WINCHELSEA 2.

2
DIY Construction Manual

Copyright STANLEY SmallCraft2016

IMPORTANT
WE STRONGLY RECOMMEND YOU READ THROUGH THE INSTRUCTIONS FULLY BEFORE STARTING.
These plans entitle the purchaser to build one boat for their own or club use. Multiple or commercial builders should contact the
design owner to discuss their requirements.
stanleysmallcraft@gmail.com
 INTRODUCTION
Thank you for buying the Winchelsea 2.2 DIY plans and I hope you have fun building and using the boat. I advise you to read
through the plans at least once to give you an idea of what is required. This boat is built over a build frame of a mould, transom
and keel to produce the hull skin which is then released from the build frame and fitted out.

THE "WINCHELSEA 2.2"A SMALL, CLINKER STYLE HULL, 6 PLANKS PER SIDE, MULTI-PURPOSE ROWING/MOTOR
DINGHY THAT CAN BE USED AS A TENDER TO A YACHT OR FOR A DAY OF FUN ON THE LOCAL WATER. SHE IS 8’ -
0" IN LENGTH. 3’ - 10" WIDE AND DESIGNED TO BE LIGHT ENOUGH TO BE CARRIED BY ONE PERSON AND
TRANSPORTED ON A ROOF RACK ON ALMOST ANY CAR OR ON A SMALL TRAILER. SHE WILL ALSO TAKE SMALL
OUTBOARD - 2 OR 3 HP - FOR MOTORING UP AND DOWN THE RIVER OR CANAL OR HARBOUR. INFLATABLE
BUOYANCY BAGS CAN BE FITTED UNDER THE THWARTS.

This design was drawn up as a smaller version of the Winchelsea 8 DIY design so that the largest plank could be cut from one
sheet of plywood. The long thin keel is now replaced with a narrow keel plank which produces a strong, rigid easy to build hull.
The custom cut kit version has been available since summer 2011 and after the first one was built in a yard in Essex, interest
grew as did demand and it has now become a very popular design. This design follows our normal rules of keeping things as
simple as possible but producing as traditional a look as possible.

This is the rowing version, but our standard rig plans are available for this design. If you want to use an outboard motor, use a
6 or 9mm plywood pad to outside of transom from top to bottom and at least 10cm wider each side than the outboard bracket
to strengthen the transom. Maximum outboard size is 2hp - 3hp and as light as possible.

The construction plans assume no knowledge on the part of the user and are written to try and reflect that.

If you need any further help with the plans, the build or sourcing materials, please contact us. Details at end of manual.

Note: Being under 2.5m these boats do not need to be certified under the European Recreational Craft Directive. However,
they would be Category D, SHELTERED WATERS: Designed for use on sheltered coastal waters, small bays, small lakes,
rivers and canals when conditions up to and including wind force 4 and significant wave heights up to and including 0.3m may
be experienced, with occasional waves of 0.5m maximum height, for example from passing vessels.
GETTING STARTED
The basic sequence of the build is;
· Check you have all the necessary tools.
· Select and buy the materials.
· Clear an area to build the boat. A garage or patio for example.
· Transfer the dimensions from the plans to the plywood sheets.
· Cut out the hull panels from the plywood sheets.
· Construct the build frame
· Assemble the hull panels over the build frame.
· Epoxy all joints.
· Remove hull from build frame.
· Ensure boat is square and level.
· Seal the interior chine joints with epoxy.
· Fit seats, rub rails, inwales etc.
· Sand and paint/varnish.
· Launch and enjoy!

As already mentioned, you should read through the whole of this instruction manual to make sure you understand everything. There is nothing worse
than getting to a point with a pot of mixed epoxy in your hands and then realizing that you’re not too sure of what you are doing. So, read through
and if you have any questions firstly, read the relevant section again. If that doesn’t help then email the question and I will answer you as best I can
as soon as I can. Normally within 48 hours. However, I do have the odd holiday etc, so, if you don’t get a reply that’s probably the reason why. I do
try to warn people before I will be unavailable which is why I ask for email address while you are building. See the appendix for details.

You will be building the boat using a slightly more traditional method. It does not require any great DIY skill although it is not recommended as a first
project as it is not as forgiving of minor errors as the “stitch and tape” method can be. It requires that you accurately mark and cut out all the
component parts. Slight wobbles, so to speak, in the cut line will not cause a problem but, a bigger wobble will although, in general, most problems
can be solved. We found, during the test builds, that this design went together easily using the build jig as a guide.

The designer commented that this could be built and used by an amateur and a well built boat would result. An overall error tolerance of 6mm –
10mm is designed in. This was borne out in the test builds with the only problem being to remember small errors on one side should be matched on
the other side for symmetry. The main thing is with cutting out the planks. The edges are going to be on show and a clean cut will mean a better
looking finish. One test builder cut all the planks out by hand using a Japanese type pull saw and got very clean edges. But, get the marking out
wrong, and you may not be able to rectify the problem so, take your time with it. If for example, when you come to bend the batten round the station
points, you find that one or more of them doesn’t allow a smooth curve, re-check the measurements.
I would advise practice when it comes to epoxying if you have never done it before. It is not difficult but it is messy. Refer to the manufacturers
instructions for mixing and application. Also, follow the safety instructions. Always wear the recommended latex gloves when using epoxy and
goggles when mixing. I would also wear disposable overalls to keep it of my clothes. Once on it - come off.

There are many people who believe you should not use anything less than marine grade plywood to build a boat. However, you are going to be
building this boat for your own personal use and I doubt that it will spend its’ whole life in the water. I would imagine it would be stored out of the
water when not in use so there is no need to use marine ply. Use good exterior grade WBP ply that you can find easily at your local DIY store or
timber yard. You will be covering it with epoxy resin anyway. However, to be sure all the planks will bend on, use a quality 5ply marine plywood.

Selecting Your Wood

Select your plywood when you buy it. If you can’t select it and are having it delivered, check it before you sign for it. The edges must be free of
damage, parallel, clean and smooth. Don’t try to smooth the edges as it will cause inaccuracies in your marking out. The surfaces must be clean and
free of any grease, scuffs and gouges. Look for any signs of de-lamination. This can present itself as bumps on the surface. If it isn’t flat and smooth
then discard it. If you can’t swap it for a better one, then use it for the frames or seats so that you can avoid the damaged area. A few minor
imperfections are ok as they can be sorted out later.

If you are going for a varnished finish then you will need to be more selective and try to get sheets of the same surface colour finish. However, I don’t
recommend trying for a varnished finish at a first attempt. Many plywood sheets have a different colour finish on each side and you would need to
match as closely as possible to get the best looking finish. Also, bear in mind when marking out, which side of the panel is facing inside or outside
to match.

When selecting all other wood, look for good straight lengths with as few knots as possible. Avoid pieces with large knots, splits or kinks in them
unless you can get the piece you need from the plank without it including the imperfection. You can make some imperfections work in your favour.
For instance; if a length of wood you intend to use for the rubbing strips is warped it might be easier to fit with less bending required.
Tools Etc You Will Need.
In the main you will not require much more than most people have for normal DIY jobs. I built my very first boat with a very basic set of tools
comprising of; a metal tape, a hand saw, a 1” chisel, a couple of screwdrivers, a utility knife, a pair of pliers and a hired electric jig saw and orbital
sheet sander. Power tools can be mains powered or re-chargeable but for jobs such as cutting out the plank panels, I find a mains powered tool
better for the task. Some other tools can help if you have.

· Metal tape measure - the type that pulls out and retracts.
· Pencil - HB
· A straight edge - I use a 60cm steel ruler
· A carpenters square or similar
· Flexible Batten - I use a piece of 9mm square, 2.4m length of strip wood from my local DIY store. You could use any length of wood or plastic
as long as it bends easily in a nice smooth curve with a straight edge.
· Handsaw - A good sharp, fine cutting one that cuts both ways is best. Or a Japanese pull saw.
· Electric Jig Saw - With a fine plywood cutting blade. I use a circular saw because I find it easier to get an accurate cut.
· Electric Drill - with wood drill bits.
· Electric Sander - Or similar. I have a sheet sander for larger areas and a detail sander for the smaller parts.
· Electric or hand planer
· Clamps - Buy, beg, borrow or hire as many as you can get your hands on. I now have about 30 of different types mainly the spring clip variety.
I could always do with more.
· Chisels - I get by with just a 1” one. Kept very sharp.
· Surfom - The cheese grater type of planer with square rounded cutting surface.
· Pliers
· Small wire cutters
· Screwdrivers - Flat head and Phillips.
· Hammer - a normal claw hammer would be sufficient.
· A spirit level - a short one found in a household toolkit is fine.
· A pack of cheap paint brushes - Mine came from our local bargain shop.
Basic Materials List - This is a general guide. Not accounting for preferences, practice and errors etc.

