Acadia Original Brochure
Acadia Original Brochure
Acadia Original Brochure
95
2019/2020
YOUR COMPLETE GUIDE TO THE PARKS
ACADIA
NATIONAL PARK
ACTIVITIES • SIGHTSEEING • DINING • LODGING
TRAILS • HISTORY • MAPS • MORE
OFFICIAL
PA R T N E R S
WELCOME
SO TASTY EVERYONE WILL WANT A BITE. Welcome to Acadia National Park, Woodrow Wilson. But it was countless
S:7.375”
T:8.375”
located on the rock- bound Maine is - stewardship-minded individuals at the turn
land of Mount Deser t. Here you will of the 20th century that created the first
find soaring granite cliffs butting up eastern national park, recognizing its sin-
against sand and cobblestone beaches. gular beauty and ecological value and the
Glacier-carved mountains rear up from need to protect it in perpetuity.
the sea, cupping deep lakes, while The National Park Service (NPS) pro-
m e a d ow l a n d s , m a r sh e s a n d d e ns e tects this unique resource and its visitors.
forests permeate the landscape. Every- This American Park Network guide to Aca-
where, the ocean makes its presence felt, dia National Park is provided to help plan
whether by sight, sound or smell. your visit to the park. It is made possible
Acadia National Park was first es - by the sponsors whose messages appear
tablished as Sieur de Monts National inside. For more park information, call
Monument on July 8, 1916, by President (207) 288-3338.
FUN FACTS
Established: Since it opened in 1916, Popular Activities: Visitors can enjoy
Acadia National Park has boasted a num- naturalist-guided walks and talks, bik-
ber of firsts. It was the first eastern na- ing, fishing, carriage rides, boat cruises,
tional park, and perhaps more significantly, hiking, kayaking, cross-country skiing and
it was the first national park whose land ice fishing.
was donated entirely by private citizens. Bicycling: Most of Acadia National Park’s
©2019 Preferred Brands International. All rights reserved.
Land Area: Acadia encompasses more paved roads and 45 miles of its picturesque
than 49,000 acres, the vast majority of carriage roads are open to bicycles.
it on Mount Desert Island (pronounced Hiking: More than 125 miles of hiking
like “dessert”). trails and 45 miles of carriage roads weave
Highest Elevation: The summit of Ca- through the park.
dillac Mountain at 1,530 feet. Camping: There are more than 500
Mileage: The park has 158 miles of campsites in the park.
hiking trails, and 45 miles of carriage Lodging: You can find a variety of
roads with 16 stone bridges. accommodations and a total of 4,500
Plants and Animals: About 165 spe- rooms surrounding the park on Mount
cies of native plants, about 60 species Desert Island.
TASTY BITE® is all-natural
and perfect for the trail. Look of land and marine mammals, and more V i s i tor s: More than 3.5 million
for the yellow pouch in the than 150 breeding species of birds call people visit the park every year to expe-
international food aisle.* the park home. rience the beautiful coastal landscape.
tastybite.com
*Keep wildlife wild;
Don’t feed the animals.
| A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 1
WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
CONTENTS
Unforgettable Adventures.
Welcome 1
American Park Network ® publishes OhRanger.
com, Oh, Ranger! ParkFinder™ and Oh, Ranger!®
guides —a collection of visitor guides for public What’s New! 4
lands all across America — and operates Oh,
Ranger! Wi-Fi in parks and public lands. American Plan Your Visit 6
Park Network is an official partner of the National
Forest Foundation, National Parks Conservation
Association, National Fish and Wildlife Important Numbers 10
Foundation, American Hiking Society and the
Student Conservation Association. Park Regulations & Safety 15
Publisher & Editor-in-Chief
MARK J. SAFERSTEIN
Who’s Who at the Park 17
Associate Publisher & Executive Editor History & Culture 18
Joel S. Saferstein
EDITORIAL / PRODUCTION
Centerfold Map
Editors: Monette A. Bailey, Daniel Johnson,
Jacqueline Kehoe, Amanda McConnon, Preservation 27
Julie McCool, Danielle Taylor, Wendy Willis
Proofreader: Scot t Tabor Mount Desert Island 29
Production Manager: Mario Arce
Graphic Designers: Karla Aldana, Dennisse Cruz,
Tatiana Hurtado, Yamileth Recinos
Things To Do 31
DIGITAL Walking & Hiking 38
Technology Manager: Scott Falconer
Feel-Good Savings.
Business Development: Randy Burton, Mary Pat
Kaleth, Pat Keane, Craig King, Kristi Rummel Nature & Wildlife 42
Operations Manager: Matthew Price
American Park Network Photography 46
41 East 11th Street, 11th Floor, NY, NY 10003
If You Only Have a Day 48
Heed the call of adventure with great insurance coverage. @OhRanger
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Oh, Ranger! and American Park Network
Cover Photo: Boardwalk trail around Jordan Pond
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Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ installation/sponsorship 3
wifi@americanparknetwork.com
WHAT’S NEW!
WE’RE ALL CONNECTED
STUNNING
and provide an hour’s worth of peace and quiet and overcome the obstacles that face us all…
to carry out into the world. What theme would
capture their imagination and neatly underscore
and SURREAL
our human need for connectedness?
When teaching, I try to use examples that
marry ancient tradition with contemporary
4 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK |
PLAN YOUR VISIT
GETTING TO ACADIA Route 3 in the town of Seal Harbor. Other
Acadia is located two-thirds of the way sections of the park are reachable from
up the Maine coast, approximately 164 various public byways on Mount Desert
miles from Portland, 270 miles from Bos- Island. The Schoodic Peninsula section
ton and 475 miles from New York City. of the park is located off Route 186, near
By Car: From Bangor (47 miles from the the town of Winter Harbor. Isle au Haut is
park), take U.S. 1A south from Bangor to Ells- easy to get to by mail boat from the village
worth, then take Route 3 east to the Hulls of Stonington.
Cove park entrance. From Portland (164 miles By Air: The Hancock County-Bar Harbor
from the park), take Route 1 north along the Airport (BHB), located on Route 3 in Tren-
coast to Ellsworth, then take Route 3 east to ton, is served by Cape Air, with direct con-
the Hulls Cove park entrance. nections to Boston.
There are four entrances to the popu- You must rent a car and drive to Acadia
lar Park Loop Road section of Acadia from the closest major airports, Bangor In-
on Mount Desert Island: the Hulls Cove ternational Airport (45 miles away) or Port-
Entrance, located on Route 3; the Cadil- land International Jetport (164 miles away).
lac Mountain Entrance, located on the Portland offers service from most U.S.
outskirts of Bar Harbor on Route 233; metropolitan areas on American, Delta,
the Sieur de Monts Entrance, located Elite, Frontier, JetBlue, Southwest and
on Route 3 south of Bar Harbor; and the United. Bangor offers service on Allegiant,
Stanley Brook Entrance, also located on Delta, American Airlines and United.
6 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK |
PLA N YOU R VI SI T
By Train: There is no passenger rail ser- (207) 288-3338 and press zero for more
vice to Acadia National Park. information about road closures.
B y B u s : G rey h o un d an d C o n c o rd
Coach Lines offer bus service between ENTRANCE FEES
B oston and B ang or ye ar- round . F or A fee is required to visit any part of the
more information, call Greyhound at park. The $30-per-vehicle fee is good for
(800) 894-3355 or visit greyhound.com; a seven-day pass. An annual Acadia Park
or call Concord at (800) 639-3317 or visit Pass costs $55 and is good for a year.
concordcoachlines.com. Fees for visitors on a motorcycle are $25,
By Local Transportation: Downeast $15 for those on foot or bicycle, and $15
Tr a n s p o r t a t i o n r u n s y e a r- r o u n d o n per person for vehicles with 16 or more
M o u nt D e s e r t I s l a n d a n d b et we e n passengers. Acadia is one of a select few
Bar Harbor and Ellsworth; please call national parks chosen to participate in a Presented by
(207) 667-5796 or visit downeasttrans.org pilot program selling seven-day or annual
for more information. entrance passes online. To buy your pass
By Ferry: Isle au Haut may be reached online, go to www.yourpassnow.com.
via mail boat from Stonington on Deer
Isle. Reser vations are not taken and EVERY KID IN A PARK
AD
the num b er of d ay v isi to r s all owe d To help engage and create our next gen-
on the island is limite d; p le ase c all eration of park visitors, supporters and
(207) 367-5193 or visit isleauhaut.com advocates, the Obama Administration, in
for more information. The state- owned partnership with the Federal Land Manage-
Swan’s Island Ferry provides year-round ment agencies, launched the Every Kid in
ser vice from Bass Harbor to Swan’s a Park initiative. The immediate goal is to
Island; for more information, please call provide an opportunity for each and every
(207) 244-3254 or visit swansisland.org. fourth grade student across the country to
experience their federal public lands and
GETTING AROUND ACADIA waters in person.
