AB763 Mods
AB763 Mods
AB763 Mods
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By Rob Robinette
WARNING: A tube amplifier chassis contains lethal high voltage even when unplugged--sometimes over 700 vo
and 500 volts DC. If you have not been trained to work with high voltage then have an amp technician service yo
Never touch the amplifier chassis with one hand while probing with the other hand because a lethal shock can r
between your arms through your heart. Use just one hand when working on a powered amp. See more tube amp
safety info here.
'AB763' was Fender's internal model designation for the 1963 blackface circuit. The "763" in the model name com
the circuit change date of 7-1963. It was used in the Deluxe Reverb, Twin Reverb, Super Reverb, Concert, Band-Maste
Showman, Pro, Vibrolux, Vibroverb, Tremolux and no-reverb Deluxe. For information about the AB763 model differences
The AB763 circuit is considered by most to be the pinnacle of Fender amplifier design. This is why so many post-AB7
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were "blackfaced" back to AB763 specs. I usually prefer switchable mods that keep the amp's original tone in place. The
unused Normal channel is also a great place to mod away with to make that channel interesting and usable.
If you are considering building an AB763 with reverb in a head cab I recommend you go no smaller on the head cab dime
than the silver face Dual Showman Reverb head cab. It allows for enough separation of the reverb tank and power transf
keep hum pickup to a minimum. There's also enough room for the addition of a nice little 6" practice speaker.
Note the Preamp Plate Voltage difference between the Deluxe Reverb and the higher powered amps.
List of Mods
robrob Normal Channel Reverb Mod The preferred way to apply reverb and tremolo to both channels and allow
jumpering.
Fender Normal Channel Reverb Mod Apply reverb and tremolo to both channels the way Fender did it in the 68 Custo
Reverb.
"Fritz" Mod Classic mod to send both channels through the reverb and tremolo effects.
Lead Channel Mod Do something constructive with your unused Normal channel.
Plate Load Resistor Mod Add preamp gain with a simple resistor swap
Boost Preamp Voltage Add preamp clean headroom to the low voltage Deluxe, Deluxe Reverb, Vibrolux and Tremolux
3-Way Negative Feedback Switch Mod Make your amp more versatile.
Master Volume Mod Add a simple Trainwreck Type-3 PPIMV master volume.
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Master Volume Trainwreck Type-2 PPIMV
Master Volume + Vox Tone Cut Master volume AND late-in-the-circuit tone control. I love this thing.
1/4 Power Switch Dump 3/4 of the amp output for lower volume
10% Power Switch Dump 90% of the amp output for true bedroom level output
10% Power Jack Use your Aux jack as a 10% output jack
10% Power In External Box External box goes between your amp and speaker to dump 90% of amp power
1/2 Power Switch Pentode / Triode Switch Cut power tube output for lower volume
Add a Presence Control Use this late-in-the-circuit tone control to tame ice pick and tweak your tone.
Turn Presence Control Into Variable NFB Presence Control or Variable NFB at the flick of a switch.
Add a Mid Tone Pot If you amp doesn't have one then add one
Raw Switch Mod Eliminate the tone stack and boost volume.
Tone Stack Mods Why have two identical tone stacks? Mod one of them.
Firm Up the Deluxe and Deluxe Reverb's Loose Low End Make it sound more like a Twin Reverb.
Tremolo Cut Switch Mod Add preamp gain with this simple and very useful mod.
Adjust Reverb Level Mod Want to change the action of the reverb control? This is how.
Reduce Ice Pick Highs Take the edge off your tone with a single cap.
Channel Mixing Resistors Bright Cap Mod Get a little more brightness from either channel.
Power Tube Grid Leak Mod Marshall style 100k Grid Leak resistors.
Extra Bias Filter Cap Mod Reduce hum from the bias circuit.
Reduce Resistor Hiss Mod Swap out those noisy carbon comp resistors.
Reduce Reverb Noise & Oscillation Simple mod to clean up the reverb.
Darken the Reverb Tone Is your reverb tone too bright? This easy mod can tune the tone.
Dumble Mods
Replace the 2-Prong AC Receptacle With a 3-Prong Use modern accessories with the amp.
Convert a Band-Master Head into a Vibrolux, Tremolux, Pro, Concert or Reverbless Vibroverb or Super Reverb
Speaker Suggestions
Quad Power Tube Half Power Switch Kill two of your four power tubes at the flip of a switch.
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Run 6V6 Power Tubes in a 6L6 Amp Less output power, small bottle tone with more power tube distortion.
Run 6L6 Power Tubes in a 6V6 Amp A tone change with little power gain.
Run 2 Power Tubes in a 4 Power Tube Amp Cut your output power almost in half.
Run 2 6V6 Power Tubes in a 4x6L6 Amp Cut your big amp's power by 65%.
Tube Tweaks It's surprising how much you can do with simple preamp tube swaps.
AB763 Amp With Tremolo Deleted Keep the reverb but drop the tremolo.
Convert a Silverface Amp's Bias Balance circuit to Adjustable Bias + Bias Balance
Annotated AB763 Schematic & Annotated AB763 Layout Circuit study aids.
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Click the image for the full size schematic. Every component function is listed.
Model differences are highlighted in pink. Click on the image to see the full size layout. Download the pdf here. Downl
AB763 DIYLC file here.
Band-Master Chassis
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Note the two wire bundles that are wrapped with a reddish ground wire. The Vibrato channel tone wires are wrapped a
Doghouse A, B & C power wires are wrapped. This was done as a "poor man's shield". Also notice how all the Tremolo
bundled and run along the chassis and then shoot straight down to their terminals. The tremolo wires carry a very stron
that can bleed into other signal wires so pay close attention to their placement. This is my personal AA1069 silverface Ba
Reverb and it's a very quiet amp. Silverface amps used shielded coax for the input jack and volume output runs to the V
grids. The coax is grounded only on the input end to prevent a ground loop.
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This is how Fender does a modern hand wired blackface amp. Note the use of quiet metal film resistors except the V
cathode resistor. The "Fender Normal Channel Reverb Mod" is the blue wire that runs from the V1B plate resistor to the
resistor (blue wire twisted with yellow plate power supply wire). The small board at far left adds a soft start thermistor an
RFI noise cap to the mains line. Artificial 6.3v heater center tap resistors are connected to the pilot light at far upper le
Power switch switches both the mains hot and neutral lines. The Ground Switch and AC Receptacle have been deleted.
has both channels run through the reverb circuit and uses bias vary tremolo instead of AB763 signal tremolo. The Cus
Deluxe Reverb currently sells for $2500 at Sweetwater.
This is a beautiful build. Click the image to see the high resolution picture. Marcus is quite the photographer too
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channel using a coupling cap and mixing resistor to feed the reverb circuit and V4B preamp, both channels' output are pe
balanced with minimum attenuation and channel interaction.
By preserving the Normal channel coupling cap we can use it to voice the channel such as in the Lead Channel Mod. Th
Reverb Mod is also superior to the "Fritz Mod" and Fender Reverb shown in the next section because retaining both mixi
resistors prevents the severe signal attenuation and/or channel interaction that occurs with the other reverb mods. The ro
Reverb Mod does not affect the Vibrato Channel's tone at all. This mod also puts the two channels in phase so you c
jumper the channels together for a slightly thicker tone. This is an excellent mod and I highly recommend it. This m
easy to reverse if you ever want to return to the stock Fender circuit.
Both channels have a coupling cap and mixing resistor feeding the reverb circuit and the V4B preamp stage. The mixing
prevent channel interaction.
Note: if you're going to do the Lead Channel Mod then do it first because this mod places the Normal channel coupling c
the cathode resistor and bypass cap.
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1. Desolder and pull the Vibrato channel .02uF coupling cap output end loose and bend it upwards. Twist the leads of two
watt resistors together (new mixing resistors) and solder the twisted end into the empty eyelet. Solder one of the resistors
coupling cap's free lead.
2. Desolder and pull the Normal channel's .047uF cap's output end and bend it toward the new Normal channel mixing re
from step 1, solder the .047uF coupling cap to the new Normal channel 220k mixing resistor installed in Step 1.
If you want to change the Normal channel cap's value then simply remove the original cap and solder in the cap of
as shown in the layout below.
3. The Normal channel original 220k Channel Mix resistor (below at far left) is not in the new circuit so it should be discon
prevent the long wire run across the board from becoming an antenna. Leave the Vibrato Channel original 220k Channel
resistor in place because it affects the phase inverter's overdrive tone.