· Plywood – 2 sheets of 6mm exterior or marine grade for the hull, 1 sheet of 9mm ply for the mould, transom and keel plank, plus the seats.
A small amount of 12mm ply or solid wood for the knees and breast hook, (The mould can be made from 12mm chipboard or MDF as a possibly
cheaper option). WE SUGGEST USING ROBBINS ELITE 5ply MARINE PLYWOOD FOR EASE OF USE etc. 12mm can be used inplace of 9mm.

· Timber 2 x 25mm x 25mm x 2.4m pine or DIY (Mould blocks to screw planks to). 5 x 12mm x 38 mm x3m pine, fir or DIY (Rubbing
strakes, inwales, optional bottom runners). - 2 x 38mm x 63mm x 2.4m straight and untwisted CLS or studding (Build frame Support Beams). The
size can be different but must straight, square and solid and 2.4m long. - 1 x 18mm x 75mm x 3m pine. (Build frame and mould braces). Again,
these are guide measurements but if you change them you must take into account the effect on any other measurements. The beams should be
as close to size given as possible.

· Nails 30 apprx. I had a pack of sturdy panel pins lying around. They are used to hold the flexible batten in place for marking out the curves
of the panels.

· Screws – approximately 25mm long and around 50 could be needed to hold the planks in position at the stem, transom and along the laps.

· Epoxy – 3ltr/kg pack resin and hardener with either measuring pumps or cups, mixing sticks, Wood flour/Colloidal silica/Milled fibres or
whatever thickening additive for the lap joint fillets, applicators and latex gloves - 10 pairs apprx. This is enough epoxy for just the boat but it does
not allow for practice or errors and mixing with additives. A 5ltr or 6ltr pack will be too much but will be handy for the next project. I use a brand
that suits us and we find easy to work with but there are others. In all cases, read their instructions on how to use epoxy. Don’t be put off by it.
It’s simple to use if you follow the manufacturers use and safety instructions. These can be download d from their websites for you to read before
you start or is normally sent to you with your order.

· Epoxy Solvent for cleaning. Distilled vinegar (the clear stuff) works just as well.

· Fibreglass tape 15 metres x 50mm 100mm width. I use this inside at the keel and garboard plank (plank 1) joint and around the
transom for added strength.

· Paint/Varnish This will include under coat but as you will be coating the whole boat, inside and out, with epoxy resin, there is no
need for a primer. If you want to you can coat the inside floor of the boat with a non-slip deck paint. This is harder wearing than
ordinary paint but an added expense if on a budget.

NOTE!! Epoxy must be medium viscosity or suitable for mixing with additive for filleting etc.
Any reference to glue in this manual refers to using a fillet mix as a glue.
BUILD INSTRUCTIONS.

Gluing
All references to glue/gluing mean using the epoxy resin/hardener with fillet (wood flour) additive to a thick mayonnaise or
smooth peanut butter type mixture for gluing and a thin ketchup mix for laminating. Fillet mix is mixed to a peanut butter
consistency. You should always prime any glued surfaces with resin/hardener mix (except when laminating) and leave for at
least 10 minutes before adding the glue mix.

Example 1 using the epoxy we supply - laminating the Transom: Mix together two pumps of resin with two pumps of hardener
for at least two minutes and add fillet mix (wood flour) to get to a ketchup mixture and spread over one of the gluing faces. Mix
up more if required. Then place the unglued piece onto the glued piece, line up and carefully clamp in position.

Example 2 - gluing planks to transom: Mix together one pump of resin with one pump of hardener for at least two minutes.
Add the fillet mix to get a peanut butter like mixture but make sure it does not get too dry. If it does, prime the glue areas before
applying the mixture to the joint between the plank and its land on the transom edge.

Note!! There is no need to bevel any joints as the fillet mix glue will take up and fill any gaps.

Try to mix only what you need but do not try to use half a pump if you only need a little to mix up. Use the two measuring cups
for this. The hardener is always half the quantity of the resin.
When gluing, do not clamp too tightly and squeeze all the glue out of the joint.

Always make sure glue has hardened before moving glued piece or removing cable ties or temporary fixings.

Tack gluing is using a small amount of glue in several positions along a plank lap joint to hold it in position so that once
hardened, the plank will stay in position allowing you to continue fitting planks and fillet the whole hull in one session later. You
are normally only able to fit one pair of planks per day to give time for the glue harden so filleting the whole lap joint is an
option.

Plank 1 has a bend and a twist to contend with so if not using a good quality 5ply marine plywood, it can be difficult to coax it
into position and hold for gluing at the Stem. Take it slowly and spend some time dry fitting before attempting to glue in position.
1. Lay out one 6mm sheet of plywood and draw the station lines 305mm apart across the sheet. Mark the dimensions of
the planks as per Drawing 1. The marks for each plank line are then drawn in using a flexible batten. A small nail or panel pin
is driven in at the exact point on the station line and kept upright. You can then bend your batten round what will be the outside
of the line. Any pins that don’t line up with the curve will show themselves at this point. If this happens, re-measure, pin and
bend the batten round again. Once happy with the curve, hold the batten with weights, pegs or more panel pins.

2. Mark out the Keel plank and Stem as per Drawings 2 & 3. The keel is measured from a centre line and the dimensions
given are half breadths - from the centre line out. The stem is a basic piece and the general outer curve shape can be little
different but not too much. The inner curve can also be different but widths should be kept the same.

NOTE!! When measuring the Transom and Mould, we suggest using a factory edge of the plywood or drawing in a straight
base line to work from. The base line needs to be longer overall than the width of the Transom/Mould. Draw in the centre line
and then measure up from the factory edge or base line marking the height of the point you are working on. Do this on the
centre line and out to each side of it. Draw a straight line through these points that is slightly longer than the width of the
dimensions and then measure out from the centre line to the half breadth given.

3. Mark out the Mould as per Drawing 4 on whatever material you are using for the mould. Again, the dimensions given in
file 5 are half breadths and measured out from the centre line.

4. Take the sheet of 9mm (or 12mm if preferred) and mark out the Transom as per Drawing 5. The dimensions given are
half breadths out from the centre line.

5. Cut out all the Planks, the Keel, Stem, Mould and the Transom. Mark each item for identification as you build. Cut the
planks a little longer than measured to allow adjustment while fitting. If you have changed the outer curve of the stem then
leave the forward portion of the plank on and mark it when dry fitting.

6. Glue the stem in position and centrally on the forward inner face of the keel. It must be straight upright and not leaning
to one side. You will note on the drawing that the bottom of the Stem has a flat section 75mm long. The Stem is glued centrally
onto the keel with the foremost part of the flat edge at the forward edge of the keel. (See picture below).
7. Assemble the build frame as per Drawing 6. It is simply two parallel beams braced at 450mm apart with smaller timber
cross pieces on the underside of the beams. Mark a centre line on the forward cross member to help when fitting the stem.
The forward brace is fixed in position as shown in the drawing, the rest evenly spaced apart.

8. The Mould is mounted in position on top of the beams and temporarily secured using timber length similar to Braces.
(Min. 20mm x 30mm x Mould Width). Use Drawing 6 for reference and position.

9. Make the Transom Supports and fix in position on the build frame. (Use Drawing 6 for reference. The inside edge of
each upright where it will be against the Transom has a piece of 20mm x 20mm timber glued to it flush with the edge. This is
to take the screws which secure the Transom and the line 205mm long in Drawing shows its position. Attach the Transom in
position with screws or hardwood dowels and ready to glue the keel to it. You will find the screw fixing position in Drawing 5
to the right of the centre line. (Finding the position to screw the Transom to the Braces is something some find a little difficult.
Please contact us if you are having problems with this).

10. Once the Transom is secured you can now fit the Keel & Stem assembly. The Stem rests against the aft edge of the
forward brace and is secure using 2 short pieces of 20mm x 20mm screwed to the forward brace and then a clamp is used to
hold the Stem centrally in place. The Keel rests in position on the Mould (keep glue clear of the mould) and on the Transom
where it is glued. You will see in one of the pictures in file 9 shows a cargo strap holding the keel in position while the glue
hardens. This is one option but weights or struts can be used. (When fitting, the Keel could be a little longer and overhang the
Transom but this is normal and can be trimmed down later). If the Keel does not rest properly in the Mould, get the closest
position.

11. While waiting for the glue to harden, draw the lap lines (shown in red on Drawing 1.) These are drawn on the inner
bottom edge of the plank and show the position where it sits with the next plank. The line is 12mm in from the edge on Planks
2 - 6 and 9mm on Plank 1. These can be drawn with the simple DIY marking gauge Shown in Drawing 1a.

