
Century Place building on Sotobori-dori and instead make way for the the setting: mixing drinks here is Kazuya Aoyama branch of Chinese Cafe Eight
SEE MORE right-hand side of the structure, where you’ll see a sign for the Four Watanabe, the first bartender to receive the (5-51-8 Jingumae, Shibuya, 8aoyama.
Seasons Hotel. Enter through the sliding doors, go all the way to the end Japanese government’s medal of honour with com, 24 hours daily), which serves cheap
of the corridor, take the dedicated elevator to the seventh floor and head a yellow ribbon, awarded to ‘contemporary Peking duck, is casual and always open.
TIMEOUT.COM/ around the back to encounter a bar so blissful that you’ll hardly believe master craftsmen’. Top value is provided by the That does it for me on most nights, but,
TOKYO it sits inside a faceless glass-and-steel tower. Facing the train tracks and ¥7,000 Cocktail Dinner, which can be ordered if I’m feeling really energetic, I head to
platforms of Tokyo Station, the huge windows offer excellent views. from 5pm to 10pm and includes three drinks Sakuragaoka’s friendly Cataratas (Dolce
Grab a seat at one of the tables next to them, pick off the seasonal cocktail from a selection of more than 100, to go with Shibuya B2F, 16-14 Sakuragaokacho,
menu and plan your next journey together while gazing out over the your three-course meal. Shibuya, 03 3461 6615, from 6pm, closed
Shinkansen trains arriving and departing beneath you. à Keio Plaza Hotel 45F, 2-2-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Tochomae Sun) for one last sip. They’ve got a great
à Four Seasons Tokyo 7F, Pacific Century Place, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo Station). 03 5222 5810. Station). 03 3344 0111. www.keioplaza.com/restaurants/skylounge/ import beer selection.’
fourseasons.com/tokyo/dining/restaurants/motif_restaurant_and_bar. 10am-12midnight (Thu, Fri until 1am). index.html. Daily 5pm-11.30pm.
One night of ECHIKATSU

Echikatsu may be just a short walk from Yushima Station, but it belongs in a different
era entirely. Established in 1871 and now run by the sixth generation of the same
fine food
family, the tradition and authenticity of this Japanese restaurant have been perfectly
CHINA BLUE preserved. Although rebuilt and restored several times over the years, its ryokan-
If you’re seeking a lavish beginning to your evening then China Blue on esque building remains a symbol of Japanese beauty and simplicity.
the 28th floor of the Conrad Tokyo hotel won’t disappoint. Chef Albert Walking the stone pathway through an impeccable Japanese garden to the main
Tse made his fame in Hong Kong and Singapore before moving to Japan entrance, you already know you’re in for a special evening. Made up of individual
and commandeering the Conrad’s cloud-bothering restaurant in 2005. tatami-mat rooms that cater to anywhere from two to 80 diners, the restaurant’s
The culinary delights that’ll make your Despite the name, the food at China Blue is actually a happy fusion structure means you’ll always feel like you have the place to yourself. Every room
Tokyo date unforgettable, in the form inspired by Tse’s Asian travels. looks out onto the beautiful gardens – when booking, ask for a view of the pond and
of four stellar restaurants. Each dish is impeccably presented and arrives begging to be its colourful carp swimming around peacefully. The tranquillity of the setting will
Instagrammed before being dug into. If you can tear your eyes away have you in disbelief of the fact you’re still right in the middle of bustling Tokyo.
By Sarah Crago from your plate, the stunning views over the harbour, including the Sukiyaki is Echikatsu’s main culinary attraction, and supposedly tastes just like
twinkling Rainbow and Tokyo Gate bridges in the distance, are worth it did when the restaurant was first founded. Supermodel-thin slices of A5-grade
capturing. Matsusaka wagyu are cooked in a shallow iron pot at your table, along with tofu, leek,
The ‘Couples Course’ is actually seven – a tasting menu which features mushrooms and harusame (glass noodles). The broth used is known as warishita –
chef Tse’s signature dish, barbecue spare ribs with sweet and sour sauce, its exact recipe is a closely guarded family secret, but the main ingredients are soy
as its centrepiece. This isn’t your average finger food, as the sticky ribs sauce, sake, kombu seaweed, mirin and water. Before eating, dip the beef in a lightly
are adorned with fresh strawberries, wasabi leaves and myoga (Japanese beaten raw egg to really bring out the flavour.
ginger). Artfully presented, it could be mistaken for your dessert. à 2-31-23 Yushima, Bunkyo (Yushima Station). 03 3811 5293. tinyurl.com/TOTechikatsu. 5pm-9.30pm, closed Sun & hols,
à Conrad Tokyo 28F, 1-9-1 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi, Shiodome stations). 03 6388 8745. Saturdays in August.
conradtokyo.co.jp/restaurants/chinablue. Daily 11.30am-2pm, 5.30pm-9pm.
FISH BANK TOKYO

Fish Bank wastes no time in taking your breath away. The restaurant’s dedicated
lift in the Shiodome City Center building rises to the 41st floor so quickly you fear
emerging with the bends, and the interior continues on a mission to make you
hyperventilate. The floor to ceiling windows present all of Tokyo to you in miniature
while the high ceilings, elaborate crystal chandeliers and a glass-fronted wine room
housing over 1,000 bottles are almost as impressive. If your dining partner isn’t
visibly impressed, you should check them for a pulse.
You aren’t the only one to make that lift journey – the flapping fresh contents
of the impressive seafood platter are ferried up daily from Tsukiji Market below.
FBT’s speciality is the sea urchin chawanmushi (Japanese egg custard), a silky, rich
delicacy served in a spiky urchin shell. There are plenty of fresh oysters to further
get you in the mood – consider pairing these unevenly sized beauties with a glass
of crisp champagne.
The menu accommodates both à la carte and three prix fixe options – five, six or
seven courses – which take the pressure off choosing, allowing you to sit back, enjoy
the sequence of dishes and take in the spectacular vistas.
A little tip when booking is to ask for one of the windowside tables with the best
views of Tokyo Tower, although this iconic feature of the capital’s skyline is at least
partially visible from all vantage points inside the main dining room.
à Shiodome City Center 41F, 1-5-2 Higashi-Shinbashi, Minato (Shinbashi, Shiodome stations). 03 3569 7171. fish-bank-tokyo.
jp. Daily 11.30am-3pm (last orders 1.30pm), 5.30pm-11.30pm (9.30pm).
CHINA BLUE, FISH BANK TOKYO, FRATELLI PARADISO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. ECHIKATSU: MANABU MOROOKA
FRATELLI PARADISO
A new challenger for the title of Tokyo’s most romantic restaurant is Fratelli Paradiso, hailing
from Sydney. Its ‘all day’ approach to eating – not as common as you’d think in the capital – means
you can stop by for a glass of natural wine and a delicious plate of food at the bar any time of the
day or make a lunch or dinner reservation to really make the most of it.
Located in the Omotesando Hills complex, it’s the perfect end to a day of shopping or the start
of a night out in busy Shibuya or fancy Aoyama. The vibe is contemporary Italian bistro – swanky
but not wanky. You’ll notice the marble bar, inviting tan leather banquettes and the menu chalked
up casually on the dining room wall.
All of the bread and pasta are made fresh on-site, a signature being the scampi spaghetti, which
sees a whole scampi served in its shell alongside a simple, fresh tomato pasta. Whatever your
choice, a meal at Fratelli Paradiso is not complete without their signature tiramisu. It’s got the
perfect balance of creamy versus light and airy, with just the right amounts of coffee and booze.
The only problem is you could destroy the evening’s romantic atmosphere by steadfastly refusing
to let your partner have even the smallest taste.
à Omotesando Hills 3F, 4-12-10 Jingumae, Shibuya (Omotesando, Meiji-Jingumae stations). fratelliparadiso.im-transit.co.jp.
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm, Sun & hols 11am-10.30pm.
One night A TASTY NIGHT IN KINSHICHO
of casual
drinking
Where to go when just you’re just looking GEM BY MOTO
to down a few cold ones in good company –
A drinks menu is provided at Ebisu’s Gem by Moto, but locals know
these are four of our favourite watering holes you’re best to ignore it. Instead ask manager Marie Chiba or her staff
in the Shibuya-Ebisu-Meguro area. to pick out the perfect drink to match your mood. This counter-only
By Yukako Izumi hideout is the repository of some serious sake expertise, so you’re in
safe hands. The food is good too, particularly the ham cutlets with blue
cheese and cherry tomatoes with mozzarella, which will keep tempting
you back for one last round. Gem lives up to its name, especially in
Ebisu – a neighbourhood that suffered from a serious lack of proper sake
bars before Chiba and her team rolled into town in July 2015. In fact, it’s
become so popular that reservations are recommended at all times.
à 1-30-9 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 6455 6998. fsknet.co.jp/impression/moto_ebisu.php. Tue-Fri
5pm-12midnight, Sat, Sun & hols 1pm-9pm, closed Mon.
Harumi Tsunoda is one busy woman: a real

estate agent by day, she spends her spare evenings
painting and designing. She also organises the
MIKKELLER TOKYO
One night with
annual Sumida River Mono Koto Ichi, eastern
You can’t keep Mikkel Borg Bjergsø and his signature ‘gypsy brewery’ down. The Danish beer Tokyo’s biggest handicrafts event. Born and raised
rogue was forced to close his short-lived Tomigaya bar in winter 2016, but he’s now back on in Kinshicho, she’s the ideal person to ask for night-
the scene. After a few months of pop-ups and other foamy events, a new permanent location time recommendations in this once rough but now
finally saw the light of day in April 2017. Mikkeller Tokyo the sequel is set in a corner building in
Shibuya’s love hotel-infested Hyakkendana. Offering a smallish but comfy stage for sipping both
Bjergsø’s own artisanal brews and guest beers from Japan and beyond – there are 20 taps in total
– it’s a wonderful addition to an offbeat neighbourhood where sex shops co-exist with stylish
Tokyo’s sexiest cats endlessly intriguing neighbourhood.
‘Before the station area was redeveloped, Kinshicho

used to be a little scary even for locals, but that aura’s
restaurants and even a Shinto shrine. Partially opening up onto the street, the ground floor is Meet a pair of nocturnal celebrities that all gone these days. The northern side is especially
where to enjoy a drink on your feet and always gets crowded once the sun goes down, while tables could only exist in this city well worth exploring, as plenty of stylish restaurants
are found in the quiet space upstairs. Bringing a touch of Scandinavian flair to Shibuya, Mikkeller have opened there in recent years. But to experience
is the kind of place we’d like to stop by every night. the essence of the area, you need to start at an izakaya.
à 2-19-11 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). mikkeller.jp. Mon-Thu 3pm-12.30am, Fri 3pm-1.30am, Sat 12noon-1.30am, Sun & hols My go-to spot is Sugoroku (4-9-1 Midori, Sumida,
12noon-12.30am. su569.com, 5pm-11pm, closed Wed), a down-to-
earth joint with delicious food. It’s run by the head
of the local supporters’ association for sumo grand
champion Hakuho, so you’ll find signed photos of the
wrestler all over the walls. If you prefer sake to beer
and shochu, opt for Jozoka Oryzae (4-12-3 Kinshi,
ANOTHER 8, CATS, HARUMI TSUNODA: KISA TOYOSHIMA. MIKKELLER, ØL TOKYO, GEM BY MOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
Sumida, facebook.com/jzk.oryzae, 5pm-12midnight,
Sun 2pm-11pm, closed Mon), famed for its brews
ANOTHER 8 and funky fermented food. To keep you on your feet
The sister shop of Kyoto-based craft beer and after all that drinking, try one of the offbeat ramen
sake bar Before 9, Another 8 landed in the Ebisu bar Tokyo Robin counts If you prefer a less troublesome shops in the area: Mengyo (2-8-8 Kotobashi, Sumida,
capital this April, opening in posh Meguro plenty of attractive ladies and but equally handsome date, 03 6659 9619, 11am-9pm, closed Mon) both draw
in a space that used to be a garage. A place for gentlemen among its clientele, head for Shinjuku’s retro Cafe their broth from and top their bowls with madai (red
laidback drinking, it’s got tables and benches but even the most stunning Arles. Working the floor here is sea bream), while Saichi (4-6-9 Kinshi, Sumida, 03
both inside and out front, in addition to a patrons here are overshadowed by the five-year-old Jirocho, whose 3622 0141, Mon-Thu 11.30am-11.30pm, Fri, Sat
stand bar that tends to get very crowded on the one-year-old Robin, dubbed well-manicured whiskers and 11.30am-12midnight, Sun & hols 11.30am-10pm) use
weekends. Although beer is the speciality ØL TOKYO the sexiest cat in Tokyo. Always funky bangs lend him a manly, oysters for the same purpose. Alternatively, you could
at Another 8 – the place is equipped with When the sun begins to set over Oku-Shibuya (‘inner Shibuya’), the trendy back eager to strike a pose for the model-like appearance. Also go for curry – Kinshicho has some of the best in town –
eight taps – there is also a small but very nice streets of Tokyo’s buzziest neighbourhood, you might spot more than a few suit- camera, this fetching feline is the the owner of a loving, caring at south Indian eatery Venu’s (2-6-11 Kinshi, Sumida,
selection of sake. The bar snacks are pretty wearing characters making their way towards this shrine to Norwegian craft beer. owner of an enchanting aura that personality, this is a kitty who’ll 03 6284 1711, 5pm-10pm) or Bangladeshi import Asia
good too – we’re big fans of the marinated The best bar in the area for a post-work pint, Øl Tokyo is the local outpost of Oslo betrays her tender age. Stroke her put the neighbourhood’s host Curry House (3-9-24 Kotobashi, Sumida, 03 3634
octopus and celery, while those looking for Brewing and exudes Scandinavian style: the furniture and part of the décor was shiny fur for too long and she’ll club playboys to shame. 4522, 7.30pm-4am). Lighter fare is offered by Malo
something more substantial will want to try flown in straight from Norway. The 20 taps serve a range of Nordic brews plus a start hissing threateningly – this is à 5-10-8 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku- Galette & Quiche (4-8-5 Kamezawa, Sumida, 03 6906
the shirasu (whitebait) and rotating selection of guest beers. Food trucks occasionally park in front of the bar to a beauty not easily tamed. Sanchome Station). 03 3356 0003. 9844, 5pm-10pm, closed Tue), which is my favourite
daikon omelette. compensate for its very sparse food menu, although we love the house-made waffles, à Ebisu Bldg 2F, 4-10-8 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu 11.30am-10pm, closed Sun. restaurant right now. Their galettes go so well with
à Yokogawa Bldg 1F, 1-2-18 Shimomeguro, Meguro (Meguro Station). filled with goat’s cheese – when in Norway and all... Station). 03 6447 7333. 12noon-12midnight, French cider or a glass of buckwheat beer.’
03 6417 9158. sakahachi.jp. 5pm-1am, closed Tue. à 37-10 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5738 7186. oltokyo.jp. 12noon-12midnight (Fri, Sat until 2am). closed Mon.
One night A CHIC NIGHT IN GINZA
by the water
By Mari Hiratsuka
IN PART THANKS to all the Olympics-related construction

