KSC or KWA Glock 18C Hammer Spring Installation

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KSC/KWA Glock 18C Hammer Spring


Installation
(or, a dodgy G18C disassembly guide)

Review and info about the High Power Upgrade Kit for the G18C

Got one of these? Want to


keep it looking just like
this? Then you should
probably leave this page
right now.

Everything you have read or heard about the hammer spring installation on the
KSC / KWA Glock 18C is true. It's a real horror show.

If you are brave or foolish and still want to attempt it, or you have already
attempted it and are desperate for clues on how to reassemble your gun, then
maybe this page can help.

WARNINGS:
Like a puzzle, there is only ONE way to put the parts together to get a working
gun. Unlike a puzzle, the parts can fit together in many ways.

Parts WILL try to escape. I will attempt to warn you of them in this guide. If you
lose ANY part you are fucked.

This is NOT a complete step-by-step guide. The information here should help you
but DOES NOT DO ALL THE THINKING FOR YOU.

Enough Warnings. Onward.

Contents of High
Power Upgrade Kit
First, we have the 150% hammer
spring. This is the worst. It's
pictured on the top image next to

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the original hammer spring. The


high power on the left, the original
on the right. Notice the high power
one (mine is a "Hurricane" brand
upgrade kit) is shorter. The high
power spring mashes the gas
release valve on the magazine
faster and harder for more gas
release.

Next is the metal recoil rod and


strengthened spring. This is super
easy to install - just replace the
original. It gives a crisp, hard action
to the gun. The action's otherwise
a bit mooshy with a metal slide and
original recoil rod & spring.

Finally, we see a Hurricane high-


flow valve next to a homemade
highflow valve made out of an
original valve with two tines cut out.
As you can see the real hiflow
valve is beefier looking and is of a
slightly different construction. You
can click on the image for a closer
look. The hacked original valve is
on the top; the hiflow valve from
the kit is on the bottom.

To install the valve, you need to


unscrew the original from the mag
and replace it with the new one.
This can be a bit tricky. An
expensive tool is available to make
this easy, but you can make do
with some ingenuity if you have a
well-stocked tool bench. Think of
the tool required as a two-tined
"forked" flathead screwdriver.

Installation
The only piece that isn't easily installed is the upgraded hammer spring
(though you do need a special tool to do the magazine hiflow valve - or some
ingenuity). Without the new hammer spring, the gun seems to work well - but
to get the highest performance, you need to install the stronger hammer
spring.

Is the High Power Upgrade Worth it?

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I think it is, but only if you either have a metal slide and dislike the mushiness
of your action, or if you need the increased muzzle velocity. There is a
definate difference, at least to me. Your mileage may vary.

Note, however, that although the gun now shoots hard and fast - I can no
longer fire an entire magazine in full auto without noticing a definate
slowdown near the end. Prior to all upgrades, I could fire the whole magazine
with no extreme cooldown effect.

The cooldown is extremely noticeable if you are firing a cold magazine. If the
magazine is warm, you can still get about 1.5 mags worth of shots if firing in
semi-auto or bursts of full-auto. An entire magazine of full-auto will result in a
slowdown near the end of the magazine.

Ready? Here we go.


First of all, remove your G18C's slide assembly. In other words, field strip it.

Take Apart the Gun


You will need to REMOVE two retaining pins. The best way to do this is with a
thin and strong rod smaller than the retaining pin; a bamboo chopstick tip
(may need to cut down), a plastic rod, etc. Using a metal rod to push the pin
through will scratch up the end of the retaining rod.

Place your chosen implement against the retaining pin with the gun flat on a
hard surface. Tap away with a hammer or rubber mallet until the retaining pin
gives way.

Remove the larger of the pins just above the trigger (part #59) as well as the
pin all the back on the handle straight behind from the trigger (part #86).

Removing part #86

Disconnect the Trigger Group from the Frame


Disconnect part #64 (a little spring holding down the trigger bar going to the

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hammer assembly) from the metal trigger bar (part #92). Leave it connected
to the rest of the gun. Be gentle.

Lift Everything Out


(SPRING ALERT!)
Look at the lower picture, which
gives a good look at the hammer
assembly. The bar leading out to
the left is the trigger bar. THE
SPRING RIGHT IN THE CENTER
OF THE IMAGE (click it to enlarge)
will pop out the instant it has a
chance.