12. Lay one of Plank 1 in position. The forward end should be resting on the stem, at the forward end of the keel and enough
plank to lay on the stem all round the curve. Position the rest of the plank along the line and hold in position with clamps and
waste blocks or wedges or panel pins. Clamp at the Stem and draw the curve line of the Stem with the pencil. Do the same
at the Transom but leave some waste (10 - 20mm), then remove the plank, clamp accurately to the second plank 1 and cut
the curve slightly to the waste to allow for trimming flush. Now re-fit both planks and secure in place with clamps at the Stem
and waste blocks, wedges, screws or panel pins where necessary. Once securely in place, drill a hole through the planks and
stem for the cable tie and do the same at the Transom. Carefully remove the clamp at the Stem and apply glue to the landing
area of the plank ( not too much, just where it touches the stem) and secure back in place with the cable tie. Do the same at
the Transom end. Using the fillet mix, tack glue along the plank/keel joint. This will hold the plank in position when hardened
and you can then complete the fillet line before attaching the next plank or when the planking is complete.

KEEL

Plank 1

LET
STEM

Picture and diagram above show the planks fitting to the stem and keel in the Winchesea 8. In this design the planks will fit
flush at the stem and at the lap on the keel. It also shows the Let/Gain detail.
13. Dry fit one of Plank 2, as with Plank 1 and position it on top of Plank 1 along the Lap line holding it securely at the stem
with a clamp. Mark the curve line at the Stem and the line at the Transom for cutting, then go along the plank and mark where
holes will need to be drilled to keep it in place at the Lap line with cable ties. With this plank now secured where it will be glued,
mark the “Let” or “gain” In Plank 1 to allow Plank 2 to come flush at the stem. This is basically a slot cut from Plank 1 about
12mm deep and as long as required to allow plank 2 to come in nicely and fit flush at the stem. As a guide we found a size of
around 100mm was average at each plank but you will need to find it from the boat. Remove the plank and clamp to the
second plank and cut the curve line slightly to the waste side and cut the waste at the aft end. Before fitting Plank 2 cut and
bevel the “Let” in Plank 1 then re-fit and secure as with cable ties and tack glue.

14. Once the glue has hardened, carry on planking with the rest of the planks one pair at a time. Use masking or parcel tape
for any small gaps to stop the fillet mix falling through.

NOTE!! If building in colder conditions, make sure all epoxy filleting is cured fully – if your epoxy supplier
instructions give a cure time of 24 hours for example, leave it for a further 24 hours. (This is by no means a criticism
of the epoxy but temperature makes a difference to cure times so better safe than sorry).
Also, in colder conditions, warm your resin container in hot water. It makes it easier to dispense with pumps and
ensures no waxy deposits in it.

15. Once all the planking is complete and all the filleting is completed and hardened, you now have your hull. Clean off any
excess epoxy drips (use a hot air gun to soften the epoxy and a scraper to remove it) and rub down the whole of the outside
of the hull to a nice smooth finish and (optional) give it a coat of epoxy to seal the ply. It is just a resin and hardener mix. One
coat is normally enough. The hull is now ready to prepare for paint/varnish.

16. Remove the hull from the Build Frame and turn over ready for finishing the inside and fitting out. Cut a spacer to 1180
and place it at the widest part of the hull inside the top edge of Plank 6. (It is possible that the hull may be wider. If this is the
case, place it where it fits the best). Although the hull is quite rigid at this point, treat it with care as you move it about.

17. Now remove the Transom Supports and put the hull centrally back on the supports. Chock it up to stop it rocking fore
and aft.

18. With the hull still resting on the Support Frame, again make sure it is level. Use the flat part of the keel and a spirit level
to find the level. Now you need to make sure the hull is properly aligned. It should be if the rest of the build was aligned
properly. Measure from the Stem to each corner of the Transom. The length should be the same both sides. A few millimetres
out is OK. Now fix a panel pin on the top edge of the Transom at the centre line and sight down the boat to the Stem and the
planking each side should be at the same level both sides. If it isn’t brace it into shape using struts from the roof to the plank
edge or hang weights from the top edges.

19. All the inside seams (plank joints) including the keel now need to be filleted. You will note that the top edge of the plank
where the fillet needs to go is quite narrow. You can apply the fillet with an mixing/applicator stick or make the mix a little
thinner and apply with a cheap cake icing syringe with nozzle. They can be found in the bargain shops for about £1.00p. Apply
evenly and mask up the joints for a cleaner finish. Don’t forget the inside of the lets at the forward end of the planks. They
need to be smoothed out with fillet mix. Stand the hull on its Stem and pour as thick a fillet mix as will pour either side of the
inner Stem. Keep it even both sides. Once this has hardened, sit the boat back on the build frame and pour some in the fore
foot of the stem. You may have to do a section and then re-position the boat at an angle to do another section.

20. If intending to fit Bulkheads, use the method to find their shape shown in the attachment that comes with these plans. If
not fitting Bulkheads, go to 27. If fitting hatches, the holes must be drilled before the bulkhead is fitted. The standard
thickness of ply for the Bulkheads is 9mm but you can use 6mm to save weight and add a pad to take the hatch screws, with
the same size hole and at least 25mm larger than the hole overall, to the inside face of the Bulkhead. (The side that faces the
ends and away from the inside of the boat). When fitting, be aware to look out for any twist in the bulkhead before securing.
Also, glue in a piece of 20mm x 20mm timber to the top or seat edge of the frame to support the seat. Note that these timber
pieces are fitted to what will be the inside of the buoyancy tank the Bulkhead and the Seat Top will form. 9mm Bulkheads
should be bevelled to fit the hull.

21. Fit the Bulkheads fore and aft. Bulkhead 1 (the forward bulkhead) is fitted in position and upright at around 416mm round
the sheer from the stem. Bulkhead 2 (the aft bulkhead) is fitted in position and upright at around 372mm round the sheer from
the transom or, for both, best fit around those positions. Once the correct position is found, support them in place and tack
glue in place.

22. Run a full fillet around both sides of the Bulkheads when the tack gluing has hardened. The reason for only tack gluing
is so that if it moves while the tack glue is hardening, you can soften the glue spots using a hot air gun and release the
bulkhead to re-position. It would be more difficult if you had filleted both sides.
23. Fit the Centre Thwart and its support. The centre of the thwart is marked at around 1342 mm round the Sheer from the
Stem and 1090mm from the Transom. It is positioned level at the height of about 185mm from the keel plank. It is 200mm
wide.

24. Now its time to fit the fore and aft seats tops/thwarts but you will have to find their overall size from the boat (See 25). It
is a good idea at this point to work out where to fit and fit some 20mm x 20mm seat supports at the forward end and along the
Transom. Use a spirit level to help with this. Make sure the boat is chocked up square and level first. If you have a short spirit
level, use a length of timber and sit the level on top. With one end of the timber on the top edge of the bulkhead where the
seat will be fitted, take the length of timber in to the point where the support is to be fitted and level and mark position. You
can, of course, have a slight camber to the centre to allow water to drain off.

25. Take measurements from the boat for the seat tops and cut over size then trim to fit. One way to this is to take a piece
of timber and place centrally on the bulkhead and centrally in your preferred position at the Stem or Transom having marked
it with a centre line and equally spaced reference marks, the first one being on the outer edge of the bulkhead. Measure the
distance from the centre line at a right angle and level from it to the hull. Do this at all your reference points note down these
measurements and transfer them to the wood/plywood you are using for your seat. Don’t forget to cut the notches for the upper
parts of the bulkheads.

26. Trim and dry fit the fore and aft Seat Tops. Once happy with the fit, paint the inside of the buoyancy tank and the
underside of the Seat Top with at least one coat of epoxy resin/hardener mix. Some people like to also give it a coat of paint
or varnish. This is optional but if you do, keep the paint/varnish clear of the glue line - the part that will sit on the Bulkhead and
Transom seat support.

27. If not fitting Bulkheads, now glue in the Thwarts. Ensure a good seal with the glue line at the hull. Run a fillet round the
edges top and bottom against the planking to ensure a good tight fit. Use the measurements in 23 as a position guide for the
centre thwart and 21 for the fore and aft thwarts. They are all 200mm wide and their length is found from the boat. When fitted,
use the positions as their centre. The aft thwart could be wider, 300mm for example, and fitted against the transom.

28. Fit the Rubbing Strakes and Inwales. These are the 4 x 12mm x 33mm timber lengths. They are positioned flush at the
Stem, bent round the sheer, glued and clamped till glue has hardened. This is when you need more clamps. The spring clip
type with a few “F” or “G” clamps will work well together and if possible, do both sides at the same time. Firstly the Rubbing
Strakes which go on the outside and then the Inwales which go on the inside. Please Note that when fitting them, make them
slightly proud (higher) of the plank top edge. This gap will be filled later, when both the Rubbing Strakes and Inwales (optional)
are fitted, to protect the plywood edge from water ingress later.

29. Fit the Quarter Knees to the top corners of the Transom flush with the top of the sheer, against the Inwale if fitted. Then
fit the Breasthook, again flush with the sheer, against the Inwale if fitted and also let into the Stem. Bevel the Knees and
Breasthook to fit flush against the hull side or Inwale. Cut them slightly oversize and then trim to fit. They are glued in place
and held in position with masking or parcel tape.

30. Cut down the waste at the Stem to either be flush with the sheer or a little proud and rounded. For example, keep 50mm
of the stem up from the sheer and round the top edge over. Drill a 8mm or 10mm hole in the middle and secure a rope through
it to use as a painter (mooring rope). At this point you may want to fit a skeg.