happening out by the bay, Tokyo’s waterfront areas are
undergoing a quiet revival, with new restaurants, cafés,
hip hotels and other exciting hangouts popping up here
and there along the capital’s rivers and canals. Led by
the inclusive Mizbering project, which aims to make LUNATIQUE TOKIOPLAGE
the most of recently relaxed regulations and a growing If you are after some old-school charm in Futako-Tamagawa, dodge the
interest in reviving our dear city’s reputation as an aquatic new and imposing Rise shopping complex and instead head east to find
metropolis, this welcome trend has also resulted in the this lone four-storey house hidden out by the Tama River. It houses a
emergence of several exciting after-dark destinations. great French restaurant and the top two floors have terrace seating with
Read on for our picks of the most romantic waterfront great views of the gently flowing river and the trains zipping by along the
hideouts in Tokyo right now. Denentoshi line. Order the steak fillet with foie gras (¥1,389), pick out
a bottle of wine (from ¥2,300) and take in the cool evening breeze. Just NIHONBASHI ICHINO ICHINO ICHI
don’t be surprised by the minimalist service: food tickets are bought at Nihonbashi, the bridge that gave an entire central Tokyo district its name, is steeped
the ground-floor kitchen, and the staff will call you over a speaker when in history as it was once the starting point for the five main routes that connected Edo
your dishes are ready for pick-up. The out-of-the-way, out of this world, with the provinces. Today the best place to admire the lit-up structure and the canal
location means it’s worth the effort of fetching your own food. running underneath it is from the terrace seats at this classy Japanese restaurant Komei Motoji is the president of Ginza
à1-1-4 Tamagawa, Setagaya (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 3708 1118. tinyurl.com/TOTlunatique. and bar, named after its address and extremely popular among local businesspeople Motoji, a kimono purveyor that operates
Mon-Sat 11am-11pm (last orders 10pm), Sun & hols 11am-10pm (9pm). who stop by for a tipple after work. For a quieter experience, grab one of the stools by three shops in Ginza. He has lived and
the counter and dig into the Madai no donabemeshi, a rice dish with red sea bream breathed Tokyo’s glitziest neighbourhood
cooked in a clay pot – the perfect companion to a couple of sake shots. Get there early since 1979, never taking a day off, but
for the happy hour (3-7pm), when draft beer, nihonshu and cocktails can be had for making up for it by enjoying Ginza’s
just ¥300 a pop. nightlife to the fullest. These are his top
à 1-1-1 Nihonbashi, Chuo (Nihonbashi Station). 03 3516 3111. nihonbashi111.jp. Mon-Fri 11am-2pm, 4pm-11.30pm (last after-dark picks in the area.
orders for food 10pm, drinks 11pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10.30pm (9pm/10pm).
‘I love my job, and work 365 days a year. But
sometimes you need a break, and that’s
when I head to Tateru Yoshino Ginza
(Pias Ginza 12F, 4-8-10 Ginza, Chuo,
tateruyoshino.com/ginza, 11.30am-2pm,
6pm-9pm), a French restaurant not
CAFE MEURSAULT far from our main shop. Chef Yoshino
Grab a seat by the huge worked under Joël Robuchon in Paris
windows at this hip café and creates amazing dishes, but the
perched partially above the location is unbeatable too – on the 12th
Sumida River for spectacular floor of the Pias Ginza building, with
views over lit-up Azumabashi, views over the entire neighbourhood.
the Skytree and the golden, uh, Make sure not to fill up completely, as
turd on the roof of the Asahi we’re heading to a yakitori joint next.
Building. If you’re really lucky, Cheap, tasty and cheerful, Take-chan
you might be able to snag one of (4-8-13 Ginza, Chuo, 03 3561 6889,
the tables on the small terrace 5pm-8.45pm, closed Sun & hols) has been
and feel like you have the city a local favourite for over half a century.
all to yourself. Meursault’s I’m usually content with just having a few
20-strong cake selection and drinks over dinner, but on nights when I
LUNATIQUE, CAFE MEURSAULT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. KOMEI MOTOJI: KISA TOYOSHIMA
eclectic drink menu are almost feel really thirsty, I head for Bar S (Ginza
as dizzying as the views. Hot tip: Shiseido Bldg 11F, 8-8-3 Ginza, Chuo,
this is probably one of the best tinyurl.com/TOTbars, 5.30pm-11.30pm,
places in the area for catching PRIVADO closed Sat, Sun & hols). This fancy cocktail
the annual Sumida River Press the intercom at the front entrance of one of the newer buildings overlooking the spot opened in 2015 inside the Shiseido
Fireworks, set for July 29 this Sumida River in Kuramae and you’ll gain entrance to an elevator that’ll take you up to Building and is a great pick for closing out
year, but you’ll need to move Privado, an appropriately ‘private’ bar that is, in our book, one of the most impressive the night. Another nice option is Bulgari
really quickly to secure a spot – date spots in all of eastern Tokyo. In addition to a top-drawer margarita, you’ll find Il Bar (Bulgari Ginza Tower 10F, 2-7-12
bookings are taken from July 3. a plentiful selection of vintage whisky and cigars. Book in advance for access to one Ginza, Chuo, bulgarihotels.com/en_US/
à 2-1-5 Kaminarimon, Taito (Asakusa of the few terrace tables, which provide attractive vistas out towards the Skytree. For tokyo-osaka-restaurants/tokyo/il-bar,
Station). 03 3843 8008. cafe-meursault.com. a change of pace, check out ‘ping-pong bar’ Ribayon on the fourth floor of the same Mon-Sat 11.30am-11.30pm, Sun & hols
Mon-Fri 11am-11pm (last food orders 9pm, structure, or head down to the eclectic Cielo y Rio restaurant and café that occupies 11.30am-6pm) on the tenth floor of the
drink 10.30pm), Sat, Sun & hols 11am-10pm floors one and three. Italian luxury brand’s flagship store – the
(9pm/9.30pm). à Mirror 7F, 2-15-5 Kuramae, Taito (Kuramae Station). 03 5820 7310. privado.jp. 7pm-1am, closed Mon, 2nd & 4th biggest Bulgari store in the world.’
Sun of the month.
One night A chef’s tour

of music of Shinjuku
While their personalities and atmospheres Thomas Angerer is executive chef at the Park
differ, these five Tokyo music bars are all GRANDFATHER’S Hyatt and oversees the hotel’s eight award-
guaranteed to give you a night to remember. Established 40 years ago, Grandfather’s is the current daddy of the city’s winning restaurants including the iconic
By Kunihiro Miki vintage music bar scene. The snug venue pioneered a playlist style that New York Grill. He has lived and worked in
was uncommon at the time, blending together rock LPs one song at a Shinjuku for four years – who better then to
time. Today, the tunes are a selection of popular music (mainly AOR,
funk and soul) from the ’70s, when vinyl records were mainstream. After guide us through the area’s best late-night
all these years, the interior is unchanged but well maintained, adding an bars and restaurants?
extra level of charm to the music.
à Flat Bldg B1F, 1-24-7 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3407 9505. grandfather.jp/shibuya.
Daily 5pm-3am.
INTRO KOARA
The jazz-focused Intro is narrow and One of Shibuya’s many ‘box clubs’, this DJ
cramped, even by Tokyo standards bar in the back streets of the Jinnan district
where almost every bar is ‘intimate’, is known for hosting the occasional secret
but the warm welcome compensates set from big-name spinners. No matter who
for the lack of elbow room. There is playing the small dance floor, 20 is a crowd
is live music three to four nights a here, meaning more enthusiastic foot tapping
week, but it’s more of a casual ‘drop and less aggressive booty-shaking. The
in and play’ affair than a polished gig capital’s audiophiles praise Koara’s sound
experience. This adds to the charm system as one of the finest in town – hear it
though and anyone from students for yourself on the weekend, when up-and-
to moonlighting stars can be found coming local spinners usually take charge of
jamming away on any given night. proceedings. Entrance fees are rare and drinks
à 2-14-8 Takadanobaba, Shinjuku (Takadanobaba are very reasonably priced.
Station). 03 3200 4396. jazzspot.intro.co.jp. Hours vary à B1F, 1-13-15 Jinnan, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 6423 0644. ‘For my perfect night, I’d start in the only plays classical music. This is what Tokyo
by night. koara-tokyo.com. Mon-Thu 9pm-5am, Fri, Sat 9pm-6am, closed Sun. hotel – watching the sunset while having is all about – finding these small little places
some cocktails at the New York Bar (Park where the owners go the extra mile.
Hyatt Tokyo 52F, 3-7-1-2 Nishi-Shinjuku, It’s probably approaching midnight by
Shinjuku, tinyurl.com/TOTnybar, Sun-Wed now, so let’s head to Golden Gai (1 Kabukicho,
5pm-12midnight, Thu-Sat 5pm-1am). Up here Shinjuku, tinyurl.com/TOTgoldengai) and
MUSIC BAR BERKANA TENGU SHOKUDO on the 52nd floor it’s amazing seeing the city its bars. On the way we can make a pitstop
Think ’Tokyo music bar’ Fancy a walk on music’s wild side? change into “night mode”. The sun goes down, at Yoyogi Village (1-28-9 Yoyogi, Shibuya,
and you’ll probably imagine Then make for this Sangenjaya the lights go on and it looks like a computer tinyurl.com/TOTyoyovillage), which is built
something like Berkana: a bar. Its set-up is supremely simple game. And I can’t wait to go and play. from shipping containers. In summer they
moody, classy corner of the – a DJ booth in the back and a So I’d venture south into Nishihara, which put down some sand and create their own
otherwise sterile Yebisu Garden small dance floor – but the tunes is full of tiny neighbourhood restaurants and beach next to some beautiful palm trees. Grab
Place. Its large windows look out on offer are always wonderfully bars. You’re not going to find many tourists a bucket of beers and sit in a deck chair or go
GRANDFATHER'S: MANABU MOROOKA. INTRO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. MUSIC BAR BERKANA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
over the JR train tracks, while eclectic. You might hear spaced- here, but people are friendly. My favourite to the music bar which has thousands of vinyl
the drink menu lists a rotating out disco and house one night, yakitori restaurant, Fuku (3-23-4 Nishihara, records lining the walls.
selection of Japanese craft beer, ‘rare groove’ (obscure soul, jazz Shibuya, 03 3485 3234, 5.30pm-11.30pm, Once we get to Golden Gai I like to play “Bar
more than 200 kinds of whisky, or funk) the next. Partly thanks to closed Wed), is here. It’s very small – 25 people Roulette”. One person picks a street, another
almost as many types of gin and its lack of space, Tengu Shokudo and the place is full. I take guest chefs here picks a number and another left or right.
cocktails crafted by the resident is also the kind of place where when they come and they always love it, Then you go to, say, the third bar on the left of
mixologist. They play jazz and you’re expected to make friends it’s simple but the quality is outstanding. the second street. You walk in and see what
domestic indie pop most nights, with the regulars – something Everything on a stick is incredible, but be sure happens. It never fails. One bar will be playing
but Saturdays see a guest DJ step that shouldn’t be very hard after to try the chicken neck with leeks on top and, if punk, one jazz, one is decorated with dolls’
into the booth and take control of a few drinks, and perhaps a plate you’re feeling adventurous, chicken tail. Finish heads and only spins obscure ’80s J-pop...
the perfectly configured sound of the owner’s homemade gyoza off with green peppers stuffed with cheese and You’re always going to find a place that’s fun.
system – the crystal clear Tannoy or curry. wrapped in bacon. It’s insane. Everything is Hang there for a few hours and then grab some
speakers and powerful McIntosh better wrapped in bacon! ramen before you head home as the sun rises.
HOTEL INTERIOR: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
à KT Sangenjaya 3F, 5-15-11 Taishido, Setagaya

amp will make you feel like you (Sangenjaya Station). tengushokudo.com. Daily So some sake, some skewers and we are off There are some great places in Golden Gai: I
are hearing even old classics for 10pm-5am. to Bar Nakagawa (3-25-5 Nishihara, Shibuya, like Nagi (2F, 1-1-10 Kabukicho, Shinjuku,
the first time. tinyurl.com/TOTnakagawa, 7pm-4am). The tinyurl.com/TOTnagi, 24 hours daily). Order
à Yebisu Garden Place Brick End, 1-13-4 Mita, owner does an amazing Moscow mule – he the tonkotsu – the pork broth will power you up
Meguro (Ebisu Station). 03 6277 3786. classic-inc. infuses the vodka with ginger for two weeks for the walk home as the sun rises between the
jp/berkana. Daily 5pm-2am. and it really kicks. He hand-shapes the ice and skyscrapers.’
Promotional feature
Yoshiyuki
Satoh
Pilot
Age: 41
VIRTUALLY
LOCAL
INSIGHT
INVINCIBLE
Always fancied yourself as a bit of a Top
Gun? The new G-SHOCK, which combines
Japanese craftsmanship with cutting-edge
Yoshiyuki Satoh, an ex-helicopter pilot
technology, is designed for pilots, but this
for Japan’s Maritime Self-Defense Force
tough timepiece has features that will still
(JMSDF), tells us how a watch can be
thrill down on Earth.
the difference between life and death
in extreme situations. When up in the
sky, he relied on the G-Shock’s accuracy,
durability and smart features to ensure
that every mission was a successful one. BLUETOOTH-EQUIPPED GPS OTHER TOUGH FEATURES
How can a watch make a difference important role in monitoring the services and prefectural rescue entrepreneur. But after the 2011
HYBRID WAVE CEPTOR TRIPLE G RESIST
This tough structure is designed
on missions? time and keeping both the pilot units – so the situations we ended earthquake and tsunami, I used to withstand three types of
It makes a difference in many and the base informed. They have up in were always extremely my connections in theJMSDF gravitational acceleration:
ways. For instance, punctuality to jot down every detail of the serious and challenging. In such and the business world to external shocks, centrifugal gravity
was key in the JMSDF. When on mission while flying, so during environments, we relied on the support victims in the disaster and vibrations. So it will easily
missions such as searching for my co-pilot years, I would wear a G-Shock. Having evolved even areas. My business partner stand up to your commute.
submarines, after taking off from watch on my right wrist in order to further, this latest Gravitymaster then told me that I looked so
a destroyer, the very first thing write while always keeping an eye truly is every pilot’s dream watch. motivated and engaged when
we did was communicate with on the time. JMSDF soldiers are making full use of my ability MAGNETIC RESISTANCE
the crews of all helicopters in our ordered to use analogue watches, Now that you’re working on the to help others. That comment A magnetism-resistant plate
team, calibrating our watches and as digital ones can be confusing at ground, is time still a big factor in eventually inspired me to start installed in the module prevents
setting them to the exact same times. And on missions that cover your life? what I’m doing now: working at stoppage or shifting of the hands
time. Especially co-pilots had to multiple time zones, we always I think so, yes, especially as a company based in Tokushima due to magnetic forces.
be aware of the time, reporting referred to GMT (Greenwich I’m still involved with helping prefecture that delivers daily
back to base on everything from Mean Time), so having a watch people. After leaving the JMSDF, essentials to elderly people
flight time to how long we have that could display both that and I co-founded a company to living alone in isolated parts of
left before we run out of fuel. the local time was very helpful. realise my dream of being an the country. CARBON FIBRE INSERT
On particularly sensitive BAND
missions, everything – even Sounds like the G-Shock is the Fine resin parts are installed
GPS reception can be poor in the clouds, inside large buildings
landing on a ship in the middle perfect watch for a pilot, then? at both ends of the band shaft
and underground. To compensate, the GPW-2000 features both
of the sea – needed to be done in It is. During my time in the and fixed with carbon stoppers,
Bluetooth connectivity and a dedicated smartphone app, developed
darkness. In those cases, having JMSDF, I used a G-Shock, as did strengthening the connections
exclusively for the Gravitymaster line. When adjusting the time, the
the correct time was absolutely most of my colleagues. Actually, between case and band.
watch automatically chooses either Bluetooth or GPS depending
essential. I also used to check I recently talked to my former on whichever signal is stronger, ensuring that you’ll always have the
the fluorescent dial on my watch co-workers who are still in the correct time anywhere in the world.
to keep my eyes adjusted to the force and they told me how This means you get:
conditions. You could say time reliable the watch is. I completely - Automatic time adjustment to let you know the time whichever zone
was the common language of the agree with them. In my last five you are in
team on missions. years before resigning, I was - World time for over 300 cities, automatically accounting
part of a rescue crew. The JMSDF for daylight saving time
So pilots always need to be aware of rescue team is the asset of last - A nifty flight log function which tracks your route –
the time? resort – they’d only call on us be it across the city or across the skies GPW-2000-1AJF GPW-2000-1A2JF
Right, co-pilots play a particularly after contacting ambulance (¥100,000 plus tax) (¥100,000 plus tax)
For more information on Casio’s latest timepieces and where to purchase yours, visit world.g-shock.com
Eating &
Drinking
YUKI NODA AT KIKI
Hidden away in a quiet back alley just steps
Cooking up
from the hustle and bustle of Harajuku lies
Kiki, the domain of haute cuisine wizard Yuki
Noda. Having moved to France at 22, Noda (now
34) worked at venerable Paris establishment
Taillevent before returning to Japan to take
a storm
TAICHI HARA AND YUICHI GOTO AT PATH up the sous chef position under Christophe
Having brought a puff pastry-powered bromance Paucod at Kagurazaka’s Lugdunum Bouchon
to its logical conclusion, chef Taichi Hara, 36, and Lyonnais. Noda went independent in 2011,
pâtissier Yuichi Goto, 36, teamed up two years ago leaving behind the hallowed halls of Michelin-
to open Path and the duo’s bistro-café has already starred restaurants in favour of a more casual
become a sensation in Shibuya’s Tomigaya. After a setting in the form of Kiki. Hoping to attract
spell together at the Hyatt Regency hotel’s Cuisines a young clientele with seven-course dinners
Mikako Mochizuki counts down the five Michel Troisgros, Hara left to open Bistro Rojiura in priced at a reasonable ¥5,000, he is particularly
most exciting young chefs making a splash Shibuya, while Goto went on to become the first Asian fond of seasonal fruit and berries. His salade
in Tokyo’s culinary scene chief pâtissier at Troisgros’s flagship restaurant in France. lyonnaise combines Indian mustard, arugula
Reunited they’ve ditched the formal white tablecloths and and beets with strawberries and raspberries,
starched chef’s coats and made Path a laidback delight. bacon and chickpeas. Relying exclusively
The breakfasts are renowned. Baked by Goto every morning, on Japanese ingredients, he believes that
SHUSAKU TOBA AT GRIS the croissants made with homemade raisin yeast often sell French cuisine on these shores should
Foregoing the customary apprenticeships abroad, 32-year-old Shusaku Toba studied the art of both out in a few hours, whereas Hara’s dutch pancakes, topped aim to reveal the ‘non-Japanese side’ of
Italian and French cooking right here in Tokyo. Toba’s homeboy attitude has resulted in an incredible with uncured ham, burrata and copious amounts of maple domestic produce.
fusion of washoku and cuisine française. At Gris in Yoyogi-Uehara, he conjures up artistic dishes such as syrup, are what make eager gourmands trek across town and Lunch ¥3,800, dinner ¥5,000, à la carte
the cacao nib foie gras sakura. This bonsai-inspired dish consists of a foie gras mousse and macaron base queue up before the 8am opening time. Breakfast ¥1,000- available.
paired with essentially Japanese ingredients including miso, buckwheat seeds, and cherry blossoms ¥2,000, dinner ¥5,800, à la carte available. à 6-9-9 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 070
pickled in salt. The slightly bitter cacao nibs sprinkled on top provide the finishing touch. Toba, who aims à A-Flat Bldg, 1-44-2 Tomigaya, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Koen Station). 03 6407 0011. tinyurl. 3882 3150. kikioishii.com. 11.30am-12midnight, closed Wed.
to create flavours ‘unique to Tokyo’, also dreams of making his place an international destination – if Toba com/TOTpathtokyo. 8am-2pm, 6pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), closed Mon, one
won’t go to the world, then the world will come to Toba. Lunch ¥4,500, dinner ¥7,000. Sunday per month (irregularly).
à Daiichi Ueharado Bldg 1F, 1-35-3 Uehara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6804 7607. gris-yoyogiuehara.com. 6pm-9pm (lunch Sat, Sun & hols only
12noon-1.30pm), closed Wed, 2nd Tue of the month.
MASAKAZU TAIRA AT DON BRAVO KAZUNARI NAKAMURA AT LA BONNE TABLE

