ARNI SILK PARK

1.INTRODUCTION:

1.1. ABOUT ARNI:

Arni Town holds 2000 years of very rich historic heritage. Hierarchy of several Kings
ruled Arni and to specify important few - Pallava Kingdom, Chola Kingdom,
VijayaNagar Kingdom and Marathi Kingdom. In 300 BC, during Pallavas rule, Kanchi
was enjoyed Capital importance and Arni was businesswise importance. Arni was came
under Chola Kingdom, when Pallavas got defeated in the war. Arni remained as Capital
especially during the Dynasty of Sambuvarayars. History between BC 1070 and 1370
had recorded the rule of Sambuvaryar Kings like Rajagambeera Sambuvarayar,
Ekambara natha Sambuvarayar, Adhimallan Sambuvaraya Perumal, Kannudayan
Vikrama Chola Sambuvarayar & finally Raja Narayana Sambuvarayar who belonged to
Jambu Maharishi Gothram.

Vijayanagara Kingdom: BC 1370- 1640)

Arni was under the rule of Vijayanagara Kingdom with Vijayanagaram as their Capital
and the ruled places like Vellore and Zone Arni. As a special privilege, Arni Zone
Officials were permitted to construct their own Fort for administrative convenience,
safety and security. It is interesting to note that all the safety and special features
available in the bigger Fort of Vijayanagaram are also available in the smaller Arni Fort.

Krishna Devarayar:

One of the memorable Great Kings who ruled India is Emperor Devarayar, who helped
to form and flourish Hindu Raj simultaneously accommodating other religions with broad
approach and for coexistence of all religions. He was born in a small place called
Devikapuram, which is close to Arni. This fact comes to limelight through the
documentary movie “History in sculptures”. During Vijayanagar Kingdom, the famous
Shiva temple for Kanagahreeswarar & Periyanayagi Amman was constructed. This

1
Emperor constructed Raja Gopuram for Tiruvannamalai Arunachaleswarar Temple.
During his Kingdom only, silk weaving was introduced. Emperor Devarayar’s
Vijayanagar rule period is considered Golden period in all aspects.

Marathi Dynasty (1638 B.C – 1948 B.C)

Arni was captured for ruling by King Shaji (father of the Great Shivaji Maharaj) and he
carried on his rule through his Army Chief Shri Vedaji Baskara Pundit. In 1677 BC, the
Great Emperor Shivaji captured Vellore and he permitted Shri Baskara Pundit to
continue to administer Arni. During Marathi Dynasty, Sathya Vijayanagarm New Town
was constructed, which is located in North East direction from Arni.

During Marathi Dynasty- In Arni, silk weaving activity flourished and standard of living of
weavers were also better.

In BC 1760, Arcot Fort and Arni Fort came under East India Company control. In
support of East India Company, Robert Kelly and Marudhanayagam played major role
and during that time only a portion of Arni Fort was destroyed and Robert Kelly died.
Even today the pillars constructed in his memory @ Kellys in Arni Fort grounds, stand
as historic evidence.

People of High Repute from Arni –

Govinda Dikshidhar and Abbhaya Dikshidar:

Born in Arni, Govinda Dikshidar, was Chief Minister and Rajaguru during Nayakkar
Kings, who ruled from Thanjavur, a town which houses “Saraswathi Mahal” containing
thousands of rare books collection.

Abbhaya Dikshidar alias Abhara Sankarachiar, born in Adayapulam near Arni was an
exponential pundit in all Sastras comparable to Adhi Sankarar.

2
Arni’s contribution to Indian freedom struggle:

Mahatma Gandhiji presided Khadi cloth awareness meeting on 09 09 1927, inside rice
mill premises of Parasurama Naicker; Gandhiji also conducted Women Association
meeting on the same day at Arni.

On 02 02 1934, Gandhiji led the move for untouchability eradication. Shri Rajendra
Prasad and Thacker Baba also participated in that meeting. Other important local
leaders who attended that meeting were Shri A M Parasurama Naicker, Shri M V
Subramaniya Sasthiriyar, Shri N Govindaraju Chettiar, Shri S Aalalasundara Mudaliar,
Shri V G Seshachala chettiar, Mr.Azeez Saibu, Shri W S Srinivasa Rao, Dr V Hariharan,
Shri V C Natesa Chettiar

Handloom Society was first shaped in Arni by the efforts of Dr V Hariharan and even
today same society is functioning in the name of Arni Cooperative Silk Society. The
seed sown by Dr Hariharan has made Arni as Silk Town, thanks to the efforts of local
handloom weavers and Arni silk saree manufacturers.

Silk remains as the prime identity for Arni Town, for more than 50 years.

1.2. ARNI SILK CLUSTER

Arni is one of 11 Taluks in Tiruvannamalai District and also one of 234 State
Constituencies, one of 39 MP constituencies. Silk weaving was introduced during the
Kingdom of Vijayanagara Samrajyam.

Handloom Silk has been the exclusive identity of Arni for more than half century. Arni
boasts of special skilled weavers who integrate technique of Gold plated Silver Jari for
weaving handloom silk sarees. More than 25000 special skilled weavers comprise Arni
Silk cluster. This cluster consists of weavers and designers who won All India
Recognition Awards and have created World Guinness record handloom silk sarees.

3
Shri M S Janardhanan, renowned Artist/Silk saree Designer/saree producer was
awarded with the prestigious recognition as “Best Design Consultant” by Central Silk
Board. He was selected for promoting Vanya Silk, which is United Nation Development
Project. Artistic work and sample products created by him for propagating Vanya Silk;
his idea and efforts were helpful for social upliftment of North States Silk handloom
weavers, who needed an economic push. The “sample products “developed by him are
preserved by Central Silk Board and also exhibited, which is a great recognition for his
creativity. Publishing an article in the monthly issue “Indian Silk June 2000” by Central
Silk Board speaks the merit of the contents in his creativity of ideas and samples.