31. Now the fitting out is complete. Clean up the inside of the hull, including the seats and bulkheads, removing any odd
drops of epoxy and sanding smooth. Give it at least five coats of a good exterior UV varnish (dilute the first coat as per direction
on the tin). Sand down and clean between coats. More may be required to give a good deep showroom finish. Personally, I
leave the trim (Rubbing strips, Inwales, Knees, Breasthook etc.) till last.

32. Turn the boat over and check the outer skin of the hull. Fill any holes with fillet mix and don’t leave it proud of the surface.
If it shrinks back, it can be filled, along with any dents, digs or scratches with a resin and silica mix which is easy to sand
smooth. Check the Lap fillets and fill where necessary. Make sure the whole outside of the hull is sanded smooth.

33. Paint or varnish the outer hull. If varnishing and you have any resin left (if you bought more than 3ltr/kg), give the hull a
coat or two of resin/hardener mix before varnishing. Make sure you sand smooth between coats of epoxy. If painting, you can
give the hull a couple of coats of epoxy as above and then undercoat and gloss as normal.

34. Now you can varnish the trim. Round off edges with sand paper and varnish with as many coats as required to finish.

35. Fit any hardware including the hatches and the cleat which goes on the breasthook. Fit rowlocks for rowing and fit a rope
to the cleat for mooring the dinghy. It also gives you something to hang on to for the launch.

CONGRATULATIONS!! You Have Completed the Build.

 Drawings
Repeated on separate sheets

4 mm
1138
1114 1113
1093 1089
1075 1065 1064 1072

981 985
9 mm 951 939 12 mm
920
893 900 9 mm
911 875 877
898 897
886 879
873 865
860 857
787 794
769 761
15 mm 750
732 733 17 mm
718 718

691 700 695

679 34 mm
667
633 649
614
600 556 559 553
539 539
515 519
543
490 523 529 498
34 mm 487 44 mm
474
388 396 424 103 mm
407 381
356
375 344 377
362 362
344 301
319 287
318 121 mm
247
49 mm 254 218 222 248 247
12 mm 205
195 213
196 170 134 mm
191 154 185 186
153 154 120
105 116 mm
99
59 mm 106 107 95
70 mm
60 9 mm 16
47 53 52
31 45 33
10 19
129 mm 59 mm

Drawing 1.
Planks Dimensions
 Pencil

Use 18mmx 38mm Timber

18 mm

38 mm

120 mm

Drawing 1a
A simple lap guage.
 305 mm 265 mm

14 mm
42 50 51
5 mm 28 45 33 19

100 mm

Drawing 2
Keel or Bottom Plank (Can be 6mm or 9mm plywood)
40 mm

213
100 mm

75 mm
This edge fits to keel

3 mm 137

84

62
60 60 60 60 60

17

3 0

Drawing 3
Stem
 Clamp - Timber glued to edge of mould to take clamps
148 mm when fitting to frame.

575 mm

Sheer Height

567 mm
629 mm

481 mm
537 mm MOULD

304 mm

452 mm
178 mm
324 mm
81 mm
185 mm
30 mm
6mm 51 mm

Drawing 4
Mould
 394 mm

30 mm

207 mm 85 mm

389 mm

Screw Point

362 mm
396 mm
38 mm

284 mm
280 mm
263 mm
193 mm 178 mm
124 mm
69 mm 84 mm
27 mm
19 mm

Drawing 5
Transom Dimensions
 104 mm 189 mm
85 mm

210 mm
Screws Position
148 mm

97 mm
88 mm
1269 mm
CLAMP
112 mm Cross Members

225 mm

450 mm

Drawing 6
Build Frame
 115 mm

205 mm 20mm x 20mm

Screw block

375 mm
210 mm

Main 6mm plywood

Support Piece

Main Beam
63 mm Or size using

150 mm

Drawing 7
Transom Braces
 Drawing 8
Sail Plan Example. Sail Details are available, it uses the Winchelsea 8 rig.
MAKE YOUR OWN SIMPLE OARS.

It can be cheaper to buy a second hand pair or a set of alloy oars than make your own. It is certainly quicker. You could knock
up a pair of simple oars in half a day but then they need varnishing or maybe painting. However, I have included the plans
here for a set of simple oars that were included with the Rye Bay plans when I first got them.

There are a few free plans on the internet for oars and there are several ways of making them. The simplest is a length of
wood (a thick broom handle perhaps) with a slot cut in the bottom end to take a shaped 9mm blade which is glued and screwed
into place. I have even seen the blade simply nailed to the end of the shaft. Others are more complicated perhaps shaped for
sculls etc.

What follows is a simple way to build your own oars similar to some you may find in other designs and on the internet. If you
wanted to use these plans to design some for another design you can use this calculation to see how long your oars should
be. - Measure the distance between the rowlocks in inches and divide it by 2, then add 2 inches and multiply the result by 25
then divide by 7 and the result is the total oar length in inches. For example with my RYE BAY 8, the distance between the
rowlocks is approximately 44.5 inches so; 44.5 divided by 2 = 22.25 + 2 = 24.25 x 25 = 606.25 divided by 7 = 86.61 inches

This figure is an approximate figure for the required size and, I find, errs a little on the large size but it works well enough to
be accurate for most small dinghies and a little extra length is ok. To get nearer to the size I use for my RYE BAY 8, do the
sum above but divide by 8 to get the final figure or don’t add 2 at the beginning. Either way the result will be a few inches more
than the 72 inch length of the oars for her. You could simply have a look at what size other people use for a similar boats and
buy some.
 OAR ASSEMBLY PLANS - for 1 x 1.8m Oar.

1. Take 2 x 2400 x 20 x x44mm

2400mm x 44mm

2400mm x 44mm

2. Cut 600mm from each 2400mm piece for the blade.

1800mm 600mm

1800mm 600mm

3. Cut 400mm from each 1800mm piece for the centre section of the blade. Only 1 x 400mm piece is required for each blade.

1400mm 400mm

1400mm

4. Assemble 2 x 1400mm glued to give 1 x 40 x 44mm. Round off from handle end to 1200mm.
Assemble 2 x 600mm and 1 x 400mm edge glued as shown to form blade section.
600mm
1400mm 400mm
600mm
1200 mm

5. Shape and taper blade. Ensure second oar blade the same shape and taper.

600mm
400mm
600mm

6. Join the blade section to the shaft at the square end centrally along the shaft. Shape handle.

125 mm

7. Finish by rounding off at shaft/blade join and sand whole oar smooth. Varnish with at least 3 coats of varnish.

Alternative Oar Plans

Glossary

Amidships, Midship.
This is the location defining the mid-point of the boat. It’s normally defined as half the distance between the forward end of the waterline
to the aft end of the waterline.

Aft.
The rear part of the boat.

Beam.
This is the widest point of the boat at any location along its length. This would normally be at the sheer but some designs have a tumblehome,
where the sheer turns inboard, and so it would be part of the hull below it that would be the widest point.

Bevel
The angle on one piece of wood to make it fit an adjoining piece.

Breast Hook
A structural piece of the boat located at the upper bow or stem to hold the sides in and help to prevent twisting of the hull.

BWL, Beam WaterLine.

This is the maximum width of the boat measured across a water plane cut of the boat in the water. Depending on the context, this value
may or may not refer to the beam at the design waterline. It might be maximum loaded beam, dry weight beam etc.

Centerline (CL).
The line, for example, used as a reference point down the middle of the bottom panel, from which measurements are taken.

Chine, chine line, chine joint.

This is the division line between two plank panels where they touch.

Clamp
A longitudinal piece that runs at the top of the hull holding the frames in position and giving rigidity to the upper hull.
Cleat
A device for securing rope without knotting it.

Cockpit
The normally open area in which to sit and control the boat.

Deck
An area of the boat that keeps water out, providing a dry area under it.

Displacement
The weight of the boat in terms of how much water it displaces.

Epoxy Fillet
A neat line of epoxy mixed with a filleting blend additive and applied to a chine joint to form a structural bond. This is reinforced with
fiberglass tape inside and out.

Forward
Toward the front or bow of the boat.

Frame
A structural piece to which the planking or skin of the boat is attached.

Hull
The body of the boat.

Inwale
A strip running along the inside top edge of the planking.

Keel/Keel Strip
The backbone of the boat that runs along the centreline fore and aft at the bottom of the boat.
Knee
A piece of wood bracing two planks or panels together. Basically, a bracket. Knees at the transom and sheer plank are known as quarter
knees.

Laminate
A piece formed from several smaller pieces, usually to form an awkward shape. To make a wider board, for example, pieces are edge glued
together.

Lap Line
The inner line on a plank, to mark its’ position against the next plank.

Let
A notch cut in a plank at the forward end to allow the following plank to lay flush at the stem.

Limber Hole
A drain hole in a frame, usually next to the keel, to allow any water that finds its way into the boat to flow and not collect in one area.

