Casa de Moda Dolcegabbana
Casa de Moda Dolcegabbana
Casa de Moda Dolcegabbana
Italian luxury fashion house[5] founded in 1985 in Legnano by Italian designers Domenico
Dolce and Stefano Gabbana.[6] The house specializes in ready-to-wear, handbags, accessories,
cosmetics, and fragrances and licenses its name and branding to Luxottica for eyewear.[7]
History[edit]
Early history[edit]
Dolce&Gabbana founders Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana met each other in 1982 while
working for Giorgio Corregiari, an Italian fashion brand. In 1983, the two established their own
design consulting studio, which they named "Dolce & Gabbana".[8] Their first women's collection
debuted in 1985[9] at the New Talents section of Milan Fashion Week, and the following year, they
opened their first store in Milan.[8][10]
The company's 1986 Spring and Summer (SS) collection, titled Geometrissimo was presented
alongside other fashion labels.[9][11] Dolce & Gabbana did not have enough money to hire models or
provide them with accessories, so they sought help from their friends. Their friends served as
models and wore their personal items to accessorize the clothing. A bed sheet from Dolce's home
was used as their stage curtain.[12]
In March 1986, Dolce & Gabbana released their first self-produced collection, Donne Vere/Real
Women, for the Fall and Winter (FW) 1986/87 season.[8] The name of the collection was influenced
by the local women who served as models on the runway.[11] However, sales were initially
disappointing, and Gabbana canceled the fabric order for their second collection. Dolce's family later
offered to help with costs during a visit to Sicily over Christmas. Incidentally, the fabric company did
not receive the cancellation notice in time, and the fabric was ready for them when they returned to
Milan.[8] In September 1986, Dolce&Gabbana presented the SS 1987 Women's fashion show
entitled Trasformismo.
The fashion house continued to gain recognition, and in 1987, Dolce & Gabbana presented the
Women's SS 1988 fashion show, entitled Il Gattopardo/The Leopard line. The following year, they
began designing underwear and swimwear, and by 1990, the company was exporting their products
to Japan and the United States. In the same year, they launched their first perfume, Dolce&Gabbana
Pour Homme and Dolce&Gabbana Pour Femme, produced and distributed by Euroitalia.[13][14]
In 1990 the company opened its first women's boutique in Via Sant'Andrea, Milan.[11] Michael
Gross wrote of their third collection in a 1992 interview, "They were a secret known only to a handful
of Italian fashion editors. Their few models changed behind a rickety screen. They called their
collection of T-shirt-cotton and elastic-silk pieces, Transformation." The clothing in this collection
came with instructions on the seven different ways a piece could be worn in an outfit, as the wearer
could use Velcro and snaps to alter the clothing's form.[15]
Dolce & Gabbana's fourth collection, influenced by Dolce's Sicilian roots, made an impact on the
Italian fashion market. The collection's advertising campaign was shot in Sicily by
photographer Ferdinando Scianna and featured Dutch model Marpessa Hennink in black and white
pictures reminiscent of Italian cinema from the 1940s.[16][17] The brand's use of Italian cinema as a
theme continued in their fifth collection, which drew upon the work of filmmaker Luchino Visconti and
his film The Leopard.[11]
One of the dresses from their fourth collection, called The Sicilian Dress, became iconic for the
brand and was named one of the 100 most important dresses ever designed by author Hal
Rubenstein. The dress is considered to be the epitome of Dolce & Gabbana's style, with a slip-like
silhouette that emphasizes the figure and flares out at the knees to create a swaying motion when
walking.[18]
1980s and 1990s[edit]
In 1987, Dolce & Gabbana launched their first knitwear collection line,[19] and in 1989, they started an
underwear and beachwear collection. In the same year, they launched their first women's fashion
show in Tokyo and opened their first store in Japan in partnership with Kashiyama Co.[20]
In April 1990, they held their first fashion show in New York, started exporting their products to the
United States, and founded their own showroom. That same year, Dolce&Gabbana presented the
first Men's FW 1990/1991 collection.[21] The collection features linear-cut garments, characterized by
dark and solid shades, such as black, gray and burgundy. The common thread of the collection is
the high-waisted trousers, combined with shirts, wool sweaters and blazers.[21] In 1990 as well, the
brand moved the design house into its first official offices.[21] The company also began to design
gowns and other more expensive pieces in addition to their original clothing.[15]
Their 1990 Spring/Summer women's collection, featured in the Gli Anni '60 women's fashion show,
referenced the mythological painting of Raphael, and the duo began to build a reputation for crystal-
encrusted clothing.[22] The 1991 Fall/Winter women's collection was also adorned by trinkets,
including filigree medals and embellished corsets. The 1992 Fall/Winter women's collection was then
inspired by the silver screen of the 1950s, though the collection still included crystal embellished
body suits.[22]
In 1991, their men's collection won the Woolmark Award for the most innovative men's collection of
the year.[20] Madonna wore a corset made of gemstones and an accompanying jacket from Dolce &
Gabbana at the 1991 New York City premiere of Truth or Dare: In Bed with Madonna, which is
considered their first foray into international recognition. The duo partnered with Madonna in 1993 to
design over 1500 costumes for the artist's Girlie Show international tour in support of her 1992
album Erotica.[21] In 1994, the house's trademark double-breasted jacket was named "La Turlington"
after model Christy Turlington. That same year the company launched the D&G brand, a line
produced and distributed by Ittierre, aimed at younger individuals.