A restaurant that can raise the profile of an entire neighbourhood is a It’s no exaggeration to say that Shinobu Namae, head chef at the
rarity, but Italian eatery Don Bravo has managed just that out west in magnificent L’Effervescence in Nishi-Azabu, owes some of his fame
Kokuryo. 38-year-old chef Masakazu Taira’s ‘Italian food unique to to Kazunari Nakamura. The double-Michelin-starred master’s right-
Japan’ is the product of a long culinary journey: after kicking off his hand man for years, Nakamura struck out on his own in 2014, taking
GRIS, DON BRAVO, PATH, LA BONNE TABLE: KISA TOYOSHIMA. KIKI: KEISUKE TANIGAWA.
career under the revered Tosei Hayashi at much-missed Hiroo eatery over La Bonne Table – a casual alternative to his very fancy former
Acca, Taira honed his craft at several Michelin-starred establishments haunt. Still only 36, the jovial cook has earned many a fan with dishes
in Italy before returning to Japan for one more apprenticeship such as the artistic shiitake mushroom boudin noir narazuke, all made
in Tokyo. Having broken out on his own in 2012, the patient chef with ingredients delivered fresh directly from farms and fishermen.
chose to set up Don Bravo in his humble home hood of Kokuryo. The His harmonious symbiosis of Western and Japanese flavours is made
local flavour is pronounced in Taira’s dishes, which are made with by cutting small slits into the stems of the mushrooms, baking them
ingredients sourced from across Japan. In summer, the prix fixe until fragrant, and then combining these with boudin sausage and
meals start with an ayu (sweetfish) confit of mascarpone mousse, vegetables pickled in sake lees. While everything packs a punch,
bettara-zuke pickles, pickled Kagata cucumber and kale powder – a there’s more to La Bonne Table than flavour. Nakamura is dedicated
wonderfully summery dish that’ll have you feeling the season as to ecological eating, using ingredients and cuts of meat that might be
soon as the plate is laid in front of you. So what are you waiting for? discarded at more expensive places. ‘Edible ingredients are a limited
Make like the Village People and go west. Lunch from ¥1,100, dinner resource,’ he says. ‘So I strive to serve sustainable food.’ Lunch ¥3,960,
¥5,000/¥7,000/¥10,000. dinner ¥8,250 (à la carte available after 8.30pm).
à 3-6-43 Kokuryocho, Chofu (Kokuryo Station). 042 482 7378. www.donbravo.net. 11.30am-3pm, à Coredo Muromachi 2 1F, 2-3-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi, Chuo (Mitsukoshimae Station). 03 3277 6055.
6pm-11pm, closed Wed. labonnetable.jp. 11.30am-1.30pm, 6pm-9.30pm, closed every second Wed.
Eating & Drinking Eating & Drinking
Gyoza
IKEJIRI GYOZA
Relying on the gyoza-making magic of septuagenarian superchef
Madame Rose, this Ikejiri-Ohashi shop is so welcoming and homely
you’ll want to move in. Rose used to only make gyoza for her family
revolution
before being persuaded to make her dumplings public by a business-
minded acquaintance, and the home comforts remain. Start with
the Hajimari no Zen (‘beginning platter’), which lets you sample five
different types of carefully crafted gyoza, including a chicken-coriander
variety, a veg-only version, and gyoza large enough to house a whole
shrimp. They all pale in comparison to our favourite, the Aoba gyoza,
The beloved comfort food is having a new which features soft, moist skin infused with chicken broth and, it’s said,
can only be perfectly recreated by Madame Rose herself. Got someone
moment in the sun. By Yasuhisa Shimbo to impress? Opt for the garlic-free, ginger-flavoured dumplings, which
were added to the menu at the request of the many club hostesses that
used to frequent the shop back when it was still based in Shinjuku.
GYOZA, THE JAPANESE, pan-fried version of China’s boiled à 2-26-6 Ikejiri, Setagaya (Ikejiri-Ohashi Station). 03 6453 1968. 11.30am-2.30pm (Wed-Sat),
or steamed ‘jiaozi’ dumpling, has long been an essential 4pm-12midnight (last orders 11pm), closed Mon, 2nd Sun of the month.
snack enjoyed by everyone from ravenous five-year-olds
to inebriated salarymen in need of a late-night stamina
boost. Gyoza is now even being adopted by aficionados of YANGXIANG AJIBO
Japanese food overseas, with fancy ‘gyoza bars’ springing Ajibo, a Kanda eatery renowned for its northeastern Chinese cuisine, is
up in cities like Paris, New York and London recently. But one of the city’s top purveyors of all things lamb. Yangxiang Ajibo, its newly
back at the source, there’s some intriguing innovation opened and wonderfully casual Okachimachi sister branch, upholds this
going on: here, we look at five Tokyo specialists that, tradition while adding a few twists to the menu. Don’t miss the boiled
while embracing tradition, offer new and exciting takes Yangxiang gyoza, stuffed with lamb and coriander and neatly wrapped
ANDA GYOZA on the humble dumpling. in a house-made dumpling that can barely contain the explosion of juicy
Anda Gyoza in Yoyogi-Uehara has to be one of the most laidback eateries in all flavour. And as with the original Ajibo, the wine list is carefully curated:
of Tokyo. No surprise then that the owner tells us it was always intended to be a look out for natural wines picked out by Shinsaku Katayama, the owner of
place for casual snacking – a diner you could stop by in your pyjamas if so inclined. pioneering Roppongi wine bar Shonzui. With reasonable prices, a down-
Unlike at most gyoza joints in town, Anda’s dumplings are boiled, not fried, making to-earth atmosphere and the best lamb gyoza in town, this spot is already
them light and stomach-friendly even late at night. The dough they use is made wildly popular – best book a seat while you still can.
from whole-grain pearl barley, while the edges of the dumplings are tucked in so à3-12-6 Ueno, Taito (Okachimachi Station). 03 6803 0168. Mon-Fri 11.30am-11pm, Sat, Sun & hols
as to give them a cute, flower-like appearance. In another break from tradition, 1pm-10pm.
all four fillings on the menu are completely garlic- and chive-free. Choose from
ginger-cabbage, coriander-cucumber (both mixed with chicken), pickles-daikon
or curry-carrot (mixed with pork). Combine your pick with a serving of minced
pork rice or a bowl of lightly flavoured seaweed soup. Drinkers will want to check
out the fearsome Baijiu highball.
à 3-21-2 Nishihara, Shibuya (Yoyogi-Uehara Station). 03 6407 8813. andagyoza.tumblr.com. 11.30am-11pm, closed Tue.
GYOZA SHACK
As the name implies, this Sangenjaya eatery is
ANDA GYOZA, GYOZA BAR COMME A PARIS, IKEJIRI GYOZA: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. GYOZA SHACK, YANGXIANG AJIBO: YASUHISA SHIMBO
low on airs and graces. Thankfully it is big on
gyoza, serving up the most innovative bundles
of goodness in western Tokyo. Additives are
off the table completely, the dough is made
with whole-grain flour and the voluminous
dumplings are filled with offbeat organic
ingredients. Their signature Shack gyoza
incorporate heirloom Shonai pork from
Yamagata prefecture and are big enough
to satisfy even the most ravenous eaters.
Some of the gyoza dishes can be ordered in
either pan-fried, boiled or deep-fried form,
giving you room for customisation – and an
GYOZA BAR COMME A PARIS excuse for repeat visits. None of the Shack’s
For most gyoza fans, the dumplings are meant to be washed down with beer – but creations contain garlic or chives, but garlic
the good folks at this hip Aoyama joint are going against the grain, and pairing their oil is provided at each table should you need
dumplings with wine. Both their meat and vegetable gyoza are made without any an extra kick. Wash it all down with a glass of
garlic, which apparently makes them supremely vino-friendly. Excellent homemade natural wine or some junmai daiginjo sake
sauces with flavours such as Provence herb and white miso add to the French fusion from Yamagata’s Tatenokawa brewery, and
feel, while dishes such as ‘onion gratin gyoza’ further blur the culinary borders. In finish off with a plate of banana- and cream
addition to the myriad variety of bottles on offer, you can also grab a good selection cheese-filled ‘dessert gyoza’.
by the glass – there are always two options available for red, white or sparkling. à 2-3-10 Sangenjaya, Setagaya (Sangenjaya Station). 03 6805 4665.
à Aoyama Alcove 205, 2-2-4 Shibuya, Shibuya (Omotesando Station). 03 6427 6116. www.aoyama-gyozabar.com. Mon-Sat 5pm-2am (last orders 1am), Sun & hols 5pm-12midnight
4pm-11.45pm, closed Sun. (11pm).
Promotional feature
Eating & Drinking
LOCAL
A timeless timepiece
INSIGHT
Wrap stars RELEASED IN 1969, Seiko’s Quartz Astron is a symbol of the company’s unwavering
dedication to improving its products. The world’s first quartz watch, it breathed new life
into the industry and has evolved constantly ever since, with the Seiko Astron becoming
Mari Hiratsuka points you in the direction the first GPS solar watch on the market in 2012. Today, it is recognised as one of the finest
of Tokyo’s finest falafel and most reliable high performance watches out there, an emblem of refined class.
FINDING A PROPER FALAFEL joint in the capital can be a

bit of a mission. One of the most culinarily diverse places
RESTLESS
on earth, Tokyo appears to have a bit of a blind spot when it
INNOVATION
comes to food from the Middle East. But, if you know where
While other GPS solar
to look, the city is home to some absolutely superb falafel
watches have followed
– though you might need to trek halfway across town to get
Seiko’s lead, the ever-
your hands on it. Here are our five favourites.
evolving Astron has taken
advantage of its pioneer
status to stay a step AUTOMATIC TIME
ahead of the competition. ADJUSTMENT
These are the latest As soon as the Astron’s dial comes
developments that ensure into contact with sunlight, the watch
the Astron continues to
PITA THE GREAT: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. FALAFEL BROTHERS: MARI HIRATSUKA

springs into life – automatically
lead while others follow. THE GPS MODULE adjusting the time in five seconds.
KUUMBA DU FALAFEL UCHIMURA EGYPTIAN DELI SHOP Receiving a GPS signal traditionally What if the weather’s poor or the
Shibuya’s best falafel shop is harder to find Run by a Japanese woman with an Egyptian consumes quite a bit of electricity, watch is hidden up your sleeve? Not
than a bashful chameleon. Perched on a husband, this inconspicuous and homely SEIKO RING ANTENNA but Seiko’s innovative GPS module to worry: the Astron’s smart sensor
highway intersection a good 15 minutes’ walk deli in Higashi-Kitazawa does its falafel a The powerful ring-shaped antenna has all the connectivity while using memorises the previously received
from Shibuya Station, it doesn’t even have a little differently. Here you’ll find a southern below the Astron’s bezel can receive much less power, making it possible time and adjusts to the correct time
sign outside to indicate that you’ve found the Egyptian take on the flavour bombs, made with GPS signals at any angle. to receive the signal more frequently. accordingly.
right place. Culinary pilgrims will be rewarded dried fava broad beans rather than chickpeas.
for their persistence, though: Kuumba du They’re often eaten plain in Egypt, but you can
Falafel’s sandwiches (¥1,200, half size ¥880) have them in a pita sandwich (¥540) topped
are superb, crammed with so much fresh veg,
fried aubergine, hummus and tahini sauce
that they’re almost impossible to eat without
with pickles, tomato and sesame sauce. Lamb
and chicken kebabs, Egyptian stew, and fried
chicken bentos are also on offer. There’s only
New forms
making a mess. If you’re eating in, try adding room for eight diners inside, so when the sun’s
some of the spicy sauce available at the tables out, get your food to go and head for the nearby
IO D
IT TE
N
for an extra kick. form. You can choose your toppings from Kitazawa Park.
ED IMI
à 23-1 Shinsencho, Shibuya (Shinsen Station). 03 6416 8396. a selection of ten or so options, including à 3-2-11 Kitazawa, Setagaya (Higashi-Kitazawa Station). 03 3468
L
tinyurl.com/TOTkuumba. 11.30am-2.30pm, 5.30pm-8.30pm (Sun burdock kinpira, beetroot, carrot and jalapeño, 2715. tinyurl.com/TOTuchimura. 11am-3pm, 5pm-8.30pm, closed
11.30am-6.30pm), closed Mon. and wash it all down with a bottle of Maccabee Sun, 3rd Mon of the month.
beer. The full-size falafel sandwich goes for a
PITA THE GREAT reasonable ¥900 and is large enough to satisfy TA-IM
No prizes for guessing what the speciality is at the biggest of appetites, while a half size costs The chance to strike up conversation with
this long-running Tameike-Sanno takeaway, ¥500 and the salad bowl can be had for ¥1,000. friendly owner Dan Zuckerman is one of
which opened back in 1993. Pita the Great Add in the unbeatable location – right behind the many attractions at this casual Israeli
prepares its bread in-store, and you’ll notice Roppongi Station – and you’ve got yourself restaurant roughly halfway between Ebisu and SBXB121: GUIGIARO DESIGN –
customers surreptitiously brushing flour from a winner. Hiroo. At lunchtime, you can choose from six
FOR THE ACTIVE AND STYLISH GENTLEMAN
their clothes while they wait for their orders to à 5-1-10 Roppongi, Minato (Roppongi Station). 03 6459 2844. types of pita sandwich, including ones filled
Created in collaboration with Giorgetto Giugiaro, one of
arrive. The shop’s signature falafel sandwich tinyurl.com/TOTfalafelbros. 11am-10pm, closed Sun. with falafel (¥1,180) and chicken schnitzel
the 20th century’s most influential supercar designers,
(aka the ‘Big Pita’, ¥900) is a real piece of work, (¥1,280). In the evening, the menu broadens
only 3,000 of these limited-edition watches have been
filled with roughly shaped patties that are fried to include baba ghanoush, kebabs and other
manufactured. Released at the end of May, the watch
to order, plus sauerkraut, salad, tahini and Middle Eastern favourites, while the drink list
incorporates the essence of luxury Italian engineering,
either tomato or spicy sauce. It’s a substantial extends to Maccabee beer and Israeli wines.
boasting a fluid form with the country’s colours and a
meal as is, but for an extra ¥80 you can chuck à 1-29-16 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). 03 5424 2990. tinyurl.
dial placed in an asymmetric position from the band.
on an additional topping of fried potatoes or com/TOTtaim. 11.30am-2.30pm, 6pm-11pm (last orders
Perfect for collectors and car lovers alike.
onion. Just be prepared for the inevitable food 10pm), Sun 6pm-10pm (9pm), closed Wed.
coma that will follow. Be warned the opening SBXB123: EXECUTIVE LINE –
hours are somewhat flexible, with the shop
FOR THE STYLISH EXECUTIVE ON
often closing early. SBXB121
à ATT Shinkan 2F, 2-11-7 Akasaka, Minato (Tameike-Sanno Station). THE MOVE SBXB123 Seiko Astron Giugiaro Design
03 5563 0851. tinyurl.com/TOTpita. Hours vary. With a sapphire crystal bezel – a first Executive Line Limited Edition
for the series – and sleek new casing, ¥250,000(plus tax) ¥300,000 (plus tax)
the latest addition to the Astron family Case size: 51.4 x 46.1mm
FALAFEL BROTHERS Titanium case
Case size: 54.4 x 46.3mm
Shaking things up in Roppongi since February offers a clearer view and a luxurious Titanium case
Sapphire crystal Sapphire crystal
2017, the takeout-only Falafel Brothers has look for the itinerant executive seeking
shot straight into Tokyo’s falafel hall of fame understated and effortless style.
with its fried-to-order, crispy and gluten-free
treats, served in both sandwich and salad

Shopping THE EYE TEAM
The sunglasses shops leaving
everyone else in the shade
& Style
Fresh MAKANAI COSME KONNYAKU SPONGE
Long heralded as a super food, it looks like
konjac could save your skin too. This sponge is
OIL-BLOTTING FACIAL
PAPER ‘ABURATORIGAMI’
A subtle skin saviour, these luxurious
blotting sheets will wipe away everything
KAMURO
What once began as a small eyeglass shop in Ginza has now turned
faced
made from natural fibres derived from the root summer throws at your skin and are made into a full-blown business. Kamuro’s styles and colours are as quirky
of the konjac plant and expertly exfoliates and from delicate washi (traditional Japanese) as it gets, while the frames are made to fit gently around a variety of
cleanses the skin after a long day out in the heat. paper. The sheets won’t disturb the make- nose types. Have fun trying on their glasses for a fashion-forward
The sponge contains natural moisture-rich up that’s already applied on your face, look that might make it a bit hard to pick out just one. From ¥25,000.
properties so you don’t even need any soap – just while still maintaining the health and à 7-5-19 Ginza, Chuo (Ginza Station). 03 5537 5886. kamuro-net.co.jp. 11am-8pm (7pm on Sun),
make sure to wash your face before using it. ¥756. vitality of your skin. It’s an ingenious item closed Tue.
à Makanai Kagurazaka, 3-1 Kagurazaka, Shinjuku (Iidabashi Station). for those summer touch-ups on the go.
03 3235 7663. makanaicosmetics.co.jp. Mon-Sat 10.30am-8pm, Sun Starting at ¥440.
Summer got you feeling all hot & hols 11am-7pm. à Yojiya Haneda Airport, 2-6 Haneda Airport, Ota. www.
and bothered? Here are some of yojiya.co.jp/pages/haneda-dfs.html. 24 hours daily.
our favourite summer beauty and
skincare products to cool you down.
By Kaila Imada BIORE UV AQUA RICH WATERY ESSENCE SPF 50+
The one thing that absolutely everyone should be
SAKURAJIMA TSUBAKI OIL wearing this summer, sunscreen is a Tokyo essential
Rich in antioxidants, this multi-purpose oil has been used come rain or shine. The city’s rays have a habit of
for centuries as a moisturiser for both the skin and hair. As catching people out, so layer up with Biore’s finest.
a facial moisturiser it can protect against environmental Featuring a sky high SPF and waterproof properties
CANMAKE CREAM CHEEK exposure, but it is on the locks that it comes into its own, perfect for the sweaty months, it is one of the best
This cheek-coloured cream gives you a healthy taming those frizzy flyaway hairs and keeping things smooth suncreams going. ¥864. MASUNAGA 1905
glow all season long and comes in a handy little and sleek when the humidity gets a bit unbearable. ¥1,200 à Most drugstores around town. This famed framer has been turning out one-of-a-kind Japanese-
compact which can easily be slipped into any for 100ml. made frames from Fukui prefecture since 1905. Their flagship store
bag or travel case. Its silky gel-like consistency à D47 Design Travel Store, Shibuya Hikarie 8F, 2-21-1 Shibuya, Shibuya (Shibuya in Kita-Aoyama offers an exclusive array of frames and sunglasses
dries easily after application and won’t melt Station). 03 6427 2301. hikarie8.com/d47designtravelstore. that lean heavily on timeless styles. Each pair of glasses are lovingly
during the summer months. ¥580. Daily 11am-8pm. handmade with over 200 steps to turn raw materials into eyewear
à All Loft stores in Tokyo. loft.omni7.jp/fair/canmake. perfection. From ¥35,000.
KEANA NADESHIKO RICE MASK à 2-12-34 Kita-Aoyama, Minato (Gaienmae Station). 03 3403 1905. masunaga1905.com.
This hydrating mask is made 11am-8pm, closed 1st & 3rd Tue of the month.
from organic Japanese rice with a
nourishing serum of ingredients SOLAKZADE
derived from sake, rice bran oil and Not your typical eyewear shop, Solakzade’s Harajuku boutique is
rice ceramides. Just apply it on home to a distinctive range of vintage and antique styles sourced
your face whenever you need a cool from Japan and around the globe. The shop has a particularly
down. ¥650. broad selection of styles in its 10,000-frame trove, including a few
à Ainz & Tulpe Harajuku, 1F & B1F, 1-13-14 shades that date back all the way to the 1800s. The basement of the
Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). shop is reserved for customisation, restoration and repair, where
03 5775 0561. ainz-tulpe.jp. Daily 10am-11pm. their expert team are also able to create the perfect pair of bespoke
glasses. Vintage glasses from ¥20,000.
à B1F, 4-29-4 Jingumae, Shibuya (Meiji-Jingumae Station). 03 3478 3345. solakzade.com.
3pm-8pm (Wed by appointment only).
KISS ME HEROINE MAKE VOLUME AND CURL MASCARA SPECTACLES MUSEUM

