Sicily - Recipes From An Italian Island - Katie

OTHER BOOKS BY KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI:
The Amalfi Coast: A Collection of Italian Recipes

Venice: Recipes Lost and Found
Rome: Centuries in an Italian Kitchen
RECIPE NOTES
– Unless otherwise stated: all fruit and vegetables are
medium-sized; all fruit and herbs are fresh; all eggs are
free-range and medium-sized.
– All olive oil used in this book is extra-virgin olive oil.
– Raw or lightly cooked eggs should be avoided by pregnant

women, the elderly and very young children.
– Recipes that contain nuts should be avoided by those with

a known allergic reaction to nuts and nut derivatives.
– Oven temperature: these are given for fan ovens. If you are
using a conventional oven, increase the heat by around
20°C (you can also check with the manufacturer’s
handbook).
CONTENTS
TITLE PAGE
INTRODUCTION
PALERMO & ITS STREET FOOD

ANTIPASTI
SOUPS
CONTORNI
PASTA, RICE & COUSCOUS
MEAT & POULTRY
FISH
DOLCI & COCKTAILS
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
INDEX
COPYRIGHT PAGE
INTRODUCTION
Sicily is a unique and extraordinary tapestry – intricate, vibrant and
brightly coloured in parts, shot through with exquisite strands of gold and
silver; worn bare, faded and patched up in others. Look behind the fabric
holding it together and you will see a complex tangle of thousands of
threads that give it its outward appearance. Like all treasured possessions,
it has passed through the hands of various owners, each leaving their mark.
From the 7th century BC, the Phoenicians, Greeks, Romans and Arabs invaded
Sicily, followed by the Normans, Spanish and more. When I started researching
Sicilian food, I thought I could unpick these threads and follow them back to
their source to see singular origins for particular dishes. I would be able to say
with assurance, ‘This is an Arabic recipe from the west of the island, this is
Greek from the east,’ and so on, but it is not as simple as that. Actually, the
tapestry is very tightly woven; it is impossible to unravel. Sicily’s culture as well
as its cuisine is the result of all of these threads knotted together. It is this exotic
mixture of influences from the East and West that makes the Sicilian kitchen so
different from the rest of Italy.
The cassata, a sweet ricotta-filled sponge cake covered in green icing
(frosting) and decorated with jewels of candied fruit, is a perfect example of this;
it is the history of a cake and an island. The name comes possibly from the
Arabs, who used a domed dish called a qas’at, or from the Latin for cheese,
caseum. The Greeks made ricotta-style cheese but the Arabs brought over sugar
cane and sweetened it and flavoured it with citrus fruits, almonds and cinnamon.
During the Norman period, marzipan came into vogue and the cassata’s pastry
case was cast off in favour of the new almond paste. The Spanish introduced a
light layer of sponge and added bitter chocolate to contrast with the sweet
ricotta. The English coated the cake in icing, which made it last longer, and
finally during the baroque period of the 18th century, bright candied fruit and
intricate swirls of icing were added to top the whole creation.
Sicily is the largest island in the Mediterranean and is the market of Italy.
Nowhere else can boast the variety and quality of its natural produce, the best
and freshest fish from clear blue waters, fruits of every kind ripened in the hot
sun, sheep and goat cheeses from the mountains.
As Giancarlo and I drove up the winding road to Polizzi Generosa, towards
central Sicily, we passed jujube trees, fig, walnut, apple and pear trees laden
with their autumn harvest. With fish from the sea, game from the land and the
ability to grow crops easily on the fertile soil, it is easy to see why people would
want to settle there. It is a natural paradise yet over the years it has been ravaged
not only by some of the cruellest invaders from the outside but also by the Mafia
within. The problem now is the lack of work and you will pass derelict houses
and even small villages that have been abandoned. My heart goes out to the
region; you just want it to work, for the situation to improve and for the people
to prosper. Most Sicilians welcome you with such generosity of spirit and are
keen to share with you what they have.
The island has throughout the centuries suffered appalling poverty; between
1951 and 1975, for example, one million Sicilians were forced to emigrate to the
US. Those who stayed learnt to use the free and readily available ingredients
around them to flavour a diet of simple grains and vegetables. Wild fennel is
everywhere and mint gets trodden underfoot. I looked at some old steps in
Modica and realised that, in the corner of each one, a different herb was
growing. We saw mint, fennel, angelica, borage, oregano, capers – all growing
wild. No wonder Sicilian food has such vibrant flavours.
Depending on where you go in Sicily you could have vastly differing opinions
of the island. Most tourists will only see the manicured towns of the baroque
south-east or clean and tidy Taormina, while others plump for the wild, rugged
and barren coastline of the west where tourism has hardly left a mark. Palermo is
not like other cities in Italy; it still has a gritty, unkempt feel in places, despite its
tourist attractions. That’s not to say it isn’t likeable – it is, and there is plenty to
do for a weekend. Just don’t expect the order of Rome or the wealth of Florence.
You will have great food, buzzing markets, fascinating history to discover,
stunning beaches, good-value accommodation and a real and unique experience
unlike anywhere else.
Having tasted the strong flavours of Sicilian produce, how, we thought, are we
going to find truly Sicilian recipes that will work back home in the UK with the
paltry selection of fish and forced, polytunnel-grown vegetables on offer in our
local supermarket? ‘E fresco?’ is the question you will hear your average
Sicilian ask when buying fish, (bell) peppers, and, well, anything really. Sicilians
are obsessed with the provenance of their food and with it being fresco, fresh. I
just don’t hear people back home saying that. We know the fish in our local store
wasn’t caught that morning.
The older generation still doesn’t like to eat out of season. The sheer idiocy of
asking for strawberries in October made our friend Mimmo, who runs his
restaurant Osteria Bacchus in Sant’Ambrogio, practically hysterical. He thought
it was so funny that people would come to his restaurant in autumn and ask for a
strawberry sorbet – he told them to come back in June! He chuckled for ages at
the ridiculous notion. As we drove away from his restaurant one chilly January
day, we realised that, in the days before, we had been served strawberries at each
restaurant we’d visited, even at that time of year. ‘Come on Sicily,’ I thought,
‘stick to your roots. Don’t eat food out of season; it isn’t in your nature.’ Now
the island is covered in polytunnels to extend the season and, to my mind, that
should be the only reason, to extend the growing season, not to go completely
against nature. None of the strawberries we tasted had much flavour – better to
wait for June, as Mimmo said.
One of our managers, Marianna, from our restaurant Caffè Caldesi, is Sicilian
and I asked her what she was going to enjoy eating as soon as she was home for
Christmas (secretly hoping for a completely original addition to my collection of
Sicilian recipes). ‘Ah,’ she said, with a teary eye, ‘fresh fish.’ ‘Really?’ I asked.
‘How will your mother cook it?’ (I was still holding out hope for a secret sauce
recipe passed down a long line of maternal grandmothers.) ‘Simply,’ she
answered. ‘On the outside grill, just simple; a little oil and salt, but the freshness,
Katie, aah.’
Oh for goodness’ sake, I wanted to cry out, they are obsessed. However, it did
show me the passion for ingredients that even the young hold dear.
Seeing over the years how the Italians shop and cook, Marianna’s delight at
the thought of fresh fish and Mimmo’s laughter at October strawberries makes
me realise how important it is to get the best produce. That might mean growing
what you can, choosing to shop at farmers’ markets or travelling to our
remaining fishmongers or independent butchers for the best and freshest
ingredients. Then you keep the preparation simple; you do little to your food, but
sit back and enjoy the outcome for supper. This is weekday food and the recipes
we have included in our ‘use three ways’, which are scattered throughout the
book, make the most of seasonal produce.
The exceptions to this are the complex, Arab-inspired dishes such as the sweet
and sour aubergine caponata, pasta with sardines, pine nuts, currants and wild
fennel, or couscous. These recipes are more elaborate, contain a hotchpotch of
ingredients and are wonderful, but cannot be ‘knocked up’ in two minutes. This
is our weekend way of eating, dishes that take a little longer to make but are the
showstoppers.
In this series of books about the Italian regions, I have always summed up the
primary ingredients in my introductions: in Amalfi it was first catch your fish, in
Venice grind your spices in your pestle and mortar, in Rome it was grow your
chilli and rosemary, and now in Sicily my advice would be to find lemons and
oranges with leaves on to ensure their freshness.
HISTORY OF SICILY
WHO BROUGHT WHAT, AND WHEN?

For those who want to know a little more…
There are too many invasions spanning 4,000 years of Sicilian civilisation to
mention here. Suffice to say that the genetic history of your average Sicilian
must be fascinating to follow. You will find Sicilians of Norman descent with
red hair, Greek green eyes and stature, and those from dark-skinned and dark-
haired Moorish ancestry.
This is our abbreviated guide to who introduced which foodstuff to the island.
It is an incredible list of diverse cultures and helps us understand why Sicilian
food is so wonderfully eclectic and unlike the rest of Italy and indeed the rest of
the world. Perhaps it is the first real fusion food in a land where East meets
West. Eat your way around the island, sampling the dishes along the way, and
you will have a lesson in its history as well as its cuisine.
PALERMO & ITS STREET FOOD
From slices of bright red and green watermelon sold to refresh you in
summer, to hot salt-baked chestnuts and the curls of white smoke
emanating from their stalls in winter, there is always something to tempt
you on the streets of Palermo.
Street food dates back at least to Roman times and possibly before. For centuries
people had no ovens at home and fuel was short, so hot food would only have
been available on the street. We decided to take a food tour around the capital. It
was years since we had been to Palermo and all I remember from the last time is
running away from drug dealers I had inadvertently filmed on a small video
camera at the edge of Ballarò market. Such was my wonder at the place, the
dilapidated buildings, a shadow of their former grandness, the beguiling smiles
and cheerful shouting of the market stallholders bragging about their best
produce. Palermo is gritty, visceral and edgy. And the produce against this
backdrop? Such perfect tomatoes, bumpy skinned, ripe and colourful; huge
distorted (bell) peppers; celery with leaves you can smell as you pass, bright
freshly caught fish often still alive or in rigor, courgettes (zucchini) in all shapes
and sizes – nothing uniform for the supermarket, each piece unique.
Our guide to the street food of Palermo was Salvatore Agusta, who runs tours
around his city. Sicily has the right climate for street food and enough poor
people and now inquisitive tourists to demand it. He told us there are five key
points to street food:
– It is soft – so it is easy to eat with no cutlery (and possibly, in the past, few
teeth).
– It has few ingredients – five or six max, so it doesn’t take too much time or
money to make.
– It must be cheap and is usually made or coated with filling carbohydrate.
– It has a historical connotation – each type of street food tells a story of the past.
– It is fresh – the food is usually sold very soon after the final step in making it,
which might be frying it off or putting the meat in the bun.
‘Fry shops’, or friggitorie, sell panelle – chickpea fritters – as well as hot

battered vegetables and potato crocchè. Ready-cooked food such as boiled
potatoes, roasted onions in their skins and blackened peppers can be eaten
straight away or taken home to make into a salad. Slices of soft, squashy bread
topped with tomato and onion sauce known as sfincione are so good, not to
mention everyone’s favourite – the arancine, rice balls.
Less tempting perhaps to our palates are the various stalls selling fried and
boiled entrails from one animal or another. The Palermitani absolutely love
these. Pippo, from the aptly named stall Joie, told me, ‘It’s good what you like, it
is no good what is beautiful.’ He has to say this, I feel, as the bowl of boiled
entrails, bollito, is probably the least pretty food I have ever seen. Giancarlo was
salivating at the thought of tasting spleen again, a food memory from his
childhood in Tuscany. I did try it, and actually found it pleasant; each of the
organ meats had its own texture and flavour and I agree we should eat all parts
of the animal. It was an interesting experience: the brain was soft and had a
flavour of corned beef; the milky entrails fought back a little; the foot was
chewy; the udder was like a squashy, rough paste and the tongue grainy and soft.
I was rewarded by Pippo for my bravery with a cold glass of Nero d’Avola (the
best bit) and I was proud of having given it a go. The locals, he told me, take
home 1.5 kg (3 lb) bags of boiled organ meat to make salad, which is enough to
feed a family of ten.
On another trip around the market our guide Vincenzo insisted I try frittola –
scraps of meat, scraped off the bone and fried in lard – stigghiole, the intestines
of a young cow, lamb or goat; and pani ca meuza, a soft bun filled with boiled
spleen and a squeeze of lemon.
Veal spleen in a bun is famous in Palermo and has a Jewish history. The Jews
were allowed to work with metal and kill animals but the Torah prevented them
from taking money for it. They did, however, take the interior meat as payment,
known as the fifth quarter. They then boiled parts of this in lard and sold it back
to the Palermitani. The pan was originally boiled over coals at an angle so that
the fat drains to one side. The Jews were expelled by the Spanish following the
edict of 1492 and local Palermitani took over running the stands, a tradition
carried on by men like Guiseppe Basile, whom we met on our tour, and whose
family has been doing it for generations.
There are two main markets in Palermo: Ballarò and Capo. The previously
large market of Vucciria (named after the French for butcher’s, boucherie) is a
shadow of its former self. Still now, troppo Vucciria means ‘too much noise’,
harking back to when it was a thriving butchers’ area.
ARANCINE
The word arancine comes from the Italian for oranges since they are the same
colour and shape. They have been made in various forms since the days of Arab
rule and were made originally by the Tuareg, the pastoral nomads, with goat
meat and couscous. It was the chef of Frederick II who replaced the couscous
with rice so that the arancine held together better. Saffron was added as it was
thought to make them last longer. Arancine were taken on hunting expeditions
by the aristocracy so that they could eat without having to light a fire and thus
draw attention to themselves. The chef also covered them in egg and
breadcrumbs to provide further protection and it is this coating that gives the
arancine their crunch. In this way, they are similar to Cornish pasties, as you
were supposed to eat just the inside and discard the crust, which was dirty from
being handled. The Sicilians have a particular kind of rice for this – an old
variety that becomes sticky when cooked. They use the same rice in Spain for
paella.
In Palermo, the different flavours are denoted by the shapes: the cones are
spinach, the rounds are mushroom, the oblongs are mozzarella and ham, and the
balls are the original one, the ragu. They are huge and one is enough for a whole
meal. In eastern Sicily, around Catania, the arancine have a more conical shape,
reminiscent of Mount Etna. When the Spanish came they brought their French
chefs, the monzù, and they made more delicate arancine, more like canapés.
The ragu in arancine is a little like the filling for cottage pie. It has minced
(ground) meat, carrots, tomatoes and onions and is a little spicy. It contains a
full-bodied red wine such as the typical Sicilian Nero d’Avola and lots of black
pepper. The béchamel is a binder and helps the ragu hold together. Do play
around with the flavours but a little béchamel is always a good idea. Here we
have made one batch and split it in half for two different flavours. The rice in
Palermo is yellow with saffron and has no tomatoes in it. Good arancine should
have a lot of stuffing. The breadcrumbs should be fine and ideally the balls
should be fried in lard, but seed oil is a good replacement.
Flavours are open to the imagination or what you have left over in the fridge.
At the recently opened Ke Palle, a shop devoted to arancine in Via Maqueda,
Palermo, you will find everything from pistachio, stracchino and speck to prawn
(shrimp), spinach and ricotta, and even sweet ones filled with Nutella or
pistachio cream.
ARANCINE
ARANCINE
Makes approximately 10 arancine 7 cm (2¾ in) wide
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2¼ cups) Arborio rice salt

½–1 teaspoon saffron strands, depending on your taste
50 g (2 oz/½ stick) salted butter
seed oil for frying
For the béchamel
(half for the ragu and half for the ham and cheese)
400 ml (13 fl oz/1¾ cups) whole milk
1 bay leaf
75 g (2½ oz/generous ¼ cup) salted butter
60 g (2 oz/½ cup) ‘00’ flour or cornflour salt and freshly ground black pepper
good pinch of ground nutmeg
For the mozzarella and ham filling
150 g (5 oz) cooked ham, finely chopped
120 g (4 oz) mozzarella, finely chopped
15 g (½ oz) Parmesan, finely grated
75 g (2½ oz/scant ½ cup) cooked petits pois
For the ragu filling
250 g (9 oz) cooked and cooled Quick Beef Ragu
For the coating
100 g (3½ oz/1 cup) ‘00’ flour or gluten-free flour
150 ml (5 fl oz/⅔ cup) tepid water
100 g (3½ oz/1 cup) fine dry breadcrumbs (you can use gluten-free)
Cook the rice in plenty of lightly salted water for 17–20 minutes or until soft.
Remove from the heat and drain, keeping a little of the cooking water. Mix the
saffron with a couple of tablespoons of the starchy rice cooking water and stir
into the rice with the butter. Taste the rice and adjust the salt and saffron flavours
as necessary. Pour into an open wide bowl and allow the rice to cool quickly.
Don’t keep it out of the fridge for any longer than 1 hour.
To make the béchamel, warm the milk with the bay leaf in a saucepan over a
medium heat. Warm the butter and flour in another saucepan and stir to
combine. Let the flour mixture bubble a little in the pan then pour into the hot
milk and immediately whisk through, keeping the pan over the heat. Season with
salt, pepper and nutmeg. When the sauce starts to thicken, remove the pan from
the heat and divide between two bowls, discarding the bay leaf. Cover both with
cling film (plastic wrap) touching the surface and allow to cool. When cold, stir
the ham, cheeses and peas into one bowl, and the ragu into the other.
Make the coating by mixing the flour with the water and blending until
smooth with a whisk or a stick blender. Set aside in a bowl large enough to dip
in the arancine. Put the breadcrumbs into a separate bowl.
Work the rice through with your hands, squeezing and breaking down the
grains, for around 5 minutes (it’s actually quite therapeutic and enjoyable!). If
you dip your hands in cold water first, the rice will stick less. Weigh out around
120 g (4 oz) of rice and flatten it a little into the palm of your hand. Make a
small well in the centre. Put around 30 g (1 oz) of either the ragu or the cheese
and ham mixture into the hollow, then close the rice around it, squeezing and
pushing the rice together into a ball in your palms. Dip the arancina into the
batter and, as you bring it out, let the batter drain off. Now roll it in the
breadcrumbs. Pick up more breadcrumbs and scatter them over, lightly pressing
them into the surface. Put the arancine straight into hot oil to fry, or finish
making them all before cooking. At this point they can be frozen, but should be
defrosted in a fridge overnight before cooking.
To fry them, heat the oil in a deep-sided saucepan or a deep-fat fryer to around
175°C (347°F) and fry the arancine for 5–7 minutes, or until they turn a deep
orangey-brown. Use a skewer to pierce the arancine through to the centre and
pull them out of the oil. Touch the tip of the skewer to see if it is hot. If it isn’t,
cook the balls for longer. Drain on kitchen paper and eat straight away.
ARANCINE/MINI ARANCINE ALLA POLPA DI GRANCHIO
SPINACH & MOZZARELLA ARANCINE

For the filling
150 g (5 oz) cooked and squeezed-out spinach
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil
1 garlic clove, peeled and lightly crushed
salt and freshly ground black pepper
120 g (4 oz) mozzarella, roughly chopped
50 g (2 oz) Parmesan, finely grated
¼ teaspoon ground nutmeg, to taste
Sauté the cooked spinach in the oil with the garlic and seasoning for a few
minutes. Remove from the heat, discard the garlic and finely chop the spinach.
Put into a bowl and, when cool, add the remaining ingredients and stir to
combine. Fill and cook your arancine as.
MINI CRAB ARANCINE
These are pop-in-your-mouth, all-in-one-go sized rice balls that are perfect
for a party. Prepare them in advance and keep them in the fridge, then fry
or oven bake the arancine at the last minute to serve warm to guests. By
dipping them in batter and breadcrumbs they will form a crispy coating
which is lovely around the soft rice centres. For ease, especially when
entertaining, you can simply oven bake the arancine. We serve these as
amuse-bouches at our restaurant Caldesi in Campagna, where instead of
crab we often mix the rice with truffle oil, cooked porcini mushrooms or
simply lots of finely grated cheese and chopped herbs. You can also make
them with leftover risotto.
Makes 30 walnut-sized arancine
½ quantity of the rice (250 g/9 oz/generous 1 cup) cooked and mixed with
saffron and butter as the recipe for Arancine
300 g (10½ oz) white crab meat (or a mixture of brown and white crab meat)
large handful of parsley, finely chopped
seed oil for frying or extra-virgin olive oil for brushing
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Once the rice has cooled, mix in the
crab meat, parsley and seasoning and form 20 walnut-sized balls. Now either dip
them in the batter and breadcrumbs as in the Arancine recipe, or simply brush
them with a little olive oil and put them on a lightly oiled baking tray. Bake in
the oven for 15–20 minutes or until hot and the oil is slightly bubbling at the
sides.
PANELLE
CHICKPEA FRITTERS
If you wander around any market in Sicily you will see panelle, meaning
‘little breads’, for sale. These chickpea fritters are often served in a bun – so
it will be pane e panelle. Panelle are made from pouring chickpea (gram)
flour into boiling water with salt and sometimes herbs. They are cooked in
vats of bubbling oil for just a few minutes. Tipping them onto a marble slab
(not wood as it is absorbent) means they cool quickly on the cold surface.
Serves 6–8

300 g (10½ oz/3¼ cups) chickpea (gram) flour
1 teaspoon salt
900 ml (31 fl oz/4 cups) water
15 g (½ oz) parsley or celery leaves, or 2 teaspoons fennel seeds, lightly crushed
seed oil for deep-frying
Brush a standard shallow oven tray with a tablespoon of the olive oil and set
aside. Brush the remaining olive oil over a piece of baking parchment the same
size as the tray and set aside. Put the flour, salt and water into a saucepan and
whisk together well. Put the pan on to the heat and bring to the boil, whisking
continuously. When the mixture starts to thicken and splutter remove from the
heat and add the parsley or fennel seeds. Pour the mixture on to the baking tray
and cover with the oily side of the baking parchment. Press it down all over so
that you have an even layer of chickpea batter around 5 mm (¼ in) thick.
Remove the parchment and set the tray aside to cool and the mixture to set for
30–40 minutes. Cut the cooled mixture into squares approximately 5 x 5 cm (2 x
2 in) for traditional panelle. Heat the oil in a large saucepan or a deep-fat fryer to
175°C (347°F) or hot enough to brown a small piece of bread instantly. Fry the
fritters for about 5 minutes or until golden brown on all sides. Drain on kitchen
paper and sprinkle with a little salt before serving while still warm.
RICOTTA AL FORNO
OVEN-BAKED RICOTTA WITH ONIONS & ROSEMARY
We saw this dish in Ballarò market in Palermo, where a father and son
were a wonderful double act, calling out for people to come and admire
their cheese stall. They had every imaginable local cheese on offer, as well as
a few inventions of the father. He took great pride in asking me to come and
see his tiny oven where he was baking fresh ricotta. The smell alone of
roasting onions and rosemary was enough to draw a crowd. It seemed such
a simple idea I couldn’t wait to get home to try it. It’s brilliant and a recipe
I keep returning to when I have people coming round. Serve the ricotta hot
from the oven with one of the focaccia recipes – it is lovely like this and even
more special with the Sun-dried Tomato & Chilli Relish.
Serves 4–6 as antipasti
250 g (9 oz/1 cup) ricotta

3 sprigs of rosemary, needles removed from the stems
1 shallot, finely chopped
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) and line a baking tray with baking
parchment (I tear a piece so that it has rough edges and serve the ricotta on a
wooden board on the paper, as it browns lightly in the oven). Drain the ricotta by
tipping out any water from the container and turn it out onto the baking tray.
Gently make a dip in the top of the cheese and scatter over the seasoning,
rosemary and chopped shallot, piling it up on top. Pour over the oil and bake for
20–30 minutes or until lightly browned. Serve with crusty bread.
SFINCIONE
SICILIAN PIZZA
Sfincione is a squashy Sicilian deep pizza topped with a delicious oniony

tomato sauce. This is lovely on its own and is eaten in Palermo as a snack or
with a buffet of antipasti. It is thought that the Sicilians who moved to the
US took the idea of this deep-dish-style pizza with them. The topping varies
from town to town around the island; sometimes there are no tomatoes,
sometimes the pizza is covered in primosale, a young fresh sheep’s cheese, or
breadcrumbs and grated Parmesan. The sauce makes more than you need,
but it’s so delicious you can eat it stirred into pasta, on cooked fish or on the
Quick Ricotta Sfincione. In the photo, the pizza is served with the Focaccia.
Use 3 Ways
On pizza,
Baked Sea
bass, pasta
Serves 4–6
For the dough

250 g (9 oz/2 cups) ‘00’ flour
7 g (¼ oz) fresh yeast or 3 g (1 heaped teaspoon) fast-action dried yeast
1 teaspoon fine salt
225 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) tepid water
For the sfincione sauce
1 large onion, cut in half from root to tip and thinly sliced into half-moons
4 anchovies in oil, drained freshly ground black pepper
1 x 400 g tin chopped tomatoes
1 tablespoon tomato purée (tomato paste)
1 teaspoon dried oregano
Mix the flour, yeast, salt, water and 2 tablespoons of the oil in a mixer with a
whisk attachment at a medium speed or an electric whisk for 10 minutes. Use a
tablespoon of the oil to thoroughly grease a 23–25 cm (9–10 in) round tin and
pour in the dough. Pour the remaining oil over the whole surface so that the
dough can rise in the tin but won’t dry out. You can spread the dough with your
fingers if you dip them in oil first. Leave in a warm place to rise and double in
volume. This could take anywhere between 1 –2 hours, depending on the
warmth of the room. The slower the rise, the better the flavour and larger the
holes in the bread, so it is better not to rush it. You will know the dough is ready
when you press an oiled finger into the surface and it returns back to shape
slowly.
Meanwhile, fry the onion in the oil over a low heat with the anchovies and a
little black pepper until soft and slightly caramelised. This will take up to 15
minutes – you don’t want the onion to take on any colour but you want the
sweetness to come through. Add the tomatoes, tomato purée and oregano and stir
through. Bring to the boil then simmer for 40 minutes over a medium heat to
allow the sauce to reduce. Transfer to a bowl to cool.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). When the dough is swollen, gently
pour over approximately 150 g (5 oz) of the sauce. Transfer the bread to the
oven and bake for 20 minutes. Scatter over the cheese and continue to bake for a
further 5–10 minutes or until the sauce has started to brown around the edges
and the cheese has melted. Take out of the oven and remove from the tin straight
away. Allow to cool on a rack.
SFINCIONE FINTO/FOCACCIA ALL A SICILIANA
QUICK RICOTTA SFINCIONE

This is another brilliant idea from the man at the cheese stall at Ballarò market in
Palermo and it makes a lovely quick lunch or snack if you already have the
sfincione sauce. Instead of making the dough for a pizza, take a piece of
sourdough bread and smear it with a thick layer of ricotta. Spread over a
generous spoonful of sfincione sauce and scatter over a pinch of dried oregano.
Cook for 10–15 minutes at 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) or until lightly browned.
SICILIAN FOCACCIA WITH SESAME SEEDS

Follow the recipe for Sicilian Pizza, scattering 2 teaspoons each of dried oregano
and sesame seeds over the surface of the dough before it rises and omitting the
sfincione sauce. Cook as the Sicilian Pizza for 20–25 minutes. See photo.
FOCACCIA SENZA GLUTINE
GLUTEN-FREE FOCACCIA
After much experimentation we are really happy with this nutty focaccia. It
even has the typically big holes of traditional focaccia. We love the flavour
of chestnut flour; it offers sweetness to the dough and deepens the colour.
However, if you can’t find it, substitute it with extra gluten-free flour
instead. This recipe can be used to make either the Sicilian Pizza or the
Sicilian Focaccia with Sesame Seeds.
Serves 6–8
200 g (7 oz/1⅔ cups) gluten-free flour