The Normal channel's coupling cap + new 220k Channel Mix resistor easily span the distance to the Vibrato channel's n
Channel Mix resistor. Remember to disconnect the original Normal Channel 220k Channel Mix resistor (at far lef
The Normal channel 220k mixing resistor is R12 on the circuit board. Its output end (the end connected to R35 and C25)
be carefully unsoldered and lifted.
Solder a jumper wire from the lifted end of R12 and connect it to the input end of the 3.3M Reverb Mix resistor R25 (R25
end is connected to C12).
For the Vibrato channel a new 220k mixing resistor needs to be inserted: lift the output end of C12 (Vibrato channel coup
The output end is connected to R25.
Connect the lifted end of C12 with its open pad with a 220k 1/2 watt resistor.
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To send the Normal Channel signal through the reverb and tremolo you simply connect the V1B and V2B plates at the
(input, nearest tubes) of the two coupling caps. You must also clip or remove the V1B .047uF coupling cap on the ri
recommend just clipping a leg of the cap right at the eyelet so you can easily re-solder it if you ever want to reverse the m
this mod I no longer recommend jumpering around the Vibrato channel 220K channel mixing resistor (at far left). Just le
mixing resistor in place. Click the image to see the full size version. Original photo by John Chabalko.
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To do this mod to the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue you would connect the top of Resistors R23 & R11 with a jumper wi
remove capacitor C5. I now recommend you leave resistor R35 at far right in place (Vibrato Channel Mixing resist
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The channel jumper is connected to the output (upper) end of the coupling caps. You must clip or remove the left (N
Channel) 220k channel mixing resistor at far left above. I now recommend leaving the Vibrato Channel 220k channel
resistor at far left in place. Click the image to see the full size version. Original photo by John Chabalko.
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To do the Fritz mod to the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue you would connect the output end of capacitor C5 to the outpu
capacitor C12. Clip or remove resistor R12 at far right. Leave resistor R35 (Vibrato Channel Mixing resistor next to R12)
The circuit board has these parts labeled.
With these four changes you can push the Lead Channel very hard with gain and boost pedals and get a nice, tig
modern overdrive tone. Reverb and delay effects and hot humbucker pickups will also sound better through this "lead"
because the reduction in low frequencies will keep the amp from being overwhelmed. This mod will also make the chann
pedal friendly in general. I really love the Lead Channel Mod.
When evaluating this mod be sure and try a boost pedal to get the gain and distortion up--this is when this mod
shines.
This mod will not affect the Vibrato Channel. You'll also be able to run more reverb with the Lead Channel becau
very low freqs aren't there to freak out the reverb circuit and springs.
Here's an excellent demo showing the difference between the 5E3 unmodified Bright channel and the "Lead Cha
kdj 5E3 Lead Channel YouTube Demo The difference between the Vibrato and "Lead Channel" won't be quite so stark
AB763.
The 2.7k cathode resistor is used in many high gain preamps and will bias the preamp cool and make creamy asymme
distortion more likely. The smaller bypass cap will boost more mids and highs. The .0047uF coupling cap is standard i
modern high gain amps and will trim unneeded low frequencies to tighten up the overdrive tone. This smaller cap will swe
overdrive tone by reducing bias drift recovery time of an overdriven second preamp stage. The V1A 220k 1 watt plate lo
resistor will add gain to the channel's first preamp gain stage and make overdrive more likely in the amp's following gain
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For the mod you increase the V1A cathode resistor from 1.5k to 2.7k (1/2 watt), reduce its bypass cap to .68uF (micro Fa
increase the plate load resistor from 100k to 220k 1 watt and reduce the big V1B .047uF coupling cap to .0047uF 450V
voltage and yes, that is with two leading zeros).
For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb the V1A cathode resistor is R5. The V1A cathode
capacitor is C1. The V1A plate load resistor is R4. The V1B coupling capacitor is C5. On the 68 CDR cap C5 is deleted
worry about it. The circuit board has these parts labeled.
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I like to do this to just one channel so consider changing the Normal Channel's V1A and/or V1B plate load resistor. I prefe
modifying the Normal Channel first gain stage (V1A) plate load resistor with a 220k 1 watt first. I use this mod in the Lea
Channel Mod above.
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For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb you would change out V1A Load resistor R4, V1B R
R16, V2B R29. The circuit board has these parts labeled.
The high preamp voltage AB763 amps like the Twin Reverb use a 1k 1 watt "C" power node power resistor and 4.7k 1 wa
power resistor.
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In the Twin Reverb the C Power Resistor is a 1k 1 watt resistor. The D resistor is a 4.7k 1 watt.
I recommend you start by modifying just the C power node power resistor first and sample the modified tone. Reducing t
of the C power resistor will raise the voltage on all the tube plates except the power tubes. Replace the C power
with a 1k 3 watt. I recommend a 3 watt rating for these resistors for longevity's sake. The C and D power resistors are
in the "doghouse" which is located outside the chassis next to the output transformer. You can temporarily allig
a resistor in parallel with the existing power resistor to try a lower value. For example, the Deluxe Reverb has a 10
resistor so paralleling a 1.2k (1 watt or higher) will give you 1k of resistance [ 1 / (1/10k + 1/1.2k) = 1k ]
You don't have to use 1k for the C resistor, you can chose any resistor value between the original value and 1k to tweak
change to your liking.
If you like the change and want more then replace the D power resistor with a 4.7k 3 watt which will boost only the pream
(and reverb recovery in the reverb amps). Again, you don't have to use a 4.7k resistor here, you can chose any resistor v
between the original value and 4.7k.
The C and D power resistors are located at upper left in the filter cap "doghouse."
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The C and D power resistors are located at upper left in the filter cap "doghouse."
The C and D power (voltage dropping) resistors are located at upper-center left in the filter cap "doghouse."
I like to use the 3-way ON/OFF/ON SPDT Ground Switch to give you: Normal/Light/Heavy negative feedback. You can le
old 820 ohm NFB resistor in place on the circuit board.
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The 3-Way NFB Switch gives you "Normal", "Light" and "Heavy" NFB options. The center position uses only th
resistor for "Light" NFB (half of normal NFB). The right switch position parallels the 1.8k and 1.5k resistors for factory or
820Ω of NFB resistance. The left position parallels the 1.5k and 820Ω resistors for 530Ω of "Heavy" NFB resistance. If y
want to use the Ground Switch for NFB I suggest installing an SPDT ON/OFF/ON mini switch next to the tremolo intens
on the back panel.
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If you want a "No NFB" switch position then wire the switch like this. With the switch to the right you get Normal NF
820 ohm resistor. Switch in the middle positions disconnects NFB. In the left position we get the 68 CDR "Light" NFB wi
resistor.
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For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb the negative feedback resistor is R64. It is 820 ohm
'65 and 1.5k for the '68. The circuit board has this part labeled.
For the Type-3 master volume you simply add a 1 mega ohm audio (log) pot and two wires. It's easy to temporarily alli
the pot into the circuit to give it a try. When the Master Volume pot is set to max the master volume circuit virtually dis
and will not color the amp's tone.
You can place your master volume pot anywhere but you may have to use shielded wire to prevent noise or oscillati
RG-174 coax cable when I need shielded coax in an amp. Only ground one end of any coax cable in an amp, preferably
input end, to keep from forming a ground loop. Shielded microphone cable with 4 conductors can also be used so you wo
only one cable which makes for a cleaner install. If you keep the wire runs relatively short and away from the power trans
end of the amp you should be OK without using shielded coax.
Simple But Effective Trainwreck Type-3 Post Phase Inverter Master Volume (PPIM
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Add a 1 megaohm audio (log) pot and two wires and you've got an effective post phase inverter Master Volume. As you
Master Volume pot down (counterclockwise, pot is shown shaft down) more of the opposite phase signals from the phas
are mixed together which cancels the signal out. I highly recommend using RG174 shielded coax to make the runs to th
minimize noise. I did this mod to my 5F6A Bassman and it works great.
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Add a 1 megaohm audio (log) pot and two wires and you've got an effective post phase inverter Master Volume. As you
Master Volume pot down (counterclockwise) more of the opposite phase signals from the phase inverter are mixed toget
cancels the signal out. The pot is shown shaft down in the layout. Ground the RG174 coax shield only at one en
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If you are anal you can completely eliminate the Type-3 from the amp circuit by adding a switch to disconnect the
Use a 250KA pot with a push-pull DPDT switch and wire one leg of the master volume through the switch so when the m
volume knob is down the circuit is completely disconnected. Pull the knob up to activate the master volume. A 250KA pot
you a better volume sweep than a 1MA and since we can disconnect the MV we don't have to worry about the 250KA po
the amp tone.
