Dude Rabbit Patter

1
LittleOwlsHut
www.LittleOwlsHut.com
Crochet
Pattern
By Svetlana Pertseva
Skill level: Experienced

Dude Rabbit
About this pattern Materials and tools
The toy is crocheted in Yarn:
continuous spirals without ü pink color yarn – any yarn. I used approximately 5 skeins of “Baby
joining the rounds. You will need Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
a stitch marker to keep track of
where the beginning of each ü white color yarn – any yarn that crochet to the same gauge as pink
round starts. Move the marker up color yarn. I used approximately 2 skeins of white “Baby Softy” by
to the first stitch of the next Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
round after finishing the previous ü red or bright pink color yarn – any yarn that crochet to the same
one.
gauge as pink color yarn. I used approximately 10 m of bright pink
If you don't have a stitch marker
you can always use a scrap of “Baby Softy” by Alize (100% polyester, 50g/115m).
contrasting yarn instead. You can You can buy this yarn as a set here
see it in my photos. https://www.etsy.com/shop/LittleOwlsHutRUSSIAN
I use USA terminology for my

pattern (don’t worry if you use
UK terms, all the differences are
explained in the pattern).
Finished size
Approx. 65 cm (25.6 inches) tall
without ears/95 cm (37.4 inches) Tip: You can use any fluffy yarn (chenille, velour, wool, etc). The
tall with ears included using the thicker the yarn, the bigger your toy will be. Make sure the yarn you
materials stated in the pattern. use is soft. If you use the yarn that is too stiff, you will not be able to
shape the muzzle nicely.
Note: If you use finer yarn, for example, “Nubuk” by Kartopu (22%
Happy acrylic, 78% polyamide, 550m/100g), your toy will turn out 45 cm
crocheting! (17.7 inches). In this case you will need approximately 1 skein of pink
color yarn, a quarter of skein of white color yarn and small amount of
red or bright pink color yarn.
www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

2
LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet pattern 2016
ü Crochet hook. I used 2.0 mm (approximately US steel hook 1, Abbreviations

UK steel hook 1). ch(s) = chain(s)
ü Two ready-made eyes (I used 18-20 mm in diameter). You can st(s) = stitch(es)
use beads or half beads instead. sl st = slip stitch
sc(s) = single crochet(s)
ü Sewing needle and tapestry needle for needle sculpting.
inc(s) = increasing(s) (2 sc in 1 st)
ü Strong thread for needle sculpting. dec(s) = decreasing(s) (sc2tog)
ü A piece of thick cloth to make the neck firmer (optional). double inc = 3 sc in one st
ü Stuffing. Rnd = round
ü dc = double crochet
tr = treble (triple) crochet
Tip (make it right) Tip (make it right) If there is a record in the brackets
If there are no special notes, the toy When making toys the right side in the pattern, multiplied by some
is crocheted under both parts of the looks like this: number, for example (3 sc, 1 inc) x
loop. In some rows, there are 3, it means you need to repeat this
special notes: ‘into the front loop action 3 times, that is 3 sc, 1 inc, 3
only’ or ‘into the back loop only’. In sc, 1 inc, 3 sc, 1 inc.
that case, you need to follow these
instructions. Tip (gauge)
When making toys, you should use

And the backside looks like this: a much smaller hook than
recommended for the yarn you
choose.
Make sure you crochet tight
enough; otherwise, the stuffing will
show through the holes.
TIP (yarn)
If you use different yarn, the toy will be bigger or smaller and you will need more or less yarn and wire than stated in
the pattern (i.e. thicker yarn will produce a larger toy and you may require more yarn).
USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Abbreviations USA Abbreviations UK
Projects for first-time crocheters using
ch - chain ch - chain basic stitches. Minimal shaping.
sc - single crochet dc - double crochet
hdc - half double crochet htr - half treble Projects using yarn with basic stitches,
dc - double crochet tr - treble repetitive stitch patterns,
tr - treble (triple crochet) dtr - double treble simple color changes, and simple
dtr - double treble tr tr - triple treble shaping and finishing.
sl st - slip stitch sl - slip stitch
Projects using a variety of techniques,
such as basic lace patterns or color
Other differences in crochet terminology used: patterns, mid-level shaping and
finishing.
Terminology USA Terminology UK
Projects with intricate stitch patterns,
fasten off cast off techniques and dimension,
skip miss such as non-repeating patterns, multi-
gauge tension color techniques, fine threads, small
yarn over (yo) yarn over hook (yoh) hooks, detailed shaping and refined
finishing.
2
Tip (shift stitch)