Even nowadays, Traditional Techniques like PETNI (knotting of Pallu warp and Body
Warp) and flexible warp beam are being continued to produce handloom silk sarees.
Number of weavers using Throw shuttle technique is equal to numbers of weavers
using Fly shuttle. Similarly, number of looms equipped with tool called “Thallu machine”
(to Interlock body weft and border weft) to produce “Korvai” saree is equal to number of
Hand korvai looms for which 2 weavers to join the efforts to make korvai/contrast saree.

Brands of International repute like RmKV, Nalli, Kumaran - are proactive participants –
for introduction/production of Silk saree varieties and thereby support the growth of Arni
Silk Cluster.

Arni Silk cooperative society, conceived and commenced by Dr.Hariharan in 1957 has
been running successfully till now. Arni Silk Cloth Merchants Association started in 1963
is also running well for nearly 60 years. Both organizations have been actively
contributing for healthy growth of Arni Silk Cluster.

Central Silk Board introduces various schemes and integrates with Central/State
Governments for promotion of Silk Cluster and Weaver Service Center as well as
imparting training for further improvisation in designing, weaving and harness building.
Both these important organizations are like two eyes for the growth of Arni.

4
More than 2000 weavers own Pneumatic Jacquard Lifting equipment and Motorized
Pirn winding machine, for which the owners were assisted with 75 % subsidy.

Around 100 Designers of Arni Silk cluster were also provided with 75 % subsidy – for
upgrading their CAD aided design, supportive software & also for acquiring auto card
punching machine. 75 % Subsidy was also extended for purchasing 25 Nos of Silk
Twisting Units.

Arni silk sarees are well accepted by customers as they recognize superiority of Arni
weaving style; and therefore weavers of Salem and Madanapalli also have started using
“Arni- weaving style” silk sarees. Therefore, those local groups also stand to gain
monetarily and businesswise grow further. Arni Silk cluster is proud to have highest
number of young weavers and their intrinsic creativity with dedicated hard work.
Villagers around Arni too contribute for producing silk sarees which helps them
economically, possibly offering better scope than agriculture.

Arni Silk has secured GI & IHB recognition (Geographical Indication) & (India Handloom
Brand) by registering with Central Government (Ministry of Commerce -Department of
Industry Promotion and Internal trade). Present membership in Arni Silk Cluster is
around 25,000 weavers; around 20000 looms are in operation for producing traditional
silk saree; around 5000 looms are engaged in creating specially crafted traditional hand
korvai/contrast sarees, with the help of set of two special weavers.

ARNI SILK: QUEEN OF SILK SAREES:

Admirers of Silk sarees state that Kanchi is the King of Silk sarees while Arni is the
Queen of Silk sarees.

The word “Silk saree” always denotes Arni Silk saree, which is crafted in length of 9
yards and 6 yards with border woven with “muthu kattam” (small checked pattern).
Select customers wear such silk sarees on daily basis, with sense of pride and joy.

The most renowned is “Koorai Pudavai” – which is special silk saree in Maroon colour
with inbuilt golden yellow Muthu kattam, mostly chosen -wear by any bride for wedding

5
occasion. Arni Silk is famous for its golden jari (gold plated on pure silver) woven on
pure silk and the same has been registered for Geographical Indication (GI)

Specialty of Arni Silk saree is its crafting with best chosen Motifs (found in temples are
selected) as symbol of traditional designs reflecting as Rudraksh, Tilak, Kalas, Kamal,
Vangi, Maadam, Mango, kodi, Hamsa, Yazhi, Peacock, Elephant, Horse - for crafting on
silk sarees with Korvai using PETNI technique. Superiority uniqueness of Arni Silk
Saree is variety of designs like Half and half, Tripart, double side equal border, small
border and big border saree, double munthi, 2 colours with checked design, 3 colours
checked, Mat checked, strips, Jari checked, jari stripes.

India Handloom Brand recognition has been awarded by Central Government for silk
sarees of Arni such as Brocade, Jangala, and Contrast border which are done using
jacquard weaving technique and crafted to meet the customers’ current taste.

ARNI CONTRAST BORDER (KORVAI):

Three shuttles are used for weaving contrast border (Korvai) silk sarees. For weaving
both side borders – two shuttles are used; while another shuttle is used to weave body
of silk saree. For Border designs, silver and golden jari threads are used as Extra warp
and, for Pallu & Body designs silver and golden jari threads are used as Extra weft.
Korvai sarees with traditional Deep shades & traditional motifs have always been the
1st and best choice of any bride.

ARNI BROCADE:

Specialty of Arni Brocade saree is – its intricate floral designs made using extra weft
and containing silver and golden jari. Arni Brocade sarees with special designs and in
ideal colour combinations are the best choice for wedding occasions.

ARNI JANGLA:

Basic silk yarn is used as Warp and Weft (without using extra warp) with intricate
designs, whereas for framing pallu and border pure silver and golden jari is used as
additional warp and weft. Arni Jangla sarees have been the bride’s choice in

6
appreciation of fancy colour and smooth softness. Arni Jangla silk sarees are being
consigned to several cities like Chennai, Trichy, Madurai, several states such as
Andhra, Kerala, Karnataka, West Bengal, Uttar Pradesh, Kashmir and being exported to
countries like Singapore, Malaysia, European countries and USA.

Arni Silk sarees get periodic updation in terms of designs, colour combinations and
weaving pattern and colour combinations with intricate designs & motifs are being
introduced to meet changing taste of customers. Arni silk with finest weaving techniques
remain as the symbol of our rich tradition.

1.3. BUSINESS VOLUME

10000 looms are in operation using Jacquard technique for producing Brocade and
Jangala type silk sarees in traditional designs using modern colour combinations.
Wedding Silk sarees are also exclusively produced using original silk and golden jari in
traditional colours and with unique designs.

Out of 20000 handlooms, 3000 nos are being operated by Coop societies, remaining
17000 nos are accounted for by tiny and small units; out of this 17000 nos, around
10000 looms are owned by 100 micro entrepreneurs and balance around 7000 looms
are deployed by 50 small entrepreneurs.