SHISEIDO MEDICATED BABY POWDER SUPER WATERPROOF From the more is more school of thought, The Spectacles Museum
Use this nifty powder compact during the warmer months A waterproof mascara which comes in perfect black, Kiss Me boasts rack upon rack of budget-friendly frames. While it can make
to keep that not-so-pleasant facial shine under control. Heroine Make has enough volume to give your lashes pow without for a dizzying browsing experience, you’re sure to emerge with a
Although it’s labelled as a baby powder, it also works for tipping you into goth territory. The best part? It even holds your unique pair of sunglasses at a friendly price. From ¥280.
adults, is gentle on the face and doubles as a finishing lashes’ curl through the most humid of weather, when other à 3-16-9 Minami-Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). 03 3984 5652. rougan-megane-
powder to set make-up before heading out the door. ¥350. mascaras wilt leaving lashes sad and limp. ¥1,000. hakubutsukan.com. 10.30am-7pm, closed Wed.
à All Don Quijote stores and most drugstores in Tokyo. à Most drugstores around town.
Shopping & Style Shopping & Style
Take it
Maunga Kichijoji
Both a buyer and seller of outdoor clothing
and camping equipment, Maunga is a
superb destination for those on the lookout
for secondhand gear at reasonable prices.
outside
Cleaned and repaired, the items are ranked by
condition – A to D – and priced accordingly.
Most of the stuff on display is graded B or C, and
are about half the price they’d be new. You’ll
find shoes, clothing, backpacks, hats, cooking
utensils, lamps and tents, with available brands
including local stalwarts Montbell, Keen
and Gregory.
à 1-3-9 Gotenyama, Musashino (Kichijoji Station). 0422 24 7630.
www.maunga.jp. Daily 12noon-9pm.
Five Tokyo shops worth visiting for campers,
hikers and climbers. By Shiori Kotaki
WITH SUMMER FESTIVAL SEASON already upon us and

the city quickly getting too hot for comfort, it’s time to head
out into the great outdoors. But hiking in sneakers or trying
to desperately pitch your parents’ old tent when the rain is
already pouring down can make anyone want to turn into a
couch potato. Avoid equipment mishaps and get geared up
the right way at these four Tokyo shops, which will have you
looking the part in no time. And for those who’d rather rent
than buy, we’ve included a one-stop hire outlet as well.
Akishima Moripark Outdoor Village Yamadogu Rental Shop

For more variety than you could ever ask for, make for this cluster of
If you’re a less committed camper – or simply don’t fancy
14 outdoor-focused stores way out in Tokyo’s western suburbs. The
flying back with three times the luggage – stop by this
shop selection at Moripark Outdoor Village includes clothing, bag
Shinjuku dealer for a quick rental. They allow you to bring
and tent specialists, plus big-name brand outlets such as Coleman
the gear back straight after use, without worrying about
and The North Face. There’s also an insole processing service that’ll
cleaning or carrying it all the way back to Tokyo – use the
help you attain the perfect fit for your walking or hiking boots. Our
COD slip provided to drop your item off for return shipping
favourite is the bouldering and yoga gym, which can be used by
at the nearest convenience store. Two days with a seven-
anyone who completes the registration process.
piece hiking set, which includes rainwear, trekking poles,
And when you tire of all the shopping, head for the central plaza
a backpack and shoes, can be had for ¥13,000, while more
and its three restaurants and cafés.
expensive packages also come with helmets. Individual
à 610-4 Tanakacho, Akishima (Akishima Station). 042 541 0700. outdoorvillage.tokyo/lang/
pieces of clothing are also available, so music festival-goers
index.html. Mon, Tue, Thu, Fri 11am-8pm, Sat, Sun & hols 10am-8pm, closed Wed.
can easily pick up an extra layer of wear in advance just to be
on the safe side. See their English-language website for a full
list of items and reservations.
MORIPARK OUTDOOR VILLAGE, MAUNGA, MONTBELL: KISA TOYOSHIMA. L-BREATH, YAMADOGU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
à 6F, 1-13-7 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 050 5865 1615. www.
yamarent.com/en?language=en. 12noon-7pm, closed Tue.
Montbell Futako-Tamagawa
L-Breath Shinjuku A Japanese outdoor brand founded by
In addition to an enviable location – just two minutes’ mountaineer Isamu Tatsuno in 1975, Montbell
walk from Shinjuku Station’s southeast exit – this urban set up its latest Tokyo outpost in Futako-
megastore stands out with its unparalleled lineup of Tamagawa in April this year. Specialising
camping gear, sportswear, hiking boots and cycling gear. in items that are light and easy to carry, they
The ten-storey complex is almost too large to take on in one currently operate 13 outlets across the city,
go, so you might want to check out only a few floors at first. with this two-storey one being one of the
The standout section is on the third floor, where more than largest. On the ground floor you’ll find the
500 backpacks of all shapes and sizes line the walls. You’ll Stretch Wind Parka, a supremely flexible jacket
find everything from serious hiking packs to kids’ versions, that, although not 100 percent waterproof,
with even more stock hidden away in the back. Detailed can handle light rain and makes for the perfect
explanations for each backpack are written in Japanese on emergency solution when the weather turns
labels near each bag, while English-speakers will find the sour up in the mountains.
expert staff more helpful. à Q Plaza Futako-Tamagawa 1-2F, 2-24-1 Tamagawa, Setagaya
à 4-1-11 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku Station). 03 3354 8951. www.victoria.co.jp/ (Futako-Tamagawa Station). 03 6805 7918. en.montbell.jp. Daily
taxfree/english. 11am-9pm (Sun & hols until 8.30pm). 10am-9pm.
‘It’s incredibly
Art & unfortunate that we

seem to be losing our
Culture
public bathing culture,
which was once an
integral part of life
in Tokyo’
OKURAYU
Imai’s newest creation was completed in late
Just add
2016 way out west in Machida. Aiming to
stem the flow of customers leaving Okurayu
for the new ’super sento’ opened nearby, the
owner hired Imai to freshen up his traditional
bathhouse. The architect’s response was to
TOKYO’S TOP FIVE
water
cut down on, well, everything – an approach
that resulted in what could be Tokyo’s most
minimalist soak spot.
à 522 Kisomachi, Machida (Kobuchi Station). 042 723 5664.
Sento ookurayu.com. 2pm-11pm, closed Fri.
Kunihiro Miki meets sento architect Kentaro

Imai, who is pouring new life into Tokyo’s
bathhouse culture
MIKOKUYU
Teaming up with the second-generation
owner, whose dream had been to turn his
designed by
IN 1968, FOUR YEARS after the first Tokyo
Olympics, there were 2,660 sento bathhouses
all-encompassing concept and coming up
with a bespoke design for each bathhouse
bathhouse into a place accessible to everyone,
Imai transformed Mikokuyu in Azumabashi
into a completely barrier-free sento. The
most visible symbol of this rebirth is the fully
Kentaro Imai
in Tokyo. Today that number stands at 600 together with the operator and regulars. This accessible family bath on the ground floor,
– a dramatic drop that is reflected across the approach is standard practice in most Japanese which can be rented out by groups.
country and concisely illustrates how serious renovation projects, but was challenging à 3-30-8 Ishiwara, Sumida (Honjo-Azumabashi Station). 03 3623
the issues facing Japan’s public bathing to bring into the sento industry, where 1695. mikokuyu.com. 3.30pm-2am, closed Mon.
culture have become. With even box-sized contractors have historically been given free
studio apartments in Tokyo now coming rein over everything.
equipped with a tub, sleek spa facilities Despite the pioneering nature of his work,
(so-called ‘super sento’) dominating the Imai believes in evolution, not revolution.
market, and the proprietors of old-school ‘It’s incredibly unfortunate that we seem to be
bathing establishments ageing along with their losing our public bathing culture, which was
buildings, there appears to be little that can be once an integral part of life in Tokyo,’ he says.
done to save the sento. ‘In order to make sure that this tradition lives
But where most Tokyoites see crisis, Kentaro on into the future, I try to leave the original style
Imai senses opportunity. An architect who has and details of bathhouses intact while adding
already led the renovation of around 15 sento, new elements that make the experience more
most of them in Tokyo, he is attracting people pleasant. Ideally, the result feels both new
back to the bathhouses with beautiful interiors and familiar.’
that fuse traditional Japanese imagery with Imai is also confident that his reimagined
modern designs. Dubbed ‘designer sento’ bathhouses can encourage the ‘super sento’
by the media, Imai’s creations are winning gang to return to the originals. ‘As long as
over Tokyo’s 20- and 30-somethings – a customers feel satisfied and comfortable,
KENTARO IMAI: MANABU MOROOKA. MIKOKUYU: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
demographic that has previously been they’ll keep coming back,’ he says. ‘If you have
considered far less passionate about public the right concept, that’s possible – you don’t KOHMEISEN TAIHEIYU CHIYONOYU
bathing than their parents and grandparents. have to install a huge number of different baths Kohmeisen reopened in 2014 in the heart of Imai’s first bathhouse project was the With its deep blue wall tiles and high ceiling,
Imai has also been instrumental in introducing or turn yourself into a spa.’ Although the sento trendy Nakameguro. A rotenburo (outside wholesale renovation of this Adachi-ku sento one corner of Meguro’s Chiyonoyu resembles
the concept of accessibility to sento operators, industry’s structural struggles, most notably bath) is available on only one side of the sento, completed in 2001. Making the most of the a cave. An Imai original, this quirky bath is
emphasising the removal of stairs and steps the difficulty of recruiting and educating so the men’s and women’s sides are swapped relatively small space, Imai added a lengthy filled with artificially carbonated hot spring
during renovations and making sure that the the next generation of proprietors, won’t be every week to allow everyone to experience ‘walk-through bath’ reflecting his vision of water and was designed to be a place to clear
baths he designs have sufficient handrails and resolved overnight, Imai’s work has given rooftop bathing – a rare treat in central Tokyo. how old and cramped Tokyo sento can be your mind. Known as a ‘meditation bath’, it’s
grab bars. fans of communal soaking new hope. We’ll be à 1-6-1 Kamimeguro, Meguro (Nakameguro Station). 03 3463 9793. turned into more open spaces. become a familiar feature at Imai-designed
The city’s relatively few young sento watching his next move closely – who knows, kohmeisen.com. 3pm-1am. à 6-21-3 Aoi, Adachi (Aoi Station). 03 3887 4564. adachi1010. sento across Tokyo.
owners have eagerly come out in support for perhaps public bathhouses are in for another tokyo/member/taiheiyu. 2.30pm-12midnight, closed Mon (Tue if Mon à 2-20-3 Takaban, Meguro (Gakugei-Daigaku Station). 03 3712 1271.
Imai, welcoming his method of creating an post-Olympic golden era? is a holiday). tiyonoyu.com. 7.30am-1am (Mon until 12midnight).
Art & Culture Art & Culture
ESSENTIAL
EXHIBITIONS
New
GIUSEPPE ARCIMBOLDO <SPRING>, 1563, OIL ON OAK WOOD, MADRID, MUSEO DE

shows
to see
LA REAL ACADEMIA DE BELLAS ARTES DE SAN FERNANDO

<HUMIDIFIER> ±0, 2004, NAOTO FUKASAWA DESIGN
YUEN NO ONNA, 2017

Explore the diversity of
Southeast Asian art, look NOBUYOSHI ARAKI: beyond simply explaining the with extreme precision and with
back at the career of a PHOTO-CRAZY A history of notable pieces by cleanly delineated, zigzagging
Japanese photography Nobuyoshi Araki is arguably demonstrating how people of strokes. This show, however,
one of Japan’s greatest living bygone days actually used them in focuses on the resin-based
legend and peek into the
photographers. Having worked their daily lives. You’ll find dishes approach that this pioneering ROGER BALLEN + ASGER
Buddhist underworld at consistently – some would say up to 60cm in diameter from the conceptualist has focused on in CARLSEN: NO JOKE
summer’s best art events maniacally – since the 1960s, Chinese Yuan dynasty (13th-14th his more recent work. Released in Europe last year and
his oeuvre has been met with century) alongside delicate àPerrotin Tokyo, until Aug 19. Piramide Bldg 1F, now taking over the Diesel Gallery
exalted praise and deep criticism Japanese platters from the 17th 6-6-9 Roppongi, Minato. tinyurl.com/TOTsoulages. for its first Japan showing, ‘No
JIZO AND THE TEN KINGS OF HELL, COLOR ON SILK, EDO PERIOD, TOKAKU-JI, TOKYO (10/13)
alike, with people divided over century onward. After poring 11am-7pm, closed Sun, Mon. Joke’ is a 37-image collaborative
its sensual, occasionally semi- over these beauties for a couple series that brings together two
AMBIENT: LIFESTYLE ITEMS SUNSHOWER: CONTEMPORARY pornographic imagery. This of hours, you’ll never look at your ARCIMBOLDO: NATURE INTO ART giants of the photography world.
DESIGNED BY NAOTO FUKASAWA ART FROM SOUTHEAST ASIA mega-show sees more than 1,000 own dishes in the same way. Milan-born artist Giuseppe American Roger Ballen has been
Product designer Naoto Fukasawa 1980S TO NOW of the divisive snapper’s newer àNezu Museum, Jul 13-Sep 3. 6-5-1 Minami- Arcimboldo both charmed based in South Africa for more
has worked for everyone from Roppongi is experiencing a photographs displayed alongside Aoyama, Minato. 03 3400 2536. tinyurl.com/ and confused his 16th-century than three decades and made his
ALBERTO GIACOMETTI <WALKING MAN I > BRONZE 1960 ARCHIVES
no-brand giant Muji to Italian complete Southeast Asian art scrapbooks from Araki’s early TOTnezuceramics. 10am-5pm, closed Mon (except contemporaries with fanciful name documenting the poor and
homeware company Alessi, while takeover this summer, as both years. One of the underlying Jul 17) & Jul 18. portrait heads made of items forgotten segment of that society,
FONDATION MAEGHT, SAINT-PAUL DE VENCE (FRANCE)
several of his designs have also the National Art Center and the themes here is the relation such as fruits, vegetables, flowers, while Dane Asger Carlsen is famed
been added to the permanent Mori Art Museum dedicate their between life and death, which is PIERRE SOULAGES fish and books. Rediscovered for his often creepy but always
exhibition at New York’s MoMA. vast halls to contemporary works also the red line tying all of Araki’s The new Perrotin Tokyo is the by the Surrealists in the early engaging shots and sculptures
Considering such heavyweight from across the region. Focusing work together. latest outpost in Emmanuel 20th century, Arcimboldo is now of human bodies. See the duo’s
credentials, it’s surprising that on art from the 1980s up to the Tokyo Opera City Art Gallery, Jul 8-Sep 3. 3-20-2 Perrotin’s gallery empire that considered a pioneer. Centred on a disturbingly impactful creations
this Shiodome display is his first present, ‘Sunshower’ could be Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl. now stretches across eight spaces trove of his oil paintings borrowed in Shibuya throughout summer.
solo exhibition in Japan. The show the most significant exhibition com/TOTaraki. 11am-7pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), in five cities. This inaugural from museums around the world, àDiesel Art Gallery, until Aug 17. B1F, 1-23-14
space is divided into sections of Southeast Asian art Japan closed Mon (except Jul 17), Jul 18 & Aug 6. exhibition pays homage to French ‘Nature into Art’ also includes Shibuya, Shibuya. 03 6427 5955. tinyurl.com/
and decorated to resemble the has ever seen. It consists of nine artist Pierre Soulages, who turns several related materials and works TOTballen. Daily 11.30am-9pm.
rooms of a house, with Fukasawa’s sections, including ‘Passion and WONDERLAND OF BUDDHIST INTRODUCTION TO CERAMICS: an impressive 98 years old this by the artists Arcimboldo inspired.
award-winning appliances, chairs worldwide acclaim only years Revolution’, which focuses on the HELL SCENES DISHES AND PLATES, LARGE year. His connection with Japan àThe National Museum of Western Art, until Sep
and lights installed throughout before his death, also dabbled struggle for democracy in the post- Things are about to get devilishly AND SMALL runs deep, having first exhibited 24. 7-7 Ueno Koen, Taito. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.
to display his work in the in surrealism, abstraction and colonial age, and ‘Day by Day’, hot at the Mitsui Museum, as You’ll be able to learn the ins and on these shores way back in 1951. com/TOTarcimboldo. 9.30am-5.30pm (Fri, Sat until
environment it was meant for – cubism. A total of more than 130 a multifaceted look at everyday this survey of the Buddhist outs of ceramic plates at the Nezu Soulages is best known for works 8pm), closed Mon (except Jul 17, Aug 14 & Sep 18)
YEE I-LANN (B.1971) MALAYSIA, FLUID WORLD (FROM THE SERIES "ORANG BESAR"), 2010, DIRECT DIGITAL MIMAKI
INKJET PRINT, ACID DYE, BATIK CRACKLE JAPANESE INDIGO DYE, 100% SILK TWILL, 140.5 X 298CM, COURTESY:
the home. pieces will be on display, among life in rapidly globalising and netherworld in art introduces Museum’s highly educational that play on the twin extremes
DEMONS, 2016 ©ROGER BALLEN + ASGER CARLSEN, IMAGE COURTESY DITTRICH & SCHLECHTRIEM, BERLIN
& Jul 18.
àPanasonic Shiodome Museum, Jul 8-Oct 1. them the remarkable life-sized economically dynamic societies. Tokyoites to Enma Dai-O, the summer special, which goes of light and darkness, painted
SILVERLENS GALLERIES, MAKATI, THE PHILIPPINES, (EXHIBITED AT THE NATIONAL ART CENTER, TOKYO)
Panasonic Tokyo Shiodome Bldg 4F, 1-5-1 Higashi- sculpture ‘Walking Man I’. àMori Art Museum and The National Art Center, god of Hell, and Ksitigarbha,
GEP #1 PIERRE SOULAGES "PEINTURE", 157 × 222 CM, 28 FÉVRIER 2011”. ACRYLIC ON CANVAS,
Shinbashi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ àThe National Art Center, Tokyo, until Sep 4. 7-22-2 Tokyo, Jul 5-Oct 23. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ the bodhisattva of the damned,
alongside a host of other
FIVE-SIDED DISHES, ZHANGZHOU WARE GROUP,PORCELAIN WITH OVERGLAZE ENAMELS
157 × 222 CM PHOTO : VINENT CUNILLERE ©ADAGP, PARIS 2017 / COURTESY PERROTIN
TOTfukasawa. 10am-6pm, closed Wed & Aug 14-16. Roppongi, Minato. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/ TOTsunshower. Mori Art Museum 10am-10pm
TOTgiacometti. 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 8pm), (Tue until 5pm), The National Art Center, Tokyo fearsome inhabitants of the fiery
ALBERTO GIACOMETTI: closed Tue. 10am-6pm (Fri, Sat until 9pm), closed Tue. realm. In addition to this ghastly
COLLECTION FONDATION cast, the artworks on display
MARGUERITE ET AIMÉ MAEGHT depict the cycle of existence,
Continuing its star-studded paradise and other central
CHINA MING DYNASTY, 17TH CENTURY, NEZU MUSEUM
tenth anniversary programme, elements of Buddhist lore,