To do this you would run the wire from the #2 (center) pot terminal to the upper left DPDT switch terminal, then run a wire
middle left DPDT switch terminal to the circuit board's right 220k resistor. The wire from the #1 (left) pot terminal would be
normal to the left 220k resistor (see layout below).
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Master Volume knob Down = no master volume at all, Up = master volume on. This diagram shows a 5E3 Deluxe but th
pull switch wiring is the same.
Another option is to use a switch and resistor for your master volume instead of a pot. You simply replace the master volu
with a resistor on a switch. One guy used a 5k 1/2 watt resistor which gave him his preferred "bedroom practice" output le
Switch OFF = no master volume at all, ON = bedroom volume.
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When the master volume is turned down the guitar signal is bled to ground through the bias circuit. The 1.8M Safety re
allow bias voltage to pass around the master volume pot in case of a wiper failure. The resistors also lower the max g
resistance to 220k to match the stock grid leak resistors.
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Type-2/Lar-Mar master volume shown on a 5F6A Bassman but the implementation is the same in AB763 amps. A dua
250KA pot (one shaft turns both pots, audio or log taper) replaces the two 220k power tube grid leak resistors. This is t
transparent of all the master volume types. The 1.8M resistors on the Master Volume pot reduce the pot resistance to 2
stock value) and add a failsafe path for bias voltage.
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The Vox Cut Control connects the two power tube grids with a 220k audio pot and 4.7nF (.0047uF) capacitor to allow var
end cut. In a push-pull amp the guitar audio signals on the two power tube grids are 180 degrees out of phase with one a
mixing them together nullifies the signal, kind of like mixing matter and antimatter. The capacitor limits the effect to hig
frequencies but if you jumper around the cap the pot becomes a Trainwreck Type-3 Master Volume.
I like this very late tone tweak because it pairs well with an early tone control or stack. Use the early tone control to
overdrive tone and substance you want then use the Cut Control to fine tune the tone. The Cut Control affects only th
tubes.
Wire the cut pot as a variable resistor so that as you turn the knob up (clockwise) resistance increases. Up = more resista
brighter tone.
220KA or 250KA pot (audio pot wired as variable resistor) and .0047uF 200v cap connect the two phase inverter ou
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The Cut Control is shown on a 5F6A but the mod is identical on an AB763. The .0047uF Cut Cap can be supported by
grounded terminal strip.
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You can turn a Cut Control into a Trainwreck Type-3 Master Volume by simply jumpering around the Cut Cap.
250KA push-pull pot and you can push the pot down for Cut Control or pull it up for Master Volume. Connect the "cut ca
from pot terminal #3 to the middle switch terminal.
The Eric Clapton Tremolux is a 2x6V6 fixed bias amp putting out about 20 watts so this circuit will work with any amp with
or lower output.
You can use the 1/4 Power Switch with the internal speaker and an external cab simultaneously but the speakers' load w
4 ohms so most of the power will bypass the 16 ohm resistor and flow through the 8 ohm resistor and speakers. Total loa
output transformer drops to 6.8 ohms but the Fender 8 ohm transformer is designed to work with two parallel speakers at
load so it's not a problem.
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The 8 ohm 25w resistor is placed in series with the amplifier speaker and the 16 ohm 25 watt resistor is placed in paralle
the total speaker load back down to 8 ohms. If your amp does not have an Aux speaker jack just connect the 16 ohm
and switch wire to the speaker jack's Tip and Ground terminals.
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Large, gold colored 25 watt chassis mount resistors with 1/4 Power Switch at upper right. Photo by Tom Maciel
Mouser.com: 8 ohm 25 watt wire wound chassis mount resistor, 16 ohm 25 watt resistor. The resistors are about
These are chassis mount resistors and should be screwed or bolted to the chassis to dissipate heat. If they are n
bolted to the chassis their heat rating drops to about 5 watts.
For a 4 ohm output transformer secondary change the resistors to a 4 ohm 25 watt and 8 ohm 25 watt.
For a 16 ohm output transformer secondary change the resistors to a 16 ohm 25 watt and 32 ohm 25 watt.
For a 1x6V6 cathode biased amp like the 5F1 Champ 10 watt chassis mounted resistors would be fine.
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With the switch set to 10% both jacks will be 8 ohm with 90% of the amp power turned into resistor heat. These 25 watt
are adequate for 15 watt amps such as a 5E3 Deluxe or other cathode biased 6V6 push-pull amps.
These are chassis mount resistors and should be screwed or bolted to the chassis to dissipate heat. If they are n
bolted to the chassis their heat rating drops to about 5 watts.
For 25 watt amps such as a blackface or silver face Deluxe or other fixed bias 2x6V6 push-pull amps I recommend 50 wa
resistors (two 25 watt resistors in parallel will also give you 50 watts).
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For 50 watt amps such as 2x6L6 amps I recommend 100 watt resistors (two 50 watt resistors in parallel will also give you
watts).
For a 100 watt amp such as 4x6L6 amps I recommend 200 watt resistors (two 100 watt resistors in parallel will also give
watts). These would be difficult to stuff into an amp chassis.
For a 2 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 3 and 4 ohm resistors.
For a 4 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 6 and 8 ohm resistors.
For a 16 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 24 and 32 ohm resistors.
If your amp has a negative feedback loop then tap it from the main speaker jack tip connection.
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The main speaker jack on the left is 8 ohm full power. The 10% jack on the right is 8 ohm but 90% of the amp output p
burned in the two 25 watt resistors. These 25 watt resistors are adequate for 15 watt amps such as a 5E3 Deluxe or othe
biased 6V6 push-pull amps.
These are chassis mount resistors and should be screwed or bolted to the chassis to dissipate heat. If they are n
bolted to the chassis their heat rating drops to about 5 watts.
For 25 watt amps such as a blackface or silver face Deluxe or other fixed bias 2x6V6 push-pull amps I recommend 50 wa
resistors (two 25 watt resistors in parallel will give you 50 watts).
For 50 watt amps such as 2x6L6 amps I recommend 100 watt resistors (two 50 watt resistors in parallel will also give you
watts).
For a 100 watt amp such as 4x6L6 amps I recommend 200 watt resistors (two 100 watt resistors in parallel will also give
watts). These would be difficult to stuff into an amp chassis.
For a 2 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 3 and 4 ohm resistors.
For a 4 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 6 and 8 ohm resistors.
For a 16 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 24 and 32 ohm resistors.
If your amp has a negative feedback loop then tap it from the main speaker jack tip connection.
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These are chassis mount resistors and should be screwed or bolted to the box to dissipate heat. If they are not b
the chassis their heat rating drops to about 5 watts.
For 25 watt amps such as a blackface or silver face Deluxe or other fixed bias 2x6V6 push-pull amps I recommend 50 wa
resistors (two 25 watt resistors in parallel will also give you 50 watts).
For 50 watt amps such as 2x6L6 amps I recommend 100 watt resistors (two 50 watt resistors in parallel will also give yo
watts).
For a 100 watt amp such as 4x6L6 amps I recommend 200 watt resistors (two 100 watt resistors in parallel will also give
watts). I don't recommend this because the box would have to be really big to provide an adequate heat sink for the big r
For a 2 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 3 and 4 ohm resistors.
For a 4 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 6 and 8 ohm resistors.
For a 16 ohm output transformer secondary you would use 24 and 32 ohm resistors.
A triode tube's plate normally 'pulls' free electrons from the cathode but a triode's plate voltage fluctuates as it amplifies a
audio signal. When the plate voltage drops it does not pull electrons as hard as it does when the plate voltage is high. Ad
fixed, high voltage screen grid makes a tube much more efficient because the screen's constant strong pull of electrons d
drop when the plate's voltage drops so the tube flows more electrons.
The Half Power Switch (ON-ON DPDT mini switch) connects the power tube screens (pin 4) to B+2 (normal full power pe
to the power tube plates (pin 3 for half power 'triode' mode). Removing B+2 and tying the power tubes' screen and plate t
deactivates the screen by allowing the screen voltage to fluctuate along with the plate voltage effectively creating a lower
'triode.' Running a pentode in 'triode' mode definitely changes its clean and overdrive tone so it's more than just a 'half po
mode.
Power tube screen grid is connected to either the plate in the triode mode, or the B+2 screen power supply in the pentod
This is a simple mod because there's room between the power tubes for the mini switch so the resistors can be connecte
between the tube sockets and switch. 470Ω 2 watt screen resistors are added to keep the screen voltage slightly lower th
voltage. These resistors have no effect on amp tone but give the added benefit of protecting the power tubes from exces
screen current which can extend the life of your power tubes.