On an average, Coop societies and Tiny Small units manage to produce 60000 Silk
sarees every month, 20,000 sarees are accounted for by 5000 looms, that is, at the rate
of 4 pieces per loom. On an average, a weaver earns wages of Rs.5000 per saree.

Around 30000 silk sarees are produced by 10000 looms at the rate of 3 pieces per
loom. Wages for this type of saree weaving is Rs.5000 to Rs.10000 per saree. Around
10,000 silk sarees are crafted by 5000 looms, at the rate of 2 pieces per loom.
A weaver is able to earn wages of Rs.10000 per saree.

7
Around 4000 weavers/workers are directly involved in silk related jobs like twisting silk
yarn, dyeing and silk design settings.

2000 kgs (approx) of raw silk is being acquired from Tamilnadu and Karnataka weavers;
1000 Kgs produced on Job work basis and another 1000 kgs are from looms
maintained by owners.
2000 Kgs of raw silk are taken up for dyeing; 1000 Kgs is by Job dyers and 1000 kgs by
proprietary units.

Dyed silk yarns undergo Sizing process before weavers take up for weaving in looms.
Required Jaris of all types are being sourced from Surat, Gujarat State.

8
NUMBER OF LOOMS IN OPERATION in ARNI SILK CLUSTER (location wise)

Arni, Mullipattu 1000

Sevoor 1000
Kunnathur 500
Athimalaipattu
5000
Onnupuram, Durgam
Nadukuppam
1000
Iluppakunam, Kalambur
Keelpattu 1000
Maampattu 500
Marusoor, Arayalam 500
Devikapuram 1500
Aagaaram , Thirumani
Anmaruthai, Aavaniapuram 1000
Vazhaipandal
Munugapattu
Seesamangalam 1500
Cheyyar 500
Irumbedu, Thimiri
Pudupet, SV Nagaram
5000
Meyyoor
TOTAL 20000 LOOMS

2. ACTIVITIES OF HANDLOOM CLUSTER

9
2.1. SILK YARN TWISTING

Before the raw silk is woven into fabric, it goes through a series of operations which
conditions/prepares for the loom. The series of preliminary preparatory processes
involved for which the following machineries are required.

Winding

The main functions of winding are to put the yarn in a long continuous length to suit later
processes and also the eliminate imperfections such as slubs, seak places, dirt and so
on.

Doubling

The object of doubling is to double the individual threads. Doubling avoids unevenness
and the strength of doubled yarn is correspondingly better than the single thread.

Twisting

Silk Twisting machine is of up twister principle. There is a vertical spindle on which

doubling bobbin is mounted and yarn from this is wound on to a perforated bobbin
mounted horizontally and driven by surface contact. Twist is impacted on account of
difference between the speed of the spindle and winding drum.

Reeling

Reeling machine is like winding machine to convert twisted silk yarn into skein form to
facilitate dyeing.

Warping

Conversion of twisted yarn in the Bobbin into warp sheet, with specified number and
specific length is called Warping. Normally sectional warping is followed for easier
handling and transportation.
2.2. SILK YARN DYEING

10
Colouring of a silk yarn by using chemical bonding of the dye with the yarn

Dye is a water soluble, transparent colouring agent that saturates and bonds with the
silk yarn. Direct dye also known as hot-water dye can be used with hot water and
requires no leveling or exhausting agents. It is convenient but lacks in light fastness and
wash fastness. Acid dyes are the best for solid colour dyeing of silk yarns.

These powdered dyes are intended for tub-dyeing and require very hot water to dye
effectively. Hence indirect steam is used. Vinegar, citric acid or acetic acid is also used.
Acid dyes are very economical, as they react fast, exhaust well and the results are very
permanent-light and wash fast. For tub-dyeing this is the best dye, the colour depends
on the temperature, the quantity of dye used, time, and quantity of yarn. Acetic acid
changes the PH of the dye bath, making it mildly acidic, which causes the colour to
strike on the yarn.

The Process

1. Segregation of the lot – to remove entanglements etc.,

2. Degumming to remove the natural gum.
3. Washing and neutralising
4. Dyeing or colouring in the tub-indirect steam heated.
5. Scrooping to improve handling and luster
6. Hydro extraction – to remove water
7. Drying in shade

2.3. SILK SAREE DESIGNING

11
3 important inputs like Colour, Theme and Lay out bring out the best jacquard design. If
one can spot suitable colours in advance, the same can be used for predicting the trend
in current designs. Every colour has its own supreme effect on customers, green is
highly popular amongst customers as well as traders, while golden yellow, red, pink,
orange and magenta symbolize prosperity.

Indian traditional sarees have evolved as cultural and traditional fabric which has
embraced itself with a plethora of symbols, motifs, patterns, colours and wearing styles.
During the time functions like birth, puberty, marriage wearing traditional silk saree is
considered to carry sentimental values, Traditional silk sarees have the great power of
combining religion, art, tradition, economic freedom and folklore.

Themes are the key element of design and crucial in predicting trends. Motifs from
temple, landscape scene, series of birds, animals and flowers are taken as base of
developing designs. Themes often start as a pure idea and moves further to influence
next seasonal trend. Even popular culture shown in good films influence such designing
Trends are also influenced by seasonal catwalks, to a great extent.
Layout of the design:

Arrangement of Pallu, border and body in a saree is described as Layout of saree. This
layout is created in different permutation and combination as per the trend. Pallu portion
of the saree is the most appealing and decorative feature from sales point of view.
Designing the Pallu is ultimate challenge for any designer and often inspiration is drawn
from nature, flora and fauna, birds, trees, flowers, fruits, animal and temple architecture
etc.

Designing is driven as per the taste of the Designer or as per the order procured. The
design is either based on natural motifs or geometric pattern. Designing involves
various stages like

12
 freehand drawing followed by
- segment drawing, then to convert into
- pixels to form
- weaving pattern
- lay out framing and finally to
- card punching and lacing
- weave the silk saree

In the electronic jacquard, once designs are finalized the same is transferred from
system to memory cards for the purpose of the weaving stage.

