Lecture 14

24-02-2020
Twill Weave
Twill weave is characterized by diagonal line in

the fabric which is created by the floats of the
ends or picks.
Twill Weave
Based on the
prominence of warp
or weft floats, twill
weaves are classified
as follows.
Warp faced: 2/1, 3/1,

3/ 2
Weft faced: 1/2, 1/3,

2/3
Balanced twill: 2/2, 3/

3, 2/1 / 1/2
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Twill Weave
In warp faced twill, the floats of ends predominate
over that of picks.
In contrast, the floats of picks predominate over that

of ends in weft faced twill.
In case of balanced twill, the floats of ends and picks

are equal.
Twill Weave
Twill weave has lesser interlacements than the plain
weave. Thus the crimp in yarns for twill weave will be
lower than that of plain weave.
For equivalent fabrics, 3/1 twill will give higher

tearing strength than followed by 2/1 twill and plain.
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Pointed Twill
There is no continuous line. However, the twill lines
change directions at specified intervals and thus
create pointed effect on the fabric.
Pointed Twill
The 4th end is considered as the mirror line and the
design is reversed such that the interlacement
pattern for the ends 5, 6 and 7 becomes identical
with those of ends 3, 2 and 1, respectively.
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Angle of Twill
The angle made by the twill line with the horizontal
direction (weft direction) is known as angle of twill or
twill angle
It is dependent on pick spacing, end spacing and

move number of the design.
Angle of Twill
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Satin and Sateen Weaves

Satin and sateen weaves are characterized by the
following features:
Only one binding point in each end and pick within

the repeat
No continuous twill line
Smooth appearance

Satin weave is warp faced whereas sateen weave
weft faced.
The fabrics have very smooth and lustrous

appearance which is created by the long floats of
either ends or picks.
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To make the effect of the warp floats more prominent,

following steps are adopted.
Use of coarser warp threads than the weft threads
Use of higher ends per inch (epi) than the (ppi)

For the construction of sateen weave, a feasible
move number is chosen.
Using this move number, only those points are

marked on the point paper where the end is floating
over the pick.
Sateen weave (weft faced) can be converted to

satin weave (warp faced) by interchanging the
crosses with blanks and vice versa.
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For a seven-end sateen weave, probable move
numbers are 1, 2, 3, 4, 5 and 6.

But, move number 1 and 6 (n-1, where n is the repeat
size of the weave) produce twill weaves.
Only move numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5 produce valid

sateen weaves.
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If move number is 1 or n-1 then twill weave is produced.
If a six-end sateen weave is designed with move numbers of 2,

3 or 4, then following interlacement pattern will be produced
But, there are certain ends without any interlacement.
Therefore, 6 end regular sateen (or satin) weave is not feasible
Rules for Making Sateen Weave

1. Move number 1 and (n-1) cannot be used as twill
weaves are produced.
2. Move number and repeat size of the design

should not have any common factor.
Eg. 6 end sateen does not follow both the rules
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Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb
Honeycomb weave
shows prominent
diamond shapes on
the fabrics created
by the long floats of
ends.
Honeycomb weave
having a repeat size
of 8×8
Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb
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Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno

Some of the ends have
frequent interlacement
whereas the other ends
have long floats.
The fabric shows small

holes created by the
grouping of threads.
A mock leno weave having

a repeat size of 10×10
Only four healds are

needed
Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno
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Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back

Similarity with Mock
leno.
Top-right and bottom-

left corners are having
similar interlacement
pattern like Mock leno.
However, the remaining

two quadrants have
plain weave like
interlacement pattern.
A 10×10 Huck-a-back
design.
Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back
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24-02-2020

Twill weave is characterized by diagonal line in

Warp faced: 2/1, 3/1,

Weft faced: 1/2, 1/3,

Balanced twill: 2/2, 3/

In contrast, the floats of picks predominate over that

In case of balanced twill, the floats of ends and picks

For equivalent fabrics, 3/1 twill will give higher

It is dependent on pick spacing, end spacing and

Satin and Sateen Weaves

Only one binding point in each end and pick within

No continuous twill line

Satin and Sateen Weaves

The fabrics have very smooth and lustrous

Satin and Sateen Weaves

To make the effect of the warp floats more prominent,

Use of coarser warp threads than the weft threads

Use of higher ends per inch (epi) than the (ppi)

Satin and Sateen Weaves

Using this move number, only those points are

Sateen weave (weft faced) can be converted to

Satin and Sateen Weaves

Satin and Sateen Weaves

Only move numbers 2, 3, 4 and 5 produce valid

Satin and Sateen Weaves

If a six-end sateen weave is designed with move numbers of 2,

But, there are certain ends without any interlacement.

Therefore, 6 end regular sateen (or satin) weave is not feasible

Rules for Making Sateen Weave

2. Move number and repeat size of the design

Eg. 6 end sateen does not follow both the rules

Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb

Some Fancy Weaves:Honeycomb

Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno

The fabric shows small

A mock leno weave having

Only four healds are

Some Fancy Weaves: Mock Leno

Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back

Top-right and bottom-

However, the remaining

Some Fancy Weaves: Huck-a-Back

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