While working, you will need to keep the work
symmetrical. As work tends to twist to the right
you need to adjust position of the marker periodically
(beginning of round). If you notice that marker moves
right, you need to work one extra stitch in the end of
round and move marker for one stitch (now 2nd st of
the round becomes 1st). If you notice that the marker
moves left, you need to unravel one stitch (or more if
Heed help with this pattern?
needed). This is shift stitch – it is not included in
You are welcome to ask any questions in our Rabbit
description of rounds.
thread on Ravely where this toy already made by
Usually you have to do shift stitches every 3-5 rounds
many crafters.
(depending on the yarn, hook and your gauge). To
http://goo.gl/G16vBt
check if it is time to work shift stitch fold your work in
half and check if marker still goes straight.
You should keep the marker in a straight line on most
parts of the toy. Instructions for the marker are given
in the description of each part of the toy if needed.
Gauge
Crochet a swatch using your yarn and matching crochet
Mouth
hook to make sure that you have chosen the right yarn
with bright pink color yarn
and hook for the toy 65 cm (25.6 inches) tall without
It is not necessary to keep the marker straight. Work in
ears/95 cm (37.4 inches) tall with ears included.
rows (turn your work after each row).
Instruction for the swatch:
Ch 11 and work from 4th st from the hook:
Rnd 1: 6 sc in a magic ring
Row 1: 3 tr, 3 dc, 1 sc, 1 double inc in last st, turn to
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
work down the other side of the foundation chain: 1 sc,
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 18 sts
3 dc, 3 tr = 17 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 30 sts
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) x 6 = 36 sts
Compare your swatch with the one in the next picture.
They should me of the same size (the diameter of my
swatch is 4.5 cm/1.8 inches). If not, take bigger or
smaller hook than you used before (depending on the
result) and work another swatch. If it does not help –
choose different yarn and make other swatch.
3
Row 3: ch 1, 17 sc = 17 sts
Do not turn.
Row 2: ch 1, 17 sc = 17 sts
Row 4: 9 sc across the row ends = 9 sts
4
Fasten off. It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.
Tip: If you think your yarn won’t allow you to tighten

the magic ring for Rnd 1, feel free to chain 2 sts and
work 6 sc in the 2nd st from the hook.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Rnd 3: 1 inc, 11 sc = 13 sts
Rnds 4-6: 1 sc in each st around = 13 sts
Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 7: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 3, 1 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 8: into the back loop only – 1 sc in each st around
= 16 sts
Rnd 11: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 4= 12 sts
Rnd 12: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 4= 8 sts
Stuff but not too firmly. Decrease until the opening is
Teeth (make 2) closed. Fasten off and weave in loose ends.
with white color yarn
It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.


Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff but not too
firmly.
Now join both eyes as follows. Secure pink color yarn

to any unworked loop of Rnd 8 of the right eye holding
the piece with the white part facing away from you.
Eyes (make 2)
Rnd 1: 16 sc around the right eye, 16 sc around the left
eye = 32 sts
5

Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Attach the ready-made eyes. Glue them if needed.
6
Nose remove the marker until the toy is finished. Remember
with bright pink color yarn to keep the round marker straight with the shift
Remember to keep the round marker straight with the stitches while working the piece.
shift stitches while working the piece.

Ch 5 and work around the foundation chain starting
from 2nd st from the hook:
Rnd 1: 1 inc, 2 sc, 1 double inc in last st, turn to work
down the other side of the foundation chain: 3 sc = 10
sts
Rnd 2: 2 inc, 2 sc, 3 inc, 2 sc, 1 inc = 16 sts
Rnd 3: (2 inc, 6 sc) х 2= 20 sts
Rnd 4: (2 inc, 8 sc) х 2= 24 sts
with pink color yarn

