Silo - Tips Manual Revision August 2015 P N
Silo - Tips Manual Revision August 2015 P N
Silo - Tips Manual Revision August 2015 P N
p/n 65-06-01361
1
Mendota Proflame Training
Table of Contents
PROFLAME I
2
Mendota Proflame Training
Table of Contents
PROFLAME II
3
05-02-00356 NG regulator
05-02-00346 LP/Propane Regulator
Refer to page 27
for correct p/n
for each model
Remote PF1
05-02-00361
#1
For complete
valve
assembly see
#2 parts manual
#3
Bulb 10-11-00020
Door Removal 05-02-00351 Fans Lens 10-11-00019
Tool Lens Retainer Bracket HA-77-00413
15-02-00064 Round light gasket 65-02-00137
HA-77-00256 15-02-00065 Dimmer 10-01-00089
#1 FCM, powered up by 120 VAC, sends out 6.5 to 7 VDC on 3 com wire to receiver.
#2 Receiver is brain box / switching box and sends 6 VDC to Digital Valve control box
#3 Digital Valve box controls ignition and flame rectification along with VDC to pilot & burner coils on valve
4
Flame Rod plugs in here
Pins 9 8 7 6 5 4 3 2 1
Spark Rod plugs in here
Valve resistance, 362 Ohm + or – 10% @ 68 degrees
Pin 1 RED, (DXV Non LX units only, battery back up wire) (manual flame regulation)
Pin 2 RED, (DC supply voltage 6VDC, (LX Units from receiver & Non LX from transformer)
Pin 3 BLACK, (DC Ground)
Pin 4 GREEN, (TH, label only)
Pin 5 BLUE, (IPI, CPI wire)
Pin 6 WHITE, (THTP, label only)
Pin 7 ORANGE (wire to open pilot coil, 6VDC to open, ¼ to 1 volt to hold open)
Pin 8 Green (wire to open burner coil, 6VDC to open, ¼ to 1 volt to hold open)
Pin 9 Green/Yellow (Ground wire to valve)
Pin 2 to Pin 3, At least 6 VDC (anything less than 6 VDC may be bad/faulty FCM or low/week batteries)
Using a Jumper from Pin 4 to Pin 6 should attempt to spark & light pilot & then burner
5
1. Light does not work
a. Is light turned on via remote ?(finger pointing at button PF1 only)
b. Is dimmer in the OFF position? Turn dimmer on, Pro Flame I only
i. Make sure dimmer is turned up, not at lowest setting
c. Check to see if bulb was installed or not burned out G9 25 watt bulb
d. Check for loose or miss plugged spade at connections
e. Check voltages at light dimmer switch 120 VAC
f. Is the dimmer bad? (disconnect and ohm dimmer with volt meter)
g. Check voltages at FCM 120 VAC, & verify plugged into correct outlet (AUX OUT)
h. Check voltage at AUX plug in on FCM
i. Possible bad dimmer
ii. Possible bad bulb
ii. Possible bad Fan Control Module (FCM)
Fuses in the FCM
Fuse F1=6A 250 volt 6.3x32mm (Fast)
Fuse F3=5A 250 volt 5x20mm (Fast)
2. Pilot keeps sparking all the time, with pilot lit or with pilot not lit
a. Is the gas turned on to the unit?
b. Blocked pilot orifice or pilot tube? Insect? Inswool/rock wool? Air/gas port on pilot blocked?
c. Is the flame from the pilot wrapping around the rectification rod?
d. Is Flame rectification rod dirty (use 3m pad to clean / sand rectification rod and pilot hood)
e. Check for broken ceramics that might short out flame rod (Can you wiggle flame rod?)
f. Check for loose connection on Flame rectification rod at digital fireplace burner control module
g. Check orange wire on valve for DC power. Does pilot coil open by using the battery test?