2.4. HANDLOOM WEAVING

The dyed warp received from the dyer is spread on pole stands and checked for
entanglements, number of ends leased etc., and taken to the raised pit loom. Part of
warp is again spread, drawn through the mail eyes of the harness – set. The rest of the
warp is tied and released as weaving proceeds and would be spread and used after the
1st portion of warp has been woven into saree.

The harness is connected to the jacquard/jacquards (as per motif requirements). The
silk warp is drawn through the bamboo reed, which maintains the parallelism, spacing
and of course the density of warp threads in the saree, Zari threads are also introduced,
based on cost angle and design requirements.

By Operating the treadle levers (by legs), connected to the jacquards, the handloom
weaver is able to create required shed or opening through which shuttle carrying the
weft yarn is inserted.

13
The lifting order of warp threads, to create the required design, is again decided by the
chain of punched cards loaded on to the jacquards. That is to say, the punched card will
decide the sequence of lifting of warp threads by the jacquard.

To ease the strain on the weaver in physically lifting the threads by operating the
jacquard by the legs, assistance is envisaged by the introduction of a pneumatic
cylinder which will function to take up the jacquard knives carrying the selected hooks,
in turn lifting the desired warp threads and create a “shed”.

In conjunction with the operation of jacquard in the above said manner, the weaver
throws the shuttle carrying the weft on pirn, into the shed, full width or partial (as per
design requirement) and catch the shuttle on the other side of the shed, laying the weft
yarn in the process (to the desired extent of width of fabric).

Now, the weaver will bang or beat-up sley carrying the reed to make the inserted weft
yarn to form the fabric.

The process of shedding (by operating the jacquard), picking (throwing the weft yarn
into the open shed), and beat-up (banging or moving the laid weft yarn in the shed to
form part of the fabric) constitute the primary functions of fabric forming by the weaving
process. These operations are repeated again and again to complete the fabric.

In between, the weaver does a host of secondary, ancillary functions and checks like,
manually winds up the fabric in the front, loosens the tied warp as per required tension
in warp, removed potential entanglements, and ensures the correct functioning of
jacquard and the loom so that the motifs are woven exactly as per the overall design.
The complex multi-functional nature of had loom weaving is an art and calls for high skill
and attentiveness on the part of the weaver, to produce exquisite designs.

14
3.CHALLENGES & SOLUTIONS:

3.1. CHALLENGES FACED BY WEAVERS:

Present strength of weavers stands reduced to 25000 numbers, compared to the

strength of 50,000 in the year 1995; reasons are like the extra efforts involved in the
preparatory process before weaving, hard work required for weaving, need for all the
family members to work together in same saree weaving work. Growing industrialization
offers attractive job opportunities to the youngsters. Therefore, formation of handloom
clusters and silk parks are very essential to retain existing weavers and to involve
female and attract young male weavers in this field. Standard of living of weavers needs
to be improved similar to those benefits extended by organized sector for the purpose of
retaining the young local native talent in active production centers like Arni.

Specialty of handloom Arni silk saree is to craft exclusive design and vibrant colours to
meet the specific expectation of each customer. Special skill of crafting original silk
saree with artistic designs must be preserved for generations and conscious efforts
must be taken to prevent duplication of those designs by power loom saree production
units, that too on synthetic yarn.

Formation of small clusters with 50 weavers under the guidance of one Master Weaver
is essential to save time & expenditure involved for ensuring the quality of handloom
process. Punch cards are vital for formation of border and design in the body portion in
silk saree; advantage in cluster type of production offers possibility to exchange punch
cards giving better scope for various permutations and combinations in designing
border and body portion in handloom silk sarees. Clear advantage of production in
cluster form - is safety for the costly silk, golden jari and also continuity in production
(without break in case a weaver leaves in between) schedules. In case of difference of
opinion crops up between producer and a weaver, the production can be carried out by
another weaver. This chance is not available when job of weaving is entrusted to a
weaver who operates from his home.

15
The looms in Silk Park can be deployed for extended hours by employing two weavers
on two shifts and thereby the investment made is better justified. For example, first shift
may be from 6 am to 2 pm and 2nd shift from 2 pm to 10 pm.

Economist Adam Smith’s Theory on Division of Labour:

When 10 steps involved in manufacturing of pin is done by one person, he can make
only 20 pins/a day. When 10 persons involve covering all 10 steps, they can make only
200 pins/a day (20 pins X 10 persons)
When a person repeats only the same 1 step (on dividing the steps), production would
be 48000 pins/day.

This is the fundamental approach of England’s Economist Adam Smith’s theory on

division of labour to enhance the production quantity and also to improve quality of
products.

Steps in making silk sarees:

1.Warp sizing – application of starch/gum on yarn

2.Winding yarn- on the Loom rollers
3.Warp knotting –
4.Yarn on the smaller wheels
5.Pirn winding
6.Weaving
7.corrections in warp yarn
8.corrections in Jacquard box

A weaver works for 8 hours a day covering all these 8 stages might complete one silk
saree in 10 days’ time to earn wages of Rs.5000 (approx.). On the contrary, when
Adams theory of Division of Labour is adopted, every weaver follows only 1 step and he
specializes in that particular aspect and develops good speed in execution and hence
productivity increases, both in quantity and quality.

16
Team Work:

Team work environment inspires workers to contribute better as boredom in solitary

state is averted.
It is very important to realize the important of team work especially considering the
current competitive market. Team work also enhances the creativity amongst workers
and it is possible to get new ideas and techniques as ideas of few are forged towards
betterment. Weaving silk saree involves several steps and nature of work shows these
steps and inter dependent and therefore Team work is ideal for weaving.

Productivity improves when the weaver works in comfortable posture compared to the
traditional work conditions, where he has to work operating his legs from a trench. While
operating from home, the chance for getting diversion of mind is more whereas in
cluster form of work situation, environment offers better scope for fine craftsmanship
and creativity. When weavers work wearing uniform with identity cards, they feel better
to perform than white collar job staff and feel proud to be recognized as best craftsmen.