Mast
A normally almost vertical spar that supports the sails.

Offsets
Dimensions given for the lines of the boat.

Outboard
Toward the outside of the boat.

Planking
The watertight skin of the boat. This is normally made up of several pieces.

Port
The left side of the boat.
Rowlocks/Oarlocks
A shaped support to hold the oars in place when rowing.

Rudder
Used for steering the boat

Runners
Used on the bottom of the boat to protect the hull. Brass or galvanised metal strips can be screwed to them to protect them.

Rubbing Strakes/Strips.
This is fitted to the outside of the top of the uppermost plank or sheer line.

Scarph, Scarf
A joint made to join two pieces of wood. It can be made in several different ways.

Scupper
A hole in the hull, flush with the decks or seats, to allow the draining of water.

Sheer
The curve of the top of the hull as seen from the side. Top edge of the planking or rubbing strakes and inwales if fitted.

Skeg
At the after part of the keel it would be a small triangular piece attached to the keel.

Station
A specified point along the keel where a frame is to be fitted.

Station Points (SP)

A measurement used to plot the shape of a hull panel or plank.
Starboard
The right side of the boat.

Stem
The foremost piece of the boat to which the planks are attached.

Stern
The back or aft part of the boat.

Stringer
A strengthening timber on a frame or running fore and aft inside the boat.

Thwart
A seat running across the boat.

Tiller
The handle used to move the rudder to steer the boat.

Transom
The plank, or panel, that forms the back, or after, part of the boat.
FINDING MATERIALS

This list is a list of a few suppliers we have used, directly or indirectly, in the past. It is not a recommendation of that company and there
are others. We can supply you with everything you need but these are other options.

Epoxy.
We supply a solvent free epoxy along with others and current prices can be found on our website or contact us for prices. There are other
suppliers that can be found by searching for epoxy. If in doubt, contact us. We can also cut your planks for you, see attached after sales
leaflet.

Timber.
www.robbins.co.uk
A good source of marine ply and good exterior plywood. Soft and hardwoods. They also supply West epoxy and just about everything you
need under one roof.

I use my local Howarth timber yard and have found them to be very helpful with my timber requirements. They are also very competitive
price wise. I know of people who use their local major DIY store but check what you’re getting. Sometimes what it says on the shelf is not
what is on the shelf. Make sure you are buying exterior grade plywood. It’s not that they are trying to con you it’s just that a small minority
of their employees don’t check what they are doing and customers put things back in the wrong place.

Fittings. (Cleats, rope, and other chandlery including life jackets).

www.mailspeedmarine.com
If they don’t have it, I’d be surprised.

Don’t forget Ebay, local auctions, boat jumbles and your local chandler. I even found a second hand chandlery shop but have lost the details.

For non UK buyers, there are many suppliers to be found. I don’t have a current list for specific countries but we can sometimes help.
 TO CONTACT US.

To contact us for help with the plans, build or sales, please use the email address below and you will get a prompt answer.

stanleysmallcraft@gmail.com

However, you can contact us between 10am & 4pm daily on 07910206881 or text anytime on the same number.

!!SAFETY!!

Please ensure you follow all safety precautions, not just when using the boat but when building it as well. You should be
sure you get the latest safety advice for use of all the tools you use and use of the finished boat.
If using the boat on inland waters, you must follow the local regulations.
If you intend using the boat at sea or in tidal waters, make sure you know what you’re doing and you have all the relevant
safety equipment.
Do not put yourself or anyone else at risk.
Boating is enjoyable but has its’ dangers like many other things.
Be responsible and be safe.
Always wear a life jacket or buoyancy aid.
Always tell someone where you’re going and when you expect to be back.
See the coastguard website http://www.mcga.gov.uk for safety advice and more.
 The
Winchelsea 2.2
A Build Picture Reference

Copyright STANLEY SmallCraft 2016

 Setting up the Build Frame

Stem and Keel joint

Clamping arrangement for stem at

build frame - example.
These plans show the cross member the
other side of the stem

Dry fitting Plank 1

The planks are then twisted out and laid flat to the
keel along the lap line

Plank 2 positioned and secured with

simple lap clamps ready to be glued.

Note the planks have been cut long at

the forward end to allow for
marking and cutting to take the curve of
the stem
 A closer look at the lap joints

Planking complete and cleaned off.

Hull released from the frame and chocked up

level on the build frame beams..

Forward end detail Aft end detail

 Forward seat/thwart fitted

Breasthook - solid timber fitted with a

solid timber stem head on left and
plywood example on right
Interior ready for joint filleting

Quarter knees fitted with

example of the Rubbing
Strakes and Inwales
fitted and filled

Finished and Painted

or Varnished
 SIMPLE SAIL RIG DETAILS - WINCHELSEA

The sail rig is added during the build after the fitting. The rig can also be added after the boat has been built and used for a while as a rowing boat
etc. Changes to the main materials will be a 12mm transom, seat tops and forward deck. The basic materials list for plywood would require about
a sheet of extra 12mm plywood. The breast hook is now replaced by a fore deck and the forward seat top is to be 200mm wide. Inflatable buoyancy
bags must be secured fore and aft and under the centre seat or at the sides.

These plans will give you the details for both fitting the rig designed for this boat or, adapting a similar rig. The mathematical calculations for sail
rigs are often disputed by different designers as to what should be included in the calculations and what shouldn’t be. Various factors can affect
the final positioning of it and we are not in total control of some those factors. When the details for our sail rigs arrived and we put them to the test,
we found the results were slightly different in all the boats we tested. This was probably due to different weights in boat construction and crew,
differences in the build from the plans and so on. These will all cause minor changes in performance but, in the main, the position given should be
ok.

Please Note; the sail rig has been designed for us and tested on three of our already built RYE BAY boats. The results were two boats with lee
helm, which was corrected by moving the mast aft a little, and one with slight weather helm which was acceptable. The two tests on WINCHELSEA
resulted in acceptable slight weather helm. I say acceptable because when you let go of the tiller, if you went over board for example, you would
want the boat to stop. Weather helm will achieve this as the boat points into the wind and the sails luff up. With lee helm the result is quite different
and far less desirable. Let go of the tiller and the boat points away from the wind and the sail snaps across when the inevitable gybe occurs. If you
have a boom it can be painful and often results in capsize.

However, perhaps I should say that we have yet to find a case where the results were very bad either way when using the designed rig. At any
rate, if you find you need to move the mast and you have completed the boat, it is only a case of removing the fore deck and seat top then replacing
it with new ones, or modified originals, after re-positioning the mast base support and hole on the deck.

The rig for your boat could made up new, fashioned from parts from other dinghies or you could adapt the rig from a similar boat (The details for
this are given later). The position given for the mast assumes you will be using the specified rig laid out here. This may be fine for a similar rig but,
in all cases, your boat will be slightly different from another or you may prefer more weather helm than another sailor. Everyone is different and the
beauty of building your own sailing dinghy is that you can experiment and get what you want.

We will start with the dagger board box.

Make up the dagger board box to the dimensions given in Sheet D6. Give it all a couple of coats of epoxy before assembly and give the inside
faces a few coats of varnish. Be sure to keep the varnish off the areas that will be glued. If you can’t get timber for the spacers to the size
mentioned, then, for each one, use a 6mm and a 12mm x 25mm wide strip of scrap ply laminated together. This seems to work well. To fit to the
hull, simply
rest the box against the aft edge of the forward seat and either to the left or right of the centre frame. Mark out, forward and aft, where your hole
for the dagger board box will be and remove the box. The whole box is to fit through the hole and rest on the 12mm x 25mm ply strip glued 30mm
up from the base on the side which won’t be against the keel.

When fixing the box in place, you should already have marked the centre line on the aft edge of the seat so you will be able to use it as a reference
to get the box upright. Push it through the hole till resting on the glued strip and level it upright against the seat. Hold it in place and mark where
the upper support braces will go on the underside of the seat. It could be easier to loosely clamp the braces in place and then, when the box is in
place, tighten them up against the box. Remove the box. Mark the position of the support braces, and then remove them to apply the glue and
clamp back in place to the underside of the seat. Now, when you come to finally fix the box in place, slide the box between the support braces and
fit in place through the hole. Glue and clamp the upper support braces to the box and then put a fillet of epoxy around the bottom of the box inside
the hull. When it’s all dry, trim off the excess outside the hull and epoxy the bare wood, filling any gaps.

Next, mark out the dagger board to the dimensions given on 12mm plywood. Cut out the curve at the top and shape the bottom corners as shown.
Fix 2 x 12mm x 12mm ply scrap strips as shown to the top part and then cut a hole for the handle. Coat the whole board with a couple of coats
epoxy and then varnish.

Now, for the rudder assembly, mark out the shapes on 12mm plywood and cut out the three main parts. Assemble the rudder and tiller and glue it
all together. Again, give it a couple of coats if epoxy and then varnish. The only thing to consider here is the type of gudgeons and pintles you will
be using to hang the rudder on the transom. Have a look at http://marinestore.co.uk I have seen a great many home made rudder fixings, if you
want to have a go, but the proper thing is relatively inexpensive. You will find these people very helpful – at least I did.