With the switch lever 'IN' you get normal full power. With the lever 'OUT' you get 'tetrode' half power.
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This is my recommended layout with 470Ω 2 watt screen resistors always in circuit to provide excess screen current pr
Alternate Design With Screen Resistors Used only For Low Power
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470Ω Screen Resistors moved to switch input so they are only used in the 'Low Power' switch position. Use this layout if
want to alter your 5E3's circuit with the switch in the normal 'High Power' position.
To add the Presence Control we'll delete the NFB Tail resistor and replace it with a 25KL pot with a .1uF (600v poly) cap
1/2 watt resistor. We also have to adjust the size of the NFB resistor and the phase inverter tail resistor (PI Tail in layout)
compensate for the presence control's added resistance (going from 47 ohm NFB tail to 4.7k of tail resistance). With this
presence circuit you'll get standard AB763 tone with the presence pot turned full down.
The 4.7k presence resistor on the presence pot acts as the NFB Tail resistor. The .1uF cap blocks DC flow through the p
eliminate "static" when adjusting the control. The cap also sends high frequencies from the NFB loop to ground which bo
at the speaker. These boosted highs have less NFB so they are "thicker and harrier" with additional harmonic and interm
distortion which adds "presence". Since the back of the presence pot is used as a ground be sure and use a star wa
the pot to ensure good pot-to-chassis contact.
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The Presence Cap bleeds NFB high frequencies to ground and also blocks DC from flowing through the Presence pot. T
differs from the Fender 5F6A schematic and layout but matches what was actually installed in most 5F6As from the f
The NFB Resistor and NFB Tail resistor form a voltage divider to set the NFB signal level. The ratio of this voltage divide
used to calculate the value of our new NFB Resistor. Blackface amps use an 820 ohm NFB resistor with either a 47 or 10
NFB Tail resistor. The 47 ohm NFB tail resistor was used in amps with 8 ohm outputs and the 100 ohm resistor was used
compensate for the lower voltage put out by 4 and 2 ohm power transformer secondaries.
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The ratio of our silverface amps with a 47 ohm NFB Tail resistor is 820 / 47 = 17.4. Since the NFB tail resistance is bein
increased from 47 to 4.7k we can use this NFB ratio to calculate the appropriate NFB resistor to pair with the presence c
* 17.4 = 82k for the new NFB resistor.
For amps with a 100 ohm NFB Tail resistor we use 820 / 100 = 8.2, 4.7k * 8.2 = 38.5k. The nearest standard resistor va
39k NFB resistor for amps with 100 ohm NFB Tail resistors.
Since the Presence control adds 4.7k of tail resistance to the phase inverter circuit we need to decrease the PI Tail resi
22k to 18k to compensate.
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To add a Presence Control we delete the NFB Tail resistor from the circuit board (47 or 100 ohm) and replace it with
Presence resistor mounted on the Presence pot. The .1uF Presence capacitor forms an RC low pass filter with the NFB
The Presence pot is wired as a variable resistor to control how much high frequency signal is bled through the cap to gro
NFB resistor is increased to 82k and the PI Tail resistor is reduced by 4k to make up for the added NFB tail resistance.
resistor should be 82k for amps with a 47 ohm NFB Tail resistor and 39k for amps with a 100 ohm NFB Tail.
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Added switched parallel 10uF (or larger) 250v (or higher) capacitor. The switch is a SPST (single post single throw) with
Presence, closed = NFB Conrol.
I recommend using shielded cable such as RG174 or for a very clean install use a shielded multi-conductor microphone c
use one conductor to the switch and another conductor from the switch. Ground the cable shield at one end only, whiche
has the easiest access to a ground which is probably the back of the presence pot.
My personal favorite Mid tone control is a 6.8k resistor in series with a 100KA Mid pot. This allows me to set the Mid cont
minimum and get Fender "normal" 6.8k mid resistance. Turn it up and I transition from blackface to tweed tone.
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The 6.8k Mid resistor is at the bottom of the schematic. It serves as the entire tone stack's ground connection. Addin
resistance adds mid frequencies and reduces the tone stack load which adds gain. Disconnecting the Mid resistor will co
remove the tone stack from the amp circuit.
The 6.8k Mid resistor supplies the tone stack connection to ground. The bottom of the resistor is connected to the pream
bus bar.
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100KA Mid/Raw pot with a 6.8k Mid Minimum resistor allows rolling the pot down to minimum to get "normal" Fender 6
tone. Turn up the pot a little to add mids, turn it up a lot and you approach tweed tone with flat tone curve and more prea
You can also use a 25KA or 50KA Mid pot for less max tweed. Note that if a Presence pot ground is connected to the Mi
will need to run the presence pot directly to ground--do not run its ground through the 6.8k Mid Minimum resisto
If you feel the jump in gain is too much or the raw tone is too wooly you can reduce the raw boost effect by putting a
between the two raw switch terminals so when the switch opens for "raw tone" some tone stack current can still flow. Ope
raw switch will add the resistor value to the tone stack mid cap value. When the raw switch is in the normal, closed positi
raw switch resistor is bypassed.
You can see how even with all three tone pots at max what a huge boost in signal you get when the Raw Switch is enga
stack ground disconnected). The mid scoop is also flattened out. Chart is from the Duncan Tone Stack Calculato
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Raw switch added to AB763 Normal Channel. The switch is grounded at the Volume pot ground. The switch is a SPST
Post, Single Throw) ON/OFF mini-switch.
The 6.8k Mid resistors are located on both Bass pots. Just remove the resistor from the pot and connect the pot's left term
Raw switch terminal with a new 6.8k 1/2 watt resistor (the leads of the original resistor won't be long enough to reach the
Connect the other switch terminal to ground and you're done.
With the switch in the connected position the tone stack is completely normal. With the switch in the disconnected positio
tone stack disappears from the circuit and you get a big, fat signal boost. I like to orient the switch so that down is norma
(connected) and up is raw/boost (disconnected).
You can use a push-pull 1MA volume pot as the raw switch if you prefer not to drill a hole in your faceplate for a
Just replace the volume pot with a 1MA (1 meg audio) push-pull pot and connect the 6.8k Mid resistor to the center-left p
terminal and connect the ground to the bottom-left terminal. With the push-pull down you will have a normal tone stack. P
volume control up and you get raw/boost.
For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb the Mid tone resistors are Normal Channel R9, V
Channel R21 (at far right). The circuit board has these parts labeled. The resistors are mounted next to the Bass tone
Disconnect one end of resistor R9 and bend it to one side. Connect the Raw switch to the free end of R9 and the emp
mounting pad.
If your AB763 amp has a Mid tone pot then you don't need the 6.8k resistor at all. Just run the Mid pot's ground wire (o
Mid pot terminal) to a Raw switch terminal and the other switch terminal to ground. The switch will now interrupt the tone
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ground.
My preferred option for amps with a Mid tone pot is to simply replace the 10KA (audio or log) Mid pot with a 25KA
100KA pot (I prefer the 100KA). When you turn the Mid knob higher it will act as a "Raw" control, boosting the si
removing the mid scoop.
I had one modder get an oscillation when he bypassed his tone stack with a raw switch. The extra gain from removing th
tone stack was enough to cause a downstream gain stage to freak out. He solved the problem by placing a 100k resistor
the switch terminals. The resistor reduces the gain jump when the switch is opened. You can use this resistor across t
switch to fine tune the level of gain added when the raw switch is turned on (opened).
The Tone Stack is a series of three RC (resistance capacitance) audio filters that block three bands of audio freq
The Treble and Bass pots change the resistance of the RC audio filters to change the amount of signal filtered o
blackface tone stack is a passive filter so it cannot boost any frequency band, it can only remove parts of the gu
audio signal. Note the Treble pot is wired as a variable voltage divider (potentiometer) while the Bass pot is wired as a v
resistor (the input and wiper terminals are tied together). In AB763 amps with a Mid pot it is a 10KA (audio or log) wired a
variable resistor.
