National Institute of Fashion Technology

Department of Fashion Technology

Mid-term Assignment
Fabric Science for apparel-III
(Finishing Processes)

Submitted by: -
Chenna. Pavan Kumar (BFT/22/498)
Krity Priya (BFT/22/456)

Under the guidance of: -

Ms. T. Srivani

National Institute of Fashion Technology

 Acknowledgement

We would like to express our special thanks of gratitude to T. Srivani ma’am who gave us the
golden opportunity to do this wonderful project on the topic Calendering, which also helped
in doing a lot of Research and came to know about so many new things. We want to
acknowledge the invaluable input, expertise and support of our ma’am, without whom this
document would not have come to fruition.

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Table of Contents Page no.
What is textile finishing……………………………………………………………………….3
• Chemical finishing…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………4
• Mechanical finishing……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..4

Calendering………………………………………………………………………………………..5

• Objects of calendaring………………………………………………………………………………………………………….5
• Parameters of calendaring……………………………………………………………………………………………………7
• Effects of calendaring……………………………………………………………………………………………………………7

Types of calender machines………………………………………………………………..8

• Ordinary or Swizzing calender………………………………………………………………………………………………8

• Chasing calender………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….9
• Friction calender…………………………………………………………………………………………………………………10
• Embossing calender…………………………………………………………………………………………………………….11
• Schreiner calender………………………………………………………………………………………………………………13
• Felt calender……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….14
• Nipco-flex calender……………………………………………………………………………………………………………..15
• Moire calender……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………16
• Cire calender……………………………………………………………………………………………………………………….17

Samples……………………………………………………………………………………….……18

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What is Textile Finishing?

Textile Finishing is a process used in manufacturing of fiber, fabric, or clothing. In order to

impart the required functional properties to the fiber or fabric, it is customary to subject the
material to different type of physical and chemical treatments.

Types textile finishing:

Finishing comprises final process in the textile processing sequence to improve the
appearance, hand-feel or other aesthetics of the textiles or to add any extra functionality such
as water repellency or flame retardancy, etc. Broadly it can be classified into following classes,
which are used individually or in combination with each other.

Textile finishing

Mechanical finishing Chemical finishing

Calendaring Flame retardants

Raising Antistatic activity

Singeing Water resistant

Embossing Photo protective

Brushing softener

Sanforising Antimicrobial

Decatising

Heat setting

Classification of textile finishing

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There are two broad categories of finishing:

1. Chemical finishing
2. Mechanical finishing

1.Chemicalfinishing
The finishes applied by means of chemicals of different origins, a fabric can receive properties
otherwise impossible to obtain with mechanical means. Commonly used chemical
finishes include softening, stiffening / hand-building, easy care / wrinkle-recovery / durable-
press, water / oil repellent, soil repellent, soil release, flame retardant, anti-slip, anti-static, anti-
pilling, anti-microbial, elastomeric, UV protection, insect resistant / moth protection, bio-
polishing, fragrance, moisture management, temperature adaptability, and finishes to improve
color fastness of the dyed or printed fabrics.

2.Mechanical finishing

Involving the application of physical principles such as friction, temperature, pressure, tension
and many others. Commonly used mechanical finishes include calendaring, compressive
shrinkage / Sanforizing, raising, emerizing / sueding / peaching, shearing / cropping.

Figure 1: Calendering Machine

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CALENDERING
The word “calender” itself is a derivation of the word kylindros, the Greek word that is also
the source of the word “cylinder”
Calendering is a process of passing cloth between two or more rollers (or “calenders”), usually
under carefully controlled time, heat and pressure, to produce a variety of surface textures or
effects in fabric such as compact, smooth, flat and glazed.
A calender is a machine consisting of two or more massive rolls which are compressed by
CNM
means of hydraulic cylinder applying pressure at the journals. One roll is considered the pattern
roll and is responsible for the finished appearance of the fabric while the other roll is called a
bowl and serves as the pressure back up for the pattern roll and also serves to transport the
fabric through the machine. There are many types of calenders, each designed to impart specific
effects to cloth.