which has already seen high- while a lighter touch is provided
profile shows by Yayoi Kusama by select drawings from manga
and Alfons Mucha, the NACT master Shigeru Mizuki’s hell-
is delivering a large-scale themed comics.
retrospective of Swiss sculptor àMitsui Memorial Museum, Jul 15-Sep 3. Mitsui
Alberto Giacometti this summer. Main Building 7F, 2-1-1 Nihonbashi-Muromachi,
Forever associated with the tall, Chuo. 03 5777 8600. tinyurl.com/TOTwonderhell.
spindly, existential figures of his 10am-5pm (Fri until 7pm), closed Mon (except Jul 17
later years, the artist, who found & Aug 14) & Jul 18.
Music
Titanic
BLU-RAY BOX ON SALE VIA KING RECORDS

’NEON GENESIS EVANGELION’
DIRECTOR: HIDEAKI ANNO
tunes
1970s: The emergence of the
©Khara/Project Eva
anime song artist
‘SPACE BATTLESHIP YAMATO’ FROM ‘SPACE BATTLESHIP
1980s-’90s: Anime as social phenomenon YAMATO’ (1974) BY ISAO SASAKI
The 1970s saw the curtain open on a golden age of
‘A CRUEL ANGEL’S THESIS’ FROM ‘NEON GENESIS EVANGELION’ (1995) BY anime. This was the decade that gave rise to classics
Takahiro Takeuchi looks back at the history YOKO TAKAHASHI including ‘Space Battleship Yamato’, ‘Galaxy Express
of anime songs through five timeless hits The term ‘otaku’ (geek, usually one obsessed with anime and manga) was 999’ and ‘Mazinger Z’. The theme music from these
coined in the 1980s and soon they had inherited the earth. Throughout series ended up being major anime song hits and
the ’80s and ’90s anime and manga broke into the mainstream. Hayao were performed by the likes of Isao Sasaki and Ichiro
MUSIC AND JAPANESE ANIME have always been intertwined. Miyazaki’s work at Studio Ghibli was considered art, while franchises
The intro and end credits are always accompanied by a song Mizuki, both now considered legends of the genre.
such as ‘Evangelion’, ‘Pokémon’ and ‘One Piece’ conquered pop culture. These specialised artists performed at concerts and
– usually one that embodies the show or film’s worldview. In Anime songs followed suit, and it was no longer rare to see them
the ’60s anime developed into a musical genre in its own right, on radio and TV music shows, helping anime become
performed by established artists on the most mainstream of platforms. appreciated as a musical genre in its own right.
evolving into what is now one of the most popular types of The result was chart toppers such as ‘Odoru Pompokorin’ from the kids’
Japanese music out there. If you’re new to the joys of anime and show ‘Chibi Maruko-chan’, which sold over 1.6 million records.
don’t know where to start, fear not – we’ve picked out the five
tracks that define this most joyous of genres.
2010s: The late-night

anime boom and idol
anime hits
‘GUREN NO YUMIYA’ FROM ‘ATTACK ON
TITAN’ (2013) BY LINKED HORIZON
©2006 NAGARU TANIGAWA/NOIZI ITO/SOS

The current decade has seen former
late-night cult shows such as ‘Puella
Magi Madoka Magica’ and ‘Attack on
‘ATTACK ON TITAN’ SEASON 2 VOL. 1, DISTRIBUTED BY PONY CANYON, DVD/BLU-RAY ¥19,800 PLUS TAX, ©
Titan’ grow into massive mainstream

hits and spawn hugely popular
feature-length films. Another trend
has been the rise of anime series
themed on ‘idol’ groups (pop groups
performing heavily choreographed 2000s: The internet age and the voice actor boom
HAJIME ISAYAMA/KODANSHA ‘ATTACK ON TITAN’ PRODUCTION COMMITTEE
SNOW RECORDS
song-and-dance routines) – ‘The ‘HARE HARE YUKAI’ FROM ‘THE MELANCHOLY OF HARUHI SUZUMIYA’ (2006) BY HARUHI
Idolmaster’ and ‘Love Live!’ are SUZUMIYA, YUKI NAGATO AND MIKURU ASAHINA
among the biggest hits – with these By the time the new millennium rolled along, late-night series, which often tackle
then turning out smash songs tied darker and more controversial topics, were proving that anime wasn’t just for the
1960s: The birth of anime song culture to their respective series’ story lines. kids. The popularity of these series was fuelled by online word-of-mouth and music
‘ATOM MARCH’ FROM ‘ASTRO BOY’ (1963) BY KAMITAKADA The latest craze, led by the ‘Kemono also embraced digital. The internet was becoming a breeding ground for exclusively
BOYS’ CHOIR Friends’ series and its impossibly anime-focused songwriters and singers, with composers uploading their works to
Anime songs exploded into the public consciousness with catchy opening theme, is so-called public platforms and singers then posting their covers of these songs. The success
the emergence of ‘Tetsuwan Atom’, Japan’s first full-scale ‘moe’ anthropomorphism, in which of ‘Hare hare yukai’, the ending theme to the first season of late-night schoolgirl
animated TV series, known internationally as ‘Astro Boy’. animals, objects and even abstract adventure series ‘The Melancholy of Haruhi Suzumiya’, established a new style
‘Atom March’, its opening theme, features lyrics written by concepts are represented as cute of anime song in which characters from the show sing and dance to the theme.
poet and perennial Nobel Prize for Literature contender human characters – most of which Consequently, a select few stars led by Nana Mizuki began to blur the boundaries
Shuntaro Tanikawa. can sing, of course. between voice acting and musical stardom.
Music Music
Los Barbados
Will take you to: Africa and the Arab world
This tiny, eight-seat bar on the outskirts of Shibuya
is a true original, serving a diverse, vegetarian-
friendly menu of African and Middle Eastern food,
including falafel, couscous and meze. The drink
selection is also substantial, including natural
wines, rum, calvados and – somewhat surprisingly
– a lineup of Basque digestifs. Whatever you do,
don’t leave without trying the brik, a deep-fried
Tunisian pastry stuffed with a soft-boiled egg,
cheese and tuna – thick, crispy and irresistible. It’s
all accompanied by a soundtrack of Afrobeat, ’60s
and ’70s popular music from central Africa, and rare
tunes from places such as Cape Verde, Martinique
and Guadeloupe.
à #104, 41-26 Udagawacho, Shibuya. 03 3496 7157. www7b.biglobe.
ne.jp/~los-barbados. 12noon-3pm, 6pm-11pm, closed Sun.
THREE TOKYO BANDS

PUTTING A NEW SPIN
ON EXOTIC RHYTHMS
Beats MINYO CRUSADERS

Blending Japanese folk
with Latin beats, this Tokyo
international
collective brings together two
polarised musical forms and
creates a harmony so funky
you can’t help but stand up
and dance. American roots
guitar titan Ry Cooder is
Got musical itchy feet? Kunihiro Miki and Hajime Oishi guide reportedly a fan.
you to five Tokyo music bars where you can dance to tunes
OKI DUB AINU BAND
from distant shores Led by Oki Kano, a
descendent of northern
Japan’s indigenous Ainu
Bar Bossa people, this six-piece play
Will take you to: Brazil Bar King Rum dub and African rhythms on
The Brazilian-tinged Bar Bossa is one of Shibuya’s great hideaway Will take you to: the Caribbean traditional Ainu instruments
bars. You can wash down your feijoada with wine, rum and caipirinhas Equally devoted to the Caribbean’s signature liquor and the region’s musical genres, including such as the tonkori, a plucked
while swinging gently to the mood-setting tropical beat. More a spot ska, calypso and reggae, King Rum is a little piece of the tropics just a stone’s throw from Ikebukuro string contraption. At its best,
for mellow dining, listening and drinking in good company than a wild Station. With close to 350 different bottles lining the shelves behind the bar, you’ll have a real hard the end result sounds like
party venue, Bossa doesn’t allow solo patrons, so consider going with a time finding a better rum lineup anywhere in the city, while the sun-kissed beats blaring from the nothing else on earth: a weird
good friend or that special someone. speakers make your drink taste even better. Cuban cigars are available for those who like to double and intoxicating mix.
à No 2 Okubo Bldg 1F, 41-23 Udagawacho, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 5458 4185. barbossa.com. down on their poison. It’s hard to fully put into words how laidback the atmosphere is here: the fact à See them Aug 19 at the Sumida Street Jazz
6pm-12midnight, closed Sun & hols. their website hasn’t been updated since 2005 will give you a good idea. Festival in Kinshicho. sumida-jazz.jp.
à Otaya Bldg 1F, 2-9-1 Ikebukuro, Toshima (Ikebukuro Station). 03 3980 2903. www.kingrum.jp. Daily 7pm-5am.
SEPPUKU PISTOLS
Wielding taiko drums like
World Kitchen Baobab they’re deadly weapons, this
Will take you to: the Caribbean, Africa, Central wild outfit give Japanese
and South America folk a punk facelift. Beneath
Bar Blen Blen Blen A cosmopolitan Kichijoji spot where you can the high-speed metallic
WORLD KITCHEN BAOBAB: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. BOSSA, BLEN BLEN BLEN, LOS
Will take you to: Brazil enjoy music, food and alcohol from warmer clanking of atarigane (small
If you’re in the mood for drinking the night away to climate zones, World Kitchen Baobab is gongs), their pounding
Brazilian grooves, head straight for this second-floor almost considered a sacred place by Tokyo’s compositions surge forward
hideout in Shibuya where the samba and bossa nova are world music fans; it’s full of precious records like a stampede, often
always turned up to eleven and the bar serves expertly and paraphernalia collected by the owner on incorporating shamisen
mixed caipirinhas until 4am. Far more than a nostalgia his travels. There’s a particular focus on Latin sounds that could just as well
BARBADOS, BAR KING RUM: MANABU MOROOKA
joint, Blen Blen Blen often plays made-in-Brazil sounds and African beats, with performing artists come from electric guitars. If
trending in São Paulo or Rio right now, including local serving up everything from reggae to Brazilian punk had existed in the Edo
takes on hip hop and drum and bass. When you hear pop and ’60s-style surf rock. Check their era, this is what it would have
something you like, ask the owner for more details – this website for the gig schedule and prepare for a sounded like.
walking Wikipedia of Brazilian music is sure to prove more mojito-fuelled evening that could well make àSee them Jul 15 at Shibuya Club Quattro,
helpful than your Shazam app. you forget you’re in Tokyo. 5F, 32-13-4 Udagawacho, Shibuya. Doors
à Nono Bldg 2F, 1-17-12 Dogenzaka, Shibuya (Shibuya Station). 03 3461 6533. à Ohara Bldg B1F, 2-4-6 Kichijoji-Minamicho, Musashino (Kichijoji 5pm, start 6pm. ¥3,500.
blenblenblen.jp. 8pm-4am (irregular hours on Sundays), closed Mon & hols. Station). 0422 76 2430. wk-baobab.com. 6pm-1am (Fri, Sat until 4am).
2
4. ASAKUSA BATTING
STADIUM
and ginger pickled in miso. You
can get your onigiri fix until 2am,
Nightlife
Blow off some steam by swinging making this a top destination for a
at mechanical pitches or post-drink snack.
perfecting your own fastball in the à 3-9-10 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).
bullpen – this retro batting centre, 03 3874 1615. tinyurl.com/TOTyadoroku.
opened in 1998, is instantly 11.30am-5pm, 6pm-2am. Closed for lunch Sun, for
recognisable by the glowing neon dinner Wed.
sign that spells out ROX (the name
of the building) and the giant glove
above the entrance. Each ¥400
game gets you 20 pitches. The
7. ASAKUSA GOLDEN TIGER
Run by Asakusa Jinta – a
local rock sextet that combines
complex, which also houses other swing, rockabilly, klezmer,
sporty mini-game arenas and a polka and waltz into a wild,
Taito video game arcade, stays mosh-inducing mix – this
open until 1am every day. casual bar on Kokusai-dori
Asakusa
stands out among the countless
1.
à ROX Dome 2F, 1-27-10 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa
SENSOJI TEMPLE ‘Kill Bill’, not many people know Station). 03 3845 5515. tinyurl.com/TOTasabatting. ‘snack’ bars frequented by the
Tokyo’s oldest and grandest that Gonpachi is actually a small Daily 10.30am-1am. neighbourhood’s geezers. Live
temple is wildly busy during chain of restaurants, each with performances, which range from
the day, but visiting after dark their own distinctive theme and
5. WIRED HOTEL ASAKUSA indie gigs to burlesque shows,
after dark
ZAKBARAN
is usually far more rewarding:
crowds are manageable, the
atmosphere. While QT’s muse is in
Nishi-Azabu, this branch opened 3 4 Conjured up by Portland-based
take place here every night except
for Tuesdays. When stopping by,
mighty temple structures are lit up in January 2017 and is their first creative agency OMFGCO, known don’t forget to seek out Sound Bar
until 11pm, and the closed rolling in Asakusa, just a few steps away for their Ace Hotels in London and Pure’s in the back: this techno-
doors of the 250m Nakamise- from the Kaminarimon and next across the US, and the folks behind and dance-focused hideout often
dori shopping street are straight to Azumabashi, with a great Tokyo’s ubiquitous Wired Café hosts underground DJ nights.
out of an Ikuo Hirayama riverside view from the second chain, the stylish Wired Hotel is Adventurous musos looking to
Traditionally a sedate spot, Tokyo’s most touristy painting. Strolling through the floor. The Gonpachi folks craft one of the most exciting openings explore the local scene will love a
neighbourhood is getting used to staying up way Kaminarimon gate and down the everything from scratch: their in Asakusa this year. On its ground night at Golden Tiger.
artsy arcade is recommended soba is handmade in house every floor you'll find Zakbaran, a café- à Mansion Nishi-Asakusa B1F, 2-14-13 Nishi-
past midnight. Mari Hiratsuka explores for romantics, while the izakaya- day, while the supremely bar that non-guests are welcome Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 5830 3969.
lined street on the west side of the beer-friendly yakitori skewers to use too. Sweets and snacks facebook.com/goldentiger.asakusa.
temple complex is where to kick are grilled on binchotan (Japanese made from soy milk and tofu stud
ASAKUSA IS NOT KNOWN for its nocturnal charms. It’s an obligatory
stop on the Tokyo tourist trail, and few locals would have thought of
looking for night-time things to do around the iconic Sensoji Temple.
off a booze-fuelled evening.
à 2-3-1 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). 03 3842
0181. tinyurl.com/TOTsensoji.
white charcoal) for a smoky
kick. Note that reservations are
recommended for the 5 6
the menu, alongside a strictly
curated, 12-strong sake lineup,
while the regular ‘1Mile x 100Mile’
8. UUTO CAFE
Opened in 2013, Uuto is a
magnet for local audiophiles. It’s
Until very recently, that is. The run-up to the 2020 Olympics has seen riverside seats. networking events usually see an run by a composer who needed a
a new breed of hip hotels and hostels open in Asakusa – a trend that’s
led to a clutch of noteworthy after-dark spots popping up to meet rising
demand. Here we look at how to have fun in Asakusa once the sun has
2. GONPACHI ASAKUSA
AZUMABASHI
Famous as the restaurant that
à Nakagawa Bldg 1-2F, 2-1-15 Kaminarimon, Taito
(Asakusa Station). 03 5830 3791. tinyurl.com/
TOTgonasakusa. 11.30am-11pm (last orders for
engaging lineup of guest speakers
and are fun for locals and
visitors alike.
place to check the sound quality
of his work and, apparently on
a whim, decided to establish
set: start out at the magnificently illuminated Sensoji before digging inspired the ‘Crazy 88’ fight food 10pm, drinks 10.30pm). à 2-16-2 Asakusa, Taito (Tawaramachi Station). an entire café for the purpose.
deeper into the neighbourhood’s nightly charms. scene in Quentin Tarantino's Having switched to a late-night
3.
03 5830 7932. tinyurl.com/TOTwired. Mon-
JAKOTSUYU Sat 7am-11pm (last orders 10pm), Sun & hols format a year ago, it’s where to sip
Although it's only five 7am-10pm (9pm). fine coffee and snack on luxurious
1 minutes' walk from Asakusa desserts while taking in smooth
SENSOJI, UUTO, GOLDEN TIGER, BATTING STADIUM: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. YADOROKU: KISA TOYOSHIMA. GONPACHI, JAKOTSUYU: DAIKI SUZUKI
Station, in an alley just off
Kokusai-dori, this sento bath
house tends not to get much
6. ONIGIRI ASAKUSA
YADOROKU
Onigiri Asakusa Yadoroku
tunes flowing from speakers
tuned to pin-drop perfection.
If body fat percentage isn’t high
tourist traffic – which is all has survived earthquakes, on your list of concerns, go for
the more surprising when you
consider that it's been going
7 redevelopments and a multitude
of foodie fads. Founded in
the cutesy and cat-shaped but
decadent gateau chocolat,
since the Edo period. The 1954, Tokyo’s oldest onigiri which can be paired with a
owners have given the place a specialist is distinguished by its glass of fine whisky or some
few overhauls since then, and counter, which is reminiscent sake from the owner’s
hardcore shitamachi geeks of those found at upscale sushi extensive collection.
may be disappointed by the restaurants, but the shop itself à 4-43-6 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station).
functional, modern interior. Still, remains adorably down to earth. 03 5808 9954. uuto-cafe.com. 5pm-4am
the obligatory painting of Mount Now run by the grandchildren (last orders 3am), closed Sun & hols.
Fuji looms over the indoor bathing of the founder, who set it up after
area, which features tubs filled
with mineral-rich, dark brown
her husband simply couldn’t
be bothered to work any longer,
8
water, while a stone path leads Yadoroku roughly translates
to the relaxing open-air zone to ‘no-good sofa spud’ – which
complete with rotenburo (open- must have led to some interesting
air bath). The place is open until conversations around the dinner
midnight, making a moonlit table. Rice balls can be had for
dip essential. around ¥200, with filling options
à 1-11-11 Asakusa, Taito (Asakusa Station). ranging from the common salmon
03 3841 8645. tinyurl.com/TOTjakotsuyu. and kombu seaweed to salted and
1pm-11.40pm, closed Tue. fermented fish innards (‘shiokara’)
Nightlife Nightlife
The best
all-you-can- Park Hyatt: Twilight Time
drink deals at
The best-known high-end hotel in Tokyo thanks to Sofia Coppola getting Lost In Translation, the
Park Hyatt is still laidback enough to let guests imbibe unlimitedly – and without spending top yen
– while enjoying splendid twilight vistas from the 41st floor. Beginning at 5pm, just when the sun is
beginning its descent, you can enjoy free-flowing drinks and buffet-style canapés at The Peak Bar,
found on the corner of the hotel’s calm and spacious lobby floor. A DJ spins from 6pm onwards.
Tokyo hotels
à ¥4,000 (plus tax and service). Park Hyatt Tokyo 41F, 3-7-1 Nishi-Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku, Tochomae, Hatsudai stations). 03 5323 3461.
tinyurl.com/TOTtwilight. Daily 5pm-8pm.
Upgrade your nomihodai – bottomless glass –