Be aware that tone stack mods can affect "Fender Shimmer." When an AC audio signal enters a capacitor there is a
delay as the cap fills and drains. This delay is called "phase shift". The larger the cap value the more delay so bass frequ
are phase shifted more than treble frequencies in the AB763 tone stack. Fender Shimmer is caused by this differing pha
between treble (goes through a tiny 250pF treble cap) and bass (goes through large .1uF cap). The shimmer occurs whe
treble and bass frequencies overlap--the mid highs to the mid lows. The treble control acts as a mixer for the treble and b
maximum shimmer will occur near the treble control mid point when bass and treble are most balanced. The effect is sim
guitars playing, one playing treble and one playing bass and they are slightly out of time which creates a nice, fat mid freq
tone. As guitar notes decay their harmonic overtones cause varying amounts of phase shift through the tone stack which
the actual wavering "shimmer" effect. The greater the difference between the treble and bass capacitance values, the gre
shimmer effect. Blackface AB763 tone stacks with their large .1uF bass caps, tiny 250pF treble caps and 100k tone slope
seem to work best at maximizing shimmer. A lower 56k tone slope resistor raises the point of maximum shimmer a full oc
AB763 tone stack Fender Shimmer is one of the main reasons blackface amps are considered the high water ma
Fender amps. The shimmer added the missing ingredient needed to make the then new solid body electric guitar sound
Both channels' tone stacks are identical. The stacks' output flows directly into the Volume pot.
A common mod is to replace the 100k Tone Slope (yes, that's where he got his name) resistor with a 56k or even 33k wh
changes the way the tone controls operate. Others prefer a 150k Tone Slope. Keep in mind a lower Tone Slope resistor w
increase the load of the tone stack and reduce gain.
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Standard 100k Tone Slope resistor on the left, 56k on the right. The effect is subtle but some prefer the 56k slope. Notice
max bass and treble are balanced on the right with the 56k slope resistor. The 56k also boosts the midrange by 2
a fan of the 56k tone slope resistor.
Another common mod is replacing the Tone Stack's 250pF treble tone cap with a 500pF which will extend the treble cont
into the mid frequencies.
The reissue 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb uses a .02uF Mid cap instead of the AB763 standard .047uF. You can see t
difference between the .047 and .02uF Mid cap in this chart:
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The Custom channel's reduced .02uF middle cap shifts the "mid" frequency band higher and reduces the mid scoop by
The 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb also has an 18k resistor between the Bass pot and 6.8k Mid resistor. The 18k resistor wo
minimum bass setting and keeps the bass from falling off a cliff as you approach the Bass pot's minimum setting. It make
low bass settings easier and more precise but it does limit you to how low you can set the bass.
If you are considering modifying the tone stack I recommend you download the free Duncan Amps Tone Stack C
so you can see graphically what the modifications do and how the Treble and Bass pots will react to the new component
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Once you get the Tone Stack Calculator running click on the Tone Stack Calculator's "Fender" tab at upper left. By settin
slider (bottom left) to 68% you get 6800 ohms to equal the Deluxe Reverb's fixed 6800 ohm Mid resistor. You can doub
any component in the tone stack schematic to change its value so it's easy to see what happens to the control mo
when you change the 100k slope resistor to 56k or adjust the value of the Mid resistor. The frequency response graph on
will change as you alter component values or move the Bass and Treble pot sliders (at bottom left). Just playing with
sliders and watching the graph will tell you a lot about the interactive nature of the TMB (treble mid bass) tone stack. T
Stack Calculator is a very cool tool.
If you do install the Tone Stack Calculator be sure and see how a 25KL and 100KL Mid pot can act as a "Raw" co
boost the signal compared to a 6.8k resistor or 10KA pot.
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Change the tone stack caps and resistors to suit your taste.
65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb Tone Stack Part Numbers:
Tone Slope R6, Treble cap C2, Bass cap C3, Mid cap C4, Mid resistor R9
Tone Slope R18, Treble cap C7, Bass cap C8, Mid cap C9, Mid resistor R21
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Another more extensive modification option is to upgrade the power transformer but either of these mods will decrease th
touch sensitivity, playability and charm so it's not for everyone. I recommend you try the larger filter cap before messing w
power transformer.
WARNING: The first two Deluxe Reverb filter caps can hold their full charge if the amp is shut down with the S
switch in Standby (disconnected). You MUST check for voltage at all the filter caps before trying this mod. If v
above 25 volts is present then turn the amp on and make the amp ready to play by closing the Standby switch t
the amp off. This should drain the filter caps but again, you MUST verify there is no voltage present with a volt
You can temporarily clip in a parallel 16 or 32uF 450v (or higher voltage) cap to see if you like this mod. The higher the u
the more the amp's character will change but you don't want the total capacitance of the first two caps to exceed 60
is the limit for the Deluxe Reverb's rectifier. If you don't want to try multiple caps I recommend you go with a 32uF. Alligato
new cap's + terminal to the first large cap's + terminal and connect the - to -. The filter capacitors are located in a "dog ho
to the output transformer and you'll have to remove the chassis from the cab to access it. Be careful removing the dog ho
cover because the caps might be charged with 430 volts. With the temporary cap clipped in the first filter stage will be eq
three caps added together (16uF + 16uF + 16uF = 48uF) If you like the mod then replace the first large cap with your des
larger value cap.
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First two filter caps on the right are connected in parallel. All of these caps would be 16uF from the factory. You don't wan
capacitance of the first two caps to exceed the rectifier's 60uF limit. Note the two black ground wires connected to the bo
and bottom left. The right ground wire is the power amp ground and the left is the preamp ground.
The 65 DRRI & 68 CDR's first two filter caps are 220uF 100v and 47uF 500v connected in series which is equivalent to a
600v capacitor. The 220uF cap has a 100k 1/2 watt bleeder and the 47uF has a 47k bleeder. A good upgrade is to replac
two caps with 100uF 350v (or higher voltage) paired with 220k 1/2 watt resistors for an equivalent of 50uF 700v.
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First two series caps on the right with their bleeder resistors above them.
The other AB763 amps first two caps are 70uF 350v filter caps connected in series. These two caps are equivalent to a
35uF 700v capacitor. One of the first two caps is upside down and they are connected + to -. They are accompanied by a
watt bleeder resistor connected across each cap. These caps can also be upgraded to 100uF 350v (or higher voltage) fo
more power reserve.
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The first two caps on right are wired + to - in series, You must get the polarity right on these two caps. Note the two und
jumpers on the bottom of the board. From the factory the caps are from right to left: 70uF 350v, 70uF 350v, 20uF 350v, 2
20uF 350v. Note the two black ground wires, one connected at bottom left (preamp ground) and one connected at top rig
amp ground).
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Tremolo is injected at point Y (center of layout) using the yellow wire from the Intensity Pot right terminal. The connectio
marked in red "Inject Tremolo" label. Simply move that wire from the top of the 220k Mixing resistor to the bottom of th
resistor.
You can also replace the Tremolo Intensity pot with a 50KRA (reverse audio) push-pull pot. I purchased a 50KRA pot w
position when you turn the dial full down from Vintage Amp Repair's ebay store.
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No one sells a 50KRA push-pull pot but you can make one by purchasing a common 250KA (non-reverse audio) push-pu
a 50KRA pot, then swap the 50KRA disc into the push-pull pot. I like to wire the push-pull switch pull-on but if you are a h
tremolo user you can wire it pull-off .
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Splice in a SPST ON/OFF mini switch in the Tremolo Intensity pot's yellow (input) wire to completely disconnect the trem
To prevent the switch from popping when you engage tremolo you can place a 1M 1/4 watt resistor connected to grou
of the pot) on one end and to the switch terminal that the yellow wire connects to.
This mod is a little more difficult in the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb because there is no wi
trace between the Tremolo Intensity pot and the 220k Vibrato Channel Mixing resistor R35 so you must cut the trace and
the cut with the Tremolo Cut switch.
You can also reduce the tremolo circuit load and boost gain by replacing the stock 50K-RA (reverse audio) Tremolo Inten
with a 100K-RA pot.
If after this mod you would like a faster maximum tremolo speed you can reduce the size of the 100k "Max Speed" resisto
on the Tremolo Speed pot.
This mod puts a little more strain on the V5 tremolo tube so if the tremolo stops working after changing the two caps just
fresh 12AX7.
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Disk cap numbers 1, 2 and 3 match the numbers in the schematic above. Replace #1 and #2 with .02uF 400v cap
Another option is to use a shielded cable like RG174 for the tremolo driver plate wire (V5 pin 6) to stop the transmission o
tremolo signal. This is almost a 100% fix for tremolo ticking. Ground the cable shield at only one end (either end) to preve
ground loop.
If the above don't work then adding a .01uF 600v mylar cap to the tremolo roach should stop it.
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Add a .01uF 600v (or higher voltage) mylar cap across the left side of the tremolo roach to cure tremolo tick. I now recom
.01uF cap.