50 g (2 oz/generous ½ cup) chestnut flour
7 g (¼ oz) fresh yeast or 3 g (1 heaped teaspoon) fast-action dried yeast
1 heaped teaspoon xantham gum
1 teaspoon fine salt
225 ml (8 fl oz/1 cup) tepid water
2 eggs
2 teaspoons sesame seeds
2 teaspoons dried oregano
Mix the flours, yeast, xantham gum, salt, water, eggs and 1 tablespoon of the oil
in a mixer with a whisk attachment at a medium speed or an electric whisk for
10 minutes. Use a little of the remaining oil to thoroughly grease a 23–25 cm (9–
10 in) round tin and pour in the dough. Pour the rest of the oil over the whole
surface so that the dough can rise in the tin but won’t dry out. You can spread
the oil with your fingers if you dip them in oil first. Scatter over the sesame
seeds and oregano. Leave in a warm place to rise and double in volume. This
could take anywhere between 1–2 hours, depending on the warmth of the room.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Transfer the bread to the oven and
bake for 20 minutes. Take out of the oven and remove from the tin straight
away. Put back into the oven on a rack for 5 minutes to cook through. Remove
from the oven and allow to cool on a rack.
Variation: To make this gluten-free focaccia into the Sicilian Pizza, follow the
instructions adding the sfincione sauce and cheese. When it is cooked, remove it
from the tin and give it 5 more minutes in the oven on a rack to ensure it is
cooked through.
PANE CUNZATO
ROUND SANDWICHES
All around the island, round, flattish loaves such as Monreale bread, sesame
seeded loaves or simple focaccia are split in half and filled with the most
delicious combinations. These ‘sandwiches’ used to be poor man’s food and
could be taken to the fields for lunch. Now cafés and wine bars such as the
Enoteca Rossorubino in Cefalù serve them cut into wedges with wonderful local
wines and olives.
Here, Francsco and Mimmo from Osteria Bacchus in Sant’Ambrogio showed
us their favourite combination of sliced tomatoes, mozzarella, lettuce, anchovies
broken into pieces and smeared over the bread, oregano, pepper and salt. It is
important that the bread is not too hard to bite through and it should be
moistened with good olive oil and sliced tomatoes. Or try tinned sardines, a few
anchovies, plenty of chopped parsley and lemon juice or soft goat’s cheese,
sliced tomatoes, rocket (arugula) leaves and the Sun-dried Tomato & Chilli
Relish.
SCACCE
SCACCE
As our friend Anne Hudson pointed out when we made these together,
every culture has a version of pastry wrapped around a filling, usually
developed to eat as food on the run. Think of the Cornish pasty, the Indian
samosa, the French crêpe or the Mexican burrito. It’s a great way to use up
leftovers such as cooked sausage with onions, roasted vegetables and ricotta
or sautéed mushrooms with cheese and thyme. Our favourite flavour while
experimenting was smoked cheese with the Cherry Tomato Sauce. Scacce,
although available in a couple of shops in Palermo, are not from the same
area. They originate in the south-east of the island and are typical of the
pretty town of Modica. The recipe makes enough for two long rolls of
scacce. We have given the ingredients to make two different fillings. Scacce
keep well in a sealed bag in the fridge and are great to take on picnics.
Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter

For the dough
250 g (9 oz/2 cups) ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting or 250 g (9 oz/2 cups)
gluten-free flour and 1 teaspoon xanthan gum
3.5 g (1 heaped teaspoon) dried active yeast
1 teaspoon salt
150 ml (5 fl oz/⅔ cup) tepid water
1 tablespoon plus 2 teaspoons extra virgin olive oil
Roast aubergine and ricotta filling
250 g (9 oz/I cup) ricotta
100 g (3½ oz) roast aubergine (eggplant) (see pasta alla norma) or half the Roast
Peppers recipe
small handful of torn basil leaves
25 g (1 oz) Parmesan (if not using the Palermitana recipe), grated
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil, to drizzle over
Cherry tomato and smoked cheese filling
150 g (5 oz) Cherry Tomato Sauce
50 g (2 oz) smoked cheese, grated
1 x 125 g (4 oz) ball of mozzarella, torn into shreds
2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, to drizzle over
Put all of the dry ingredients for the dough into the bowl of a mixer and, using a
dough hook, blend together (or do this by hand in a bowl). Add 1 tablespoon of
the olive oil followed by the water, a little at a time, until you have a soft, pliable
dough that leaves the sides of the bowl clean. You may not need all of the water
– it depends upon the absorbency of the flour. If you are making a gluten-free
version, be prepared to add a little more water as necessary. Continue to knead in
the mixer or by hand for 5 minutes. Lightly oil a bowl with 1 teaspoon of the
olive oil, and transfer the ball of dough to it. Cover with cling film (plastic wrap)
and leave to rise for approximately 1–1½ hours at room temperature, or until
doubled in size.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6) and grease a baking tray with 1
teaspoon of the olive oil. Divide the dough in half and roll each half out on a
floured work surface to a rectangle roughly 50 cm (20 in) long and 30 cm (12 in)
wide. It should be just transparent. Patch up any holes or the filling will come
out. Use the rolling pin to help lift both halves, each one onto a floured tea
towel.
Use one filling for one dough half, and the other filling for the second one.
Evenly spread the filling ingredients over the dough, starting with either the
ricotta or the Cherry Tomato Sauce and layering up the rest of the ingredients,
leaving a border of around 2 cm (¾ in) clear around the edges. Drizzle the olive
oil over the filling and fold in the clean edges. Lift one long edge of the tea towel
and roll up the pastry like a fat, slightly flattened Swiss roll and place on the
baking tray. It should be around 6 cm (2½ in) wide. Wipe the surface with the
remaining oil using your fingers. Put into the oven straight away and bake for 35
minutes. Remove from the oven and allow to cool a little before eating. It can be
cooled completely and eaten cold, but it never makes it to that stage in our house
– it’s just too tempting.
ANTIPASTI
In the market in Ortigia I met an Australian woman enjoying a late breakfast of a
glass of mellow white wine and a board of antipasti: tiny samples of the local
food, such as caponata, the sweet and sour vegetable dish served in various
guises all over the island, accompanied by panelle (the Chickpea Fritters),
locally sun-dried tomatoes, olives, sliced meats and cheeses, and, typically, a
hunk of Sicilian Focaccia with Sesame Seeds. The idea of eating several dishes
at one sitting dates back to Roman times in Sicily and has changed little since.
POLPETTE DI SARDE
SARDINE PATTIES
During the period of the Bourbons, the Sicilian people couldn’t afford meat
and substituted fish for the meat in meatballs. Actually, it was probably far
healthier than the meat version and full of nutritious omega-3 fatty acids
and vitamins. Sardine patties are great for party canapés, served at room
temperature with a squeeze of lemon just before serving. Alternatively, they
can be made into the size of small hamburgers and served warm with the
Orange & Fennel Salad, the Sweet & Sour Onions or in the Cherry Tomato
Sauce as a starter or main course. Traditionally, they are deep-fried but
they work well fried in just a little oil in a non-stick frying pan; or you could
bake them in the oven to be healthier. Don’t be put off using tinned sardines
– they are as healthy as fresh and a great way to use this inexpensive source
of protein.
Makes approximately 35 patties

15 small fresh sardines (approximately 900 g/2 lb total weight) or 4 x 120 g tins
sardines
1 small onion, grated
100 g (3½ oz/1¼ cups) fresh gluten-free or wheat breadcrumbs
2 tablespoons juicy sweet currants or raisins
3 tablespoons pine nuts
large handful of mint leaves, finely chopped
large handful of parsley, finely chopped
1 heaped teaspoon salt and a good twist of freshly ground black pepper
3 tablespoons white wine or sweet marsala
seed oil for frying or extra-virgin olive oil for brushing if baking
Cut the flesh of the fresh sardines into small pieces no bigger than 5 mm (¼ in),
discarding the spines and heads. If using tinned, drain them and roughly mash
with a fork. Mix the sardines with the rest of the ingredients (except the seed oil
or olive oil for brushing).
Test the flavour of the patties by making just one to begin with. Form the
mixture into a ball in your hands, approximately 3 cm (1¼ in) across. Flatten it
slightly and fry it in a little oil on both sides until lightly golden and cooked
through. Taste and adjust the seasoning and flavours of the remaining mixture as
necessary. Make up the rest of the patties and fry in batches in more oil as
before.
To cook them in the oven, space them out on a baking tray lined with baking
parchment and brush with a little olive oil. Bake in a preheated oven at 180°C
(350°F/Gas 4) for 15–20 minutes or until cooked through.
FRITTEDDA
ARTICHOKE, BROAD BEAN & HERB CASSEROLE

This is a lovely traditional dish made with the small fresh artichokes of
spring, the first broad (fava) beans and peas of the year and wild herbs
from the fields. Since we just can’t get the same artichokes here I use tinned
or jarred artichokes and rinse them before use. If you are thinking of
cheating, do use frozen peas and broad beans. The beans are frozen when
young and tender and don’t need their shells removed. Do add the full
handful of herbs – the flavours are wonderful and it changes the dish
according to what you have. Although we have included this in the Antipasti
section, it also makes a good vegetarian or vegan lunch (if you don’t use
chicken stock and use olive oil in place of the butter). It’s good with eggs,
soft-boiled, fried or poached, and, to bump up your five-a-day, stir in a bag
of baby spinach leaves at the end and really feel virtuous.
1 onion, cut in half from root to tip and thinly sliced into half-moons
25 g (1 oz/2 tablespoons) salted or unsalted butter
150 g (5 oz) artichokes from a jar in oil, drained
200 g (7 oz) young fresh or frozen broad (fava) beans
200 g (7 oz) fresh or frozen peas
500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) chicken or vegetable stock or hot water
large handful (approximately 30 g/1 oz) of finely chopped green herbs such as
wild fennel, parsley, celery leaves, dill, mint
2 teaspoons red or white wine vinegar
100 g (3½ oz) baby spinach (optional)
Fry the onion in the butter and half of the oil with the seasoning over a medium
heat until soft. Add the rest of the ingredients (except the spinach) and bring to
the boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and continue to cook for around 15
minutes. This might seem longer than usual for young vegetables but cooking
them for longer brings out the sweetness and improves the whole dish. Towards
the end of cooking, stir in the spinach leaves to wilt, if using. Serve hot or at
room temperature with the remaining olive oil swirled over the top.
PEPERONI LUNGHI FARCITI
ROMANO PEPPERS STUFFED WITH PORK MINCE & HERBS
I have always wondered what to do with the long, slim red peppers that
appear in the shops in summer. We ate these delicious peppers stuffed with
a meat filling as part of antipasti cooked by our friend Mimmo at Osteria
Bacchus, in Sant’Ambrogio, perched on a hill just outside Cefalù. I love
herbs and have included a huge handful in this recipe, but don’t feel it has
to be made up solely of parsley – a mixture of leaves, such as rocket
(arugula), oregano, basil or celery, would do just as well.
Serves 8 as a main course or 16 as antipasti
seed oil for frying

8 long red Romano peppers
For the stuffing
100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) wholegrain brown rice
1 red onion, finely chopped
300 g (10½ oz/1⅓ cups) minced (ground) pork
finely grated zest of 1 lemon
2 eggs, beaten
50 g (2 oz) parsley, finely chopped
50 g (2 oz) Parmesan, finely grated, plus extra to taste (optional)
Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F/Gas 9). Boil the rice in salted water for 25–30
minutes until soft. Rinse in a sieve under cold running water to cool, and set
aside to drain. Meanwhile, fry the onion with some seasoning in the oil in a non-
stick frying pan until soft – this should take around 10 minutes. Transfer the
onion to a plate and allow to cool. Put all the stuffing ingredients into a bowl and
mix well with your hands. Test the mixture by rolling a small patty and frying it
in a pan with a little seed oil. If you are happy with the taste of the mixture go
ahead and stuff the peppers, or adjust the seasoning and add more cheese and
then continue.
Halve the peppers around the middle and use your fingers to pull the seeds
and core out of each cavity. Stuff the insides with the mixture. Make up any
leftover mixture into walnut-sized meatballs and cook alongside the peppers
(these are ideal for fussy children who don’t like peppers – not mentioning any
names!). Place on a baking tray and roast for 12–15 minutes or until the peppers
are lightly blackened and the pork is cooked through. To test this, pierce one of
the peppers with a skewer and make sure the juices that run out are clear and not
pink, or use a probe thermometer and check the internal temperature has reached
75°C (167°F). Allow to cool a little before serving. The peppers can be eaten as
they are with a salad, with the Sicilian Chips or a vegetable dish, or cut into rings
and served as canapés.
PARMIGIANA DI MELANZANE
BAKED AUBERGINE WITH TOMATO SAUCE & MOZZARELLA
Pat Frustaci’s grandmother Rosina Alongi was born in Sicily and emigrated
to the US in the early 1900s. She cooked every day, even when she turned
101. According to her, the true Italian dish was aubergine (eggplant)
parmigiana. She liked to claim that Sicilians created the dish because of the
abundance of aubergines grown in the region, but offered the possibility
that it was invented in Parma, Italy, where the cheese originated. Pat’s
guess is that even today the two regions are probably still arguing over the
ownership of this fabulous dish.
This is Giancarlo’s version, which we sell in our restaurant Caffè Caldesi.
We don’t fry the aubergines or coat them in breadcrumbs as we find our
customers prefer the lighter version (and this way the recipe is gluten-free).
However, you will see variations on a theme throughout Sicily: some recipes
use a batter or breadcrumbs, and others simply fry the aubergines after a
light dusting in flour. There is no need to salt the long purple variety as any
bitterness was bred out of them years ago.
Serves 8
6 aubergines (eggplants), topped and tailed and cut lengthways into 1 cm (½ in)
thick, even slices
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil for brushing
1 quantity of Cherry Tomato Sauce, blended until smooth
250 g (9 oz) cow’s milk mozzarella, drained and cut into 5 mm (¼ in) cubes
100 g (3½ oz) Parmesan, finely grated
20 basil leaves
parchment. Brush the aubergine slices with the olive oil and season lightly and
evenly on both sides. Lay them on the baking tray and roast in the oven for 12–
15 minutes or until lightly browned. Remove from the oven and turn the heat
down to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4).
Pour one-quarter of the tomato sauce into an ovenproof dish measuring
approximately 25 x 25 cm (10 x 10 in) and lay over one-quarter of the aubergine
slices. Top with a quarter of the mozzarella, Parmesan and basil leaves. Repeat
three times more, finishing with a layer of the two cheeses. Bake in the oven for
45–60 minutes.
RICOTTA CONDITA/PESTO DI POMODORI SECCHI E PEPERONCINO
RICOTTA WITH BASIL

This makes a really useful base of flavourful ricotta. In the morning in
Sicily you can get freshly made, still-warm sheep’s milk ricotta. However,
this recipe makes even the supermarket variety taste as good. Top a bowl of
hot pasta with spoonfuls of it, eat it on toast with the Sun-dried Tomato &
Chilli Relish below or stir it into the Sausage & Wild Fennel Ragu.
Makes 125 g (4 oz), enough for 8 medium crostini or 4 bowls of

pasta
100 g (3½ oz/⅓ cup) ricotta

1 generous tablespoon double (heavy) cream or whole milk
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil handful of finely chopped basil leaves salt and
freshly ground black pepper
Mix the ingredients together in a bowl and adjust the seasoning to taste.
SUN-DRIED TOMATO & CHILLI RELISH
I bought a tub of this useful paste at the market in Ortigia. The lady at the
stand explained how it could be used. It makes a lovely relish to eat with the
Ricotta with Basil recipe above and hot sourdough toast, or you can spread
a layer onto a fillet of fish before grilling, spoon over roasted cauliflower
florets or simply stir into pasta and top with finely grated pecorino or
Parmesan cheese (see the photo). The fennel seeds and chilli give a little
spice and heat to the paste.
Serves 6 for fish and 12 for crostini with Ricotta with Basil (above)
1 teaspoon fennel seeds

100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) sun-dried tomatoes, drained of oil
pinch of chilli flakes, to taste
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil fine salt (optional)
Soak the fennel seeds in hot water for 10 minutes to soften, then drain. Chop the
seeds, tomatoes and chilli together on a board with a large cook’s knife until you
have a coarse paste. Spoon the paste into a bowl and add the oil. Taste and add a
little salt if necessary. You probably won’t need any as sun-dried tomatoes are
salted when dried.
TORTA DI BIETOLE E FORMAGGIO DI CAPRA
NAKED WILD CHARD PIE WITH GOAT’S CHEESE
Wild leaves such as chard, chicory, rocket (arugula) and other nutritious
herbs are collected in bundles by foraging Sicilians. We might not be so
lucky to find wild alternatives here in the UK, so you will be pleased to
know a bag of spinach leaves freshly gathered from the local supermarket
will suffice. In the right season, I find this an ideal way to use up my rather
dog-eared spinach or chard from our garden glut. Alternatively, use the soft
leaves from young spring greens or a mixture of them all. The recipe comes
from our friend Ada, who runs the beautiful hotel Monaci delle Terre Nere
on the slopes of Mount Etna. They grow their own organic vegetables on the
fertile black earth. Ada loves healthy Mediterranean recipes and makes this
pie without a pastry crust, which is why it’s ‘naked’!
Serves 4
butter, for greasing

1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) chard leaves (tough stems discarded before weighing)
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 eggs
200 g (7 oz) goat’s cheese
100 g (3½ oz) grana padano, grated
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3) and butter a 24 cm (9½ in) loose-
bottomed cake tin or line a flan tin with baking parchment.
Bring a large pot of water to the boil while you wash the chard. When the
water is boiling, salt it generously and add the chard leaves. Blanch the chard for
5 minutes (if you are using spinach instead it might only need a minute or two),
drain thoroughly and chop medium-fine. Heat the oil in a large frying pan and
add the garlic. Fry for just 30 seconds, making sure the garlic doesn’t burn, then
add the chard. Fry for a couple of minutes, tossing frequently to coat the chard in
the garlicky oil, and season to taste. Remove from the heat, transfer to a large
mixing bowl and set aside.
Blend together the eggs, goat’s cheese, grana padano and some seasoning.
You can do this in a bowl with a fork or much more quickly in a food processor.
Stir in the chard to combine.
Pour into the prepared tin and bake in the preheated oven for 25 minutes or
until firm to the touch. Allow to cool for 5 minutes, then remove the pie from the
tin. Eat straight away or allow to come to room temperature. The pie is lovely
with a light salad, on its own with bread or served with the Cherry Tomato
Sauce.
CAPONATA ALLA VINCENZO
SWEET & SOUR AUBERGINES
This brightly coloured, almost jewel-like version of caponata was our

favourite as we toured the island. This dish is all about achieving the correct
balance between sweet and sour; care should be taken when adding the
vinegar and sugar. Vincenzo Clemente, who owns the Cin Cin restaurant in
Palermo, got the balance just right and taught us his version. At one point,
he told us, caponata was covered with cocoa powder as a deterrent against
flies. Too much and it is bitter but a little enriches the dish. He likes to serve
this with octopus or swordfish but it is also good with bread, panelle (the
Chickpea Fritters), cheese or sliced meats.
Caponata di pesce, made with tuna or swordfish, was originally a dish for
the wealthy but the Sicilian poor replaced the fish with aubergines
(eggplants). Salting is not necessary with the modern deep-purple variety as
they are no longer bitter. Traditionally the aubergines are fried but we
prefer to roast them in the oven.
Serves 8
2 large aubergines (eggplants)
sunflower oil for deep-frying or 2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for roasting
salt and ground white or black pepper
1 celery heart and leaves, roughly cut in 1 cm (½ in) cubes
50 g (2 oz/¼ cup) stoned green olives, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons capers in salt, rinsed
200 g (7 oz/1 cup) tinned whole tomatoes, roughly chopped
2 heaped tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar
3–4 tablespoons white wine vinegar
To serve
cocoa powder
toasted almonds or pine nuts
a few mint leaves
Top and tail the aubergines, removing a few strips of the skin along the length of
each one as Vincenzo thinks too much skin makes the caponata bitter and
chewy. Cut them into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes. Either deep-fry them in the sunflower
oil until crisp and light brown, then drain on kitchen paper. Or, if roasting, toss
the aubergines in a bowl with the 2 tablespoons of olive oil and some salt and
pepper, then spread them out on a baking tray lined with baking parchment and
cook in a preheated oven at 180°C (350°F/Gas 4) for around 20 minutes or until
crisp at the edges and golden brown.
Sweat the onion and garlic in the 4 tablespoons of olive oil in a large frying
pan with the celery, some salt and pepper and a little water over a low flame
with the lid on. Check and stir frequently until the onion is soft – this will
probably take 15–20 minutes.
Add the olives, capers and tomatoes to the celery in the frying pan and stir
through. Turn up the heat to bring the mixture to a boil and add the sugar and 3
tablespoons of the vinegar. Stir and let the vinegar evaporate for 5 minutes.
Taste and adjust the balance accordingly for sweet and sour, adding more
vinegar if necessary. Remove the garlic.
Pour the celery mixture over the fried aubergines and allow the dish to come
to room temperature before serving. The flavour improves further if it is
refrigerated overnight and reheated the next day. However, always allow the
caponata to come to room temperature before serving, and add a scattering of
cocoa powder, toasted nuts or mint leaves as you wish.
PESCE CRUDE AL SALMORIGLIO
RAW SEA BASS WITH A MINT & LEMON DRESSING
Raw fish dishes are enjoyed all over Italy as so much of the country lies on
the coast. To eat fish raw it should be very fresh or previously commercially
frozen at very low temperatures – this process kills any parasites, if you are
concerned. We asked the chef-patron Carlo, at Apollonion restaurant in
Ortigia, what was important about pesce crudo dishes. ‘You must taste the
fish and not the vinegar,’ he told us; the marinade should be leggera, weak,
so as not to dominate the subtle flavour of the fish straight from the market
that morning. This recipe from Caterina Valentino at Il Palladio restaurant
in Giardini Naxos features the ubiquitous salmoriglio dressing used for
cooked fish as well as raw. Try adding little cubes of fruit such as peach,
melon or strawberry give it a summery feel. The lemon juice ‘cooks’ thinly
cut fish in minutes, turning it from translucent pinkish grey to opaque
white.
Serves 6 as a starter
1 red onion, very finely sliced into rings
4 × 125 g (4 oz) fillets of very fresh sea bream, sea bass or haddock, pin-boned
and skinned
¼–½ red chilli, according to taste, finely chopped
small handful of mint leaves, roughly chopped
1 quantity of Salmoriglio dressing
Put the red onion slices into a bowl of cold water for around 15 minutes to
reduce their strength of flavour. Slice the fish with a sharp knife at a 45 degree
angle across the fillet so that you end up with pieces about 3 mm (⅛ in) thick.
Lay the slices onto serving plates. Drain the onions and briefly dry on kitchen
paper. Scatter the onions, chilli and mint over the fish. At this point, the plates
can be stored in the fridge.
When ready to serve, season the fish evenly and pour over the dressing. Leave
it for around 5 minutes at room temperature. The longer you leave the dressing
on the fish, the more it will be ‘cooked’ by the acidity, so serve straight away or
leave a little longer for a more ‘cooked’ texture.
FORMAGGIO AL FORNO CON ALICI E BUCCIA DI LIMONE
BAKED CHEESE WITH ANCHOVIES & LEMON ZEST

On a cold evening in Palermo, we huddled into the welcoming Osteria Dei
Vespri and warmed ourselves up with glasses of Nero d’Avola red wine and
an antipasto of hot melting cheese in a terracotta dish with the local sesame
focaccia (see Sfincione finto). They had used tuma, a firm mature sheep’s
cheese that melts when heated but holds its shape. The cheese is cut in half
and filled with the sauce like a sandwich – if you can find the cheese, do try
it this way. However, as tuma is hard to get in most shops we have adapted
this very easy recipe to use the more widely available halloumi instead.
Serves 4
2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained

finely grated zest of ½ lemon
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
225 g (8 oz) halloumi cheese
Heat a non-stick pan over a high heat. Mash the anchovies, oregano and zest
with a fork in a small bowl with the oil until you have a paste. Cut the cheese
into 1 cm (½ in) slices. Dry-fry the slices in the hot pan until lightly blackened
on one side. Turn the slices over and brush on a thin layer of the anchovy paste
while the slices are still in the pan. When the underside is just blackened, remove
from the pan and serve straight away with fresh crusty bread and, if you have
some, the Roast Peppers Palermo Style.
SOUPS
A bowl of velvety soup warms and fills you up and is like a big cuddle. Soups
made from grains, legumes, vegetables and wild greens have been on the staple
peasant menu for centuries when there was little else available. It was probably a
very healthy way to eat even if it did leave them yearning for meat and fish.
Beans have always been referred to as poor man’s meat, because they are a rich
source of protein. Now pasta is such a big part of the Mediterranean diet, there is
a choice of soup or pasta as primi piatti, first course.
MACCU DI FAVE
BROAD BEAN & FENNEL SEED SOUP
Above: Broad Bean & Fennel Seed Soup. Below: Chickpea & Apple Soup
Dried broad (fava) beans have a distinctive, earthy flavour and a velvety
texture unlike their former fresh selves. Do try them, I think the taste is
perfectly lovely. In the south of Italy you can find a broad been purée
probably introduced by the Romans, cooked from dried like this and served
with the wilted green vegetable cicoria, another wonderful combination and
easily reproduced with spinach.
In Sicily, you will see the word maccu on menus all over the island; it
comes from the word macare, to squash. Broad beans have been a staple of
the peasant diet for centuries since they can be eaten fresh and raw in
spring with young soft cheeses, boiled briefly through summer and dried for
use in autumn and winter. In this case, dried broad beans are soaked
overnight, then boiled and squashed to make a mash. If you use split broad
beans they will have already been peeled and will take less time to cook.
Leave it rough and ready like the ancient peasant soup that it was, or purée
it for a sophisticated starter like our friend Marco Piraino, who showed me
this recipe. He garnishes it with chopped samphire, drops of good olive oil
and a little lemon zest.
To make it more filling (it’s already pretty substantial!), put toasted
bread drizzled with olive oil into soup bowls and ladle the soup on top, or
leave the soup a little rough and mix in some just-cooked short pasta. The
maccu sets firm when cold and can be cut into slices, breaded and fried.
Use 3 Ways
As a
vegetable,
soup, sliced &
fried
Serves 6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2 cups) dried broad (fava) beans, with or without skins
1 white onion, cut in half
2 teaspoons fennel seeds, roughly crushed in a pestle and mortar
1 celery stalk, finely sliced
1.6 litres (54 fl oz/6¾ cups) water
4 tablespoons white wine
salt, to taste
To serve
a little chopped samphire or finely grated lemon zest
Cover the beans in cold water and soak overnight. The following day, drain the
beans and discard the water. Slip the beans from their skins if not already peeled.
Put all the ingredients together in a medium saucepan and bring to the boil.
Turn the heat to low and let the beans bubble away until they are tender and
easily squashed, up to 2 hours, adding a little more water if necessary. Keep a
couple of tablespoons of the whole beans to one side for garnish. Purée the soup
as much or as little as you like with a stick blender. Pour into warm bowls and
garnish with the reserved beans, a swirl of olive oil and the lemon zest or
chopped samphire. Finish with a twist of black pepper.
Variations:
As a vegetable side dish
As the beans are cooking, don’t add extra water but let the mixture become
thick. Purée the mixture to a rough or smooth texture and use it as you would
mashed potato. In the south of Italy you will often see this served with garlicky
sautéed spinach or chard leaves on top.
For sliced maccu
After blending the soup pour it into a lined loaf tin and allow to cool. Put it into
the fridge overnight and it will set firm. It can then be cut into 1.5 cm (½ in)
slices and dipped in flour, egg and breadcrumbs (like the Chicken Parmigiana)
and fried in hot oil until browned. Drain it on kitchen paper and serve straight
away, dusted in a little salt.
ZUPPA DI CECI E MELE
CHICKPEA & APPLE SOUP

This unusual sweet-tasting and textural soup is from our chef friend Marco
Piraino from Palermo. It makes a gorgeous first course or lunchtime meal.
Chickpeas are a very good source of protein, fibre and minerals and have
formed an important part of the Italian diet for centuries (see photo).
Serves 6
250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) dried chickpeas

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to serve
1 leek, trimmed and finely chopped
2 apples, peeled and roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
1 garlic clove, peeled, cored and crushed
3 litres (102 fl oz/12¾ cups) water or chicken or vegetable stock
Cover the chickpeas in cold water and soak overnight. The following day drain
them and discard the water. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the leek for 5
minutes over a medium heat until softened, then add the rest of the ingredients
and stir through. Cook until the chickpeas are soft, which should take around 1½
hours but could be up to 2½ hours depending on how old they are. Add a little
more hot water if it starts to dry out. You can blend the soup as much or as little
as you like with a stick blender in the saucepan. Check the seasoning and adjust
as necessary. Pour the soup into warm bowls and finish with a swirl of good
olive oil and a twist of black pepper.
ZUPPA DI RISO E POMODORO
TOMATO & RICE SOUP