h. Make sure pilot assembly is grounded or that valve is grounded (green/yellow wire)
6
3. Standing Pilot Switch doesn’t work
a. Unit in lockout mode? See page 11
b. Check the standing pilot switch and verify it’s plugged in correct.
i. Unhook switch, jumper past switch with a jumper wire
ii. Jumper Pin 5 & 6 on Digital Fireplace box, Blue & White wire
c. What is DC voltage on pin 2 & 3 of Digital Valve Control box (see page 5)
d. 3Com wire connector, take DC voltage measurement on outside 2 wires (grey & red wire)
i. Possible bad IPI / CPI Switch.
ii. Possible bad Fan Control Module.
iii. Possible bad wiring harness (see current parts manual for p/n)
4. Fireplace or Insert will not light burners. Has light and blower control only.
a. Is the unit in lockout mode? See page 11 to clear lockout mode
b. Is remote in a thermostatic mode (ON or SMART)?
i. if in thermostatic mode, is set temperature set lower than room temp?
c. Is the receiver in the OFF position?
d. Is the 14 pin plug in the back of the receiver plugged in tight? (Pro Flame I only)
e. What is DC voltage on pin 2 & 3 of Digital Valve Control box (see page 5)
f. What is the DC voltage going to Green Coil & Orange coil on valve?
g. Is the Orange pilot wire hooked to the valve? What is DC voltage of orange wire?
h. Do the coils click by doing a battery test on coil tabs?
i. Is there a blockage from an insect or inswool (was pilot off over the summer?)
j. When you lose AC voltage, you’ll lose fireplace, UNLESS batteries are installed.
k. Has DFC connector been removed from unit (pertains to older PF 1 model units only)
Remember, batteries are only used when AC power to fireplace is not present
7
5. Rear Burner Won’t work (won’t turn on or won’t turn off)
a. Is burner on via remote?
b. Was pilot was shut off over the summer? Possible insect blocking gas to burner.
c. Check to verify 14 pin connector is plugged into back of receiver correctly
d. Check to make sure rear solenoid is plugged in (pink & blue wire)
e. Check voltage on connectors (DC voltage 6 VDC pink & blue wires)
f. Possible bad Rear Solenoid Valve
g. Possible bad receiver. Ensure step c was checked before replacing receiver.
h. Does the pilot still spark? If so see page 6 (step 2)
*blowers are reversed in FV41 & FV41Arched & FV44 & FV33 & ML47 & ML39
*DXV units DXV DT3 units only use a snap disk p/n 05-01-00157 & Rheostat p/n 10-01-0000
Note, in OFF THERMOSTAT mode, do blowers work?
Note, blowers won’t turn on until unit has been on 5 minutes in Smart or On thermostat mode.
Blowers will shut off 12 minutes after unit has reached set temp in Smart or On thermostat mode.
In Off Thermostat mode you should have blower control right away & blowers will shut off with remote
8
7. NO flame/BTU adjustment (flame height)
a. Check gas pressure. IN & OUT taps with regulator on high front burner on. Verify pressures are changing
from high to low with manometer.
b. Make sure Regulator/stepper motor is connected (motorized)
c. Verify an insect isn’t restricting gas to burners (pull burners and inspect)
d. Check to make sure you have correct orifices in front and rear burner
**LP/Propane units may not see the flame height change compared to NG
NG & LP/Propane units will change water columns when regulating BTU output.
e. Possible bad receiver (rare) but if not regulator, could be receiver.
Thought, if you have receiver, swap out first since it’s easier to change!
If the unit still does not work, swap back receiver and change reg/stepper motor
**1st Verify using manometer. If water columns don’t change
**2nd Replace regulator (again rare but could be receiver)
9
9. Fireplace or Insert does not spark, & fireplace/insert has no blowers or light
a. Make sure remote is not in thermostat mode (Smart or On)
b. Make sure FCM switch is ON ( - = ON, O = OFF)
c. Check FCM for AC power and check 120v Outlet for AC power (3rd outlet)
d. Check fuse panel for tripped breaker that powers insert/fireplace
e. Run extension cord to unit to see if you can plug in FCM
You should have CPI pilot along with light and blower control in lockout mode, provided remote is in OFF thermostat mode
Refer to page 40 if you do not know how to operate remote
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Mendota Proflame Training
How to reset “lockout” mode Proflame I
You may be able to clear lockout mode by turning remote on & then OFF
*if not, follow the steps below to clear lockout mode.
