Hampi Yatra
Hampi Yatra
Hampi Yatra
Kishkinda Ksetra
Hampi is a village in northern Karnataka and is identified with the historical Kishkinda, the
Vanara (monkey) kingdom mentioned in the Ramayana. At Hampi there are many
important sites related to Ramayana, namely Shabari’s cave and sacred Pampa Sarovar,
where Shabari, a great devotee of Lord Ramacandra lived; Anjaneya Hill which is the
Birthplace of Hanuman Ji; Yantrodharak Anjaneya Temple where Hanuman first saw Lord
Rama and His brother Laxmana; Rsyamuka hill were Sugriva took shelter and lived for
several years when banished by his elder brother Vali from his kingdom Kishkhinda;
Maalyavant Raghunatha Swamy Temple where Lord Rama and Laxmana stayed for 4
months during the rainy season after Sugriva had been coronated on the throne; Kodanda
Rama Temple where Sugriva was crowned as the King of Kishkhinda; Sugriva’s cave where
Sugriva hid the jewels of mother Sita while she was been taken away by Ravana, and
other places. Lord Caitanya Mahaprabhu visited Hampi during His South India tour as
mentioned in Sri Caitanya Caritamrta Madhya-lila 9.316. Lord Nityananda also visited here
during His travels.
The name of this place is derived from Pampa, which is the old name of the Tungabhadra
River on whose banks the city is built. Located within the ruins of Vijayanagara, the former
capital of the Krishnadeva Raya’s Vijayanagara Empire, this place predates the city of
Vijayanagara and continues to be an important religious center. Saint Vidyaranya
established the seat of Vijayanagara Empire in 1336 A.D, with the help of his devotee
disciples Harihara and Bukka. The empire later became famous for its support towards
reconstruction of temples throughout India. It also became renowned for re-establishment
of Indian culture, its support for music, art and literature. With the prime purpose of
caring for the people and their welfare, this empire stretched physically covering
Karnataka, Andhra and Maharashtra and became a by-word for golden rule. By 1500 CE,
Hampi-Vijayanagara was the world's second-largest medieval-era city after Beijing, and
India's richest at that time, attracting traders from Persia and Portugal. Hampi formed one
of the core areas of the capital of the Vijayanagara Empire from 1336 to 1565, when it
was finally laid siege to by the Deccan Muslim confederacy. The ruins are classified as
UNESCO World Heritage Site, listed as the Group of Monuments at Hampi.
Hampi is 13 km from the town of Hospet, which has nice accommodations available and
has a railway station. It is in Bellary district and is 376 km from Bangalore, 385 km from
Hyderabad and 266 km from Belgaum.
1. Shabari’s Cave
Shabari’s Cave is the place where the great tribal devotee of Lord Ramacandra, Shabari
lived and perform her tapasya (austerities). There is actual spot where Lord Ramacandra
and Laxmana came and sat, and partook ber (berries) picked by her. Shabari’s cave is
next to sacred Pampa Sarovar.
Shabari’s Pastime: Shabari was a hunter's daughter and belong to the Nishadha tribal
community. The night before her marriage, she saw that thousands of goats and sheep
were brought by her father, which were to be sacrificed for the marriage dinner. Moved by
compassion, during the early hours of the morning, she left her home and ran away in
search of a spiritual master. Many yogis and gurus rejected her since she was of low caste.
Finally, after days of traveling, she met great Sage Matanga Rsi at the foot of the
mountain Rsyamuka. She accepted him as guru, serving him with devotion. During the
last days of sage Matanga, Shabari served him with great attention and care. Pleased with
her service, Matanga Rsi blessed her that one day certainly Lord Ramacandra along with
His bother Laxmana will come to meet her.
Many years passed by (as per the life span of the Treyta yuga) and Shabari had become
an old woman. She continued to live in the same ashram awaiting Lord Rama. Always
meditating on her guru's words, Shabari waited and waited for the arrival of Lord Rama.
Every day, although it was difficult for her to walk, due to old age and infirmity, Shabari
would still go out of her ashram early morning and pick ber fruits for Lord Rama. She
would pluck a fruit, first taste it, and if it was sweet she would put it in her basket and
discard the bitter ones. She wanted to give the good and sweet fruits to Lord Rama. The
thought never came into her mind that she should not taste the fruits before they were
offered to a deity. Thus collecting a few fruits, Shabari went back to her ashram and
eagerly anticipated Lord Rama's arrival.
Meanwhile, after mother Sita was kidnapped by Ravana, Lord Rama and Laxmana, in
separation of Sita, had traversed hundreds of miles and eventually came upon an
enormous monster named Kabandha. Kabandha explained to Them that close to Pampa
Sarovara, Shabari was waiting for Them, to serve Them.