You can mark the points for needle sculpting as you
crochet the head. It is easier to do at this part of your
Rnd 7: (2 dec, 8 sc) х 2= 20 sts
work rather than count sts when the head is finished.
Rnd 8: (2 dec, 6 sc) х 2= 16 sts
Count the required amount of sts to the left or to the
Rnd 9: 2 dec, 2 sc, 3 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec = 10 sts
right of the marker at the row stated in the chart below
Stuff slightly. Decrease until the opening is closed.
and mark this place with a piece of contrasting color
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
yarn or a stitch marker. If the amount of sts is zero,
then you should mark the point on the line of the
round marker. The markers need to be placed at the
required distance from the marker on both sides – with
the exception of those placed on the marker or at the
center back of the head. If it is easier for you to mark
the points while crocheting, they are stated in the
description of the rounds as well.
Head
Tip: I recommend that you use different colors for
The marker goes from the top of the head and runs different types of markers (don’t forget the meaning of
down the center front of the face to the chin. Do not
7
each color). For example, markers 1 – red, markers 2 Rnd 19: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 3, 36 sc, (1 inc, 6 sc) х 3= 84 sts
– blue, etc. All additional markers are marked with Rnd 20: (1 inc, 9 sc) х 2, 1 inc, 42 sc, 1 inc, (9 sc, 1 inc)
underlined text. х 2= 90 sts
Rnd 21: 1 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc, 48 sc, 1 inc, 18 sc, 1 inc,
The amount
1 sc = 94 sts
Point for of sts to the
Rnd 22: 1 sc, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc, marker 21, 50 sc,
needle Round # left or to the
marker 2, 1 inc, 19 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 98 sts
sculpting right of the
Rnd 23: marker 5, 1 sc, 1 inc, 94 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 100 sts
marker
Rnd 24: 1 sc, 1 inc, 48 sc, marker neck #2, 48 sc, 1 inc,
1, 11 38 29
1 sc = 102 sts
2, 21 22 24 Rnd 25: 1 sc, 1 inc, 98 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 104 sts
5 23 0 Rnd 28: 1 sc, 1 inc, 104 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 110 sts
the middle of Rnd 29: 1 sc, 1 inc, 106 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 112 sts
6 53
the round Rnd 30: 1 sc, 1 inc, 54 sc, marker neck#1, 54 sc, 1 inc, 1
the middle of sc = 114 sts
neck#1 30
the round Rnd 31: 1 sc, 1 inc, 110 sc, 1 inc, 1 sc = 116 sts
the middle of Rnds 32-37: 1 sc in each st around = 116 sts
neck #2 24
the round Rnd 38: 25 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, marker 11, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec,
Tip: If you think your yarn won’t allow you to tighten 36 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, marker 1, 3 sc, 1 dec, 25 sc = 110
the magic ring for Rnd 1, feel free to chain 2 sts and sts
work 6 sc in the 2nd st from the hook. Rnd 39: 24 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec,
28 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc =
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts 102 sts
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnd 40: 23 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec,
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts 24 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 23 sc =
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 24 sts 94 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 30 sts Rnd 41: 22 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec,
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 36 sts 20 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 22 sc =
Rnds 7-12: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts 86 sts
Rnd 13: (11 sc, 1 inc) х 3= 39 sts Rnd 42: 20 sc, marker 41, (1 dec, 2 sc) х 3, 1 dec, 18 sc,
Rnd 14: 1 sc in each st around = 39 sts 1 dec, (2 sc, 1 dec) х 3, marker 4, 20 sc = 78 sts
Rnd 15: (12 sc, 1 inc) х 3= 42 sts Rnd 43: 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec,
Rnd 16: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 14= 56 sts 28 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 70
Rnd 17: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 14= 70 sts sts
Rnd 18: 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc, marker 31, (5 sc, 1 inc) х 2, 32 Rnd 44: 1 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 32 sc, 1 dec,
sc, (1 inc, 5 sc) х 2, marker 3, 1 inc, 5 sc, 1 inc = 78 sts 7 sc, 2 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 62 sts
8
Rnd 45: 1 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 2 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec,
6 sc, 2 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 54 sts
Rnd 46: 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 2 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec,
7 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 46 sts
Rnd 47: 2 dec, 7 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) х 3, 1 inc, 5
sc, 1 dec, 7 sc, 2 dec = 44 sts
Rnd 48: 2 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) х 3, 1 inc, 6
sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 2 dec = 42 sts
Stuff the head firmly but do not overstuff. Keep in
mind that you will have to needle sculpt it later. Look
Rnd 49: 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 17 sc through the sts of the
at the sculpting section before stuffing the head so that
head and the sts of the mouth (the sts of the mouth’s
you can see the amount of sculpting required and don’t
Row 3), 2 dec, 4 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc = 34 sts
overstuff.
Tip: If you prefer to needle sculpt the head when the

piece is open, then go to Finishing section and do it
now. Or you can needle sculpt the piece later.
Insert the mouth and secure with sewing pins.

9
Rnd 50: 2 dec, 4 sc, 17 sc along the sts that you Rnd 52: (1 dec, 1 sc) х 6= 12 sts
worked to join the head and the mouth, 4 sc, 2 dec, 1 sc Rnd 53: 3 dec, marker 6, 3 dec = 6 sts
= 30 sts
Fasten off. Close up the opening and weave in loose

ends.
Rnd 51: 2 dec, 2 sc, 9 sc along the unworked sts of the

mouth (the sts that of the mouth’s Row 4), 2 sc, 2 dec, 1
sc = 18 sts
10
Arms
Finger (make 8 – 4 for each hand)
It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.


Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts
Rnd 7: (1 dec, 4 sc) х 3= 15 sts
Stuff the fingers. Do not stuff the fingers further.
Rnd 8: (1 dec, 3 sc) х 3= 12 sts
Rnd 9: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dec, 10 sc = 11 sts
Rnd 11: 1 dec, 9 sc = 10 sts
Rnd 12: 1 dec, 8 sc = 9 sts
Fasten off for three fingers. Do not fasten off for the
fourth finger (it will be finger #2).