Originally all rice was brown, before mills were designed to remove the
husk and polish the grains. It is much better for you as it is the whole grain
and I much prefer the taste of brown rice. This is real peasant soup; add
what vegetables are in season or what you have at the back of the fridge.
The soup is fabulous on its own but with the topping it’s sublime. The
breadcrumbs were a way of mimicking grated cheese on a dish when
poverty made this unaffordable. I was really impressed by the use of the
Sicilian estrattu, a seriously concentrated salty tomato purée, on our visits
there. It is an ingredient like Worcestershire sauce in the UK or soy sauce in
Asia – it just makes everything taste better. We have replaced it with
tomato purée (tomato paste) but if you are on a trip to Sicily do grab some;
it is so rich and deep in wonderful umami flavour. As it is salty, don’t add
any salt to the cooking if you are using it.
Serves 6–8
1 large onion, roughly chopped

3 celery stalks, roughly chopped
3 small carrots, roughly chopped
2 tablespoons chicken fat or 2 tablespoons more of olive oil
½ teaspoon chilli flakes (optional)
2 tablespoons estrattu or tomato purée (tomato paste)
2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) warm chicken or vegetable stock
150 g (5 oz/¾ cup) brown rice
1 x 400 g tin whole plum tomatoes
2 bay leaves
1 piece of Parmesan rind (optional)
100 g (3½ oz) baby spinach leaves
For the breadcrumb topping
1 small handful of parsley
1 slice gluten-free or wheat bread
1 small garlic clove, peeled
35 g (1¼ oz) Parmesan, finely grated
Fry the onion, celery and carrots in the oil and chicken fat (if using) in a large
saucepan over a medium heat until they start to soften. Season well with salt and
pepper and the chilli flakes, if using. In a small bowl soften the estrattu with a
little of the warm stock. Add to the pan with the remaining stock, the rice,
tomatoes, bay leaves and rind of Parmesan, if using. Use a potato masher to
break up the tomatoes to a pulp. Leave to cook for around 25 minutes or until the
rice is cooked and softened.
Meanwhile, make the breadcrumbs for the topping. Preheat the oven to 180°C
(350°F/Gas 4). Whizz the parsley with the bread, garlic and some seasoning in a
food processor to make fine breadcrumbs. Pour them into a bowl and stir
through the Parmesan and olive oil. Spread onto a baking tray and cook in the
oven for 5–7 minutes or until the breadcrumbs become crunchy. Remove from
the oven and tip onto a plate to cool.
When the rice is cooked, stir in the spinach leaves – they will wilt easily in the
heat. Serve the soup in warmed bowls topped with the breadcrumbs.
ZUPPA DI DUE METÀ
A SOUP OF TWO HALVES

This soup is a bright green bowlful of health and flavour. It’s perfect for
using up any greens lurking in your fridge, or if you have a glut of leafy veg.
Use both the white and soft green parts of the spring onions or leeks to
make the base. My inspiration came from the tenerumi soup so enjoyed in
late summer and made with the leaves of the long green courgettes
(zucchini). To serve, we like to grate feta cheese on top in place of salted
ricotta, add a pile of (bell) peppers and then scatter over herbs in two halves
so that you can have a mouthful of soup with wild fennel or dill or one with
mint. It makes a great talking point at the table as people debate which one
they prefer.
Serves 6–8
2 red or yellow (bell) peppers

1 bunch of spring onions (15–20 g/½–¾ oz) or 2 leeks, trimmed and roughly
chopped
1 celery heart with leaves, roughly chopped (25 g/1 oz)
3 garlic cloves, peeled
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) assorted leaves such as spinach, carrot tops, baby kale, chard,
parsley, rocket (arugula), watercress, lettuce (or peas)
25 g (1 oz) parsley leaves and stalks, roughly chopped
25 g (1 oz/1 cup) basil leaves
1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) stock, such as vegetable or light chicken, or water
To serve
200 g (7 oz/¾ cup) salted ricotta or feta
handful of two different herbs, such as dill or wild fennel, mint or basil or
coriander (cilantro) or chervil or sweet cicely
extra-virgin olive oil
Preheat the oven to 220°C (425°F/Gas 7). Place the peppers on a baking tray and
cook in the oven to blacken them – this should take around 20 minutes. Transfer
them to a bowl and cover with cling film (plastic wrap) to sweat and cool.
Meanwhile, fry the onions or leeks, celery and garlic in the oil in a large
saucepan over a gentle heat for around 10 minutes or until the vegetables have
begun to soften.
Add the leaves and herbs and stir through. Pour in the stock and bring to the
boil. Reduce the heat to a simmer and allow the leaves to soften for around 5
minutes.
At this point, peel the peppers under cold running water, deseed, roughly chop
and set aside. Remove the soup from the heat and blend using a stick blender. If
you use a blender or food processor, blend in batches so that hot soup doesn’t
leak out. Check the seasoning and serve straight away, or allow to cool and store
in the fridge until you need it. It will keep for 3 days in the fridge.
Serve the soup in wide bowls with ricotta or feta grated over and a pile of the
roasted peppers on top. Sprinkle the herbs in two different areas, give a final
twist of black pepper and a swirl of good extra-virgin olive oil and serve. Ask
your guests to guess the flavour. They will probably say different things
depending on where they start eating!
POLPETTINE IN BRODO
MEATBALLS IN BROTH
We saw these tiny meatballs ready-made and for sale in a butcher’s shop in
Scicli. The butcher explained they were for a soup. I thought it sounded
delicious. Also in Scicli is La Grotta, a cave-dwelling restaurant, where we
ate this fabulous soup and begged the owner Angelo for his recipe. This is a
meal in its own right, particularly if you serve it with hunks of crusty bread
or add 75 g (2½ oz) rice or tiny pasta shapes such as stelline, ‘little stars’, to
the stock. You can add vegetables if you like, and you can stir in spinach
leaves or shredded kale at the end for a green finale.
Serves 4 (makes 25–30 balls around 3 cm/1¼ in wide)
For the stock

1 carrot, roughly chopped
1 celery stalk and leaves from the heart, roughly chopped
1 onion, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig of rosemary
cooked chicken carcass or meat bones (optional)
2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) hot water
For the meatballs
250 g (9 oz/1 cup) minced (ground) beef or pork, or a mixture of the two or
cooked meat or stuffing
30 g (1 oz/scant ¼ cup) fresh breadcrumbs, made from gluten-free or wheat
bread
1 shallot, very finely chopped or grated
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1 heaped tablespoon finely chopped parsley
1–2 eggs
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil for frying
For the green breadcrumbs
100 g (3½ oz) stale gluten-free or wheat bread, crusts removed
small handful of parsley
1 tablespoon chopped celery leaves (optional)
½ tablespoon rosemary needles
25 g (1 oz) grated Parmesan, to serve
First make the stock by frying the vegetables with the herbs, and the bones if you
have them, in the oil until lightly browned and just starting to stick on the bottom
of the saucepan. Pour in the water and bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to
medium and let the stock simmer gently while you make the meatballs. Remove
the rosemary after 20 minutes.
Combine the ingredients for the meatballs in a bowl with your hands. If you
are using cooked meat or stuffing, you may need a second egg to bind the
mixture together. Make one small meatball and flatten slightly. Fry it in a frying
pan with a little of the oil and taste to make sure you are happy with the
seasoning. If not, adjust the mixture accordingly. Then make up the rest of the
meatballs – they should be just smaller than a walnut as they swell in the broth
when cooking. Remove the bones, if using, from the broth with a pair of tongs
and discard.
Fry the meatballs briefly in the remaining oil until browned all over then lift
out with a slotted spoon and add to the stock. Cook for 15–20 minutes until the
meatballs are cooked through. Taste the broth and adjust the seasoning as
necessary.
To make the breadcrumbs, whizz the ingredients together in a food processor
until they have a coarse, sandy texture. Season to taste and whizz again. The
breadcrumbs can be mixed with a couple of tablespoons of olive oil and fried or
oven baked for a crunchy texture or left soft.
Serve the soup in warm bowls with the green breadcrumbs and Parmesan on
the side, ready to sprinkle over.
CONTORNI
Any well-travelled vegetarian will tell you Sicily offers no problems for the
plant-based eater. So many interesting dishes are constructed purely from
vegetables.
As necessity is the mother of invention, the poor, during Sicily’s centuries of

poverty, would use vegetables to imitate the dishes of the rich: aubergines
(eggplants) were thinly sliced to emulate veal escalopes or fillets of fish, and
pumpkin used instead of liver. Freely gathered herbs such as wild fennel are
used abundantly in the Sicilian kitchen. The seeds from its yellow blooms are
dried to use in winter, along with tiny oregano leaves and their intricate flowers.
Wild leaves like chard, rocket (arugula) and chicory have traditionally been
gathered by foragers and you can still see people doing this for their own
purposes or to sell at a market.
Angelo, the chef-patron at La Grotta restaurant in Scicli, told us that the local
shepherds would be away for a week at a time looking after their sheep. They
would take a satchel of bread (after a week you could still eat it), onions and
cheese, and perhaps supplement these with local wild leaves and herbs along the
way. How simple and most likely wonderful to eat.
Having written our book Around the World in Salads you might say I have
become a bit obsessed with salad. There are times when I just yearn for raw,
fresh, crisp leaves and lots of vegetables. Since Giancarlo and our son Giorgio
can no longer have gluten in their diets, eating more vegetables has changed the
way we live and eat.
ZUCCHINI AL SALMORIGLIO
COURGETTE RIBBONS IN LEMON & OREGANO DRESSING
Salmoriglio is used all over Sicily, mainly for dressing fish, and each cook
has their own special way of making it. We loved this version made by
Caterina at the Palladio hotel in Giardini Naxos; she uses it on courgettes
(zucchini) thinly sliced into almost transparent ribbons, but you could
spiralise them if you have the gadget. This sauce has revolutionised the way
we eat vegetables – you can use it over steamed cauliflower, carrot ribbons,
mangetout (snow peas) or sugar snap peas. The salting and sauce allow the
vegetables to keep well in the fridge for a couple of days and they make a
really healthy and delicious snack when you are feeling peckish. The
salmoriglio sauce will keep for up to four days.
Serves 4–6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) courgettes (zucchini) (around 4 medium)

1 teaspoon salt
juice of 1 lemon
freshly ground black pepper, to serve
For the dressing
large handful (approximately 15 g/½ oz) of parsley
1 heaped teaspoon dried or fresh oregano
Wash the courgettes and trim away the tops and tails. Use a potato peeler to slice
them into ribbons. I usually do this until it becomes hard to hold them, then I lay
the courgettes on a board and continue to scrape away without the fear of injury.
Put the ribbons into a bowl with the salt and lemon juice. Toss with your hands
to combine and set aside for 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, make the dressing. Finely chop the parsley and garlic together on
a board with a large cook’s knife and put into a bowl. Pour over 3 tablespoons of
boiling water and add the oregano. Use the back of a spoon to press the herbs
and garlic down in the water – this helps to release the essential oils and adds to
the flavour. Pour in the oil and set aside to cool.
Take the courgettes from their bowl and give them a gentle squeeze in your
fist to rid them of excess water. Put them into a large mixing bowl. Pour over the
dressing and, using tongs, toss to combine. Serve straight away on a platter and
sprinkle over a little freshly crushed black pepper.
CAVOLFIORE ALLA CHIANTI
CAULIFLOWER IN RED WINE

This unusual combination of flavours adds up to much more than the sum
of its parts. The recipe was given to me by Gino Borella, an Italian chef of
great standing who worked for a while with a Sicilian chef who taught him
this in his youth. I suspect it is one of those Sicilian dishes that was
developed by the poor: having only vegetables to work with, this is what
they came up with instead of meat in red wine sauce, and jolly delicious it is,
too.
Try it with roast meat, or enjoy it on its own like a chunky soup in a bowl
or mixed with cannellini beans or on top of brown rice. I’ve also served it as
part of a spread of antipasti. Always serve it warm with bread to mop up
the wonderfully umami juices.
Serves 4–6

600–700 g (1 lb 5 oz–1 lb 8 oz) cauliflower, broken into walnut-sized florets
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) red wine
1 tablespoon tomato purée (tomato paste)
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) vegetable stock or water
salt (optional) and freshly ground black pepper
50 g (2 oz/½ stick) salted butter small bunch of parsley, chopped
Finely chop the anchovies and garlic together on a board. Heat the oil in a large
frying pan and fry the anchovy mixture over a low heat for a few minutes until
the anchovies dissolve. Do keep the heat low so as not to burn the garlic.
Meanwhile, parboil the cauliflower for 3 minutes in boiling salted water.
Drain and add to the frying pan. Keep tossing the cauliflower so that the florets
are well covered with the anchovy mixture and cook for about 5 minutes, taking
care not to let it burn, then add the wine and bring to the boil.
Add the tomato purée, stock and black pepper. Boil again for a couple of
minutes, then stir in the butter and, when melted, reduce the temperature to a
slow simmer for 10–15 minutes until the cauliflower is cooked through. Check
the seasoning and add more pepper and some salt if necessary. Stir in the parsley
and serve.
MELANZANE IN AGRODOLCE CON MANDORLE TOSTATE
SWEET & SOUR AUBERGINES WITH TOASTED ALMONDS

This richly coloured and flavoured vegetable dish goes perfectly with fried
or grilled (broiled) meats. It is similar to Caponata but rather quicker to
make. Traditionally, the aubergines (eggplants) are fried but we have
roasted them for a healthier twist (see for photo).
Serves 4–6
2 aubergines (eggplants)
50 g (2 oz) blanched, unblanched or flaked almonds
3 tablespoons tomato purée (tomato paste)
150 ml (5 fl oz/⅔ cup) water
2 tablespoons white or red wine vinegar
3 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar small handful of mint leaves, to serve
parchment. Top and tail the aubergines, cut into finger-size sticks and place in a
large bowl. Drizzle over 2 tablespoons of the oil and toss to coat with a little
seasoning. Lay the aubergine sticks on the baking tray and roast in the oven for
15–20 minutes until browned at the edges and soft. Toast the almonds in a dry
frying pan (skillet) or a hot oven for up to 10 minutes or until golden brown and
set aside to cool before roughly chopping.
Meanwhile, fry the shallot in the remaining oil in a frying pan until soft and
then add the tomato purée, water, vinegar, sugar and some salt. Bring to the boil
and then turn down the heat to low and simmer, uncovered, for around 20
minutes. It is really important to adjust the balance of sweet and sour to your
taste as well as the amount of salt. Remove the sauce from the heat and add the
aubergines, stir through and serve straight away or allow to cool to room
temperature. Scatter over the almonds and mint leaves before serving.
PEPERONI ALLA PALERMITANA
ROAST PEPPERS PALERMO STYLE
These colourful sweet (bell) peppers are excellent as a side dish to

accompany eggs, baked fish and grilled (broiled) meats or as part of a
spread of antipasti. Marco Piraino, our chef friend from Palermo, showed
me this local way of cooking them. Sicilians use a lot of dry, fine
breadcrumbs as they were meant to imitate grated Parmesan by the poor.
Any breadcrumbs will work for this recipe. In fact, larger breadcrumbs
from a fresh sourdough loaf make a wonderfully crunchy topping instead of
fine.
Serves 6–8
2 red and 2 yellow (bell) peppers, seeded and cut into thin strips
4 tablespoons raisins
30 g (1 oz) Pecorino Siciliano or Parmesan, finely grated
30 g (1 oz/scant ⅓ cup) fine dry breadcrumbs (can be gluten-free)
1 tablespoon dried oregano
parchment. Mix the peppers, onion, oil, some seasoning, pine nuts and raisins
together in a bowl to combine. Pour the mixture onto the baking tray and cook in
the oven for 40–45 minutes or until it is slightly crisp.
Meanwhile, stir the cheese, breadcrumbs and oregano together and 5 minutes
before the end of the cooking time remove the tray from the oven and scatter
over the peppers. Give a rough stir through and put back into the oven to brown.
When the peppers are slightly browned on the edges and soft the dish is ready to
serve, either piping hot or cooled to room temperature.
PATATINE ALLA SICILIANA
SICILIAN CHIPS
Inspired by our recent trips in search of Sicilian flavours, I found myself

adding oregano to almost everything. We love these potatoes cooked in this
way and enjoy them with fish or meat – our son Flavio would eat the lot just
as they are! Oregano is sold in bunches in Sicilian markets, so do bring
some back with you if you are visiting. Keep it in the bag and simply roll it
between your hands to release the tiny dried leaves. Olives bought with the
stone in always taste better; just squash them with the flat of a large knife to
release the stone. If you can’t find Italian olives, Kalamata olives from
Greece are just as good. If you are going for a more sophisticated look, cut
the potatoes into discs around 5 mm (¼ in) thick instead of chips.
Serves 4–6
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into chips

1 onion, cut from root to tip and sliced into half-moons the same width as the
chips
2 teaspoons dried oregano
150 g (5 oz) cherry tomatoes, cut in half handful of good-quality black olives,
stoned and split open (optional)
parchment. Toss the ingredients together in a bowl and spread them out evenly
on the baking tray. Bake for 30–35 minutes or until golden brown and cooked
through. Remove from the oven and transfer to a warm serving dish. Serve hot.
ZUCCA IN AGRODOLCE
SWEET & SOUR PUMPKIN

Like many Sicilian dishes that use vegetables instead of meat, this recipe is
an adaptation by the poor man of the wealthy man’s food. Pumpkin was
supposed to be the vegetable equivalent of liver, in a sweet and sour sauce.
Do use pumpkin or butternut squash for the recipe. I like to leave the skins
on if using squash. Sometimes, though, I do cheat and buy the bags of
ready-cut slices of squash, in which case they may take less time to cook.
This is good with fish or meat dishes, or as part of a spread of antipasti.
Serves 6
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) pumpkin or butternut squash, sliced into 1 cm (½ in) thick

wedges
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper
2 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly sliced small handful of mint leaves
1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar
2 tablespoons white wine vinegar
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). In a bowl toss the pumpkin in 3
tablespoons of the oil and add some seasoning. Lay the wedges on a baking tray
in a single layer and roast in the oven for up to 30–35 minutes or until they are
lightly browned and soft all the way through. Remove from the oven and use
tongs to transfer the pumpkin to a shallow serving dish.
Pour any leftover oil from the tray into a frying pan and add the remaining oil.
Add the garlic to the pan and fry gently over a medium heat for a few minutes.
Add most of the mint to the pan, keeping aside a little for garnish. Pour in the
caster sugar and vinegar and allow them to bubble for a couple of minutes. Taste
the sauce to check the balance of sweet and sour, and adjust accordingly. Pour
over the pumpkin wedges and allow the dish to sit at room temperature for at
least 1 hour before serving. The pumpkin will keep in the fridge for around 3
days but do bring it to room temperature before serving, scattered with the
remaining mint.
BROCCOLI PICCANTi CON MANDORLE TOSTATE
PURPLE SPROUTING BROCCOLI WITH SPICY ALMOND CRUNCH
Sicilians love their cruciferous vegetables and throughout the year there will
always be one available such as broccoli, cauliflower or Romanesco. This
crunchy topping will work with any of these. My favourite is purple
sprouting broccoli as it is full of flavour, cooks quickly and makes its
welcome first appearance in late winter/early spring while most other young
greens are still fast asleep.
Serves 6–8
400 g (14 oz) purple sprouting broccoli

3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil salt and freshly ground black pepper
For the topping
25 g (1 oz/¼ cup) flaked almonds
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
finely grated zest of ¼ lemon
pinch of chilli flakes or chopped fresh chilli
First make the topping by toasting the almonds in a hot oven (preheated to
around 200°C/400°F/Gas 6) for 5 minutes or in a dry pan until lightly browned.
Remove from the heat and leave to cool. Blitz briefly in a food processor or
roughly chop by hand. Transfer to a bowl and combine with the garlic, lemon
zest and chilli.
Trim any very tough stems from the ends of the broccoli florets and cut any
large ones in half lengthways. Steam or boil the florets for 3–4 minutes until just
tender. Drain and transfer to a warm serving dish. Toss with the oil, salt and
pepper to taste and then with the spicy almonds. Serve straight away.
INSALATA DI CUSCUS DA MANDRANOVA
CITRUS COUSCOUS SALAD FROM MANDRANOVA

This recipe is based on one from Silvia Di Vincenzo from the beautiful
agriturismo Mandranova on an olive tree estate near Agrigento. We went to
stay there during one of our tours of the island and it happened to be just
after the olives were pressed. At Mandranova, the oil is everything and
rightly so. When we were there, Silvia’s husband Giuseppe had just
produced the new oil of the year – it was bright green and fruity with a full-
bodied intensity and the flavour of newly-mown grass and tomatoes, thanks
to the large green Nocellara olives used to make it. Silvia loves to use her
homemade oil in her cooking, and each one imparts a different flavour to
the dish.
Serves 6–8
5 spring onions, roughly chopped into 1 cm (½ in) lengths

150 g (5 oz/generous ⅔ cup) wheat or maize couscous
50 g (2 oz/½ cup) flaked almonds
50 g (2 oz/½ cup) pine nuts
50 g (2 oz/⅓ cup) stoned green olives, roughly chopped
150 g (5 oz) leaves, such as basil, parsley, rocket (arugula), celery and coriander
(cilantro), roughly chopped
For the dressing
5 tablespoons fruity extra-virgin olive oil
juice of 1 lemon
juice of 1 orange
1 teaspoon runny honey
Preheat the oven 200°C/400°F/Gas 6.

Soak the spring onions in cold water for 15 minutes to reduce the strength.
Soak the couscous in hot water or stock according to the packet instructions. Put
the nuts on a baking tray and brown in the oven for 5–7 minutes. When golden
tip onto a plate to cool.
To make the dressing, stir the ingredients together in a small bowl, seasoning
to taste.
Fluff up the couscous with a fork, fold in the remaining ingredients and the
dressing. Adjust the seasoning as necessary and serve at room temperature.
INSALATA DI ARANCIA E LIMONE
LEMON & ORANGE SALAD

The shell-shaped area of Palermo is called the Conca d’Oro, which means
‘golden shell’. It is where the Arabs started growing lemon trees. It is said
that the Mafia took root here, when the locals were paid protection money
by wealthy absentee landlords to look after the lemon trees.
This salad, based on the plentiful citrus fruit that still grows in Sicily, was
discovered by our agent and friend Sheila Abelman on a walking trip
around Sicily. I am very grateful to her; she took notes and photos to show
me after her trip so that I could recreate the dish here. It is refreshing all
year around and best left at room temperature for an hour to two before
serving, to let the flavours meld together.
Serves 4–6
1 large red or white onion or 5 spring onions, cut into very small dice
4 oranges
1 large lemon
small handful of finely chopped parsley leaves and thin stalks
Soak the onion in cold water for 15 minutes – this will dispel the strong flavour.
Meanwhile, prepare the rest of the salad. On a board and using a sharp knife,
peel and cut away the pith from the oranges. Cut out the segments from between
the membrane and let them fall on to a large serving dish. Do the same with the
lemon but cut the segments into four and scatter them over the oranges. Pour
over the oil and white wine and evenly scatter over the parsley and season to
taste.
INSALATA DI MELONE, ARANCIA E NOCE
MELON, ORANGE & WALNUT SALAD
This is a really quick salad to throw together and enjoy as a starter or after
a main course. Almost any melon will work for this recipe, depending on the
season. Do pick one that is ripe and has plenty of flavour. You can usually
tell this by smelling the top of it. If there is no scent, choose another one or
wait until it ripens. You need a really good, peppery olive oil for this – the
flavour with the orange and melon is worth the expense.
Serves 6
1 melon (approximately 1–1.5 kg/2 lb 3 oz–3 lb 5 oz), peeled, seeded and cut
into 2 cm (¾ in) thick wedges
2 oranges
2 tablespoons small and torn large mint leaves
3 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil handful of walnuts, roughly crushed in a
pestle and mortar
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
finely grated zest of ½ lemon salt, to taste
2 teaspoons pink peppercorns, roughly crushed
Assemble the melon pieces on a large platter or individual plates. On a board

and using a sharp knife, peel and cut away the pith from both oranges. Cut out
the segments from between the membrane and let them fall on to the melon.
Scatter over the remaining ingredients.
INSALATA DI FAGIOLI SCICLI
ANCHOVY, BEAN, CELERY & CAPER SALAD

On the winding road to Scicli, olive trees shelter pretty white flowers, and
capers cling to the drystone walls dividing the terrain. Scicli is a baroque
beauty, a cluster of churches, a piazza or two, potted palms and golden-
yellow stone buildings that reflect the sunshine. On our way through the
town, we called in for lunch at La Grotta, its name a nod to its unusual
setting, nestled into the side of a cave. The restaurant is run by Angelo Di
Tommasi and his son and we loved the food, especially the starter of
anchovies, fronds of wild fennel (or dill), celery and fagioli cosaruciaru, a
slow-food bean that, when cooked, melts in your mouth. We immediately
popped back into the town and bought some. For ease, we have substituted
them with cannellini beans in this recipe. Serve this dish with fish in
Salmoriglio, on its own, with chopped boiled eggs or roasted peppers, tuna
or on bruschetta.
Use 3 Ways
soup, salad,
toast topping
Serves 6–8
250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) dried cannellini beans a few sage leaves

1 teaspoon bicarbonate of soda (baking soda) (if needed)
1 red onion, finely sliced
2 celery stalks and leaves from the heart, finely sliced
2 tablespoons capers in salt, rinsed
50 g (2 oz/¼ cup) good-quality black olives, stoned and chopped
2 tablespoons red wine vinegar salt and freshly ground black pepper
handful of parsley leaves and soft stalks, finely chopped
8–10 anchovies in oil, drained, added according to taste and size, roughly
chopped
Cover the beans in cold water and soak overnight. The following day, drain the
beans, discard the water and put the beans into a large saucepan with twice the
volume of cold water, the sage leaves and garlic. Bring to the boil and then
reduce to a simmer and cook for 2–2½ hours or until soft. Top up with hot water
as necessary. If the skins remain tough after this time add a teaspoon of
bicarbonate of soda and cook for 5 minutes more. Drain and throw away the
water. Discard the sage leaves and garlic. Put the beans into a large bowl and set
aside.
Add 2 tablespoons of the oil to a frying pan and fry the onion with the celery
stalks but not the leaves over a low heat for around 10 minutes or until the onion
has softened. Stir through the capers and olives to coat in the cooking juices and
cook for a couple of minutes. Remove from the heat and add to the beans,
stirring to mix.
Make a dressing by combining the vinegar, the remaining oil and some
seasoning. Mix with the beans and leave to cool. When the beans are at room
temperature, stir through the parsley, celery leaves and anchovies. Taste and
adjust the seasoning as necessary and maybe add a couple more anchovies if you
like their flavour. Serve straight away.
Variations: Add a tin of sustainably caught tuna or some roasted red or yellow
(bell) peppers.
INSALATA DI ARANCIA E FINOCCHIO
ORANGE & FENNEL SALAD
This traditional Sicilian salad of fennel and orange is served all over the
island. I like to add chicken as I think it makes a wonderful, light salad for
lunch or on a hot summer’s night. Alternatively, serve the salad with grilled
fish. Pick a strong-flavoured, fruity extra-virgin olive oil for this salad – it
makes all the difference. Try to find Sicilian oranges, if you can, for their
natural sweetness or choose blood oranges when in season. See the photo.
Serves 4
3 oranges
2 white fennel bulbs, woody ends and tough outer leaves removed, finely sliced
small handful of pistachios, roughly chopped
small handful of wild fennel or dill sprigs
handful of pitted green olives, roughly chopped (optional)
½ green chilli, finely chopped (optional)
Peel 2 of the oranges and cut out the segments. Do this over a bowl to catch the
juices. Cut the remaining orange into very thin slices. Put all the ingredients into
the bowl and season to taste. Arrange on a serving platter and decorate with the
orange slices.
Variation: Add 400 g (14 oz) cooked chicken, torn into shreds, for a main
course salad.
INSALATA DI FAVE CON LIMONE E FETA
BROAD BEAN SALAD WITH LEMON & FETA

Sicilians are crazy for their broad (fava) beans, eaten either fresh and raw
straight from the pod with young white cheese, or boiled and stirred into a
casserole like the Frittedda or dried and made into a soup (see Maccu di
fave). In this recipe we have taken the idea of the young beans – still tender
so you don’t need to slip off the skins – and combined them with the fresh
flavours of spring for a salad. This is lovely with other salads or with
barbecued meats and chicken.
Serves 4–6
400 g (14 oz) frozen or young fresh broad (fava) beans