The ticking caused by the Vibrato is caused by improper lead dress. It can almost be "cured" by connecting a .01 mfd 60
Mylar capacitor on the 10 meg ohm resistor in the vibrato circuit. This resistor is located on the parts panel. If present, re
capacitor in parallel with the 10 meg ohm resistor (old modification). [Rob recommends doing the lead dress changes in
below]
In other words, run the cap from the junction of the 10 meg resistor and the opto-isolator to ground [as in photo above].
If this does not produce the desired results, then the leads should be dressed as follows and excessive lengths shortened
[Shortening the leads should be your last resort]
1. Dress the leads to the vibrato speed and intensity controls away from the tone controls and filter leads. [Run the vibrat
half-way between the tone control wires and filter cap wires]
2. "Bunch" the leads to the components on the parts panel which connect to the tube socket of the V5 7025 (12AX7) vibr
[They carry a very strong signal]
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To short the plug insert a bare wire all the way through the connector--there's a hole in the end of the prong so run the wi
way through then solder both ends of the wire to the plug. Be generous with the solder. Trim the wire flush at both ends a
done.
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The 220k 1/2 watt power tube grid leak resistors are on the far left end of the circuit board.
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Simply replace the 12AT7 1M grid leak resistor with a 1MA pot. The Dwell control is a reverb circuit master volum
12AT7 1M grid leak resistor clipped or removed. 1MA pot wired in its place.
The Reverb driver 1M grid leak works with the 500pF Reverb Filter cap to form a CR (capacitance-resistance) high pass
a corner freq of 318Hz (everything below 318Hz is cut). By replacing the 1M grid leak with a 1MA pot you will not only cu
amount of guitar signal entering the reverb driver as you turn down the Dwell pot but you will lower the CR corner freq as
which will allow more low freqs into the reverb circuit.
Place your dwell pot or trimmer wherever you want. Remove the 1M resistor. Wire the pot's left terminal to any ground. W
right terminal to the now empty right resistor eyelet (or turret). Wire the pot's center terminal (wiper) to V3 (12AT7) pin 7.
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The 220k Channel Mixing resistor on the left is the Normal Channel's, the Vibrato Channel's resistor is on the right. Origi
by John Chabalko.
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For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue & 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb the Normal Channel Mixing resistor is R12. The V
Channel Mixing resistor is R35. The circuit board has these parts labeled.
You can also go the other way and decrease the wet signal strength by upping the Reverb Attenuation resistor value
for 24% attenuation or 1M for 82%, or 1.5M like on the 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb, but before you change the resistor v
12AU7 in the V3 Reverb Driver socket in place of the standard 12AT7. You might be happy with the cut in reverb signal w
simple tube swap.
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Decreasing the value of the 470k Reverb Attenuation resistor will boost the wet reverb signal level. Increasing the val
decrease the wet signal.
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For the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue the Reverb Attenuation resistor is R32. The 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb has a 1.
resistor. The circuit boards have this part labeled.
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This is an Ice Pick Cap on a 5F6A Bassman but it works the same way in the AB763. Just put the cap around the 82
Negative Feedback resistor.
Extra 10uF cap from bias pot wiper to ground. Note the cap polarity, positive + to ground because the circuit deals with
voltage.
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This is one of those mods that's much easier to implement during a new kit build.
Solder a .0022uF bypass cap around the 220k V4A Grid Leak resistor.
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This .002uF cap from reverb pan input to ground was used in the AA1069 and AA270 silverface amps. I prefer the A1
shown at top because it cleans up the pan input and output.
Solder a .01uF bypass cap around the 220k V4A Grid Leak resistor to darken the reverb tone.
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Turns the Bright Switch into a Boost Switch. Remove the blue stuff and replace it with the red. Note the Normal Chann
stack's mid .047uF and bass .1uF caps are not changed even though they are shown in red.
These mods were designed to be coupled with an additional gain stage so they by themselves will alter the Norm
Channel's tone but not really in the way intended. You may or may not like what they do but they should work re
with gain or boost pedals.
The Cool Mod lowers the value of the Normal Channel first gain stage cathode bypass cap from 25uF to 5uF to reduce t
emphasis on lower bass frequencies which helps keep the overdrive tone tight.
The mod adds a 220k grid stopper resistor to the Normal Channel's second gain stage (V1B) which helps prevent blockin
distortion which comes in handy when you add a gain stage between V1A and V1B like the original Dumble AB763 Mod
added grid stopper also helps when you hammer the amp with a big boost or gain pedal. Another option here is to paralle
220k grid stopper with a 390pF bright cap if you want to add some highs.
The Cool Mod adds a local negative feedback loop to the Normal Channel's second gain stage (V1B). It's negative
feedback because the plate is 180 degrees out of phase with the grid. The mod connects V1B's plate back to the grid thr
22M resistor and .047uF (400v or higher) cap.
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A 22M to 44M resistor and .047uF 400v+ cap connect the preamp grid and plate together to form a local negative feedb
The mod can also be used on the "A" triode pins 1 and 2.
Like most amplifier negative feedback loops this mod will reduce distortion, tighten the transition from clean to
slightly reduce gain. At first blush I was going to recommend not using this mod on the first stage of amplification becau
cap fails as a short it could inject high voltage into the guitar circuitry but even if this does happen the large value feedba
will limit the current to 18 micro amps (.018 milliamp) or less so it's not a concern. This mod would be of relatively little us
first gain stage anyway since it is rarely overdriven.
If this NFB loop tightens up the tone too much try a larger value resistor like a 44M. The larger the resistor the less negat
feedback gets through to the grid. This is a pretty cool yet extremely simple circuit that should be experimented with in al
gain preamps.
The Cool Mod also reduces the size of the Normal Channel coupling cap by half, going from .047uF to .022uF to trim som
unneeded low frequencies which will tighten up the overdrive tone.
The Cool Mod also alters the Normal Channel tone stack with a change from a 250pF to a 330pF Treble cap which boost
mids and allows the Treble tone control to reach deeper into the mids. A 1.8k "minimum bass" resistor is added to the ton
that keeps the bass from falling off a cliff as you approach the minimum Bass pot setting. The downside is it slightly limits
you can set the bass. The 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb has an 18k minimum bass resistor in the same position. You can ad
resistor to any AB763 by replacing the wire that runs between the Bass and Middle pots (or Middle resistor) with an 18k r
The mod also replaces the 10KA (audio or log taper) Middle pot with a 100KB (linear) pot which acts as a "Raw Control."
1/10 of the Mid pot movement is equivalent to the entire original 10KA Mid pot. As you roll in more Mid control the mid sc
removed and the signal is boosted across the frequency spectrum.
The Boost Switch works as a standard "Raw Switch" which lifts the tone stack's ground effectively removing it from the
which completely removes the famous blackface mid scoop and offers up a big boost in signal.
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The Rock/Jazz Switch in the Jazz position filters out some bass and mid frequencies. Note the optional separate "Boos
SPST (single post single throw) switch between the Volume pot and Input jack.
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The only difference from above is the Boost Switch is shown on a 250KA (audio or log) push-pull Treble pot.
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To convert the Band-Master into a Vibrolux or Tremolux you need to replace the Band-Master's 4.7k B+4 power resistor (
the "dog house") with a 10k 2 watt to match the Vibrolux's lower preamp voltages. If you want to simulate the Vibrolux
rectifier in the Band-Master you can insert a 62 ohm 5 watt resistor between the rectifier and first filter cap to get
drop and sag of a GZ34.
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The filter cap board is located under the "dog house" cover outside the chassis next to the output transformer. Replace th
between the "B+4" and "B+3" label above with a 10k 2 watt resistor.
Next swap out the Band-Master's 500pF phase inverter coupling cap for the a .001uF (1000pF) 200v (or higher voltage).
Replace the Band-Master's 500pF phase inverter coupling cap with a .001uF 200v.
To convert a Band-Master to a Pro, Concert or no-reverb Vibroverb the only mod required is the phase inverter coupling c
change shown above. You don't need to modify the power resistor. Another mod to consider for a Vibroverb conversion is
a Tremolo Cut Switch which will boost the amp's gain to mimic the 3 preamp gain stage Vibroverb. For a Super Reverb o
conversion change out the two tone stack's mid caps for .022uF 200v (or higher voltage). I really like the JBL D130F 15"
or Weber's version, the Ceramic California 15 (4 ohm, 80 watt, paper dome), for the Vibroverb.
It's true the Vibrolux and Vibroverb have an 8 ohm output transformer secondary where the Band-Master has a 4 ohm bu
make no difference if you connect a matching speaker.
