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Crochet pattern

Seahorse
by @TOTAKSUSHA
Crochet Seahorse
by Kseniya Abdullina.

I am glad to present to you the pattern for my


toy. The size of the toy depends from the thread
that you will choose. This toy is about 15 and 13
cm in height. Wish you create a pretty toy!❤
Kindly remind you that the paid and free
distribution any materials of this pattern is
prohibited.
You may share and tag me @totaksusha when
you post your finished toy on Instagram or write
link for my shop.
Visit me on Instagram to stay up to date on all of
my sales, specials and more:
https://instagram.com/totaksusha
You can find more my handmade products at the
following link:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TotaKsushaDolls
This pattern includes text, photos and video lessons.
Lessons are private, based on YouTube channel. Open every
video only from the direct link.
Change quality settings on the video if necessary.
Please read all instructions for the best result.
Materials and tools.
◦ Two kind of threads, thin and 2 time thicker than
first. Or you can crochet the body and head in 2
threads, and all fins in one thread. I use 100%
cotton. Give you just example, you can use any
threads, that you prefer for the toys. I prefer use
russian marks of threads, also Turkish, Indian,
Italian.
For the pink seahorse used pink Alpina Lily 175
metres in 50 gr and pink Kirov Yarn Mills Rosa 300
metres in 50 gr, mint color of similar thickness
Pehorka Openwork Ajurnaya 280 metres in 50 gr.
For the blue seahorse used Vita Coco 240 metres in
50 gr, the yellow Vita Pelican 330 metres in 50 gr and
blue color of similar thickness Kirov Yarn Mills Iris
300 metres in 50 gr.
◦ Hook from 0.9 to 1 mm, choose the hook for
yourself. Crocheting should be very, very tight.
Materials and tools.