1. Power off hand held remote (house icon and temp showing if off).
3. Toggle Standing pilot light switch to OFF, see page 12 for switch
locations
*doing this will verify the unit is not calling for ignition or heat*
You may now proceed to toggle standing pilot switch to up position to light the pilot flame. If
the pilot does not attempt to light after this, you’ll want to check voltages and connections at
*NOTE,
Digital in lockout
valve mode
control box.you will still have blower and light control in OFF thermostat mode
Proflame error codes they are as follows (diagnostic light not provided)
1 Red flash = Low Battery (used to power unit during AC voltage loss)
2 Red flashes = Parasitic flame failure, internal test to board failure.
3 Red flashes = Lockout mode
11
*Note, location of the switch in PF1 & PF2 units
are the same. The function of the switch in PF2
though is a Master stop switch. In PF2 CPI is
control by the remote, please see page 22
FV41 & FV46 switch locations
PF1 units CPI/IPI switch
PF2 units Master Stop Switch
SYNC SWITCH
SWITCH SHOWING ON
12
Proflame 2
Proflame
Wiring 2
For complete
Wiring Diagram valve assembly
Diagram
see parts manual
Bulb 10-11-00020
Lens 10-11-00019
Battery backup Pack 05-02-00345 Lens Retainer Bracket HA-77-00413
Round light gasket 65-02-00137
Battery Backup wire harness 10-03-00128
13
Additional black ground wire to
chassis of unit is tied into ground X10 & X11 Power to fan and light
(ties into green ground wire)Bussmann S506
Wire harness p/n 10-03-00130
X1 AC power to board Mendota 10-08-00151
Wire harness p/n 10-03-00129 Grainger p/n = 2ABY8
Radio Shack p/n = 55048557
14
Proflame 2 Wiring Schematic
Spark
X2
Rectification
X3
Master Stop
Switch
X4
05-02-00381
X5
X6
X7
X8 X10
X11
Error Code
LED Flashing
15
Proflame 2 Control Board
1. Light
2. Spark
3. Master
4. Rear
5. Fan
6. Pilot
7. Burner
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How to sync remote to fireplace or insert PF2
• Once sync button is pressed you have 7 seconds to sync remote to unit
• Master switch position does not matter when trying to sync remote
• you must have master switch in ON position to operate the burners
• if the control module was replaced, you have to re-sync remote to unit
down
Sync button
Mode
Button
17
Mendota Proflame Training
1. Fireplace or insert does not work
a. Check for all 3 (Thermostat mode via remote? Master Stop switch? Lockout mode?)
b. Does the remote communicate with fireplace?
You should have light and blower in OFF thermostat mode, even when in the
lockout mode. If not, you will need to re sync remote to fireplace. See page 17
c. Verify the Master Switch is in the ON position. See page 12
i. Make a jumper to bypass switch connector X4 see page 14
ii. This will bypass switch and wiring.
Master switch will kill IPI pilot it does not kill CPI pilot
d. Verify that connector X5 is plugged into control bd. See page 14
e. Check for AC power on connector X1, also check for any error code flashing
f. Check external fuse on control board, please shut off AC power before pulling fuse to
check, 3.15 amp fuse also see page 14 next to X1 connector for fuse part number
h. Does board have error code flashing? See codes below.