Establishment of silk looms on cluster arrangement and continuing production and are
very important criteria to be eligible to apply for subsidy under the schemes announced
by Central Silk Board, which functions under control of Central Textile Ministry, Textile
committee and Handloom Department of Tamil Nadu Government. Entrepreneurs are
entitled to get subsidy on components like cost of Electronic Jacquard machine and raw
silk purchases. Weavers would be entitled to get facilities like workers PF, ESIC,
Pension and Insurance, when they work under the cluster umbrella of Silk Park.

3.2. MANUFACTURERS’ CHALLENGES & SOLUTIONS:

Padma Bhushan Awardee Mrs. Rukmini Arundale was keen in developing nurturing and
propagating in traditional fine arts of our country. In the year 1937, she established
weaving centers and developed training centers for weaving, inside Kalachakra, where
handloom cloth is produced with crafted designs and using various colour combinations.

17
Kalashetra continues to spread Indian heritage and cultural outputs, throughout the
World.

Padma Bhushan Awardee Smt.Pupul Jayakar helped in establishing Weavers service

centers in the year 1950. These service centers are extending training to youngsters
and also in creating/sharing new trendy and traditional designs in silk weaving and help
the trainees to pass on this rich culture to the next generations.

Fine arts like Bharat Natyam, Carnatic music have got training centers for taking their
Arts to the next generation and like that spreading the skill of Art of Silk Weaving is also
equally important. Our Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi aspired that India must
become the center for spreading and promoting silk weaving. So, it is very important to
establish a Center for Training in weaving for young aspirants at Arni, so that this Fine
Art of weaving would flourish and youngsters would stay in this field with reasonable
living standards assured. Such training centers must spread the fine technique of
making gold plated silver jari, creation of intricate designs in pure silk saree. Youngsters
can learn techniques developed by other centers also during their spare time. New
entrepreneurs would evince interest to enter into this field when trained craftsmen are
locally available for making of various Silk types, Silk yarn twisting, dyeing skills and
designing silk sarees & in marketing techniques also.

There is growing demand worldwide for handloom textile goods and with proper training
in traditional weaving techniques, value addition can be made on home grown raw
materials like jute, cotton, silk, vanapattu. This step would help weavers and
entrepreneurs to strengthen the market globally and India can become Center of
Fashion Technology.

Common Jari Testing Center:

Gold plated pure silver Jari is being used in Arni Silk sarees and it is important to have
common centers for testing the fineness of silver and gold inputs. Such confidence

18
building measures would reinforce customers’ trust, mental comfort and reliability
resulting in boosted sales.

Research & Development (R & D) Unit:

With the help of Research units, Silk saree designs can be modified to new dimension
and improved to attract young customers also.

Research is required in the direction of improving the Fastness & other related
properties of the chemical dyes; improvement like stain free, wrinkle free additions is
immediate requirement. Solutions to the practical issues while dyeing with naturally
available raw materials to be addressed. Research must be oriented towards creation of
new colour combinations also.

Research must target addressing necessity like creation of intricate designs and new
techniques to be integrated with traditional weaving of silk products. With progress in
such steps, Arni Silk saree can be taken to the next level of great acceptance by
youngsters also.

Weaver to Wearer Market:

Today customers stand to gain much, with the technological advantages thrown open
by Internet and social media, sources and consumers stay connected easily hence it
appears World has shrunk. Consumers are habituated to gather necessary information
through net surfing and also in locating the material sources before concluding their
purchases by reaching the spot with the help of GPS.

19
Direct marketing facility to consumers by farmers was facilitated in “Uzhavar Sandhai”
formed by Dr. Kalaignar, for agricultural products. Similar model small retail hub at Arni
can be created on this “Weaver to Wearer basis”. Such an arrangement would enable
Arni Silk cluster producers to reach ultimate consumers easily and such comfortable
situation would help improved sales. Both customers and weavers stand to gain in this
arrangement. With affixed Indian Handloom Brand Mark or Handloom Mark tags, Tamil
Nadu weavers can gain from weekend sales.

3.3. DYERS’ CHANLLENGES AND SOLUTIONS:

Specialty of Arni Silk cluster is to introduce exclusive new silk sarees in variety of
designs and also in different colour combinations, creating good acceptance in the
market, resulting in more job opportunities for many weavers, who depend on silk
weaving for their livelihood. With an aim to support this, Central Silk Board advocated
introduction of new scientific method of dyeing, which saves time and cost and also
pollution compliant. Central Silk Board mooted the idea of subsidizing the investment for
modern dyeing units and hence Central/State Governments offered 75 % subsidy. With
this encouragement, few new scientific dyeing units came up into operation - utilizing
boilers, double jacketed dyeing vessel, water softening plant, Hydro extractor, silk
washing machine etc. on the lines suggested by Central Silk Board.

Prior to the guidance of Central Silk Board’s scientific method of dyeing, old process
was followed, which had drawbacks like usage of unpurified 700 ppm water, heat
reaching only up to 80 *C, usage of firewood, (before adding soap, soda and dyeing
powder) Upon chemicals added water reaching boiling point, the select yarn would be
soaked inside that water with dyes and chemicals (in boiling condition), surplus water
would be squeezed out and washed thrice in ordinary water. As a last step, the
dyed/washed yarn would be soaked in water containing acetic acid before final
squeezing for drying in shadow. Obviously, this process was consuming more time and
resulted in higher operating cost.

20
ADVANTAGES OF SCIENTIFIC METHOD OF DYEING OF CENTRAL SILK BOARD:

Important points of difference in scientific method compared to old method are:

Scientific method recommends usage of

-only softened water with < 50 ppm

-boiler for steam preparation from soft water
-Double Jacketed Dyeing Vessel to be used for dyeing purpose
-Hydro extractor for squeezing to do away with manual process
-washing the dyed yarn using washing machine

Clear advantages of this new scientific method of dyeing recommended by Central Silk
Board are – added strength of silk yarn and retention of chemical properties of the dye.
When boiler is used to produce steam for dyeing purpose, smoke and heat wastage are
avoided. Productivity gets enhanced because the worker is able to work without strain
and in better environment compared to various practical difficulties in the old process. In
short, direct 50 % saving of production expenses through less usage of fuel, lesser
consumption of inputs like acid, dyes, soap and soda - compared to old process,
whereas the quality of dyeing gets simply doubled.