experience with these luxuriously limitless booze
deals. By Mayumi Koyama
Aman: The Black Bar

Following its ‘black afternoon tea’, a chic experience where inky dishes are served on monochrome tableware,
the Aman has put together another Instagram-worthy ‘black’ menu. The ‘Black Bar’ deal features a rotating Sheraton Miyako Hotel:
set menu – think crab cake with black tomato, prosciutto with black pepper and marinated black olives – to Late Afternoon Tea Prince Park Tower: Twilight Plan
accompany noir-themed original cocktails. Try the Aman Black Espresso Martini, made with the hotel’s own The perfect spot if you’re doing your drinking The Prince Park Tower stands right next to the
brands of espresso, coffee liqueur and vodka, and the Black Berry Cooler, which is a blend of three kinds of alone, the Sheraton’s Late Afternoon Tea has iconic Tokyo Tower, and the hotel’s 33rd-floor
berries, vodka and coca cola. For an extra ¥3,200 you can upgrade to unlimited champagne. This artistic menu both communal tables for those who feel lounge takes advantage, offering dynamic
and the chic grey interior give the incredible night views a run for their money. sociable and cosy nooks for those who don’t. views of our city’s pretty orange icon. Note that
à ¥7,800 (plus service). Otemachi Tower 33F, 1-5-6 Otemachi, Chiyoda (Otemachi Station). 03 5224 3339. tinyurl.com/TOTblackbar. Daily 5.30pm-10pm for two hours. Food is served on a three-tiered platter packed a reservation only gets you through the door
with finger sandwiches, salads, tarts, cheeses and doesn’t guarantee a specific seat, so best be
and carpaccio. The drink offers include Kirin early if you want to nab one of the five pairs of
and Asahi beer on tap and Duché Chevallier coveted window seats. The bottomless Twilight
Four Seasons Spanish cava which, when combined with Plan is only available on weekdays and includes
Hotel at Marunouchi: the calming live jazz from the in-house duo free-flowing Barons de Rothschild Brut and
Champagne Free Flow and serene views of the hotel’s delightfully over 40 kinds of the resident mixologist’s
Satisfying the hungry as well as illuminated Japanese garden, will soon have cocktails. Don’t miss the signature mojito or the
the thirsty, the Four Seasons’ you in a state of chilled-out bliss. Tokyo Tower, a Prince Park original, the recipe
deal invites you to fill your à ¥4,800 (including tax and service, online reservations (page in of which is a closely guarded secret.
belly while washing the food Japanese only) required). Sheraton Miyako Hotel Tokyo 1F, 1-1-50 à ¥7,500 (plus service). The Prince Park Tower Tokyo 33F, 4-8-1 Shiba
down with top tipples. Choose Shirokanedai, Minato (Shirokanedai Station). tinyurl.com/TOTlatetea- Koen, Minato (Akabanebashi Station). 03 5400 1154. tinyurl.com/
from champagnes including book. 6pm-8.30pm for two hours. TOTtwilightplan. Mon-Fri 5pm-7.30pm (last admission) for two hours.
ANA INTERCONTINENTAL, PRINCE PARK TOWER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. FOUR SEASONS HOTEL: KISA TOYOSHIMA
Pommery Brut Royal or go
for some of the bar’s original
cocktails while enjoying two
dishes – a cold appetiser and
a warm main – courtesy of the
Motif’s chef, Hiroyuki Asano.
If you’re a connoisseur,
ANA InterContinental: Champagne Social upgrade to the ‘First class...’
Every bubble-lover’s dream, the ANA InterContinental’s deal, which includes unlimited
Champagne Social lets you savour multiple brands multiple amounts of the champagne
times. Chose one of the three ‘levels’: Bronze for two kinds of of the month, a guest bubbly
champagne, Silver for three and Gold for five – all plans let brought in from some of
you choose one set of nibbles from a three-strong menu. To France’s top maisons.
top things off, the cocktails included also feature champagne; à ¥7,000, ¥9,800 for the ‘First class of the
you have to consume the fine stuff as soon as a bottle is month’ (plus tax and service). 7F, Pacific Century
opened, so unfinished bottles of Taittinger, Louis Roederer Place, 1-11-1 Marunouchi, Chiyoda (Tokyo,
and so forth are reborn as sprightly mimosas. Kyobashi, Yurakucho stations). 03 5222 5810.
à Bronze ¥5,950, Silver ¥6,950, Gold ¥12,800 (plus tax and service). ANA tinyurl.com/TOTfreeflow. Two hours; Mon-Fri
InterContinental Tokyo 3F, 1-12-33 Akasaka, Minato (Tameike-Sanno Station). 03 3505 5pm-7pm (last admission), Sat, Sun & hols from
1185. tinyurl.com/TOTanachampagne. 5pm-10pm for two hours (Sun & hols 4pm-8pm). 3pm-7pm.
Promotional feature
ROBOT Film
REDUX
LOCAL
INSIGHT
Cinema under
Why you should visit the Robot
Restaurant while in Tokyo.
By Kaila Imada the stars
Where to watch movies under the open sky this summer. By Mari Hiratsuka
HIGHLIGHTS OF THE SHOW THINGS YOU SHOULD KNOW
WHETHER IT BE from visitors, Not your typical dinner theatre, Make sure you arrive early as the game show up at the restaurant’s ON A BALMY SUMMER EVENING , nothing beats catching a film under the stars. Take your pick of urban
locals or the flashy robo-trucks the current show kicks off with show is very strict about start lounge floor, including live screenings in Tokyo, or head out into the countryside for outdoor cinema festivals held at mountain camp sites
constantly criss-crossing the a vibrant drumming set along times and if you arrive late there’s singing, a robot playing the or ski resorts. These parties are usually all-night affairs, complete with DJ sets, food markets and fun for young
city, it’s highly unlikely you’ve with massive neon-lit floats, a chance you’ll be left listening to electric guitar, plus a crazy, sake- movie buffs in the making. Here are our top picks of al fresco film events going on in August and September.
never seen or heard about the blinged-out daruma dolls, the mayhem from behind closed touting drumming crew to get you
Robot Restaurant. This popular dancers in manga-inspired doors until the first intermission. into the mood for things to come.
hotspot deserves its fame, wigs and the show’s signature Bonus: if you arrive early enough, and Japanese. ‘Harmonium’, which won the Oscar-winning ‘Cinema Paradiso’,
offering visitors a unique Tokyo mechanical sushi boat. Act two you’ll be treated to a little pre- à Jul 28-Aug 20 (no screenings on Aug 4 & 5). Jury Prize in the Un Certain and 2014 documentary ‘Iris’,
experience loaded with bombast. features a battle of the bots where Regard section at Cannes 2016, which tells the story of 95-year-old
©STARDUST THEATER ORGANISING COMMITTEE

Yatsugatake Natural & Culture Park, 17217-1613
Located down Sakura-dori in giant jungle creatures gang up Haramura, Suwa, Nagano. www.hoshizoraeiga.com. and coming-of-age comedy ‘14 New York fashion icon Iris Apfel.
Shinjuku’s neon-lit Kabukicho against a team of evil robots from ¥1,000 adv, ¥1,300 on the day (high school students That Night’. à Aug 3-19. Yebisu Garden Place, 4-20
district, the Robot Restaurant has another universe. An unexpected ¥1,000, junior high students and younger ¥500). à Aug 4-6. Motosuko Camping Ground, 18 Ebisu, Shibuya (Ebisu Station). tinyurl.com/
been wowing guests since 2012 breakout of robot line dancing Motosu, Fuji-Kawaguchiko, Minamitsuru, TOTpicniccinema. Free.
and continues to reinvent itself comes next with nostalgic tunes Yamanashi. kohan-filmfest.info. ¥3,500 adv,
for both first-time and returning and choreography apparently ¥4,000 on the day (under-18s ¥2,000 on the day). MUJINTO CINEMA CAMP 2017
customers. inspired by the King of Pop. The Mujinto Cinema Camp may well
show ends with a feast for the be the most exclusive open-air
WHY IT’S WORTH IT eyes as a mix-match of robots STARDUST THEATER IN HARAMURA movie event out there. Taking
Where else in Tokyo can you in rainbow wigs, retro cars and An annual summer highlight place at a private camp site
enjoy a satisfying bento meal a metallic horse (or perhaps a for Kanto area folks fond of in rural Shizuoka, which can
along with tub-thumping unicorn?) parade through the watching movies in the great only be reached by boat, this
drummers, gravity-defying crowd. outdoors, Stardust Theater is where to watch films in the
dancers and robots rocking out to returns to Nagano’s picturesque great outdoors without having
Michael Jackson? The 90-minute ANYTHING GOES Yatsugatake Natural & Culture to worry about light pollution,
show is a delightful assault on the The Robot Restaurant is the Park for its 32nd edition. Head KOHAN FILM FESTIVAL noise or skinflints – last year’s
senses, sure to lift your spirits and best kind of crazy, where rules out into the mountains for Japanese indie filmmakers join tickets started at a cool ¥20,000.
have you wiggling on the edge of truly are thrown out the door. HOW TO BOOK: Robot Restaurant is open for three shows daily, roughly a month’s worth of forces with locals at Yamanashi’s Participants can also explore the
your seat while the kawaii troupe Expect anything and everything starting at 5.55pm, 7.50pm and 9.45pm (with an additional show at 4pm cinematic action, beautifully Lake Motosu for this film and YEBISU GARDEN PLACE PICNIC surrounds on kayak trips, help
trot along in six-inch crystal from breakdancing bots and a and on weekends and holidays), and the format is changed every few months projected onto a massive music extravaganza taking place CINEMA decorate the venue, catch gigs,
encrusted heels. The best part? ‘Mad Max’-inspired float fit with to keep things fresh. You can reserve your spot a couple of screen, and enjoy an offbeat over the first weekend of August. Catch a movie on a hot summer make their own candles and
You never know what’s coming a dangling guitarist up front days ahead by calling the number below between 9am film experience under the starry During the day, you can catch gigs evening at Ebisu’s Garden Place, take part in various outdoorsy
and 10pm. The entrance fee is ¥8,000, excluding food Bring the
next. Once you think you’ve to hyper Amazonian dancers discount coupon sky far away from the hustle and DJ performances all around where screenings start from activities over the second
seen it all, out comes a bigger, decked out in colourful crystals and drinks. Note that the schedule might change due and bustle of Tokyo. Just don’t the gorgeous campsite venue, 7.30pm for 12 days from August 3. weekend of September. Both
to maintenance. on page 57 with you
better robot that will have you and feathers. Try not to get lost to Robot Restaurant forget your warm jacket, as the while the movie screenings start The free films will be shown on a the cinematic and musical
wondering what the designers through the floral maze on your Shinjuku Robot Bldg, 1-7-1 Kabukicho, Shinjuku 1,300m altitude ensures that it after sunset and go on all night. big screen set up in the middle of programmes will be released in
(Shinjuku Station). 03 3200 5500. and get ¥1,000 off
have been drinking and if you can way out, as the mind-blowing your bill. gets rather chilly at night. The The lineup consists mostly of the complex, with the programme July, so keep your eyes peeled.
try a sip. show will surely leave you dizzy. www.shinjuku-robot.com. 4pm-11pm daily. programme, which hasn’t been cutting-edge Japanese cinema including life-affirming fare such à Sep 9 & 10. Aqua Village, Tago, Nishi-Izu,
released yet, is usually a nice (not subtitled, unfortunately), as Irish musical comedy ‘Sing Kamo, Shizuoka. www.mujintocinemacamp.com.
combo of old and new, Western such as Koji Fukada’s Street’, Giuseppe Tornatore’s Prices TBC.
59 July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

TOHOKU UPDATE
A change of art Sport

Nick Narigon explores how a new arts festival is aiming to
become a symbol of recovery from the triple disasters of 2011
IT WAS THE LONGEST four days of Nakazawa. ‘Reborn [Art Festival]

