Report For Sewing Workshop

UNION PERUVIAN UNIVERSITY
EP OF ENGINEERING AND ARCHITECTURE

CIVIL ENGINEERING – CYCLE V - “A”
COURSE:
CUTTING AND SEWING WORKSHOP
PRESENTED BY :
Pacheco Mayta Henry David
Teacher:
Mamani Cachicatari Emilio
Juliaca, November 2017

INTRODUCTION:
What we should first learn in the cutting and sewing workshop is to make
our own molds according to our measurements and tastes, for this we will
follow these steps:
• we will take action
• We will put them on paper taking into account criteria to assign the
measurements since a few more centimeters will have to be assigned
on some occasions.
• we will transcribe it to our fabric or material
• we will cut the material
❖ we will precede joining each piece
THEORETICAL FRAMEWORK:
THE ROCKING MACHINE.
Industrial sewing machines that perform group 500 stitches or edge

stitches are known as overlockers or owerlok machines; they are also
commonly known as overcasting machines.
The type of stitch that these machines make is used for overcasting
and joining garment pieces, resulting in very elastic seams that
prevent the edges of the fabric from fraying.
Next, we are going to list the most characteristic elements of the
serger:
V THE CONE HOLDER:
Located on the back of the board, it houses the thread cones for stitch
formation. Unlike the straight lockstitch machine, the owelok does
not require bobbins to feed the lower threads, but is fed directly from
the thread cones of the cone holder. This characteristic means that the
threading of the machine has to be carried out with the greatest
attention, due to the high number of organs and thread guides that
guide the threads.
{ TENSIONERS:
The regulation of the threads is controlled by a tensioner for each of
them, with the particularity that the thread tensioners that feed the
loopers have weaker springs than the tensioners that feed the needles.
Care should be taken not to interchange the springs to avoid stitch
deficiencies.
{ THREAD TAKER:
There are two types of thread take-up, the one for the needles and the
one for the safety stitch looper.
Unlike straight lockstitch machines, the needle thread take-up for
owelok is rigid and its location is on the needle bar itself. The safety
stitch looper thread take-up is a cam thread take-up, located on the
left side of the head.
{ WATERS:
Depending on the number of threads involved in the stitch, one or
two needles may be present.
• NEEDLE PLATE:
In the formation of the stitch, the needle plate has a particular mission
that consists of locating the overcasting chain on a finger, of variable
width, which feeds the seam subsequently to the fabric.
To avoid deficiencies in stitch formation, the needle plate must not
have needle pits and, especially, the finger must be free of scratches
or burrs.
{ FEED TEETH:
Overlocking machines have a differential feed, which is the most
appropriate to eliminate possible tension differences that may occur
in the fabric. In this way, defects due to stretching or gathering of the
fabric layers can be alleviated.
• ANCHORS:
The serger machine can have up to three different loopers for stitch
formation.
Generally, they are threaded through holes and thread guides housed
in the looper itself, although there is a type called blind looper that is
not threaded, making the stitch using a hook or fixed clamp system
that drags the thread to its correct position. in stitch formation.
• BLADES:
This device cuts excess threads from the fabric at the same time as
sewing.
Depending on the chosen overcast chain width, the knives can vary
their position laterally.
The condition of the blades must be perfect to avoid tears in the cut to
be made.
STITCH TYPES:
Sewing machines make a wide variety of stitches, flat and decorative. The
ISO 4915:1991 standard recognizes more than 30 types of stitches, the
formation of which requires from one to seven ends. Flat stitches are
categorized into four
types: Lockstitch , Overlock , Covering and Chain Stitch .
V Backstitch
Lockstitch, also known as straight , flat or lockstitch , is the most common
stitch, performed by most home and industrial sewing machines that use
two ends, one of which passes through the needle and the other originates
on a coil or shuttle. Each end remains on the same side of the material being
sewn, intertwining with the other thanks to the movement of the hook or
shuttle. The flat stitch can be done anywhere on the material being sewn,
not necessarily near the edge.
V Zig Zag
The Zig Zag stitch is a geometric variant of the straight stitch. To create the
zig zag, a cam attached to the needle bar creates the back-and-forth motion.