Awareness was created amongst the weavers and producers of Arni Silk cluster about
the advantages in following the scientific method of dyeing introduced by Central Silk
Board (like change over from single bath dyeing and degumming) and as a result, the
quality of silk sarees produced in Arni stands better.

When we approached Central Silk Board for monetary assistance towards meeting the
cost of replacement with New Boiler, Double Jacketed Dyeing vessel, Water softening
plant, Hydro Extractor, Silk Washing Machine - - Silk Board clarified that our request
qualifies for eligibility, only upon switching over to the Modern scientific dyeing process
ensuring “ZLD” compliance. (Zero Liquid Discharge)

21
It is clear that the new scientific method of dyeing introduced by Central Silk Board
helps the entrepreneur to reduce the production cost by 50 % - owing to lesser Effluent
load – caused by using acetic acid & calcium bicarbonate (soft chemicals), water with
50 ppm hardness. Utilization of steam and double jacketed vessel in evaporator etc.
ensures cost control.

Latest scientific dyeing method facilitates better yield of Sericin (gum removed/protein)
enabling additional value – Sericin is required by Pharma products and beauty products
manufacturers. In other words, dyeing cost gets reduced when we adhere to process by
CETP, which is proposed in Industrial Park.

With usage of Azo free dye chemicals & latest scientific dyeing method of Central Silk
Board, it is possible to reach Zero Defect Zero effect scheme announced by Prime
Minister of India and to get recognition of India Handloom Brand. This step would help
in enhancing the acceptability of Arni Silk saree in India and abroad, creating
opportunity to have good earning and better standard of living for Arni weavers.

The present cluster of Arni weavers has got the greatest responsibility of handing over
pollution free and better groundwater sources to the next generation and to achieve this
purpose, it is very essential to have an exclusive Arni Silk Park with CETP facility.

3.4. DESIGNERS’ CHALLENGES

Younger generation form the major spenders for silk sarees for events and functions,
besides festival purchases. They keep updating their taste with technology platforms
and social media and hence seek changed new designs at affordable price. Retaining
the existing team of Designers and to attract new blood to this field of interest is being
widely discussed. These are challengers faced by Designers.

Present generation customers expect even simulated environment to suit the taste of
their design expectation. This is similar to what we see while choosing specs frame.

22
Technology enabled sharing is very essential to control the cost and to spread the fast
changing pattern to reach beneficial market. Using technology is inevitable to pool
creative ideas of several designers and also to maintain secrecy for preventing
unauthorized piracy. Brining all designers under one umbrella is the only answer for
sharing the technological advantage and survival; similarly, price advantage for ultimate
customers is the visible gain. Common Design Studio enriched with advanced software,
card punching, card lacing, prototype loom would address all these challenges; helping
hand of Government alone can help the situation to form Silk Park with all these
advanced facilities. This step would help the existing designers to stay back in the field
and also to attract next generation designers; even students from reputed Institutions
like NID, Ahmedabad, various centers of NIFT and also from abroad can be expected to
visit such Common Design Studio.

23
NEED FOR ECO FRIENDLY DYEING AWARENESS

Approx 3 Lacs litres of water is used for dyeing 3000 Kgs silk yarn. Therefore, with an
aim of creating awareness for optimizing water usage and to prefer treated water for
dyeing, programme was conducted in Jan 2015 by Tiruvannamalai Division of
Tamilnadu Pollution Control Board. Erection of Common Effluent Treatment Plant
(CETP) for treating polluted water containing dyeing chemical impurities, was the
outcome of the Programme. Advantage in Installation of CETP facility is to give direct
benefit by way of 2.70 lac litres (approx) recycled/treated water and also balance 0.30
lac litres of water usable for Green Belt. In this connection, Mr.Mohammed Abdul Kader,
Joint Director of Central Silk Board @ Kanchipuram guided us to meet Principal
Secretary of Handloom Shri Harmandhar Singh IAS, who directed us to seek guidance
from Mr.Jagmohan Singh Raju IAS, Principal Secretary and Director of Industries &
Commerce, SIDCO. With right guidance from all levels, SPV (Special Purpose Vehicle)
was formed in the name of Arni Handloom Silk Park, under Section 8 of Companies Act
2013.

24
Initiative efforts to acquire Land for Silk Park:

Expenditure estimate was prepared to form Silk Park with inbuilt Common Effluent Treatment Plant with
provision for infrastructure facilities like compound wall construction, road formation, sewerage
discharge facility, electricity connection and street light etc, as directed in G O No: 44. The details were
submitted to District Collector Shri Gnanasekaran I A S. Validation committee formed by District
Collector vetted the estimate and recommended to State Steering Committee. MOU was signed with
Tamilnadu Government during Global Investors Meet conducted in Sep 2015.

Following this, 37 acres of land was identified in Marusoor village, which was found to be in compliance
with norms of Pollution Control and Environment safety. The Identified dry land belongs to Kalaimagal
Sabha with headquarters @ Komarapalayam. In order to acquire this identified land on the price fixed
by Government, Official Receiver Shri S.Navaneethakrishnan (appointed by High Court)Madras – was
approached and he suggested to apply to Madras High Court for necessary clearance.

An application was mooted on 29.03.2016 in Madras High Court through advocate

Mr.Chandrakumar in WMP 24340 of 2016 in WMP No:514 of 1999. This application was
dismissed by Hon’ble High court on 09.02.2017. Thereupon, we appealed to Tiruvannamalai
District Collector Shri Kandasamy IAS for allotting 25 acres of poromboke land, similar to
allotment made to Kanchipuram Silk Park spawn in 76 acres poromboke land. He entrusted this
to a Task Committee headed by Tahsilder; Task committee expressed non availability of suitable
land of 25 acres, in due compliance of Pollution control and Environment protection norms and
specifications referred in Wild Life Act 1972 & Rule no: 7 (h) of EIA Notification 2006.