Travel through the park by automobile, All kids in the fourth grade have access
bicycle or foot. Taxis are available in Bar to their own Every Kid in a Park pass at
Harbor, and rental cars are available at the Everykidinapark.gov. This pass admits
aforementioned airports. the pass owner and any accompanying
The recently-upgraded Island Explorer passengers in a private noncommercial ve-
shuttle runs on the summer schedule from hicle to the park. You can obtain the pass
June 23 to August 26 and the fall schedule by visiting everykidinapark.gov and you
from August 27 to Columbus Day. See the must print it and present it at the park. The
enclosed map for more information. Every Kid in a Park pass is valid until Au-
gust 31, 2019.
HOURS OF OPERATION
The park is open year-round, 24 hours WEATHER
daily; however, most park roads are closed Acadia’s coastal location makes for
December 1 through April 14. Before driv- ever-changing weather patterns, including
ing through the park in the winter, call days of brilliant sunshine and occasional
8 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK |
P L A N YOUR VI S I T P L A N Y O U R V ISIT
IMPORTANT NUMBERS BAR HARBOR CHAMBER Ser vice Animals: Visitors may use
OF COMMERCE se r v i c e anim als w hil e v isi tin g p ar k
General Park Information
(207) 288-3338 The Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce sites and programs. Please refer to the
nps.gov/acad
operates two visitor centers near Acadia Na- “Park Regulations & Safet y” chapter
Emergencies 911 tional Park. Stop by the Acadia Welcome for more information.
Center, located at 1201 Bar Harbor Rd. in Swimming: Echo Lake Beach offers
Lost and Found (207) 288-8791
Trenton, or the Downtown Welcome Cen- wheelchair access via a boardwalk. A long
Weather Information (207) 667-8910 ter, located at 2 Cottage St. in Downtown set of steps bars entrance to Sand Beach.
Bar Harbor. The welcome centers offer park Tours: Boat tours are accessible to
Camping (207) 288-3338
and regional information, as well as free wheelchair users, but only with assistance.
Bar Harbor Area Chamber of Commerce (207) 288-5103 Oh, Ranger! Wi-Fi™ . For information, call Carriages at Wildwood Stables can accom-
barharborinfo.com or acadiainfo.com (800) 345-4617
(800) 345-4617 or visit barharborinfo.com. modate wheelchairs.
Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce
(207) 276-5040
mountdesertchamber.org SPECIAL SERVICES -
Southwest Harbor / Tremont Chamber of Commerce
Park facilities and activities that are LODGING & DINING
(207) 244-9264 wheelchair-accessible are marked by the
acadiachamber.com
wheelchair symbol ( - ). Please see the Accommodations are not available within
“Federal Recreational Lands Passes” chart the park boundaries, but inns, motels, bed
mornings when the island is wrapped in runs Hulls Cove Visitor Center, located in this chapter for more information about and breakfasts, and campgrounds are plen-
a soft blanket of fog. Acadia’s proxim- just off Route 3 at the start of the Park the free Access Pass, which waives en- tiful around Mount Desert Island.
ity to water also takes the edge off the Loop Road. The Hulls Cove Visitor Cen- trance fees for U.S. citizens or permanent T he only restaurant in the park is
summer heat and the winter chill. During ter typically opens at 8 a.m. in July and residents with permanent disabilities. Jordan Pond House, famous for its pop-
July and August, high temperatures usu- August. This two -story building houses Camping: Blackwoods Campground overs and afternoon tea. See the related
ally range between 70 and 80°F, often an expanded bookshop, restrooms (open has 12 wheelchair-accessible sites, each article in this chapter for more details.
accompanied by a sea breeze. In spring af ter hours), and information booths. with compacted gravel walkways leading Neighb oring communities also of-
and fall, expect highs in the 50s and 60s. Visitor passes are also sold here. - to the fire grill, picnic table, restrooms and fer great dining oppor tunities, where
In November, the winter season sets in At Hulls Cove, you can shop for books, the central amphitheater. Seawall Camp- menus feature regional specialties made
and persists through March, when day- maps and posters and sign up for pro - ground has 14 accessible camping sites, from fresh Maine blueberries and, of
time temperatures hover in the 30s and grams like bir watching or tidepool walks. including drive-in, RV and group. course, Maine lobster!
may dip to zero at night. Always be pre- A full schedule of ranger-led activities, Carriage Roads: The carriage roads For more information about lodging and
pared for changes in weather and dress including children’s programs, can be that wind through the park are closed to all dining, contact the chambers of commerce
in layers. found at nps.gov/acad. motorized traffic, including eBikes, and are listed in the chart in this chapter.
The Thompson Island Informa- ideal for wheelchair users.
VISITOR CENTERS tion Center, located at the entrance Picnics: A wheelchair-accessible picnic LODGING
Spring and winter park services will be to Mount Desert Island on Route 3, is site is available at the Fabbri, Thompson Is- When it comes to putting a roof over
offered at the Bar Harbor Chamber of jointly run by the NPS and local cham- land, Bear Brook, Frazer Point, Pretty Marsh your head, Mount Deser t Island has
Commerce at 2 Cottage St. in Bar Har- b er s of c o mmerc e. T he c enter p ro - and Seawall picnic areas, where restrooms something for everyone. Altogether, the
bor. Visitors can also find spring ranger v id es lo d ging and dining d et ails for are also wheelchair-accessible. Limited ac- island has 4,500 rooms. Choose from a
services at the Sier de Monts Nature all the island communities as well as cess is available at other picnic areas. romantic bed and breakfast to a state-of-
Center located on the one-way section p ark infor mation. V isitor p asses are Publications: The NPS publishes a the-art hotel with conference facilities.
of Park Loop Road. sold here. It is open daily from April 21 wheelchair access guide to the park. It is There are seaside lodges and roadside
During the summer season, there are through October 15; hours vary. available at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center as motels, pint-size inns, full-scale resorts,
two visitor centers at Acadia. The NPS well as on the park website. guesthouses and cottages.
10 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 11
P L A N YOUR VI S I T P L A N Y O U R V ISIT
12 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 13
PARK REGULATIONS
PLA N YOU R VI SI T
14 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 15
WHO’S WHO
P AR K R E G ULA T I ONS & SAFETY WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
Dawnland, LLC
dead/downed wood from elsewhere in the KEEP WILDLIFE WILD CHAMBERS OF COMMERCE
park. Only build fires in designated fire rings Don’t feed, chase or harass wildlife. Helpful information is available at
or fireplaces in campgrounds and picnic ar- Please do not approach animals, and be the following chambers of commerce:
eas. It is against Maine state law to bring sure to throw your trash in proper recep- Bar Harbor Chamber of Commerce,
firewood into Maine from out of state. tacles. If animals begin to associate peo- 2 Cottage St., Bar Harbor, ME 04609,
ple with food, they may lose their fear of (800) 288 - 5103, barharborinfo.com;
WEAPONS AND FIREWORKS humans and consequently lose their abil- Mount Desert Chamber of Commerce
Firearms regulations vary by park. Check ity to find food on their own. (representing Hall Quarry, Northeast Har-
with the National Park Service or the park bor, Otter Creek, Pretty Marsh, z and
you plan to visit before your trip for most TAKE ONLY PICTURES Southwest Harbor/Tremont Chamber
up-to-date information. The possession, destruction, removal or of Commerce, 329 Main St., Southwest
The possession or use of firecrackers or disturbance of park property or natural and Jordan Pond House, operated by Dawnland, has H arbor, M E 0 4 6 79; (207) 24 4 ‑ 9 26 4,
fireworks is prohibited. cultural resources is prohibited. been serving popovers and tea since the 1890s. acadiachamber.com.
16 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 17
H IST O R Y & C U L T U R E
HISTORY & CULTURE traveled, it gathered up large rocks—er- The people who are now known as
ratics—and carried them considerable dis- the Wabanaki inhabited the island at the
tances. Examples of these boulders can be time the first Europeans made contact
Some 500 million years ago, what we LAND OF ICE seen at the summit of Cadillac and South in the 1500s. Originally, it was believed
now know as Mount Desert Island began The brute force of the continental Bubble mountains. the Wabanakis traveled to Pemotonet
taking shape on the ocean floor. Erosion glaciers that blanketed New England Climatic changes eventually halted the or “range of mountains,” as they called
swept sediments—sand, silt and mud, two to three million years ago carved out glaciers’ progress around 18,000 years the island, by birch - bark canoe from
and later volcanic ash and seaweed—from many of the park’s loveliest features, includ- ago. As the ice sheet receded, the ocean their winter homes near the Penobscot
the North American continental plate out ing Jordan and Long ponds, Echo and Eagle advanced, flooding the valleys and cutting River’s headwaters. The discover y of
to sea. There, they slowly amassed and lakes and stunning Somes Sound, a deep, the island off from the mainland. It is now middens that included clams harvested
hardened into what would become some narrow inlet surrounded by steep cliffs. the second-largest island off the east coast in winter provided evidence that some
of the island bedrock. The imprint of the last glacier to pass of the continental United States. Native Americans spent winter on Mount
Magma, or molten rock, transformed through Acadia is the one that remains Today, the sea remains the key agent of Desert Island as well. During the sum-
some of this sedimentary rock as it rose most visible today. It advanced out of Can- change at Acadia. It buffets the steep face mer months, they would hunt, fish and
through the Earth’s crust. The overlying ada around 100,000 years ago, crept slowly of Otter Cliffs each day while polishing the gather berries near Somes Sound. More
bedrock was shattered, and in some across New England, and eventually spread pink and blue-gray cobblestones at Little recently, archeologists have concluded
places consumed, by the magma as it 150 miles out to sea. Hunters Beach and depositing fine shell that the Wabanakis may have had settle-
made contact. As the glaciers passed through the val- particles at Newport Cove, the only sand ments both inland and on the coast.