◦ Filler holofiber.
◦ Steel wire for the frame 1,5 mm for the body, 0,75 mm for the fins. Can use for the body thin wire in few
layers. I recommend only steel wire. Steel wire holds shape perfectly, and it is more durable.
◦ Adhesive tape made of cotton for winding the frame. It is very important material. Plaster fixes the wire
inside filler and helps to hold desired shape for the toy.
◦ Flat pliers and cutters for wire.
◦ Tweezers and wood sticks for stuffing.
◦ Cotter pins and washers or discs for fastening the head. You can choose one t-head (for example 15 * 1.6
mm) cotter pin or two o-head (20 * 1.6 mm or less). I usually pick cotter pins according to the size of the
toy.
◦ Needles for sewing some details.
Materials and tools.
◦ Dry pastel.
◦ Acrylic varnish.
◦ Brushes for painting different sizes.
◦ Glass black eyes with loop, 5 mm in diameter on
example. Durable threads or veins for the
fastening.
◦ Polymer clay Fimo Soft or Craft&Clay .
◦ Glue universal invisible, that not leave traces. I
recommend Moment Crystal by Henkel. Only for
the eyes. You can prefer another method and
don’t use glue.
◦ Black gel pen or liner.
IMPORTANT. Please, read whole pattern till the end
for choose your way making this toy.
Conventions and termins
◦ inc – increase
Please introduce with all termins. I use USA ◦ dec – decrease
terminology.
◦ sl st – slip stitch
Sometimes i will use in text full termins, sometimes
◦ half double crochet
abbreviations.
◦ double crochet
◦ Work in back loop only
◦ ch – chain
◦ Work in front loop only
◦ sc -single crochet
◦ dc – double crochet
Body.
Start crocheting from the bottom. Pink thread Alpina
Lily on example.
1) 6 sc in the amigurumi ring.
2) - 8) Crochet by continuous rounds. It is more
convenient to count the number of stitches then
rounds. Crochet 42 sc.
9) Increase, 5 sc = 7 sc. 10) – 16) Crochet 49 sc.
17) Increase, 6 sc = 8 sc. 18) – 24) Crochet 56 sс.
25) (increase, 3 sc) * 2 times = 10 sc. 26) – 32) Crochet
70 sc.
33) (increase, 4 sc) * 2 times = 12 sc. 34) – 40) Crochet
84 sc.
Insert a contrasting thin thread to mark the beginning
of the round or mark with a disappearing marker.
41) 1 sc, 4 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc, 2 sc = 18 sc.
42) 1 sc, (increase, 1 sc) * 4 times, 3 sc, increase, 2 sc,
increase, 2 sc = 24 sc.
43) 1 sc, (increase, 2 sc) * 4 times, 3 sc, increase, 4 sc,
increase, 2 sc = 30 sc.
Body.
44) 1 sc, (increase, 3 sc) * 4 times, 13 sc = 34 sc.
45) 1 sc, (increase, 4 sc) * 4 times, 13 sc = 38 sc.
46) - 48) Crochet sc.
Make a wireframe. I made piece of 20 cm with a little margin.
The tail length of my seahorse is 9.5 cm. Measure the tail of
your seahorse and calculate wire length by proportions. I
used a wire of 1.5 mm in diameter. If you use thinner one
make frame in a few layers. Bent the end in the loop. The
thickness of the wire did not allow to me to make the
winding from the beginning, so I stepped back to the wider
part. Insert the frame untill the end, twist it into a tight spiral
and bend it slightly.
49) 28 sc, decrease, sc, decrease, sc, decrease, 2 sc = 35 sc.
50) 28 sc, decrease, 1 sc, decrease, 2 sc = 33 sc.
51) 2 sc, decrease, 22 sc, decrease, 5 sc = 31 sc.
52) - 54) Crochet sc.
55) 11 sc, decrease, 2 sc, decrease, 11 sc, decrease, 1 sc = 28
sc.
56) 12 sc, decrease, 12 sc, decrease = 26 sc.
57) 10 sc, decrease, 1 sc, decrease, 11 sc = 24 sc.
Body.
58) 8 sc, decrease, 3 sc, decrease, 9 sc = 22 sc.
59) 7 sc, decrease, 3 sc, decrease, 8 sc = 20 sc.
60) 6 sc, decrease, 3 sc, decrease, 7 sc = 18 sc.
Tightly fill the body.
61) - 63) Crochett 18 sc.
64) 7 sc, decrease, 7 sc, increase, 1 sc = 18 sc.
The decrease should be in front, and the increase in the back. If you
have a shift, then shift them and shift the decrease in the next
rounds.
65) 6 sc, decrease, 10 sc = 17 sc. 66) 6 sc, decrease, 9 sc = 16 sc.
67) Crochet 16 sc.
Fill the neck.
68) 6 sc, decrease, 8 sc = 15 sc. 69) 5 sc, decrease, 8 sc = 14 sc.
70) 5 sc, decrease, 7 sc = 13 sc. 71) 5 sc, decrease, 6 sc = 12 sc.
72) - 75) Crochet sc.
The frame should be hide inside, bend it forward. Insert cotter pin
with washer. Easier to insert a T-head cotter pin. I inserted 2 o-head.
Look both examples on the photos. I have to shorten the tendrils of
the lower cotter pin, because it did not fit in the neck. I insert a
smaller washer in the neck, a little bigger in the head.
76) 6 decreases.
Tighten the hole with a needle if necessary, hide the thread inside.
Tummy.
Mint color, thin thread, on the example Pekhorka Openwork
Ajurnaya.
1) 10 CH. Further turning rows.
2) 9 sc from the second loop.
3) CH, 9 sc work in the back loops.
4) CH, 9 sc work in the front loops.
5) CH, 9 sc work in the front loops.
Additionall row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 4th row. (look video
on the 13th page).
6) CH, work in the back loops of the 5th row, 1 sc, increase,
5 sc, increase, 1 sc = 11 sc.
7) CH, 11 sc, work in the front loops.
8) CH, 11 sc, work in front loops.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 7th row.
9) CH, work in the back loops of the 8th row, 1 sc, increase,
7 sc, increase, 1 sc = 13 sc.
10) CH, 13 sc, work in the front loops.
11) CH, 13 sc, work in the front loops.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 10th row.
Tummy.
12) CH, work in the back loops of the 11th row, 13 sc. 21) CH, work in the back loops of the 20th row, 1 sc, 1 decrease,
3 sc, decrease, 1 sc = 7 sc.
13) CH, 13 sc, work in the front loops.
22) CH, 7 sc, work in the front loops.
14) CH, 13 sc, work in the front loops.
23) CH, 7 sc, work in the front loops.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 13th row. Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet sc in
the abandoned back loops of the 22nd row.
15) CH, work in the back loops of the 14th row, 1 sc, 1
decrease, 7 sc, decrease, 1 sc = 11 sc. 24) CH, work in the back loops of the 23rd row, 1 sc, 1 decrease,
1 sc, decrease, 1 sc = 5 sc.
16) CH, 11 sc, work in the front loops.
25) CH, 5 sc, work in the front loops.
17) CH, 11 sc, work in the front loops.
26) CH, 5 sc, work in the front loops.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 16th row. Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet sc in
the abandoned back loops of the 25th row.
