Note On Rabbit and Pig
Note On Rabbit and Pig
Note On Rabbit and Pig
Planning Principles Planning principles and objectives for any livestock development include:
Minimal environmental (visual, odour, noise, wastes) impact and minimal impact on adjoining
uses, with allowance for future expansion of operations, Must be consistent with relevant
planning principles and objectives articulated in Local Council Development Plans. Maximise
livestock welfare and Minimise disease risk
General Considerations • Livestock farms should not create any significant adverse impact,
including denudation, erosion and pollution of the environment, nuisance, human health risk,
livestock welfare problems or loss of visual amenity. • Livestock farms should be sited, designed
and managed to ensure that odour emissions and noise are minimized. • All buildings and other
ancillary structures should be sited as unobtrusively as possible. Suitable trees and shrubs should
be planted and maintained around the sheds and other ancillary structures intended for animal
husbandry, to visually screen these activities from adjoining roads and properties. Wastes
Disposal • All effluent and other wastes must be properly managed and disposed of without
adverse effects on public health and the environment, including water resources. • Solid or liquid
wastes should not be spread on the property within the prescribed distance of dwellings,
watercourses or roads. Livestock Management Systems Simply put, it is a measure of the
exposure of livestock to sunshine and pasture. It can also mean the degree of restriction applied
to livestock movement or freedom. The standard management systems are Extensive, Semi-
Intensive and Intensive Management Systems. In recent years however there have been
modifications to this classification, nonetheless it will suffice for this class. The following is a
summary of the characteristics of the three management systems
RABBIT PRODUCTION
Rabbit are very interesting and rewarding animals that can provide a great deal of pleasure and
interest, whether kept in ones, and twos, or in hundreds. There are two main reasons why people
keep rabbits in the tropics: as a source of food and/or as a source of income.
BENEFITS OF RABBIT PRODUCTION
1. Capital requirement is minimal. With some scrap wood or bamboo, a hutch can be
constructed.
2. Spacing is minimal. It can be set up at backyard.
3. A rabbit is a convenient ‘one meal size’, thus avoiding the need for storage.
4. Rabbit keeping is not restricted by any taboos or particular beliefs that prevent the eating of
rabbit meat or its promotion as food.
5. Feeding rabbits is very cheap. Even though supplementation with concentrate or grain is
sometimes necessary and definitely will increase growth rate, roadside grass, kitchen offal,
garden leaves, etc (feed of no direct value to humans). can provide the main feed at almost no
cost.
6. Rabbits can be tended by women, children or men unlike bigger animals for it needs no force
to be restrained.
7. Because they produce offspring regularly (gestation period of 28 – 32 days), they form a
regular source of income instead of a large amount at once.
8. It matures for table between 5 -6 months, breeding (5 – 7 months)
9. Rabbit is a prolific animal.
10. Meat from rabbit is an all white meat product that is high in protein and low in fat, sodium
and cholesterol as compared to other common meats, such as beef, lamb, pork and poultry.
Rabbit meat has been recommended for years by some physicians to their patients with coronary
heart conditions.
11. It is not a smelly or noisy animal and can easily be kept near to school buildings or people’s
houses.
12. It produces rich manure for gardening or flower beds.
BREEDS OF RABBIT
Dutch: The dutch is a small breed with a mature live weight of 2.5-3.5kg. It has a wide white
band of fur around its body at the shoulders as well as a white stripe down the middle of its face.
New Zealand White: This breed is used most widely throughout the world for meat production.
It is all white in colour and usually weighs 3-5kg when mature.
New Zealand Red: This is essentially red but has not been intensively selected for growth rate.
Mature live weight is 3-4.5kg.
Chinchilla: This breed is blue-grey in colour with a white belly. There is a thick fold of skin
around the front of the chest which is very obvious when the rabbit is in good condition and
sitting in a resting position. The weight range for the mature Chinchilla is 3-4.5kg
Californian: This is the second most popular breed for meat production. The colour is all white
but with black tipping on the nose, ears, feet and tail. The weight range for the mature
Californian is 3- 4.5kg. These breeds can be divided into two for practical purpose without trying
to make scientifically correct distinctions: 1. Fancy and Fur breeds These are not necessarily
good meat producers, they do not have large litters nor are they resistant to diseases. They have
nice skins, nice colours, funny ears etc. example is angora 2. Meat breeds These are also called
utility breeds, either by a fast growth rate or large and frequent litters. It is necessary to make a
further distinction based on weight. Light breeds (up to 2-3kg adult weight) Medium breeds (3-
5kg) Heavy breeds (>5kg)
HOUSING AND EQUIPMENT Rabbit housing and equipment differ from country to country.