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I'm a head amp fan so I usually leave my head amps in their original cab but there are several sources for nice blackface
cabs to place your Band-Master chassis. The standards are 1x12 for the Vibrolux conversion, 1x15 for the Vibroverb and
the Pro and Super Reverb. I've heard good things about Mojotone's cabs and Mather Cabs. If you order a cab be sure an
them it's for a Band-Master chassis.
Convert a 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue (DRRI) Into a 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb (68 CDR)
Differences between the 65 Deluxe Reverb Reissue and 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb:
Reverb and tremolo are available on both Vintage & Custom channels. On the 68 CDR they call the Vibrato Channe
"Vintage" Channel and they call the Normal Channel the "Custom" Channel. Both channels go through the third prea
stage V4B so both channels are now in phase so you can jumper channels for a thicker tone.
Negative feedback is cut in half by doubling the size of the NFB resistor. Less feedback thickens up the clean tone w
harmonics, slows the transition from clean to dirt but adds some resistor hiss. Some users find the extra hiss objectio
Personally I like the lower feedback of the 68 CDR and feel the hiss is worth the trouble.
Vintage (Vibrato) channel bright cap has been removed from the volume pot.
The reverb circuit uses a 1.5M vs 470k Reverb Attenuation resistor (R32) which adds attenuation and slows the actio
reverb pot as it's turned up making the control less twitchy.
The Custom (Normal) Channel's tone stack has a smaller .02 Mid cap and an extra 18k resistor between the Bass po
Mid resistor. The smaller Mid caps shifts the mid band and mid scoop up frequency. The 18k resistor acts as a "Bass
and keeps the bass from falling off a cliff as you approach minimum Bass pot settings but it limits how low you can se
bass. If you want to be able to set less bass then lower the value of the Bass Floor resistor. Some 68 CDR owners h
jumpered around this resistor to allow lower bass settings so you may not want to add this resistor to your 6
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Step 1. Do the very simple Normal Channel Reverb Mod. This mod is exactly how the 68 CDR sends the Custom (No
Channel through the reverb and tremolo effects and third preamp stage. You will also be able to jumper the channels tog
after this mod for a slightly fatter tone. If you think you may alter the voicing of one of the channels then I recommend you
robrob Normal Channel Reverb Mod instead to add reverb and tremolo to the Normal Channel. The robrob Mod retains t
Normal Channel's coupling cap so you can change its value to alter the Normal Channel's voice. For the 68 CDR style m
connect the top of Resistors R23 & R11 with a jumper wire and clip or remove cap C5 (both mods upper left in layout abo
Step 2. Change the Negative Feedback Resistor R64 to 1.5k or do the 3-Way Negative Feedback Switch Mod. The 3-
has an 820 ohm and a 1.5k NFB resistors so you can select normal 65 DRRI feedback or no feedback or 68 CDR feedba
Step 3. Remove or clip a leg of the Vibrato Channel Bright Cap C10 located next to the Vibrato Volume pot. You coul
the cap on a switch. Use a SPST mini switch to break the connection between the Bright cap and Volume pot center term
Step 4. Modify the Normal Channel tone stack to match the 68 CDR Custom Channel. Change the Mid capacitor C4 t
Step 5. Change the Reverb Attenuation Resistor R32 to 470k. This will add attenuation and slow the action of the reve
it's turned up making the control less twitchy. This is a rather minor mod and can be skipped in my opinion.
The 68 CDR schematic calls the 18k 1/2 watt Bass Floor resistor R72. To insert the resistor you must cut the trace on t
control board that runs from the Bass pot to the intersection of the 6.8k Mid resistor R9 and the C4 Mid cap. Then bridge
trace with the 18k resistor. If the 18k resistor limits your minimum bass setting too much you can try a smaller value resis
12k. Some 68 CDR owners have removed this resistor so I do not recommend adding the R72 18k Bass Floor resisto
your 65 DRRI.
Weber Ceramic Signature 10" and 12" for the budget minded. Some actually prefer the Sigs to the more expensive 10
12F150. Four Sig 10's in a Super Reverb sound absolutely glorious.
The 68 Custom Deluxe Reverb comes with a British voiced 12” Celestion G12V-70 and the amp gets great reviews.
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Eminence GA-SC64 Vintage American Voice, "Tones of 1964 still ring true in this vintage voiced speaker by seasoned a
George Alessandro. Well balanced from top to bottom, the GA-SC64’s warm, dynamic character lends itself to vintage am
well as modern gain and distortion. The traditional build materials offer warmth, dynamics, low note articulation and prope
distorted harmonic content layering."
Eminence Cannabis Rex "The Eminence Cannabis Rex guitar speaker lets your laid-back style come through. Clean an
with lots of body and sparkle. Smokey smooth with high-end definition. Country, Jazz or Classical guitarists take notice."
JBL D120F Loud, clean, efficient but heavy and adds some mids the amps needs. Best defense against ham fisted drum
You can always find a blown one and have it reconed.
Celestion 12M Greenback Warm and Woody with relatively early breakup.
Eminence GB128 Vintage British Voice, "The Eminence Legend GB128 guitar speaker helps clean up your act. Cleaner
voiced tone with a full low end, warm, throaty mids and a very open top end. Turn up the volume and turn back the clock
The WGS ET65 is an amazing replacement speaker for Fender amps even before you consider its low low price. "The E
creamy lows blend with tight midrange and sparkling highs for some of the best tones ever created. This speaker is for cl
rock, country, and blues. Upgrade from your Celestion™ G12-65."
You need to disconnect one tube from each side of the push-pull pairing. For example in the Fender Twin Reverb you wo
disconnect tubes V7 & V10 (see layout below).
A simple SPST (single post single throw) ON-OFF mini-toggle switch will do the job. Insert the switch between the power
cathode (pin 8) ground wire. Switch closed is normal quad tube power, switch open will turn off two tubes.
For best tone and amp loading you should make a speaker impedance adjustment up one notch. Since current into the o
transformer is cut in half we need twice the load on the transformer secondary to compensate. For example connect a 16
speaker to an 8 ohm speaker jack but most amps will run fine with this amount of impedance mismatch.
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Insert ON-OFF switch between power tube socket pin 8 (cathode) and ground. Note how V7 and V8 share the blue o
transformer wire--they are in parallel so we can turn off V7 with the cathode switch. The same goes for V9 and V10--the
the brown output transformer wire.
Replace V1 or V2 with a 12AY7. You can go the opposite direction and reduce preamp gain by replacing the 12AX7 in V
(Normal Channel) or V2 (Vibrato Channel) with a lower gain 12AY7. The 12AY7 was used as the first gain stage for many
tweed amps and will offer up more clean headroom because its lower gain will reduce preamp distortion. This swap can
the distortion balance between preamp and power amp to favor power tube distortion when you combine it with the V6 ph
inverter tube change as discussed in the next paragraph.
Try a 12AX7 in the V6 Phase Inverter for more power tube distortion. The 12AX7's extra gain will hit the power tubes
hotter signal. This is a way to shift the AB763's preamp/poweramp distortion balance toward the power tubes. To give it a
move the V1 12AX7 into the V6 socket and use the Vibrato Channel.
Replace the V3 12AT7 Reverb Driver tube with a lower gain 12AU7 to give you more usable room on the Reverb Con
Reverb pot can be a little touchy with a usable range from 0 to 3 or 4. A 12AU7 won't push the reverb circuit as hard so th
range can extend up to 5 or 6 on the dial and make dialing in just the right amount of reverb easier. The lower gain 12AU
also reduce reverb circuit noise.
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Another option to tame the reverb level is to install a 7247 or 12DW7 tube in V4. These tubes are dual triodes but th
is a 12AU7 equivalent with lower gain than a 12AX7. The B triode is a 12AX7 equivalent so the V4B preamp stage stays
gain. Decreasing the reverb recovery's gain makes the Reverb Control less touchy, somehow enhances the reverb tone a
decrease reverb noise.
To compensate for the different power tube impedance we need to adjust the speaker impedance. Since the little
put out much less current they need a higher impedance load. For a big bottle amp with a 4 ohm output transfor
secondary we need to connect an 8 ohm speaker. With a 2 ohm secondary we need a 4 ohm speaker or with an 8
secondary we need a 16 ohm speaker.