18) CH, work in the back loops of the 17th row, 1 sc, 1
decrease, 5 sc, decrease, 1 sc = 9 sc. 27) CH, work in the back loops of the 26th row, 5 sc.
19) CH, 9 sc, work in the front loops. 28) CH, 5 sc, work in the front loops.
20) CH, 9 sc, work in the front loops. 29) CH, 5 sc, work in the front loops.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and crochet Try on the detail on the body. If necessary, add another rapport
sc in the abandoned back loops of the 19th row. from the 27th to 29th row or vice versa finish crocheting
earlier.
Tummy.
Additional row, without numbering. Make CH and
crochet sc in the abandoned back loops of the 28th row.
30) CH, work in the back loops of the 29th row, 5 sc.
31) CH, 5 sc, wok in the front loops.
Crochet the detail around the perimeter with sc. Leave
the loop open, insert a thin pink thread (on the
example, Rose mills Kirov). Crochet the sc around, work
in the back loop only. Leave a long thread for sewing.
Pin the detail to the front part, straighten it well,
observe symmetry. Sew the part with a needle around
the entire perimeter. Try to sew not across the edge, but
through of the stitches of the last round.
Watch the video with the tummy:
https://youtu.be/JYfSW3kmtng
Nose.
Thick thread or thin in 2 threads. On example Alpina Lily.
1) 6 sc in the amigurumi ring.
2) - 4) Continuous rounds. Crochet sc by the wrong side
out.
5) 6 increases = 12 sc. 6) Crochet sc.
7) (1 sc, increase) * 6 times = 18 sc.
Turn out the detail, rounds until the sixth should remain
inside, so that it would look like a pipe. Continue crochet
by face side out.
8) Crochet sc. 9) (1 sc, decrease) * 6 times = 12 sc.
10) 3 CH, 4 sc, 3 CH, 8 sc.
11) 4 sc in the loops of chain, 4 sc, 4 sc in the loop of chain,
8 sc = 20 sc.
12) Skip 4 sc, crochet 4 sc, skip 4 sc, crochet 8 sc = 12 sc.
Tighten the stitches over the gaps. It will be the nostrils.
13) Crochet sc. 14) 6 decreases. 15) - 17) Crochet sc.
18) 6 increases = 12 sc.
19) (1 sc, increase) * 6 times = 18 sc.
Head.
20) 2 sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 2 inc (these increases should
be strictly centered on top, if this is not so, shift
the place of the beginning of the round), 3 sc, inc,
6 sc = 22 sc.
Insert a contrasting thread or mark the beginning
of the round with a vanishing marker.
21) 2 sc, inc, 5 sc, 2 inc, 5 sc, inc, 6 sc = 26 sc.
22) 2 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc = 32 sc.
23) 4 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 7 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc = 38 sc.
24) 6 sc, 2 inc, 6 sc, 1 inc, 4 sc, 1 inc, 6 sc, 2 inc, 10
sc = 44 sc.
25) - 31) Crochet sc.
Head.
Insert the cotter pin in the bottom center between the
29th and 30th rounds.
Wear the washer and tighten the cotter pin.
You can also use discs or discs with washers. I prefer
metal washers.
32) 10 sc, dec, 20 sc, dec, 10 sc = 42 sc.
33) (5 sc, dec) * 6 times = 36 sc.
34) (4 sc, dec) * 6 times = 30 sc.
35) (3 sc, dec) * 6 times = 24 sc.
36) (2 sc, dec) * 6 times = 18 sc.
37) (1 sc, dec) * 6 times = 12 sc.
Fill the head tightly. Make the shape for the forehead
and cheeks.
38) (dec) * 6 times = 6 sc.
Close the hole with a needle, hide the thread inside.
Watch the video as I close the hole with a needle. Set
the maximum quality settings:
https://youtu.be/tbd-nc73FC4
Head.
Crest.
Thin mint thread. Pekhorka Openwork on the
example.
Crochet 10 CH.
Leave tail at the end 3-4 cm.
1) 3 double crochet from the 4th loop, 2 half double
crochet, 2 sc.
Then crochet all rows only in the back loops.
Crocheting should be of medium density, not very
tight, but so that there are no holes.
2) CH, 2 sc, 2 half double crochet, 3 double crochet.
3) 3 CH, 3 double crochet, 2 half double crochet, 2 sc.
4) - 15) 6 times repeat the 2nd and 3rd rows.
Tighten the loop to leave a short tail. Crochet sc
around 3 sides of the crest with a pink thin thread.
Catch all short tails when crochet 4-5 times, tighten
the ends and cut them. Start from one of the narrow
edges, crochet 3 sides and return to the tapering
edge with sl st. Tighten the loop, leave the tail for
sewing.
Side fins.
Thin mint thread. Crochet two identical parts.
Crochet 10 CH.
1) Crochet 9 sc from the second loop, at the end.
Catch the tail 3-4 times, tighten, cut.
2) 3 CH, (2 double crochet with one vertex and one
base) * 2 times, 1 double crochet, 2 half double
crochet, 4 sc.
3) CH, 4 sc, 2 half double crochet, CCH, (2 double
crochet with one vertex and one base) * 2 times.
4) CH, 9 sc.
Crochet sc along narrow upper edge, tighten the
loop, leave the tail for sewing detail.
Back fin.
Make frame for the back fin.
Fold the wire in the 4 rays, like on the photo. Use a
thin wire of 0.75 mm. Gently wrap the frame with a
thin layer of tape. The length of the external rays 3
cm, internal 2.5 cm.
Сrochet 4 details with a thin pink thread.
Crochet 7 sc in the amigurumi ring. And crochet
several continuous rounds. I got 16 rounds on the
extreme and 15 on the inside rays. On the first part,
leave the thread at 15-20 cm, the second and third -
short 4-5 cm, at the last don't cut the thread.
Try on the details on the frame, they should be easy
to put on. You can stretch them a bit with a smooth
object, I used metal hook without plastic handle and
small scissors with blunt ends.
Back fin.
You can crochet these details directly on the frame. Then
join the details together with a needle and crochet around
all details.
I joined details by hook. Start from the first 2 details. Join
two details together, make 2 sc, catch the free loop of the
second detail.
Then crochet 2 sc along the edge of the second detail. Join
the second detail with the third, make 2 sc, again catch the
free loop of the third detail. Crochet 2 sc along the edge of
the third detail.
Join third detail and fourth detail, make 2 sc. Leave the free
loop from the 4th detail on the opposite side from the
joining place.
Tighten all free tails, trim to 3 cm, hide the tails in the
details. Put on details on the frame.
With a thread from the fourth part, crochet around all
details together in a circle. Crochet 2 rounds. In the third
round make 3 decreases on each side (total 6 in the round)
over the middle details. Tighten the loop, leave the tail for
sewing.
Back fin.