1 Red flash = Low Battery (used to power unit during AC voltage loss)
2 Red flash = Parasitic flame failure, internal test to board failure. See ** below
3 Red flashes = Lockout more (see page 22 to clear lockout mode / error code)
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Mendota Proflame Training
Burner Problems
2. Pilot lights & continues to spark OR pilot keeps sparking all the time and doesn’t lit.
**If the sync button on fireplace/insert is pressed and remote is not powered
on within 7 seconds to sync communications, then pilot will attempt to light.
19
Mendota Proflame Training
Always check screws on “green connectors” and make sure are tight on PF2 control bd
*blowers are reversed in FV41 & FV41Arched & FV44 & FV33 & ML47 & ML39*
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Mendota Proflame Training
Light does not work
Always check screws on “green connectors” and make sure are tight on PF2 control bd
** Do not touch bulb with bare hands, the oil from your hands will be heated up via the
heat from the fireplace and shorten the life of the light bulb
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Mendota Proflame Training
How to reset “Lockout” on Proflame II & clear error code
You may be able to clear lockout mode by turning remote on & then OFF
*if not, follow the steps below to clear lockout mode.
2. If you have a snowflake present on the display, press the MODE button on remote transmitter and
then toggle to IPI mode. page 23
5. Wait 30 seconds after you perform the steps 1 – 5 above to reset “LOCKOUT” mode.
6. Turn on AC power & Power on remote, and then power remote back off.
7. Toggle Master switch back up (on position) and turn unit on via remote or toggle switch back to
CPI using remote to light the pilot flame. If the pilot does not attempt to light after this, you’ll want
check connection on X5 and connector X4
22
How to put PF 2 Remote into CPI or IPI
23
New Proflame 2 Remote adjustments
Mendota
Picture on left is
showing light in
step 5, step 6 will
show HI on remote
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Mendota Proflame Training
Following pages are miscellaneous information for Mendota
25
FV Insert Proflame 2
Battery Backup and Switch Location
26
Proflame 1 wall box FV41 & FV46
27
NAT should be
stamped into metal
for Natural Gas
Or
LP with a RED dot
and hole should be
stamped into metal
for LP/Propane Gas
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Mendota ZC Fireplace and Insert Models DXV35DT3&4 LX, DXV45DT3&4 LX, ML47, FV41, FV46, FV33i,
FV44i units produced after August 1, 2011 utilize a quick-conversion design that incorporates a push-
pull tab to convert between NG and LPG configurations. Some existing stock of Fireplaces and Inserts
may contain the original Round Hood SIT pilot assembly.
NOTE: The new Quick-Conversion design pilot assemblies are backwards compatible and can replace
the Round Hood Design Pilots. It is important to make certain that you select the proper Pilot Flame
Hood design when replacing the pilot assembly. Two designs exist: 2-way Hood and 3-way Hood.
Make certain you use the proper Hood Configuration for your specific model along with converting to
proper gas type.
M = Modern
with 05-04-00050
Please note
pilot assembly
FV46 uses a 2
way pilot hood
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All Mendota units had pilot shields
installed as of July 2013
Please note, if the FV41 or FV44i has the round pilot hood p/n 05-04-00050
assembly you will have to change to a 05-04-00065 to install a new pilot shield
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Mendota Proflame Training
p/n HA-87-00251
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Mendota Proflame Training
Pilot Shield
DXV 35 DT3 & FV33i
p/n HA-81-00322
All Mendota units had pilot shields
installed as of July 2013
32
Mendota Proflame Training
All Mendota units had pilot shields
installed as of July 2013
33
Round replacement gasket for accent light
p/n 65-02-00137
#10-11-00019
34
35
90 deg mark is referenced as flat, closing the
air opening down as far as possible
36
SECONDARY AIR INTAKE DAMPER
37
*Please see next page for chart
FV41 units & Fv46 Damper Adjustment
Use a flash light to look into the convection air
cavity and note the Damper Position Indicator.
Hook glass latch tool in the hole at the end of
the damper rod, release. Use a flashlight to
inspect the damper position. The base of the
damper adjustment rod has a pointer that
indicates the position of the damper.