Factors that affect their design include; 1. Climate 2. Raw materials (Availability and cost) 3.
Scale (large or medium) and system of production (Intensive, Extensive or semi-intensive) 4.
Expertise of the rabbit production Housing requirement Housing should be able to provide:
Adequate space: Since rabbit spends its entire life in its hutch, it therefore needs sufficient space
to avoid the stress caused by restriction of movement. Space should be able to provide good
ventilation to prevent the animal from being choked up by ammonia (NH3) from their urine.
Protection: Housing should be able to prevent against injury within the hutch, rain, direct
sunlight, direct and indirect wind and predators such as dogs, cats, rats, ants, man, etc.
TYPES OF CAGES/ HUTCHES Indoor hutches: These are kept inside a house (stable). The
stable is a place in which or under which the hutches are placed. Advantages: I. It provides good
conditions for the rabbit and the rabbit keeper II. Easy access to animal (even when there is rain
or high sunlight) III. For animal adequate protection IV. The individual hutch can be easily
cleaned and disinfected V. It allows ease increase in production Disadvantage: It is very
expensive Outdoor: The requirements of space, protection and ease of management can be
achieved through appropriate design, construction and siting. Design: A typical rabbit hutch
dimensions are follows; 1m above the ground Height of hutch: 60cm at the front, 50cm at the
back for easy drainage Width: 50-60cm Length: 90-120cm Construction: The materials used in
construction would usually be locally available materials such as interwoven branches, split
bamboo, mud, tin, plastic. If possible, a fence should be built around outdoor hutches and fitted
with a padlock gate. Siting: Common aspects of the siting include the following; a. It should be
placed near a house wall / fence to provide shade and protection (from sunlight, rain and wind).
Note that while too much sunlight may be stressful, too little is also undesirable because the
hutch may become damp, there will also be reduced disinfection by the sun’s ultraviolet rays,
and Vitamin D synthesis by the rabbit may be impaired if it does not experience some direct
sunlight. b. It is important to site hutches under trees in a very hot environment c. The site must
ensure security against predation. This is achieved when hutches are kept near keeper’s house.
Advantages: - it requires low capital - Materials are always available - Appropriate when starting
production Disadvantages: - No perfect protection against predator - Difficult to clean - Not easy
to increase the number of hutches quickly (it limits production) Floor Method: This involves
keeping the rabbits on the ground in a fenced area provided with simple boxes for shelter.
HOUSING EQUIPMENT
These are 1. Water trough 2, Feeder 3, Kindling (nest) box 4. Forage / Roughage rack
Water/Feeding Trough. The materials for water/feeding trough should provide the following; a.
it should be impossible to tip over b. Deep enough to discourage scratching out of contents c. It
must not cause injury to the rabbit d. It should not be expensive to prevent increase in cost of
production Roughage / Forage rack (it can be fitted inside or outside of the hutch) a. It must not
limit feed intake b. It must contain fresh succulent forage Nest boxes. This can be open or closed.
An open top 12" x 18" x 10" plywood box works well. This comes in when the animal is about to
kindle. a. It should not be placed until the animal is about to kindle b. It should be draught free/
proof c. It should prevent the young rabbits leaving until they are at least 2-3 weeks old.
MAINTENANCE OF EQUIPMENT
1. Water and feeding trough must be washed regularly (daily)
2. Use clean rag (cloth to dry the feeder
3. Disinfection of the water and feeding trough at least once in a week with EDTA or Izal to
remove feed adhered to feeder and prevent disease outbreak.
4. Roughage rack and cage must be cleaned once in a week and disinfect when young ones are
not there.
5. Checking for the development of sharp edges in hutches and on equipment which may cause
injury.
6. Nest box must be removed after weaning (5-6 weeks), wash and disinfect in preparation for
next breeding season.