3 tablespoons roughly torn mint leaves
50 g (2 oz/¼ cup) salted ricotta or feta, coarsely grated
25 g (1 oz/¼ cup) toasted flaked almonds, roughly chopped
Cook the beans for 4–5 minutes in boiling salted water. Drain and rinse under
cold running water to cool quickly. Pour into a bowl and add the rest of the
ingredients, seasoning to taste. Serve straight away, or up to a day later, at room
temperature. The flavours meld together after around 30 minutes.
Variation: Older, larger beans can be used but boil them for up to 7 minutes
until tender and squeeze them out of their tough skins.
PASTA, RICE & COUSCOUS
Pasta is a feeling as well as a fuel. Few plates are more eagerly awaited and
satisfying than a bowl of hot pasta. You know how you are going to feel
afterwards.
Pasta made from flour is a blend of protein and carbohydrate and, with the
addition of a sauce containing protein such as a ragu, it will sustain you for a
good few hours. Just remember, in Italy they serve small portions as it is eaten as
a starter. Giancarlo and our son Giorgio were devastated when they were told
they could no longer eat foods with gluten, but now we have found good brands
of gluten-free dried pasta and we make our own fresh pasta, so life has pretty
much returned to normal.
Wheat was grown in Sicily before the Arab invasion. In fact, pasta was first
introduced to Italy by the Arabs at the beginning of the 12th century, long before
Marco Polo travelled to the East, which blows the myth that he brought the idea
back to Venice. The term ‘maccheroni’ probably comes from the Sicilian word
‘maccarruna’, and it referred to short tubular pasta.
The first tomato sauce recipe dates from the late 18th century – a 1790
cookbook, L’Apicio Moderno. Before tomato sauce was added, pasta was eaten
dry with the fingers. It was the liquid sauce that demanded the use of a fork.
Dried pasta and cooking instructions

Sicily exported huge amounts of dried pasta during the early Middle Ages. It is
still mainly dried pasta that is eaten on the island rather than fresh. Dried pasta,
these days, is extruded through metal dies, which means it is less absorbent than
fresh pasta and is ideally suited to wetter sauces such as the Romanesco sauce or
the Alla Norma sauce.
To serve 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter use 320 g (11½ oz) pasta.
Cook the pasta in a large saucepan of salted boiling water according to the
packet instructions until al dente. Always add the pasta to the sauce, which
should be warmed through in a large frying pan. Toss to combine. The exception
to this is when using an uncooked sauce such as pesto, which can be stirred
through hot pasta in a bowl.
PESTO ALLA TRAPANESE
PESTO FROM TRAPANI
Above: Penne with Sun-dried Tomato & Chilli Relish. Centre: Pesto from Trapani.
Below: Pistachio Pesto.
This makes a light, delicate sauce normally used for pasta but which is also
good on fried fish or spread onto hot sourdough toast. This is the way our
friend Marco Piraino prepares this traditional sauce. It is usually made
without the aubergines (eggplants) but we loved the extra flavour and
texture they offer. Use this sauce with fresh or dried pasta. In Sicily it is
often served with the curly busiate pasta.
Use 3 Ways
On pasta, with
fried fish, on
toast
850 g (1 lb 13 oz) fresh round tomatoes

100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) blanched almonds
seed oil for frying
1 aubergine (eggplant), cut into 1 cm (½ in) cubes
1 garlic clove, peeled
10 g (½ oz) Parmesan, finely grated
70 g (2¼ oz/scant 3 cups) basil leaves
150 ml (5 fl oz/⅔ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
Make a cross in the top of each tomatoe and then plunge them into a bowl of
just-boiled water for a minute or two until the skins split. Remove from the hot
water with a slotted spoon and plunge into a bowl of ice-cold water to cool for a
few minutes. Meanwhile, blitz the almonds in a food processor to a gritty texture
and heat enough seed oil to deep-fry the aubergine in a small saucepan. Fry the
aubergine cubes until lightly browned and then remove from the oil with a
slotted spoon. Set aside to drain on kitchen paper for a few minutes to cool.
Peel the skins from the tomatoes and discard the skins. Chop the flesh into
small dice. Put the garlic, salt and pepper to taste, Parmesan, basil and olive oil
together in a pestle and mortar. Grind until you have a rough paste, then add the
almonds and tomatoes; give them a bash with the pestle then stir through. Add
the aubergine last and stir to combine. Stir into hot cooked dried pasta, such as
the busiate in the photo opposite (centre).
PESTO DI PISTACCHIO
PISTACHIO PESTO
We met a couple of passionate Sicilians selling jars of this in Ragusa Ibla.
They told us you could fry some onion and bacon together and add the
pistachio paste. You could also add it to a pan with sautéed prawns
(shrimp), before adding pasta and little grated lemon zest. Or stir in a little
cream to enrich it as a pasta sauce. I was sold and bought a jar. However, it
is actually easy to make your own and you can alter the flavourings to suit.
The best pistachios in Sicily come from the area of Bronte in the hills. I have
found that the best flavour comes from the kind you shell at home, but I
don’t suggest you sit for hours slavishly picking them apart. However, a few
of these, roughly chopped, on top of the pasta will enhance the taste and
texture of the dish.
Use 3 Ways
On pasta, with
prawns, on
toast
Serves 4 (makes approximately 225 g/8 oz)
100 g (3½ oz/¾ cup) shelled unsalted pistachios

25 g (1 oz) parsley leaves and stalks
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
3 tablespoons lemon juice
25 g (1 oz) finely grated Parmesan
Put the pistachios into a food processor and grind to the texture of fine gravel.
Add the remaining ingredients and whizz briefly again. Taste and adjust the
seasoning. Use straight away, or store in the fridge covered with a thin layer of
oil for up to a week. To use, stir into hot, just-cooked pasta (see photo).
PASTA CON BROCCOLO ROMANESCO IN TEGAME
ROMANESCO WITH PASTA
Broccolo here refers to those green pointed Romanesco cauliflowers that

look like an incredible, miniature work of architecture. You can, however,
make this sauce with white cauliflower – both types soften down to create a
creamy pasta sauce (without any cream!). At Mandranova agriturismo near
Agrigento, Silvia Di Vincenzo stirred the cauliflower into pasta shells. The
shapes caught the soft florets with the pinoli (pine nuts) and tiny black
currants. Local pinoli are long, fruity and oily, and have a distinct flavour a
world apart from the tiny dry Chinese imported ones. Seek them out if you
can.
This is supposed to be a sauce for pasta but for me it also makes the most
delicious soupy stew to eat on a cold autumn day. To add a little crunch, you
can top the dish with toasted breadcrumbs and a little grated hard cheese.
Cooking the pasta in the broccolo water enhances the flavour, too.
Serves 4
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Romanesco or white cauliflower
1 onion, finely chopped
1 bay leaf
1 tablespoon currants or small raisins
1 tablespoon pine nuts
pinch of saffron strands
handful of dry breadcrumbs or finely grated Parmesan, to serve (optional)
Cut the Romanesco or cauliflower into florets and discard the leaves (you can
use these too if you have lots of them). Plunge them into salted boiling water and
cook until just tender when pierced with a fork. Get a large bowl of iced water
ready. Remove the florets with a slotted spoon and drop them into the chilled
water to cool and to keep their colour. Retain the cooking water.
Drain the Romanesco and use your hands to break the florets into smaller
pieces. Heat the oil in a frying pan (skillet) and fry the onion and anchovies until
just softened. Add the Romanesco, bay leaf, currants and pine nuts, then top up
with the Romanesco cooking water to cover. Soften the saffron strands in a
tablespoon of hot water and stir into the pan. Break up the Romanesco with a
wooden spoon so that the sauce becomes dense and creamy. Taste and adjust the
seasoning as necessary. Eat as it is or with cooked dried pasta, sprinkled with
breadcrumbs or Parmesan, if you like.
RAGÙ DI CARNE VELOCE
QUICK BEEF RAGU
This meaty, as opposed to tomatoey, ragu makes the ideal filling for the
Arancine and is perfect with pasta too. Longer-cooking and fattier minced
(ground) beef will give you a better, richer flavour, as the sauce
concentrates, but when time is short this version is perfectly fine. Estrattu is
a rich, concentrated tomato paste which is very important in Sicilian
cooking. Many people still make their own in summer with the abundance
of cheap, ripe tomatoes. You will see mounds of it for sale in the markets.
Do bring some home and use it in place of tomato purée, but it is salty so be
careful with additional seasoning.
Serves 8

1 carrot, finely chopped
1 celery stalk, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) lean minced (ground) beef
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) full-bodied red wine such as Nero d’Avola
salt
small pinch of ground cloves
Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the carrot, celery, onion and garlic over a
medium heat until softened, around 5 minutes. Add the minced beef and stir
through for a couple of minutes, then add the tomato purée, red wine, two good
pinches of salt and the ground cloves. Cook for around 10 minutes, stirring
frequently with a wooden spoon to break up the meat. Taste and adjust the
seasoning as necessary.
RAGÙ TRADIZIONALE DE CARNE
SLOW-COOKED PORK, BEEF & SAUSAGE RAGU

This is the opposite of the Quick Beef Ragu. Traditionally, ragu was made
on a Sunday and normally it would be the mamma of the house who would
get up early to get it started over a fire, so that it would be ready in time for
a late lunch. Nowadays, with slow cookers and heavy, cast-iron casseroles
like Le Creuset you can get it going, turn the oven on low and go out for the
day. You will come back to a heavenly feast that is the wonderfully rich and
sticky ragu ready to cling to pasta shapes or gnocchi.
We tested this recipe at our restaurant in Bray. A couple of the staff are
Sicilian and they ate it for their dinner. They loved it and actually became
quite emotional! I think we got pretty close to the original recipe. Don’t
worry if you don’t have all the types of meat – it really should be made with
what you have to hand, so use more beef or pork accordingly. Do try to find
proper Italian sausages, though, as they are full of flavour from garlic, wine
and sometimes fennel seeds and don’t contain rusk. Serve this with dried or
fresh long pasta.
Serves 8–10
425 g (15 oz) Italian sausages

325 g (11½ oz) pork spare ribs
425 g (15 oz) pork belly, cut into 3 cm (1¼ in) cubes
425 g (15 oz) stewing beef, cut into 8 cm (3¼ in) chunks
2 white or brown onions, finely chopped
3 garlic cloves, peeled and roughly chopped
2 bay leaves
1 sprig of rosemary
300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) white or red wine
1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) tinned whole tomatoes, roughly chopped
1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) chicken, meat or vegetable stock, or hot water
6 potatoes (approximately 1 kg/2 lb 3 oz), peeled and cut in half
200 g (7 oz/1⅓ cups) peas, frozen or fresh (optional)
Brown the meat in batches in the oil in a large casserole dish over a medium
heat, setting it aside in a large bowl when done. Add the onions to the pan in the
remaining oil with the garlic, bay leaves, rosemary and seasoning and cook over
a gentle heat to soften. It should take 7-10 minutes. Add the meat back into the
pan with the wine and bring to the boil. Allow to reduce for few minutes. Add
the tomato purée, tomatoes and stock and stir to combine.
Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat to a simmer and allow to cook slowly
for 4–5 hours. The time will depend upon the cut of meat and the size. You need
to cook it until the meat falls easily from the bones. Add the potatoes after
around 4 hours and continue to cook until they are cooked through. Add the
peas, if using, towards the end of the cooking time. Cook for 15 minutes if using
frozen peas and 30 minutes if using fresh ones. Taste and adjust the seasoning as
necessary.
Eat the stew as it is or ladle off most of the sauce and serve it with pasta,
followed by the meat and potatoes as a main course served with the Purple
Sprouting Broccoli.
RAGÙ DI SALSICCE E FINOCCHIO SELVATICI
SAUSAGE & WILD FENNEL RAGU
Wild fennel grows everywhere but most of us ignore it. It sprouts up

merrily in early spring in the UK; it is bright green and feathery, then
becomes darker over the months and finally blossoms into yellow flowers
that yield the seeds in autumn. Do seek it out; you can usually find it in
hedgerows. Fresh ricotta is often stirred into hot pasta in Sicily; sometimes
it can be dry, in which case stir through a little cream at the same time.

½ large leek (about 150 g/5 oz), trimmed and finely chopped
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Italian rusk-free sausages
5 tablespoons red wine
small handful (25 g/1 oz) of wild fennel, finely chopped, or 1 teaspoon fennel
seeds
100 g (3½ oz/generous ⅓ cup) ricotta
75 ml (2½ fl oz/⅔ cup) double (heavy) cream (optional)
25 g (1 oz) finely grated Parmesan (optional)
Heat the oil in a large frying pan and fry the leek for around 5 minutes.
Meanwhile, squeeze the sausage meat from the skins and crumble it into the pan
with the leek. Fry over a medium to low heat until the meat is browned. Add the
red wine and let it evaporate for around 5 minutes, then stir in the wild fennel
(keep a little for garnish) and some pepper. Let the ragu cook slowly over a low
heat for around 30 minutes. Taste and add a little salt if necessary (Italian
sausages tend to be quite salty so go easy). Just before serving, stir in the ricotta
and cream, if using, then add just-cooked pasta to the pan. Stir through and serve
garnished with the reserved fennel and, if liked, some Parmesan on top.
RAGÙ DI PESCE
FISH SAUCE
Use a mixture of fish, as each one will impart its own flavour. In Palermo
there was a fishmonger who had a large marble slab covered in tiny or
broken fish, the kind of scraps that would be perfect for this dish. By 10.30
a.m. the slab was cleared and the Sicilians were on their way home with
bags of cheap fish for a tasty ragu. Since we don’t have a fishmonger near
our home, I put a few shell-on prawns (shrimp) into the sauce to give it a
stronger flavour. This sauce is best with dried pasta such as spaghetti.
4 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to drizzle

1 celery stalk from the heart with some leaves, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 bay leaf
a few parsley stalks, finely chopped
5 large raw prawns (shrimp), shells and heads on if possible
200 g (7 oz/1 cup) tinned whole tomatoes, chopped
pinch of chilli flakes
300 ml (10 fl oz/1¼ cups) fish, shellfish or vegetable stock, or water
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) mixed flavourful white fish such as sea bass, sea bream, sole
320 g (11 oz/3 cups) pasta of your choice, to serve
small handful of parsley, finely chopped,
Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the shallot, carrot, celery and garlic with
the bay leaf and parsley stalks over a low heat for 5 minutes. Peel the prawns
and discard the shells. Remove the heads and set aside. Add the tomatoes, chilli
and prawn heads, if using, followed by the stock, to the pan and bring to the boil.
Let it cook slowly for 10 minutes. Use tongs to fish out the prawn heads and
squeeze the juices out into the pan. Discard the heads. Add the fish and the
prawns to the pan and cook slowly for 15 minutes. Taste and adjust the
seasoning as necessary.
Toss freshly cooked and drained pasta with the sauce in a large frying pan and
add a drizzle of olive oil and a little parsley. Serve straight away.
PASTA ALLA NORMA
PASTA WITH AUBERGINE & TOMATOES
This glorious pasta dish was made to honour Vincenzo Bellini, the composer
of the opera Norma, who was born in Catania in 1801. It ticks all the boxes
for an outstanding dish in Sicilian cuisine; short, bouncy pasta is tossed with
crispy-edged aubergine (eggplant), sweet tomato sauce, basil and salty
ricotta cheese. I have used coarsely grated feta as I can’t find ricotta salata
in my local shops, but do seek it out online or in Italian delis. It has a
crumbly texture and a tangy flavour. This is the way chef Roberto Toro
cooked his Pasta alla Norma at the stunning Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo in
Taormina.
Use 3 Ways
Rocsted
Aubergine:
Auberginbes
Palermo Style,
Baked
Aubergine, the
Serves 4 as a recipe
main course or 6 as above
a starter
1 small shallot, peeled but left whole

2 fat garlic cloves, peeled and crushed
1 sprig of basil, plus a small handful of basil leaves to garnish
1 × 400 g (14 oz) tin cherry tomatoes or 400 g (14 oz) fresh, blanched and peeled
tomatoes
1 teaspoon caster (superfine) sugar, optional
seed oil for deep-frying
1 large aubergine (eggplant), topped and tailed and cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
320 g (11 oz/3 cups) pasta such as penne or spaghetti
To serve
100g (3 ½ oz/⅔ cup) feta cheese, coarsely grated
few extra basil leaves
Put the shallot, garlic cloves, basil sprig and olive oil together in a pan and heat
gently for a couple of minutes until you can smell the flavourings. Add the
tomatoes to the pan and continue to cook gently for around 20 minutes. Season
to taste with salt and pepper and a little sugar if the tomatoes are too acidic.
Meanwhile, heat the seed oil to around 175°C (350°F) and fry the aubergine
cubes until golden. This will only take a few minutes. Scoop out the aubergines
with a slotted spoon and drain on kitchen paper.
Put the pasta on to cook in a large pan of boiling well-salted water. Cook until
tender according to the manufacturer’s suggestions. Remove the onion and garlic
from the oil and discard. Add the aubergines to the sauce and stir through gently.
Add the cooked, drained pasta and stir or toss again to combine. Serve in
warm bowls with the feta, a few extra basil leaves, a swirl of olive oil and a twist
of black pepper.
Roasted aubergines:
If you prefer not to deep-fry the aubergines, preheat the oven to 200°C
(400°F/Gas 6). Toss the aubergines in a large bowl with 3 tablespoons of the
olive oil and seasoning. Pour onto a tray lined with baking parchment and spread
out well so they aren’t piled up or they will steam. Put into the oven to roast for
around 30 minutes or until they appear lightly crisp and golden brown. Add to
the tomato sauce as before.
PASTA CON LE SARDE E FINOCCHIO SELVATICI
SARDINE & WILD FENNEL SAUCE
Pasta con le sarde is almost a national dish in Sicily and is found in various
forms all over the island. It is indeed a recipe that serves up a rich, splendid
plate of history, showing Arab and Italian traditions together. The typical
pasta to eat with it is busiate, twirls of pasta made from semolina flour (see
pesto alla trapanese) but spaghetti is a good substitute. This recipe is from
passionate foodie Caterina, owner of Il Palladio hotel and restaurant in
Giardini Naxos. She uses abundant handfuls of wild fennel and local
sardines. In the UK, wild fennel grows both in gardens and in the
countryside, so do seek it out. If you can’t find it, use fresh dill instead. If
you can get hold of the long, Italian pine nuts, they add flavour as well as
crunch to the pasta. They are expensive but if you are travelling in Sicily
they are widely available at the markets.

1 white onion, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly chopped
a little fresh red chilli or a pinch of dried chilli flakes, to taste
large handful of wild fennel
5 anchovies in oil, drained
1 heaped tablespoon pine nuts
2 tablespoons soft, sweet raisins or currants
handful of cherry tomatoes, roughly chopped
10 fresh sardines, filleted
good pinch of saffron strands
320 g (11 oz) spaghetti
handful of toasted flaked almonds, roughly crushed
Fry the onion, garlic and chilli together in the oil until soft. Boil the wild fennel
whole for 5 minutes and save the water to cook your pasta later. Squeeze the
fennel to get rid of the excess water and chop finely. Melt the anchovies in the
oil with the onion and add the pine nuts, raisins, fennel and tomatoes. Season to
taste.
Add the sardines and the saffron mixed with 2 tablespoons of hot water, cover
and leave to cook for 5 minutes or until the fish is cooked through. Break the
fish up a little and taste the sauce. Season as necessary. Boil the reserved fennel
water in a large pan and add the spaghetti. Cook until tender according to the
manufacturer’s suggestions and drain. Add just-cooked pasta to the sauce and
toss to combine. Serve in warm bowls topped with the almonds.
SPAGHETTI DI GRANO DURO CON ALICI, CAPPERI DI PANTELLERIA
E POMODORINO DI PACHINO
SPAGHETTI WITH ANCHOVIES, CAPERS & CHERRY TOMATOES
This quick-to-cook pasta dish appears in various guises all over the island.
It is made from ingredients that you normally have to hand and never fails
to please. This recipe is from Stefano Gegnacorsi, the hard-working general
manager of the Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo in Taormina. He told us that
after a busy day at the hotel this is what he goes home to cook. Try to find
small capers sold in salt and give them a good rinse – the best ones come
from the sunny island of Pantelleria.

25 g (1 oz) anchovy fillets, fresh or tinned in oil, drained
400 g (14 oz) cherry tomatoes, cut into quarters
handful of olives, pitted
3 tablespoons small capers in salt, well rinsed
320 g (11½ oz) durum wheat spaghetti
a little strong extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
3 tablespoons finely chopped parsley, to garnish
a handful of olives, pitted
Prepare the sauce by sautéing the onion with the anchovies in a little of their oil
and the olive oil over a low heat for up to 10 minutes or until softened, but make
sure they don’t take on any colour. Add the cherry tomatoes, olives and capers to
the pan and season to taste. You may not need any salt as the anchovies are
already salty.
Put the pasta on to cook in a large saucepan of boiling salted water. Cook until
tender, according to the packet instructions.
Add the just-cooked and drained pasta to the sauce and toss, allowing a little
of the pasta water to fall into the pan – this will help to dilute and emulsify the
sauce. Finish with a swirl of your best peppery extra-virgin olive oil, a scattering
of parsley and the olives. Serve in warm bowls.
SALSA DI POMODORINI
CHERRY TOMATO SAUCE

I learnt to make this sauce from our Sicilian head chef Gregorio Piazza. He
showed me how he leaves the stalks on the tomatoes during cooking as they
add a wonderful grassy flavour to the sauce.
Buy tomatoes when they are really ripe, dark red and soft. In Sicily,
tomatoes are available all year round but they are much better in the
sunnier months. Taste them to make sure you are happy with the sweetness.
Datterini are tiny plum tomatoes that are perfect for this. However, if you
find your tomato sauce is not sweet enough add a little sugar to taste. This
recipe can also be made with tinned cherry or San Marzano plum tomatoes,
which contain little water.
This sauce has infinite uses and is used in several recipes in this book,
from the risotto, to the timballo and more, and can be used in place of the
sfincione sauce.
Use 3 Ways
risotto, soup,
timballo
Makes approximately 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz)

1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
1 white onion, roughly chopped
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) cherry tomatoes on the vine or 1.2 kg (2 lb 10 oz) tinned cherry
or whole plum tomatoes
1 sprig of basil
1 teaspoon salt
freshly ground black pepper, to taste
1–2 teaspoons sugar (optional)
Fry the carrot, celery and onion in the olive oil in a large saucepan over a
medium heat for around 10 minutes or until soft. Add the tomatoes with a few of
their stalks (if using fresh) to the pan with the basil and seasoning and cook over
a medium heat with a lid on. Stir frequently, bashing the tomatoes with a potato
masher to break them up. Bring to the boil, then remove the lid and reduce the
heat to a low simmer and cook for around 30–40 minutes. Check the seasoning
and adjust as necessary, adding a teaspoon of sugar if the tomatoes still taste
acidic. Use the sauce as it is or remove the basil and stalks and use a stick
blender to blend the sauce to a smooth, velvety consistency.
PASTA FRESCA
FRESH PASTA
The general universal pasta recipe is: 1 egg to 100 g (3½ oz/scant 1 cup) ‘00’
flour. In Sicily and the south of Italy the flour used is finely ground semola,
semolina flour. This is a type of flour which, unlike pure white flour, also
contains a little of the bran from around the outside of the wheat kernel,
giving it a slightly creamy pale yellow colour. Ideally, the pasta is rolled on a
wooden surface, as the tiny particles of wood that project from the surface
add texture, helping the pasta to absorb the sauce that will eventually coat
it. Many Italians use a tablecloth for the same purpose. To save time, the
pasta dough can be made in a food processor, which is particularly useful
when making coloured pasta as the blades distribute the colour evenly and
quickly.
Makes enough pasta for 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter
200 g (7 oz/1⅔ cups) ‘00’ or very fine semolina flour, plus a little extra if
necessary
2 eggs (preferably corn-fed for colour)
Pour the flour into a bowl and make a well in the centre. Crack the eggs into the
well. Using a table knife, gradually mix the flour into the eggs. Keep mixing the
eggs and flour together until they form a thick paste.
Use the fingertips of one hand to incorporate the rest of the flour and form a
ball of dough. Discard the dry little crumbs. The dough should form a soft but
firm, flexible ball. If it is still sticking to the palm of your hand, add a little more
flour – but be careful to stop adding flour as soon as it stops sticking. If it’s
really dry and has many cracks, add a drop or two of water – do this in a bowl or
the food processor.
Knead the pasta for 5–10 minutes, or until it springs back to the touch, the
colour is uniform and, when cut open, the ball of dough is full of small air
bubbles; this means you have kneaded it for long enough. Leave the pasta to
‘rest’ for at least 20 minutes or up to 1 day, lightly dusted with flour and wrap it
in cling film (plastic wrap) to prevent it from drying out while it rests.
PASTA LUNGA
LONG PASTA
Follow the recipe for Fresh Pasta. After the resting time the pasta can be rolled
out with a rolling pin or a pasta machine. To make any of the long pasta such as
tagliatelle or pappardelle by hand, roll the pasta out using a heavy wooden
rolling pin. Lightly dust the surface of the table, the pasta and the rolling pin
with flour to prevent it sticking.
When it is very thin (about 1 mm thick) and you can see your fingers through
it, it is ready. Dust the work surface and the pasta with plenty of flour again to
prevent it sticking to itself. Gently fold over one short edge, making a flap of
about 3 cm (1¼ in). Now do the same with the other short edge. Fold the edges
over again and again, sprinkling flour over the surface to stop the dough sticking
to itself. Stop when the folded edges meet in the middle. Cut across the folds
into the desired thicknesses to make the pasta lunga, the thinnest being tagliolini
and the fattest pappardelle. Slide a long knife underneath the centre, matching
the blunt edge of the knife to where the two folded edges come together. Hold
and twist the knife in the air and the pasta ribbons will fall down in cut lengths
either side.
When cut, pull out into individual strands and toss with coarse semolina or a
little more flour. Don’t pile the pasta high but leave it in a single layer or the
weight will cause it to stick together. Cook within the hour. The cooking time
should be 2–3 minutes, or until al dente, in a pan of boiling salted water.
PASTA FRESCA SENZA GLUTINE
GLUTEN-FREE FRESH PASTA

Finally, after being diagnosed with gluten intolerance, Giancarlo and
Giorgio can enjoy their favourite bowl of fresh pasta once more. We started
working with different flours and xantham gum to achieve a pasta that
tasted good and didn’t fall apart in the water. It also has a bite to it like
pasta made with conventional ‘00’ flour. We don’t add salt to our dough as
we cook the pasta in well-salted water.
Makes enough pasta for 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter
3 eggs
50 g (2 oz/generous ¼ cup) white or brown rice flour
50 g (2 oz/generous ⅓ cup) buckwheat flour
175 g (6 oz/scant 1½ cups) tapioca flour (tapioca starch)
1 teaspoon xantham gum
Crack the eggs into a measuring jug and beat with a fork. They should measure
around 180 ml (6¼ fl oz) – if not, add a couple of tablespoons of water to the
jug. Put the eggs with all the other ingredients into a food processor and blend
until a ball of dough forms. If it is very dry and doesn’t form a ball, add another
tablespoon of water. You are aiming for a firm but pliable dough. Knead the
dough for a few minutes to ensure it is well blended. Wrap in cling film (plastic
wrap) and rest for 30 minutes at room temperature, or if you prefer to keep it
longer it can be left up to a day in the fridge.
If you don’t have a food processor, tip the dry ingredients into a bowl and stir
to combine. Make a well in the centre of the ingredients and crack the eggs into
it with the oil and 2 tablespoons of water. Use a table knife to break up the eggs
and combine the dry ingredients little by little. Eventually your knife will
become ineffective, so use your hands to bring the dough together into a ball. If
it is very dry and hard add a tablespoon more water. Knead and rest the dough as
above.
After the dough has rested use as fresh pasta, rolling the dough by hand or
through a machine, remembering to use gluten-free flour for dusting.
AGNOLOTTI AL TRAMONTO RIPIENI DI BRANZINO
SUNSET AGNOLOTTI STUFFED WITH SEA BASS
In summer, at our friend Mimmo’s wonderful restaurant Osteria Bacchus

in Sant’Ambrogio, guests can sit opposite the restaurant on a terrace
overlooking the bay of Cefalù. They can enjoy this vibrant pasta dish for
dinner, with its vivid colours reflecting those of the sunset.
Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter (makes 35–40 shapes)
For the pasta