JJ 6V6S power tubes are good for 500 plate volts so they can handle 6L6 voltage but for normal 6V6 tubes you must do
something to lower the plate voltage to keep from frying them. For amps with tube rectifiers you can plug in a lower rated
like the 5R4 (less sag) or 5Y3 (more sag) to bring down the voltage. For amps with solid state rectifiers like the Twin Rev
Single and Dual Showman you can plug the amp into a variac and turn down the amp's input voltage. A bucking transform
lowest setting may also do the job.
You may also need to adjust the bias after installing the 6V6 tubes. See this to measure and adjust the bias.
The amp may sound more sterile because the low voltage preamp and phase inverter are tuned to drive the 6V6 so you'l
power tube distortion. If you plan to permanently swap to the 6L6 then I recommend you raise the preamp and phase inv
voltage to better drive the 6L6 power tubes.
Everyone that moves up from small bottle power tubes to large should measure their 6.3v heater voltage and make su
10% lower than spec (lower than 5.7v). The extra current draw of the big tubes can over tax some power transformers.
Keep an eye on your power transformer's temperature when running the big power tubes but be careful because the
transformer can get hot enough to burn your fingers. I use an infra red no-touch thermometer to monitor amp component
temperatures. Take a measurement with the normal 6V6 tubes so you have a baseline temp to compare to how hot it get
big tubes.
Replacing the GZ34 tube rectifier with a solid state rectifier like the plug-n-play Weber WS1 Copper Cap will supply the a
little more voltage and current to better drive the big 6L6 tubes.
You will probably need to turn up the bias to get the most from your 6L6 tubes. See this to measure and adjust the bias.
To run two power tubes you pull the two outside power tubes, which in the Twin Reverb are V7 and V10. In the Single an
Showman the outside power tubes are V5 and V8 (tube numbering starts with the first preamp tube on the far right).
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The plate voltage will be higher with only two tubes pulling current through the power supply so you may need to adjust t
bias. See this to measure and adjust the bias.
You must consider the power tube plate voltage when running 2 6V6 tubes. With only two small power tubes pulling c
through the power supply all the voltages in the amp will be higher than normal. JJ 6V6S power tubes are good fo
plate volts so they can handle the Twin Reverb's voltage but for normal 6V6 tubes you must do something to lower the pl
voltage to keep from frying them. For amps with tube rectifiers you can plug in a lower rated rectifier like the 5R4 (less sa
(more sag) to bring down the voltage. For amps with solid state rectifiers like the Twin Reverb and Single and Dual Show
can plug the amp into a variac and turn down the amp's input voltage. A bucking transformer at its lowest setting may als
job.
To run two power tubes you pull the two outside power tubes, which in the Twin Reverb are V7 and V10. In the Single an
Showman the outside power tubes are V5 and V8 (tube numbering starts with the first preamp tube on the far right).
You will probably need to adjust the bias when running two 6V6 tubes. See this to measure and adjust the bias.
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Jack mounted circuit on the left, circuit board version on the right. Download the high resolution pdf here and DIYLC fi
In the High position input impedance is 1M and grid stopper resistance is 33k--exactly as the 5E3 Deluxe.
In the Low position input impedance is 62k (1M in parallel with 66k) and grid stopper resistance is 33k.
The factory 5E3 has a Low input impedance 138k and grid stopper resistance of 68k but this mod will give us a tone that
close to factory that I'll buy you a case of beer if you can hear a difference.
Rectifier Input: 348VAC (Schematic lists the power transformer as 320VAC with 117v wall power)
Heaters: 7.1VAC Yes, that's too high, it should be 6.3VAC +/- 10% or 5.7v to 6.9v.
B+1: 465 with V5 plate 463, V6 plate 463 (Schematic lists 440v for B+1, plates and screens)
B+2: 466 with a .65v drop across 470 ohm screen resistors for 1.4 milliamps of screen current (Schematic lists 440v
B+3: 455 with 237, 240 on phase inverter plates (Schematic lists B+3 of 430v, plates 225v)
B+4 430 with V2 plates 290, V1 plates 285 (Schematic lists B+4 of 375v, plates 275v)
B+1 lowered from 465v DC to 416v, 49 volts lower than with straight 125.4 VAC wall power.
I highly recommend you run your older amps through a bucking transformer. The amp and tubes will last longer
sound more authentic.
All the Differences Between the AB763 Vibroverb and AA1069 Bandmaster Reverb
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*The Tone Stack Mid Cap was .047uF in the Blackface Vibroverb but .022uF in the Super Reverb. I'm a fan of the .022uF
Cap.
*Note the Phase Inverter Coupling Cap is shown in red with an asterisk because Blackface head amps used a 500pF cou
and the combo amps used a .001uF like this silverface amp. Fender used the smaller cap to trim some bass because the
matching blackface extension cabs were closed back and had extended bass response. If you play mostly clean or use m
open back cabs the .001uF cap would probably be best, but if you play a lot of overdrive the 500pF might be best for a tig
overdrive tone.
*Using a 5U4GA Rectifier tube will bump the B+ voltage up to AB763 Vibroverb levels. Using a GZ34 like the Vibroverb w
the B+ well beyond the Vibroverb levels because the Bandmaster Reverb's Power Transformer puts out 15 more volts th
Vibroverb.
Replace the Phase Inverter Plate Load resistors with 82K (V6A) and 100K (V6B) 1/2 watt rating) resistors.
Replace the Power Tube Grid Leak resistors with 220K 1/2 watt resistors.
Remove or clip the Stability Caps connected to the Power Tube Grids (pin 5).
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I recommend keeping the AA1069 Bias Balance circuit and just add a 25k Bias pot so you have both adjustability to set t
and a Bias Balance pot to match bias between the two power tubes.
The AB763 Vibroverb came with an 8 ohm output transformer with 820 / 47 ohm negative feedback circuit. The Bandmas
Reverb uses a 4 ohm output transformer with 820 / 100 negative feedback circuit. The different NFB circuit compensates
ohm transformer's lower output voltage. As long as the Bandmaster Reverb is connected to a 4 ohm speaker load (typica
ohm speakers) the outcome is the same.
All of the AB763 mods on this webpage apply to silverface amps that have been blackfaced.
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Replace the original 15k resistor with a 10k resistor + 25K trim pot. Set the trim pot to maximum resistance before install
bias will be set to coolest. You must bias the amp after this mod. The trim pot's upper right terminal is soldered to the
the bias pot for a ground connection. The trim pot is wired as a variable resistor with the trim pot's lower right termin
connected to anything.
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Watch closely for power tube red plating when you start the amp up after this mod in case you set the Bias trim pot incorr
You will need to bias the amp after this mod. See this for info on biasing an amp.
AB763 Vibroverb with reverb but tremolo has been deleted. V5 was used for tremolo so it is unused in this layout. No
"Optional Tremolo Load Resistor" at center left of the circuit board. It applies the same circuit load as the trem
keep the Vibrato Channel's gain exactly the same as a normal AB763 blackface amp.
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Click the image to see the hi-res version. The pdf is available here. The DIYLC file is available here.
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Some of the major differences between the Twin Reverb and Deluxe Reverb are highlighted.
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The 65 DRRI has the AB763 circuit on a PCB. Click the image for the full size schematic.
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The 68 CDR is not a silverface amp, it is an almost exact copy of the 64 Deluxe Reverb Reissue with just a few valuable
Click the image for the full size schematic.
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For more info on the AB763 circuit see How the AB763 Deluxe Reverb Works.
References
RCA Corporation, RCA Receiving Tube Manual, RC30.
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RCA Receiving
Tube Manual
$17.95
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Merlin Blencowe, Designing Tube Preamps for Guitar and Bass, 2nd Edition.
Designing Tube
Preamps for...
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Fidelity Valve...
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Valve Amplifiers
$71.71
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Richard Kuehnel, Circuit Analysis of a Legendary Tube Amplifier: The Fender Bassman 5F6-A, 3rd Edition.
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Circuit Analysis
of a Legendary...
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Richard Kuehnel, Vacuum Tube Circuit Design: Guitar Amplifier Preamps, 2nd Edition.
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Circuit Design:...
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Vacuum Tube
Circuit Design:...
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Construction of...
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Neumann & Irving, Guitar Amplifier Overdrive, A Visual Tour It's fairly technical but it's the only book written specifically a
guitar amplifier overdrive. It includes many graphs to help make the material easier to understand.
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Guitar Amplifier
Overdrive
$38.00
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T.E. Rutt, Vacuum Tube Triode Nonlinearity as Part of The Electric Guitar Sound
By Rob Robinette
[ How the 5E3 Deluxe Works ] [ Deluxe Models ] [ My 5E3 Build ] [ The Trainwreck Pages ] [ Fender Input Jacks ] [ B9A
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