Figure 2: Calendering Machine

Objects of calendering:
• To upgrade the fabric handle and to impart a smooth silky touch to the fabric.
• To compress the fabric and reduce its thickness.
• To improve the opacity of the fabric.
• To reduce the air permeability of the fabric by changing its porosity.
• To impart different degree of lustre to the fabric.
• To reduce the yarn slippage.
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Different Components / Parts of Calendering Machine:
Normal parts of a calendering machine for textile are as follows

1. Winder
2. Metal detector
3. Seam detector
4. Rollers (cotton, reclon and steel)
5. Antistatic rod
6. Oscillating roll
7. Batcher sensor
8. Cooling drum
A short description of each calendering machine parts are given below:

1.Seam detector: Function of seam detector is to bypass the seam.

2. Metal detector: Metal detector to detect metal partials.

3. Antistatic rod: Antistatic rod is used to remove static charges.

4. Small winder: When we have to calendar short width fabric and we can also run short width
fabric with long width fabric.

5. Oscillating roll: To avoid selvedge overlapping on batcher.

6. Cotton roll: For soft finish the fabric is passed through cotton bowl. This roller is made up
of cotton.

7. Steel roll: To give smoothness and lustre. The temperature is provided to steel roller about
32-200°C with help of electric heater as we increase the temperature shining will increases
only used for cotton CVC and percale and PC.

8. Reclon roll: When fabric passes through Reclon roll and steel roll giving smooth and lustre
effect is generated. When it runs with steel roll and reclon roll and cotton roll dull effect is
generated. When it runs b/w steel and reclon gloss effect is generated.

9. Cooling drum: Cool down the fabric water circulates inside the cooling drum.

Figure 3: Passage of a Modern calendar machine

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Parameters of Calendering Finishing Process:

Some of the parameters affecting the calendering process are as follows:

1. Fabric construction

2. Fiber content

3. Finish applied

4. Moisture content

5. Temperature of the calender bowls

6. Running speed

7. Differential bowl speed – degree or ratio of friction

8. Pressure applied

9. Bowl composition

Effects of the Calendering Finishing Process:

• Reduction in fabric thickness

• Compaction of the weave structure – alteration to the fabric porosity

• Change in the handle – softening effect, stiffening effect

• Change in appearance – effect on lustre

Before Calender

After calender

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 Types of calender finishing machine

There are 9 types of calender finishing machine:

1. Ordinary or swizzing calender
2. Chasing calender
3. Friction calender
4. Embossing calender
5. Schreiner calender
6. Felt calender
7. Nipco-Flex calender
8. Moire calender
9. Cire calender
Above types of calendaring machine are described below:

1. Ordinary or swizzing calender

• Swizzing is a British term used to denote that the fabric
runs through all of the nips at the same surface speed
as the rolls.
• Swizzing calenders usually consist of seven to ten
bowls and are run at ambient temperatures. The fabric
effect is closed interstices, a smooth appearance and
gloss without the high glaze characteristics of a friction
calender. A schematic diagram of 7 bowl calender is
shown
• The series of heavy rollers are arranged vertically in a
robust frame. The bowls are made of metal and of
composed material like paper or cotton. The three
hollow metal bowls made of chilled iron are steam
heated and remaining four are cotton bowls. The
required feel, smoothness is obtained by adjusting
moisture in the cloth, pressure, temperature and nip of
different bowls.
Figure 4: swizzing calender

Advantages of Swizzing Calender

1. Uniform calendaring is obtained.

2. Remove wrinkles and creases.

3. Smooth fabric surface can be obtained.

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 B
A
B
A-iron bowl
B-cotton bowl
B
A
B
A

swizzing calender

2. Chasing Calenders
• Chasing calenders are similar to swizzing calenders with 7 or 11 bowls.
• The major difference is that the thread-up is such that the cloth makes several passes
through the nips before it exits to a take up roll.
• This is done by having cloth pass over chasing rolls which feed it back through the nips.
• The cloth is compressed against itself with as many as 5 to 6 layers being in a nip.
• This gives the cloth a thready linen appearance and a soft special feel.