In other areas, the mass of magma leys, they scoured away the sides of the beach on Acadia’s coastline. The history of these early island resi-
slowly cooled to form granite that is ex- mountains causing steep grades and cliffs dents is told at the Abbe Museum, located
posed today because the overlying layers (including the Precipice Trail section of MAN ON MOUNT DESERT just off the Park Loop Road near Sieur de
have eroded. Champlain Mountain). As the ice sheet Ancient native peoples made their home Monts Spring, and the expanded Abbe Mu-
on Mount Desert Island long before Euro- seum, located on Mount Desert Street in
NPS
pean explorers ventured across the Atlan- Bar Harbor.
tic. Few records of their presence remain:
stone tools, pottery, fishing implements EUROPEAN EXPLORERS
and middens (large refuse piles of shells, I n 15 2 4 , t h e F l o re n t i n e ex p l o re r
which archeologists estimate are between Giovanni da Verrazano arrived in the re-
3,000 and 5,000 years old). gion that is now Maine and the Canadian
Maritimes. He is credited with christening
NPS
the area with the name L’Acadie, or Arca-
dia. Some historians believe it to be a Wa-
banaki word; others say it is a corruption of
Arcadia , an equally scenic and inspiring re-
gion of ancient Greece. Eighty years later,
in 1604, the French explorer Samuel de
Champlain gave Pemotonet the name:
l’Isles des Monts-déserts , which is now
known as Mount Desert Island. Champlain,
who crossed the Atlantic 29 times and
later founded Quebec, is believed to have
George B. Dorr and friends. Dorr spent decades and much of his own wealth tirelessly working to George B. Dorr (far right), worked with local run aground at Otter Point, where he met
protect and preserve Acadia for public use. environmentalists to develop Acadia’s trail system. members of the Wabanaki tribe.
18 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 19
H IS T ORY & C U LT U RE H IST O R Y & C U L T U R E
NPS
A party of French Jesuits, who may have NATIONAL PARK STATUS au Haut, an island that is about 15 miles
settled at the mouth of Somes Sound in A Maine politician once remarked, “the southwest of Mount Desert Island, in
1613, were also warmly greeted by the portable sawmill created Acadia National Penobscot Bay.
Wabanaki. The priests intended to estab- Park.” Concerned that this tool of prog- Next to George Dorr, Acadia has had
lish a mission there but were soon pushed ress would cut a swath through their island no better friend than industrialist and phi-
out by English explorers who were deter- paradise, a group of summer residents, lanthropist John D. Rockefeller, Jr. He
mined to expand northward from their set- led by the president of Harvard University, not only donated more than 10,000 acres
tlements in Virginia. For the next century, Charles W. Eliot, formed a public land of parkland (including the stretch of coast
the French and British would struggle for trust in 1901 to protect the island from between Thunder Hole and Otter Cliffs),
control of Acadia. In 1759, the British finally uncontrolled development. The group had but he was also responsible for one of
prevailed when they defeated the French the foresight to appoint George Bucknam Acadia’s most picturesque features, the 45
in Quebec, but not before a young French Dorr as its director. A member of a highly miles of broken-stone carriage roads that
nobleman laid claim to a large section of regarded Boston family that had made wind through its sylvan interior. In 1913,
the Maine coast. Sieur de Antoine de its fortune in textiles, Dorr would spend alarmed by the prospect of a park overrun
la Mothe Cadillac stopped long enough the next 43 years (and much of his own by automobiles, Rockefeller began building
on Mount Desert to lend his name to the wealth) tirelessly working to protect and 16-foot-wide roads connected by a series
island’s highest mountain before moving preserve Acadia for public use. of 16 bridges crafted from local granite and
on to found the Midwest city of Detroit. “Summercators” enjoy swimming in Echo Lake The land trust’s first notable acquisi- cobblestones. Today, the roads are enjoyed
in 1934.
tion was the chiseled headland known as by equestrians, hikers, bicyclists and, dur-
THE FIRST SETTLERS “The Beehive,” in 1908, followed soon ing winter, cross-country skiers. Carriage
Many of Mount Desert Island’s towns Desert. Then came journalists and sports- by the summit of 1,5 30 -foot Cadillac rides are available through Wildwood Sta-
bear the names of the first set tlers, men, drawn by the promise of the vast, Mountain. By 1916, Dorr secured national bles. Refer to the “Things to Do” chapter
including Abraham Somes, a sailor from unspoiled wilderness Cole and Church monument status for the trust, and, in for more information.
Massachusetts, who, with his family, had depicted. Early visitors, known as 1919, it became the first eastern national
settled on the island in 1762. Because of “rusticators” or “summercators,” bunked park. As a result of the amicable terms FIRE!
its proximity to sailing routes, the western with local families. By 18 80, Bar Har- between the United States and France at In 1947, a great fire broke out on Mount
side of the island was settled first. Later bor boasted 30 hotels and a national that time, it was named Lafayette National Desert Island, consuming some 17,000
arrivals gravitated to the island’s eastern reputation as a summer resort. Park. Dorr was appointed the first superin- acres and burning for 10 days before it
half, where the soil proved better for farm- That reputation was sealed soon after, tendent, a position he held until his death was brought under control. No one knows
ing. Then known as Eden, Bar Harbor when America’s most socially prominent in 1946. how the fire was started, but some of the
was incorporated as a town in 1796. families—the Rockefellers, Morgans, Over the next 10 years, the park doubled driest conditions on record for the area
By 1820, most island inhabitants were Fords, Astors, Vanderbilts and Pulit- in size, thanks in part to the acquisition contributed to the quickness and ferocity
engaged in fishing, shipbuilding, lumbering zers — began summering in Bar Harbor of the breathtaking Schoodic Peninsula, with which it spread. More than 10,000 of
or farming. This time period is well docu- and nearby Northeast and Seal harbors. which faces Mount Desert Island across the acres that burned were in Acadia Na-
mented at the Islesford Historical Mu- They built magnificent summer “cot- Frenchman Bay. The family who donated tional Park.
seum, located on Little Cranberry Island tages” of palatial dimensions, entertained the 2,000-acre peninsula had but one small The blaze also swept down Bar Harbor’s
and accessible by cruise and mail boats. lavishly and forever altered the rustic stipulation: Being residents of England, “Millionaire’s Row,” destroying more than
character of the island. Ironically, these they objected to the park’s Francophile 60 grand summer cottages and bringing
SUMMERCATORS same summer colonists also helped pre- name. Dorr arranged to change the name the uppercrust resort era to a close. Some
B y m i d - c e n t u r y, a n e w i n d u s t r y serve the natural beauty of Mount Desert to Acadia National Park, a move that re- of the surviving cottages have been con-
emerged: tourism. First artists, such as Island. Acadia, the first eastern national quired an act of Congress. The park’s last verted into inns and bed-and-breakfasts.
the landscape painters Thomas Cole park, was created from land donated en- major acquisition came in 1943, with the Others remain private residences for a new
and Frederic Church, traveled to Mount tirely by private citizens. donation of 3,000 acres on unspoiled Isle generation of summercators.
20 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 21
SIG H T S T O SE E
SIGHTS TO SEE The shoreline section of Park Loop Road glaciers. The Beehive can be glimpsed from
is the most heavily traveled in Acadia, and Park Loop Road.
for good reason. The road offers marvelous Another feature you can see along
Acadia boasts varied and dramatic scen- dia National Park consists of the dazzling views of Frenchman Bay, as well as front- Park Loop Road is Thunder Hole, lo -
ery, including a coastline of chiseled granite, Schoodic Peninsula and several of f- row seats to the pitched battle between land cated midway between Great Head and
the ocean dotted with islands, 26 mountain shore islands, including Baker Island and and sea. Most of the road’s scenic highlights Otter Cliffs. Timing is everything here. As
peaks (that together constitute the high- remote Isle au Haut. can be seen by car. To experience them, wind-driven tides sweep into this narrow
est headlands along the eastern seaboard), however, get out and walk the rolling footpath granite channel, air becomes trapped, es-
close to a dozen glacial lakes and ponds, PARK LOOP ROAD that winds alongside Park Loop Road. caping with a thunderous report. At low tide
and Somes Sound, the only fiard (a smaller Many natural attractions are found along In this otherwise rock-bound park, Sand on a calm day, Thunder Hole is stubbornly
version of a fjord, a glacially carved, u- Park Loop Road, a 27-mile, two-lane thor- Beach is a graceful anomaly. Located at silent. Just south of Thunder Hole are Otter
shaped valley bordered by steep cliffs) in the oughfare that winds through the eastern Newport Cove, 10 miles from the visitor Cliffs, 100-foot pink granite buttresses rising
contiguous 48 states. half of Mount Desert Island. It is acces- center, this is the park’s only sand beach on straight out of the water.