Arrival of Lord Rama: Then Rama and Laxmana came to Pampa Sarovara. There, They saw
some caves on the banks of the lake and a little straw hut. There, sitting on the ground on
a small kusha grass mat was an old emaciated lady. That lady, was indeed, Shabari. Even
though hundreds of other yogis were waiting to receive Lord Rama in their ashrams, Lord
Rama went only to Shabari's ashram because of her sincere devotion. She was wearing
just a bark of tress, her hair was matted, she was constantly with tears in her eyes
chanting the holy names of Lord Rama. When she saw Rama and Laxmana, she
immediately recognized Them, because by the grace of her guru, she was meditating on
Rama coming for many, many years with such anticipation, eagerness. Srila Rupa
Gosvami, tells that the price of Krishna consciousness is this eagerness. And to cultivate
this feeling of separation makes us very, very eager. Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu.
yugayitam nimesena chaksusa pravrsayitam
sunyaitam jagat sarvam govinda-virahena me
Feeling your separation Govinda, the whole world is like a dreary void and each moment is
like a yuga. But in that eagerness of separation, how much intensely he was chanting the
holy names of the Lord, how intensely he was eager to serve the Lord! Shabari had such
faith in her guru. She knew that Rama would come. Years and years and years passed and
she sat there just doing her meditation and doing her seva and now the fruit of all of her
prayers, of all of her sadhana, had manifested. She had a chance to personally serve the
Supreme Personality of Godhead. After offering her dandavat pranam, she offered him a
sitting place and offered him prayers and gathered some of the forest fruits to satisfy
Rama and Laxmana.
On seeing her most beloved Lord Ramacandra, Shabari became ecstatic and said, "There
were so many exalted yogis waiting for your darshan, but you came to this unworthy
devotee. This clearly shows that you will neither see whether a devotee lives in a palace or
humble hut, whether he is erudite or ignorant neither see caste nor colour. You will only
see the true Bhakti. I do not have anything to offer other than my heart, but here are
some berry fruits. May it please you, my Lord."
Saying so, Shabari offered the fruits she had meticulously collected for Lord Rama. When
Rama was tasting them, Laxmana raised the concern that Shabari had already tasted
them and therefore unworthy of eating. To this Lord Rama said, “I have tasted many types
of food, but nothing equals these ber fruits offered with such devotion. You taste them,
then alone will you know. Whomsoever offers a fruit, leaf, flower or some water with love,
I partake it with great joy." So in her enthusiasm to serve Rama, she will take each little
fruit and take a bite of that and if it was bitter, she would put it aside for her to eat later
and if it was sweet she took it out of her mouth and present it to Rama. Now according to
the standards of deity worship, this is very offensive, but because of her love Lord
Ramacandra accepted the saliva of her mouth as the sweetest part of the fruit. Lord
Krishna tells in Bhagavad-Gita chapter 9 verse 26, “Fruit, flower, water, even a leaf, if it’s
offered with love I will accept it.” It is the love that makes everything sweet for Krishna.
Shabari was so poor, she did not have nice plates, she didn’t have nice house, she didn’t
have nice food, but she had love.
Then Lord Rama narrated to her the incident of Sita’s kidnapping. Shabari said, “Across
this Pampa Sarovar is Rishyamukha Mountain where Sugriva lives. Sugriva is one of the
chiefs of the monkeys. He has been exiled from his kingdom and his wife Ruma has been
abducted and is being held captive by his brother Bali. No one in the world can understand
what Sugriva is going through better than you, and no one in the world can understand
what you are going through better than Sugriva. If you help him to get his wife and his
kingdom back, then he will search the entire earth over and over again, relentlessly, until
he finds Sita and brings her back. And his minister Hanuman is the most empowered
transcendental person who can do anything.”
Touched by her pure Bhakti, Lord Rama and Laxmana bowed down at her feet. Rama
wanted to see the ashram of Matanga Rsi. So Shabari gave him a tour. Laxmana and
Rama were walking beside her and she showed them that this is where they performed
their yajnas - because in Tretayuga yajna was the yuga dharma - and it was still burning
even though over a decade had passed since they left. She said, “These are the flowers
that they made into the garlands to decorate their beloved Lord.” And the garlands were
still fresh and fragrant. She said, “All the sages they just wore tree barks and here is the
place where after washing their clothes they would dry them,” and there were tree bark
hanging and they were still wet from being washed. Because of their love and their
devotion to Rama, everything was still fresh as it was years and years before when they
left it, just so that Rama could see it. Lord Rama and Laxmana were so happy by the
simplicity of Shabari.