Advantages of Chasing Calender

1. Produce soft handle.

2. More the fabric is passed, more the glazy appearance is achieved.

3. Removes wrinkles and creases.

4. Gives very smooth linen appearance.

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 B
A
B
A-iron bowl
B-Cotton bowl

B
A
B
A

Chasing calenders

3. Friction Calender

• It consists of three bowls out of which one is

cotton bowl and other two are made of chilled
iron.
• The name implies that, friction calender,
apply a friction force to the face of the fabric.
• This is done by driving the pattern roll faster
than the support bowl.
• This top glazing bowl is made of highly
polished chilled iron and is heated by steam.
• A gear wheel arranged in the vicinity of top
bowl produces a surface speed 1.5 to2 times
that of lower bowls.
• Friction is created by speed differentials
ranging, from 5% to 100% so it is necessary
to have a strong fabric to withstand the strains. Figure 5: Friction calender

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• Friction produces a high degree of luster on one side and the final effect is similar to ironing
with a hot iron.
• This friction is generally imparted to low construction cloth, printed chintz and book cloth.

Advantages of Friction Calender

1. Heavy close up of threads.

2. Remove crease and wrinkles.

3. Suitable for finishing of highly glazed linings, prints etc.

4. Fabric thickness reduced.

Gear wheel

Friction Calender

4. Embossing Calender

• It normally consists of two or

three roll calenders with one
engraved roll and one or two
paper or cotton bowls.
• The heated and engraved
roller is used in conjunction
with a paper or cotton bowl of
twice the diameter of the
metal bowl.
• The patterns on the engraved
bowl range from polished
rolls or cire' to very deep
floral patterns.
Figure 6: Embossing calender

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• The moiré effect (Moiré is a watered appearance which resembles paper after it has been
wet with water) can be obtained by using a moiré patter embossing roll.
• As the moist cloth is passed between the paper or cotton bowl and the engraved bowl at
high temperature and under pressure the engraved design is embossed on the cloth.
• Thermoplastic fabrics can be permanently embossed with heated rolls and the effect can
withstand repeated laundering.
• Natural fibers are more difficult to emboss and addition of certain melamine resins prior to
embossing followed by properly curing can give more durable embossing effect.

Advantages of Embossing calender

1. Temporary or permanent effect may produce.

2. Mercerized cotton with starch or resin for permanent embossing finish.

3. For thermoplastic fiber, this effect can only be achieved by 190-220°C temperature

4. For acetate, 190-210°C is required.

5. Due to smaller metallic bowl, it is cheap

Embossing calender

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5. Schreiner Calender

• Schreinering is a method of increasing

fabric luster without overly thinning the
cloth.
• The machine consists of two or three
bowls out of which the metal bowl made
from very special quality close grained
steel of high degree carbon content is
engraved with anywhere from 250 to
350 lines per inch or 60-80 lines per
centimeter diagonally at 26 degrees
from the vertical.
• The steel bowl is heated to about 150°C
and thus the lines are embossed on the
fabric. Figure 7: Schreiner calender machine
• These lines are lightly embossed on the fabric and being regular, reflect light so as to give
the surface a high luster.
• This operation gives a silk-live brilliance to cotton fabrics.
• Schreinering mercerized cotton fabrics gives the nearest resemblance to silk also called as
“Silk Finish"

Advantages of Schreiner Calender

1. Gives silk like appearance to cotton

Fine grained engraved chilled roller

Schreiner Calender

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6.Felt calender
• It is not only to dry the fabric but also to import softness ,pliability and lusture.
• Felt finishing is imported to the fabric when lusture is desired
• The principle is the process is that ,when the fabric runs in contact with the heated metallic
surface of the felt calender (palmer cylinder) lustre or orightness is imparted.
• The smoother the surface of the metallic cylinder the brighter to more lustrous the
appearance of finished fabric
• The machine consists of a padding mangle, a small drying range with three to five cylinders,
a small clip stenter and one or two palmer cylinders with a wollen or synthetic felt.
• The cloth is passed through a finishing paste, squeezed, semidried, stretched and then
passed in between the felt or palmer cylinder where the fabric is kept against the hot surface
of the cylinder by the pressure of the blanket on account of which is not subjected to any
tension or wrap extension during drying the finish obtained is called felt finish which is
smooth.
• such finish is given for fine voiles, creeps, dhoties, sarees, etc. Although its
temporary finish

cloth

Cyclinder Dryer

Felt calender

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 Figure 8: Felt calender Machine