In shape, Mount Desert Island resem- sible from Hulls Cove, Cadillac Mountain, the ocean. Swimming at Sand Beach is not Marked only by a simple set of wooden
bles a lobster claw. Many of Acadia’s best- Sieur de Monts and Stanley Brook en- for the faint of heart. Ocean temperatures stairs leading down to the water, Little
known attractions are on the eastern side trances. While you can drive the loop in seldom climb above 55ºF. Warmer waters Hunters Beach is often overlooked by mo-
of the “claw,” which is separated from under an hour, most visitors find that it for swimming can be found on the western torists in search of grander vistas. But this
the western side by Somes Sound. The takes at least half a day to take in all that side of the island at Echo Lake, Acadia’s other is one of Acadia’s most peaceful and shel-
park’s western half features several moun- this scenic route has to offer. Please re- beach site. tered spots, a steeply pitched cove lined
tains, numerous salt marshes and nature member: While the park is open year-round, A short hike inland from Sand Beach is entirely with cobblestones. These small, egg-
trails, and some of the best birdwatching Park Loop Road is mostly closed between the Beehive, a 520-foot-high mountain with shaped rocks were polished by the pounding
in New England. The remainder of Aca- December 1 and April 14. a honeycombed eastern face sculpted by surf (collecting is prohibited).
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Conserving Lands.
Transforming Lives.
Serve, support, learn more at
THESCA.ORG
Water rushing into Thunder Hole makes a striking sound that can be heard from a nearby
observation deck. Don’t get splashed!
22 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 23
Thompson Island Information Center
Hulls Cove Visitor Center
Park Headquarters
Cadillac Mountain Entrance
Bar Harbor
Sieur de Monts Entrance
Bear Brook
Overlook
Sand Beach
Thunder Hole
Otter Point
Islesford Historical Museum
Stanley Brook Entrance
Wildwood Stables
Jordan Pond House
Bubble Rock
Northeast Harbor
Echo Lake
Southwest Harbor
Bass Harbor Head Lighthouse
Bass Harbor
Bernard
Pretty Marsh
Schoodic Institute at Acadia
National Park
Let someone else do the driving for you! The Island Explorer bus service is a
fare-free, environmentally conscientious way to see the park. The shuttle runs
from late June through the Columbus Day holiday. For more information, refer to
the shuttle bus map in this guide, visit exploreacadia.com or call (207) 667-5796.
S IG HTS T O SEE SIG H T S T O SE E
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JORDAN POND AND THE BUBBLES and beyond that, much of Maine itself. Some
In a park dotted with glacier-carved ponds visitors arrive at Cadillac at dawn to see the
and lakes, Jordan Pond is perhaps the love- sun rise in one of the first places in the United
liest. Located on the western side of Park States. Others prefer the mountain’s equally
Loop Road, its waters are clear and cool. Its dazzling sunsets. Whenever they come, most
shores are flanked by Penobscot Mountain to visitors spend hours clambering over the
the west and Pemetic Mountain to the east, bald granite dome.
both accessible by hiking trails. The view that It can be very difficult to find parking at
sets Jordan Pond apart lies to the north, and Cadillac Mountain from 9:30 a.m. to 3 p.m.
rising from the shore are a pair of rounded and at sunrise and sunset. Ask rangers about
mountains, aptly named the Bubbles. other locations that are just as beautiful but
less crowded.
CADILLAC MOUNTAIN
Whether driving from Park Loop Road to SOMES SOUND
the top of its 1,530-foot summit or hiking up Neatly bisecting the eastern and west-
one of the trails, most visitors consider Cadil- ern halves of Mount Desert Island, Somes
lac Mountain the high point—both literally (rhymes with “homes”) Sound is home to the
and figuratively—of their trip to Acadia. Not only fiard, a smaller version of a fjord, in the
only is Cadillac the park’s highest peak, but contiguous 48 states. A more poetic meet- The waters of Jordan Pond are clear and cool. Rising from the shore are a pair of rounded mountains,
aptly named the Bubbles.
it is also the tallest mountain on the Atlantic ing of land and sea is hard to imagine. Steep
coast north of Brazil. On a clear day (visibility mountains line both sides of the sound, a nar- Route 198), which closely hugs the sound’s from the rocky, southernmost tip of Mount
is best during fall and winter), the panoramic row, 168-foot-deep gorge carved by glaciers. eastern shore. Desert Island, is one of the most photo-
views Cadillac commands are unparalleled. The best views of Somes Sound, other than graphed lighthouses on the East Coast.
Spread out below are island-dappled French- from a sailboat or Acadia Mountain, are from SEAWALL The light, which was built in 1858, marks
man and Blue Hill bays, the whole of the park, the southbound side of Sargeant Drive (off The western side of Mount Desert the entrance to Bass Harbor, and beyond
Island includes the more tranquil part of the it, Blue Hill Bay. Now fully automated and
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park. Less visited and congested, it also af- managed by the U.S. Coast Guard, it is
fords visitors wonderful views of Somes the only park lighthouse accessible by
Sound and the mountainous eastern portion car. The lighthouse is located on the west-
of the park. Located on a narrow stretch of ern side of the island, on Route 102A. Be
Route 102A, between a small pond and a prepared for heavy traffic during sunrise,
broad expanse of bay, Seawall faces the sunset, and in the middle of the day. Note:
Duck Islands and the Atlantic Ocean. This is RVs and buses are not allowed on the road
an ideal spot for watching many seabirds. to the lighthouse.
This side of the island is also home to Echo
Lake, a favorite spot for those who want to ISLE AU HAUT
fish, canoe, kayak, picnic and even swim. Fifteen miles southwest of Mount Desert
Visitors who camp overnight here are at the mouth of Penobscot Bay lies Isle au
treated to a spectacular sunrise over Great Haut, the most remote section of the park.
Cranberry Island. Accessible by a 45-minute mail boat ride
from the village of Stonington (no car ferries
The western side of Mount Desert Island includes the more tranquil part of the park. Visitors will find BASS HARBOR LIGHTHOUSE are available), Isle au Haut rewards those who
less congestion and wonderful views. Bass Harbor Head Light, which rises make the trip with hiking trails, spruce for-
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S IG HTS T O SEE WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
ests, cobblestone beaches and unobstructed Point. The point, which confronts the sea
PRESERVATION
views of the Atlantic. head-on, unprotected by any offshore is-
lands, fully merits the word spectacular.
SCHOODIC PENINSULA Full of sound and fury, wave after relent- “In wildness is the preservation of buses, which annually carries more than half
By comparison, Schoodic Peninsula less wave hurls itself at the shore, sending the earth.” a million passengers to and from the park
is a model of accessibility, located just plumes of ocean spray into the air—surely —Henry David Thoreau from mid-June to Columbus Day, reduce the
one hour by car from Bar Harbor, off one of Acadia’s most spellbinding sights. amount of pollutants and greenhouse gases
Route 186. Still, this 2,366-acre peninsula In 2002, the U.S. Naval Base on Sc- So wrote America’s great naturalist-philos- released into the air.
(Acadia’s only wedge of the mainland) hoodic closed and those 100 acres were opher more than a century ago. A frequent
does not attract as many visitors as Mount returned to the National Park Service, the visitor to Maine’s north woods, Thoreau well RESTORING ACADIA
Desert Island. original owner. The Schoodic Institute understood the healing powers of this vast, Fortunately, the notion of preservation is
Thus, visitors to Schoodic can freely at Acadia National Park has been es- virgin landscape. By preserving such wild- as old as the park itself. George Dorr, John D.
explore the six-mile park road (RVs are re- tablished there, the purpose of which is ness, he wrote, we are also ensuring our own Rockefeller, Jr., and the park’s other founders
stricted with the exception of the Schoodic to promote and facilitate education and re- survival—not just physically, but spiritually. were all conservationists working to protect
Woods Campground), a 440-foot headland, search that is consistent with the mission Every year, millions of visitors travel Mount Desert Island from the ravages of the
various hiking trails, eight miles of bike of the NPS. One of the programs taking to Acadia in search of the wildness Tho- sawmill and automobile. More than 35,000
paths and the area’s cobblestone beaches. place there is the Schoodic Education Ad- reau described, making it one of the top 10 acres were donated so that they might be
If a crowd collects anywhere, it is usually at venture, a three-day residential program for most visited national parks in the country. preserved for public use.
high tide at the rock ledge called Schoodic fifth through eighth graders. Such popularity has led to a pressing—and Progress has been made to restore
complex—dilemma faced by park officials; Acadia’s hiking trails and carriage roads.