Rnd 3: 4 inc, 20 sc, 3 inc = 34 sts
Assembling the right hand Rnd 8: 4 dec, 20 sc, 3 dec = 27 sts
Continue working to join the fingers to form the hand.
The marker runs up the palm of the hand. Remember
to keep the round marker straight with the shift
stitches while working the piece.
Rnd 1: 2 sc along the finger #2, 9 sc along the finger
#1, 6 sc along the finger #2, 9 sc along the finger #3, 1
sc along the finger #2 = 27 sts
11
Rnd 9: 4 sc along the hand, 4 sc through the sts of the

hand and the thumb, 19 sc along the hand = 27 sts
Rnd 11: 4 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc = 24 sts

Rnd 12: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 18 sts
Stuff the hand firmly but do not overstuff. Stuff the
areas of joining the fingers very slightly or do not stuff
at all. Continue stuffing firmly as you go. The arm
should bounce back when you bend it.
Rnd 13: 1 dec, 16 sc = 17 sts
Rnd 14: 1 dec, 15 sc = 16 sts
Rnd 15: 1 dec, 14 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 18: 1 dec, 13 sc = 14 sts
Rnd 10: 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc, 5 sc along the unworked sts of
the thumb, 16 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 26 sts
Rnd 21: 1 dec, 12 sc = 13 sts
Rnd 24: 1 dec, 11 sc = 12 sts
12
Continue working the piece alternating pink and white

color yarn. You can alternate the colors as you want or
use my order (P stands for pink, W stands for white).
WW-P-W-P-W-PPP-WWW-P-WWWW-P-W-P-W-PP -
WWW-PP-W-P-WW-P-W
It is no longer necessary to keep the marker straight. It
is only necessary to keep the marker straight from this
point if you want the color changes to be in a straight
Rnd 10: 1 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 5 sc along the unworked sts
line, and not spiralling around the arm. However, I
of the thumb, 1 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 26 sts
recommend that you do not keep the marker straight
because random color change adds much to the
Rabbit’s image.
Fasten off.
Assembling the left hand
Join the fingers to form the hand. The marker runs up
the palm of the hand. Remember to keep the round
marker straight with the shift stitches while working
Rnd 12: (1 dec, 2 sc) х 6= 18 sts
the piece.
Stuff the hand firmly but do not overstuff. Stuff the
Rnd 1: 1 sc along the finger #2, 9 sc along the finger
areas of joining the fingers very slightly or do not stuff
#1, 6 sc along the finger #2, 9 sc along the finger #3, 2
at all. Continue stuffing firmly as you go. The arm
sc along the finger #2 = 27 sts
should bounce back when you bend it.
Rnd 3: 3 inc, 20 sc, 4 inc = 34 sts
Rnd 8: 3 dec, 20 sc, 4 dec =27
Rnd 9: 19 sc along the hand, 4 sc through the sts of the
hand and the thumb, 4 sc along the hand = 27 sts
13
It is no longer necessary to keep the marker straight. It

is only necessary to keep the marker straight from this
line, and not spiralling around the arm. However, I
Rabbit’s image.
Fasten off.
Rnd 13: 16 sc, 1 dec = 17 sts

Rnd 14: 15 sc, 1 dec = 16 sts
Rnd 15: 14 sc, 1 dec = 15 sts
Rnd 18: 13 sc, 1 dec = 14 sts
Rnd 21: 12 sc, 1 dec = 13 sts Feet
Rnd 24: 11 sc, 1 dec = 12 sts
Middle toe #2 (make 2 – 1 for each foot)

Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 24 sts
Rnd 5: (7 sc, 1 inc) х 3= 27 sts
Rnd 10: (7 sc, 1 dec) х 3= 24 sts
Rnd 11: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 18 sts
Continue working the piece alternating pink and white Rnd 12: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3= 15 sts
color yarn. You can alternate the colors as you want or Fasten off. Stuff.
use my order (P stands for pink, W stands for white). Big toe #3 (make 2 – 1 for each foot)
W-P-W-PPP-WW-PP-W-P-WW-PP-W-P-WWWW-PP- with pink color yarn
WW-PP-WW-P-WW-P Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
14
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts Rnd 1: 7 sc along the toe #1, 6 sc along the toe #2, 15
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 24 sts sc along the toe #3, 9 sc along the toe #2, 8 sc along the
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 30 sts toe #1 = 45 sts
Rnd 11: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 24 sts
Rnd 12: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 18 sts
Rnd 13: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3= 15 sts
Fasten off. Stuff.
Little toe #1 (make 2 – 1 for each foot)
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 24 sts
Rnd 9: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 18 sts
Rnd 10: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3= 15 sts
Stuff. Do not fasten off. Instead continue crocheting to
join the toes to form the foot.
Rnd 2: 3 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) х 6, 1 inc, 23 sc = 52 sts
Assembling the right foot

Marker goes along the outer side of the foot (from the
side of the little toe). Remember to keep the round
the piece. Stuff firmly as you go.
Note: Make sure you start assembling the foot Rnds 3-5: 1 sc in each st around = 52 sts
starting from a little toe! Rnd 6: 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) х 4, 2 sc = 46 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 10 sc = 41
sts
15
Rnd 9: 16 sc, (1 dec, 3 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 13 sc = 38 sts