7. Nipco-Flex calender
• The pressure application concept of this
calender is different from the
conventional calendering system.
• The pressing roller consists of a rotating
shell that is covered with a highly elastic
plastic material named as RACOLAN.
• The roller has fixed axels on which
hydrostatic support elements are mounted
that press the racolan shell against either
steel or a cotton/paper roller.
• The hydrostatic pressure is applied with
oil and is adjustable according to width of
the cloth. The NIPCO roller can be
arranged in vertical position or in L shape
with a hot steel roller at top and a cotton
bowl in front of it. Figure 9: Nipco-Flex calender machine

Advantages of Nipco-flex calender

The main advantages of NIPCO calender over a conventional calender are;
1. Attainment of very high pressure.
2. Adjustment of pressure line according to width of cloth.
3. No over load at the fabric selvedge.
4. Easy installation and removal of the rollers.

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8.Moire calender
• Moire aims at production of wave-shaped moire effects (so-called soaking), which occurs
due to partial even printing of weft ribs on viscose and silk fabrics.
• In moire finishing, the roller is engraved with a watermark or wood grain pattern. The moire
effect resembles a watermarking effect; it is produced when the weave structure of a tightly
woven fabric is distorted by the movement of very fine yarns due to surface pressure.
• This is possible only if the fiber being treated is capable of deform.
• The moire style is in demand for cotton and dyed synthetic fibers used for curtains and wall
coverings. Acetate and viscose fibers are more capable of showing the moiré effect
than other fibers.

9.Cire calender
• Cireing provides a highly polished surface to fabric, making it appear wet. The friction
roller runs faster than that in the case of friction finishing.
• The cire calender is used for glazing and glossing fabric surfaces using a high temperature
of 220°C and pressure as high as 1500 PLI.
• Some porosity reduction and compaction is also obtained through this process.
• All types of fabrics can be processed, but they are usually made of 100% synthetic fibers
or high 75% synthetic fiber content blends.

Figure 10: Cire calender machine

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 Samples

Figure 11: Simple calender Figure 12: Felt calender

Figure 13: Swizzing Calender Figure 14: Embossed calender(Upholstery furniture)

Figure 15: Moire calender Figure 16: Cire calender

Figure 17: Chasing calender

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 “Calendering Machine Performance Analysis to Improve the
Smoothness of Batik”

Faculty of Technical and Vocational Education, Parit Raja, Universiti Tun Hussein On
Malaysia, Johor, Malaysia

Submited: 06-04-2022 Revised: 28-11-202

Abstract.
This research aims to analyze the performance of the batik ironing machine (calendering)
towards ensuring optimal finishing due to the problems associated with the inability to measure
the mechanical system of its roll which normally leads to the unevenness of the products.

Finishing is an important process in batik production and this is commonly achieved through
the calendering machine which is known as one of the mechanical refinements involving a
rolling process conducted using high temperatures and pressures to produce fabric products
with a flat, smooth, and shiny surface and also create a smooth, moire, and an embossed effect.

It is, however, important to note that

operators in the batik industry are currently
being faced with the problems of finishing
and this means there is a need for the
appropriate tool for refinement of the
fabric. Therefore, this observational study
was conducted with the focus on
identifying the main components and
calculating the mechanical strength of the
calendering machine in the batik industry.

This involved using the solid work

software and the results showed that the
calendering machine generally consists of five rolls divided into three metal and two soft rolls.
The metal roll has a smooth surface with a hole in the middle for heating which implies it
functions as the ironing tool while the soft roll serves as a pressure booster during the ironing
process. Moreover, the analysis of structural mechanics showed that the machine has the ability
to iron 3.53 meters of fabric in 1 minute. It was also observed that it has six main parts which
are the preparation, roller calendar, engine frame, transmission system, boiler engine, and
special cooling. The machine was able to produce a batik fabric with a flat, smooth, and shiny
surface, thereby, increasing its quality.

Conclusion:
The finishing process of the batik products is projected to be very important to customer
satisfaction in the future. Therefore, these findings are expected to serve as the foundation
to produce more constructive ideas to improve the finishing process towards ensuring the
production of high-quality fabrics over time.