When you come to hang the rudder, make sure you don’t have a curve to the transom top of more than 25mm in height. You need 25mm clearance
for the tiller above the transom top. If you prefer a higher curve then you can either add more to the top of the rudder or cut a section out of the top
of the transom for the tiller to move in. We have not given the position of the gudgeons or pintles because all boats are different and so is the
preference of different builders. As a general guide, the top fitting should be around 150mm from the top of the transom and the bottom one about
150mm from that. Pair up the fittings on the rudder. Make sure that the fittings on the rudder and the transom are all central.

The mast itself is simple. Go to your local large DIY store and select a good, straight 2.4m banister rail. They are perfect for this size of rig and
relatively cheap. They have a flat section running the whole length which can be very handy. At the top for fitting the cheek block for raising the sail
and, at the bottom, for helping to stop the mast turning in the hole by shaping the hole in the deck or just gluing a small piece of scrap to the
underside. Don’t get the already lacquered version, it doesn’t like being outside. A Mirror dinghy wooden mast cut down to size has been used.
The builder had a bare mast and said the handy thing was the square piece on the bottom end to stop the mast turning in the hole. A Mirror gunter
gaff has also been used and cut down to size from the top end. You can make one up to size from Spruce or Douglas fir if you wish. If you do, I
suggest you buy 2 lengths that will make a 2½” to 3” diameter mast and reverse the grains for strength and to avoid warping. I made one from
cheap timber from my local Do-it-all (now Focus) DIY store. I still have it and it is currently being used on my long keeled version of Winchelsea.
You will need to cut a small channel in the base of the mast for it to sit over the keel. If the width at the keel does not allow, cut the channel deeper
and add a corresponding 12mm piece of ply to the keel top. Now trim the base as required to fit and mark where the fore and aft stops will go either
side and up against the mast. These are simply pieces of ply scrap epoxied in place to stop the mast base moving fore and aft.

Now add the deck. It is fitted to the underside if the inwales. To find the size of the deck, measure forward along the top of the inwale, from a point
level with the forward edge of the seat, about 25mm. The aft edge of the deck should stop at this point. The centre of the mast hole is 120mm
forward from the deck edge. Ensure you have it central by finding the centre of the aft edge of the deck and the centre of the stem and drawing a
line between these two points. If you want to put a decorative curve in the line of the deck across the boat, make sure it does not go back too far
to weaken the mast hole.

The gaff (the piece you hang the sail on) can be made of a single piece of wood to your choice. Builders have used various things from other boats
including a Mirror gunter gaff cut and shaped to size. A single piece of timber the right length and thickness will also be sufficient. Keep it as light
as possible.

For the rigging, because there is no standing rigging to hold the mast up, only four pieces of rope are needed and they should al be about 4 - 8mm
diameter to your preference. Check you have the right hardware for the size of rope you will be using. Lengths given are oversize. See Sheet D6
And detail S1 – S4 for rigging details.
The transom sail guide rope that goes over the transom is about 1.5m long
The Up Haul – to raise and lower the mast – is about 5m long
The Down Haul – to keep the bottom of the sail down and secured to the mast - is .5m long
The Main Sail Sheet – to control the sail – is about 3m long
So, a total of 15m should be plenty and this will leave some for ties to hold the sail to the gaff, a mooring warp and spare.
Hardware you will need is 2 small cleats, a cheek block, a normal block and a few shackles.

You will have probably have noticed that there is a great many things you can do to adapt existing rigs to yours. We are not expecting you to be
building a craft to sell at a boat show or the like. However, if you have the ability and using the best materials, you could. With all our boats, as far
as possible, we have tried to keep things simple but, we also want you to be safe so don’t use just any old rubbish to make do.
S1 1643 mm
772 mm

770 mm
428 mm
48 mm
S2 25 mm
Gaff

Mast
72 mm 106 mm
89 mm 33 mm
Block

Ho
les
Up Haul 850 mm

are
Gaff 116 mm

for
220 mm

att
ac
hin
gs
ail
2650 mm
DAGGER BOARD DAGGER BOARD CASE
Seat top (thwart) & Centre Frame

to
250 mm 298 mm

ga
ff
50 mm 100 mm
Spacers275 mm

97 mm

900 mm 355 mm

t.
ee
39 mm 94 mm

sh
il
sa
21 mm 256 mm

r
fo
e
Ho

ol
le f 730 mm DAGGER BOARD CASE FWD BRACE

H
or a 47 mm
ttac
hin
g to
clea
t on
295 mm ma
Foot st

312 mm 220 mm

MAST Apprx Position of cleats

Centre of cheek block
2440 mm

75 mm
550mm 75mm
650mm
115 mm Mast
GAFF BOOM
2300 mm
25 mm

33 mm TOP
S3 70 mm 40 mm

920 mm

Cleat for up haul

Cleat for down haul
Winchelsea 2.2 2011 Re- Design Sail Plan
Sketch 7
Basic Lines Drawing

Drawing No.
Designed by: Paul Downey
20110415/WN22-008/0001
STANLEY SmallCraft Date
15/04/2011

Zoom for details

 GENERAL ADVICE & NOTES
for
ALL OUR DIY PLANS MANUALS

CONTENTS

Exterior Grade Plywood Selection.

Epoxy Notes

Maintenance

Copyright 2014
 EXTERIOR GRADE PLYWOOD

The bulk of the boat construction is plywood, a very useful material to have available. It can be cut to shapes that are bent in place and joined together to form the
actual hull shell to which frames, seats and other items are added. It is used in several construction methods to produce a wide variety of boats in many sizes from
the smallest dinghy up to, for example, a 30 foot yacht. However, I will be dealing with our small boats here built in Clinker Plywood or Stitch &Tape. As you get
into the larger boats, more framing becomes necessary to give the strength required.

Plywood is normally available as standard 8’ x 4’ (2.44m x 1.22m) sheets of varying thicknesses. It is in three grades, interior, exterior and marine, of various
qualities within each grade. For the purposes of small boat building, exterior or marine grade is often used. 1/8” (4mm) would probably be the thinnest and 3/4”
(18mm)the thickest you are likely to use.
For our small boats 1/4" (6mm) is common. Thicker plywood; 9mm, 12mm or 18mm is used, depending on the size of the boat for frames, transom, rudder, dagger
board etc.

Plywood is available in larger sheets, 3.1m x 1.5m for example, but you will have to shop around.

As for the argument between using marine plywood or exterior grade plywood when building small boats, it is normally just a question of price for the DIY builder
as marine plywood is more expensive than exterior. You have to weigh up the benefits for you one against the other.
Your choice of wood will affect the final result. Poor quality wood left untreated, no matter how well crafted, could and probably will result in a weak boat. For
example, plywood is weakened if it has voids in it. If that void runs across the full width of a plank and isn’t filled, it is highly likely that it will fail probably during
the build or, worse, while on the water. Cheaper boards are more likely to have these voids.

Exterior WBP Plywood – is cheaper than marine by at least half normally. WBP means it is water resistant and the glue will resist water at up to boiling temperature.
Not something you are likely to need unless you spill your coffee on it. It is generally better quality now than it used to be and the glue used to stick it all together
is almost as good as or even the same marine plywood. In the case of 6mm plywood at least, it is often made up of a thicker wood pulp type core with a thin
veneer face either side. This is not as strong as having three or five laminations of an equal thickness as in marine ply.
The main problem with exterior grade plywood is strength from the quality of materials used to produce it. As already mentioned, there will be some voids in
cheaper plywood between the veneers which weakens it and these may not present themselves until you start to build. One way to help spot any voids is to check
for any holes on the edges of the sheet before you buy it. If it has a corresponding hole on the other side this will mean the void runs the full width of the sheet.
Reject it.
During the build, check the cut edges of each plank or panel. If you find any holes, use a piece of thin wire to find the depth of it and then, for deep holes,
take a small piece of waste plywood which you then need to de-laminate. Cut a piece or pieces long enough to fill the hole. Do not try to jam too much into
the hole to fill it as it may start to push the laminations apart. I usually make my filling pieces a bit shorter, coat them in resin mix, inject a thin epoxy fillet mix
into the hole to fill it and then use a thicker epoxy fillet mix to plug the hole. With shallower holes, you may only need a little epoxy fillet mix to fill the hole.
Better quality exterior plywood will sometimes have any voids filled but, if using exterior plywood, take it that it hasn’t.

Check for blisters, scratches or repairs on the face veneer and don’t buy anything that isn’t as perfect as you can get. Also, the face veneer on exterior grade
plywood may be quite thin and can, after the build, become scratched through the surface paint/varnish with normal use. Deeper scratches will allow water to
penetrate through the veneer which will eventually result in de-lamination. If you damage the veneer during the build, repair it.
A lot of designers advise the sheathing of the hull in fibreglass cloth and I would agree. However, if the budget is tight, a coat or two of resin before the paint or
varnish is applied will give good protection. If any damage occurs, it should be treated quickly with full repair or something to provide at least a temporary water
barrier.