Rnd 10: 11 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc = 35
sts
Rnd 12: 15 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc = 32 sts
Rnd 13: 15 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 31 sts
Rnd 14: 14 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 30 sts
Rnd 2: 23 sc, 1 inc, (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6, 3 sc = 52 sts
Rnd 15: 14 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 29 sts
Rnd 6: 2 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 4, 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec = 46 sts
Rnd 21: 13 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc, 1 dec = 29 sts
Rnd 22: 1 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc, 1 inc, 11 sc, 1 dec, 1 sc = 28
Rnd 8: 10 sc, (1 dec, 4 sc) х 3, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec = 41
sts
sts
Rnd 9: 13 sc, 1 dec, (3 sc, 1 dec) х 2, 16 sc = 38 sts
sts
Rnd 10: 13 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc = 35
Rnd 24: 1 dec, 23 sc, 1 dec = 25 sts
sts
Rnd 26: 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec = 21 sts
Rnd 12: 16 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 32 sts
Rnd 27: 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec = 19 sts
Rnd 13: 15 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 31 sts
Rnd 28: 1 dec, 17 sc = 18 sts
Rnd 14: 15 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 30 sts
Rnd 29: (1 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 12 sts
Rnd 15: 14 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 29 sts
Rnd 30: 6 dec = 6 sts
Fasten off, leaving a tail. Close up the opening and
Rnd 21: 1 dec, 13 sc, 1 inc, 13 sc = 29 sts
weave in loose ends.
Assembling the left foot
sts
Marker goes along the outer side of the foot (from the
sts
side of the little toe). Remember to keep the round
Rnd 24: 1 dec, 23 sc, 1 dec = 25 sts
the piece. Stuff firmly as you go.
Rnd 26: 1 dec, 19 sc, 1 dec = 21 sts
Note: Make sure you start assembling the foot
Rnd 27: 1 dec, 17 sc, 1 dec = 19 sts
starting from a little toe!
Rnd 28: 17 sc, 1 dec = 18 sts
Rnd 1: 8 sc along the toe #1, 9 sc along the toe #2, 15 Rnd 29: (1 dec, 1 sc) х 6= 12 sts
sc along the toe #3, 6 sc along the toe #2, 7 sc along the Rnd 30: 6 dec = 6 sts
toe #1 = 45 sts Fasten off, leaving a tail. Close up the opening and
weave in loose ends.
16
Legs
Stuff the legs firmly but do not overstuff. The legs
should bounce back when you bend them. It is not
necessary to keep the marker straight for this part. It is
only necessary to keep the marker straight from this
line, and not spiralling around the leg. However, I
Rabbit’s image.
Left leg
Put the foot as follows. The heel faces you. The toes
face away from you. Count 2 rounds from the last
round from the heel forward. Secure the yarn.
Work 28 sc directly onto the foot to form a circle.

Rnd 5: 1 dec, 26 sc = 27 sts
Change to white color yarn.
17

Rnd 30: 1 dec, 14 sc = 15 sts
Rnd 32: 1 dec, 13 sc = 14 sts
Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 34: 1 dec, 12 sc = 13 sts
Rnd 8: 1 dec, 25 sc = 26 sts Rnd 35: 1 sc in each st around = 13 sts
Change to white color yarn. Rnd 36: 1 dec, 11 sc = 12 sts
Rnd 9: 1 sc in each st around = 26 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 11: 1 sc in each st around = 25 sts Change to white color yarn.
Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 38: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 12: 1 dec, 23 sc = 24 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 39: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to white color yarn. Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 14: 1 dec, 22 sc = 23 sts Rnds 40-42: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to pink color yarn. Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 15: 1 sc in each st around = 23 sts Rnds 43-45: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to pink color yarn. Rnds 48-50: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 28: 1 dec, 15 sc = 16 sts Change to white color yarn.
18

Rnd 68: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 14 sts
Rnd 69: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 16 sts
Rnd 70: (7 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 18 sts Change to white color yarn.
Fasten off. Rnd 4: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts
Right leg Rnd 5: 1 dec, 26 sc = 27 sts
with pink color yarn Rnd 6: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts
Put the foot as follows. The heel faces you. The toes
face away from you. Count 2 rounds from the last
round from the heel forward. Secure the yarn.
Work 28 sc directly onto the foot to form a circle.

Rnd 8: 1 dec, 25 sc = 26 sts
Rnd 10: 1 dec, 24 sc = 25 sts
Rnd 12: 1 dec, 23 sc = 24 sts
Rnd 14: 1 dec, 22 sc = 23 sts
19

