Sun Care in France

Euromonitor International
May 2023
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LIST OF CONTENTS AND TABLES

KEY DATA FINDINGS.................................................................................................................. 1
2022 DEVELOPMENTS ............................................................................................................... 1
Sun care sales explode in 2022, thanks to post-pandemic landscape and long hot summer ... 1
Sun care is A crowded category, with A plethora of brands and regular incomers ................... 1
Manufacturers reformulate their products to stay ahead of eco-trends ..................................... 1
PROSPECTS AND OPPORTUNITIES......................................................................................... 2
Positive forecast for sun care directly linked to global warming issues ..................................... 2
“Green” wave will continue to flow over the forecast period ...................................................... 2
More regular usage of sun care products is expected, in light of the changing climate ............ 3
CATEGORY DATA ....................................................................................................................... 3
Table 1 Sales of Sun Care by Category: Value 2017-2022 ....................................... 3
Table 2 Sales of Sun Care by Category: % Value Growth 2017-2022 ...................... 3
Table 3 NBO Company Shares of Sun Care: % Value 2018-2022 ........................... 4
Table 4 LBN Brand Shares of Sun Care: % Value 2019-2022 .................................. 4
Table 5 LBN Brand Shares of Premium Adult Sun Care: % Value 2019-2022.......... 5
Table 6 Forecast Sales of Sun Care by Category: Value 2022-2027 ........................ 6
Table 7 Forecast Sales of Sun Care by Category: % Value Growth 2022-2027 ....... 6

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SUN CARE IN FRANCE

KEY DATA FINDINGS
▪ Retail value sales increase by 23% in current terms in 2022 to EUR472 million
▪ Baby and child-specific sun care is the best performing category in 2022, with retail value
sales growing by 27% in current terms to EUR25 million
▪ Pierre Fabre SA, Laboratoires is the leading player in 2022, with a retail value share of 16%
▪ Retail sales are set to grow at a current value CAGR of 6% (2022 constant value CAGR of
3%) over the forecast period to EUR618 million

2022 DEVELOPMENTS

Sun care sales explode in 2022, thanks to post-pandemic landscape

and long hot summer
Sun care was the big winner in 2022, in both value and volume terms, thanks to the full
reopening of society after the era of the pandemic, with the return of tourism and international
travel, coupled with a long and hot summer in France during the year – in contrast to the
gloomier weather in 2021. Indeed, premium adult sun care was the best-performing category in
both mass and premium beauty and personal care in 2022. However, it should also be noted
that there was a strong catch-up effect seen here, following the slumps during the lockdown era,
which has resulted in atypical higher sales overall.

Sun care is A crowded category, with A plethora of brands and regular

incomers
Sun care is a crowded category, with fierce competition between leading brand Avène
(Laboratoires Pierre Fabre SA), second-placed Garnier Ambre Solaire (Gemey Maybelline
Garnier SNC), and third-placed Nivea Sun (Beiersdorf (France) SA). La Roche Posay
(Cosmétique Active International (CAI) (NBO) and L'Oréal Groupe (GBO)) also holds a decent
fourth place. However, these leading players are facing rising challenges from dermocosmetics
and organic brands (e.g., SVR, Accorelle, Cattier, Laboratoire Biarritz, Mimitika, Saint-Tropez,
Polaar), and entrants such as digitally native vertical brands (DNVBs) or other start-ups such as
La Rosée, Kerbi, Midi 12, Aùn, Respire, etc. Also, in 2022, the Hawaiian Tropic brand (from
Wilkinson Sword SA), omnipresent in the mass market, arrived with new references in the
pharmacy channel.
2022 also saw a disruptive innovation from Laboratoires Biarritz, which launched self-tanning
drops for the face, and body, in a drop-by-drop format, recyclable glass bottle. This product can
be mixed with any type of skin care formula (cream, gel, lotion, etc.) and, depending on the skin
and the number of drops added to the usual care product, it allows users to obtain a tailor-made
tan.