NUTRITION Proper feeding will influence the rabbit’s growth, fertility and health. Some
feedstuffs contain a lot of protein; some are sources of energy (rice bran, tubers, etc). Protein and
energy as well as minerals are of importance. It should be noted that the amount of feed to give a
rabbit depends very much on the state of production. Protein level: The protein level of the feed
is very important. For efficient rabbit feeding, you need four diets. Since most rabbit producers
cannot (or do not want to) handle more than one feed, a 16-17% protein feed may be substituted.
Protein Requirements of Rabbits Newly weaned rabbits >18% CP 12-24 weeks old 16-18% CP
Breeder 15-17% CP Other stocks (Normal growth) 12-14% CP Carbohydrates and Fats
Carbohydrate and fats provide energy. Rabbit needs energy for contraction of muscles which
enable the rabbit to move. It is also used to join substance together to build up the rabbit’s body
and to make products such as hair and milk. Rabbit adjusts their food intake to satisfy their
energy requirements. A general recommendation of energy requirement for breeding rabbits is
2600-2700 Kcal DE/kgDM or 2.0-3.0 MJME/kgDM. Minerals Most of the minerals in the
rabbit’s body are in the bones and teeth which contain large amounts of the two minerals;
Calcium (Ca) and Phosphorus (P). These minerals help to give the bones their hardness. They are
also involved in maintaining the acid-alkaline balance in the blood. Phosphorus also involves in
energy transfer within the body cells. Ca, P and Vitamin D are often considered together because
they interact with each other. Other minerals are Mg, Na, K and Cl (major minerals). Examples
of trace minerals are Fe, Cu, S, Co, Zn, etc. Vitamins Vitamins are chemical that are require in
very small amount to speed up chemical reactions within the rabbit body. The most important
vitamins are vitamins A and D and the B vitamins, choline and Thiamin.
COPROPHAGY / CAECOTROPHY This is the eating of faecal-like pellets produced in the
caecum. These caecal pellets are sometimes called soft faeces. To do this, the rabbit sucks in the
soft faeces as they emerge from the anus, then swallow without chewing. Consumption of the
soft faeces starts when the rabbit is about 4 weeks old. Note that rabbit can survive without
practicing caecotrophy for many days but death is usual if they are prevented from eating their
soft faeces for several months. Soft faeces are higher in crude protein and lower in crude fibre
than hard faeces. Their higher protein level is due to their content of bacteria. Caecotrophy is a
very important part of the rabbit’s digestive processes. It recycles some unabsorbed nutrients as
well as returning protein and vitamin B rich bacteria for enzyme digestion in the small intestine.
The quantities of feed for total daily consumption for all animals are as follows; *Young
fattening rabbits (4-11 weeks); 110-130g * Lactating does with litters (weaning at 4 weeks): 350-
380g * Adult (maintenance) rabbits: 120g * For the rabbitry as a whole: from 1 to 1.4kg of feed
per mother cage per day
FEEDING SYSTEM These are: Extensive system: total dependence on forages and kitchen
wastes. Advantages - Cheap - Easy to provide the quantity of food required Disadvantages -
Forage availability varies with season - The quality of the forage reduces during dry season - It is
labour intensive - It can introduce diseases and health problems. Intensive system: Total
dependence on prepared concentrate foods from the feedmill. Advantages - High levels of
production - Little risk of disease introduction Disadvantages - Very costly - Depends on the
feed miller (in terms of availability and quality) Semi-intensive system: The use of forages
supplemented with prepared concentrate foods. It falls between the extensive and intensive
system in terms of advantage and disadvantages. It is also the system that is most suitable for the
small-scale producer. Types of feed Aside balanced pelleted feed which contains 3-35g DM per
kg of live weight per day given to the rabbit, the following wild and cultivated plants are suitable
for rabbit feed: Amaranthus spp. Mimosa pigra Arachis hypogea Panicum maximum
Cocos nucifera Daucus carota Ipomea batatas Leucaena leucocephala Tridax
procumbens Sorghum vulgare Vigna sinensis Zea mays Solanum tuberosum
SEXING OF RABBIT: Determining the sex of rabbits is not difficult with a little practice. It
can be carried out shortly after weaning at six to eight weeks. This is the time when the males
and females should be separated, the rabbit should be held on its back, put one finger on the tail
side of the genital opening and on the abdominal side. Press down gently and stretch the organ
with the finger and thumb. If it is a doe, a long slit will appear, if it is a buck, a small rounded
tube-like structure will show.