Some well made boats, built in exterior grade plywood and well maintained have lasted for years. Equally, some marine plywood boats left for years with
peeling paint etc. have not lasted as long. Boats, like most things, need to be looked after if you want them to last.

Marine Plywood – at least proper marine plywood will have veneers of equal thickness and 5ply is better and normally found from about 5mm thickness. It
should conform to BS1088 and be stamped as such. Cheaper sheets are made up of a solid wood core with a veneer each side.

You will find that good quality 5/6mm marine plywood is normally made up of five equal thickness laminations and each lamination will be complete with no voids,
which makes it stronger. It is also actually easier to work with and will often give a better finish for varnishing or painting. It allows tighter bends and twists which
cheaper sheets won’t be able to fit to. It is likely to last longer than exterior grade and a well built marine plywood boat should have a greater value if you come to
sell your work. But, be careful when selecting it as there are some inferior boards out there being sold as quality marine plywood. Look for the BS1088 mark; check
the laminations and quality of the face veneer. Buy from a trusted supplier.

The main consideration for the home boat builder is usually cost and good quality exterior grade plywood fits the budget build perfectly. However, I would always
recommend the use of marine plywood but its price can be prohibitive when working on a tight budget so, if you are gong to use exterior, choose a good quality
exterior plywood.

Whichever you choose, exterior or marine, the weakest point of plywood is the edges which if left untreated it will soak up water leading to rot or delamination.
You should therefore seal any exposed edges with epoxy, paint or varnish. In every case, never be tempted to use interior grade plywood.

EPOXY
There are many types of epoxy products but the one we are concerned with here is Marine Epoxy - an epoxy resin formulated to be used in marine conditions
and suitable for building with wood. (Medium viscosity, not the thin lay-up resins or those used for casting. There are several good manufacturers of epoxy resins
that are for the marine environment but then you should ensure you choose from those that are specifically for boat building in wood. There are several brand
names that are available all over the world and, in the main for the purposes of this note, there is little to choose between them. It normally comes down to personal
preference and price. The biggest drawback to epoxy for the DIY builder is normally the cost.

Epoxy is a great material and is now widely used in wooden boat building – not just amateur home boat building. It is basically a two part plastic in liquid
form and the two parts on their own stay liquid until mixed when there is a reaction between them and he mixture becomes a solid. It can be used for
most boat building applications with the use of various thickening additives, fibreglass tape or cloth that are supplied by the manufacturer. It is now true
that you can build a boat without using any mechanical fixings at all – just the epoxy.

The different additives can be used with almost any brand of epoxy but you cannot mix different brands of resin or hardener. It is still quite expensive despite
its popularity. It also requires that the mixing is accurate with regard to quantity of resin and hardener. It must be properly mixed and some manufacturers
give a mixing time to help try and ensure this.
Epoxy is also affected by temperature. Normally you shouldn’t use it in temperatures of leass than 5 degrees. When using in warmer temperatures it will cure
quicker and reduce the pot life - the time you can keep mixed resin in the pot before it starts to cure.

It can also get a bit messy when working with epoxy so you need protective clothing or at least clothing you don’t mind getting permanently damaged. You must
wear a mask (especially when sanding epoxy), goggles and protect your hands with disposable latex gloves.
Polyester resins can and are still used by some but they are not as strong or versatile as epoxy. I have used polyester successfully with boats I have built in the
past but not with a pure Stitch & Tape built boat. Polyester has to be carefully and properly applied or it will fail and it doesn’t hold as well as epoxy in the long term,
so it is probably not the best choice for the first-time builder. If you have some knowledge and experience with polyester then you may feel confident enough to use
it. I personally don’t recommend it and favour epoxy.

Working temperatures for epoxies are fairly general across all brands and details will be given with your particular brand. Room temperature is the normal
working temperature. Basically, they don’t like it too cold or too hot. In colder temperatures, try to get some heat into your working area especially in freezing
conditions. Some epoxies won’t perform very well at lower temperatures. Some brands allow the use of hardeners that decrease the curing time and work
well in the cold. Alternatively, hardeners that increase the curing time help on very hot summer days. Again, check the manufacturer’s instructions. One
tip; on cold days keep your resin warm.

Hardener seems to stay fluid in lower temperatures but resin will thicken and become more difficult to dispense. This can damage your pumps if you
try to force cold resin through hem. Warm it up, by standing it in hot water and it will flow better. However, letting it get too warm will prematurely start
the curing process giving you less working time before it starts to solidify.
The epoxy resin when mixed with the hardener generates heat as the two parts react with each other. The hotter it gets, the faster it cures. Bear in mind
particularly that, in the confines of your mixing pot, it will get hotter quicker and accelerate the curing process. So, don’t mix more than you can feasibly use
in the working time – the time between mixing and the curing process starting.

Estimating this time can be difficult but experience will eventually show you. Best advice – mix small quantities at a time and always be ready for
applying the epoxy, making sure the area you are going to be working on is fully prepared before starting to measure out your resin.
Generally, when working with plywood, the area you are working on will need to be primed with resin mixed with hardener first and then left for 10 minutes or so
before the fillet or the fibreglass tape is applied. Do not add further epoxy to a joint once the curing process is underway until it is fully cured unless your brand allows
it.
If you return to your work expecting the epoxy to have cured and you find a waxy film on the surface, this is called “amine blush”. Some brands are less prone
to it than others but if you find it, it MUST be removed. Paint will not dry if blush is over painted. Simply wash the area with warm soapy water using a sponge
scourer to help remove it. Ensure you remove all of it. It can cause problems with paint or varnish not drying – ever – resulting in the need to remove everything
from the affected area which is a very messy job.

Note: You cannot get rid of amine blush by just adding more epoxy either.
When using epoxy for various parts of the build, preparation is the key. Have everything you will need ready and to hand; pots, mixing sticks, tape, filler additive
etc.

Make sure you are wearing your gloves, mask and goggles. Prepare the area to be epoxied. It must be clean, free of any grease and dry. Make sure you don’t
mix up more epoxy than you can use before the curing process starts. You will get to know how much as you go through the build.

The manufacturer’s instructions will often give you the curing times. But these are temperature affected.
Always read and follow the safety advice at all times when using epoxy. Wear latex/vinyl gloves (or similar – even the yellow ones you wife has under the kitchen
sink), goggles to keep splashes out of the eyes, a mask when sanding and clothes and shoes you don’t mind ruining.

Some people, though only a small percentage, may develop an allergic reaction to epoxy so protect yourself.
You need to be accurate with the amount of resin and hardener you use and mixing them together properly is important. If not mixed properly it will not
harden properly which will cause weakened joints etc. Your manufacturer will tell you how much hardener to add to the resin. It is done in quantities or
weights, though quantity is more normal nowadays and we normally provide pumps to dispense the epoxy we sell.

Some manufacturers will supply you with measuring cups to measure out the required quantity of resin and hardener. Others will supply you with calibrated
pumps to dispense them. Some require, for example, two pumps of resin to one of hardener. I always use the pumps out of preference as I don’t see how you
can be as accurate with measuring cups as a certain amount of the resin will stick to the inside of the cup and pumps are less messy.

If your instructions tell you to mix for a minute or 2 minutes or whatever, do just that. I would always suggest mixing for at least 2 minutes.

Make sure all the resin and hardener are mixed together taking care as you stir to include any that is stuck to the side of your mixing vessel. Avoid stirring too
vigorously as it may splash and could get on your clothes or, worse, in your eyes. Safety information is usually supplied with the resin.

Additives are used to thicken the epoxy for various applications. The type of additive and the amount used will, of course, depend on the job in hand. The
additives used for the simple design in this manual are all fillet mix which is a thick mixture. There are various additives on the market and your epoxy supplier
will be keen to sell you their own brand but, any brand will normally do. I only use two brands of resin simply as a personal
choice. With one the resin and additive mixes up to a dark brown colour and matches most plywood quite nicely. With the other the resin and additive has a
creamy coloured finish but this can be remedied easily either by using the first company’s additive or colouring the mix. You will have to practice, but art acrylics
will colour your mix and these have the advantage of allowing you to get a better match. A little goes a long way so you don’t need to add much. These acrylics
are not too expensive and you should practice with small batches first till you get it right.

I am told that you can use sawdust as an additive for gap filling. However, I would imagine it would have to be powder. One cheap source of supply is the stuff
they used to sell in pet shops in as near to powder form as possible. I know of a builder who unravelled a length of fibreglass tape, cut it up into very, very
small pieces, added it to a quantity of fine powder sawdust from the collection bag of his belt sander which had been used to sand floors and built his dinghy
from it. All the main joints were taped and the whole thing stayed together for at least the 4 years he used it where I was moored before he moved on.
I once heard of bread flour being used as a filler additive. My old rub rails needed changing and the gap would need filling but I only had resin with no additives
and it would take 3 days to get some by mail order as I had no transport to get to the nearest supplier. I remembered what I’d heard and the local shop had some
bread flour so I tried it and it worked.