Manufacturers reformulate their products to stay ahead of eco-trends

Consumers' mistrust regarding the composition of sun care products is putting pressure on
players to review their formulas, remove unnecessary or potentially harmful chemicals, and
shorten ingredient lists. The naturalness trend is influencing a transformation in the category,
with major players and newcomers increasingly paying attention to the sustainability of their

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products. For example, Corine de Farme has altered the formulae of its products so they are
comprised of sun filters, uncontroversial preservatives, non-mineral oils, and natural active
ingredients. Similarly, Biotherm by L'Oréal launched a new version of its Waterlover Sun Milk
with a 97% biodegradable base formula and a 100% recycled and recyclable plastic bottle, while
Nivea introduced easily biodegradable formulae and bottles made from 100% recycled PET.
Some sun care brands specifically focus their products on having as little impact on the
oceans as possible. This has led to L’Oréal Groupe (GBO) developing a formula and filters that
are more respectful of coral reefs which is used by its La Roche Posay dermocosmetics brand
in Anthélios. A-Derma is also focusing on reducing the harm caused by its products to marine
life, while Caudalie products avoid the use of oxybenzone and octinoxate filters that are toxic to
coral. This is becoming increasingly important consumers, and players must continue to
innovate to ensure eco-conscious consumers are willing to continue purchasing their products.
While chemical filters such as octocrylene and oxybenzone are increasingly regarded as toxic
for both human and marine life (as they are endocrine disruptors), organic brands maintain that
the two natural filters they use, titanium dioxide and zinc oxide, are safe. In mass sun protection,
Nivea Sun has launched a new range of SPF 50+ mineral filters for children that contain neither
octocrylene, octinoxate, oxybenzone, phenoxyethanol, parabens nor perfumes. According to
Biotherm highlights, its Waterlover sun protection is 94% biodegradable and comes in 100%
recycled and recyclable packaging, while SVR Laboratory has reformulated its Sun Secure
range to limit its toxicity to humans and the environment.

PROSPECTS AND OPPORTUNITIES

Positive forecast for sun care directly linked to global warming issues
Ongoing global warming issues will ultimately support sales in sun care over the forecast
period. Indeed, in this context, consumers will have to be increasingly vigilant with regards to the
harmful effects of the sun on the skin. As such, sun care products have a bright future ahead –
somewhat to the detriment of the planet. We should also remember that sun care is a highly
competitive category, thus brands will need to create and sustain a balanced mix of product
innovation, committed and avant-garde eco-responsibility, communication generating
desirability, and inclusivity in their messaging.

“Green” wave will continue to flow over the forecast period

The wave of "green" will continue to flow over the forecast period, with players focussing on
cleaning up the contested ingredients in their formulas, being those which are potentially
harmful to the skin of the user, along with the aquatic eco-systems. Packaging will also play a
part here, with manufacturers from rising digitally native vertical brands (DNVBs, being those
which began selling goods or services directly to consumers through e-commerce channels,
often relying heavily on digital marketing) to giants such as Garnier, committing to eco-
responsible designs using 100% recyclable and recycled plastic. In 2022, Nivea was promoting
its Protect and Bronze range, for example, with a 76% biodegradable formula which is respectful
of the oceans (without octinoxate, oxybenzone, octocrylene filters, or microplastics). Garnier's
latest Ambre Solaire milk for children has a very high protection formula that is also 90%
biodegradable. Indeed, all sunscreen products with the coveted Cosmébio label are prohibited
from using octocrylene in their formulas. As such, it is expected that this “green” wave will
continue with force over the forecast period.

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More regular usage of sun care products is expected, in light of the

changing climate
Sun care will be increasingly integrated into daily life. Protect your skin all year round? Yes,
especially against free radicals. Indeed, there is an awareness of the fragility of the skin in the
face of the sun's rays, which leads consumers to generalise SPF 50 for effective protection –
with this being the norm for many adults, instead of SPF 50 mainly being allocated to use for
children and those with particularly sun-sensitive skin. In addition, sun protection is increasingly
integrated into skin care products (in day creams or anti-acne products, for example) and colour
cosmetics (foundation, for example), and this is also gradually expected to become the norm.
That said, the inclusion of sun care formulas in skin care products is typically at lower SPF
levels than dedicated high-factor sun care itself, which means that consumers are likely to use
both integrated products and those which are specialised for sun care per se.