Tatsuo Miyajima’s life. The vice aims to help Tohoku open up
president of Tohoku University of potential possibilities and
Art and Design was in the Kanto move forward.’
Making
area when the March 11, 2011 But the festival would not have
earthquake and tsunami hit. It happened if it hadn’t been for
took four long days for him to music producer and social activist
return to the Yamagata campus in Takeshi Kobayashi. Known for his
northern Japan and confirm that work with Japanese pop-rock icons
a splash
his students were safe. Miyajima, Mr. Children, in 2003 Kobayashi,

one of Japan’s most renowned along with others, provided
contemporary artists, was soon the seed money for AP Bank,
getting his hands dirty – raking a money-lending mechanism
mud out of tsunami-stricken for organisations dedicated to
homes in nearby Ishinomaki. environmental causes.
Once the immediate tasks were AP Bank was already
complete, the 60-year-old turned conducting charity work in How to get wet and wild in Tokyo this summer. By Ili Saarinen barbecue. Make sure to bring a
his mind to how he could use his Ishinomaki, where the elevation swimsuit (to wear underneath the
talents to help the area rebuild. was lowered 1.2 metres by the wetsuit) and a towel for the shower
‘I had always wanted to tsunami, so putting Nakazawa’s WHEN THE SUFFOCATING afterwards.
contribute to Tohoku in some ideas into practice there was a summer heat hits Tokyo, staying à From ¥5,800 (prices vary seasonally). www.
way as an artist,’ says Miyajima. ‘I natural choice. To complete indoors and turning up the fw-raft.com/okutama.
started thinking about creating the circle, Kobayashi’s Bank air conditioning to eleven is
an artwork to both embolden and Band, fronted by Mr. Children one option. Another – more SCUBA DIVING
repose people.’ singer Kazutoshi Sakurai, will environmentally friendly and You can go deep-water diving
He wasn’t alone – and the headline Reborn. less socially stigmatic – one in Tokyo, albeit only on a
Reborn Art Festival is the result. The event will be a sprawling is taking off your clothes and technicality: the Nangoku scuba
Over the course of 51 days, from affair with the Oshika Peninsula engaging in watery merriment school is based on Kozushima,
this July 22 to September 10, serving as the main site, while within day trip distance from part of the Izu island chain
approximately 200,000 people other events will be held in the big city. So grab that tube that’s over 100km away from
are expected to descend upon Ishinomaki City and surrounding of sunscreen and escape the but administratively part of
the Oshika Peninsula, the closest towns, including the fishing concrete jungle for some the capital. Certified instructor
landmark to the earthquake’s village of Onagawa, which lost 70 certifiably refreshing Yusuke Suzuki offers all-inclusive,
epicentre, for the Reborn Art percent of its buildings under 15m aquatic activities. three-hour introductions to
Festival. The festival blends waves in 2011. diving, no licence required.
the works of world-class artists, Miyajima aims to reflect the SUP is more strenuous than it looks ordered. These cheery, English- You can take a jet ferry (2 hours
including Miyajima, with region’s complicated relationship Originally from Hawaii, stand- – we were stiff as, well, a board speaking locals will pick you up at 40 minutes from Takeshiba
masterclasses from Japan’s with the tide in his art installation, up paddle boarding or SUP has the day after – and the jellyfish Ome Station and drive you to their terminal) or fly (55 minutes from
top chefs and local artisans, all titled ‘Sea of Time’. The project, become quite the trend in Japan. in the water practically rule forest hideout 15 minutes up the Chofu Airport) to Kozushima.
soundtracked by performances made with the assistance from While simply riding and paddling falling out as an option, but the Tama river. This is where things à Intro to diving ¥12,960. kozu-nangoku.com/
from some of the country’s best Tohoku artists who were affected is challenging enough for most instructors are friendly and speak get real: you’ll be asked to change kozu-english.html.
live bands. by the disaster, entails a series of beginners, some preternaturally enough English to make you feel into a wetsuit, pull on a life vest
LED lights installed at the bottom talented practitioners even comfortable. All classes, including and helmet and jump back in the SURFING
of a pool displaying a continual engage in ‘SUP yoga’ these days. the tours to the Skytree that are car for transport to the deceptively Although the Shonan coast
‘We thought we countdown from 9 to 1. Anyway, you need to know how available for more confident calm starting point. Once on down in Kanagawa is the capital
‘This is a festival with many theories of Shinichi Nakazawa, a ‘The people of Tohoku had to stand up before pulling off a boarders, require you to wear board, you’ll be taught how to region’s most famous surfing
could support elements,’ says spokesperson director at Meiji University, who always lived together with the reverse warrior pose, and that’s shorts or tights. paddle and balance yourself, spot, Chiba’s beaches often
Tohoku through Emiko Suzuki. ‘We want to cheer

up the people who live here, but
was the first to suggest that an art
festival would have a long-lasting
sea. And even when the sea took
everything from them, they did
where the good folks at ZAC
come in. Based out east in the
à Tokyo SUP Experience ¥4,500. zacsports.com/
suptop.htm.
and then it’s off to the rapids. In
addition to rafting, you’ll get to
boast better waves. Several
Tokyo-based companies offer
the power of art also have an economic effect.’
‘The damage was serious, but
impact on Tohoku. Nakazawa
says the goal of the festival is to
not hold resentment towards it,’
says Miyajima. ‘We are helping
peaceful, suburban surrounds
of Higashi-Ojima, they offer RAFTING
jump from cliffs, swim and splash
in the crystal-clear river. It doesn’t
one-day tours to the Pacific
coast for beginners; we like
and music’ we thought we could support the
revival of the area through the
affect all aspects of life for Tohoku
residents, including technology,
them to create the future.’ beginner-to-intermediate classes
on the calm Kyu-Naka River. If
If getting utterly soaked while
paddling a wobbly boat through
get much more refreshing than
this on a hot day, and tours take
Nikkori Surf, who’ll teach you
the basics for ¥10,000 (rentals
power of art and music,’ continues economy and ecology. you’re a complete newbie, opt the rapids of a majestic mountain place even when it rains – you’re and transportation included).
à The Reborn Art Festival takes
Suzuki. ‘The local people told us ‘Tohoku should not rebuild for the ‘Tokyo SUP Experience’, landscape sounds like your idea going to get wet anyway, so why Tours depart from Mizue Station
place Jul 22-Sep 10 in Ishinomaki
directly that they want people to [in the sense of returning to the a one-hour class that’ll see you of an enjoyable summer day, worry? Tours range from a 1.5- in Edogawa at 8am and return to
City and surroundings. tinyurl.com/
come and visit.’ original], but must advance to practice all the basic manoeuvres. then a rafting tour with Forest & hour deal to all-day experiences Tokyo early in the evening.
TOTreborn.
Reborn Art Festival draws on the create something new,’ says The standing part in particular Water will be just what the doctor that can be combined with à Basic class ¥10,000. nikkorisurf.com.
Sport
No contest
PHOTOS: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

Ili Saarinen meets a master of aikido, the most
spiritual of Japan’s martial arts
IT’S JUST AFTER 6AM and I share from the cautious and detail-
a sun-bathed room with 100 men oriented movement of casual
and women who could slam me aikido-ka representing their
face first into the tatami mat- school, company or local dojo,
covered floor without breaking to the spectacularly sharp and
a sweat. But luckily enough, dynamic throws and suppression
that’s the last thing on their techniques of top-level sensei,
minds: this fearsome bunch, including Ueshiba and his father,
clad in loose white uniforms doshu (grand master) Moriteru
and black or dark blue hakama Ueshiba.
trousers, has assembled at the With the 14,000-seat
Aikido Honbu Dojo complex Budokan all but packed for the
in Wakamatsucho for asageiko demonstration every year and the
(morning practice). Their pursuit number of practitioners steadily
is aikido, a Japanese martial art growing around the world, it’s
founded by Morihei Ueshiba in hardly surprising that Mitsuteru
the 1930s, loosely translated as Ueshiba is happy about the state
‘the way of the harmonious spirit’, Mitsuteru Ueshiba of his great grandfather’s legacy.
and headquartered in this quiet But that, he says, is no reason
Shinjuku neighbourhood. beyond retirement age, take turns that ‘the true spirit of martial for complacency: ‘Of course, my
This morning’s group is even throwing, twisting, pushing and arts lies not in the testing of one’s primary task is to uphold the
more international than usually, falling over – all with admirable strength against others, but in heritage [of aikido] and pass it on
with enthusiasts from around control and care for their pursuing spiritual growth… It’s to coming generations. I never
the world having flown in for partner’s safety. This process all about improving yourself – not stop thinking about what can be
the annual All-Japan aikido of ‘mental improvement and impressing others.’ done to ensure that the future
demonstration that’s coming up cultivation of inner strength’, says While aikido’s lack of a remains bright.’
in a few days. The founder’s great the 36-year-old Ueshiba, is at the competitive element may keep
grandson, Mitsuteru Ueshiba, core of aikido. it out of the Olympics, it still
heads the session, performing Now boasting around a million makes for a spectacular spectator
à Want to try aikido for yourself?
the various waza (techniques) practitioners worldwide, aikido experience. Take the annual
Mitsuteru Ueshiba recommends
effortlessly with an opponent differs from other martial arts ‘enbukai’ demonstration, a
contacting your local dojo directly –
before calling for his disciples in one crucial way: it has no grand event held at the Nippon
you can search for a training centre
to repeat the move with their matches, meaning that there Budokan, an arena considered
at aikikai.or.jp/search/index.html.
sparring partner, over and over are never any winners or losers. the spiritual centre of Japanese
The All-Japan Aikido Demonstration
and over. His students, some This, says Ueshiba, is because martial arts. During this all-day
takes place in late May every year.
in their late teens, others well his great grandfather believed jamboree, performances range

Lost in Harajuku?
Head straight for Moshi Moshi Box
LGBT
AS THE SHOPPING DISTRICT that symbolises Japanese pop culture,
Harajuku is a must-visit for any tourist. But anyone who’s jumped into
the shopping fray will tell you it can be a little intimidating. Which
is why you’ll be pleased to hear about Moshi Moshi Box, the tourist
information centre that’s right in the heart of the area.
To find it, walk five minutes from the station and look out for the
centre’s symbol – a big, colourful world clock designed by Harajuku
kawaii impresario Sebastian Masuda. The centre provides sightseeing
information for the Shibuya area, including
Harajuku. It also provides essential
information and services such as
courier assistance, a foreign currency
exchange machine, and free wi-fi.
But that’s not all: aiming to serve as
an entertainment centre in itself,
Print
it’s a place where overseas visitors
can experience J-pop culture
through activities such as trying
on kimono. There’s also a souvenir
shop where you can pick up Mt
charming
Fuji artwork and quirky items such
as sushi socks and accessories with
popular Harajuku motifs.
à3-23-5 Jingumae, Shibuya (Harajuku and Meiji-Jingumae
stations). 03 6447 2225. moshimoshi-nippon.jp. Daily 10am-6pm.
One Tokyo bookstore is keeping the flame of

Japanese gay print culture alive. By Kosuke Shimizu
Get our maps and mag in Shibuya You can

Pick up our maps and magazine at one of
these venues:
Stations:
Stop by the Shibuya Station Tourist Information Centre now get your Select Toei Subway stations
copy of Time Out Tokyo Tourist information centres:
magazine delivered – we Tokyo Metropolitan Government
Headquarters
ship internationally too! Shibuya Station Tourist Information
Please visit time-out- Centre
tokyo.myshopify. Tokyo City Air Terminal
com. Ginza Mitsukoshi Tourist Information Desk
and more tourist information centres
Airports:
SHINJUKU NI-CHOME, Tokyo’s gay district, once counted literary titan Yukio Mishima his work as ‘safe-keeping’: ‘I’ll die sooner or Haneda Airport (International Terminal)
is famed for its high concentration of bars, among its contributors, Ogura sat down with later too, so I don’t think of my collection in Narita International Airport
clubs and eateries catering to the entire LGBT us to talk about his extensive archive of gay terms of ownership.’ Shops:
community. But the neighbourhood is also publications. One anecdote aptly describes Okamalt’s Tsutaya Tokyo Roppongi
Books Kinokuniya Shinjuku Main Store
home to a few more unlikely operations, ‘There are 500-600 titles at the shop, but mission of building a community in which the Books Kinokuniya Tokyo
including the Okamalt book café – Tokyo’s I have a collection of over 10,000 back at my past and the future are connected through the Tower Records Shibuya
only shop dedicated to LGBT-lit. Run by warehouse,’ says Ogura. ‘That number might medium of books. ‘One day, a customer came and more shops
Japanese gay culture pioneer To Ogura, a surprise you, but gay literature is such a broad to me looking for the first gay-themed book Restaurants:
writer and magazine editor who is known as concept.’ We can only agree after spotting he had ever read,’ recounts Ogura. Although Time Out Cafe & Diner
Margarette in drag queen circles, it’s quickly titles by everyone from computer scientist this customer knew neither the title nor the Hard Rock Café Tokyo (Roppongi)
become the talk of the town. An avid reader Alan Turing to Wittgenstein. author’s name, Ogura was able to pick out the All Hub pubs in Tokyo
and more restaurants
of ‘Adonis’, Japan’s oldest gay magazine that Ogura has been an avid bookworm since right one based on the vaguest of descriptions,
childhood – ‘I read Yukio Mishima books as and thus earned himself a new regular. Hotels that have Les Clefs d’Or Japan
member concierge:
a kid, despite not having any idea what he ‘Many gay people first start dealing with their
‘Many gay people was talking about,’ he says – and always had
wide-ranging interests, but he only turned
sexuality through books, so the emotional
element is very strong,’ he says. TIME OUT READERS will know Each edition squeezes the All of these publications,
ANA InterContinental Tokyo
The Peninsula Tokyo
first start dealing to collecting writing on gay culture after the Although leaving a legacy with the archive about our popular series of free best of the capital into a compact along with issues of our magazine,
Palace Hotel Tokyo
Park Hyatt Tokyo
Mandarin Oriental,Tokyo
death of his colleague Ben Kimura. is one of its owner’s most important aims for maps: pocket-sized guides to the pamphlet, complete with a are available to pick up at Shibuya
with their sexuality After years of contributing to gay Okamalt, the store also functions as a place for multifarious delights this city has city map, and we’ve included Station’s tourist information
Cerulean Tower Tokyu Hotel
Grand Hyatt Tokyo
SHIBUYA INFORMATION CENTER: KEISUKE TANIGAWA
through books, magazines, popular illustrator Kimura passed

away in 2003. His relatives were about to bin
digging up old memories and re-confirming
one’s identity. Ogura hopes it can be a safe
to offer. They’re hard to miss these
days – as well as our ever-popular
everything from offbeat art galleries
and otaku meccas to ancient
centre, conveniently located in
the underground passage on
Conrad Tokyo
Hotel Okura Tokyo
so the emotional the late artist’s entire magazine trove, before

Ogura stepped in and rescued these treasures
place for anyone who’s ever relied on a book to
get them through a tough patch in life. ‘That’s
‘101 things to do in Shibuya’
edition and the comprehensive
shrines and hipster hangouts.
We’ve also recently expanded
the second basement floor of
Shibuya Station. The English-
The Prince Park Tower Tokyo
and more hotels
element is very from the trash. ‘I realised that the collection of the power of books for you right there,’ ‘88 things to do in Tokyo’, we’ve the series to include places beyond speaking guides will help you Note: If you can’t find the map you’re
looking for, this probably means we’ve

even someone as influential as Ben could be he smiles. come out with maps for nearly Tokyo, launching special maps for stock up, provide sightseeing temporarily run out of stock. Please be
strong’ discarded just like that,’ he says. ‘[My archive]
started with the salvaging of condemned
à Shin-Chidorigai 2F, 2-18-10 Shinjuku, Shinjuku (Shinjuku-
Sanchome Station). 03 6380 0280. facebook.com/cafeokamalt.
all the top areas including
Roppongi, Shinjuku, Nihonbashi,
those of you heading to Shimane
or the temples of Nikko – both
tips, and assist you in navigating
the bowels of the cavernous
patient while we work on the next print run.
Please direct any advertising queries to
books, and grew from that.’ Ogura describes 1pm-8pm, closed Thu-Sat. Marunouchi, Koenji and Ginza. make for a great mini getaway. station itself. sales@timeout.jp.
Travel & Your secret
Hotels guide to
Kyoto
Step away from the tourist trail and discover
KINSE RYOKAN
This 250-year-old building –
which was originally constructed
as an upscale brothel and later
turned into a ryokan (traditional
a whole new side of Japan’s cultural capital inn) – now houses this retro café
and bar. With the interior having
with Yukako Izumi been renovated in the late 1920s,
everything about Kinse brings to
THERE’S NO ESCAPING the fact that Kyoto is Japan’s most mind the Western-style buildings
touristy city, with the ancient capital’s dizzying selection of Japan’s Taisho era (1912-1926)
of temples and treasures attracting travellers throughout – including the atmosphere and
PHOTOGRAPHY: HIROYUKI SUMI