This stitch is used to prevent fraying of fabric, when sewing stretch
materials, and for basting.
ZIG ZAG
V Remeshing
The Overlock, also known as Ovelock or Fillet stitch, is formed with one to
four ends, one or two needles and one or two loopers. Overlockers or Fillet
machines are usually equipped with blades that cut or create the selvedge
immediately in front of the stitch. The most common overlockers use two to
four ends, and often the same machine can be configured to perform
different stitch variations. Machines that use five or more plies can also
create a chain stitch with one needle and looper, and an Overlock stitch with
the remaining needle and loopers. This combination is known as a safety
stitch . A similar stitch, created with two
needles and two loopers is known as mock safety . Overlockers are
commonly used to sew knitted or stretch fabrics, lightweight fabric
garments that do not require open seams, and to protect edges from fraying.
V Coater
The Covering Stitch, also known as:
As Collarín , Collaretera or Coverstitch , it is formed with two or more
needles, and one or two shuttles. Like flat and chain stitches they can be
done anywhere on the material being sewn. A shuttle manipulates a thread
under the material being sewn, forming a cover stitch next to the needle
threads. An additional shuttle on the material can form a cover stitch on the
material. The needle ends create parallel rows while the shuttle ends cross
them from one side to the other.
V Chain stitch
The Chain stitch is formed by means of a needle and a shuttle, which forms
loops under the material being sewn. This stitch was widely used in early
sewing machines, but was replaced by the straight stitch because it easily
came undone by pulling or cutting one of the ends that compose it.
MACHINERY USED:
A sewing machine is a machine used to sew fabric and other materials with
thread . They were invented during the first industrial
revolutionhttps://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Revoluci%c3%b3n_Industrial to reduce the
amount of sewing work in textile companies. Since the invention of the first
sewing machine, attributed to Thomas Saint in London, in 1790, its
efficiency and productivity in the textile industry has been significantly
improved.
Home sewing machines are designed so that a person can sew individual
items using a certain type of stitch. In a modern sewing machine, the fabric
slides through the machine without the need for needles or thimbles,
completing the task more quickly than with manual sewing. Industrial
machines, on the other hand, are larger and faster, facilitating better fabric
production.
Sewing machines can make a variety of straight or patterned stitches. They
include means for dragging, holding and moving the fabric under the
sewing needlehttps://es.wikipedia.org/wiki/Aguja to form the stitch pattern. Most
home and some industrial sewing machines use chain or chain stitches .
SEWING NEEDLES:
The needle has several characteristics that determine the effectiveness of
stitch formation. The sewing machine needle should always be straight and
sharp for optimal sewing. The normal sewing machine needle is divided
into the following parts:
V Heel: It is the part of the needle that is fixed in the grip at the bottom
of the needle bar arm. It has a cylindrical shape and sometimes has a
longitudinal section, which helps for exact positioning of the needle
in the machine.
V Cone: It is the end of the heel, it has a truncated cone to facilitate its
insertion into the needle bar.
V Trunk: It also has a truncated cone shape, connects the upper end of
the needle with lower part.
V Grooves: This is a channel excavated along the trunk in the front of
the shoulder eye and has the function of containing the upper thread as
it passes through the fabric, in order not to cause friction. In some
cases, it may be a slot on the back of the needle, but smaller.
V Eye and tip: The eye is the hole where the thread is placed, it is
generally ovoid-shaped. Under the eye is the tip, which must always
be sharp.
V Gauges: currently there is a wide variety of gauges for different types
of fabrics
CONCLUSIONS:
After carrying out the different corresponding steps, it must be taken into
account that it is not only about making a garment, but we must also satisfy
people, giving our best work and thus being satisfied.
THANK YOU
TEACHER
FOR YOUR
COUNCIL

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UNION PERUVIAN UNIVERSITY

EP OF ENGINEERING AND ARCHITECTURE

Mamani Cachicatari Emilio

Juliaca, November 2017

Industrial sewing machines that perform group 500 stitches or edge

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