Srila Bhaktisiddhanta Sarasvati Thakur tells that the first principle of true devotional
service or bhakti is simplicity. Simplicity means without duplicity. It means to have no
ulterior motives. It means to really deeply be satisfied with what’s really important - the
opportunity to serve. For a devotee just the chance to serve, whether we have millions or
billions of dollars, or whether we are living on a piece of straw on the bank of a lake
wearing tree bark, it really doesn’t make much difference.
That value in life is simplicity. That makes us so dear to Krishna. King Prataprudra, even
though he was the king of the entire domain of Orissa, he had a simple heart. He was
happy serving Lord Caitanya whether he was sweeping the street or ruling over armies
and treasuries. And it was the simplicity of his heart that made him so dear. Sri Caitanya
Mahaprabhu gave us this message.
Lord Rama told Shabari, “You have satisfied me by the simplicity of your love and
devotion. Now you can go and join your guru again and all of your god brothers and god
sisters.” By his grace Shabari understood that her life was perfect and she in meditation,
she sat in the sacred fire. Suddenly she was consumed by the fire, but she had such faith
that a moment later she had a spiritual body and she came out from flames. She was no
longer emaciated with matted hair. She had a heavenly celestial body with such beauty,
gowned with such elegance. And then with the permission of Rama and Laxmana she
returned to join her guru in the loving service of the Lord, which was her only desire.
When Rama came to meet Shabari, her joy was not in seeing Rama; her joy was in
serving Rama. ‘Don’t try to see Krishna; try to serve Krishna so that he is happy to see
you.’ Yes, she was seeing the Supreme Absolute Truth, the personality of Godhead face to
face, but her joy was in serving him and in pleasing him.
Surroundings on the way near Shabari’s Cave
Exact spot where Lord Ramacandra sat and partook the berries (ber) offered by
Shabari. This spot is marked by the Lotus Feet of Lord Ramacandra at Shabari’s
Cave
Shabari offering berries (ber) to Lord Ramacandra
Ancient temple with the lotus feet of Lord Ramacandra and Laxmana at Shabari’s
Cave
Lotus feet of Lord Ramacandra and Laxmana
2. Pampa Sarovar
Pampa Sarovar, is one of the five sacred sarovars, or lakes, located to the south of the
Tungabhadra River. Lord Caitanya and Lord Nityananda Prabhu had visited Pampa sarovar
during Their travels. Another one of them is Man Sarovar which is in China (Tibet). Pampa
Sarovar is just next to Shabari’s cave. Shabari used to take water from her daily needs
from this Sarovar. Pampa Sarovar is regarded as the place where Pampa, a form of
Parvati, performed penance to show her devotion to Siva. There is a small Pampa Ambika
temple next to the kunda.
This Sarovar finds a mention in Ramayana. Pampa Sarovar is mentioned as the place
where Shabari, a disciple of the Rsi Matanga, directed Lord Rama as He journeyed
southwards on His quest to redeem Sita. Caitanya Caritamrta Madhya-lila 9.316 states
that Lord Caitanya Mahaprabhu came to Pampa sarovar during His South India tour -
“Eventually Sri Caitanya Mahaprabhu arrived at a lake known as Pampa, where He took
His bath.” Lord Nityananda also visited this place during His travels. Sri Vrindavana Dasa
Thakura mentions in Sri Caitanya Bhagavata Adi Lila chapter 9: "Thereafter Sri Nityananda
went to Gomati and bathed in the waters of Gandaki and Sona. He climbed the Mahendra
Hill where He offered obeisances to Lord Parasurama. From there He travelled to
Haridvara, the source of Mother Ganga. He visited Pampa, Bhima, Godavari, Benva and in
the Bipasa (or Vyasa) river He remained submerged in the water for a while." Pampa
sarovar is also famous for the Pushti Marg Vaishnavas. Here Srimad Vallabhacahrya had
performed Srimad-Bhagavatam katha in the 16th century.
Pampa Sarovar
This chanting of Krishna’s names, Rama’s names wakes us up, because in this age of kali
people are so soundly sleeping. The loud chanting of the holy name is required. Hanuman
lives forever to give protection, inspiration and empowerment wherever devotees sincerely
chant the Lord’s holy names, because he knows there is nothing that gives pleasure to the
Lord greater than being the servant of the servant of the servants; that is what he lived
for.
At the top of the Anjaneya hill is temple dedicated to Hanuman. He was born to Anjana.