200 g (7 oz/1⅔ cups) ‘00’ or very fine semolina flour, plus a little extra if
necessary
2 eggs (preferably corn-fed for colour), plus beaten egg to seal the agnolotti
pinch of saffron powder, mixed with 1 teaspoon hot water
For the stuffing
1 large garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
2 teaspoons pink peppercorns
3 sea bass or sea bream fillets, or any other flavourful white fish (approximately
450 g/1 lb)
2 tablespoons lemon juice finely grated zest of 1 small lemon salt, to taste
For the sauce
100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) salted butter
small handful of sage leaves
few slices red chilli, according to taste
3 garlic cloves, skins left on and lightly crushed
4 tablespoons Fish Broth (see cuscus di pesce e frutti di mare) or cooking water
Divide the flour between two bowls and crack an egg into each one. Add the
tomato purée to one bowl and the saffron water to the other. Follow the
instructions for making fresh pasta, adding a little more flour as necessary to
make two firm balls of dough. Now take half of each ball of coloured pasta and
use your hands or a food processor to blend the two halves together. You will
now have three balls of pasta – an orange one, a yellow one and a yellowy-
orange one. Cover all three with cling film (plastic wrap) and rest for 20 minutes
at room temperature.
Meanwhile, make the stuffing. Gently fry the onion and garlic in the olive oil
until soft. Add the pink peppercorns, lightly crushing them with your fingers as
you drop them in. Add the fish to the pan skin-side up to begin with. Cook for 5
minutes, then turn skin-side down and cook for a couple more minutes until
tender. Add the lemon juice, zest and salt. Transfer to a large plate. Peel the skin
from the fish and discard. Use a fork to mash the flesh to a rough paste. Leave to
cool.
Line up the three balls of pasta in a row and roll them out with a large rolling
pin at the same time, dusting them lightly with flour every now and again.
Gradually, the three colours will blend together into soft stripes. This can also be
done in a pasta machine: divide each ball of pasta into three, then roll each piece
into small, walnut-sized balls. You will end up with nine balls. Take three
different-coloured balls at a time and roll them together. Feed this into your
pasta machine and blended lengths of coloured dough will appear.
Roll the pasta very thin (around 1 mm thick) and, using a pastry cutter or a
large wine glass, cut the pasta into circles around 9 cm (3½ in) across. Put a
heaped teaspoon of filling onto the pasta circles and brush a little of the beaten
egg around the edge of one half. Fold the circles around the filling and press the
edges together to form a half-moon shape. Expel the air from inside as you do
this.
Cook the agnolotti in boiling salted water for 4–6 minutes, until al dente.
Meanwhile, make the sauce by melting the butter in a large frying pan. Add the
sage, chilli and garlic and season. When the agnolotti are done, drain and add to
the sauce in the pan with the broth or cooking water. Shake the pan to combine
the water and butter. Serve immediately in warmed bowls or plates.
RAVIOLI AL LIMONE
RAVIOLI STUFFED WITH RICOTTA & LEMON
We watched the experienced hands of Valentina (opposite) – the pasta

maker at Taverna Nicastro in Modica – work her magic on a huge sheet of
bright yellow pasta. Between the rhythmic movements of flouring, rolling,
filling, folding and cutting, she produced puffy parcels of lemon-scented
ricotta wrapped in pasta. It was a joy to watch the timing and carefully
choreographed kitchen performance of the cooks. In many restaurants this
lemony pasta is served with a pork ragu, which is actually just the sauce
from the traditional slow-cooked ragu like the one. It is also good with the
Cherry Tomato Sauce, or simply tossed in butter and sage like the Sunset
Agnolotti.
Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter (makes 25–30 ravioli)
1 quantity of Fresh Pasta

coarse semolina or ‘00’ flour, for dusting
1 quantity of Cherry Tomato Sauce or the sauce from the Slow-Cooked Ragu
a little of your best extra-virgin olive oil, to serve
For the filling
finely grated zest of ½–1 lemon, plus extra to serve
½ teaspoon freshly grated nutmeg
Start by making the filling. Drain the ricotta then combine all the ingredients
together in a bowl. Go easy on the lemon zest as it can be quite overpowering,
but season to suit your taste. This is very important as you want the flavour to
shine through the pasta and sauce.
Bring a large pan of salted water two-thirds full to the boil.
To make the ravioli, roll out half the fresh pasta, keeping the other half
wrapped in cling film (plastic wrap). Dust the work surface with flour, but don’t
dust the top side of the pasta or it will be hard to seal. Roll out the pasta using a
rolling pin or a pasta machine until you can see your hand through it. Set the
machine on the second to last setting – the very last setting makes the thinnest
pasta but this is often too fragile for ravioli.
Now dot a heaped teaspoon of the filling at even intervals (two fingers-width
apart is ideal) on to a sheet of pasta and place another sheet of the same length
over the top. Press down around the filling to expel the air and seal the pasta
sheets together. Using a pasta wheel or a sharp knife, cut the ravioli into even 5
cm (2 in) squares. Set the shapes aside on a surface dusted with flour or semolina
(semolina is good as it doesn’t stick to the pasta).
Cook the ravioli in the boiling water for 4–6 minutes, until al dente – test by
trying the edge of one. Warm your chosen sauce in a large frying pan and toss
the just-cooked ravioli into it, allowing a little pasta water to fall into the sauce
as they are added. Shake the pan to amalgamate the water and sauce. Serve
immediately in warmed bowls or plates with a little lemon zest grated over the
top and a swirl of your best olive oil.
RICE
There is an ancient history to rice production in Sicily. It was probably
introduced there before the rest of Italy by the Arabs through the thriving trading
port of Alexandria, where one of the entrances was named ‘Pepper Gate’ in
recognition of the important trade in spices. Rice was written about in Roman
times, but was used for medicinal purposes only. During my research our teacher
friend Giuseppe Mazzarella sent me a very old Sicilian recipe called risu ca
minnulata: the rice is cooked in almond milk with a little salt until tender and
served with a sprinkling of ground almonds on top. It has a delicate but moreish
flavour and was traditionally given to people when they were unwell. It is lovely
and I think even better finished off with a swirl of honey.
The 9th century Arab scholar al-Asma’i said, ‘White rice with melted butter
and white sugar is not of this world’ – meaning that it surely came from
paradise. Rice was originally a rare and exotic foodstuff, but gradually it became
accessible to everyone.
RISOTTO DI POMODORINI DATTERINI
CHERRY TOMATO RISOTTO
This bright orange risotto packs a flavour punch thanks to Sicily’s famous
cherry tomatoes. I recommend making this when you see Italian cherry
tomatoes, known as datterini, in the shops. The risotto is pretty to look at
and should be served in small amounts as it is filling. This is a recipe from
Monaci delle Terre Nere, a beautiful hotel on the slopes of Mount Etna.
When you are making risotto, it helps to have everything you need within
reach, so that you don’t have to leave it unattended while you find the
cheese from the back of the fridge or discover you have run out of wine.
Have your heated stock ready in a pot by your risotto pan with a ladle to
hand.
Serves 4

50 g (2 oz/½ stick) butter
fine salt and freshly ground black pepper
300 g (10½ oz/1⅓ cups) carnaroli or other risotto rice
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) white wine
700–750 ml (24–25 fl oz/3 cups) hot chicken, ham or vegetable stock, or hot
water
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) Cherry Tomato Sauce
125 g (4 oz) ball of buffalo mozzarella, drained and roughly torn
a few small basil leaves, to garnish
Heat the oil and half the butter in a large saucepan – the oil helps to stop the
butter burning. When the butter has melted, soften the onion and celery with
some salt and pepper over a low heat for around 10 minutes.
Add the rice to the pan and allow it to toast for 3–5 minutes, stirring
constantly, until all the grains are covered in the butter and oil. Pour in the wine
and allow to evaporate for 2–3 minutes.
Ladle in around 500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) of the stock and the tomato sauce
and mix quickly into the rice. Stir frequently, keeping the heat medium-low.
When the risotto thickens to the point where you can see the bottom of the pan
when you draw the spoon across it, add another ladleful of stock.
After about 20 minutes taste the risotto to see whether it is done. The rice
grains should be clear on the outside but still have a little white centre; they
should feel soft on the outside with a hint of firmness in the centre. Adjust the
seasoning to taste. Remove the pan from the heat. It is better to leave it slightly
soupy as the liquid will continue to be absorbed over the following few minutes.
Beat in the remaining butter and the Parmesan – this will make your risotto
creamy. Cover the pan and allow the risotto to rest for 3–5 minutes. Serve in
warmed shallow bowls with a swirl of good olive oil, the mozzarella, a twist of
black pepper and a few small basil leaves.
RISOTTO ALL’ARANCIA
ORANGE & BASIL RISOTTO

This sublime risotto takes inspiration from the fabulous sweet oranges and
intensely flavoured herbs that grow in Etna’s fertile soil and under the
Sicilian sun. Do serve swirled with your best extra-virgin olive oil and
garnished with the basil – the marriage of flavours is a joy.
Serves 4

300 g (10½ oz/1⅓ cups) Arborio or carnaroli rice
juice and finely grated zest of 1 large orange
1–1.2 litres (34–41 fl oz/4¼–5 cups) hot chicken or vegetable stock
salt, to taste
small handful of basil leaves, roughly torn, to garnish
Follow the instructions for the Cherry Tomato Risotto, substituting the tomato
sauce with the zest and juice of the orange and adding the extra stock. Serve in
warm bowls, drizzled with a good olive oil and garnished with a few torn or
small basil leaves.
TIMBALLO DI RISO
RICE TIMBALE
Salvatore, our guide around Palermo, likened Sicilian culture to lasagne,

with each layer a different layer of history. You can take a bite from the
lasagne but you cannot separate the layers; you bite into them all together.
It is the same with the Sicilian dish of timballo, named after the timbale, the
mould it is cooked in.
Rice timbale is an elaborate layered dish from eastern Sicily, which is
said to derive from Catania during the time of the Arab occupation. There
are probably hundreds of variations of timbale; some are made with penne
and I have seen ones made with spaghetti. In fact, it is a good way to use up
leftover risotto or pasta. And do try layers of roasted aubergine (eggplant),
flavouring the rice with saffron or adding cooked mushrooms, for a few
ideas. I spent a day working with our chef Gregorio Piazza from Augusta,
near Catania, and we invented our own version, taking into account our
children’s preferences and what we thought people would realistically make
at home. It is gluten-free and can be adapted to a filling of your choice.
Gregorio said proudly that it looks British but it tastes Sicilian! Our
children love it and it is not complicated to make. You can leave it in an
ovenproof dish or go for the ‘wow’ factor and cook the timbale in a cake tin,
which can be removed after cooking.
Serves 8–10

1 shallot or white onion, finely chopped
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2¼ cups) Arborio rice
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) white wine
550 g (1 lb 3 oz) Cherry Tomato Sauce
800–900 ml (28–31 fl oz/3⅓–4 cups) hot chicken or vegetable stock, or hot
water
100 g (3½ oz) grana padano, finely grated
4 × 125 g (4 oz) balls of mozzarella
400 g (14 oz/2 cups) squeezed out spinach (from approximately 1 kg/2 lb 3 oz
fresh leaves or 500 g/1 lb 2 oz frozen spinach)
1 garlic clove, peeled and lightly crushed handful of basil leaves
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil and the
butter in a frying pan and fry the shallot until soft, then add the rice. Toast the
rice for around 3 minutes – it will start to crackle – then add the wine. Allow the
wine to evaporate and reduce for another 3 minutes, then add the tomato sauce
and 600 ml (20 fl oz/2½ cups) of the stock. Stir through frequently, keeping the
heat to medium, and add a little more stock as necessary until you have a firm,
thick risotto, which should take around 20 minutes. Add 80 g (3 oz) of the Grana
Padano and stir through. Season to taste and remove from the heat.
Cut the mozzarella into 1 cm (½ in) slices and put into a colander to drain.
Sauté the spinach in the remaining oil flavoured with the garlic and seasoned
with salt and pepper to taste. Set aside.
Spread half of the tomatoey rice in the bottom of a 30 x 21 cm (12 x 8¼ in)
ovenproof dish at least 5 cm (2 in) deep. Then add the spinach, followed by a
layer of mozzarella and half of the Grana Padano. Follow this with the basil
leaves, the remaining rice and top with the rest of the grana padano. Bake in the
oven for 20 minutes. Serve straight away, while the cheese is still bubbling on
top.
Variation: This timbale recipe also makes a beautiful layered savoury cake
when cooked in a cake tin. To do this, generously grease a loose-bottomed 24
cm (9½ in) cake tin with butter. Follow the method above and after removing
from the oven allow the timbale to sit for 10 minutes before removing from the
tin.
COUSCOUS
Couscous, or cuscus, is Arab-Sicilian cuisine and is found mainly on the
western, the Arab, side of the island. There is a whole festival dedicated to it in
San Vito Lo Capo at the end of summer, when chefs come from around the
world to be judged on their vats of fluffy couscous and richly scented broths.
Sicilian couscous is usually made with fish and contains bay leaves, whereas the
typically North African couscous is made with lamb and spices, but these days
there are many crossovers.
Couscous is made from the action of stirring and rolling semolina flour and
water together with your hands in large dish called a mafaradda. I remember
making it with an experienced friend of ours, Nonna Giovanna, who cooked her
couscous in a couscoussière, an old yellow earthenware pot with small holes in
the bottom and the lid, which sits over a pan of boiling broth. The lid was sealed
up with a length of dough to prevent the steam from escaping, forcing it through
the couscous instead.
The tiny pasta grains are steamed for around 45 minutes. The broth can be
made from fish or lamb and is filtered and used to pour over the couscous at the
table. Normally the fish for the broth isn’t eaten, but the filtered broth can be
used to cook filleted fish just before serving, which are then wonderfully tasty
and can be spooned on top of the couscous. Since making couscous from scratch
takes dedication, our recipes use precooked couscous instead, which simply
needs to be revived in hot stock for 5 minutes.
You can make twice the quantity of stock you need and freeze the rest for next
time. This makes it quite quick to throw together and is good for entertaining.
Nowadays you can buy maize couscous or use quinoa instead, which is good for
a gluten-free diet.
CUSCUS DI PESCE E FRUTTI DI MARE
FISH & SHELLFISH COUSCOUS
In Italy, they often use small or damaged fish, or the bones of particular
kinds like scorpion fish, John Dory or gurnards, as these all have a good
strong flavour to impart to a stock. These types of fish aren’t always easy to
find, so I add the heads and shells of prawns (shrimp) instead. You can use
a bought fish stock for this which is a lot easier but doesn’t have the flavour
of a homemade one. If you do buy one, bump up the flavour by adding the
cinnamon, chilli, wine and tomato purée from the recipe below.
Use 3 Ways
Fish broth:
Fish &
Shellfish
Couscous
(above), Fish
Sauce, Sunset
Serves 6–8 Agnolotti
For the fish broth

1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) mixed fish heads and bones and prawn (shrimp) heads and shells
3 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 bay leaf
1 small cinnamon stick
½–1 red chilli, finely sliced
2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) tepid water
For the couscous
1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely grated
25 g (1 oz/¼ cup) toasted chopped or flaked almonds
finely grated zest of ½ orange
pinch of ground cinnamon
1 teaspoon ground cumin
300 g (10½ oz/1⅔ cups) wheat or maize couscous
large handful of parsley, chopped
large handful of mint leaves, chopped
Fish for the filtered broth
1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz) cleaned and scaled mixed fish such as sea bream, sea bass,
king prawns (jumbo shrimp)
1–2 teaspoons salt
First make the fish broth. Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the onion,
celery and carrot for 10 minutes or until softened. Add the fish heads and bones,
prawn heads and shells, garlic, bay leaf, cinnamon and chilli according to taste
and stir through. Add the wine and allow to reduce for a few minutes then stir in
the tomato purée and water and cook for around 30 minutes.
Meanwhile, put the ingredients for the couscous, apart from the herbs, into a
heatproof bowl and stir together.
Cut the fish into 5–8 cm (2–3¼ in) pieces.
Strain the broth through a fine sieve and pour into a saucepan. Season to taste
with the salt and a little more chilli, if you like. Prepare the couscous by pouring
over the hot broth following the amounts given for hot water on the packet. You
should still have some broth leftover. Stir into the couscous and allow it to sit for
5 minutes, then fluff it up with a fork and add the fresh herbs.
Meanwhile, cook the fish pieces with the king prawns in the remaining hot
broth until cooked through – this will take only 7–10 minutes, depending on the
size of your fish and prawns. Serve the couscous on a warm serving platter
accompanied by the fish broth and fish in a bowl with a ladle for guests to help
themselves.
‘CUSCUS’ DI QUINOA E AGNELLO
QUINOA & LAMB COUSCOUS STYLE

It is good to use inexpensive cuts of lamb or mutton for this recipe. They
impart a delicious flavour and stand up to the long cooking time. This is
more of an Arab-style dish as it uses lamb and spices. We used quinoa as it
is gluten-free but do use wheat or maize couscous instead, if you prefer. The
first stage of this recipe essentially cooks the lamb and potatoes but also
provides a stock. The couscous (or in our case quinoa) is then cooked in
some of the stock and the lamb and potatoes are served in the rest of it.
Serves 6–8

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) lamb breast, neck or ribs, cut into 6 pieces
1 celery stalk, roughly chopped
2 carrots, peeled and left whole
1 onion, cut into quarters
1 garlic clove, peeled
1 sprig of rosemary
small handful of parsley
1 teaspoon coriander seeds
1 apple, cored and cut into quarters
1 tomato, cut into quarters
½ lemon, cut in half
½ orange, cut into quarters
120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) red wine
2 litres (68 fl oz/8½ cups) tepid water
2 potatoes, peeled and roughly cut into cubes
For the quinoa
300 g (10½ oz/1½ cups) quinoa
1 carrot, finely grated
1 celery stalk, grated
small handful of chives, snipped
1 small garlic clove, peeled and grated
1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley
juice of ½ orange
½ teaspoon ground cinnamon
Heat the oil in a large saucepan and fry the lamb, vegetables and garlic for the
stock until lightly browned. Add the herbs, spices, apple, tomato and fruit and
stir through. Pour in the wine and allow it to reduce for a couple of minutes, then
add the water and bring to the boil.
Reduce the heat and allow the lamb to simmer uncovered for 2–3 hours, or
until soft and falling away from the bone. The cooking time will depend on the
cut and size of the lamb pieces. Drop the potatoes into the pan around 20
minutes before the end of cooking time. When the potatoes are done and the
lamb is tender, use a pair of tongs to lift them out of the stock and set aside to
cool. Strain the broth and discard the flavourings.
Put the stock back into the pan and bring to the boil. Taste and add seasoning
as necessary. Ladle out some of the broth to cook the quinoa following the
instructions on the packet. Pick off the meat from the lamb bones and add to the
remaining stock in the pan with the potatoes.
When the quinoa is done, stir in the other ingredients and serve still warm
with the stock and lamb in a separate bowl. Guests can help themselves to the
lamb, potatoes and broth as they eat the couscous.
MEAT & POGLTRY
Sicilians may be surrounded by water, and they certainly eat a lot of fish,
but meat is still firmly on the menu when it is affordable.
Pork, particularly the black pig, is rated highly. In the past, meat was a luxury
food, eaten only in the grand houses, and the poor learnt to mimic meat dishes
using vegetables instead. Offal is a popular street food, particularly in the capital
Palermo (see chapter one). Cheaper cuts of meat are used in the long, slow-
cooking ragu and the better cuts are often made to go further by bashing them
out into escalopes, such as in the Rolled Stuffed Roast Beef.
ARROSTO DI MAIALE CON MELE E ROSMARINO
ROAST PORK WITH APPLES & ROSEMARY
There is a breed of pig in Sicily known as Black Pig, the suino nero. It is
small but has a good layer of fat, which ensures a succulent result to the
meat. Marco Piraino, our chef friend from Palermo, showed us how he
made a stunning Sunday lunch or dinner from a good cut of pork. Do try to
find one from your butchers with a decent layer of fat. Even though you cut
the skin away, you want enough fat under it and around the loin to keep it
from drying out.
Serves 6
1.6 kg (3 lb 8 oz) pork loin on the bone

2 garlic cloves, 1 cut in half and 1 peeled and lightly crushed
2 celery stalks, roughly chopped
1 onion, roughly chopped
2 carrots, roughly chopped
4 apples, peeled and each cut into 8 wedges
3 sprigs of rosemary
500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) white wine
1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) water, plus 100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup)
Preheat the oven to 240°C (475°F/Gas 9). Allow the pork to come to room
temperature. Remove the skin from the joint, leaving a little fat on the loin and
most of it on the skin. It is easy to do this yourself using a long, sharp knife, or
just ask your butcher to do it for you. Score the fat with a sharp knife, such as a
Stanley knife if you have one, and place in a shallow dish. Pour over half a kettle
of just-boiled water – this will soften the skin and open up the pores to help the
crackling (pork rinds) develop. Drain off the water and dry the skin on kitchen
paper on both sides. Rub with a light sprinkling of salt. Put the skin onto an oven
rack and set aside.
Rub the meat all over with the halved garlic clove, then season the joint all
over. Put the remaining garlic clove with the vegetables, half of the chopped
apples and 2 of the rosemary sprigs into a large, deep roasting pan and lay the
meat on top. Pour in the wine and water (this can be done in two or three stages
as the liquid evaporates, if your dish isn’t deep enough to hold it all in one go).
Roast the pork in the oven with the skin on the rack above it so that the fat
drips down on to the meat. Cook for 30 minutes then turn down the heat to
180°C (350°F/Gas 4) and continue to cook for another 1– 1½ hours or until the
juices run clear when pierced in the thickest part with a skewer or the meat
measures 71°C (160°F) with a probe thermometer.
When the pork is cooked, remove it from the oven and place on a serving dish
to rest covered in foil and a cloth to keep warm. Let the juices in the pan settle.
Remove the crackling and keep warm, but don’t cover or it could become soggy.
Meanwhile, cook the remaining apples in the butter with the 100 ml (3½ fl
oz/scant ½ cup) water and remaining rosemary sprig in a medium saucepan with
a lid until they are just soft but not collapsed. Skim off the excess oil from the
roasting pan and discard. Pour the meat juices and roasted vegetable and apple
mix into a serving bowl.
Serve the pork with the buttery apples arranged around the joint and the meat
juices and vegetables on the side. Enjoy with the crackling and with mashed or
roast potatoes, or soft polenta, and the Purple Sprouting Broccoli.
ROTOLO DI FARSUMAGRU
ROLLED STUFFED ROAST BEEF
During the French occupation of the island, fancier ways of preparing meat
were introduced. The name of this dish comes from the French words roulé
for rolled and farcie for stuffed. It is a great way to use up leftovers such as
ragu, spinach, roasted vegetables and cooked ham. Don’t feel you have to
use everything we have; you only need enough to give flavour and colour to
the stuffing. The mozzarella can be swapped for provolone or a young
pecorino, and the ham can be swapped for mortadella, to alter the flavour
or to use what you have in the fridge. It is a popular dish as a little meat can
go a long way. We love to cook this at home for a Sunday lunch or to serve
for a dinner party. It looks impressive, as when cut open it reveals the
colourful stuffing inside. It can be eaten hot or at room temperature.
Serves 6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) lean topside of beef
50 g (2 oz/½ stick) salted butter at room temperature
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) white wine
200 g (7 oz) Cherry Tomato Sauce
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) stock or water
100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) frozen or fresh peas
small handful of rosemary sprigs, thyme and oregano (optional)
For the stuffing
200 g (7 oz) thinly cut cooked ham (about 6 large slices)
4 eggs, hard-boiled, shelled and cut into 1 cm (½ in) slices
400 g (14 oz) ragu (1 quantity of the Quick Beef Ragu)
100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) cooked peas
100 g (3½ oz) Parmesan, finely grated
1 x 125 g (4 oz) ball of mozzarella, roughly sliced
string, for tying the meat
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Make a rectangle of the meat
approximately 30 x 25 cm (12 x 10 in) and place on a piece of baking parchment
bigger than this. To do this, cut the meat into slices around 2 cm (¾ in) thick.
Trim away any obvious tough white sinew. Bash the meat out under cling film
(plastic wrap) with a meat tenderiser or the flat of a small saucepan to a
thickness of around 7 mm (just over ¼ in). Lay the pieces down on the
parchment to make up the rectangle, overlapping them a little as necessary to
form a barrier to prevent the stuffing from escaping. Season with salt and
pepper. Lay the cling film over the meat again and give it a gentle bash to secure
the pieces together. Discard the cling film.
First lay on the slices of cooked ham – they will help to keep your stuffing in
place. Now layer on the rest of the stuffing ingredients, leaving a border of 2.5
cm (1 in) clear at one long edge. Season once more. Roll up the beef tightly
starting at the long edge without the border. Secure it with string. Using your
hands, slather the meat with the butter. Put the roll into a roasting tray and bake
for 5 minutes. Pour over the wine and bake again for 10 minutes. Pour the
tomato sauce, stock, peas and any leftover stuffing that didn’t make it inside
around the roll. Tuck some rosemary sprigs and oregano, if you have some, into
the string and scatter over the fennel seeds.
Cook in the oven for 30–40 minutes or until cooked through. The middle
should reach 60°C (140°F) using a probe thermometer, or a skewer inserted into
the middle should be hot when you touch the end. Remove from the oven and
serve with mashed potatoes, buttery soft polenta or brown rice and the Purple
Sprouting Broccoli.
CANNI A CIPPUDDA
BEEF & ONIONS

This is one of my new favourite dishes. It is simple, easy to prepare and
never fails to impress. The meat can be reheated in the sauce so it is good to
cook it and keep it for a couple of meals during the week or prepare it the
day before for a dinner party.
Serves 6
625 g (1 lb 6 oz) topside of beef