The membranes for the back fin. Thin mint thread.


Crochet the three details by the turning rows.
1) 2 CH. Leave the tail about 10 cm. 2) 2 sc from the second chain. 3) CH, 2 inc.
Then always work the back loops, except for the extreme stitches in both loops.
4) CH, 4 sc. 5) CH, inc, 2 sc, inc. 6) CH, 6 sc.
7) CH, inc, 4 sc, inc. 8), 9) CH, 8 sc. 10) CH, inc, 6 sc, inc.
11), 12) CH, 10 sc.
Look assembly of fin on the photos and video, do not forget to set the maximum
viewing quality settings:
https://youtu.be/r794l_6PV_M
Sew the crest.
Sew the crest.
Pin one end of the crest clearly in the center. Pin
the other side in the front clearly in the middle.
Check that the position is correct.
First sew a pair of tight stitches on the one end, pull
out the pin. Pierce the head through to the other
end of the crest, also sew a pair of tight stitches,
remove the second pin. Now the crest is fixed and
you can sew the entire edge. Make frequent
stitches and tighten them well, the crest should
stand.
Watch the video:
https://youtu.be/yfux7eWX-qo
Sew the back fin.
Pin the back fin also on both sides.
Sew by often tight stitches over the edge.
Use flat pliers for hold the needle.
Watch the video :
https://youtu.be/Tf0XP2qqfuA
Sewing the side fins.

Pin the side fins symmetrically on the left and right


sides. Sew the top edge and a couple of stitches
around the edges. The fins should have a lying
position along the body.

I recommend wash the toy before final decor.


Eyes.
Eyes can be made of beads, safety eyes, crocheted, embroidered,
fabric, etc. On example used glass eyes on the pins.
You can simply use these eyes. Can make eye whites from felt,
fabric, embroider or draw. I offer make it with polymer clay. Used
clay «Fimo soft». Sculpt two identical ovals from polymer clay.
Pierce and drown eyes closer to one of the narrow sides of the
oval. Make the back side flat. Give the simmetrical shape to the
two eyes. Try on the eye on the head, imagine facial expression.
Bake clay in the oven. Bake in a tightly closed box of thick paper or
cardboard, so that the «chemistry» does not settle on the oven
walls. Bake according to the instructions for the clay and adjust to
your oven. I bake about 30 minutes at a minimum temperature. My
oven is too hot. I bake 15 minutes with the slightly open door, and
15 minutes with closed door. Polymer clay should be very durable
after baking.
Watch the video:
https://youtu.be/9Nh87ZE0yQY
Eyes.