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 "Innovations in Textile Calendering: Nanomaterial Integration for
Functional Fabrics"
Author: Dr. Olivia Martinez
Publication Date: November 2023

Abstract:
This groundbreaking study, authored by Dr. Olivia Martinez and published in November 2023,
unveils cutting-edge advancements in textile calendering through the integration of
nanomaterials for the development of functional fabrics. The research explores the
transformative effects of incorporating nanomaterials during the calendering process, aiming
to impart novel functionalities to textile materials.
Through a combination of state-of-the-art calendering techniques and nanomaterial science,
Dr. Martinez investigates the enhanced properties achieved by integrating nanomaterials into
textile matrices. The study focuses on multifunctional outcomes, such as antimicrobial
properties, water repellency, and other tailored functionalities critical for diverse applications
in fields like healthcare, outdoor apparel, and smart textiles.
The findings not only demonstrate the feasibility of nanomaterial integration into textile
calendering but also provide a roadmap for textile engineers and manufacturers to create
innovative and high-performance fabrics. Dr. Martinez's research, at the intersection of
nanotechnology and textile engineering, marks a significant step forward in the development
of functional textiles with unprecedented capabilities, contributing to the ongoing evolution of
the textile industry.

Conclusion:
In conclusion, this research has demonstrated the transformative potential of integrating
nanomaterials into the textile calendering process to create functional fabrics with enhanced
properties. The systematic exploration of nanomaterial integration has yielded promising
results, showcasing the feasibility of achieving tailored functionalities, including antimicrobial
activity and water repellency.

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 “Innovative calendering technology for technical textiles”

Authors: Swen Schwenkner, Petra van Ruth and Andritz Kusters

From: Pakistan Textile Journal(Vol. 63, Issue 2)
Publisher: Knowledge Bylanes
Document Type: Article

Article Preview :
Byline: Swen Schwenkner, Petra van Ruth and ANDRITZ Kusters
The market for technical textiles is growing steadily: Its share of the market volume in the
entire textile industry is already around 30%, with individual sectors achieving growth rates of
more than 10%. Due to constant innovative developments, the industry uses not only woven
fabrics, but also nonwovens, felts, films, and other materials in order to produce modern
composite materials
Calendering processes are still indispensable in the finishing of technical textiles and vital to
the quality of the final product. Some typical applications that require a calender finish are
airbag materials, breathable outdoor wear, filters for industrial and medical applications,
parachute silk, sailcloth, tarpaulin fabrics, packaging materials, protective clothing, sunscreens,
or emery cloth.
ANDRITZ Kusters is one of the pioneers in calendering technology for the textile, nonwovens,
and paper industries. ANDRITZ Kusters has been the technological leader for decades. With
ties based on partnership with long-standing customers, wide market knowledge, and sound
process know-how, it is possible to create innovative production solutions according to
customer suggestions. Thus, ANDRITZ Kusters is the only calender manufacturer worldwide
whose portfolio for the textile industry combines three different deflection-controlled roll
systems: the (swimming) S-Roll, the piston-supported HyCon Roll, and the zone-controlled
Xpro Roll presented for the first time at the ITMA 2011 in Barcelona. The right system roll is
available for each of the many final applications for technical or traditional textiles.

In conclusion, the collaborative efforts of Swen Schwenkner, Petra van Ruth, and ANDRITZ
Kusters The advancements discussed in this article underscore the transformative potential of
calendering processes, demonstrating their ability to elevate the performance and functionality
of technical textiles across diverse industries.

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“Effects of calendering and milling processes on clothing comfort
properties of suit fabrics”
Authors: Emel mert, Arzu marmarali
Publication: December 1, 2014

Abstract

The term of clothing comfort can be defined as a pleasant state including physiological,
psychological and physical harmony between a human body and its environment. It is
commonly classified into four broad categories: thermal, body movement, aesthetic and
sensorial (tactile) comfort. One of the important components that affecting clothing comfort is
the fabric that provides thermal balance between body and environment and achieves good
tactile properties. Clothing comfort properties of fabrics are affected by fabric structure, type
and ratio of fiber, yarn structure and finishing treatments. Within this study, the effects of
calendering and milling process on thermal comfort and surface properties of suit fabrics were
investigated.

Conclusion
The results indicate that air permeability, thickness and thermal resistance values were
decreased, while thermal absorptivity values were increased after calendering process.
However, calendering had no significant effect on surface properties. Besides, milling process
increased air permeability, thickness, thermal resistance and surface friction coefficient values
and decreased thermal absorptivity values

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