Cut & Sew, FullyFashion

Knit garments: Knit garments are basically three types:
1. Cut and sew knit garments.

2. Fully Fashioned shape knitwear.
3. Complete knitted garments.
Fully Fashioned Garments:
Fully fashioned is the process whereby portions of a garment are shaped at the selvedges by
progressively increasing or decreasing the number of loops in the width of the fabric. Fully
fashioned knitting cuts down on the amount of material required to make a garment by
eliminating selvage, the remnants that would be left after cutting from a rectangular fabric
sheet.
For example, a sweater requires at least four pieces of fabric: two sleeves, the front piece, and
the back piece. Prior to fully fashioned machine techniques, a full sheet of material would have
to be produced, each of the four pieces would be cut out, and the remaining fabric would be
discarded. With full-fashioning, the machine produces only the four required pieces.
Properties of Fully Fashioned Garments:
1. Have no joint/seam.
2. Get 2part in one piece of fabric.
3. Labor cost and wastes is low.
4. Cannot make in different shape and size.
5. Make garments in round/cylinder shape without cutting.
6. Fully fashioned shape in a garment involves the movement of a small number of loops
at the selvedge of the fabric.
7. Fashioning is not done just on the plain fabric, but rib fabric is also being used for
fully fashioning.
8. The fully fashioned garments are produced in hand flat knitting machinery, either v-
bed or domestic single bed machines of various sorts.
9. Using straight bar knitting machinery tend to be of few types.
Advantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:
1. Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.

2. It is very distinctive and easily identifiable by the “fashioning marks” which normally
run parallel to the garment seams.
3. The garment panels are assembled using “cup seaming” and “linking” where usually
the garment sides, sleeves and underarms are cup seamed and the shoulders and
collars are linked.
4. Cost effective (less manpower in design and pattern section)
5. Zero wastage (least amount of wastage)
6. Get two parts in one fabric.
Disadvantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:
1. Low volume production (because of time consuming in increasing or decreasing

needles)
2. Sealed edge garments or quality edge garments (no raw edge because edges are not
being cut)
3. The difference between linking and seaming is that with linking a stitch per stitch
joint results whereas cup seaming stitches the edges of the fabrics together
4. Cannot make it in different size shape garments.
Cut and Sew knit garments:
The cut and sew technique is by far the simplest method of garment construction whereby
individual panel shapes are cut to size from panels (V bed or flatbed) or from a long length of
fabric or cloth (circular knitting machines).
Benefits of Cut & Sew Knitting:
The benefits of the cut and sew route includes the followings:
1) Ease speed of knitting of fabric

2) Total consistency of cut panel sizes and relative ease of garment make-up.
3) The downside is that the seams have to be over-locked prior to sewing or linking to
prevent the exposed stitches from laddering.
4) This produces a seam that is relatively large, bulky and unsightly.
Disadvantages of Cut & Sew Knitting:
1) The cut and sew route is not widely used for wool knitwear production
2) The material wastage (up to 25%) and perceived “lower quality” image makes it less
appealing.
Complete Knitted Garments:
Complete garment knitting is a next-generation form of fully-fashioned knitting that adds the
capability of making a 3-dimensional full garment. Unlike other fully-fashioned knitting, where
the shaped pieces must still be sewn together, finished complete knitted garments do not have
seams. The knitting machines' computerized instructions direct movement of hundreds of
needles to construct and connect several tubular knitted forms to create a complete garment in
a single production step.
Differences between Cut and Sew and Fully Fashioned Knitwear:
Properties Cut and Sew Fully Fashion

1) Machine Made by circular knitting machine. Made by flatbed knitting machine.
Pattern is essential to manufacture Pattern is not essential to
a garment. manufacture a garment. It is
2) Pattern
manufactured by following design
chart.
3) Fabric Long length fabric required to cut Short length fabric is manufactured
length panels according to patterns. according to garments height.
4) Needle Fine gauge machines are used; i.e. Coarse gauge machines are used;
gauge 16, 18, 22, 24, 28 etc. i.e. 3, 4, 5, 7, 10, 12 etc.
5) Yarn Single yarn is used; i.e. 30/1, 40/1 Plied yarn is used; i.e. 2/32
6) GSM GSM is comparatively low. GSM is comparatively high.
Differences between Knit fabric and Woven fabric:
Properties Knit Fabric Woven Fabric

Only one set of yarns is At least two sets of yarn are
1) Set of yarn enough to produce knit fabric. required to produce woven
fabric.
Knit fabric is produced by the Woven fabric is produced by
2) Mechanism
mechanism of knitting. the mechanism of weaving.
3) Dimensional Dimensional stability is poor. Dimensional stability is high.
stability
Single jersey, Rib and Plain, Twill and Satin are the
4) Basic structure Interlock are the basic basic structure of woven fabric.
structure of knit fabric.
5) Manufacturing Fabric is produced by the Fabric is produced by the
technique technique of interloping. technique of interlacing.
Knit fabric is purchased on the Woven fabric is purchased on
6) Purchasing factor basis of weight; i.e. lb, kg etc. the basis of length; i.e. yards,
meters etc.

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Knit garments: Knit garments are basically three types:

1. Cut and sew knit garments.

Fully Fashioned Garments:

Properties of Fully Fashioned Garments:

Advantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:

1. Shaped knitwear is engineered to size and shaped at the point of knitting.

Disadvantages of Fully Fashioned Garments:

1. Low volume production (because of time consuming in increasing or decreasing

Cut and Sew knit garments:

Benefits of Cut & Sew Knitting:

1) Ease speed of knitting of fabric

Disadvantages of Cut & Sew Knitting:

Complete Knitted Garments:

Properties Cut and Sew Fully Fashion

6) GSM GSM is comparatively low. GSM is comparatively high.

Differences between Knit fabric and Woven fabric:

Properties Knit Fabric Woven Fabric

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