REPRODUCTION: The male The proper age for the first mating depends on the breed and
individual development. For small breeds it is 4-5 months, for large breeds 9-12 months. One
male can easily handle up to 8 - 10 does. It is good practice to keep the male hutch at some
distance from the females so they will not get accustomed to each other’s smell. The female The
does require more care and attention. Like the males, the proper age of first mating depends on
the bred and individual development. Mate does when they reach maturity (4-5 months for the
lighter breed, 7-9 months for the heavy breeds). Buying Breeder Stock Once buildings are built
or renovated and equipment purchased, you should purchase a good breeding stock. Remember
-- Poor breeding stock will produce poor offspring. It is important that you begin with good
stock. The price a breeder asks for stock does not reflect the quality of the rabbits. Only time,
records, and results can prove the worth of breeding stock and the reputation of the breeder.
Look at the records of the breeder's rabbitry to see the quality of the stock. Here are a few things
you should look for:
1. Good health
2. Average litter size (8 or more)
3. Death rate (not over 5%)
4. Percent conception (90% or better)
5. Dressing percentage (55-60% including heart, liver and kidneys)
6. Select rabbit based on the feeding style/system. All of this information may not be available,
but most of it should be. It pays to deal with a breeder who keeps good, accurate, reliable
records. A look around the breeder's rabbitry can tell you much about the type of operation he
has, but his records tell the real story.
MATING, Experience suggests that early morning or evening mating is best. It is certainly
advisable to avoid the hottest periods of the day for this important operation. For mating, always
take the doe to the buck’s cage. If they fail to mate a few minutes, take her to a different buck. If
this fails, try again the next day but do not leave the doe with the buck all day or even an hour in
an attempt to solve a mating problem. If the does is ready to be mated she will stand still within a
few seconds, stretch out and slightly raise her hindquarter so as to allow the buck to mount and
mate. Successful mating is signalled by the buck thrusting forward and literally falling off the
doe. Often the buck makes a characteristics cry of pain or joy. If the buck slides backwards off
the doe and does not fall the mating has not taken place. If mating was successful put the doe
back in her hutch.
PREGNANCY TEST Palpating Palpating is a method used for determining doe pregnancy at
14 days after mating. Non-pregnant does are re-bred immediately. The objective is to feel the
developing embryos in the horns of the doe’s uterus. Position the doe lying relaxed, feet down,
facing you. Grasp the ears and a fold of skin from the shoulders (scruff) with one hand. Place
your other hand the body between the hind legs and just in front of the pelvis. Place your thumb
on one side and forefinger on the other side of the uterine horns. Be careful not to apply a lot of
pressure; just slide your fingers along and the embryos should slide gently between the thumb
and forefinger. Does that have been handled often are much easier to palpate. Do not attempt
palpation unless the doe is calm or you may damage the embryos. Late pregnancy test
Inexperience keepers should practice detecting pregnancy on does that are 20 days pregnant at
which stage the foetuses are easy to identify. By around 28 days the mammary gland will have
developed significantly and this can be regarded as final confirmation of pregnancy. At around
29 days, the doe will begin to remove fur from her abdomen to make a nest. Pseudo-Pregnancy
Test False pregnancy occurs as a result of sterile mating or more commonly from stimulation of
one doe riding another. It happens more frequently with does that have not kindled their first
litter. Always separate does at least a month prior to breeding. Does must be separated at least
18-20 days before mating. The doe may pull fur and attempt to make a nest but she will not keep
it clean.
KINDLING AND MOTHER CARE When the doe is almost ready for kindling (about 4 weeks
after mating) you can put a nest box in the cage (hutch). Kindling can take place in this nest box
at any time of the day but morning early seems to be the most popular time. All she needs now is
rest and feed. Cannibalism or Abortion Cannibalism and abortion are common problems. The
causes are many and mostly undependable. These are some of the causes:
1. First-litter does are extremely nervous. Give them one more chance and then cull if
cannibalism recurs.