2 tablespoons sunflower or groundnut (peanut) oil
50 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
350 g (12 oz) onions, cut in half from root to tip and thinly sliced into half-
moons
500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) dry marsala, sherry or white wine
Let the beef come up to room temperature before cooking. Preheat the oven to
180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Season the beef all over then brown it in the sunflower oil
in a heavy-based casserole dish. Remove the beef and set aside on a plate,
discarding the oil in the pan. Add the butter and olive oil to the casserole and
sweat the onions over a low heat until tender, around 10 minutes. Pour in the
marsala and add the beef. Use a pair of tongs to pile the onions on top of the
beef. Put the lid on the casserole and transfer to the oven for 2 hours.
Remove the beef and let it rest in a warm serving dish covered in foil and a
cloth. If there is a lot of fat, this can be left to settle at this stage and scooped off.
Purée the onions and cooking juices to a smooth sauce with a stick blender or
leave as they are and serve with the beef. This is great with heaps of buttery
mashed potatoes, soft polenta or the Sicilian Chips.
POLLO ALLA PARMIGIANA
CHICKEN PARMIGIANA
The idea of coating flattened meat and vegetables is popular all over Italy.
In the wealthier houses in Sicily, meat was pounded until just a few
millimetres thick and coated with crunchy breadcrumbs and fried. The
poorer households did a similar thing with aubergines (eggplants).
When large numbers of Sicilians emigrated to the US after the Second
World War they took their traditional recipes with them. As they prospered
abroad, they were able to replace the aubergines with chicken and the
famous American-Sicilian dish of chicken parmigiana was born. Now
forgive me if this recipe is a little off-track in a Sicilian cookbook, but our
family happens to love this dish. For authenticity I asked Americans Pat
and Diane Frustaci, of Sicilian descent, and Howard Roseman, who has
knowledge of the dish, to help me out. They all live in New Jersey and work
with my sister Louise. They remember their grandmothers cooking the dish,
the evolution of it over the years, and were happy to help me recreate these
two recipes for the book.
For a healthier choice, instead of frying the chicken, give it a light spray
with olive oil and bake it in the oven until golden. Then follow the recipe as
before. In America, this dish is served with buttered linguine but I prefer it
with sautéed spinach, steamed greens or a salad dressed with lemon and
olive oil.
Use 3 Ways
With chicken,
aubergine,
veal
Serves 4
4 skinless free-range chicken breasts (approximately 500 g/1 lb 2 oz total

weight)
2 teaspoons dried oregano, plus extra to sprinkle
50 g (2 oz/½ cup) ‘00’, plain (all-purpose) or gluten-free flour
2 eggs, beaten
100 g (3½ oz/1 cup) dry gluten-free or wheat breadcrumbs
75 g (2½ oz) finely grated Parmesan
8–10 tablespoons seed or groundnut (peanut) oil for frying
2 garlic cloves, peeled and lightly crushed
1 quantity of Cherry Tomato Sauce
2 x 125 g (4 oz) balls of mozzarella, cut into 1 cm (½ in) slices and drained in a
sieve
a few basil leaves, to garnish
Cut the chicken breasts in half along the side and open them up like a book. Cut
through the spine of each ‘book’ so that you have two separate halves. Place the
halves between two pieces of cling film (plastic wrap) and pound the chicken
breasts with a meat tenderiser or the flat of a small saucepan until around 5 mm
(¼ in) thick. Season with salt and pepper and scatter half the oregano over the
flattened chicken, pressing it in with your hands. Turn the chicken breasts over
and season the other side.
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Prepare three wide bowls, one with
the flour, one with beaten egg and one with breadcrumbs mixed with half the
Parmesan.
Heat a third of the oil with the garlic in a large frying pan and, when you can
smell the garlic, remove the garlic from the pan and set aside. Dip the chicken
breast pieces first in the flour, shaking off any excess, then in the egg and then
the breadcrumbs, making sure they are evenly coated. Pan-fry until light golden
brown on both sides. This should take just a couple of minutes a side. You can
fry the chicken in batches, adding a little more oil and the garlic back into the
pan each time, making sure the oil is hot before frying.
Pour a thin layer of the tomato sauce into a large ovenproof dish and lay over
the chicken pieces. Spoon a heaped tablespoon more sauce over each piece.
Arrange the mozzarella on top of the chicken and scatter over the remaining
Parmesan. Bake in the oven for 10–15 minutes or until the cheese is melted and
the chicken is cooked through (make sure there are no pink juices when you
pierce the thickest part with a skewer or the internal temperature is 85°C (185°F)
when measured with a probe thermometer). Remove from the oven and serve
straight away scattered with the basil.
COTOLETTE ALLA PALERMITANA / PARMIGIANA DI MELANZANE
BREADED VEAL CUTLETS OR AUERGINES PALERMO STYLE
The same can be done with veal or slices of aubergine: follow the instructions
for the Chicken Parmigiana, but pan-fry until cooked through and eat with a
squeeze of lemon rather than baking further (see the photo). The cutlets are very
good with the Sweet & Sour Aubergines.
CARRÈ D’AGNELLO CON GREMOLATA DI AGRUMI
RACK OF LAMB WITH CITRUS GREMOLATA
The citrus perfume from the crust on this lamb as it cooks fills the kitchen
with the scent of summer. It is quick and easy to put together and looks
splendid for a quick supper or entertaining. The recipe is from Roberto
Toro, Head Chef of the elegant restaurant at one of our favourite places to
stay in Sicily, the hotel Belmond Grand Timeo in Taormina. Either serve
the rack of lamb simply with a swirl of your best extra-virgin olive oil or
make a gravy from lamb bones (this can be done the day before).
Serves 4
For the gravy

500 g (17 oz) lamb bones
1 small white or brown onion, peeled and roughly chopped
1 stick of celery and a few leaves, roughly chopped
1 bay leaf
1 sprig rosemary
a few peppercorns
100 ml (3½ fl oz) white wine
3 litres cold water
2 teaspoons cornflour
10 g (¼ oz) butter
salt
2 French-trimmed 8-bone racks of lamb salt and freshly ground black pepper
small handful of mint leaves
2 strips orange zest, peeled from an unwaxed orange with a potato peeler
2 strips lemon zest peeled from an unwaxed lemon with a potato peeler
4 teaspoons Dijon mustard
200 g (7 oz) Swiss chard leaves, stems discarded, or spinach leaves
5 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil, plus extra to finish
1 clove garlic, peeled and lightly crushed
If you are going to make a gravy, fry the bones, onion, celery, carrot, bay leaf,
rosemary and peppercorns in the oil in a large saucepan over a medium–high
heat until lightly golden brown and beginning to stick to the bottom of the pan.
Pour in the wine and allow it to sizzle for a few minutes. Add the water and
bring to the boil. Turn the heat down to simmer and leave the stock to bubble
away for 2–3 hours. Strain the stock through a colander and discard the
flavourings. Put the stock back into the pan over a medium heat and reduce it
further until you have around 500ml (17 fl oz). In a small cup, stir 4 tablespoons
of the stock with the cornflour until it forms a smooth paste. Whisk into the
stock with the butter and season to taste. The gravy is now ready to use straight
away or can be cooled and stored in the fridge until you need it. When ready to
serve, reheat in a small pan.
To cook the rack of lamb, heat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Split the
racks into two. Season the lamb all over and briefly sauté on all sides in a large
frying pan (skillet) with 2 tablespoons of the extra-virgin olive oil.
Finely chop the mint, lemon and orange zest together on a board. Spread it out
into a thin layer.
Spread each rack of lamb with a little mustard and dip it into the chopped
orange, lemon and mint to coat. Place onto a baking tray and cook in the oven
for 12 minutes – it will be pink on the inside.
In the meantime, boil the chard or spinach leaves for a few minutes in salted
water. Drain well and squeeze the excess water away. Sauté with the garlic in the
remaining oil. Put the chard leaves on the plate and lay the rack of lamb on top.
Finish with a swirl of your best extra-virgin olive oil or the lamb gravy.
FISH
From our room in the Palladio hotel in Giardini Naxos we watched the sun
rise and the fishing boats gather in the harbour, obviously preparing to
follow one another to an area where a shoal had been found. Later in the
morning we went to the market with Caterina, the hotel owner, and saw the
fish being brought in from the boats. We bought swordfish, tuna and
sardines and returned to the hotel to cook them with her. ‘It’s all about the
freshness and provenance,’ she said.
The most popular fish in Sicily are tuna and swordfish and you will find them on
menus raw, cooked and smoked, all delicious. There are plenty of other varieties,
referred to as blue for oily fish, red for fish such as tuna and white for the rest.
In Palermo, you can go to the Borgo Vecchio and watch the locals choose
their fish from the fishmonger’s stand and take it to Da Michele, where it will be
cooked right there and then. At the port you can see fishmongers waiting with
their marble slabs and sharp knives at the ready. As soon as the boats come in,
they are all set to start scaling, cleaning and filleting the fish ready to sell.
There are wonderful seafood restaurants, like Sakalleo in Scoglitti, which
have no menu but instead serve a stream of the freshest seafood until you can eat
no more and say, ‘Stop!’
When we were there, a group of Sicilian men descended on the restaurant
Apollonion in Ortigia and clearly relished their food. They were obviously
regulars and knew the owner Carlo well. He was also the chef and ducked in and
out of the kitchen, bringing out enormous platters of shellfish, mussels, fish in
caponata and tuna to the men. He also found time to cuddle his granddaughter
(who will apparently take over the restaurant one day) and clear plates all at the
same time. The men crushed the skeletons of the crustaceans with their hands
and sucked out the insides, mopping up the juices with bread soaked in oil,
oregano and chilli and quaffing short tumblers of Nero d’Avola. They were all
chefs and had just finished cooking pizza at a culinary fair and were enjoying a
day off. ‘When we eat, we are serious,’ one said to us as dish after dish came out
to satisfy their furious appetites. What a wonderful way to spend your day off, I
thought.
SALMONE AL FORNO CON ARANCE E TIMO
SALMON BAKED WITH ORANGES & THYME
Oranges of various types are available most of the year round in Sicily but
the most popular, the blood orange Tarocco, can only be found in the winter
months. Salmon stands up well to the sweet flavour of orange and, married
with the thyme and pepper, this incredibly simple dish becomes more
impressive than the sum of its parts.
Serves 4
2 sweet oranges
4 salmon fillets (approximately 700 g/1 lb 9 oz total weight)
a few sprigs of thyme, leaves stripped
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Cut away the skin and all the white
pith from the oranges. Neatly cut the segments from between the membrane and
set aside, collecting any juice in a bowl. Make four cuts into the salmon fillets at
a 45 degree angle, stopping 1 cm (½ in) short of the skin. Insert an orange
segment into each cut and put the fillets (skin side down) into an ovenproof dish.
Scatter over the thyme leaves and season the fish with salt and plenty of pepper.
Pour over the reserved orange juice, olive oil and wine. Scatter any remaining
segments of orange around the fish. Bake for 20 minutes or until the fish is firm
to the touch and cooked through. Serve hot with the Purple Sprouting Broccoli
or the Couscous Salad.
SAUTÈ DI COZZE
SAUTÉED MUSSELS IN GARLIC & WHITE WINE
Much of the west of the island is uninhabited; it is raw and wild, with
random deserted towns, stunning beaches and pretty countryside. In the
middle of nowhere is the village of Cozze, meaning mussels, presumably
where they grew naturally.
The isolated Cozzara restaurant just outside the village is a magnet for
the locals, who come from miles around to eat steaming bowls of the
freshest mussels you are likely to taste. There was what seemed to be a
bottomless bowl of the most delicious seafood, and charred yellow semola
toast to soak up the incredible fish juices in the soup. We used one mussel
shell to pick at the plump pinky-orange morsels inside the rest. Tanks of
seawater outside keep the fish fresh until just before they are cooked. A
huge tank full of lobsters was down to its last by the end of the night. Now I
know why people drive miles just to get here. It is an eating experience like
no other.
Serves 4
3 garlic cloves, peeled and thinly sliced
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) fresh live mussels, cleaned and debearded
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) white wine large handful of parsley, finely
chopped
Heat the oil with the garlic and some seasoning in a large frying pan with a lid.
When you can smell the garlic, add the mussels and wine. Cover and cook,
shaking the pan frequently. When the last mussel opens (discard any that stay
shut), add the parsley and serve straight away with the Sicilian Focaccia.
TRANCIO DI TONNO IN CROSTA DI QUINOA SU ZUCCHINE NOVELLE
TUNA STEAKS IN A QUINOA CRUST ON COURGETTES
This light and lovely dish comes from the stunning Belmond Grand Hotel
Timeo in Taormina. The method of cooking the tuna in a crust in the oven
means that it is a fantastic dish for entertaining, and we love the contrast of
the buttery, crunchy coating and the pink rare tuna inside. It is also gluten-
free. A quicker version if you are in a hurry is to coat the fish in finely
crushed pistachios instead. The courgette (zucchini) batons are so easy to
make they have become a staple vegetable in our house. I have even had
them for breakfast with scrambled eggs.
100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) quinoa

280 ml (9¾ fl oz/scant 1¼ cups) water
25 g (1 oz/2 tablespoons) salted butter
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) freshly squeezed orange juice
50 g (2 oz/scant ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
80 ml (2¾ fl oz/⅓ cup) white wine vinegar
6 cardamom pods, lightly crushed to open them
1 star anise
1 teaspoon black peppercorns
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) sustainably caught fresh tuna, cut into 4 or 6 steaks
1 egg white, loosely beaten
2 courgettes (zucchini), cut into julienne strips
sea salt flakes
a few micro leaves or mint, to garnish
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Cook the quinoa in the water with a
pinch of salt until the liquid evaporates completely. Keep stirring the pan with a
wooden spoon; the quinoa will crackle and won’t cook through but you will
have a lovely crunchy result. Melt the butter in a frying pan and add the dried-
out quinoa. Sauté the quinoa until it turns golden brown – around 5 minutes
should do it. Transfer to a large plate and allow to cool.
Mix the orange juice, sugar and vinegar together in a saucepan and bring to
the boil, then reduce the heat and let the sauce bubble for 5 minutes. Remove
from the heat and add the spices. Let them infuse for 20 minutes and then strain
the sauce through a sieve into a bowl.
Season the tuna steaks with salt. Dip them in the egg white and then in the
crispy quinoa and bake in an ovenproof dish for 6 minutes. Meanwhile, sauté the
courgettes in the oil with a little seasoning for just a couple of minutes and place
some in the centre of each plate. Cut the tuna steaks in half, put them on the
zucchini and drizzle over a little of the spiced orange sauce, with a few splashes
around the plate. Serve straight away garnished with some sea salt flakes and a
few micro or mint leaves.
Variation: Coat the tuna steaks in 50 g (2 oz) peeled green pistachios roughly
ground in a food processor instead of the quinoa.
PESCE SPADA CON SALMORIGLIO
SWORDFISH WITH SALMORIGLIO SAUCE

This sauce works well on more or less all types of fish: try grilled (broiled)
prawns (shrimp), sea bream fillets, roasted whole sea bass or tuna steaks. It
is good on grilled chicken and lamb, too. We have also included it in the
vegetable chapter, to use on courgette (zucchini) ribbons, but the process is
a little different for fish.
Serves 4
4 swordfish steaks
For the salmoriglio dressing
2 tablespoons parsley, finely chopped
1 small garlic clove, peeled and finely chopped
1 heaped teaspoon fresh or dried oregano
2 tablespoons lemon juice
To make the dressing, put the parsley and garlic together in a bowl, pour over 3
tablespoons of boiling water and add the oregano. Use the back of a spoon to
press the herbs and garlic down in the water – this helps to release the essential
oils and adds to the flavour. Pour in the oil and set aside to cool. Add the lemon
juice and season to taste.
Marinate the fish in half the dressing for 30 minutes, but no longer than 1 hour
or it will start to ‘cook’ in the acidity of the lemon. Grill (broil), barbecue or
cook in a griddle pan with a little olive oil for 1–2 minutes on each side or until
just cooked. If you can, turn the fish 180 degrees midway through so that it has
an attractive crosshatch pattern on the outside. Serve with the remaining dressing
on the side and with the Couscous Salad or the Orange & Fennel Salad.
TONNO UBRIACO CON CIPOLLE IN AGRODOLCE
DRUNKEN TUNA WITH SWEET & SOUR ONIONS
A full-bodied red wine such as the Sicilian Nero d’Avola is ideal for this
recipe from Gregorio Piazza, our Sicilian head chef from our restaurant
Caldesi in Campagna. The sauce can be left as just that, a sauce.
Alternatively, it can be reduced further to the sticky stage of a relish, which
makes it ideal to eat with cheese, sausages or the Sardine Patties. Both the
sauce and the relish can be stored in the fridge for up to a week.
Use 3 Ways
With fishm
cheese,
sausages
Serves 4–6
3 red onions, cut in half from root to tip and sliced into 5 mm (¼ in) half-moons
1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly sliced
25 g (1 oz/scant ¼ cup) sultanas (golden raisins)
50 g (2 oz/scant ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
400 ml (13 fl oz/1¾ cups) red wine, such as Nero d’Avola
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) sustainably caught fresh tuna, cut into 4–6 steaks
25 g (1 oz/2 tablespoons) salted butter a little parsley, finely chopped
Put the onions and garlic into a large non-stick frying pan with 4 tablespoons of
the oil and some seasoning. Sweat them gently for 30 minutes, or until really soft
and dark in colour. Add the sultanas, sugar and half the wine and cook slowly
for 10–15 minutes to reduce the wine. Stop when the reduction has the
consistency of a sauce (or reduce further to a relish).
Season the tuna with salt and pepper and fry in the remaining oil in a pan for
about 2 minutes each side. Pour in the remaining wine and let it bubble and
reduce for a couple of minutes. Tip the pan to one side to collect the sauce and
spoon it over the fish. Add a good spoonful of the onions to the pan and top with
a knob of butter. Shake the pan to combine. You might not be able to do this all
in one go, in which case cook two steaks at a time, each with a little of the wine
and butter, and leave on a warm plate while you cook the rest. Serve the tuna
with the onions on top and garnished with a little parsley. This is good with the
Sicilian Chips, mashed potato or sautéed spinach.
SCOMBRO GRIGLIATO CON CAPONATA
GRIDDLED MACKEREL WITH CAPONATA

Originally caponata was always made with fish but in the hands of the poor,
who couldn’t afford fish, aubergines (eggplants) were used instead.
Nowadays, it is eaten with both. It can be made a couple of days in advance
and kept in the fridge. In fact, the flavour of caponata is always better a day
or two after it’s made, but be sure to bring it to room temperature before
using.
We use our griddle pan for cooking the fish as I like the visual effect of
the black lines on the fish and the fact that the fat drains away into the
grooves of the pan. However, a hot grill in the oven or a rack over a
barbecue work just as well. Sardines or sea bass or bream are ideal cooked
in this way too, and the jewel-like sweet and sour caponata is the perfect foil
for all types of fish
Use 3 Ways
With meat,
fish, cheese
Serves 4
4 mackerel fillets
1 quantity of caponata handful of parsley, roughly chopped
Put a griddle pan over a medium heat to get it hot. Brush the mackerel fillets
with olive oil on both sides and season with salt and pepper. Place the fillets
skin-side down on the hot griddle pan and cook for around 3 minutes until the
skin is crispy. Turn and cook the fillets on the other side for 2 minutes or until
cooked through. Remove from the pan with a fish slice and lay on warm serving
plates. Serve with the caponata on the side and scattered with parsley. The
Sicilian Chips or a simple green salad go well with this dish.
SARDE A BECCAFICO
STUFFED SARDINES WITH SPINACH PINE NUTS & RAISINS
Originally, this dish was made with small birds. Translated literally,
beccafico means ‘fig-peckers’. You will find various forms of this traditional
Sicilian dish all over the island. This is Gregorio Piazza’s way of cooking it;
he comes from Augusta, to the east of Sicily, where they use spinach and
oranges.
Serves 6
500 g (1 lb 2 oz) spinach

1 garlic clove, peeled and roughly sliced
50 g (2 oz/⅓ cup) pine nuts
50 g (2 oz/⅓ cup) sultanas (golden raisins), soaked in warm water for 30 minutes
40 g (1½ oz/½ cup) fresh breadcrumbs, made from the inside of a crusty loaf
(can be gluten-free)
12 fresh sardines, heads removed and filleted (360 g/12½ oz after cleaning)
1 orange, sliced
8 bay leaves
12 cocktail sticks
Steam the spinach briefly until soft. Drain and allow to cool. Squeeze out the
water so that you have a dryish ball of spinach. Chop it finely on a board. Heat 3
tablespoons of the oil in a large frying pan and fry the garlic for just a minute
over a medium heat. Add the spinach to the pan and season. Use a wooden
spoon to stir it around.
Put the pine nuts and sultanas on a board and roughly chop them together,
then add to the pan with the spinach and stir through. Cook for around 5
minutes, stirring continuously. Remove from the heat and allow to cool. Mix
with the breadcrumbs in a bowl.
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3) and grease an ovenproof dish with 1
tablespoon of the oil. Lay the sardine fillets on a chopping board, season lightly
with salt and pepper and drizzle 1 tablespoon of the oil over them. Place a
sardine in the palm of your hand, lay a line of stuffing down the spine, roll up
the fish and secure with a cocktail stick. Repeat with the rest of the sardines and
put them all into the dish. Put the orange slices and bay leaves between the fish.
Drizzle over the remaining olive oil and bake in the oven for 20–25 minutes.
Serve warm or at room temperature with antipasti, or as a main course with salad
or rice.
BRANZINO AL CARTOCCIO CON SALSA DI SFINCIONE
SEA BASS BAKED IN A PARCEL WITH SFINCIONE SAUCE

This simple recipe can be made with most white fish, such as sea bream,
cod, halibut or hake. The sfincione sauce is really versatile and in this recipe
it is used as a base for steamed white fish in a parcel. Cooking ‘al cartoccio’,
in a parcel, is one of my favourite ways to cook fish. When our boys were
growing up I used to get them to make up their own parcels, adding their
favourite ingredients to the fish inside, such as cherry tomatoes, parsley or
finely sliced courgettes (zucchini). Then they would write their names on the
outside of the parcel to claim ownership!
Serves 4
300 g (10½ oz) sfincione sauce

4 sea bass or sea bream fillets
8 teaspoons extra-virgin olive oil
4 sprigs of flat-leaf parsley
120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) white wine
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Spread 4 sheets of baking parchment
out on a work surface and spoon on 4 even portions of the sauce. Lay over the
fillets, drizzle a couple of teaspoons of olive oil over each one and season with
salt and pepper. Place a parsley sprig on each fillet, then wrap up the parcels like
presents by pulling the parchment up from the front and back to the centre. Fold
the top edges together over and over again, leaving the join in the centre, then
turn the side ends inwards several times to seal in the juices. Place the parcels on
a baking tray and put into the oven for 12–15 minutes. Feel the fish from the
outside of the bag to make sure it is firm to the touch. Remove, unwrap the
centre join carefully to let out the steam and bring to the table still al cartoccio.
Serve with heaps of courgettes (zucchini) from the tuna recipe.
ALLA GHIOTTA
SWORDFISH WITH TOMATOES CAPERS & OLIVES

Caterina, passionate foodie and owner of the charming Palladio hotel in
Giardini Naxos, took us on a trip to the local fish market. She showed us a
huge swordfish being filleted and told us to use a belly cut or other fatty
area of the fish for this recipe. However, if you can’t find this cut I have
used the standard swordfish steaks you find in most supermarkets with a
fish counter and it is still delicious. Alla ghiotta, meaning ‘glutton-style’, is a
speciality of the Messina area in the north-east of the island.
Serves 4

1 celery stalk, finely sliced
100 g (3½ oz) fresh tomatoes, diced, or cherry tomatoes, cut in half
a little red chilli, finely chopped
2 tablespoons raisins
small handful of green olives, stoned and split in two
2 tablespoons salted capers, soaked and drained
100 g (3½ oz/generous ⅓ cup) tinned chopped tomatoes
600 g (1 lb 5 oz) swordfish, cut into 4 steaks
Cook the onion and celery in the oil with 4 tablespoons of water over a low heat
until very soft – this will take 10–15 minutes. Turn the heat up a little and add
the fresh tomatoes, chilli, raisins and pine nuts. Cover and cook for 5 minutes,
then add the olives, capers and tinned tomatoes and cover again. Add the fish
after about 5 minutes, when the tomatoes have broken down. Leave to simmer,
covered, for 15–20 minutes until the fish is cooked through and the sauce has
concentrated. Check the seasoning and serve with fresh crusty bread.
DOLCI
Sicily is known to be one of the best places in the world for its dazzling
array of sweet delights – patisserie, gelati, granite, marzipan, cannoli and
cassata, to name just a few. With its bounty of citrus fruits, wonderful
sheep’s milk ricotta, almonds and pistachios, as well as the Arab influence
and the once thriving sugar industry, it is no surprise that Sicily is the place
to go if you have a sweet tooth.
It was the Arabs who first mixed the snow from Mount Etna with fruit-flavoured
syrups to produce sherbets, which were later turned into granite. They made
marzipan cubes from water, almonds, honey and gela, a firm jelly made from the
juice of watermelons and cinnamon. They also introduced the flavours of
jasmine, orange water and rose, still popular today, and they sweetened ricotta
with sugar and added spice, which began the history of the cassata and cannoli. I
haven't included either cassata or cannoli here as I feel they are pastries that
really only work in Sicily. The sheep’s ricotta, which is so hard to find in the
UK, is what gives the pleasant tang to the desserts and helps to balance the
incredible sweetness.
The Spanish brought cocoa beans into Modica from Mexico and at the well-
known chocolate shop Dolceria Bonajuto chocolate is produced using the same
techniques as centuries ago. They use cocoa mass as it is, with no added cocoa
butter or soy lecithin. It goes into a double boiler at 40°C (104°F), which doesn’t
melt the sugar. The grainy texture is an acquired taste. It isn’t important to them
that the sugar melts – the important thing is that the cocoa has 100 per cent
flavour.
The traditional flavourings have always been vanilla and cinnamon and the
best quality you can get. The staff will tell you that the cocoa changes the
flavour of the spice, not the other way around. They run tours so that you can see
the chocolatiers shaking the tins during the battitura as the chocolate cools. The
chocolate was originally used in a drink, which they still make every Christmas.
They also produce a delicious liqueur which is a tribute to the Maya tradition of
mixing chocolate and chilli. Do pick up a bottle when visiting – it is wonderful
on a cold night.
The famous patisserie Casatelle at Erice should probably come with a health
warning. The sweets behind the counter are perfectly beautiful and totally
irresistible. If you are cutting down on sugar, beware the temptations in Sicily!
ALMONDS
The sweet smell of the almond blossom is wonderful in spring and it is a great
time to visit the island. Ground almonds are widely used in Sicilian cooking:
they are ground into cakes, used to make milk, ice cream and granite, as well as
chopped and added to salads, couscous and aubergine (eggplant) dishes.
LATTE DI MANDORLE
ALMOND MILK
This recipe is based on the one from our book Venice: Recipes Lost and
Found. Almond milk has been made since medieval times in Europe and
was thought to have restorative properties. It was useful as you could make
it as you needed it, rather than cow’s milk, which would have required
refrigeration. This same method can be followed to make hazelnut milk. Use
the nut milk for the Almond Granita, the Almond Milk Puddings or simply
to drink. This recipe will give you a distinctive almond flavour and thickish
milk. If you don’t want the bits or you want a thinner milk, you can strain it
and add more water, but I like to keep them in. If you do strain it, dry the
almond meal out in a low oven and, when completely dry, store in an
airtight container. Use it whenever ground almonds are called for,
particularly in the Almond & Pecorino Biscuits.
Use 3 Ways
To drink, for
granite, for
biscuits
To make almond milk, place 100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) shelled but not peeled
almonds in enough cold water to cover them and soak overnight; change the
water once during this time. Strain, discard the water and put the nuts into a food
processor. Blend them with 400 ml (13 fl oz/1¾ cups) of filtered water until
finely ground. Pour into a large lidded jug or bowl, cover and store in the fridge
for up to 3 days.
PASTA REALE
MARZIPAN
From almonds we move on to marzipan, which is called pasta reale, ‘royal
paste’, in Sicily. A mixture of sugar, almonds and egg whites, marzipan can
be sculpted into shapes and sets firm while maintaining a soft interior. We
were struck by the wonderful marzipan sweets on sale in Peccatucci di
Mamma Andrea, Piazza Ignazio Florio in Palermo, where rows of plump
globes of chocolate, lemon, orange or pistachio marzipan line up for you to
pop into your mouth. They are not too sweet and have none of the synthetic
flavours that seem to put people off marzipan. I never liked it as a child but
now I have learnt to make it, I have finally caught the bug.
Apparently, when an important bishop came to visit the Martorana
convent attached to the church of Santa Maria dell’Ammiraglio in Palermo,
the nuns shaped fruits from marzipan and hung them in the trees. Since
then marzipan fruits have been called frutta di Martorana, and to this day
children receive them on All Souls’ Day, the equivalent of our Halloween.
Makes approximately 1 kg (2 lb 3 oz)
160 ml (5½ fl oz/⅔ cup) water

1 tablespoon liquid glucose
1 teaspoon almond extract
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/4 cups) icing (confectioner’s) sugar
500 g (1 lb 2 oz/5 cups) ground almonds
flavourings of your choice, to taste (optional)
Put the water into a saucepan and bring to the boil. Add the glucose and stir
through with a wooden spoon. Add the almond extract and the sugar and stir
again. Keep over a low heat and add the ground almonds a little at a time,
stirring continuously, until fully combined and formed into a ball of dough.
Remove from the saucepan and put onto a clean worktop. If the marizpan is
sticky, dust the work surface and your hands with a little icing sugar.
At this point you can knead in the flavourings of your choice, such as finely
grated citrus zest or rosewater – or any others that spring to mind! Add them
according to taste.
Next, roll the marzipan into little balls and either keep them as they are or
form into shapes. Leave them to dry slightly overnight at room temperature.
They will keep for up to a month in a sealed container.
BISCOTTI ALLA SICILIANA
SOFT ALMOND BISCUITS

These biscuits have been favourites of ours since our earliest visits to Sicily
almost 20 years ago. Little did we know that they would become a staple in
our house when we found out Giancarlo couldn't eat gluten any more. The
biscuits can be flavoured with the addition of a little lemon or orange zest.
Makes 15–18 biscuits
150 g (5 oz/scant 1½ cups) ground almonds