Change to pink color yarn. Change to white color yarn.
Change to white color yarn. Rnd 53: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Rnd 26: 1 dec, 16 sc = 17 sts Change to white color yarn.
Change to white color yarn. Rnds 60-62: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts
Change to white color yarn. Rnd 68: (5 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 14 sts
Rnd 33: 1 sc in each st around = 14 sts Rnd 69: (6 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 16 sts
Rnd 34: 1 dec, 12 sc = 13 sts Rnd 70: (7 sc, 1 inc) х 2= 18 sts
Rnd 35: 1 sc in each st around = 13 sts Do not fasten off but continue working.
Rnd 36: 1 dec, 11 sc = 12 sts
20
required. If you want the feet to point to the sides –

start working Round 1 from this point.
If you want the feet to point forward, you will have to
work a few more shift stitches to bring the working
loop to the inner thigh.
Work as many sc as you need to reach the position of
the last st needed and start working the body.
Continue crocheting using the working yarn of the
right leg.
Rnd 1: ch 20, join to the left leg so that the legs sit
symmetrically and work along the left leg: 8 sc, 2 inc, 8
sc, 20 sc back along the chain that joins the legs, now
work along the right leg: 8 sc, 2 inc, 8 sc = 80 sts
Body
Marker will run up the center of the back. Stuff firmly
but do not overstuff as you go. Remember to keep the
round marker straight with the shift stitches while
working the piece.
If you have kept the round marker straight while

crocheting the legs, the last stitch on Round 70 should
be positioned directly above the heel. If the marker has
strayed off course, or you didn’t keep it straight, then
shift stitches will be required to bring the working loop
to this point (above the heel). Work as many stitches as
21
Work as many shift sts as you need to reach the center Change to pink color yarn.
of the back of the body and move the round marker. I Rnd 24: 10 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc = 42 sts
worked 10 sc. Rnd 25: 10 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc = 40 sts
Rnds 2-6: 1 sc in each st around = 80 sts Rnds 30-31: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts
Change to white color yarn. Rnd 32: 8 sc, 1 dec, 16 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 34 sts
Change to white color yarn. Rnd 35: 8 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc = 32 sts
Rnd 9-11: 1 sc in each st around = 80 sts Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 12: 10 sc, (1 dec, 7 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 20 sc, (1 dec, 7 Change to pink color yarn.
sc) х 2, 1 dec, 10 sc = 74 sts Rnds 40-41: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts
Rnd 13: 10 sc, (1 dec, 6 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 18 sc, (1 dec, 6 Change to white color yarn.
sc) х 2, 1 dec, 10 sc = 68 sts Rnd 42: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts
Rnd 14: 9 sc, (1 dec, 5 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 18 sc, (1 dec, 5 sc) Change to pink color yarn.
х 2, 1 dec, 9 sc = 62 sts Rnd 43: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts
Rnd 15: 15 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec, 15 sc = 60 sts Rnd 44: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts
Rnd 16: 14 sc, 1 dec, 28 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 58 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 17: 14 sc, 1 dec, 26 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc = 56 sts Change to white color yarn.
Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 51: 7 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 30 sts
Rnd 19: 13 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec, 13 sc = 52 sts Rnds 52-53: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 20: 12 sc, 1 dec, 24 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc = 50 sts Rnds 54-55: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnd 22: 11 sc, 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc = 46 sts Rnd 56: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts

22
Join arms with their inner sides facing the body with
the thumb facing forward.
Rnd 57: 4 sc, 5 sc through the sts of the body and the
1st arm, 12 sc, 5 sc through the sts of the body and the
2nd arm, 4 sc = 30 sts
Rnd 58: 4 sc along the body, 7 sc along the unworked

sts of the arm, 12 sc along the body, 7 sc along the
unworked sts of the arm, 4 sc along the body = 34 sts
23

Rnd 61: 2 sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc, 1 dec, 8 sc, 1 dec, 2
sc, 1 dec, 3 sc, 1 dec, 2 sc = 28 sts
Rnd 62: 2 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc, 1 dec, 2
sc = 24 sts
Rnd 63: 2 sc, 1 dec, (4 sc, 1 dec) х 3, 2 sc = 20 sts
Fold the last few rounds of the neck to the inside, so
that the edge of the fold is at round 70. If you want to
make the neck firmer you can insert a piece of thick
cloth inside the folded part.
Rnd 74: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 4= 24 sts
Rnd 75: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 30 sts
Fasten off.
24

Rnd 21-22: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Ears Change to pink color yarn.
Left ear Rnd 27: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts
Marker goes along the back. Remember to keep the Change to white color yarn.
round marker straight with the shift stitches while Rnd 28: 6 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 26 sts
working the piece. Do not stuff. Rnd 29: 1 sc in each st around = 26 sts
with pink color yarn Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnds 36-37: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 4: (2 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 24 sts Rnds 38-40: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 30 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 36 sts Rnd 41: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnds 7-8: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 9-10: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts Change to pink color yarn.
Rnd 13-14: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts Change to white color yarn.
Rnds 15-17: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts Change to pink color yarn.
25

Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 6: (4 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 36 sts
Change to white color yarn. Change to pink color yarn.
Rnds 59-63: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 12: 1 sc in each st around = 36 sts
Rnds 69-70: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 18: 5 sc, 1 dec, 22 sc, 1 dec, 5 sc = 34 sts
Rnd 71: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 19: 10 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc, 1 dec, 10 sc = 32 sts
Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 20: 7 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 7 sc = 30 sts
Rnds 73-78: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 23: 1 sc in each st around = 30 sts
Rnds 79-81: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 24: 4 sc, 1 dec, 18 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc = 28 sts
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Rnds 25-26: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts
Right ear Rnd 27: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts
Marker goes along the back. Remember to keep the Change to pink color yarn.
round marker straight with the shift stitches while Rnd 28: 6 sc, 1 dec, 12 sc, 1 dec, 6 sc = 26 sts
working the piece. Do not stuff. Rnd 29: 1 sc in each st around = 26 sts
with white color yarn Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts Change to white color yarn.
Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts Rnds 36-37: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts
Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts Change to pink color yarn.
26
Change to pink color yarn. Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing.
Rnd 55: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Tail
Change to white color yarn. with white color yarn
Rnd 56: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts It is not necessary to keep the marker straight for this
Change to pink color yarn. piece. It is only necessary to keep the marker straight if
Rnd 57: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts you want the color changes to be in a straight line, and
Change to white color yarn. not spiraling around the tail.
Rnds 64-65: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts
Change to pink color yarn. Rnd 2: 6 inc = 12 sts
Rnds 66-68: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 3: (1 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 18 sts
Rnds 69-70: 1 sc in each st around = 24 sts Rnd 5: (3 sc, 1 inc) х 6= 30 sts
27
Rnds 10-11: 1 sc in each st around = 42 sts The amount

Change to pink color yarn. Point for of sts to the
Rnd 12: 1 sc in each st around = 42 sts needle Round # left or to the
Change to white color yarn. sculpting right of the
Rnd 13: 1 sc in each st around = 42 sts marker
Rnd 14: (5 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 36 sts 1 38 29
Rnd 15: (4 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 30 sts 2 22 24
Change to pink color yarn. 3 18 9
Rnd 16: (3 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 24 sts 4 42 20
Rnd 17: (2 sc, 1 dec) х 6= 18 sts 5 23 0
Fasten off, leaving a tail for sewing. Stuff the piece the middle of
6 53
slightly. the round
the middle of
neck#1 30
the round
the middle of
neck #2 24
the round
Count the required amount of sts to the left or to the
right of the marker at the row stated in the chart above
Finishing and mark this place with a piece of contrasting color
Needle sculpting yarn or a stitch marker. If the amount of sts is zero,
Pull up the yarn while needle sculpting. then you should mark the point on the line of the
If you haven’t marked the points for needle sculpting round marker. The markers need to be placed at the
for some reason while crocheting the head, here are the required distance from the marker on both sides – with
points you should mark now: the exception of those placed on the marker or at the
center back of the head.
Needle sculpt the muzzle.
Step 1: Secure thread at point 1, insert at point 1, exit
at point 2. Re-insert 1 stitch away to exit at point 1, re-
insert 1 stitch away, and exit at point 2. Tighten firmly,
so that points 1 and 2 come together. Secure, but do not
fasten off thread.
28
Step 4:
Step 2:
Insert needle at point 41, exit at point 31, re-insert 1
Insert needle at point 3, exit at point 4, re-insert 1
stitch away, exit at point 41, re-insert 1 stitch away and
stitch away and exit at point 3, re-insert at 1 stitch away
exit at point 31.
and exit at point 4. Tighten and secure. Do not fasten
Step 5:
off.
Insert needle at point 21, taking thread over the top of
Step 3:
the cheek, exit at point 11, re-insert at point 11 1 stitch
With thread going under the muzzle, take needle to
away, exit at point 21, re-insert at point 21 1 stitch away
point 41 and insert. Exit again 1 stitch away, tighten and
and exit at point 11. Tighten firmly, as for step 1, secure,
secure. Do not fasten off.
fasten off.
Step 6:
Sculpt the muzzle to divide it into two.
Thread long needle with strong thread as before.
Secure thread at 5. Bring needle and thread down over
the outside of the muzzle and insert at 6, then exit
again at 5. Tighten firmly, then repeat. Tighten and
secure. Fasten off.
29
Teeth
Sew the teeth onto the head. I did it 8 rounds up from
the needle sculpting 4-41.
30
Tail
Sew the tail onto the back part of the body. I did it
between Rnds 8 and 14.
Eyes-Nose
Sew the eyes onto the head. The color change of the
eyes should level with the top edge of the cheeks.
Sew the nose onto the head slightly pressing the eyes.
The nose should be as close to the eyes as possible and
form a single eye-nose piece.
31
Neck-head
Find the right position for the head using sewing pins
and neck markers (I did it between Rnds 24 and 30).
Sew the head onto the body adding stuffing before
making the final stitches. The neck should be stuffed
very firmly.
Secure strong thread to the front of the neck, right at

the seam that joins it to the head.
32
Insert needle at this point, and exit just beneath the

front of the nose, at the sculpting line for the muzzle.
The chin should align with the shoulders when viewed