38
Also applies to the M50
**Note, damper
could be at 12 or 6
o’clock position from
factory
40
Mendota Proflame Training
Looking at the screens, can you tell the difference
between a PF I remote & PF II remote?
A Proflame I
Power remote will have a
button house icon to the
lower right of the
room
Thermostat button temperature.
Off = manual Where Proflame II
On = thermostatic remote will just
Smart = Thermostatic, have temperature
modulates the BTU
output
(** To bottom of unit to bottom guide 7-7/8” & from bottom of unit to glass on ML 47 & ML39 = 8.25” **)
For every 1" the unit is raised above the floor, you may reduce the hearth protection by 2”
A combustible trim or mantel leg or that comes down along the side of a unit is a 1:1 measurement.
Example, a combustible mantel leg comes down alongside the unit and protrudes out 5”.
This would mean that the combustible mantel leg would need to be 5” away from the glass frame of the unit.
*IF the mantel or mantel leg or trim piece are painted, stained, or cleared. Over time it can discolor, darken,
bubble or crack. Always use hi temp paints.
42
Mendota Proflame Training
43
Mendota Proflame Training
Change remote from F* to C* (temperatures) (PF1 & PF2)
Press and hold the Thermostat button and O (bottom button) at the same time and release
To put remote in Child Lockout or take out of Child Lockout (PF1 & PF2)
Press and hold the ^ (up button) and the O (bottom button) at the same time and release
44
Mendota Proflame Training
ALL AFUE RATINGS CERTIFIED USING U.S. DOE 10 CFR PART 430.
ALL P.4 RATINGS CERTIFIED USING CSA.P.4.1‐2002
MODEL AFUE RATING P.4 NG P.4 LPG
D30 70.0% 73.1 73.1
D40 75.7% 75.9 81.3
DXV35 73.0% 76.4 76.4
FV34 N/A 77.4 77.4
DXV42 79.0% N/A N/A
DXV45 73.4% 74.9 77.1
DXV60 71.5% N/A N/A
FV33i 75.9% 76 76
FV33‐M 74.6% 77.1 79.3
FV44i 74.0% 82 82
FV44‐M 77.8% 77.9 80
FV41 70.9% 72.7 72.7
FV41 Arch N/A 77.2 77.2
FV41‐M 72.0% 73.9 73.9
FV46 70.6% 72.3 72.3
M50 72.9% 74.8 74.8
M27 73.7% 70.4 69.8
ML-39 LINEAR N/A 77.3 77.3
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Mendota Proflame Training
FV46 & FV41 removal guide chart
DECORATIVE FRONT TYPE INNER GUIDE OUTER GUIDE
You will need to know at the time of install what front is being used to remove the correct guide
The guides can be removed either by drilling out rivets, or removing screws.
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Mendota Proflame Training
Mendota ML 47 Guide Removal chart
INNER OUTER
DECORATIVE FRONT TYPE GUIDE GUIDE
NO FRONT / SCREEN ONLY USE DISCARD
TRADITIONS USE DISCARD
WILLOWBROOK USE DISCARD
CAN USE USE IF ##
GRACE (see notes below) IF *** Must
order^^
CAN USE IF *** = Use INNER GUIDE if finishing material is LESS than
2" thick.
Grace front over laps inner guide and finish material, brackets only
extend 2”
*** NOTE: Grace fronts can use the inner guide and will overlap finish material if finish material is
2" or less in thickness and the material has a uniform surface less than 2” (tile or granite)
## NOTE: Grace fronts must use outer guide if material is thicker than 2" or has a uneven
surface (stone or rock)
If unsure or you do not know what finish material is to be used, you may want to use the outer
guide.
^^ Unit no longer comes with outer guides. If you need the outer guides, you will need to order
them,
Part number for outer guide kit is HA-90-00030
You will need to know at the time of install what front is being used to remove the correct guide.
The guides can be removed either by drilling out rivets, or removing screws.