75 g (2½ oz/scant ⅔ cup) icing (confectioner’s) sugar
1 tablespoon runny honey
1 teaspoon almond extract
25 ml (1 fl oz) egg white (approximately 1 medium egg)
To decorate or flavour
jam of your choice
walnuts or almonds
parchment. Mix together the ground almonds and icing sugar. Add the honey,
almond extract and egg white and mix until you have a smooth paste. Roll the
paste into small balls, approximately 3 cm (1¼ in) wide, and press the centre
down lightly with your thumb to make a small well. Place the biscuits on the
baking tray, pour ½ teaspoon of your favourite jam into the centre of each one or
press a nut into the well. Bake in the oven for 10–12 minutes or until lightly
golden. Remove from the oven and transfer to a wire rack to cool. Keep in an
airtight container for up to a week, although they will harden with time.
TORTA DI MARMELLATA AI MANDARINI
CLEMENTINE & ALMOND SLICE

We first saw these deliciously bittersweet biscuits (see the photo) when we
had tea at the house of our friends Giuseppe and Chetina while they talked
to us about Sicily’s rich culinary history. They had huge old jars which were
used to preserve fruit through winter and they introduced me to the
Clementine Marmalade. I loved it inside the pastry. The marmalade is low-
sugar, so if you are using shop-bought do find one that is similar or it will be
too sweet for the cake.
Serves 10–12
unsalted butter, for greasing

280 g (10 oz/scant cup) low-sugar orange marmalade or homemade Clementine
Marmalade
2 teaspoons icing (confectioner’s) sugar
100 g (3½ oz/generous 1 cup) flaked almonds
Shortcrust pastry
100 g (3½ oz/generous ¾ cup) icing (confectioner’s) sugar
2 egg yolks
finely grated zest of ½ orange or 1 clementine
250 g (9 oz/2 cups) ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting
125 g (4 oz/½ cup) chilled salted butter
Make the pastry by mixing all the ingredients together briefly in a food
processor. Try to touch the pastry as little as possible. Cover with cling film
(plastic wrap) and rest in the fridge for at least 1 hour or overnight.
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3) and grease a 36 x 13 cm (14¼ x 5
in) (or similar size) loose-bottomed shallow, fluted tart tin with a generous
coating of butter. Roll out the chilled pastry on a well-floured surface to a
thickness of about 5 mm (¼ in). Roll onto the rolling pin and transfer to the tart
tin. Push the pastry well into the corners and mend any holes. Trim round the
edge of the tin and gather the remaining pastry together into a ball. Cover with
cling film and put in the fridge. Meanwhile, pour a layer of marmalade over the
pastry in the tin.
Remove the pastry ball from the fridge, unwrap it, and coarsely grate it over
the marmalade. Mix the icing sugar and almonds together in a bowl and scatter
evenly over the top. Bake in the oven for 30 minutes or until the almonds are
lightly caramelised. Allow to cool before removing from the tin and cutting into
slices.
GRANITE/GRANITA DI MANDORLE
GRANITE
The texture of granita changes from one café or kiosk to another – it can be
smooth and slushy or rougher and grainier to eat. A version seen in Sicily
and Rome is grated ice with various fruit syrups of your choice poured over.
Hundreds of years in between but remarkably similar to the Arab sherbets
from centuries before.
ALMOND GRANITA
Sitting between the orange baroque buildings in the stunning town of Noto
we delighted in sampling the local almond granita. Just as well it was served
in small glasses, as it was incredibly sweet, but it was lovely to feel the tiny
ice crystals melt on your tongue. I have cut the sugar right back in this
recipe but do add more if you have a sweet tooth.
Serves 4 in shot glasses
1 tablespoon icing (confectioner’s) sugar
200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) homemade Almond Milk
Stir the sugar into the milk in a shallow freezer-proof container and freeze for 1
hour. Use a fork to scrape the mixture from the edges of the container into the
creamy centre. Freeze again for 30 minutes and do the same again. Repeat until
the granita has completely frozen into a sandy texture of ice crystals. You can
either leave it grainy like this or put it into a food processor and briefly blitz to
reduce it to a velvety smooth consistency instead. Serve straight away in chilled
shot glasses with teaspoons.
GRANITE
COFFEE GRANITA
Swap the almond milk for black filter coffee and sweeten to taste. Freeze as on
granite. To be very Sicilian, slap a scoop of this between a brioche bun and add
whipped cream. This is a Sicilian breakfast – wow!
RASPBERRY GRANITA
You will very often see mulberry granita on offer in Sicily but as mulberries
are hard to find here in the UK we have made a raspberry version instead.
It is refreshing served over a simple fresh fruit salad or as a wonderful
palate cleanser between courses. Any leftover granita can be spooned into
ice-cold flute glasses and topped up with Prosecco or champagne for a
decadent treat.
Serves 4 in shot glasses
400 g (14 oz/3¼ cups) raspberries

120 ml (4 fl oz/½ cup) water
4 tablespoons icing (confectioner’s) sugar
Blend the ingredients together in a food processor and freeze as on granite.

SICILIAN ICE CREAM
Look in any guidebook and it will tell you not to miss the experience of eating
ice cream in Sicily. In the lower main square outside the Duomo di San Giorgio
in Ragusa Ibla is the specialist ice-cream shop Gelati di Vini. Do pay a visit and
sit outside in the square while you eat ice cream and admire the pastel-coloured
houses – obviously painted to match the flavours in the shop, we thought. We
met a lovely English couple who didn’t mind us dipping into their ices, and
between us we tasted rose, jasmine, fichi d’India, Moscato, Mayan specialities
with chocolate and spices, cinnamon and chilli, toasted almond packed with
nuts, olive oil flavour and even a deep purple beetroot. These are proper artisanal
ice creams made with love and care.
GELATI SICILIANI
THE ICE-CREAM BASE

This base has been extensively researched and developed by our good friend
and ice-cream appassionato Steve Adams. Personally, I think it was all a
ruse simply to eat more of the stuff, but I have to say it is the best gelato I
have ever tasted. He puts it all down to resting the base in the fridge for up
to three days; it is smoother, thicker and has a velvety consistency as you
eat it.
Serves 8 (makes approximately 800 ml/28 fl oz)
500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) whole milk

200 ml (7 fl oz/scant 1 cup) double (heavy) cream
125 g (4 oz/generous ½ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
6 egg yolks
In a large saucepan, heat the milk and cream together over a medium heat until
just bubbling. Meanwhile, in a large bowl beat together the eggs and sugar until
smooth. Add 2 ladlefuls of hot milk to the egg mixture and immediately whisk
together. Pour this back into the pan and whisk everything together until
thickened.
To sterilise the ice cream, turn up the heat and increase the temperature of the
mixture to 85°C (185°F), stirring constantly. If you don’t have a thermometer,
this is the point when the ice cream coats the back of a spoon. Take off the heat
immediately and pour into a large heatproof bowl. To cool quickly, set this bowl
over another bowl full of iced water, and then cover the surface of the custard
with cling film (plastic wrap) to stop a skin from forming. Stir every so often to
help it cool evenly. When cool, pass the custard through a fine sieve. The custard
can be made into ice cream straight away, or, like Steve, you can rest it for up to
3 days in the fridge for a fuller flavour and velvety texture. Churn in an ice-
cream machine or by hand using the method below.
Making ice cream without an ice-cream machine

If you don’t have an ice-cream machine, when the custard is cool, pass it through
a sieve into a shallow, freezer-proof container and put it into the freezer. Whisk
the mixture every hour for 4 hours to break down the ice crystals as they form.
When it has all frozen it is ready to eat, or cover and leave for another day. An
alternative method is to freeze the mixture in ice cube trays or small yoghurt pots
and, when frozen, tip the contents into a food processor and blend to break up
the ice crystals. Cover and freeze again straight away before it has a chance to
melt. This is the quickest and easiest way to do it, and it results in a smooth
gelato, but you do need space in your freezer and a sturdy food processor.
GELATI SICILIANI
ROSE
We tried spritzing some of our Welsh rosewater, Petals from the Valley, directly
on to the frozen ice cream just before serving. It is wonderful and makes you feel
like someone has just given you a bouquet of roses, told you they love you and
asked you to marry them! However, if you don’t have a spray to hand add
approximately 3–4 tablespoons of rosewater (depending on your taste and brand
of rosewater) to the hot custard. Taste and adjust accordingly.
VANILLA
Sitting on this terrace at Sant’Andrea hotel in Taormina eating cool vanilla ice
cream in the hot sun was heavenly. Add the seeds of a vanilla pod to the custard
base while it is still hot. Leave the pod in the mixture too until you are ready to
churn.
CHOCOLATE & CINNAMON

This is a flavour inspired by the amusing and unusual Dolceria Bonajuto
chocolate shop in Modica, where they sell a Mayan-inspired liqueur made from
chocolate and spices. Add 200 g (7 oz) dark (bittersweet) chocolate (minimum
70% cocoa solids), broken into small pieces, into the hot custard, off the heat, as
soon as it thickens, with 2 teaspoons ground cinnamon and a pinch of salt. Taste
and adjust the salt and cinnamon flavours as necessary. For a kick of heat, add a
dried red chilli to the milk and cream as they heat. Remove before freezing.
SAFFRON
Saffron strands will vary in flavour depending on their age and quality. To make
this, we use 3 level teaspoons of saffron strands. Add to the base while it is still
hot, according to taste – you may find you need more or less than our
measurement. Do bear in mind that you need a fairly robust flavour as the
strength softens when it is frozen.
CLEMENTINE
We love the subtle flavour of clementines but you could use any citrus fruit to
flavour the ice cream as follows: add 2 teaspoons of finely grated clementine
zest to the hot custard base.
VANILLA OLIVE OIL

This brilliantly simple idea comes from the restaurant in Palermo called Bio and
Sicily. ‘Bio’ means organic and the restaurant specialises in zero-kilometre food
that is grown organically. In this case, they have used a local light oil and in the
words of the manager, Marco Piraino, ‘mixed it with vanilla pods and time’.
We make small amounts as, although it keeps well in a small bottle, a little
olive oil on a dessert goes a long way. Simply put around 50 ml (2 fl oz/¼ cup)
of a delicate light extra-virgin olive oil in a jar and mix with the seeds of a
vanilla pod and the bean cut into a few pieces so that it fits in the jar. Screw on
the lid and leave in a cool, dark place for at least 3 days and up to 10 days. The
flavour will develop with time. When you are ready to use it, shake the bottle to
distribute the vanilla seeds and drizzle over ice cream, whipped cream and
berries or fresh fruit salad.
Use 3 Ways
Strawberries
not cream, ice
cream, fruit
salad
BISCOTTI DI CARRUBE
CAROB BISCUITS
Carob trees are plentiful in Sicily. Historically, they provided shade for
cattle and the beans became fodder for the animals. In hard times carob
beans were ground into flour, which is naturally sweet and has a lovely
caramel flavour; it was used to replace coffee in drinks and precious
chocolate, luxuries out of the reach of Sicily’s poor. I have also heard of
carob gnocchi.
I buy huge bags of almonds as I love the milk they produce. They are
cheaper and I believe better for you when they are still brown and in their
thin skins but the recipe will work if you only have blanched almonds. I use
the leftover almond meal from making Almond Milk, and soft Medjool
dates as I like their natural sweetness, but if you prefer you can add sugar
instead.
Makes approximately 20 biscuits
200 g (7 oz/1⅓ cups) almonds

100 g (3½ oz/scant 1 cup) carob flour
3 egg whites
100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) salted butter
6 Medjool dates, stoned, or 1 tablespoon caster (superfine) sugar
parchment. Put the almonds into a food processor and grind to a sandy texture.
Add the remaining ingredients and blend again to combine. You should end up
with a soft and sticky dough.
Wet your hands with water and roll walnut-sized balls of dough. Lay them on
the prepared tray, spaced apart by at least 5 cm (2 in). Flatten them slightly with
the back of a damp fork or spoon and bake in the oven for 8–10 minutes, or until
the biscuits start to crack and become firm to the touch.
Variations: Add the seeds of 4 cardamom pods or 2 teaspoons of ground

cinnamon to the mix for a wonderfully spiced flavour.
SEMIFREDDO AL MARSALA
MARSALA SEMIFREDDO WITH CARAMELISED NUTS & RED

WINE REDUCTION
On the hilltop above Cefalù in the tiny village of Sant’Ambrogio you will
find a gem of a restaurant owned by the Zito family. Mimmo, the owner and
chef, let me try his latest invention of wild fennel semifreddo. I’m afraid you
will have to take my word for the fact it was wonderful – sadly, I was unable
to extract the recipe from him as he had just made it up that morning and
had no quantities to give me! Instead, we also loved the creamy marsala
semifreddo below, with its surprise of caramelised nuts inside and its
indulgent, warm red wine sauce.
Serves 8–10
For the semifreddo

3 eggs, separated
400 ml (13 fl oz/1¾ cups) whipping cream
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
150 g (5 oz/⅔ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
75 ml (2½ fl oz/⅓ cup) marsala or other sweet wine
For the caramelised nuts
50 g (2 oz/¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) whole blanched or unblanched almonds and pistachios
For the sauce
250 ml (8½ fl oz/1 cup) good red wine
35 g (1¼ oz/scant ¼ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
2 tablespoons runny honey
1 small strip of orange zest
First make the caramelised nuts. Line a baking tray with baking parchment.
Dissolve the sugar in a small saucepan with the nuts over a medium heat. Stir
with a wooden spoon and cook until the sugar starts to smell like caramel and
deepens in colour. Pour on to the baking parchment and leave to set. Fill the
saucepan with hot water straight away to avoid a sticky pan – be careful when
doing this as it will spatter and spit. The nuts will set to a brittle toffee and
should then be roughly cut with a sharp knife, or you can pop them into a food
processor and give them a quick blitz. Ideally, you want them roughly chopped
rather than crushed to a sandy texture.
For the semifreddo, line a 22 x 10 cm (8½ x 4 in) loaf tin with cling film
(plastic wrap). Work quickly through the process of whipping by having
everything in bowls in front of you. Beat the egg whites in a spotlessly clean
bowl with an electric whisk until stiff and set aside. Use the same beaters to
whisk the cream until it maintains soft peaks. Whip the remaining ingredients
together until creamy and well combined, around 5 minutes.
Now, again using the beaters, briefly whisk the two creams together and then
add the egg whites. Don’t over-whisk but whisk just enough to combine the
mixture. Pour half the mixture into the loaf tin, then add the nuts in a line down
the centre so they won’t be seen from the outside (reserve a few for decoration).
Cover with the remaining mixture and freeze for at least 3 hours and preferably
overnight. When it is frozen, remove from the tin and cover in another layer of
cling film.
Make the wine sauce by reducing the ingredients in a pan to roughly a third of
the original volume. It will take around 15 minutes to thicken; you can drizzle a
few drops on to a cold plate to see how thick and viscous it is when cold (like
making jam). When you are happy that it is thick enough, remove from the heat
and allow to cool. Pour into a serving jug.
When ready to serve, peel away the cling film and place the semifreddo on a
serving dish. Leave at room temperature for around 10 minutes before slicing
and serving scattered with the reserved nuts and the wine sauce on the side.
MELE COTOGNE ALLA ANNA
QUINCES ALLA ANNA

Anna is a friend of ours who is widely travelled and she remembered a dish
from one of her trips that tasted of perfume, fruit and spice. Together we
recreated this dish with some quinces left over from making Quince Paste.
It is an easy dessert to serve with cream or ice cream and wonderful for
breakfast the next day with yoghurt and toasted nuts.
Serves 4–6
2 quinces
juice of ½ lemon
2 tablespoons brandy (optional)
juice of 1 orange
100 g (3½ oz/½ cup) brown sugar
finely grated zest of ½ orange
4 cloves
1 medium cinnamon stick, broken up
Preheat the oven to 180°C (350°F/Gas 4). Core and peel the quinces and finely
slice into cold water with the lemon juice – this will stop them turning black.
Arrange the quince slices in an ovenproof dish so that they are slightly
overlapping. Pour over the brandy (if using) and orange juice, then scatter over
the brown sugar, orange zest, cloves and cinnamon. Bake for 1 hour or until
lightly browned and softened inside. Halfway through the cooking time, tip the
dish to one side and spoon the juices over the quinces, then continue cooking.
Serve hot or allow to come to room temperature. Serve with the Rose or Saffron
Ice Cream on gelati siciliani.
FRITELLE DI ZUCCA
PUMPKIN FRITTERS
These are amazing, especially with Nutella spread on top as my children do
– I hate to admit it, but wow! Since all flours and pumpkins differ in
moisture content it is really important to be prepared to adjust the quantity
of each. Add a little more flour if necessary, until you achieve the
consistency of a thick batter. You can make the batter the night before and
leave it in the fridge so it’s ready for a quick breakfast in the morning.
Makes approximately 20 fritters
350 g (12 oz) pumpkin, peeled, seeded and cut into cubes (from a 1 kg/2 lb 3 oz
pumpkin or butternut squash)
100 g (3½ oz/¾ cup) gluten-free flour
2 eggs
2 tablespoons caster (superfine) sugar
1 heaped teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon ground cinnamon
pinch of salt, plus extra to serve (optional) seed oil, for greasing
icing (confectioner’s) sugar and mixed spice, or salt, to serve (optional)
Preheat the oven to 200°C (400°F/Gas 6). Put the pumpkin on a baking tray and
cover with foil. Bake for 30–40 minutes until softened. Remove the foil and
allow to cool. Put into a food processor with the remaining ingredients (except
the seed oil and icing sugar mix) and blend until you have a thick batter.
Heat a large non-stick frying pan wiped with a little seed oil using a piece of
kitchen paper. Dro level tablespoons of the mixture into the pan and fry for a few
minutes until golden brown. The fritters will be around 7 cm (2¾ in) wide and
you can cook three or four at a time. Turn them over gently when browned and
fry the other side. Remove and place on kitchen paper. Scatter over the icing
sugar mix for a Christmassy feel, or some salt. Eat when just cool enough to
touch.
TORTA DI CAFFÈ, CIOCCOLATO E NOCI
COFFEE, CHOCOLATE & WALNUT CAKE
We have come across hundreds of recipes in our research that use up

breadcrumbs. In fact, I might just write 1,000 recipes for breadcrumbs one
day! However, I hadn’t seen them used in cakes before. What a good idea!
This recipe is based on one from Pina, the mother of Gregorio, the Sicilian
head chef of our restaurant in Bray. It isn’t suitable for hard, dry bread,
more the slightly past-their-best soft white or brown interiors of a crusty
loaf. To make the breadcrumbs, simply whizz in a food processor. The
original recipe uses only walnuts, but we were inspired by the dark, grainy
chocolate of Modica and the shot of espresso that rounds off every meal in
Italy.
Serves 8–10
200 g (7 oz/2 cups) walnuts

50 g (2 oz/generous ¾ cup) fresh breadcrumbs from a wheat or gluten-free loaf
2 teaspoons baking powder
8 heaped teaspoons finely ground coffee
100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) chocolate or carob chips
100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) softened salted butter, plus extra for greasing
125 g (4 oz/generous ½ cup) light brown muscovado sugar
4 eggs
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3) and generously grease a 24 cm (9½ in)
(or similar size) loose-bottomed round cake tin with butter. Toast the walnuts on
a baking tray in the oven for around 8 minutes or until they deepen in colour.
Grind the walnuts in a food processor or chop by hand to a fine breadcrumb
texture.
Mix together the walnuts, breadcrumbs, baking powder, coffee and chocolate
chips in a bowl and set aside. Whisk together the butter and sugar until light and
fluffy – this should take around 5 minutes. Add the eggs one by one and keep
whisking. Next, use a spatula to fold the walnut mixture into the wet ingredients
until combined. Pour into the cake tin and bake for 35 minutes. Test for
doneness: if a skewer or toothpick inserted into the cake comes out clean, the
cake is ready. Remove from the oven and leave to cool in the tin before turning
out onto a plate.
TORTA DI RICOTTA
RICOTTA CAKE
This triumphant cake is based on the colourful iced cassata cakes you see all
over Sicily, only it is a much lighter version that is not difficult to make.
There is an expression in Sicilian dialect, ‘You are as beautiful as a cassata’
– how romantic to be likened to a cake! If you can find potato flour, do use
it as it will make the sponge lighter; if not, use cornflour. You can find
potato flour in Asian shops or Italian delis. If you can get hold of sheep’s
ricotta all the better, for these cakes are traditionally made with ewe’s milk,
which has a pleasant, tangy taste.
Serves 8
For the sponge

5 eggs, separated
pinch of salt
150 g (5 oz/generous ⅔ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
75 g (2½ oz/½ cup) potato flour or cornflour
75 g (2½ oz/scant ⅔ cup) ‘00’ flour, plus extra for dusting
For the syrup
75 ml (2½ fl oz/⅓ cup) marsala
25 ml (1 fl oz) water
For the filling
750 g (1 lb 10 oz/3 cups) ricotta
150 g (5 oz/generous ⅔ cup) caster (superfine) sugar
1 teaspoon finely grated orange zest
6 tablespoons marsala
25 g (1 oz/2 tablespoons) dark (bittersweet) chocolate (minimum 70% cocoa
solids), broken into pieces
For the coating
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) whipping cream
1 tablespoon runny honey or caster (superfine) sugar, to taste
200 g (7 oz) toasted flaked almonds or hazelnuts or pistachios
25 g (1 oz/scant ¼ cup) coarsely grated dark (bittersweet) chocolate
25 g (1 oz/scant ¼ cup) icing (confectioner’s) sugar
butter, for greasing
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3) and grease and flour a 23 cm (9 in)
cake tin. Whip the egg whites to soft peaks in a spotlessly clean bowl with a
pinch of salt. Slowly pour in 100 g (3½ oz/scant ½ cup) of the sugar while
whisking. Mix the yolks with the remaining sugar in another bowl until pale and
creamy, then use a spatula to fold the two together. Sift in the two flours, add the
lemon zest and fold them in. Pour into the prepared tin and cook for 30–35
minutes, until a skewer comes out clean when inserted into the centre. When
cooked, remove from the tin and allow to cool on a rack. Meanwhile, make the
filling by draining the ricotta and mixing the ingredients, except for the
chocolate, together in a bowl.
Carefully cut a 1 cm (½ in) thick disc from the top of the cake and set aside.
Next cut a 2 cm (¾ in) disc, leaving you with a final one of 1 cm (½ in). Lay one
of the shallower discs back in the tin with the outside surface downwards. Next
cut a circle from the thicker disc so that you are left with a ring of around 1 cm
(½ in) – this will make the border around the hole for the filling. Place it into the
tin and eat the centre as a cook’s treat! Mix together the ingredients for the syrup
and brush two-thirds over the sponge.
Fill the hole with the ricotta filling mixture. Melt the chocolate briefly in a
microwave or in a bowl over a saucepan of boiling water. Spread the melted
chocolate over the final disc of sponge with a palette knife. Invert this over the
cake and press down lightly. Brush on the remaining syrup. Leave the cake to
rest in the fridge for at least 6 hours and up to a day. Turn out of the mould.
Whip the cream to form soft peaks and fold into the ricotta and honey or
sugar. Use a palette knife to spread this evenly over the cake. Finish the coating
with a sprinkling of nuts, grated chocolate and icing sugar. Chill in the fridge for
a minimum of 1 hour or up to a day before serving.
GELA DI ANGURIA
WATERMELON JELLIES
In the height of summer the watermelons are incredible, strongly flavoured

and naturally sweet, so only make this when you have good ingredients.
This is a delicate and light dessert which dates back to the time of the
island’s Arab conquerors. It is traditionally decorated with nuts, chopped
chocolate and fragrant white jasmine flowers.
Makes 4 small tea glasses
30 g (1 oz/¼ cup) cornflour

500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) watermelon juice, passed through a sieve (about 1
small ripe watermelon)
25 g (1 oz/scant 2 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar
1–2 tablespoons rosewater, to taste (optional)
chopped pistachios, coarsely grated chocolate and jasmine flowers, to serve
Mix the cornflour together with a little of the watermelon juice in a bowl – if it
becomes lumpy simply push it through a fine sieve with a spoon. Add this to the
rest of the juice, with the cinnamon, sugar and rosewater (if using) in a saucepan
and place over a gentle heat. Stir continuously and cook until thickened, then
pour into glasses and chill until set. Serve with a sprinkling of pistachios,
chocolate and jasmine flowers.
PASSAVOLANTI
ALMOND & HONEY BISCUITS
Above: clockwise from top left: Climentine & Almond Slice; Almond & Honey Biscuits,
and, Soft Almond Biscuits
These crunchy almond biscuits are from a village called Ciminna near
Palermo and the recipe has been given to us by Zia Vitalba, the aunt of our
friend Marco. Marco told me that foods in Sicily are either salty or sugary,
as large amounts of both were used as a preservative. I have replaced the
sugar in these biscuits with a small amount of honey as we found them
impossibly sweet as they were.
Makes 15 biscuits
250 g (9 oz/1⅔ cups) unblanched almonds

2 egg whites
2 tablespoons runny honey
parchment. First, roughly chop the almonds to a gravelly texture using a food
processor or knife. Whip the egg whites in a spotlessy clean bowl to stiff peaks
with an electric whisk, adding the honey a little at a time. Fold in the almonds
and cinnamon to produce a thick paste.
Use your hands to form 15 little round patties around 5 cm (2 in) wide and 1.5
cm (⅝ in) thick. Place on the prepared tray, spacing them with a gap of around 5
cm (2 in) between each one. Bake in the oven for 15 minutes or until they are set
and lightly browned.
MARMELLATA DI MANDARINI
CLEMENTINE MARMALADE
We loved this bright orange, bittersweet marmalade for breakfast on

yoghurt when we were in Sicily. It is equally at home spooned over the
Marsala Semifreddo, over ricotta or mascarpone, in the Clementine and
Almond Slice or just on toast. The perfume of bubbling clementines fills the
house as you make it.
This will be a loose-set marmalade and fairly low in sugar compared to
traditional varieties. There isn’t enough sugar to enable the jars to be kept
safely out of the fridge, but since we’re only making a small batch it doesn’t
take up too much room.
Use 3 Ways
On whipped
ricotta, in the
Clementine &
Almond Slice,
in the Sticky
Finger
Makes approximately 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz)
1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) clementines
juice of 2 lemons
1 litre (34 fl oz/4¼ cups) water
400 g (14 oz/2 cups) granulated sugar
Remove the stalks and hard knobbly bits at the top of the clementines and cut in
half, keeping the skin on. Now roughly chop into smaller pieces by hand or in a
food processor. The pieces should be no bigger than 1 cm (½ in) cubes. Put them
into a large heavy-based saucepan with the lemon juice and water and bring to
the boil. Turn the heat down to a simmer and allow the mixture to bubble away
slowly for 1 hour. By this time the skins should have softened so that you can
squash them easily with a spoon against the side of the pan and the marmalade
will have thickened to a soft, runny set.
Next add the sugar and stir through. Bring to a rapid boil for around 5 minutes
or until the sugar has dissolved. Pour into clean, warm jars (I do this by rinsing
them out with hot water from the kettle) and screw on the lids. Allow the jars to
cool and keep in the fridge for up to 1 month.
TORTA DI FICHI ALLE MANDORLE E ARANCIA CON MARSALA
FIG ALMOND & ORANGE CAKE WITH MARSALA

This is a nutty, dense cake packed with flavour and texture from the figs
and two kinds of almonds. It works perfectly at the end of a meal with a
spoonful of marscarpone and glass of dessert wine, such as the apricot-
flavoured wine from Pantelleria, or with coffee in the morning, or the
Vanilla Ice Cream. Figs grow wild all over the island and are dried to last
through winter. Try to find dried figs that are still soft and flexible; if you
can’t, soak them in warm water for 30 minutes before using. Oranges of
various types are available most of the year in Sicily but the most popular,
the blood orange Tarocco, is only available in the winter months.
Serves 10–12
150 g (5 oz/scant 1 cup) whole almonds (blanched or unblanched)