2. Unbalanced diet
3. Lack of water
4. Predators can cause the doe to stamp her feet and mash the young
5. Unusual noise can cause the doe to injure the young and can result in cannibalism.
6. Moving nest box after young are kindled.
7. Shallow nest box makes the does feel insecure and she is easily disturbed.
Fostering; Fostering means getting a doe to accept rabbit(s) from another litter. Guidelines for
carrying out fostering are as follows: * Mate does on the same day * The litters involved should
be born within 3-4 days of each other. * Only foster rabbits that are less than five days old. *
Remove both the foster doe and the donor doe from their hutches. * Carefully remove the rabbits
to be fostered from their nest with the minimum of disturbance and without touching any of the
rabbis that are not being fostered; return the donor doe. * Introduce the rabbits to be fostered,
disturbing the foster nest as little as possible. * Leave the newly mixed rabbits for a few hours so
that they all take on the same smell * Return the recipient doe to the hutch while at the same time
giving her some food which you know she likes.
Weaning Weaning is the separation of the doe and the young. This is usually takes place
between 5-6 weeks. After weaning, the doe should be allowed to recover her body condition
before re-mating. Much will depend on the level of feeding but the doe should normally have
rest of at least four weeks.
Handling of Rabbits Rabbits should be handled gently. They must never be lifted by their
ears. A rabbit can always be picked up by the skin of the shoulders. For rabbits weighing
less than 1kg, one method is to pick them up and carry them by the saddle just above the
hindquarters, using thumb and index finger If the rabbit is heavier, it is best to take it by the skin
fold around the shoulders, but if it has to be transported or shifted for more than 5 or
10minutes, it either be supported with the other hand or be carried on the forearm with the head
in the bend of the elbow If it struggles and cannot be controlled, it is best to just drop it so it will
fall on all fours and then pick it up again within 2-3seconds.
RABBIT DISEASES Ear Canker and Skin Mange: External parasites such as mites can cause a
variety of skin and ear conditions. With ear canker the entire ear may become filled with crusty
scabs. Without attention the mange may spread onto and over the face. All rabbits and
particularly their ears should be regularly inspected foe mange and skin sores. Rabbit with ear
canker may shake their heads a great deal. Mange caused by mites can be easily controlled by
acaricide drops or solution (dipping) Coccidiosis: This is the most common diseases in rabbits. It
may be classified as a parasitic disease since the causative organism is a microscopic animal
(protozoa). Symptoms in moderate or severe cases include a loss of appetite, “pot belly”,
diarrhoea and an inability to gain weight. Coccidiostats may be bought and added to their
drinking water to prevent Coccidiosis or to cure it as required. Mastitis: This is a bacterial
disease is not common but is occasionally seen in rabbit. It occurs when there is an infection and
inflammation of the teats, which become hard and sore. Antibiotic (75,000-100,000 units of
penicillin) will clear up the condition but as it has a tendency to recur; it may be unwise to
continue breeding from that doe. Snuffles (Chronic Rhinitis): It is a bacterial infection of the
respiratory system similar to cold in humans. The symptoms are sneezing, noisy breathing, a
runny nose and wet and matted fur on the face and inside of the front legs as a result of the rabbit
using its front legs to wipe its nose and face. Antibiotics may appear to be effective but mortality
is usually high and those rabbits that recover are often affected again if exposed to some new
stress.
RECORD KEEPING The only way you can know how well you are doing in the rabbit
business is to keep good records. If you keep good records then you can make sound
management and business decisions. Good records let you know if you are making a profit, and
they are necessary for income tax purposes. Keep only necessary records. You can easily
overburden yourself with record keeping. Decide what records you need and then keep them
daily. Listed below are some basic records you need to keep:
1. Breeding records - date bred and buck used
2. Kindling dates and number born, dead and alive
3. Number and weight of weaned rabbits
4. Average weight at market time and age of fryers at that weight
5. Expenditures (including utilities)
6. Sales You should design your own record cards to meet your needs. Sample Records
An example of a doe record card Doe Name----------------------- Date of
birth-------------------------------------- Date mated Buck used Date kindled Number born
alive/dead Date weaned Number weaned Notes An example of a buck record card Doe
Number----------------------- Date of birth-------------------------------------- Date used Doe mated
Date doe kindled Number born alive/dead Number weaned