47
Mendota Proflame Training
**
**
48
SIT Group Information Bulletin
Extensive testing by SIT has shown that the use of silicone in gas hearth appliances
and its use on the appliance vent pipe connections can negatively affect the flame
sensing circuit of the intermittent pilot ignition system, with the possible result of a
nuisance shut off.
This affect is due to silicone particulates/vapors coating the flame sensing rod and
pilot hood.
This coating electrically insulates these components of the pilot assembly which
inhibits the ability of the flame sensing circuit. The silicone coating can be
transparent, therefore in some cases it cannot be detected by a simple visual
inspection.
Cleaning of the sensing electrode and pilot hood can help remove silicone deposits
and restore the performance of the flame sensing circuit.
The cleaning operation should be performed with an abrasive material such as steel
wool or a fine metal brush.
The surfaces that need to be cleaned are highlighted in blue in figures 1 and 2. After
the cleaning operation is completed remove
any remaining residue around the pilot. Cleaning the pilot components well will be
as effective as replacing the electrode and the hood.
Fig. 2
Fig. 1
49
SIT Group Information Bulletin
When in T-STAT mode (ON or SMART), the Proflame Transmitter sends a refresh message
every ~10 minutes.
The only data that can change automatically in Smart thermostat mode without user action
is the BTU output that will be 0 (OFF) or level 1 thru 6 (6 being high).
For example, if for 24 hours the flame level remains ON at the same level (1..6) the system
will be shut-off.
Additionally, the Smart thermostat mode will continually adjust the flame down as the room
temperature gets closer to the set point. When the set point is achieved the flame will be
modulated down to off.
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Mendota Proflame Training
Suggested tools to diagnose a Proflame unit
51
Mendota Proflame Training
Logging onto the dealer website from www.Mendotahearth.com web page
Step #1
Click on Dealer Login in the
upper right corner
Step #2
Put in your login (usually e-mail address) & password
If you don’t have an account, please click on
Register for new account (account # will be needed)
Step #3
Click on the
Service & Install tab
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Mendota Proflame Training
MENDOTA PROFLAME II DEALER REPAIR KIT
for FV46, FV41, FV41M, FV44 & FV33, DXV45DT3&4 and DXV35 DT3&4, ML units
Part #AA-11-01735
See page 4
25% Dealer Cost of Parts
Manual
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Mendota Proflame Training
FV MENDOTA PROFLAME I DEALER REPAIR KIT
for FV41, FV41M, FV44 & FV33, DXV45DT3 and DXV35 DT3 Part #AA-11-01255
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Mendota Proflame Training
Proflame 1
All PF1 LX units will have a receiver & remote factory installed. The silver switch (which is usually on the lower
left side of the unit, depending upon model) is a IPI/CPI standing pilot switch. IPI meaning Intermittent Pilot
Ignition and CPI meaning Continuous Pilot Ignition or standing pilot.
*The receiver for the unit, in the OFF position will still allow a CPI pilot to light, but will not allow a IPI pilot and
will prevent burners from lighting.
** (if the receiver is in the OFF position, you will still have the light bulb functions & blowers functions,
provided the remote is not in a thermostatic mode)
Proflame 2
All PF2 units will come standard with remote, and is required to operate the unit. The receiver is now
concealed in the unit. The remote will be the only point of ON control for the fireplace. The silver switch (which
is usually on the lower left side of the unit, depending upon model) is a master STOP switch, and will kill IPI
pilot and burners.
* Master stop switch in the OFF position will still allow a CPI pilot light, but will stop an IPI pilot from lighting
and will prevent burners from lighting.
**(if the master stop switch is in the OFF position, you will still have the light bulb & blowers functions,
provided the remote is not in a thermostatic mode, smart or on)
When a unit is left in CPI mode “continuous pilot ignition” it will keep the pilot going provided that wind does
not blow out the pilot or AC power has not been lost to the unit. The pilot will remain lit, if batteries are plugged
in to the fireplace and AC power is lost. You can keep batteries plugged in at all times provided the end user
is making sure that the batteries are changed every few months. The pilot still could be blow out with wind
issues.