the year. It’s also notoriously hard to navigate, so first-time music. If you’re looking for truly
visitors often stick to the beaten path and miss out on seeing unusual accommodation, try
something a little different. That’s where we can help: here’s booking the second-floor room,
our guide to the city’s quirkier side. which is still rented out to one
group per night.
à79 Nishi-Shinyashiki Tayucho, Shimogyo, Kyoto.
075 351 4781. www.kinse-kyoto.com. 3pm-10pm,
closed Tue.
L'ESCAMOTEUR BAR
Even seasoned barflies may do a double take upon opening
the door to this wonderfully eclectic second-floor watering VERMILLION CAFE
hole, set in the very retro Kawaramachi neighbourhood. An Few tourists visit Kyoto without stopping by Fushimi Inari
ex-magician, French owner Christophe modelled the interior Taisha, the impressive shrine famed for its countless red
on an early 20th-century herbal pharmacy. He’s also planted torii gates and multifarious fox statues. After climbing all
all sorts of funky contrivances around the space, so keep the way up through the torii tunnel and trying to snap a
your wits about you when visiting. In addition to an eight- selfie that says ‘serene quiet time’ rather than ‘squeezed
seat counter and a standing room, the bar has a swing by the in among the hordes’, head for the more tranquil streets
window – best pace yourself with the drinks if you’re seated behind the shrine complex. Here you’ll find this homely
here. The magically punchy cocktails cost ¥1,200 or ¥1,500 café, which hides out near the shrine pond and boasts
and no cover charge is applied. terrace seats pointed directly towards the calm water.
à2F, 138-9 Saitocho, Saiseki-dori Shijo-sagaru, Shimogyo, Kyoto. 075 708 8511. 8pm-2am, Both the coffee beans and baked treats served here are
closed Mon. ‘made in Kyoto’: the former come roasted by local favourite
Weekenders Coffee. Don’t tell everyone – Vermillion is the
kind of place you’ll want to keep a secret.
à5-31 Fukakusa-Kaidoguchicho, Fushimi, Kyoto. www.vermillioncafe.com.
10am-5.30pm (Sat, Sun & hols from 9am).
KYOTO BREWING
Run by a trio of expats from the US, Canada and Wales, this
microbrewery has been the talk of its traditional neighbourhood since MURAKAMI KAISHINDO
opening in April 2015 and its fame is spreading – Kyoto Brewing beers One of the city’s best sweet spots, Murakami Kaishindo was
can now be found in hip Tokyo restaurants and beer bars. Aiming to craft founded in 1907. This venerable dessert specialist was late
brews that clearly deviate from current domestic trends while drawing to the café game though, only opening its own in March
on time-honoured, mainly American and Belgian, methods, the this year. You’ll find it in the back of the shop – take off your
founders chose Kyoto as a base because of the city’s rich culinary culture shoes and aim for one of the seats facing the garden. In
and penchant for fusing the traditional with the cutting-edge. Make sure addition to Murakami’s famed cookies, the menu includes
to go on a weekend, when the taproom – complete with a bare-bones cakes, coffee and black tea. When you’re all sugared up,
terrace – is opened to the public. The presence of the occasional tourist explore the surrounding, once very quiet Teramachi-dori
deep in this residential neighbourhood, a ten-minute taxi ride from area, which is currently emerging as one of Kyoto’s most
Kyoto Station, is also explained by the brewery’s efficient branding: exciting neighbourhoods due to a slew of new,
in turns up at the very top of a Google search page for ‘Kyoto brewery’. hip openings.
The wonders of online marketing… àTeramachi-dori Nijo-agaru Higashigawa, Nakagyo, Kyoto. 075 231 1058. www.
à25-1 Nishikyujo-Takahatacho, Minami, Kyoto. 075 574 7820. kyotobrewing.com. Sat, Sun only 12noon-6pm. murakami-kaishindo.jp. 10am-5pm, closed Sun & hols, 3rd Mon of the month.
66 67 July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Travel & Hotels Travel & Hotels
TRUNK HOTEL
Opened in between Shibuya and Harajuku
in May, the boutique-style Trunk Hotel is
run by a local wedding planning giant and
aims to really let guests experience the best
of the surrounding area during their stay.
The hotel lounge hosts parties every Friday
night, while other community-oriented
happenings are planned for the coming
months. As for the art-filled rooms, you
get to choose from seven types, including
singles (from ¥27,000), a ‘junior suite’
(¥92,000) with beds for six, and a ‘terrace
suite’ that can be had for a cool ¥570,000
per night. The terrace suite is equipped
with a spacious balcony, a gadget-packed
kitchen and even an outdoor bath. All
rooms are stocked with made-in-Japan,
environmentally friendly bathroom
amenities, which can also be bought at the
shop on the ground floor.
à5-31 Jingumae, Shibuya (Shibuya, Harajuku stations).
tinyurl.com/TOTtrunk.
The best new hotels

and hostels in Tokyo
TRAIN HOSTEL HOKUTOSEI
This unique hostel, which opened in December last year and is accessible directly
from JR Bakurocho Station, is a must for railway lovers. Named after the Hokutosei
sleeper train, which operated between Tokyo and Sapporo for 27 years before being
retired in 2015, it boasts an interior that faithfully recreates the train’s cabins – all
bunk beds, aluminium ladders and dark curtains – made entirely with materials
Make the most of your budget trip at these hot hostels and from the Hokutosei carriages. In addition to the usual dorms, they offer semi-private
rooms roughly the size of a regular sleeper train cabin. Prices start from ¥2,500 –
affordable hotels. By Mari Hiratsuka
a bargain compared to the moving Hokutosei’s minimum rate of ¥6,300. OK,
you’ll still wake up in Tokyo after a night here, but at least the ride is unlikely to
SHIBAMATA FU-TEN BED AND LOCAL be as bumpy.
If you don’t mind staying at the very eastern edge of à1-10-12 Nihonbashi-Bakurocho, Chuo (Bakurocho Station). tinyurl.com/TOThokutosei.
Tokyo and are looking for a real shitamachi (traditional
downtown) experience, then this is the hostel for you.
Fu-Ten is set in picturesque Shibamata, famed for its
majestic Taishakuten temple, and occupies an old
AS TOKYO GEARS UP for the 2020 Olympics, the need for more rooms apartment building. Fully renovated, it now houses both
has seen a host of buildings being converted into an exciting new breed Japanese-style tatami rooms and modern lodgings – some
of boarding houses. We’ve rounded up the hottest hostels and budget of the Western-style rooms also have their own showers.
hotels opened over the past six months – from a relaxed riverside Rates start at an affordable ¥3,000 per head for a spot in a
hideout to a spot where you can pretend you’re on a sleeper train. two-person room.
à7-12-19 Shibamata, Katsushika (Shibamata Station). tinyurl.com/TOTfu-ten.
LYURO: KISA TOYOSHIMA. WIRED HOTEL, TRUNK HOTEL: KEISUKE TANIGAWA. HOKUTOSEI: MARI HIRATSUKA
WIRED HOTEL ASAKUSA

LYURO TOKYO KIYOSUMI THE SHARE HOTELS Conjured up by the folks behind Tokyo’s ubiquitous Wired
Set along the banks of the Sumida River in a renovated office building, Café chain together with Portland-based creative agency
this somewhat clunkily named newcomer is a welcome alternative to OMFGCO, known for their Ace Hotels in London and across
the area’s clutch of overpriced hipster hostels. The nautically themed the US, this stylish hotel opened just off Asakusa’s Hisago-
décor – think water-inspired graphics on the wallpaper and room dori in April. On the ground floor you’ll find Zakbaran, a
signs – create an illusion of strolling around on a very big ship that has café-bar that non-guests are welcome to use too. Sweets
washed up on the river bank. The sleeping quarters are a mix of privates and snacks made from soy milk and tofu stud the menu,
and dorms, with all 18 of the former facing the river, which means they alongside a strictly curated sake lineup. Rooms range from
boast great views – particularly from the en-suite bathrooms. And to dormitories, bright singles and doubles to a luxurious
make your bath time even more enjoyable, they’ve installed speakers penthouse, and cater to a range of travellers. At ¥10,000 a
and portable TVs – all waterproof, we’re happy to report – next to the night, the regular singles probably offer the best value: their
tubs. Even if you’re not staying the night, it’s worth making the trek over bathrooms resemble those found in your average business
to Kiyosumi for Lyuro’s river terrace, which is open to the public and hotel, but the rest of the décor is just as sleek as in Wired’s
houses barbecue restaurant Pitmans and the neighbourhood’s fancier rooms – some of which bring to mind an expensive
first microbrewery. New York City flat.
à1-1-7 Kiyosumi, Koto (Kiyosumi-Shirakawa Station). tinyurl.com/TOTlyuro. à2-16-2 Asakusa, Taito (Tawaramachi Station). tinyurl.com/TOTwired.
Getting Around
Getting Get your Going

Goingunderground?
underground?
Around wheels
Where to rent the best bikes in Tokyo.
Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system
Welcome to the world’s most efficient transport system
By Kirsty Bouwers
SURE, TOKYO PUBLIC transport is MUJIRUSHI RYOHIN

very convenient, but nothing beats To explore the Marunouchi
having your own two wheels and district or otaku mecca Akihabara
the flexibility to explore the city – both a short ride away from the
at your own pace and without the Imperial Palace – rent a bicycle
constraints of the train timetable. from Muji’s Yurakucho store. As
Get in on the whole mamachari you’d expect from Muji, they’re
(mom’s bicycle) lifestyle, so to sturdy, well-designed bikes; not
speak. Whether you’re looking to your average mamachari.
rent a bicycle for a few hours, days à3-8-3 Marunouchi, Chiyoda. 10am-8pm
or a month, we’ve got you covered. (bike pickup until 6pm). ¥1,000/day (a deposit
of ¥3,000 is required so bring enough cash).
COMMUNITYCYCLE Reservations 03 5208 8241 or in person. tinyurl.
This is essentially Tokyo’s com/totmujiyurakucho.
Getting Around
lesser-known and electrified
answer to Paris’s Velibs and TAITO-KU RENT A BICYCLE
London’s Boris Bikes: the The cheapest option we’ve
Docomo-sponsored e-bikes (yes, found in Tokyo and popular
they have a little motor to help with backpackers staying in
you out when climbing hills or the area, this ward-sponsored
when you’re just plain lazy) are rental programme only charges
scattered throughout the city and you ¥200 for four hours of
only require a code to unlock. pedalling or ¥300 for a full day.
Register online, choose between The only downside is that you’re
30-minute, daily or monthly technically not supposed to
hires, hop on and then return stray (too far) from the Taito
it at one of the docking stations area with your mamachari
located in well over 200 spots wheels, and if your hostel or
across town. apartment doesn’t have secure
àDocking stations around Bunkyo, Chiyoda, bike parking, they may refuse
Chuo, Koto, Minato and Shinjuku wards. Prices and to rent a bicycle to you for more
payment options differ per plan and rental time. than a day. Bring a passport
Check docomo-cycle.jp/chiyoda/en for details. or ID, as they’ll require a
photocopy of this.
COGICOGI àFour pick-up locations inside Taito ward,
Another e-bike sharing plan, including next to Azumabashi Bridge. Note that all
this new kid on the block mainly of them are below ground – find their addresses
operates in and around the Shibuya (in Japanese) at tinyurl.com/taitobikerental.
area, but is expanding with docking 6am-8pm (returns until 8.30pm). ¥200/4h,
ports in convenient places across ¥300/day, ¥600/3 days, ¥1,200/7 days.
the city, including near centrally
located hotels. Currently, they TOKYOBIKE RENTALS YANAKA
offer 12, 24 and 48-hour ‘all-you- Your rental bike has never
can-ride’ plans: use their bikes for looked as cool: TokyoBike
as long and as many times as you offers some seriously hipster-
like within that time period for a set fabulous rides a short cycle away
price. Payments and reservations from Ueno. That minimalist
are made through their app, which coolness comes at a price,
is currently only in Japanese – however, with their one-day
although an English one was in the rentals starting at a somewhat
works at the time of writing. Turn steep ¥2,500. Book ahead
on bluetooth once you’re near one through their website and
of the ports, open the app and you’ll remember to bring some form
be able to unlock a bike. High-tech of ID with you on the day.

meets pedal power. à4-2-39 Yanaka, Taito. 10am-6.30pm, closed
àDocking ports around Shibuya, and a few in Wed. One-day rental ¥2,500, each additional
Chiyoda, Sumida and Taito wards. ¥2,100/12h, day ¥1,500. Reservation required through their
¥2,400/24h, ¥3,600/48h (plus tax). cogicogi.jp. website: tinyurl.com/tottokyobikerental.
Time Out Tokyo July-September, 2017 70 71 For your full, up-to-the-minute guide to Tokyo visit
July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo
www.timeout.com/tokyo 77
Getting Around Getting Around
TOKYO’S BEST
Ghost-spotting 4
spots
There’s something strange in these neighbourhoods…
By Kirsty Bouwers
IN JAPAN , as soon as the temperatures soar and firework festivals start lighting up the night sky,
thoughts turn to the yurei (spirits or spectres), while peak supernatural time is reached in August,
when the Buddhist Obon festival for the dead takes place. Here are the settings for the city’s most
famous ghost stories…
1. OIWA SHRINE: YOTSUYA KAIDAN

Arguably Japan’s most celebrated spook
goes that his bodiless head flew to Tokyo and
eventually settled in Otemachi.
story, ‘Yotsuya Kaidan’ is loosely based on two Removing or relocating Masakado’s grave has 3
historical characters. It sees a woman, Oiwa proved difficult, as any attempts to do so have
Iemon, gradually poisoned by her husband supposedly been plagued by misfortune. When
Tamiya, who is having an affair. After her death, the nearby Ministry of Finance tried to level the
1
she comes back to haunt him by impersonating hill after the 1923 Great Kanto earthquake, 14
his newly betrothed, upon which he kills the new workers related to the project dropped dead in a 2
wifey by accident. Oops. series of bizarre incidents.
Although Oiwa’s grave is actually at a temple in The 1,000-year curse holds to this day, with
Sugamo, the story is more commonly associated multiple tales of people falling ill or dying after
with Oiwa Inari Tamiya Shrine in Yotsuya, said the shrine had been tampered with in any way.
to have been built to appease her tormented It’s even said that desks inside the buildings
soul. To this day, film crews and theatre troupes clustered around the shrine are placed so as
staging adaptations of the story head to Oiwa’s to not make anyone sit with their back to old
grave before shooting to ‘ask for permission’ – so Masakado – lest he take offence.
she doesn’t come back to haunt them.
2. KII NO KUNI-ZAKA: THE ‘MUJINA’ OF

AKASAKA ROAD
4. SUNSHINE 60: WAR CRIMINAL
EXECUTION SITE
Some bright spark decided it would be a good 5
A 15-minute walk from Oiwa Shrine, Kii no idea to put up one of the then tallest buildings
Kuni-zaka is the hill running past Akasaka in Japan on the spot of the old Sugamo prison.
Palace towards Akasaka Station. In the legend At least seven war criminals were executed here
of ‘Mujina’, a man walking down the slope after World War II, while many other unsavoury
encounters an upper-class girl who is crying on characters were stuck between its walls.
the banks of the moat with her face in her hands. Consequently, believers say, the construction
He tries to console her while she keeps weeping, of Sunshine 60 had its share of accidents and
hiding her face. Eventually, she faces him and apparently apparitions still haunt the place –
lowers her kimono sleeves – and it turns out she residents have reported seeing fireballs floating
lacks all facial features. around on occasion.
The man is terrified and sprints away. Spotting
light at the top of the hill, he runs towards a
lonely noodle seller, in front of whom he drops
to the floor and starts stammering about what
5. ROPPONGI HILLS: GRAVES OF THE 47 RONIN
Apparently learning nothing from
Sunshine 60, bright spark number two chose
he just saw. Rather unsympathetically, the seller to build a massive shopping complex on top of
replies ‘Was it something like this?’ and waves what is apparently the gravesite of some of the
a hand across his face, after which all of his legendary 47 ronin (masterless samurai). To
features disappear... be fair, the history of the ronin is so vague that
no one seems to be sure about when and where
3. OTEMACHI: TAIRA NO MASAKADO

Wander around the high-rise buildings of
Otemachi long enough and you will spot a small
they actually died, but some people believe that
Roppongi Hills and its businesses have been
cursed since the 2002 opening, with multiple
stone shrine. This is the grave of decapitated tales of grisly fatal accidents, business scandals
10th-century samurai Taira no Masakado. and residents suffering spectacular social falls
After his unfortunate demise in Kyoto, the fable from grace. Don’t mess with the ronin.
Your local arcade lets
You know you flip a dinner table
into the air
you’re By Benjamin Boas and Marcus Webb
in Tokyo
AS UNIQUELY JAPANESE as owl cafés, capsule hotels and
naked festivals, video arcades – or ‘game centres’ – are an
essential experience in Tokyo. Just come prepared for a
full-contact affair.
when… THE SUMO

Arcade games allow us all to live
our fantasy life for a few short
minutes, and for some that means
being a yokozuna (sumo grand
master). Enter The Sumo and its
short but sturdy plastic foe who
you must push out of the ring.
Best do the groundwork ahead of
‘UFO CATCHER’ CRANE GAMES time and bulk up massively – six
Now far be it for us to cast aspersions on arcade owners months on 10,000 calories a day,
in faraway lands, but there are rumours that crane including endless bowlfuls of
games in the West are, well, rigged. We’ve had reports chanko nabe (the high-protein
that the claw is programmed to only complete a full sumo stew) should do the job.
grab up to one in 50 times and even then is ordered to If you fail to prepare properly
release its bounty just before the official dropzone. you might get lucky in the early
Not so here in Tokyo. It’s all skill, all the way. For some rounds – the fake wrestler is
that means a huge collection of stuffed animals, giant easily pushed backwards on its
chocolate bars and anime tat – the rest of us just lost our tracks – but you’ll never become a
excuse for another of life’s failures. grand champion.
TAIKO NO TATSUJIN CHABUDAI GAESHI

Think banging a giant taiko drum is If films from the fifties are to be believed, the only way a frustrated
purely the preserve of the muscled Japanese office worker could release their anger was by upending
and the rhythmically gifted? Think the household dinner table, expressing their rage by propelling bits
again. Taiko no Tatsujin lets you beat of miso soup, steamed egg and sukiyaki onto their walls and family
away to your heart’s content. A screen members. If this sounds like an experience you’d like to undertake
screams at you to hit, roll and pound in but without the resulting cleaning/counselling/divorce bill, you’re in
time with the music and often flashes luck because there’s an arcade game for that. It even has a plot of sorts,
a demoralising percentage at the end which hints at the troubled mind of its creator, with the characters
of the tune – how is it possible to have of the ‘nagging wife’ and ‘ungrateful children’ flung to the floor and
minus rhythm? covered in virtual supper.
VIRTUAL HORSE RACING

WANI WANI PANIC If you believe games are not about winning
In a city where most workplaces but taking part, you’ll love Virtual Horse
expect you to keep your personality Racing. Usually at the back of the arcade,
bottled up like an agoraphobic genie, hidden from the entrance, you’ll find
it’s important to let off steam once mechanical horses the size of large hamsters
in awhile. Enter Wani Wani Panic, prancing around the world’s smallest
a local take on Whack-a-Mole, and racetrack. Pick one and then watch as the
the unexpected catharsis of bopping race comes to its predetermined finish. The
a crocodile full on the nose with all bonkers bit: even if your horse wins, you can’t
your might. It’s the crocs or your keep the medals ‘awarded’ to you. You know
co-workers, right? what they say – the house always wins.
In the next issue of Time Out Tokyo…

Available across Tokyo
ILLUSTRATIONS: KENTO IIDA
Food frenzy
We round up autumn’s tastiest eats
from September 2017

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In July 2017, a brand-new theater opened in Tokyo’s Alternative Theatre implements state-of-the-art

Just add water

Making a splash Secret Kyoto

â FEATURES AND REGULARS

Cover Consulting Editor International

5 July-September, 2017 Time Out Tokyo

Update NO SMOKE WITHOUT IRE

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PHOTO: KEISUKE TANIGAWA

FLOATING PUMPKINS APP

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