In 1993, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme was awarded the Perfume Academy's 1993 award for best
feminine fragrance of the year; Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme, was the recipient of the best
masculine fragrance of the year award from the same academy in 1995.[23]
They won an "Oscar des Parfums" for best male perfume in 1996 from the French Parfum Academy,
the first time ever that the title has been awarded to an Italian brand. Towards the end of the 1990s
their sales were around $500 million and in 2003 alone, their revenue reached $633.2 million.
In 1990, they launched their first men's collection.[21] That year, they also moved the design house
into its first official offices and began to design gowns and other more expensive pieces in addition to
their original clothing.[15] Their 1990 Spring/Summer women's collection referenced the mythological
painting of Raphael, and the duo began to build a reputation for crystal-encrusted clothing. The 1991
Fall/Winter women's collection was also adorned by trinkets, including filigree medals and
embellished corsets. The 1992 Fall/Winter women's collection was then inspired by the silver screen
of the 1950s, though the collection still included crystal embellished body suits.[22]
In 1993, Dolce & Gabbana Pour Femme was awarded the Perfume Academy's 1993 award for best
feminine fragrance of the year; Dolce & Gabbana pour Homme, was the recipient of the best
masculine fragrance of the year award from the same academy in 1995.[24]
In 1995, the brand presented the SS 1996 Women's fashion show, Le Eolie, featuring garments with
leopard and zebra prints. That same year Dolce & Gabbana's collections caused a controversy with
the British and Italian press, when they selected the American gangster motif as inspiration for their
work.[25] The brand transposed this Fall/Winter 1995 inspiration onto women's wear, which critics
stated brought an erotic edge to the clothing. The duo had used the motif before in 1992 when
photographer Steven Meisel shot an ad campaign for the house in which the models posed in
"gangster chic". This included wide-lapelled 1930s style coats and black leather caps.[26]
In 1996 the D&G runway show was streamed on the Internet instead of being held on a physical
runway, in an experimental move towards new media. That year Dolce & Gabbana also designed
the costumes for the film Romeo + Juliet.[27]
2000s[edit]
Dolce&Gabbana worked with various musical artists in the 2000s, designing costumes for
Madonna's Drowned World Tour in 2001, Missy Elliott, Beyoncé, and Mary J. Blige's international
tours and Whitney Houston's My Love Is Your Love tour.[27][28][29] Additionally, they designed costumes
for Kylie Minogue's Showgirl Homecoming tour and featured Madonna in their 2010 advertising
campaigns.[18]
During this time, Dolce & Gabbana drew inspiration from the sport of football, and their designs
continued to influence trends in both fashion and music.[21][30] In 2002, their early corset designs were
revived by many European designers as a trend.[31] The brand also began holding private viewings of
their new collections for buyers to pre-empt the copying of their designs by fast fashion companies.[32]
In 2006, the company started a new journey in accessories and leather goods for men and women.
In the same year, the brand launched a controversial ad campaign featuring two men kissing, which
received criticism from some conservatives. However, the Advertising Standards Authority of Italy
did not find the ad unacceptable for broadcast solely based on the depiction of two men kissing.[33]
In February 2009, the Dolce&Gabbana makeup line was launched. Dolce & Gabbana created their
first makeup in collaboration with make-up artist Pat McGrath. Scarlett Johansson appeared as the
face of the advertising campaign for this new venture.[34]
2010s[edit]