If the unit was just started up, lets just say in IPI mode “intermittent pilot ignition” or was just put into CPI mode
“Continuous pilot ignition” there can be cold air pushing down the exhaust pipe, not allowing the unit to
exhaust properly.
If that is the case, the unit cannot exhaust fast enough and burns up all the oxygen in the firebox causing the
flames to be really blue and drop out. The unit being in IPI “intermittent pilot ignition” is very common with
homeowners trying to save energy or a homeowners who forgot to turn the unit into CPI mode when the
weather turns cold.
By keeping the unit in CPI mode this will try and maintain an exhaust path so when the unit is turned on it can
exhaust properly and supply the unit with outside air for combustion.
There is nothing that is going to prevent wind from taking out a pilot.
The unit will attempt to light the pilot 3 times. After the 3rd unsuccessful attempt in a row, the unit will go into
“lockout mode”. Wind, deposits on flame rod (soot & silicon off gassing), gas pressures, improper voltages,
flame not hitting the rectification rod will also put the unit into lockout mode.
Please refer to page 11 or page 21 for clearing lockout mode.
55
Mendota DXV60 & DXV 45 Rear Burner Instructions
Mendota has improved the rear burner in the DXV60 & DXV45 units. The part numbers for the
burners have not changed; they are still the same part numbers. A bracket has been added to help
prevent the rear logs from falling forward, along with holes to assist in lighting the rear burner.
Please use the below instructions for the DXV 60 & 45 units.
Rear tabs
Step 1. The burner tube will have tabs both on the front of burner tube. Bend both front tabs
all the way over (away from burner, please see front tabs in picture #1 & then bend FRONT
burner tabs over in picture #2)
#2
#3
Step 4. Now you can install the coal bed. Please make
sure the coal bed rests / lays on the burner air box, not on
the front tabs.
New holes to
assist in
#4 lighting rear
burner
56
Mendota Direct Vent Inserts
AA-11-01851, 4x3 co-linier direct vent kit (35 ft. kit for 33i & 44i) Please see next page for pictured example
AA-11-02118, 4x4 co-linier direct vent kit (35 ft. kit for D30 & D40) Please see next page for pictured example
Over the course of the last two seasons Mendota Technical services , in cooperation with several
dealers/installers have addressed the issue of “cold stacking “. Labored startup during extreme cold weather,
resulting in the unit ghosting, a condition caused by the inability to expel the exhaust gases from the
combustion chamber caused by cold air infiltrating and capping the exhaust liner, causing loss of rectification ,
and dropping out repeatedly until going into lock out.
As well as negative house pressures, when the draft pressure inside the home is stronger than the draft
pressure inside the unit creating the inability to expel exhaust gases or the tendency to exhaust thru the intake
air channels. A scenario that can be caused in an extremely tight home and possibly the combination of
powered exhaust fans, attic vents etc.
In working thru many hours of these system failures with technicians in the field, Mendota Technical Services
has discovered that in most every case these symptoms can be corrected with the use of a complete co-linier
vent system, and strongly recommend :
1. Installing both air intake and exhaust liners completely to the termination cap, utilizing a direct vent
termination cap with both air intake and exhaust connections, thus creating a “Direct Vent” system, drawing
combustion air and expelling exhaust to the outside of the structure, guaranteeing air quality within the
home.
3. In the Northern tier, extremely cold climate areas or in extremely tall fireplace applications, insulate the
exhaust liner.
The pilot light produces a very small amount of BTU output; however, it is what is responsible for maintaining
draft between burn cycles. The colder the climate, the quicker the cold air will infiltrate the exhaust liner and the
further down the length of the liner it will be able to travel between cycles. Also, the further away termination is
from the unit, the more the ability to maintain heat in the exhaust liner decreases.