SENTINELS OF THE SEA the more people who seek out Acadia’s spe- Acadia Trails Forever and the Carriage Road
cial beauty, the more endangered that beauty Endowment, established in partnership with
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PR E S E R VA T I ON WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
Friends of Acadia’s programs and partner- year period, the program allocated $6.5 mil-
MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
ships include the fare-free, low-emissions Island lion to trail reconstruction and $6.5 million
Explorer bus system; advocacy for additional in endowments to maintain Acadia’s
congressional funds; a revolving fund to protect 125-mile foot trail system and fund student Acadia National Park covers much of contemporary visitors will find inns, hotels,
privately held lands within park boundaries; and employment programs. Mount Desert Island. Most of the park is guesthouses, sidewalk cafés, formal res-
collaboration on a transportation management For more information, please con - preserved in its natural state, with commer- taurants and block after block of boutiques,
plan, viewable at nps.gov/acadiaplan. tact Friends of Acadia, P.O. Box 45, Bar cial activity taking place outside the park in specialty shops and galleries.
Visitors are encouraged to see the “Leave Harbor, ME 04609; (207) 288-3340, or surrounding communities. Busy little resort Bar H arbor is also home to such
No Trace” article in this chapter for other visit friendsofacadia.org. towns offer modern services, lodging, dining prestigious institutions as Ja c ks on
ways to help protect the park. spots, gift shops and antique stores. L a b o r a to r y, a leading genetic s re -
RECYCLING The eastern half of Mount Desert is the search center, Mount Deser t Island
LASTING TRAILS Acadia has undertaken a solid waste more populated side. It is home to the town Biological Lab and the College of the At-
Rock slides, natural erosion and millions recycling program that includes items of Bar Harbor, which is near the Cadillac lantic, a small liberal arts college. During
of visitors place a heavy toll on the trails of used by visitors. Bins for glass, plastic and Mountain Entrance to Acadia National Park. the summer, all offer educational programs
Acadia National Park. To combat degrada- aluminum are placed throughout the park. The western half, locally known as the for the public.
tion, Friends of Acadia and Acadia National From 2001 to 2005, the program recycled an “quiet side,” is more rural. The land is punctu- Learn more about the town’s history at
Park launched “Acadia Trails Forever,” a average of more than 18 tons of newsprint, ated with marshes, coves, inlets and an oc- the Bar Harbor Historical Museum located
$13 million partnership to reverse these ef- cardboard, plastic and glass per year. casional village. at 33 Ledgelawn Ave. The museum is open
fects. Friends of Acadia is contributing $9 Pollution also comes from light. Several Aca- from 1 to 4 p.m., Monday through Saturday
million of the funding; the balance comes dia towns have passed ordinances to preserve BAR HARBOR from mid-June to October and by appoint-
from admission fees. During a nearly 10- the island’s stunning views of the night sky. Bar Harbor (population 5,325) is a vibrant ment in the winter season. Free admission.
gateway community to Acadia. Where the For more information call (207) 288-0000 or
millionaires’ summer cottages once stood, visit barharborhistorical.org.
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A membership organization
dedicated to Acadia National
Park and its surrounding
communities
join, volunteer,
make a difference!
friendsofacadia.org
Most of Acadia National Park is preserved in its natural state, and every season offers its own spectacular
scenery for visitors to enjoy.
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MO UNT DES E R T I S L AND WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
THINGS TO DO
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Although Acadia is dazzling in summer, eastern half of the island, are lined with bro-
the park’s beauty flourishes throughout the ken stone and some sections are more suit-
year. By land and by sea there is no such able for mountain bikes than racing ones.
thing as an off-season at Acadia. Bikes are not allowed on hiking trails or off
of designated roads. eBikes are considered
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T H INGS T O DO
warmly and bring along a pair of binoculars. lighthouse in the area and see the 220-year-
See the “Nature & Wildlife” chapter for more old Gilley farmstead. Tickets are $49 for
information about watchable wildlife. adults, $27 for children 6 to 14 and $14 for
Available cruises include four park ranger- children under 5. For more information, visit
led nature cruises, two of which include barharborwhales.com
stops on nearby islands. Contact the cruise Islesford Historical Cruise: This 2.75-
lines listed or check at a visitor center for hour cruise includes the Somes Sound and
details and options. Many other cruises— a stop at Little Cranberry Island’s Islesford
whale watches, deep-sea fishing and lob- Historical Museum, whose collection docu-
ster fishing—are also available through local ments Mount Desert Island’s fishing and
charter boat companies. Contact the cham- seafaring heritage. Ticket prices are $32 for
bers of commerce listed in the “Plan Your adults, $29 for seniors 65 and older, $19 for
Visit” chapter for more information. children ages 6 to 12 and $9 for children 5 and
Acadia by the Sea: Cruise through under (infants free). For more information, call
Frenchman Bay on a catamaran to see the (207) 276-5352 or visit cruiseacadia.com.
coast of Mount Desert Island, Schoodic Frenchman Bay Cruise: View wildlife
Peninsula and all the islands in between and learn about history on this two-hour
on this 2.75-hour tour. Tickets are $42 for cruise on a 151-foot, four-masted schooner.
adults, $27 for children 6 to 14, and $14 for Ticket prices: $42 for adults, $39 for se-
children 5 and under. For more information, niors, $32 for children under 12 and $7 for
contact the Bar Harbor Whale Watch Com- those ages 2 to 5. Children under 2 sail free,
pany, barharborwhales.com. but require reservations. For more informa-
Baker Island Cruise: Explore a 130-acre tion, call (207) 288-4585.
uninhabited island on this five-hour (includ-
ing one hour of hiking) cruise. Visit the oldest CARRIAGE TOURS
Wildwood Stables, located on the Park
Loop Road, offers multiple scheduled rides
FUN FACTS
daily in open carriages drawn by draft horses.
The rides are fully narrated with a history of
the park and the carriage roads. Many enjoy
Q . CAN I USE MY GPS the two-hour early evening sunset ride to the
UNIT IN THE PARK?
summit of Day Mountain. The stables are
A. Yes! Acadia’s open from late May to mid-October. Reserva-
EarthCache Program is tions are strongly recommended.
a great way to explore the For visitors with disabilities, there are
park while learning about its
carriages that can accommodate wheel-
geological story. Using your own GPS
c h a i r s . F o r m o r e i n fo r m a t i o n , c a l l
unit and a set of clues, you can guide
1-877-276-3622 or (207) 276-5721 or visit
yourself to a series of park sites. For more
information, visit nps.gov/acad.
acadiahorses.com. -
33 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK |
T H IN G S T O DO T H IN G S T O D O
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weather, of course, has the final say when a highlight of your trip and give you a dif-
it comes to timing and intensity—warm ferent perspective of coastal Maine. Check
days and cold nights promise a quicker color out coastal lighthouses, Cadillac Moun-
change with more brilliant reds, oranges and tain, Somes Sound and other scenic areas.
yellows. Flights depart from Hancock County-Bar
Generally, the leaves reach their peak color- Harbor Airport.
ation during the first two weeks of October.
The Maine Department of Conservation HORSEBACK RIDING
issues weekly foliage reports between mid- For park visitors traveling with their
September and mid-October, describing the own horses, Acadia’s carriage roads make
amount of color and leaf fall in seven separate ideal riding trails. Stalls and campsites
regions of the state. Acadia is part of Zone 2. are available. For more information about
Please visit mainefoliage.com or call bringing your horse to the park, call Wild-
(800) 533-9595 for more information. wood Stables at 1-877-276-3622 or visit
acadiahorses.com.
FISHING
Fishing is allowed on all of Acadia’s ponds KAYAKING
and lakes. Landlocked salmon and brook Whether you are a novice or a skilled pad- Paddlers enjoy kayaking in the lakes, ponds and ocean around Acadia. Some make the journey to
remote campsites for overnight trips.
trout can be caught in the larger lakes. A dler, you can enjoy sea kayaking in the waters
state fishing license is required for freshwater around Mount Desert Island. Guided tours of open daily from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. from April 18 Harbor (on the west side of Mount Desert
fishing, and you must register online to par- varying lengths are available, including over- through October 15. Island). This small gem of a gallery features
ticipate in saltwater fishing. Lakes and ponds night camping trips to remote island sites. Call You need to take a mail or a tour boat to exhibitions and demonstrations on the
are under Maine State jurisdiction. Please see the chambers of commerce listed in the “Plan Little Cranberry Island to visit Islesford His- Down East art of bird woodcarving. Gil-
the “Park Regulations & Safety” chapter for Your Visit” chapter for more information. torical Museum, home to exhibits about ley, a Southwest Harbor native, gained a
more information. New England’s maritime history. Open daily national reputation for his exquisite wood-
MUSEUMS from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m. from June 29 through carvings. It is open year-round. Please
FLIGHTSEEING Abbe Museum is located off Park Loop August and 9 a.m. to 3 p.m. (12 p.m. to 4 visit wendellgilleymuseum.org or call
Flightseeing tours of Acadia, Bar Harbor Road near Sieur de Monts Spring and houses p.m. on Sundays) in September. Free. Call (207) 244-7555 for more information
and other Downeast communities will be a handsome collection of American Indian ar- (207) 288-3338 for more information. The Mount Desert Oceanarium, lo-
tifacts. Open 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., May through Lifelike exhibits of animals native to Mount cated on Route 3 in Bar Harbor, features a
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October. Tickets are $3 per adult, $7 per se- Desert Island are mounted at the George B. lobster hatchery and exhibits about Maine
nior, and $1 per child ages 11 to 17 (10 and Dorr Museum of Natural History at Col- marine life. The oceanarium’s Thomas Bay
under are free). The expanded Abbe Mu- lege of the Atlantic, located on Route 3 in Marsh Walk takes you to a two-deck view-
seum on Mt. Desert Street in Bar Harbor is Bar Harbor. Children will enjoy the hands- ing tower with a telescope for observing
open daily, 10 a.m. to 5 p.m., May 1 through on discovery room and summer field stud- birds and aquatic animals. Open mid-May
October 31; open Thursdays, Fridays, and ies programs. Limited parking is available; to late October, 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. Monday
Saturdays from 10 a.m. to 4 p.m., November best accessed in summer on the Island through Saturday. Cost, including marsh
to April (closed in January). Fees are $8 per Explorer shuttle. For more information, walk, is $20 per adult, $15 for children 4
adult and $4 per child ages 11 to 17; under 10 visit www.coa.edu/dorr-museum or call to 12. Excluding marsh walk, ticket prices
admitted free. Please call (207) 288-3519 for (207) 288-5395. are $12 for adults and $8 for children ages
more information. Birds of a different feather can be found 4 to 10 (under 4 are free). For more infor-
Taking a nature cruise is one of the best ways The Sieur de Monts Nature Center is at the Wendell Gilley Museum, located mation, please call (207) 288-5005 or visit
to see Acadia’s diverse wildlife. located near Abbe Museum. The center is on Route 102 in the town of Southwest theoceanarium.com.