CATEGORY DATA
Table 1 Sales of Sun Care by Category: Value 2017-2022

EUR million
2017 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

Baby and Child-specific 19.5 20.2 20.6 18.9 19.8 25.1

Sun Care
-- Mass Sun Protection 137.6 142.6 141.1 129.3 127.0 151.8
-- Premium Sun Protection 159.5 166.7 173.7 145.1 158.7 203.0
- Sun Protection 297.1 309.3 314.8 274.4 285.8 354.8
-- Mass Self-Tanning 21.2 20.8 20.0 16.6 16.0 18.4
-- Premium Self-Tanning 18.5 18.1 17.4 15.5 15.7 18.4
- Self-Tanning 39.7 38.9 37.4 32.0 31.7 36.8
-- Mass Aftersun 24.5 24.8 24.2 21.6 21.2 25.6
-- Premium Aftersun 27.3 27.5 27.4 24.9 24.5 29.7
- Aftersun 51.8 52.3 51.7 46.5 45.7 55.2
Adult Sun Care 388.6 400.5 403.9 352.9 363.2 446.9
Sun Care 408.0 420.7 424.5 371.9 382.9 471.9
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 2 Sales of Sun Care by Category: % Value Growth 2017-2022

% current value growth

2021/22 2017-22 CAGR 2017/22 Total

Baby and Child-specific Sun Care 26.9 5.2 29.0

-- Mass Sun Protection 19.5 2.0 10.3
-- Premium Sun Protection 27.9 4.9 27.3
- Sun Protection 24.2 3.6 19.4
-- Mass Self-Tanning 14.9 -2.8 -13.4
-- Premium Self-Tanning 17.7 -0.1 -0.5
- Self-Tanning 16.3 -1.5 -7.4
-- Mass Aftersun 20.3 0.8 4.2
-- Premium Aftersun 21.2 1.7 8.9
- Aftersun 20.8 1.3 6.7
Adult Sun Care 23.0 2.8 15.0
Sun Care 23.2 3.0 15.7

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Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 3 NBO Company Shares of Sun Care: % Value 2018-2022

% retail value rsp

Company 2018 2019 2020 2021 2022

Pierre Fabre SA, 13.4 13.6 13.8 14.7 15.8

Laboratoires
Beiersdorf (France) SA 13.7 13.8 13.9 13.4 13.3
Gemey Maybelline Garnier 13.5 13.5 13.8 12.9 12.9
SNC
Cosmétique Active 9.5 9.7 10.4 10.8 11.3
International (CAI)
NAOS SAS 4.0 4.1 4.2 4.2 4.5
Clarins SA 4.8 4.8 4.9 4.6 4.5
Coty France SA 4.3 4.3 3.7 3.7 3.5
L'Oréal SA 4.1 4.0 3.9 3.6 3.4
Cilag GmbH International 3.9 3.7 3.6 3.1 2.7
Laboratoire Nuxe SAS 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6
La Phoceenne de 2.8 2.8 2.8 2.3 2.1
Cosmetique SA
Wilkinson Sword SA 1.9 1.8 1.8 1.7 1.7
Sisley CFEB SAS 1.8 1.8 1.8 1.7 1.5
Lancôme Parfums Beauté et 1.4 1.4 1.4 1.3 1.2
Cie
LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis 1.2 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.1
Vuitton SA
Christian Dior SA, Parfums 1.4 1.3 1.3 1.2 1.1
RoC SA 1.1 1.1 1.1 1.0 1.1
Kiko SpA 1.7 1.7 1.5 1.2 1.0
Expanscience SA, 0.8 0.8 0.9 0.8 0.8
Laboratoires
Beauté Prestige 1.4 1.4 1.3 0.9 0.7
International SA
Estée Lauder (France) SA 0.9 0.9 0.9 0.8 0.6
Interlac AG 0.8 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.6
Yves Rocher SA 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4
Headhunter France 0.4 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3
Biocos, Laboratoires - - - - -
Private Label 1.5 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.8
Others 7.0 7.0 6.6 9.2 9.5
Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 4 LBN Brand Shares of Sun Care: % Value 2019-2022