Thus Hanuman is also known as Anjaneya and his birthplace as Anjaneyadri (Anjaneya’s
hill). On the way up there is one place called kesari tirtha, the cave where Hanuman’s
father Kesari, lived. The deity of Hanuman is carved on the rock. There is also a small
shrine for Lord Rama and Sita inside the temple. The hill has 555 steps to climb up to the
temple and it takes approx. 7-10 mins to climb. One can see Anjaneya hill from the Hampi
side of the river as one trek along the Kampa Bhups’s (the riverside trek) path. In
Anegundi is the old Raghunatha temple where worship still continues. In sanctum there is
small Vishnu deity about 3 feet long reclining on Sesanaga. In the back of the temple on
the right side is a separate shrine to Lakshmi. Not far from the temple is the samadhi of
Sripad Madhvacarya’s disciple Narahari Tirtha.
6. Sugriva’s Cave
Sugriva’s Cave is the place where Sugriva hid the jewels dropped by Sita, when the
demon Ravana was taking Her. This is a naturally formed cave by huge boulders one
leaning over the other. This is located almost on the river shore close to Sri Kodanda Rama
temple. The colored pattern at the rock in locale parlance is called Sita Konda. A number
of carved footprints can be seen on the floor of this flat surface. This depicts the footprints
of Lord Ramacandra and Laxmana. Near the Cave at the riverside Sugriva met Lord Rama
and Lakshmana when they came here in search of goddess Sita.
Sugriva’s Cave
Sugriva’s Cave
Sugriva’s Cave - exact spot where Sugriva hid the jewels dropped by Sita, when
Ravana was taking Her
Full of surprise, Sri Vyasa Tirtha finally decided to bind the image of Hanuman in a yantra.
A small temple was built there and hence the temple has the name Yantrodharak
Anjaneya. In the core of the yantra is the deity of Hanuman in padmasana position. This is
probably the only temple of Hanuman in a sitting position. The yantra here is a form of
binding which looks like a six-cornered star. The star is encircled in a circle with flames
going outwards giving it the drawing look of a sun. A closed, benzene-like ring of 12
monkeys holding each other’s tails can also be found around the star and the sun which
forms the outermost structure of the yantra.
8. Rsyamuka Hill
Rsyamuka hill were Sugriva took shelter and lived for several years when banished by
his elder brother Vali from his kingdom Kishkinda. Due to Rishi Matanga’s curse on Vali
that he cannot enter the Rsyamuka hill, this was the only place on the earth which was
free from the coming of Vali. When Vali was chasing Sugriva, being very tired and
distressed by Vali, Sugriva remembered the curse of Rsi Matanga for Vali, and he took
shelter here.
Rsyamuka Hills
9. Matanga Hill
Matanga Hill, the name comes after the great sage Matanga who used to live on this hill
in Treta Yuga, the period of Ramayana. Sage Matanga was a great devotee. He was the
spiritual master of Shabari. During the last days of sage Matanga, Shabari served him with
great attention and care. Pleased with her service, sage Matanga blessed her that one day
Lord Ramacandra along with His bother Laxmana will come to meet her. This is also the
place where Sugriva benefited from the magical protection of the sage Matanga who had
placed a curse of death on Vali, if he dared to enter Rsyamuka Hill, which is close by. A
beautiful view of Achyuta Raya temple can be seen from on top of this hill.
Matanga Hill
The carving on this temple gives an insight into the architectural splendour achieved by
the artisans of Vijayanagar Empire. The temple consists of 56 musical pillars. When tapped
gently, these pillars produce musical sounds. These pillars known as musical pillars or Sa-
Re-Ga-Ma pillars, after the sapta-svaras of Indian classical music. The British wanted to
check the reason behind this wonder and so they cut two pillars to check if anything was
there inside the pillars that were producing the sound. They found nothing but hollow
pillars. Even today we can see those pillars cut by the British. Construction of this temple
started during the reign of King Krishnadeva Raya in the year 1513 AD. The project was so
colossal that the additions continued for almost 5 decades until the Empire fell down in the
year 1565 AD and was never completed.
Hemakuta Hill
16. Sri Virupaksha Temple
Known as the Pampapathi temple, it is a temple related to Lord Siva, situated in the Hampi
Bazaar. Temple is located at the foot of Hemakuta hill and is the core of the village of
Hampi. It predates the founding of the Vijayanagar Empire. The temple has a 160 foot
(49m) high tower at its entrance. Apart from Lord Siva, the temple complex also contains
shrines of the goddesses Bhuvaneshwari and Pampa. What was once a small shrine, in
course of time, developed into a large complex under the Vijayanagar Empire.
His Holiness Radhanath Swami Maharaj during Sri Hampi Dhama Yatra in 2014
Hospet Railway station
Directions to reach Hampi: Hampi is 13 km from the town of Hospet, which has nice
accommodations available and has a railway station. It is in Bellary district and is 376 km
from Bangalore, 385 km from Hyderabad and 266 km from Belgaum.