KSC or KWA Glock 18C Hammer Spring Installation
KSC or KWA Glock 18C Hammer Spring Installation
KSC or KWA Glock 18C Hammer Spring Installation
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Review and info about the High Power Upgrade Kit for the G18C
Everything you have read or heard about the hammer spring installation on the
KSC / KWA Glock 18C is true. It's a real horror show.
If you are brave or foolish and still want to attempt it, or you have already
attempted it and are desperate for clues on how to reassemble your gun, then
maybe this page can help.
WARNINGS:
Like a puzzle, there is only ONE way to put the parts together to get a working
gun. Unlike a puzzle, the parts can fit together in many ways.
Parts WILL try to escape. I will attempt to warn you of them in this guide. If you
lose ANY part you are fucked.
This is NOT a complete step-by-step guide. The information here should help you
but DOES NOT DO ALL THE THINKING FOR YOU.
Contents of High
Power Upgrade Kit
First, we have the 150% hammer
spring. This is the worst. It's
pictured on the top image next to
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Installation
The only piece that isn't easily installed is the upgraded hammer spring
(though you do need a special tool to do the magazine hiflow valve - or some
ingenuity). Without the new hammer spring, the gun seems to work well - but
to get the highest performance, you need to install the stronger hammer
spring.
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I think it is, but only if you either have a metal slide and dislike the mushiness
of your action, or if you need the increased muzzle velocity. There is a
definate difference, at least to me. Your mileage may vary.
Note, however, that although the gun now shoots hard and fast - I can no
longer fire an entire magazine in full auto without noticing a definate
slowdown near the end. Prior to all upgrades, I could fire the whole magazine
with no extreme cooldown effect.
The cooldown is extremely noticeable if you are firing a cold magazine. If the
magazine is warm, you can still get about 1.5 mags worth of shots if firing in
semi-auto or bursts of full-auto. An entire magazine of full-auto will result in a
slowdown near the end of the magazine.
Place your chosen implement against the retaining pin with the gun flat on a
hard surface. Tap away with a hammer or rubber mallet until the retaining pin
gives way.
Remove the larger of the pins just above the trigger (part #59) as well as the
pin all the back on the handle straight behind from the trigger (part #86).
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hammer assembly) from the metal trigger bar (part #92). Leave it connected
to the rest of the gun. Be gentle.
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Note that picture #3 shows placement of the flat end of the hammer spring. In
other words, where it should be to have tension. There are many places
where the spring's flat end could fit, but this is the only correct spot. It is NOT
against part #267. It is on a flat ledge inside the frame of the hammer
assembly. This is a total pain to reassemble.
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There is no step by step. You need to re-install the hammer and new spring
into the assembly, then re-install part #265, then hold everything in place until
you get the retaining pin back in.
Remember where the end of the new hammer spring is supposed to rest.
Inside the ledge of the frame. It will want to go ANYWHERE else.
Ensure the slotted end of the gas release hammer (part #78) goes into the
slot in the middle of the hammer (part #263). It (part #78) will want to get
pushed down by the hammer (as you insert the hammer from the top) and get
stuck vertically inside the frame. The blunt non-slotted end needs to be
pointing out of the slot for it - located in front of the frame.
Part #265 should be inserted as well. Get it the right way around and make
sure it sticks between the frame and part #267 properly. Review the
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Don't forget that part #92 (the trigger bar) loops around the end of the
hammer BEFORE the retaining pin is put in.
Don't forget to replace the first two parts we removed (#81 and small spring
#82) before sliding the hammer assembly back into the gun. The spring will
want to escape with the slightest chance.
Then, replace the retaining pins that we took out at the beginning. Tap them
back in with a small hammer or mallet.
#4 makes the hammer fall and pushes the gas release hammer (#78) out.
And Now?
Cock the hammer (steps 1-3 above) and put the slide back on the gun. Test
firing by pulling the trigger.
Try dry-firing the gun with an empty magazine. If all goes well, try it with a live
magazine. Then try with a live magazine and BBs. Try semi- and full-auto.
Did it work?
Of course not.
Bummer. Review this info and try again. Or send it to someone who can
install/fix it for you. Your favorite retailer should also have an install/repair
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service.
G18C Schematic
Here is the schematic of all the
parts.
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