% retail value rsp

Brand (GBO) Company (NBO) 2019 2020 2021 2022

Avène Pierre Fabre SA, 11.9 12.1 13.1 14.1

Laboratoires
Garnier Ambre Solaire Gemey Maybelline Garnier 13.1 13.4 12.5 12.6
(L'Oréal Groupe) SNC
Nivea Sun (Beiersdorf Beiersdorf (France) SA 11.5 11.7 11.3 11.4

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AG)
La Roche-Posay Cosmétique Active 7.9 8.6 9.1 9.7
(L'Oréal Groupe) International (CAI)
Bioderma NAOS SAS 4.1 4.2 4.2 4.5
Clarins Clarins SA 4.8 4.9 4.6 4.5
Lancaster (Coty Inc) Coty France SA 4.3 3.7 3.7 3.5
L'Oréal Paris L'Oréal SA 3.9 3.8 3.6 3.4
(L'Oréal Groupe)
Piz Buin (Johnson & Cilag GmbH International 3.7 3.6 3.1 2.7
Johnson Inc)
Nuxe Sun Laboratoire Nuxe SAS 2.6 2.6 2.6 2.6
Lovea La Phoceenne de 2.8 2.8 2.3 2.1
Cosmetique SA
Hawaiian Tropic Wilkinson Sword SA 1.8 1.8 1.7 1.7
(Edgewell Personal
Care Brands LLC)
Vichy Capital Soleil Cosmétique Active 1.7 1.8 1.7 1.6
(L'Oréal Groupe) International (CAI)
Polysianes Pierre Fabre SA, 1.6 1.6 1.6 1.5
Laboratoires
Sisley Sisley CFEB SAS 1.8 1.8 1.7 1.5
Lancôme Sôleil Lancôme Parfums Beauté et 1.4 1.4 1.3 1.2
(L'Oréal Groupe) Cie
Eucerin Sun Beiersdorf (France) SA 1.5 1.4 1.3 1.2
(Beiersdorf AG)
Dior Bronze (LVMH Christian Dior SA, Parfums 1.3 1.3 1.2 1.1
Moët Hennessy Louis
Vuitton SA)
RoC (RoC Opco LLC) RoC SA 1.1 1.1 1.0 1.1
Kiko Milano Kiko SpA 1.7 1.5 1.2 1.0
Mustela Expanscience SA, 0.8 0.9 0.8 0.8
Laboratoires
Nivea Baby Beiersdorf (France) SA 0.8 0.7 0.7 0.7
(Beiersdorf AG)
Shiseido (Shiseido Co Beauté Prestige 1.4 1.3 0.9 0.7
Ltd) International SA
Soleil des Iles Interlac AG 0.8 0.8 0.7 0.6
Estée Lauder Sun Estée Lauder (France) SA 0.5 0.5 0.5 0.4
Performance (Estée
Lauder Cos Inc)
Yves Rocher Yves Rocher SA 0.5 0.5 0.4 0.4
Garnier Ambre Solaire Gemey Maybelline Garnier 0.4 0.4 0.4 0.4
Kids (L'Oréal Groupe) SNC
Headhunter Headhunter France 0.4 0.3 0.3 0.3
(Headhunter Skincare)
Clinique Sun-Care Estée Lauder (France) SA 0.2 0.2 0.2 0.1
(Estée Lauder Cos Inc)
Clinique Self Sun Estée Lauder (France) SA 0.1 0.1 0.1 0.1
(Estée Lauder Cos Inc)
Private label Private Label 1.5 1.6 1.6 1.8
Others Others 8.3 7.9 10.5 10.9
Total Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 5 LBN Brand Shares of Premium Adult Sun Care: % Value 2019-2022