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T H IN G S T O DO T H IN G S T O D O
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ate the park is in the company of a park
ranger. Park rangers can help you better Winter at Acadia is as beautiful as sum-
“read” the landscape, from its natural his- mer, and for the resourceful and adventur-
tory to the imprint man has left upon the ous visitor, every bit as stimulating. Hulls
land. Join a park ranger for a nature walk, Cove Visitor Center is closed November 1
bridges tour, evening star watch, or chil- through April 15. Park Loop Road is closed
In 1901, a group of wealthy Mount Desert conquered the island, visitors to Acadia can dren-friendly activities. Some programs between December 1 and April 14. Dur-
Island summer residents banded together to be thankful for Rockefeller’s generosity and require reservations (no earlier than three ing winter, park services are offered at Bar
set aside the land that would later become foresight. Winding through the eastern half of days in advance). For a current schedule, Harbor Chamber of Commerce at 2 Cot-
Acadia National Park. One of the park’s early the island, past lakes and mountains, these
ask at Hulls Cove Visitor Center or visit the tage St. in Bar Harbor. Park rangers will be
benefactors was John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the roads are now enjoyed by hikers, joggers,
park website. glad to help you plan your winter outing to
millionaire industrialist and philanthropist cyclists, cross-country skiers, carriage riders
ensure maximum enjoyment and safety.
who later planned and built New York City’s and horseback riders.
Rockefeller Center. Rockefeller hoped the
PICNICKING
land would one day become “a real gem of There are picnic areas at Bear Brook, WINTER CAMPING
the first order among national parks,” but, in Fabbri (- ), Seawall and Pretty Marsh on A small section of the Blackwoods
1913, that hope was threatened by an unfore- Mount Desert Island and at Frazer Point campground is available for winter camp-
seen menace: the arrival of the automobile on on the Schoodic Peninsula and Thomp- ing from November 12 to April 9 for free. A
Mount Desert Island. son Island. Each has picnic tables, fire permit from park headquarters is required.
Rockefeller, however, did not take this grills, water fountains and restrooms. From April 12 to 30 and October 11 to No-
Picnicking is permit ted elsewhere in vember 19, a limited number of campsites
One of the best ways to experience Acadia is riding your bike or horse along its 45 miles of the park, provided visitors observe Aca- are available, weather permitting, for $15
carriage roads.
dia’s carry-in, carry-out policy. per night. Self-registration is required. Call
In 1901, a group of wealthy Mount Desert the park. Gently graded and lined with broken (207) 288-3338 for more information. Win-
Island summer residents banded together to
threat lying down. He wanted to preserve the
stone, the “Rockefeller Roads” (as they were ROCK CLIMBING ter visitors should be prepared for quick
set aside the land that would later become known) offered a refuge from the “horseless This adventurous sport is increasing changes in weather. Dress in layers and
horse-and-carriage experience for those who
Acadia National Park. One of the park’s early carriage” for hikers, horseback riders and the in popularity at Acadia. Mount Desert of- bring extra clothing, a first-aid kit, water,
preferred a quieter ride to the new-fangled
benefactors was John D. Rockefeller, Jr., the open, horse-drawn carriages, which were fers lofty challenge—you can climb Otter food, a blanket and maps.
automobile. Over the next 27 years, he built
millionaire industrialist and philanthropist the summercators’ preferred mode of travel.
a system of carriage roads crisscrossing his Cliffs, 60-foot rocky sea cliffs overlooking
who later planned and built New York City’s Linking over 50 miles of carriage roads were
property, most of which he later donated to the ocean, or the South Wall of Champlain WINTER SPORTS
Rockefeller Center. Rockefeller hoped the a series of handsome bridges that were built
the park. Gently graded and lined with broken Mountain, a 200-foot scaling up a granite When covered with a mantle of snow,
land would one day become “a real gem of with local granite and cobblestone. The Rock-
stone, the “Rockefeller Roads” (as they were mountain face. There are no outfitters in the park’s carriage roads make ideal cross-
the first order among national parks,” but, in efeller Roads were not without controversy,
known) offered a refuge from the “horseless
1913, that hope was threatened by an unfore- however. Some summer residents consid- the park, but you can hire a guide. For more country ski trails. Snow also blankets Aca-
carriage” for hikers, horseback riders and the
seen menace: the arrival of the automobile on ered them a scar on the wilderness. information, please call the Bar Harbor dia’s lakes, making ice skating difficult. Ice
open, horse-drawn carriages, which were
Mount Desert Island. Today, now that the automobile has all but Chamber of Commerce at (800) 345-4617. fishermen fare well, however, and their fish-
the summercators’ preferred mode of travel.
Rockefeller, however, did not take this
Linking over 50 miles of carriage roads were
conquered the island, visitors to Acadia can ing shacks are a familiar sight on the park’s
threat lying down. He wanted to preserve the
a series of handsome bridges that were built
be thankful for Rockefeller’s generosity and SWIMMING lakes and ponds between January and early
horse-and-carriage experience for those who foresight. Winding through the eastern half of Swimming is permitted at Sand Beach March. Be cautious and ensure that ice thick-
with local granite and cobblestone. The Rock-
preferred a quieter ride to the new-fangled the island, past lakes and mountains, these (saltwater) and Echo Lake (freshwater).Ocean ness is sufficient to support your weight.
efeller Roads were not without controversy,
automobile. Over the next 27 years, he built roads are now enjoyed by hikers, joggers,
however. Some summer residents consid- temperatures average an invigorating 55–60ºF Snowmobilers can use the 27-mile Park
a system of carriage roads crisscrossing his cyclists, cross-country skiers, carriage riders
ered them a scar on the wilderness. so be prepared to be chilly. Both beaches Loop Road, but are not allowed on most
property, most of which he later donated to and horseback riders.
Today, now that the automobile has all but have lifeguards on duty during the summer carriage roads.
37 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 38
W A L K IN G A N D H IK IN G
carrying thrill-seeker, Acadia has a path for the gravel bar that leads to Bar Island—but
you. The Mount Desert Island section of don’t linger—after 90 minutes, the path will Bar Harbor Shore Path A gravel trail with views of the four 1.0 mile very easy
Bar Harbor town pier Porcupine Islands, and on the shore 30 minutes level
the park alone boasts 17 mountains. Isle au disappear beneath the incoming tide. side, views of Bar Harbor
Haut and Schoodic Peninsula have several Park trailheads and junctions are clearly
Great Meadow Loop A pleasant loop connecting Bar Harbor 2.0 miles very easy
additional peaks. Because the mountains are marked with small, wooden directional signs, Village Green to Acadia with historic sites along the 30 minutes level
all less than 1,600 feet tall, each can be hiked and the paths with blue-paint blazes. way. Access to other trails available
in less than a day and several can be scaled in Pick up a copy of the NPS map of Acadia, Ocean Path A gently rolling footpath following 3.6 miles easy
Sand Beach parking area Park Loop Road to Otter Cliffs with 2 hours fairly level
an hour. During late summer, many trails are available at the Hulls Cove Visitor Center to views of the rock-bound coast
fringed with wild blueberries. Regular visi- use as your road map for driving. It shows el- Schoodic Head Trail A gentle trail offering views of Schoodic 1.0 mile easy to moder-
tors to Acadia know to head to the hills when evations as well as where to find hiking trails Schoodic Peninsula Loop Peninsula and Mount Desert Island 30 minutes ate
Road opposite West Pond 440 feet
the popular Park Loop Road is congested. and scenic carriage roads. Detailed hiking
Ship Harbor Trail A walk through spruce forests and 1.3 miles easy
Even at the height of summer, some of the maps can be purchased at the visitor center.