The question of which additive and how much is required – or how thick the mix should be – is largely dictated by the job you are doing. I will explain the more
common additives used in small boat building and follow that with the different mixes. In any case, you should refer to the instructions with your particular brand of
epoxy to see what they recommend. As a general rule the following is a good guide:-

Additives

Micro-balloons –
There are two types, glass or phenolic, and they come as a white powder. They are used as a gap filler which sands easily. As they are light in weight they are
often used with wood flour for fillets where weight is of concern.
Cab-o-sil (Colloidal Silica) -
Used for structural gluing/bonding, filling and filleting where high strength is required.
Milled Fibres -
These are short strands of fibreglass for use when the epoxy needs to act as a gap filler and provide extremely high strength and resistance to
cracking.
Wood Flour -
A cheaper additive used for filleting, bonding and filling. I use this in all the small boats I build.

Also available is chopped cotton fibres that work the same as wood flour.

Mixes

Resin/Hardener mix only -

Used for priming areas for filleting, coating wood/plywood to seal it and to saturate (wet out) fibreglass tape or cloth.
Resin/Hardener mix with Wood Flour added to a consistency of thin tomato soup that will flow easily -
With tape on one side to stop it flowing out, it is used to fill small narrow gaps. This mix is used in clinker ply boats for filling the gaps in the laps.
Resin/Hardener mix with Cab-o-sil to consistency of mayonnaise -
Used primarily as a glue. Use it to glue seat support stringers to frames and when butting two pieces of wood/plywood for scarfing together.
Resin/Hardener mix, Milled Fibres or Wood Flour to consistency of a thick smooth peanut butter -
Used for filleting. This is used where strength is required and is often reinforced by applying fibreglass tape over it.

Some suppliers will have their own blend of some of the above that they will recommend as a general fillet mix.

Fibreglass tape is a major part of the construction in Stitch & Tape. It is simply fibreglass strand woven into a cloth tape of various widths. The edge of the tape
is selvaged to stop it from unravelling and this will need to be sanded down after the joint is fully cured.
If you intend sheathing your boat, this is done with a fibreglass cloth, which comes in various types and is measured in ounces or grams. You can cut your tape
requirement at the correct width from cloth to avoid the selvaged edge but, as these lengths will probably not be long enough to do the whole chine joint as with
tape, you should overlap each length by a few centimetres for strength.
Biaxial cloth or tape provides more strength for the joint but is more expensive.

Sheathing is not really necessary for the boat in this manual. When you consider that some early Stitch & Tape boats were built using polyester resins and
well built examples have stood the test of time, maybe the extra strength and cost of biaxial tape is not necessary with epoxy.
IMPORTANT: Some people think they can save money and get a good shiny finish using just epoxy. This is true – partly. But, remember, epoxy is not
UV resistant and will need the protection of a coating of UV varnish or paint.

MAINTENANCE
Looking after your boat is important if you want it to stand the test of time or it could end up like the boat above. When in use your pride and joy will get knocked
about a bit and will need a bit of care to keep it in good condition. Even the so called “plastic” boats need maintaining to keep them looking good and to prolong
their useful life. It is a myth that they are maintenance free and they will deteriorate if not looked after though it may take longer.

If your boat is to be kept under cover when not in use so much the better and maintenance is often easier. If it is to be kept at a mooring or in a dinghy park
etc. where it is constantly exposed to the elements, more care for your boat is needed.
At a mooring, your little boat is not only exposed to the elements but also to constant rubbing against the dock, other boats moving about and people perhaps
using her as a bridge to their own boat. A good paint/varnish job is required for such craft. Any damage should be repaired instantly and any scratches that
have penetrated the paintwork to the wood below should be treated as quickly as possible to avoid water damage. If possible, get a cover for your boat that
will be raised slightly in the middle so water cannot collect. A simple “A” frame over the centre thwart will do the job.

When left on a mooring, keep an eye on the condition of your mooring ropes. They are often neglected and when you come to use her, she’s gone,
not stolen but broken loose and drifted away. Another reason for putting a name and home on her perhaps.

In a dinghy park or perhaps pulled up on the beach the boat should be stored upside down. Again a good paint/varnish job is required and any
damage should be repaired instantly and any scratches that have penetrated the paintwork to the wood below should be treated as quickly as
possible to avoid water damage. If the boat cannot be stored upside down then a cover should be provided.

If you will be keeping your boat under cover there are still some things you should do before you put her away. Wash her down, inside and out, clean out
all dirt etc. that collects in corners and wipe dry. If you have built in buoyancy in plywood or wooden boats they should have their drain plugs/hatches
removed and any water drained out. Keep the drain plugs/hatches open to allow ventilation which will dry the remaining dampness over time. Remember
to replace them when the boat is used again.

I always recommend storage upside down simply to keep the dirt and dust out. Every year, usually in the spring, check to see if a new coat of paint is
required. It is good practice to give the varnish another coat or two as it will probably be scratched with use. In either case, lightly rub down before hand.
Check her over for damage and repair as necessary.
 CUSTOM KIT CUTTING SERVICE

Now you have bought your plans from us, you may want an easier way to
cut your planks etc.
We can do it for you at a low price in Robbins Elite 5ply Gaboon marine ply-
wood less 10% and the plans price discount with this leaflet.
A Winchelsea 2.2 Marine Plywood Only custom cut kit includes bottom
panel, planks, transoms, thwarts, breasthook and quarter knees.
Normal price £385.00
Your price with discount of 10% = £38.50 plus plans price £18.00 = £56.50
Thank you for buying Only £328.50
your plans from us Full Plywood/Epoxy Kit
All the plywood parts plus the Epoxy Pack contains- 6kg(ltr) Resin/Hardener
pack with measuring pumps, fillet mix additives, glass tape, 10 x latex gloves
and 25 x mixing sticks to stick it all together, some tools and a timber pack
We want your boat building
which includes the mould and trim etc.
experience with us to go as smoothly as possible. Also included with this kit is 12 simple Lap Clamps
We offer email/text help 24/7 as we know our builders
build in their spare time and not our working hours. All that for the total discounted price of
Anything you want to know about the plans or the build please ask. £735.00 plus delivery.
We also offer what we think is a great after sales service Standard Kit Delivery charge is included
to get you building as soon as possible and finish your boat. (UK mainland Only. Islands & Highlands, elsewhere is extra).
See our website for more information on plywood only kits
However, if there is anything you are unhappy with, please contact
us and we will endeavour to put it right.
We can cut kits for any of our designs.
stanleysmallcraft@gmail.com Contact us for more details.
Text anytime or phone 10am - 4pm daily
07910206881

We can supply you with

everything you need at reasonable prices.

To buy from this offer leaflet or for more details, please contact us.
 ACCESSORIES
BOAT BUILDING WORKSHOPS

Oars
Wooden 1.65m (5.5ft.) - From £40.00 - £70.00

Rowlocks
Nylon (with mounting plates) - £15.00
Galvanised (with mounting plates) - £25.00

Painter
3 metre mooring rope and nylon cleat - £20.00

Electric Outboard
If you still have doubts about building your boat, why not come and build 28lb thrust, forward & reverse speed
it with us in one of our workshops. options, throttle control, transom bracket - £165.00

We hold regular and flexible workshops in Stevenage and Northampton. Heavy Duty Leisure Battery & Charger - £138.00
These workshops are held from three to seven days depending on which
boat/canoe you are building. Aluminium Trailer - £POA

See our website or contact us for more details.

www.stanleysmallcraft.net

Email - stanleysmallcraft@gmail.com

Phone/text - 07910206881

Copyright STANLEY SmallCraft 2016

 Disclaimer
Every effort has been made to ensure that the information, design and plans in this manual along with the kit parts are as accurate as
possible. These plans and kit parts have been used to build this boat without any need for amendment or change. As you are the builder,
the implementation of the methods of building and actual building of the boat as described in this manual are beyond my control.
Therefore I cannot be held liable for any incidental or consequential damage resulting from the use of the information, building methods,
plans or the boat as described in this manual.

Copyright STANLEY SmallCraft 2016.

Copyright of these plans (including all text and images appearing in this work) is owned by STANLEY SmallCraft, and all rights in relation to all such material are reserved. No
material appearing in this work may be modified, reproduced or transmitted in any form or medium (whether known now or not) or by any means without written permission
from STANLEY SmallCraft, except for use by end users accessing this work for purely personal, non-commercial purposes and the reproduction on screen or printed off by
such persons for the purposes intended by these plans. Written permission must also be obtained from STANLEY SmallCraft before any of this work is stored, copied for
anything but the personal use (however temporarily) in a retrieval system of any kind other than as previously stated.
THE PLANS ARE NOT FOR RESALE AND ARE NOT TO BE RESOLD OR GIVEN AWAY