Bend the pin, use round-nose pliers.


Expand the hole on the head between the stitches. Use the thick needle. I step back from the nose 5 rounds. You can change the
place to your taste.
I recommend to use waxed thread or any other strong thread.
Insert the thread from the back of the head. Pull out it in place of the eye, and leave the long tail of the thread on the back of the
head. Make a loop to capture the eye, tighten the loop by pulling the metal part inward. And a add some glue under plastic part.
Out the thread in place of the second eye, also make a loop, insert the second eye. Pull out the thread in the same place on the
back of the head where it was entered.
Tighten both tails. Pull it so that the eyes deeply “sit down”. The ends of the thread several times tightly knot. Hide both tails
inside. It is advisable to do all this in one hole between the stitches.
Watch the video:

https://youtu.be/r21kM7kr_PY
Crochet eyelids.
The eyelids are crocheted.
Take a long thin pink thread. Make a knot. With a needle, pull out the thread near one side of the eye,
check the strength of the fastening. Make a loop and crochet 14 ch, tighten the last loop. Do not pull
the thread out of the needle. Insert thread on the other side of the eye, tighten. Pull out the thread at
the beginning of the chain. Crochet 1 sl st, 4 sc, 4 half double crochet, 4 sc, 1 sl st. Fasten the edges
with the needle. Make one or two tight stitches at the base of the eyelid so that it locks. Repeat with
the second eye.
You can correct size of eyelids, depend on the size of your eyes.
Additionally, you can prime the eyelids with a solution of PVA glue with water. Pin them with needles
until they dry to give the desired position.
Look the process on the video:
https://youtu.be/dRiJosdOZPM
Tinting.
I use my own technique for tint the toy.
It is tinting with dry pastel. Pastel gives a beautiful
shadow effect and a soft transition between
colors. I dilute the pastel with water so that it can
be applied pointwise. Pastel with water does not
need to be rubbed. It easily penetrates deep into
the fabric.
Crush the pastel into powder. Take one or mix a
several colors to get the desired shade. Add a few
drops of acrylic varnish to the pastel and some
warm water. Acrylic varnish fixs and protects the
tinting.
The result is evaluated after drying, the wet toy is
always more darker, do not be intimidated.
If you are afraid to spoil the toy, the first time you
can make a tint without varnish. Pure pastel is
easy to wash off. And if everything is fine, cover it
with a varnish solution with water on top.
Tinting.
First, make the tint a bright crimson color or another bright color,
that depends on color body your seahorse.
Draw brightly, without shading. Make round spots on the body
and head, spots around the eyes. Take my picture as a basis.
Slightly paler, with the addition of water, draw the ribs of the back
fin, nose, nostrils, base of the nose, crest, around the tummy, tail
spiral. As light as possible with a pale solution, lightly walk along
the cheeks, forehead, sides, all convex parts. Should remain only
light shadows in these places.
Watch the video below.
https://youtu.be/8aPGph7krUk
Then make bright color for the mint details. Draw on the all folds.
Use the gel pen to draw the folds of the eyelid, holes in the
nostrils and eyebrows, as in the photo. Evaluate the final result
after complete drying.
Watch the video below:
https://youtu.be/JA2rpvRwuWc
Ready baby.
Blue seahorse.
This is second example.
Coco Vita cotton threads were used for the body and
head. These threads are slightly thinner, so the toy came
out smaller. 13 cm instead 15 cm.
The difference between 2 toys is only in the color scheme
and the form of cotter pins.
The blue seahorse has a t-head cotter pin, and head spins.
The pink one has a double o-head cotter pin, and the head
sways.
On the video you can see the observed difference in
fastening:
https://youtu.be/FYXJ13W5abI
The end.

Kindly remind you that the paid and free distribution


any materials of this pattern is prohibited.
You may share and tag me @totaksusha when you post
your finished toy on Instagram or write link for my shop.
Visit me on Instagram to stay up to date on all of my
sales, specials and more:
https://instagram.com/totaksusha
You can find more my handmade product at the
following link:
https://www.etsy.com/shop/TotaKsushaDolls

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