MRP-004 - Brake Bleed - S08-001 v6.1
MRP-004 - Brake Bleed - S08-001 v6.1
MRP-004 - Brake Bleed - S08-001 v6.1
1 OVERVIEW
This document describes the brakes bleeding procedure for the M7 Electro race car.
3 mechanics will be required to complete the processes described below, when pumping brake
pedal with Foot pressure.
- No.1 mechanic (#1) To sit in the car and pump the pedal using foot pressure. Use fresh
“Castrol React SRF Racing” fluid.
- 2 mechanics, one on each axle, with nytril gloves, a 10 mm spanner and a bleed bottle.
Mechanic working on front axle to keep watch of fluid reservoir levels and “top up” as
required.
This document covers only the mechanical-fluid brake lines. For BBW module maintenance
please refer to Systems engineer.
Brake bleed must be done with a passive BBW system, hence car has to be on P0 or P1
while performing the bleeds.
After a full brake re-assembly or car transport, read next chapter 3 below – “Full
system bleed”.
Steps:
Perform BBW bleed before any standard brake bleed is done.
Refer to chapter 5 below.
1) Open brake fluid reservoirs and place cap on a clean tray. Fill in front and rear brake liquid
reservoirs. Place caps back onto reservoirs to eliminate “splash back” or dirt ingress.
Make sure there’s enough liquid in the reservoirs AT ALL TIMES during the whole
bleed process. In case air goes into any line at any point, a full system bleed should
be performed for that axle.
#2 must constantly check liquid amount while pumping and fill in if needed.
2) Starting from the right-hand-side caliper (RHS) outboard bleed nipple (the “furthest away”
line in this car), position the 10 mm spanner on the nipple and fit the rubber tube from the
bleed bottle on it, making sure there’s a tight clean fit between tube and nipple and no air
can go through.
3) #1 will proceed to pump the brake pedal, at least 5x times, using long and smooth
applications, With #1 mechanic holding brake pressure (60 – 75 BAR), give verbal message
to #2 mechanics “PRESSURE”,
4) #2 mechanics to open the bleed nipple approximately ¼ turn and watch fluid/air escape the
system. When #1 feels pedal travel to max, #1 mechanic to give verbal message “DOWN”.
5) #2 mechanics to close the bleed nipple and give verbal message “CLOSED”. #1 mechanic to
release the pedal.
6) Repeat this process a minimum of 3 times or continue until #2 mechanics give verbal
message “CLEAR” once no air bubbles are escaping through the hose to the brake bleed
bottle.
DO NOT OVERTIGHT the nipple, use the minimum torque needed to lock it.
7) Move to the next “furthest” bleed line. For this car, this is the order:
8) Repeat the process from point 2 to 6 for each line, until all clear. Make sure to re-
check and re-fill fluid levels before starting each iteration.
9) Once all lines completed, fill up brake fluid reservoirs to ½ of their capacity (use AP
horizontal A line as a reference) and close the tank. Make sure cap’s thread fits in nice and
straight before tightening.
10) Torque all brake calliper nipples using a torque wrench, up to:
a) 15 Nm when brakes cold.
b) 10 Nm when brakes hot.
11) Clean up nipples, calipers and reservoirs of any fluid spills. Empty bleed bottles if needed,
on the right waste tank, and pack them correctly. Clean floors of any fluid spills.
At the end of the day, or before packing for transport, clean bleed bottles.
Make sure you dry the bottles before transport.
2) Starting from the right-hand-side caliper (RHS) outboard bleed nipple (the “furthest
away” line in this car), position the 10 mm spanner on the nipple and fit the rubber tube
from the bleed bottle on it, making sure there’s a tight clean fit between tube and nipple
and no air can go through.
3) Loosen the nipple torque by tapping the spanner lightly, holding the spanner fit on the
nipple with the other hand, and open the line anti-clockwise up to ¼ of a turn. Inform
#1 by calling “OPEN”.
4) #1 will proceed to pump the brake pedal, at least 5x times, using long and smooth
applications, calling “PUMPING”. #2 mechanics will pay attention to fluid/air escaping
into the brake bleed bottle.
5) From the 4th pump, #2 mechanics can call “CLEAR” once only fluid with no air bubbles
are escaping through their hose to the brake bleed bottle.
6) Once both front and rear lines are clear, #1 depress the brake pedal fully and will give
the verbal message “DOWN”. #2 mechanics will proceed to CLOSE bleed nipple.
7) Move to the next “furthest” bleed line. For this car, this is the order:
8) Repeat the process from point 2 to 6 for each line, until all clear. Make sure to re-check
and re-fill fluid levels before starting each iteration.
9) After completing this process on all brake bleed nipples. Proceed to BRAKE SYSTEM
MAINTENANCE BLEED set out in section 2 (above)
Follow the steps from “Brake System Bleed” above and repeat the procedure from points
2 to 7 at least twice, or as many times as necessary until no air is left in the system.
After a long car freight, before filling up the tanks in step (1) with fresh fluid, open the
lines and pump the brakes to reduce the old fluid on the reservoirs to a minimum. Make
sure no air goes into the system!
5 BBW
BBW bleeding is not needed with the LSP system. After brake bleeding completed, Systems
Engineer to perform pre-drive check 1 & 2 and characterise the system.
If brake hard lines have been removed from the car or have been drained of fluid, a gravity refill
will be required before connecting to the BBW.
To do this:
1) Attach male Staubli dry break fitting, with open hose on the end, to hard line from
reservoir.
2) Let fluid run through the line into a clean, empty jug until clear from air bubbles.
3) Disconnect Staubi dry brake while fluid is flowing.
Note that in case of a hot bleed, the System Engineer must characterise again the BBW system.