250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) soft dried figs
150 g (5 oz/scant ⅔ cup) softened salted butter
100 g (3½ oz/scant ⅔ cup) brown muscovado or caster (superfine) sugar
3 eggs, separated
200 g (7 oz/2¼ cups) ground almonds
finely grated zest of 1 small orange
1 teaspoon vanilla extract
1 teaspoon baking powder
4 tablespoons Marsala, brandy or orange juice
mascarpone, to serve (optional)
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3). Cut a circle of baking parchment
measuring 34 cm (13 in) across and loosely push it into the sides a 23 cm (9 in)
tart tin to line it.
Toast the whole almonds for 10-12 minutes or until the skins start to split in
the oven. Remove and allow to cool. Chop by hand or put into a food processor
and blitz until you have a rough, sandy texture. Set aside and then do the same
with the figs.
Beat the butter and sugar together with an electric whisk until pale and fluffy.
Add the egg yolks, one at a time, and beat in. Add the figs, both kinds of
almonds, orange zest, vanilla extract and baking powder and fold in using a large
spatula or metal spoon. Whip the egg whites to stiff peaks. Use a quarter of this
to loosen the sticky almond and fig mixture by folding it in with a large metal
spoon. Then gently fold in the rest of the egg whites. Pour into the prepared tin
and level the top with a palette knife.
Place the tin in the middle of the oven and bake for about 35–40 minutes or
until a skewer inserted into the centre of the cake comes out clean. Remove from
the oven and allow to cool in the tin. When the cake is at room temperature
pierce it all over with a skewer and evenly pour over the Marsala to soak it. As
the edges of the baking parchment will have browned in the oven I often serve it
from the lining paper on a large wooden board with a bowl of mascarpone for a
rustic look.
BIANCOMANGIARE
ALMOND MILK PUDDINGS
If you are making your own Almond Milk for this, it is a good idea to strain
it through a fine sieve before using, unless you are happy with the slightly
grainy texture. I like it this way; Giancarlo likes it smooth! Homemade
almond milk has a gentle flavour which is perfectly lovely as it is. If you like
more punch in your desserts, think about adding a few tablespoons of
amaretto or rosewater to the mixture before it sets. You will need to do this
if you are using cow's milk. Do try these with shot glasses of Raspberry
Granita and enjoy the flavours of summer and the contrasting textures.
Serves 6
40 g (1½ oz/⅓ cup) cornflour

500 ml (17 fl oz/2¼ cups) whole milk or almond milk
1 strip of lemon zest from the length of an unwaxed lemon, plus extra to
decorate (optional)
40 g (1½ oz/3 tablespoons) caster (superfine) sugar
3 tablespoons amaretto liqueur or 1–2 tablespoons rosewater, to taste (optional)
3 amaretti biscuits, crushed, or 100 g (3½ oz/⅔ cup) pine nuts or edible flowers,
to decorate (optional)
Mix the cornflour with a little of the milk in a small bowl. Place the lemon zest
with the rest of the milk and the sugar in a saucepan to heat, just until the sugar
dissolves. Add the liqueur or rosewater now, if using. Add the cornflour mixture
and whisk through to avoid any lumps. When the mixture begins to thicken, pour
it into heatproof glasses or moulds and let it set in the fridge for 2 hours or
overnight.
Serve in the glasses for ease, or remove by running a knife around the edges
of the moulds. Then dip them briefly into very hot water to loosen them. Turn
out onto plates and serve, decorated if you like with pine nuts, crushed amaretti
biscuits, lemon zest or edible flowers.
CUCCIA
FARRO & RICOTTA CREAMS
This ancient recipe is still very popular, especially around the time of the
festival of Santa Lucia, patroness of Syracuse, which takes place on 13
December. Wheat berries are soaked and cooked until tender and mixed
with creamy ricotta. You can find precooked wheat known as grano cotto in
Italian delis but otherwise the grain farro or, for the gluten-free, brown rice
are good substitutes.
Serves 8
200 g (7 oz) wheat berries, farro or brown rice

600 g (1 lb 5 oz/2½ cups) ricotta
100 ml (3½ fl oz/scant ½ cup) whole milk
2 teaspoons ground cinnamon
15 g (½ oz/1 tablespoon) candied orange, very finely diced and a little more
finely cut into shards
2–4 tablespoons runny honey or caster (superfine) sugar, to taste
4 tablespoons dark (bittersweet) chocolate shavings, to decorate
Soak the berries, farro or brown rice in cold water overnight. Discard the
soaking water and then cook the grain of your choice in plenty of fresh boiling
water until very tender and swollen. Drain and allow to cool. Meanwhile, if the
ricotta is very dry, whip together with the milk to loosen it and then mix in the
cooled grain, cinnamon and candied orange, and add honey or sugar to taste.
Serve in bowls or glasses, decorated with a sprinkling of chocolate shavings and
a few shards of candied orange.
COTOGNATA
QUINCE PASTE
If you look around antiques markets in Sicily, you will see rough moulds
made from clay which were used to make cotognata, quince cheese or paste.
They had designs and initials on them to decorate the finished cheese. Sweet
quince with mature pecorino and the Almond & Pecorino Biscuits is a
lovely way to finish a meal.
Serves 12–14
3 large quinces
5 litres (170 fl oz/21 cups) water
800 g (1 lb 12 oz/3½ cups) caster (superfine) sugar
Peel, core and chop the quinces into roughly 4 cm (1½ in) cubes. Put them into a
large saucepan and cover with the water. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat.
Continue to cook until the quinces become soft, around 45 minutes. To achieve a
deep pink colour to the finished paste, allow the quinces to stand in the water
overnight.
Drain and purée the quince flesh with a blender and then pass through a sieve.
For every kilo (2 lb 3 oz) of purée you will need to add 800 g (1 lb 12 oz/3½
cups) sugar. Put the sugar and quince purée together in a large saucepan and stir
frequently over a low heat until the sugar dissolves and the mixture has reduced
to a thick paste. This could take up to 1 hour. If a skin forms over the surface,
discard this. The mixture is ready when a spoon drawn across the top leaves a
trail.
Pour the mixture into a lined small loaf tin and leave at room temperature
overnight. The following day turn out of the loaf tin and eat straight away, or
keep the paste in an airtight tin for up to a month.
BISCOTTI DI MANDORLE E PECORINO
ALMOND & PECORINO BISCUITS

This is a good time to use the almond meal left over from making Almond
Milk. However, if you do then add a little more butter to the mix as almond
meal is a lot drier than shop-bought ground almonds. These biscuits are
perfect with the Quince Paste and a pecorino cheese. They are good, too,
spread with peanut butter for a healthy snack. And they travel well, so pack
them up for the kids to take to school.
Serves 8–10 (makes approximately 25 biscuits)
200 g (7 oz/2 cups) ground almonds

50 g (2 oz) pecorino or Parmesan, grated
½ teaspoon baking powder
1 teaspoon salt
40 g (1½ oz/⅓ stick) unsalted butter, at room temperature
6 tablespoons water
flavouring such as fennel or sesame seeds, rosemary, oregano or chilli flakes
(optional)
Preheat the oven to 170°C (325°F/Gas 3). Using your fingers mix together the
almonds, cheese, baking powder, salt, butter and water to form a dough. Spread
out a sheet of baking parchment and roll out the dough under another sheet of
parchment to around 5 mm (¼ in). Peel off the top sheet, scatter over the
flavouring of your choice, if using, and put the top sheet back in place. (I like to
scatter one area with dark sesame seeds or black onion seeds, another with
fennel seeds and another with pale sesame so that you can cut long biscuits that
fade from one colour to another.) Roll into the dough with the rolling pin.
Slide the parchment onto a baking tray and put into the oven to bake for 15–
20 minutes or until firm to the touch. Remove from the oven and cut into shapes
with a sharp knife, then cool on a rack. The biscuits will keep for a couple of
weeks in an airtight container.
COCKTAILS
TOASTED ALMOND
We enjoyed this ice-cold, creamy cocktail after dinner at the Grand Hotel
Villa Igiea in Palermo. We were told by the cocktail maker that it was an
international cocktail, but it seemed to fit Sicily so well with lovely almond
flavour. Here is our version.
Makes 1
50 ml (2 fl oz) di Saronno Amaretto

50 ml (2 fl oz) Baileys or Kahlua
50 ml (2 fl oz) double cream
Fill a cocktail shaker hall full with ice. Pour the ingredients into the shaker and
shake well. Strain over a few rocks into an Old Fashioned glass or tumbler and
serve with an Almond & Honey Biscuit.
DUILIO
We had great fun watching the talented Alfio at the Belmond Grand Hotel
Timeo prepare cocktails for us. This was one of Giancarlo’s favourites as he
loves Scotch.
Makes 1
25 ml (1 fl oz) Scotch whisky

15 ml (½ fl oz) Frangelico
10 ml (¼ fl oz) creme de cacao
dash Monin Caramel Syrup
Shake the ingredients over ice in a cocktail shaker. Serve in a cocktail glass.
COCKTAILS
STICKY FINGER
This refreshing cocktail (see photo opposite) is quick and easy to put
together and wonderful throughout the year. Alfio from the Belmond
Grand Hotel Timeo serves it with a simple mint sprig. I like to use the
Clementine Marmalade, but store-bought orange marmalade is fine.
Makes 1
1 teaspoon Clementine Marmalade

15 ml (½ fl oz) fresh lemon juice
25 ml (1 fl oz) gin
50 ml (2 fl oz) Champagne
To serve
mint sprig
orange and lemon slices (optional)
Put the marmalade, lemon juice and gin into a cocktail shaker and shake to
combine. Pour into a red wine glass and top with the champagne. Garnish with a
mint sprig and/or orange and lemon and serve.
THE NATALIA
I love the bittersweet flavours of the Sicilian liqueur Averna. One summery
evening between our restaurant manager Luca, friend Natalia and ourselves
we tried various combinations of Averna with the typical citrus flavours
from Sicily (all in the name of research, of course). This was the winning
combination and it has become one of our favourite summer drinks.
Makes 1
25 ml (1 fl oz) Averna
25 ml (1 fl oz) Grand Marnier
15 ml (½ fl oz) lemon juice
1 length of orange peel
1 sprig of mint
Shake the ingredients together over ice in a cocktail shaker. Strain and serve in
an Old Fashioned glass with a twist of orange peel, the sprig of mint and a few
ice cubes.
Variation: To add a dash of sparkle, divide the Natalia between two white wine
glasses and top with Prosecco or Champagne.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS
Thank you to …
Marco Piraino for his incredible knowledge of Sicilian food, his impressive
skills (especially at making cassata), his patience and time spent with us. You
are a Sicilian star!
Karen Courtney, who accompanied me on a last-minute research visit to

Palermo. I had a blast, learnt loads and completely fell for Sicily.
Sheila and Roger Brocklehurst who researched the history of Sicily (no easy
task), and put together the fascinating foodie timeline.
Mimmo Zito, you are an inspiration. You made me fall for Sicily and see what
true Sicilian food is about. Everyone should have the experience of eating at the
fabulous Osteria Bacchus.
Paul Stratton, the Italian Specialist, for finding the best foodie places and people
to visit in Sicily. Prestige Holidays for organising such great trips for us and
finding brilliant places to stay.
Anne Hudson, who patiently tested recipes with me and shared her knowledge.
Steve Adams for his delicious ice-cream making skills.
Gregorio Piazza, our wonderful Sicilian Head Chef at Caldesi in Campagna.
Stefano Borella for retesting those recipes so many times.
Gino Borella for the knowledge you have passed onto us.
Caterina Valentino and her team at Hotel Palladio,
Giardini Naxos for all your help and recipes.
Ada and her team at the stunning Monaci delle Terre Nere on the slopes of Etna.
Stefano Gegnacorsi, General Manager of the incredible Belmond Grand Hotel
Timeo for all your help.
Giuseppe Mazzarella and Cetti Ferrante for sharing his knowledge and research
with me on Sicilian food.
Louise Ford and friends in New Jersey for their help in sourcing Sicilian recipes
that travelled Brian McLeod for his Sicilian research.
Matteo Berghella and Luca Cappannari for their patient help on the cocktails.
And at Hardie Grant….

Thank you to Kate Pollard for sending us on another amazing journey, this time
to discover the incredible island of Sicily. You have created another beautiful
book and we will treasure it. Kajal Mistry and Hannah Roberts, thank you for
bringing it all together.
Claire Warner, thank you for our stunning design. Johanna Noack, thank you for
the inspired and wonderful illustrations. Helen Cathcart, we love you and your
photography – we think this is the best ever!
Thank you to our literary agent Sheila Abelman for looking after us (and the
citrus salad!).
Things to do in Palermo
Really interesting street food tours by Palermo Street Food
www.palermostreetfood.com
Fun and informative cooking courses and market tours by Vincenzo at
Ristorante Cin Cin www.ristorantecincin.com
Go to Ballaro and Capo markets for a fascinating, bustling view of Sicily’s

capital city.
See the amazing gold Palatine Chapel at the Royal Palace.
Visit a whole shop devoted to marzipan, I Peccatucci di Mamma Andrea.

www.mammaandrea.it
Take a tour with Valentina Cusimano.

email: valecusi@msn.com
Tel: +39 3284429515
Eat at the weird and amusing Fud.

www.fud.it.
Or enjoy a bustling lunch with the locals at Ferro di Cavallo

www.ferrodicavallopalermo.it
Or discover the tiny and lovely Osteria Dei Vespri.

www.osteriadeivespri.it
And if you are in Bagheria go to Trattoria Don Ciccio.

www.trattoriadonciccio.it
Holidays & Hotels in Sicily we would recommend
Paul Stratton, The Italian Specialist.

www.theitalianspecialist.com
Prestige Holidays
www.prestigeholidays.co.uk
Monaci delle Terre Nere on the slopes of Etna.

www.monacidelleterrenere.it
Belmond Grand Hotel Timeo, Taormina.

www.belmond.com/grand-hotel-timeo-taormina
Hotel Principe Di Villafranca, Palermo.

www.principedivillafranca.it
Azienda Agricola Mandranova, Agrigento

www.mandranova.com
Hotel Palazzo Failla, Modica.

www.palazzofailla.it
La Dimora Hotel, Ragusa.

www.dimorapiazzacarmine.com
Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel, Ortigia.

www.algila.it
Hotel Palladio, Giardini Naxos.

www.hotelpalladiogiardini.com
Restaurants
Mimmo and Francesco Zito at Osteria Bacchus – everyone should eat there. Find
them at Sant’Ambrogio just outside Cefalu.
www.facebook.com/Osteria
Bacchus-800844259949950
Tel: +39 320 144 9452
Taverna Nicastro, Modica, traditional Sicilian food made with love.

Tel: +39 0932 945884
Sakalleo in Scoglitti for fish, and really good food.

Tel: +39 0932 871688
Apollonion in Ortigia for great fish and local specialities.

Tel: +39 0931 483362
Enoteca Rossorubino is in Cefalu and has great wines and antipasti. It is owned
by two lovely brothers.
Tel: +39 0921 423340
Pocho for the real couscous at S.Vito Lo Capo.

www.hotel-pocho.it
La Grotta – a wonderful restaurant owned by father and son in a cave in Scicli.

www.lagrottascicli.it
Bibliography
Cucinare alla Siciliana by Carmelo Sammarco, Arnone, 1998
Flavours of Sicily, The by Anna Tasca Lanza, Clarkson Potter, 1996
Food of Italy, The by Claudia Roden, VIntage, 1998
La Cucina Siciliana by Maria Teresa di Marco and Marie Cecile Ferre, Guido
Tommasi Editore, 2010
Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb, Vintage Classics, 2015
Oxford Companion to Italian Food, The by Gillian Riley, Oxford, 2009
Sicilia by Elisia Menduni, Mondadori Electa, 2014
Sicilian Food by Mary Taylor-Simeti, Grub Street, 2009
Sicily by John Julius Norwich, John Murray, 2016
Sicily, Lonely Planet, 2014
Sicily, Insight Guides, 2016
Spring in Sicily by Manuela Darling-Gansser, Hardie Grant, 2012
ABOUT THE AUTHORS
Owners of London’s Caffé Caldesi, Caldesi in Campagna in Bray, and the
Marylebone La Cucina Caldesi cooking school, Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi
have a passion for Italian food. They have spent over 16 years teaching students
at every level, and have written nine cookbooks. Katie and Giancarlo have two
children, Giorgio and Flavio.
INDEX
Page numbers in italics indicate illustrations separated from their recipe
agnolotti: sunset agnolotti stuffed with sea bass 1
almonds 1
almond & honey biscuits 1
almond & pecorino biscuits 1
almond granita 1
almond milk 1
almond milk puddings 1
carob biscuits 1
citrus couscous salad from
Mandranova 1
clementine & almond slice 1
marsala semifreddo with caramelised nuts & red wine reduction 1
marzipan 1
pesto from Trapani 1
pistachio, almond & orange cake with saffron or rosewater syrup 1
purple sprouting broccoli with spicy almond crunch 1
ricotta cake 1
soft almond biscuits 1
sweet & sour aubergines with toasted almonds 1
anchovies
anchovy, bean, celery & caper salad 1
baked cheese with anchovies & lemon zest 1
cauliflower in red wine 1
quick ricotta sfincione 1
Romanesco with pasta 1
round sandwiches 1–2, 3
sfincione sauce 1
Sicilian pizza 1
spaghetti with anchovies, capers & cherry tomatoes 1
antipasti 1
artichoke, broad bean & herb casserole 1
baked aubergine with tomato sauce & mozzarella 1
naked wild chard pie with goat’s cheese 1
raw sea bass with a mint & lemon dressing 1
Romano peppers stuffed with pork mince & herbs 1
sardine patties 1
sun-dried tomato & chilli relish 1
sweet & sour aubergines 1
apples
chickpea & apple soup 1, 2
roast pork with apples & rosemary 1
arancine 1, 2
mini crab arancine 1
spinach & mozzarella arancine 1
aubergines
breaded veal cutlets or aubergines Palermo style 1
griddled mackerel with caponata 1
pasta with aubergine & tomatoes 1
scacce 1–2
Averna: Natalia 1
Bailey’s: Toasted Almond 1
basil
orange & basil risotto 1
ricotta with basil 1
beef
arancine 1
beef & onions 1
meatballs in broth 1
quick beef ragu 1
rolled stuffed roast beef 1
slow-cooked pork, beef & sausage ragu 1
biscuits
almond & honey biscuits 1
almond & pecorino biscuits 1
carob biscuits 1
soft almond biscuits 1
bread
gluten-free focaccia 1
Sicilian focaccia with sesame seeds 1
broad beans
broad bean & fennel seed soup 1
broad bean salad with lemon & feta 1
broccoli: purple sprouting broccoli with spicy almond crunch 1
cakes
coffee, chocolate & walnut cake 1
ricotta cake 1
cannellini beans: anchovy, bean, celery & caper salad 1
capers
swordfish with tomatoes, capers & olives 1
caponata
carob biscuits 1
carrots
quick beef ragu 1
quinoa & lamb couscous style 1
tomato & rice soup 1
casseroles
cauliflower
celery
quick beef ragu 1
a soup of two halves 1
Champagne: Sticky Finger 1
chard: naked wild chard pie with goat’s cheese 1
chestnut flour: gluten-free focaccia 1
chicken parmigiana 1
chickpea flour: chickpea fritters 1
chickpeas: chickpea & apple soup 1, 2
chilli flakes
chips: Sicilian chips 1
chocolate
chocolate & cinnamon ice cream 1
farro & ricotta creams 1
ricotta cake 1
clementines
clementine ice cream 1
clementine marmalade 1
cocktails
Duilio 1
The Natalia 1
Sticky Finger 1
Toasted Almond 1
coffee
coffee granita 1
contorni 1
citrus couscous salad from Mandranova 1
courgette ribbons in lemon & oregano dressing 1
lemon & orange salad 1
melon, orange & walnut salad 1
orange & fennel salad 1
roast peppers Palermo style 1
Sicilian chips 1
sweet & sour pumpkin 1
courgettes
tuna steaks in a quinoa crust on courgettes 1
couscous 1
fish & shellfish couscous 1
crab: mini crab arancine 1
cream
the ice-cream base 1
dates: carob biscuits 1
desserts see also granitas; ice cream almond milk puddings 1
pumpkin fritters 1
quinces alla Anna 1
watermelon jellies 1
di Saronno Amaretto: Toasted Almond 1
dressings
Duilio 1
eggs
fennel
sardine & wild fennel sauce 1
sausage & wild fennel ragu 1
fennel seeds
chickpea fritters 1
feta cheese
fish 1
fish sauce 1
focaccia
Sicilian focaccia with sesame seeds 1, 2
Frangelico: Duilio 1
fritters
chickpea fritters 1
pumpkin fritters 1
garlic: sautéed mussels in garlic & white wine 1
gin: Sticky Finger 1
gluten-free fresh pasta 1
goat's cheese: naked wild chard pie with goat’s cheese 1
grana padano
rice timbale 1
Grand Marnier: Natalia 1
granitas 1
almond granita 1
coffee granita 1
raspberry granita 1
gremolata: rack of lamb with citrus gremolata 1
halloumi cheese: baked cheese with anchovies & lemon zest 1
ham
arancine 1
herbs
honey: almond & honey biscuits 1
ice cream 1
chocolate & cinnamon 1
clementine 1
rose 1
saffron 1
vanilla 1
jam: quince paste 1
jellies: watermelon jellies 1
lamb
rack of lamb with citrus gremolata 1
leeks
lemons
quinces alla Anna 1
ravioli stuffed with ricotta & lemon 1
swordfish with salmoriglio sauce 1
mackerel: griddled mackerel with caponata 1
marmalade
clementine marmalade 1
marsala
ricotta cake 1
marzipan 1
milk
almond milk 1
almond milk puddings 1
mint: raw sea bass with a mint & lemon dressing 1
mozzarella cheese
arancine 1
cherry tomato risotto 1
rice timbale 1
scacce 1–2
mussels: sautéed mussels in garlic & white wine 1
Natalia 1
olive oil, vanilla 1
olives
Sicilian chips 1
onions
beef & onions 1
drunken tuna with sweet & sour onions 1
sea bass baked in a parcel with sfincione sauce 1
sfincione sauce 1
Sicilian chips 1
Sicilian pizza 1
oranges
quinces alla Anna 1
salmon baked with oranges & thyme 1
oregano: courgette ribbons in lemon & oregano dressing 1
Parmesan cheese
pasta 1
cherry tomato sauce 1
fish sauce 1
fresh pasta 1
gluten-free fresh pasta 1
long pasta 1
pistachio pesto 1
quick beef ragu 1
sunset agnolotti stuffed with sea bass 1
pastries
scacce 1–2
patties: sardine patties 1
peas: artichoke, broad bean & herb casserole 1
pecorino: almond & pecorino biscuits 1
peppers
pesto
pistachio pesto 1
pies: naked wild chard pie with goat’s cheese 1
pine nuts
sardine patties 1
stuffed sardines with spinach, pine nuts & raisins 1
pistachios
pistachio pesto 1
pizza: Sicilian pizza 1
pork 1
potatoes
Sicilian chips 1
prawns: fish sauce 1
pumpkin
pumpkin fritters 1
sweet & sour pumpkin 1
quinces
quince paste 1
quinces alla Anna 1
quinoa
ragu
quick beef ragu 1
raisins
raspberry granita 1
relish: sun-dried tomato & chilli relish 1
rice 1
arancine 1
mini crab arancine 1
rice timbale 1
ricotta cheese
oven-baked ricotta with onions & rosemary 1
ricotta cake 1
ricotta with basil 1
scacce 1–2
risottos
rosemary
oven-baked ricotta with onions & rosemary 1
rosewater
rose ice cream 1
saffron see also arancine
saffron ice cream 1
salads
salmon baked with oranges & thyme 1
salmoriglio dressing
sandwiches: round sandwiches 1–2, 3
sardines
sardine patties 1
sauces
fish sauce 1
sausages
scacce 1–2
sea bass
sunset agnolotti stuffed with sea bass 1
semifreddo: marsala semifreddo
with caramelised nuts & red wine reduction 1
sesame seeds
Sicilian focaccia with sesame seeds 1, 2
sfincione sauce
Sicilian pizza 1
shellfish 1
fish sauce 1
smoked cheese: scacce 1–2
soup 1
sourdough bread: quick ricotta sfincione 1
spinach
rice timbale 1
sweet & sour pumpkin, contorni 1
Swiss chard: rack of lamb with citrus gremolata 1
swordfish
thyme: salmon baked with oranges & thyme 1
timbales: rice timbale 1
tomatoes
fish sauce 1
scacce 1–2
sfincione sauce 1
Sicilian chips 1
Sicilian pizza 1
tuna
vanilla ice cream 1
vanilla olive oil 1
veal: breaded veal cutlets or aubergines Palermo style 1
vegetables
fish sauce 1
walnuts
whisky: Duilio 1
wine
sautéed mussels in garlic & white wine 1
Sicily by Katie & Giancarlo Caldesi
First published in 2016 by Hardie Grant Books
Hardie Grant Books (UK)

52–54 Southwark Street
London SE1 1UN
hardiegrant.co.uk
Hardie Grant Books (Australia)

Ground Floor, Building 1
658 Church Street
Melbourne, VIC 3121
hardiegrant.com.au
The moral rights of Katie and Giancarlo Caldesi to be identified as the authors of this
work have been asserted by them in accordance with the Copyright, Designs and Patents
Act 1988.
Text © Katie & Giancarlo Caldesi

Photography © Helen Cathcart
All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced, stored in a retrieval
system or transmitted in any form by any means, electronic, electrostatic, magnetic tape,
mechanical, photocopying, recording or otherwise, without the prior written permission
of the Publisher.
British Library Cataloguing-in-Publication Data. A catalogue record for this book is

available from the British Library.
eISBN: 978-1-74358-445-3
Publisher: Kate Pollard

Senior Editor: Kajal Mistry
Editorial Assistant: Hannah Roberts
Design: Claire Warner Studio
Illustrator: Johanna Noack
Photographer: Helen Cathcart
Food Assistant: Kathy Kordalis
Prop Stylist: Linda Berlin
Copy Editor: Lorraine Jerram
Proofreader: Laura Nickoll
Indexer: Cathy Heath
Colour Reproduction by p2d

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OTHER BOOKS BY KATIE & GIANCARLO CALDESI:

The Amalfi Coast: A Collection of Italian Recipes

– All olive oil used in this book is extra-virgin olive oil.

– Raw or lightly cooked eggs should be avoided by pregnant

– Recipes that contain nuts should be avoided by those with

PALERMO & ITS STREET FOOD

WHO BROUGHT WHAT, AND WHEN?

‘Fry shops’, or friggitorie, sell panelle – chickpea fritters – as well as hot

Makes approximately 10 arancine 7 cm (2¾ in) wide

500 g (1 lb 2 oz/2¼ cups) Arborio rice salt

SPINACH & MOZZARELLA ARANCINE

Makes 30 walnut-sized arancine

2 tablespoons extra-virgin olive oil

OVEN-BAKED RICOTTA WITH ONIONS & ROSEMARY

Serves 4–6 as antipasti

250 g (9 oz/1 cup) ricotta

Sfincione is a squashy Sicilian deep pizza topped with a delicious oniony

For the dough

QUICK RICOTTA SFINCIONE

SICILIAN FOCACCIA WITH SESAME SEEDS

200 g (7 oz/1⅔ cups) gluten-free flour

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter

Makes approximately 35 patties

ARTICHOKE, BROAD BEAN & HERB CASSEROLE

Serves 4 as a main course or 6 as a starter

ROMANO PEPPERS STUFFED WITH PORK MINCE & HERBS

Serves 8 as a main course or 16 as antipasti

seed oil for frying

BAKED AUBERGINE WITH TOMATO SAUCE & MOZZARELLA

RICOTTA WITH BASIL

Makes 125 g (4 oz), enough for 8 medium crostini or 4 bowls of

100 g (3½ oz/⅓ cup) ricotta

1 teaspoon fennel seeds

NAKED WILD CHARD PIE WITH GOAT’S CHEESE

butter, for greasing

SWEET & SOUR AUBERGINES

This brightly coloured, almost jewel-like version of caponata was our

RAW SEA BASS WITH A MINT & LEMON DRESSING

BAKED CHEESE WITH ANCHOVIES & LEMON ZEST

2 anchovy fillets in oil, drained

BROAD BEAN & FENNEL SEED SOUP

CHICKPEA & APPLE SOUP

250 g (9 oz/1¼ cups) dried chickpeas

TOMATO & RICE SOUP

1 large onion, roughly chopped

A SOUP OF TWO HALVES

2 red or yellow (bell) peppers

Serves 4 (makes 25–30 balls around 3 cm/1¼ in wide)

For the stock

As necessity is the mother of invention, the poor, during Sicily’s centuries of

COURGETTE RIBBONS IN LEMON & OREGANO DRESSING

500 g (1 lb 2 oz) courgettes (zucchini) (around 4 medium)

CAULIFLOWER IN RED WINE

5 anchovy fillets in oil, drained

SWEET & SOUR AUBERGINES WITH TOASTED ALMONDS

ROAST PEPPERS PALERMO STYLE

These colourful sweet (bell) peppers are excellent as a side dish to

Inspired by our recent trips in search of Sicilian flavours, I found myself

1 kg (2 lb 3 oz) potatoes, peeled and cut into chips