As an important preparatory step towards establishing Arni Silk Park, 22 Acres of land was purchased at
a price of Rs 3.50 Crores and registered (first 11 acres in 2020 and next 11 acres in 2021). The location is
called Melseesamangalam Madura Periyanallur, situated at 5 kms from Arni on Arni - Vandavasi road.

Arni constituency MP Shri M K Vishnuprasad voiced his concern in the House of Parliament highlighting
urgent need to establish Silk Park at Arni with all infrastructural facilities required to upkeep the
tradition and also to support livelihood of local weavers. As follow up, an appeal was submitted to
Mrs.Smiriti Irani, Hon’ble Minister for Textiles and Team of Officials of Central Silk Board visited on
30.08.2019 and had Brain storming session on Infrastructure development for Silk sector in Arni cluster.
As beginning result, hope of establishing Arni Silk Park with all common amenities blossomed.

At State Level, during 2020 an appeal was made to Mr.K.Ponmudi, Minister for Higher Education and
Mr.A V Velu, PWD Minister for establishing Silk Park in memory of Kalaignar Centenary – during the
election campaign “ Stalin’s voice towards dawn “. They assured to meet the genuine demands of

25
weavers, on DMK forming Government. Shri A V Velu PWD Minister directed Chief Secretary, Handloom
and Yarn Department for preparing DPR (Detailed Project Report).

NECESSITY TO ERECT COMMON EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT

Specialty of Arni Silk cluster is to introduce exclusive new silk sarees in variety of designs and also in
different colour combinations, creating good acceptance in the market, resulting in more job
opportunities for many weavers, who depend on silk weaving for their livelihood. With an aim to
support this, Central Silk Board advocated introduction of new scientific method of dyeing, which saves
time and cost and also pollution compliant. Central Silk Board mooted the idea of subsidizing the
investment for modern dyeing units and hence Central/State Governments offered 75 % subsidy. With
this encouragement, few new scientific dyeing units came up into operation - utilizing boilers, double
jacketed dyeing vessel, water softening plant, Hydro extractor, silk washing machine etc on the lines
suggested by Central Silk Board.

Prior to the guidance of Central Silk Board’s scientific method of dyeing, old process was followed, which
had drawbacks like usage of unpurified 700 ppm water, heat reaching only up to 80 *C, usage of
firewood, (before adding soap, soda and dyeing powder) Upon chemicals added water reaching boiling
point, the select yarn would be soaked inside that water with dyes and chemicals (in boiling condition),
surplus water would be squeezed out and washed thrice in ordinary water. As a last step, the
dyed/washed yarn would be soaked in water containing acetic acid before final squeezing for drying in
shadow. Obviously, this process was consuming more time and resulted in higher operating cost.

ADVANTAGES IN THE SCIENTIFIC METHOD OF DYEING of CENTRAL SILK BOARD:

Important points of difference in scientific method compared to old method are:

Scientific method recommends usage of

-only softened water with 50 ppm

-boiler for steam preparation from soft water
-Double Jacketed Dyeing Vessel to be used for dyeing purpose
-mechanized squeezing (avoiding manual practice)
-Hydro extractor for further twisting

Clear advantages of this new scientific method of dyeing recommended by Central Silk Board are –
added strength of silk yarn and retention of chemical properties of the dye. When boiler is used to
produce steam for dyeing purpose, smoke and heat wastage are avoided. Productivity gets enhanced
because the worker is able to work without strain and in better environment compared to various

26
practical difficulties in the old process. In short, direct 50 % saving of production expenses, usage of fuel
is 50 %, lesser (50 %) consumption of inputs like acid, dye power, soap and soda - compared to old
process, whereas the quality of dyeing gets simply doubled.

Awareness was created amongst the weavers and producers of Arni Silk cluster about the advantages in
modern scientific method of dyeing introduced by Central Silk Board (like change over from single bath
dyeing and degumming) and as a result, the quality of silk sarees produced in Arni stands higher.

When we approached Central Silk Board for monetary assistance towards meeting cost of replacement
with New Boiler Double Jacketed Dyeing vessel, Water softening plant, Hydro Extractor, Silk Washing
Machine, Silk Board clarified that our request qualifies for eligibility only upon switching over to the
Modern scientific dyeing process to ensure compliance of “Zero liquid discharge “.

As mentioned in the previous paragraphs, the new scientific method of dyeing introduced by Central Silk
Board helps to the entrepreneur to reduce the production cost by 50 % - owing to lesser Effluent load –
caused by using weak acetic acid & calcium bicarbonate, water with 50 ppm hardness. Utilization of
steam and double jacketed vessel in evaporator etc ensures cost control.

Latest scientific dyeing method facilitates better yield of Sericin (gum removed/protein) enabling
additional value – Sericin is required by Pharma products and beauty products manufacturers. In other
words, dyeing cost gets reduced when we adhere to process by CETP, which is proposed in Industrial
Park.

With usage of Azo free dye chemicals & latest scientific dyeing method of Central Silk Board, it is
possible to reach Zero Defect Zero effect scheme announced by Prime Minister of India and to get
recognition of India Handloom Brand. This step would help in enhancing the acceptability of Arni Silk
saree in India and abroad, creating opportunity to have good earning and better standard of living for
Arni weavers.

The present cluster of Arni weavers has got the greatest responsibility of handing over pollution free and
better groundwater sources to the next generation and to achieve this purpose, it is very essential to
have an exclusive Arni Silk Park with CETP facility.

27
VARIOUS TALENT HUNTING AND PROMOTIONAL ACTIVITIES WITH GOVERNMENT PARTICIPATION

PRATHAN MANTI KAUSHAL VIKAS YOJANA (PMKVY) – Recognition of Prior Learning (RPL)

Weaver to Entrepreneur approach:

Prime Minister Mr. Narendra Modi has announced PMKVY scheme – to identify the locally available
talented weavers who have skill in weaving traditional products - for giving them training- to make
them eligible for certificate and also financial assistance with subsidy, under Mudra Scheme. Those
weavers who undergo RPL training are maturing as small entrepreneurs.