As soon as you can see it, remove


it and set it aside - it's part #82.
Remove also part #81 (the part it's
with). We won't need them again
until we re-assemble; they are
almost the last two pieces we will
be re-assembling. Again, watch
that spring when taking it out AND
when putting it back in.

Lose it and you're screwed. That


goes for ANY piece. I won't bother
mentioning this point again since
you're either aware of it by now, or
careless. Either way, repeating the
warnings won't help you more.

After lifting out the hammer


assembly, you can lift out the
trigger assembly (not pictured). It
should lift pretty much straight up
and out (at a bit of an angle) now
that it isn't anchored in by part #64
or the retaining pin.

Here are some images showing a


look inside the hammer assembly.
You can use these as a guide if
you get stuck.

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Note that picture #3 shows placement of the flat end of the hammer spring. In
other words, where it should be to have tension. There are many places
where the spring's flat end could fit, but this is the only correct spot. It is NOT
against part #267. It is on a flat ledge inside the frame of the hammer
assembly. This is a total pain to reassemble.

Taking Apart the


Hammer Assembly
Remove the retaining pin (part #76
I think - mine has a "knob" on the
end but the schematic doesn't
show that).

Take it out all the way. This parts


holds together parts #263, 264,
265, and 78. Part #78 is the one
that actually pops out to hit the gas
valve on the magazine.

You can lift out part #265 and the


hammer and the hammer spring.
Leave the rest. Part #78 will
"dangle" somewhat inside the
hammer assembly. The trigger rod
(part #92) loop is looped around
the side of the hammer.

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Here you can see inside the


hammer assembly with the
aforementioned parts removed. In
this picture part #78 is stuck up
against part #267 (left).

Replace the Hammer


Spring
Take the original hammer spring off
the hammer (part #263). Replace it
with the higher power spring. Here
is a picture of how they fit together.

Put It Back Together


(Easier Said Than Done)
(Optionally, you may take the rest of the assembly apart at your own risk. It
may make reassembly easier.)

This is the tough part.

There is no step by step. You need to re-install the hammer and new spring
into the assembly, then re-install part #265, then hold everything in place until
you get the retaining pin back in.

Things not to mess up on:

Remember where the end of the new hammer spring is supposed to rest.
Inside the ledge of the frame. It will want to go ANYWHERE else.

Ensure the slotted end of the gas release hammer (part #78) goes into the
slot in the middle of the hammer (part #263). It (part #78) will want to get
pushed down by the hammer (as you insert the hammer from the top) and get
stuck vertically inside the frame. The blunt non-slotted end needs to be
pointing out of the slot for it - located in front of the frame.

Part #265 should be inserted as well. Get it the right way around and make
sure it sticks between the frame and part #267 properly. Review the

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schematic and images.

Don't forget that part #92 (the trigger bar) loops around the end of the
hammer BEFORE the retaining pin is put in.

Don't forget to replace the first two parts we removed (#81 and small spring
#82) before sliding the hammer assembly back into the gun. The spring will
want to escape with the slightest chance.

When You've Re-assembled the Hammer


Assembly
When you're done, you can put the trigger assembly back into the gun, re-
attach the little spring (#64) to the trigger bar (#92), then push the hammer
assembly back into the gun. Take this opportunity to replace any lube you
removed from the assembly.

Then, replace the retaining pins that we took out at the beginning. Tap them
back in with a small hammer or mallet.

Test the Action


If re-assembled correctly, you should be able to:

1. Push the hammer back to cock it


2. Push down part #81
3. Push the tip of part #265 forward and hear a small "click"
4. Pull the trigger (which pushes part #266)

#4 makes the hammer fall and pushes the gas release hammer (#78) out.

And Now?
Cock the hammer (steps 1-3 above) and put the slide back on the gun. Test
firing by pulling the trigger.

Try dry-firing the gun with an empty magazine. If all goes well, try it with a live
magazine. Then try with a live magazine and BBs. Try semi- and full-auto.

Did it work?

Of course not.
Bummer. Review this info and try again. Or send it to someone who can
install/fix it for you. Your favorite retailer should also have an install/repair

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service.

G18C Schematic
Here is the schematic of all the
parts.

Installing a Glock 18C Slide


Great pictorial info here on replacing your G18C slide, in case you are also
upgrading to a metal slide. http://www.wargameclub.com/g18c-slide-
install.html

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Original Content - Copyright 2006

http://www.unconventional-airsoft.com/information/glock-18c-hammer.php 9/4/2006

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