Ship Harbor parking area along the salt marsh shore of Ship 40 minutes mostly level
hiking trails offer peace and privacy. For more information, refer to the Carriage off Route 102A Harbor, great birdwatching (rocky patches)
Not all of Acadia’s trails lead uphill. Some Roads article in the “Things to Do” chapter Beech Mountain Trail Steep in some sections, this trail on the 1.2 miles moderate
of the gentlest paths—such as Ocean Path, and the hiking safety tips in the “Park Regula- Beech Mountain parking western side of Mount Desert Island 1 hour 839 feet
area off Route 102 offers views of both Long Pond and
which runs parallel to the Ocean Drive sec- tions & Safety” chapter. For additional read- Echo Lake. A fire tower crowns the
tion of Park Loop Road—offer some of the ing, pick up a copy of Carriage Roads of Acadia: summit (not open to the public).
best scenery. If you arrive at the town of Bar A Pocket Guide by Diana F. Abrell (2011). Great Head Trail This cliff walk loop provides views 1.4 miles moderate
Eastern end of Sand Beach of Frenchman Bay, Sand Beach 45 minutes 145 feet
off Park Loop Road and Gorham Mountain.
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Gorham Mountain Trail A short but spectacular climb up an oceanside 2.0 miles moderate
Gorham Mountain parking mountain offering continuous views 1 hour 525 feet
area off Park Loop Road
Jordan Pond Path This relatively level, but rocky, trail around 3.3 miles moderate
Jordan Pond parking area Jordan Pond boasts views of five mountains. 1.75 hours level
off Park Loop Road
Cadillac Mountain This is the least demanding of four 4.2 miles moderate
North Ridge Cadillac parking trails up Acadia’s highest peak with 2.5 hours 1,530 feet
area off Park Loop Road views of Frenchman Bay, offshore
islands and Schoodic Peninsula.
The Beehive A very steep trail along cliff ledges 1.8 miles strenuous
Just north of Sand Beach leads to the top of this mountain. Bowl 45 minutes 520 feet
area off Park Loop Road Trail offers a longer, gentler climb.
Acadia Mountain Trail The park’s best views of Somes 2.0 miles strenuous
Acadia Mountain parking Sound can be had from this trail. 1.25 hours 681 feet
area off Route 102
Emery Path A steady and sometimes steep climb 2.4 miles strenuous
Sieur de Monts Spring area to the top of Dorr Mountain, the first 2.25 hours 1,270 feet
section is terraced with granite steps.
Cadillac Mountain South A long, sometimes strenuous, 7.4 miles strenuous
Ridge hike up Acadia’s tallest peak 4.75 hours 1,530 feet
100 ft. SW of Blackwoods offers excellent panoramic views
Campground entrance of the ocean and mountains.
There are more than 25 peaks in Acadia. All are less than 1,600 feet tall, and most offer spectacular off Route 3
views of the Atlantic Ocean.
39 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 40
WHO’S WHO AT THE PARK
RVs. EXPLORE THE CARRIAGE ROADS Lake. Both areas have lifeguards who are
Reservations can be made for all three Take kids on a horse-drawn carriage ride on duty from June through August.
campgrounds six months in advance. For on Acadia’s carriage roads.
more information or to make reser va - HIKE UP GORHAM MOUNTAIN
tions, please call (877) 444-6777 or visit GO TO THE WATER This short hike ascends only 525 feet
recreation.gov. Look for eagles, ospreys, harbor seals, por- and offers ocean views. During July and
The park maintains five lean-to shel- poises and other marine life and birds. August, you can pick blueberries on some
ters (which can accommodate up to six of Acadia’s mountains.
people) at Duck Harbor Campground, DRIVE UP CADILLAC MOUNTAIN
open May 15 to October 15, on pristine From the top, be the first in America to VISIT SCHOODIC PENINSULA
Isle au Haut. Facilities include a picnic see the sun rise each day. Mar vel at the surf’s sound and fur y
table, a fire ring, a portable toilet and a when it’s almost high tide. Tide informa-
hand pump for drinking water. Reser- VISIT THE ABBE MUSEUM tion is posted at the visitor center and in
vations are required and can be made A short walk from the Nature Center the ranger-led program schedule.
online starting April 1. There is a $20 and down a woodland path, the museum
special-use permit fee. No dogs are al- houses American Indian ar tifacts like
lowed in the campground. early pottery and bone and stone tools. TAKE YOUR MOMENTS AND
This campground is very popular; re - Fees are $ 3 for adults and $1 for chil - SHARE WITH US
Mount Desert Island’s campgrounds offer sites serve early. For more information, call dren (ages 11 to 17). Also visit the Abbe TELL US!
overlooking the park’s beautiful waterways. (207) 288-3338 or visit recreation.gov. in downtown Bar Harbor. Fees are $8 for
41 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 42
N A T U R E & W IL D L IFE
Despite a number of ecological jack pines. But the best known is the white
demands, including harsh winters and pine, which unlike spruce and fir, prefers
overlapping land environments, Acadia’s sunlight to shadow. White pine grows
flora and fauna have flourished. Most of the quickly, usually to heights of more than 100
park’s animals are adept at avoiding detec- feet. Because of its great size, it was once
tion, but look carefully (and quietly) at dawn highly valued for sailing ship masts. 1 2 3
or dusk and you may see them feeding. To Acadia’s earliest inhabitants, no
tree was more important than the pa-
THE FOREST per birch. They used the birch’s tough,
For centuries, evergreens dominated much white bark to craft baskets, canoes and
of northern Maine. When the last glacier re- wigwams. Prized by native tribes and
ceded, spruce and balsam firs outnumbered set tlers alike was the s ugar maple,
deciduous trees such as birch and aspen. whose sweet sap produces that New
4 5 6
These coniferous trees inhibited the growth England delicacy, maple syrup.
of other vegetation with their long shad- 1 ATLANTIC PUFFIN (Fratercula arctica) 4 BLACK BEAR (Ursus americanus)
ows and needles, which, as they decayed, THE WATER’S EDGE Often called “sea parrots” or “clowns of the sea,” It is unlikely that you’ll encounter a black bear.
produced acidic soil. Acadia’s intertidal zone teems with marine these pigeon-sized birds have large, bright orange They are active from spring through fall, moving
beaks and feet. They live in colonies on rocky is- through the woods and mountains eating berries,
These resinous trees are also especially life that has adapted to Acadia’s twice-daily
lands off the coast and aren’t visible from Mount fish or whatever food they can find. By fall, black
quick to burn and slow to regenerate. Fol- tides, which range between 10 and 12 feet.
Desert Island but can be seen during some boat bears claim a den beneath a rock or fallen tree
lowing the 1947 fire, a new forest of sun- Just below the low-water mark is kelp, a
cruises. • Weight 1 lb • Size 1 ft tall • Active spring to sleep for the winter. • Weight 200-600 lbs •
worshipping birch, maple and aspen dense, brown seaweed that can withstand
and summer. Photo: Shutterstock Size 5-6 ft long • Active spring, summer and fall.
sprang up amid the surviving evergreens. 600 pounds of water force per square inch Photo: Shutterstock
Thus, the fire increased the diversity of before breaking. Sheltered by the kelp are 2 BALD EAGLE (Haliaeetus leucocephalus)
Acadia’s woodlands and the intensity of its crabs, sea urchins, sea anemones, sea The national bird of the United States, the bald 5 COMMON LOON (Gavia immer)
fall foliage. As they grow, the deciduous stars and jellyfish. Next closest to shore is eagle lives in coastal woodlands and along wa- Listen for the melodious call of the loon echo-
trees produce the shade required by ever- Irish moss, a bushy, purplish-brown sea- terways, eating fish it catches with its talons. ing in the woods. Recognizable by their zebra-
Bald eagles mate for life and can live up to striped necklace, glossy checkerboard feathers
greens, and eventually spruce and fir will
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30 years in the wild. Look for bald eagles near and sleek graceful form, these majestic birds
stand tall once more in Acadia.
Frenchman Bay. Their seven-foot wingspan can dive as deep as 300 feet to catch their prey.
Ramrod straight with reddish-brown
makes them hard to miss. • Weight 10-20 lbs They eat fish, frogs, insects and vegetation.
bark and sharp, stiff needles, red spruce
• Size 2-4 ft tall • Active year-round. Photo: • Weight 6-14 lbs • Size 28-36 in long • Active
can grow as tall as 110 feet—although on Shutterstock year-round. Photo: Shutterstock
Acadia’s rocky mountaintops, dwarf spruce
one-tenth that size are common. Outside 3 BEAVER (Castor canadensis) 6 EASTERN COYOTE (Canis latrans)
the park, red spruce is heavily logged for These large, broad-tailed rodents build dams This buff- or gray-colored canine resembles
pulp. White spruce, which has silvery- year-round. In September, they start reinforc- a wolf but has a smaller build, narrower muz-
ing their lodges and building food caches to zle and larger ears. While the coyote is not a
brown bark and bluish-green needles, is
prepare for winter. Look for them at dawn and common visitor toMount Desert Island, locals
also found here.
dusk, when they are most active. • Weight report hearing its distinctive “singing” at night.