Under the Skill Development Scheme of Government of India, for the past 5 years, Arni Silk cluster has
been helping the local weavers to improve their skill further and also to fill up the knowledge/talent gap
if any and to introduce different skill found in other states to our weavers to adapt and adopt for
improvement. Out of 25000 weavers available, so far training and RPL certification has been given to
approx 5000 weavers.

After getting skill improvement training under PMKVY/RPL when weavers were evaluated, only Arni and
Kanchipuram weavers were found eligible to secure Jacquard Weaver Handloom certificate and the
weavers from other states were found eligible for Two Shaft Handloom Weaver certificate.

Shri R G Paneerselvam currently associated with Arni Silk Cluster (Former Director of IIHT, Varanasi)
devised syllabus for Technical Skill Council training under RPL for topics like Jacquard Weaver Handloom,
Silk Saree Designer, Job role etc.

TRAINING OF TRAINERS (TOT):

Under this TOT Scheme, 20 talented persons from local weaving field would be chosen to be trained by
an EXPERT with an aim to fine-tune their knowledge and talent in their own field. On evaluating their
improved skill in imparting training to others, these trainers would train other local aspirants in the
following topics. As of now, the Select 4 topics of current relevance are:

Jacquard Weaver Handloom (TSC/Q7306)

Jacquard Harness Builder (TSC/7502)
Textile Designer – Handloom Jacquard (TSC/Q7403)
Card Puncher (Automatic Machine) (TSC/Q7401)

28
Under the TOT Scheme, Expert Trainers Shri R G Paneerselvam (Former Director IIHT Varanasi) trained
trainers in Handloom Jacquard weaving & Jacquard Falls binding method and Shri B Krishnamoorthy
(National Award Winner in Silk saree designing) trained on topics Designing & Punching cards to the
select design. Mr.Senthilkumar Ponvel, Corporate Tainer at 360 * Academy imparted training on topics
like Leadership, Team Work, Communication Skill and Time Management.

Arni Silk Cluster is the lone RPL Facilitator in the entire country to enhance the Teaching skill of 20
Trainers. Same team, who shaped up training at Arni, helped the aspirants of Kanchipuram Silk cluster.

INAUGURATION OF RPL TRAINING SESSIONS:

On 18.01.2017, inauguration of PMKVY-RPL training sessions were presided by Shri K Sivakumar, MD,
RmKV Silks Private Limited. Dr J V Rao, CEO, TSC, (Textile Skill Council) inaugurated the function .Other
dignitaries who graced the inaugural function were Mr K M Abdul Kader, Scientist-D CSTRI, Bangalore,
Mr K Raghu, Joint Director, SCTH-CSB, Kanchipuram, Mr.Vishesh Natyal, Director (SZ)WSC, Chennai,
Mr.R G Paneerselvam, Former Director, IIHT Varaasi, Mr. Karthikeyan,DD-WSC, Kanchipuram and
Mr.Senthilkumar, AD-Handloom and Textiles, Tiruvannamalai. More than 1000 weavers attended the
function and the wise coverage given in the locals about the RPL launch created positive awareness.

NSDC, in their official Twitter shared the Picture woven on silk depicted during RPL training session
inauguration. Tweeted message contained salutation to the extraordinary skill of Tamil weavers, in
appreciation of the supreme quality of craftsmanship brought out on pure silk.

Handloom weaver Shri Ramanathan, after attending the training, shared his views and the same was
video documented and tweeted by MSDE and tagged with the Hon’ble Prime Minister of India. This is
great recognition for handloom weavers.

Mr. Rajiv Pratap Rudy, Minister for MSDE shared the photos of the training sessions conducted by Arni
cluster and twitter tagged the same to Hon’ble Prime Minister Shri Narendra Modi. This act encourages
the Skill Development activities and great recognition for Arni Silk cluster.

On 8th March, in commemoration of Women’s Day, an exclusive training session for women weavers
were conducted and picture of this inaugural function was tweeted by NSDC in their official site, in
recognition of upcoming women weavers.

PMKVY-RPL CERTIFICATION FUNCTION:

Authorized Officials of Textile Sector Skill Council (TSC) which functions under Textile Ministry evaluated
the weavers who attended the RPL training and accordingly the PMKVY-RPL Certificates were issued to

29
those qualified weavers. The leading dignitaries who graced the function and shared their experience
with weavers were:

Padmashree Dr Nalli Kuppusmy Chettiar, MD, Nalli Group

Shri P C Jeyarama Chettiar, MD, Sree Kumaran Stores
Shri K Sivakumar, MD, RmKV Group
Shri S Ramesh, MD, Pothys Group

Special invitees Shri K M Abdul Kader, Scientist-D, CSTRI, Bangalore & Shri R G Paneerselvam, Former
Director, IIHT, Varanasi explained the role of Central Silk Board and special scheme available for the
development of weavers and about the services extended by weavers service centers. Dailies covered
about the Certificates issuing function and articles in appreciation of the weavers.

On 22 07.2017 at TDS Mahal, Onnupuram – Function on completion of RPL training was conducted and
Dr J V Rao, CEO, Textile Skill Council issued the certificates. He also explained about Mudra Scheme,
eligibility to apply for financial assistance and details of subsidy available. Shri N Manickavasagam, ED,
RmKV Group admired the contribution of Skill India Scheme and also appreciated the efforts of
traditional weavers. Shri R G Paneerselvam, Former Director, IIHT, Varanasi and Shri K M Abdul Kader,
Scientist- D, CSTRI, Bangalore also participated and graced the function.

Information sharing:: Details of RPL Training classes conducted, RPL Evaluation process & the views
expressed by the participants in the RPL classes were shared through social media like Facebook & You
tube, so that the skill and contribution of weavers are made known to the rest of the World.

Corona pandemic has really affected the continuity of RPL classes for the recent past two years and on
normalcy resumption and Government deregulations, RPL training classes and certification process
would be restarted.

National Handloom Day is celebrated as a mark of recognizing and rewarding weavers and their
contribution and the same being organized by Central Silk Board, Weavers Service Centers, Officials of
Handloom & cloth yarn Department and Silk Saree producers & traders.

30
31