from the side.
Insert needle 4-5 stitches away – down the sculpting

line, and go back to your starting point at the neck. Pull
up the yarn. The neck should go into the head quite
deeply. Repeat the process several times if needed. Ears
Fold each ear in half and put them together. Sew them
throughout to join and secure the yarn.
33
Your rabbit is ready!
Try the ears onto the head to find the right position and
secure with sewing pins. Sew the ears onto the head
around the perimeter.
34
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35
Contacts: I’d love to see the results of your hard work! Please share photos of your finished
creation directly on our Facebook page, add project to the pattern on Ravelry and Craftsy, email me,
and/or find me on other sites. Just search “LittleOwlsHut”.
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Copyright notes: ©2016 LittleOwlsHut. Finished products created with this pattern
may be used for commercial sale, provided you comply with the following:
• The items must be 100% handmade by you - the purchaser of the pattern (no production-line
allowed). Every person who uses my patterns to make items for sale must have their own copy
of the pattern.
• Any items for sale must state in the item description that they are based on ‘LittleOwlsHut’
pattern, include the name of the designer and also include a link to my website
(www.LittleOwlsHut.com)
• Any items you sell based on my patterns must feature only your own photographs of the item
you have made to sell. You do not have permission to use my photographs to help sell your
work.
Text and images Copyright ©2016 by LittleOwlsHut, all rights reserved.

No pattern may be reproduced or distributed — mechanically, electronically, or by any other means,
including photocopying, without written permission. I work very hard to design and write these
patterns. Thank you so much for your understanding, and happy crocheting!
Warning: Because your finished project may have small parts, please be extremely cautious if
you decide to give it to a child. Also, if you decide to sell your finished project, remember to include
warning for people purchasing it.
36

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1

Skill level: Experienced

I use USA terminology for my

www.LittleOwlsHut.com Any questions or comments: info@LittleOwlsHut.com

LittleOwlsHut www.LittleOwlsHut.com Crochet pattern 2016

ü Crochet hook. I used 2.0 mm (approximately US steel hook 1, Abbreviations

When making toys, you should use

USA/UK terminology comparison chart. Skill levels

Tip (shift stitch)

Row 4: 9 sc across the row ends = 9 sts

Fasten off. It is not necessary to keep the marker straight.

Tip: If you think your yarn won’t allow you to tighten

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Tip: If you think your yarn won’t allow you to tighten

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Now join both eyes as follows. Secure pink color yarn

Rnds 2-3: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

Attach the ready-made eyes. Glue them if needed.

Nose remove the marker until the toy is finished. Remember

shift stitches while working the piece.

with pink color yarn

Tip: If you prefer to needle sculpt the head when the

Insert the mouth and secure with sewing pins.

Fasten off. Close up the opening and weave in loose

Rnd 51: 2 dec, 2 sc, 9 sc along the unworked sts of the

Tip: If you think your yarn won’t allow you to tighten

Rnd 1: 6 sc in magic ring = 6 sts

Rnd 2: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts

Rnd 9: 4 sc along the hand, 4 sc through the sts of the

Rnd 11: 4 sc, 1 dec, 14 sc, 1 dec, 4 sc = 24 sts

Continue working the piece alternating pink and white

It is no longer necessary to keep the marker straight. It

Rnd 13: 16 sc, 1 dec = 17 sts

Middle toe #2 (make 2 – 1 for each foot)

Rnd 2: 3 sc, (1 inc, 2 sc) х 6, 1 inc, 23 sc = 52 sts

Assembling the right foot

Rnd 9: 16 sc, (1 dec, 3 sc) х 2, 1 dec, 13 sc = 38 sts

Rnds 1-4: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts

Change to white color yarn.

Rnds 63-65: 1 sc in each st around = 12 sts

Fasten off. Rnd 4: 1 sc in each st around = 28 sts

Right leg Rnd 5: 1 dec, 26 sc = 27 sts

with pink color yarn Rnd 6: 1 sc in each st around = 27 sts

Change to pink color yarn.

Change to white color yarn. Change to white color yarn.

required. If you want the feet to point to the sides –

If you have kept the round marker straight while

Rnd 7: 1 sc in each st around = 80 sts Rnd 33: 1 sc in each st around = 34 sts

Change to pink color yarn. Change to pink color yarn.

Rnd 8: 1 sc in each st around = 80 sts Rnd 34: 1 sc in each st around = 34 sts

Rnd 9-11: 1 sc in each st around = 80 sts Change to white color yarn.

Change to pink color yarn. Rnds 36-39: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

sc) х 2, 1 dec, 10 sc = 74 sts Rnds 40-41: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

sc) х 2, 1 dec, 10 sc = 68 sts Rnd 42: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

х 2, 1 dec, 9 sc = 62 sts Rnd 43: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

Change to white color yarn. Change to white color yarn.

Change to pink color yarn. Rnds 45-46: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

Change to white color yarn. Rnds 47-50: 1 sc in each st around = 32 sts

Change to white color yarn. Change to white color yarn.

Rnd 23: 11 sc, 1 dec, 20 sc, 1 dec, 11 sc = 44 sts