It is no accident that Maine is known
30-60 lbs • Size 35-50 in long, including tail • Weight 20-50 lbs • Size 30-40 in (head and body)
as the “Pine Tree State.” Several species Acadia’s intertidal zone is teeming with life • Active in Maine year-round. Photo: Shutterstock • Active in Maine year-round. Photo: Shutterstock
thrive in Acadia, including red, pitch and including crabs, sea urchins and sea anemones.
43 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 44
NA T U R E & W I LDLI FE N A T U R E & W IL D L IFE
WATCHABLE WILDLIFE weed. When processed, it becomes car- mon loon to the majestic bald eagle
rageenan, a thickening agent used in ice and peregrine falcon. Sea ducks
cream, cheese, salad dressing and choco- also frequent the coastal waters, par-
late milk. ticularly during the winter months. Of
At the high-water mark, you’ll find a particular note are buf fleheads, red-
white layer of acorn barnacles. These breas te d merganser s, common ei-
minute crustaceans float to shore and at- ders, black scoters, surf scoters and
tach to rocks, ship bottoms and pilings, white-winged scoters. The bufflehead
7 8 9 then they form a tough, conical shell. has a puffy, bonnet-shaped brow, while
Periwinkles, tiny snails half an inch long, the sleek merganser has a crested, almost
feed on wet algae with a rough tongue punkish coiffure. Surf scoters are known
called a radula. as “skunk ducks,” not because of their
A lichen, pale gray in color and known scent but rather for their black-and-white
as old man’s beard, festoons the spruce markings.
trees that grow near shore. Like their moun- Black guillemots are distinct both in
taintop cousins, the trees and plants that sight and sound—they have brilliant red
10 11 12
7 HARBOR SEAL (Phoca vitulina) 10 RED FOX (Vulpes vulpes) grow along the coast are often dwarfed feet, a white wing patch and raucous
These playful animals bask in the sun on ledges You may see red fox hunting hare and small ro- and twisted—the result of fierce winds and squawks. These impressive birds nest
and islands at low tide, especially in spring and dents in open fields and salt marshes, or dart- highly saline ocean spray. on Long Porcupine Island and are visible
summer. At high tide, they take to the water, ing across the park’s roads and carriage roads along its steep ledges. Guillemots can
displaying admirable grace as they hunt for her- by night. Foxes rear their pups in dens. During MARINE WILDLIFE dive as deep as 165 feet to catch their fa-
ring, mackerel and other fish. Harbor seals are of- fall and winter, their red-brown coats become Spotting marine wildlife from aboard vorite treats—cod and mollusks.
ten grey with either dark or light spots or rings. • thick and richly colored. • Weight 6-24 lbs • Size a boat off the coast of Acadia National Dozens of brightly colored warblers
Weight 110-350 lbs • Size 18-36 in long • Active 15-30 in long • Active April through August. Park is a favorite visitor activity. Some of summer in Acadia, filling the woods with
year-round. Photo: Shutterstock Photo: Shutterstock
the most commonly seen whales include their cheerful songs. It is no wonder Aca-
8 HUMPBACK WHALE 11 SNOWSHOE HARE (Lepus americanus) the finback, which ranges from 30 to 70 dia is known as a birdwatcher’s paradise.
(Megaptera novaeangliae) In winter these hares molt their gray-brown coats feet in length and has a distinctive white See the “Things to Do” chapter for in-
These migratory baleen whales can be seen and grow white fur, which provides camouflage stripe across the right side of its jaws; formation about birdwatching in Acadia.
during boat cruises off the coast of Maine. The against the snow and helps them hide from preda- the humpback, which is 30 to 60 feet in
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Gulf of Maine is one of several major feeding ar- tors like coyotes and foxes. The stiff hairs on their length and is noted for its acrobatic be-
eas in the North Atlantic Ocean. No two whale feet form a “snowshoe,” supporting their weight havior, knobby head and snout; and the
tails are alike—each humpback’s flukes have a on the surface of the snow. • Weight 2-4 lbs smaller minke, which is usually less than
distinct black and white pattern. • Weight 30-40 • Size 16-20 in long • Active year-round. 20 feet in length. Puffins can also be seen
tons • Size 49-53 ft long • Active summer and Photo: Shutterstock
on islands along Acadia’s coast. See the
fall. Photo: Shutterstock
12 WHITE-TAILED DEER “Things to Do” chapter for more informa-
9 THE BLACK GUILLEMOT (Cepphus grylle) (Odocoileus virginianus) tion about ranger-led nature cruises and
Is quite a striking sight with its bright-red feet and These tall and graceful deer are plentiful in Acadia whale watching tours.
black feathers. The guillemot is only truly black in and are most often seen in areas with open fields.
summer, however; its feathers turn mostly white They have a tan coat and a tail with a white un- BIRDS
in winter. This bird eats mostly fish, and can stay derside, which is visible when they run or sense Located at the juncture of the north-
underwater for up to two minutes and 20 sec- danger. They feed on grasses, tree buds, nuts ern and temperate life zones, Acadia at-
onds. • Weight 11 to 17 oz • Size 12 to 12.5 in • and acorns. • Weight 110-300 lbs • Size 6-8 ft tall tracts more than 30 0 species of sea,
Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock • Active year-round. Photo: Shutterstock Several companies offer daily puffin-viewing
shore, and land birds, from the com- tours from the end of May to mid-August.
45 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK | | A C A D IA N A T IO N A L P A R K 46
PHOTOGRAPHY
For millennia, we’ve looked towards the tion. Next, set your white balance to daylight
heavens and contemplated what’s beyond settings (5500k) and turn on your mirror lock
our orbit and universe. More recently, star- to avoid mirror shake. Wait until the moon is
gazing has become increasingly difficult for out, too, as it’ll illuminate and add detail to
millions of people living in developed areas. If your foreground. Make sure that it’s behind
you live in a populated area east of the Missis- you. To capture star trails:
sippi or along the Pacific coast, odds are that • Set your ISO at 200 to reduce digital noise.
you can count the number of stars you see • Compose your image, making sure you
on your hands. National and state parks—re- have interesting features in the foreground.
mote and minimally developed—not only pro- • Choose your focal length. The longer the
tect our land, but also our dark skies which focal length, the quicker your star trails will
are ideal for astrophotography. start to form.
There are two primary types of astropho- • Set your camera to manual mode so that
tography shots that yield different, but stel- you can select your shutter speed and
lar compositions. A long exposure setting aperture.
will show stars trailing across the sky, while • Set your aperture between f/2.8 and f/4 for
a shorter exposure will show pinpoints of best results.
light—objects that a camera can capture that • Select “bulb mode” as your shutter speed.
the unaided eye cannot. Both require a cam- • Use your cable release or remote to open
era with interchangeable lenses and manual the shutter or set your timer for two to
controls to set aperture, ISO, and exposure four minutes.
settings. Here’s what you’ll need to start: Check your results. If your picture is too
• A sturdy tripod: Simply put, a shaky tri- dark, increase the exposure time. If your trails
pod will yield blurry photos. are to short, increase the exposure time.
• A cable release or remote control or in- Keep playing around with your settings to get
tervalometer: You’ll want to avoid touch- the results you desire. To learn how to take
ing your camera to minimize shake. The photos of the milky way and millions of points
addition of an intervalometer will allow you of light, visit ohranger.com/brightskies.
to take sequential long exposures.
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47 A C A DI A NA T I ONA L PARK |
IF YOU ONLY
HAVE A DAY
Acadia’s compact size makes it easy to series of mountain peaks. There are fre-
take in many of the park’s highlights in one quent turnouts where you can stop to ad-
day. To make the most of your time, begin mire the views. On a clear day, you can see
your day before 9 a.m. During the summer, Schoodic Point from Otter Cliffs. At the
the park is busiest between 10 a.m. and South Bubble turnout, look for the large
2 p.m. Don’t try to crowd too much into boulder on the mountaintop that was left
your day. See what you can, see it well and behind by a receding glacier.
make plans for a return trip. If time and weather permit, park your
car and sample some of Acadia on foot.
VISITOR CENTER Some short but scenic walks include the
Hulls Cove Visitor Center opens at dramatic Ocean Path along Frenchman
8 a.m. in July and August. An interpretive Bay, the hike up Gorham Mountain
display includes information about the park and the trail along the shore of Jordan
and works from Acadia’s artists in resi- Pond. Stop by the Jordan Pond House
dence. You can also pick up a free map and for warm popovers and fresh-squeezed
other park literature here. lemonade.
The Park Loop Road culminates with the
PARK LOOP ROAD drive to the summit of 1,530-foot Cadil-
Acadia’s Park Loop Road is an ideal day lac Mountain. From here, you’ll be able
trip. This 27-mile loop takes in much of to survey all of Acadia and the surrounding
the eastern half of Acadia, winding along bays—a view that is especially spectacular
the rocky coast past Sand Beach, Thunder at day’s end, when the setting sun suf-
Hole and Otter Cliffs. It then swings inland fuses the landscape with its warm light.
through the park’s wooded interior, past
Jordan Pond and Eagle Lake and past a MOUNT DESERT ISLAND
To finish off your day in Acadia, spend
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