4. It is imperative that the unit be ran in CPI throughout the burn season.
No amount of insulation or any type of venting configuration will make up for the lack of pilot heat maintaining
draft between burn cycles. Not only will leaving the unit in standing pilot maintain draft, it will help eliminate the
buildup of condensation within the unit and vent system, eliminating corrosion and prolonging the life of
components.
57
Mendota DV cap p/n
45-01-00318
Used on AA-11-01851
(33i & 44i)
58
Mendota Proflame Training
How to re-sync an AA-11-00874 Digital Wall Switch remote
*Please note the head unit is NOT to be installed under unit, Install in wall only
2. Unplug black transformer both ends under fireplace or power off circuit to fireplace
If you can’t then power off circuit breaker to fireplace
* Transformer must be installed in metal heat shield box
4. Wait 5 minutes
5. Turn circuit breaker back on, or plug transformer back in both ends
6. Slide wall switch to REMOTE (head unit on wall)
7. Install tested batteries into remote
8. Once display comes on and shows icons on remote, hold UP button down
9. You should hear a faint beep in 5 seconds, release up button
10. Sync should now be complete
a. if this does not work, repeat steps 1-9 before replacing AA-11-00874 Kit.
Clearing battery icon on the head unit of your 873 or 874 wall control
You may notice a battery icon on your display, the head unit does not use batteries
1. Power off breaker that powers fireplace
2. Wait 5 minutes
3. Power breaker back on to fireplace
4. Battery Icon should now be gone
5. If not, repeat steps 1-4 over
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Items to check when odors are present
1. Glass gasket bunched up in corner (s) or even sagging in the middle or sides of glass
a. See picture below in corner where gasket is bunched up and causing a leak.
b. Mendota’s new method of gasketing glass is to use 4 pieces of gasket material (see next page)
c. Make sure a electronic sniffer was used to determine no leaks around glass or unit**
UEI model CD100A : GENERAL model CGD900 : UEI model CD200 : SENSIT model 906-000000-08
d. Unusual whiting in one area of gasket or on glass (usually related to a leak in gasket around glass)
i. You can see in picture above where gasket leaked and turned white.
e. Make sure all latches on glass frame are latched
2. Has the unit had at least 1 curing session (4 hours straight burners on high, with blowers down low or OFF)
3. Glass lens screwed in tight and sealed?
4. On an insert check to make sure top vent adaptor is sealing properly
a. Make sure adaptor is not bowed up causing a leak
b. Make sure that top adaptor plate is latched onto back of insert properly (see picture below)
Please ensure all the above were checked before contacting Mendota
10. Were finish materials used that contain a “high polymer” and heated up are off gassing?
11. Proper install of the unit was followed per the Mendota install manual (framing, clearance to combustibles)
12. Paints can cause odors once heated up (paint needs to be rated for 300 degrees)
Use an industrial Acrylic, or Industrial latex or industrial urethane sealant
Try and pin point where the odors are coming from, (top, side, lower)
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Mendota Proflame Training
1. The new glass gasket will come in 4 pieces (Top & bottom & 2 sides)
2. Take glass out of frame (bend tabs back using a regular screw driver or drill out pop rivets that hold metal L brackets in place)
3. Remove old gasket and adhesive (use razor blade to clean off old glass gasket residue)
4. Peel back plastic on new gasket. Gasket will be sticky
5. Center new gasket so dotted line is centered on the “edge” of glass
Bulb of gasket
Dotted line in
center of gasket
6. Fold gasket over and press onto glass to assist in sealing on both sides of glass
7. Make sure that corners don’t bulge out, gasket should slightly overlap in corners (note A below)
8. Re-install glass with gasket back into frame, with bulb of gasket facing firebox
9. Bend tabs over to hold glass or install new pop rivets to hold glass
10. Re-install glass frame back onto unit
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Mendota Proflame Training
ML39
DXV35 DXV42 DXV45 DXV60
M50 M27
317 22
16
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