% retail value rsp

Brand (GBO) Company (NBO) 2019 2020 2021 2022

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RoC (RoC Opco LLC) RoC SA 14.8 14.5 14.7 15.1

Nuxe Sun Laboratoire Nuxe SAS 12.3 13.7 13.7 13.5
Avène Pierre Fabre SA, 10.2 10.1 10.5 10.8
Laboratoires
La Roche-Posay Cosmétique Active 9.1 9.7 10.4 10.4
(L'Oréal Groupe) International (CAI)
Vichy Capital Soleil Cosmétique Active 11.8 12.0 11.6 10.2
(L'Oréal Groupe) International (CAI)
Polysianes Pierre Fabre SA, 9.8 9.7 9.6 9.5
Laboratoires
Bioderma NAOS SAS 6.7 6.7 6.8 7.3
Sisley Sisley CFEB SAS 6.0 5.8 5.9 5.8
Clarins Clarins SA 3.9 3.9 3.7 3.9
Dior Bronze (LVMH Christian Dior SA, Parfums 3.7 3.6 3.2 2.7
Moët Hennessy Louis
Vuitton SA)
Estée Lauder Sun Estée Lauder (France) SA 1.7 1.7 1.7 1.7
Performance (Estée
Lauder Cos Inc)
Clinique After Sun Estée Lauder (France) SA 1.2 1.0 0.8 0.9
(Estée Lauder Cos Inc)
Shiseido (Shiseido Co Beauté Prestige 0.6 0.5 0.5 0.6
Ltd) International SA
RoC (Johnson & RoC SA - - - -
Johnson Inc)
Others Others 8.0 7.1 7.0 7.7
Total Total 100.0 100.0 100.0 100.0
Source: Euromonitor International from official statistics, trade associations, trade press, company research,
store checks, trade interviews, trade sources

Table 6 Forecast Sales of Sun Care by Category: Value 2022-2027

EUR million
2022 2023 2024 2025 2026 2027

Baby and Child-specific 25.1 26.7 28.4 30.1 31.7 33.1

Sun Care
-- Mass Sun Protection 151.8 153.6 157.5 162.9 169.3 176.4
-- Premium Sun Protection 203.0 203.7 209.0 218.1 233.9 254.7
- Sun Protection 354.8 357.3 366.5 381.1 403.2 431.1
-- Mass Self-Tanning 18.4 17.4 16.5 15.7 14.9 14.3
-- Premium Self-Tanning 18.4 17.7 16.8 15.8 14.9 14.2
- Self-Tanning 36.8 35.0 33.2 31.5 29.8 28.5
-- Mass Aftersun 25.6 24.8 24.3 24.0 23.6 23.3
-- Premium Aftersun 29.7 28.7 28.1 27.7 27.4 27.1
- Aftersun 55.2 53.5 52.4 51.7 51.0 50.4
Adult Sun Care 446.9 445.8 452.2 464.2 484.0 510.0
Sun Care 471.9 472.6 480.6 494.3 515.7 543.0
Source: Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews,
trade sources

Table 7 Forecast Sales of Sun Care by Category: % Value Growth 2022-2027

% constant value growth

2022/2023 2022-27 CAGR 2022/27 Total

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Baby and Child-specific Sun Care 6.6 5.7 31.8

-- Mass Sun Protection 1.2 3.1 16.2
-- Premium Sun Protection 0.3 4.6 25.5
- Sun Protection 0.7 4.0 21.5
-- Mass Self-Tanning -5.5 -4.9 -22.1
-- Premium Self-Tanning -4.2 -5.1 -23.2
- Self-Tanning -4.8 -5.0 -22.7
-- Mass Aftersun -3.1 -1.8 -8.9
-- Premium Aftersun -3.2 -1.8 -8.6
- Aftersun -3.1 -1.8 -8.8
Adult Sun Care -0.2 2.7 14.1
Sun Care 0.1 2.8 15.1
Source: Euromonitor International from trade associations, trade press, company research, trade interviews,
trade sources

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