100% found this document useful (1 vote)
436 views12 pages

2 Isadora Bookleten PM

Uploaded by

ostefn
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
100% found this document useful (1 vote)
436 views12 pages

2 Isadora Bookleten PM

Uploaded by

ostefn
Copyright
© © All Rights Reserved
We take content rights seriously. If you suspect this is your content, claim it here.
Available Formats
Download as PDF, TXT or read online on Scribd
You are on page 1/ 12

www.pm-patterns.

com

ISADORA
Tulle skirt for woman

French sizes
34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
FOREWORD
Tell me you’ve never ever dreamt of being a princess?!
ISADORA is a tulle skirt, fitted at the waist with an elastic. Three lengths are available: mini length (about 55 cm (21½'')), midi length (about
75 cm (29½'')) and maxi length (about 95 cm (37½'')).

MODEL
Isadora is composed of 3 parts:
- A top part made of 6 tulle panels, each panel being a half-circle. This kind of cutting layout helps minimizing volume at the waist, but still
keeps volume at the bottom of the skirt. These 6 tulle panels, sewn together, make for one single layer of tulle.
- A skirt lining, slightly shorter than the tulle skirt, to prevent any see-through trouble.
- A waistband, with an elastic inside.

This skirt can be worn for festive occasions or more lay-back social events. It will depend on how you accessorize the outfit. In any case,
it’s highly important you fell beautiful and at ease with your skirt, without feeling you wear a costume. That means the tulle layer must be airy,
but with enough weight for a lovely drape, and soft to the touch. That explains why I advise you to choose some tulle that is smooth, soft, and
with body.
Among the tulles I tested, here are two references that would fit the bill:
- Oeko-tex® "souple uni" tulle from Les filles à pois (https://www.lesfillesapois.fr),
- "Extra Soft" tulle from Stragier (https://www.stragier.com/).

I didn’t test all the tulle providers in the world and you will probably find other providers stocking good quality tulle with all the necessary
features. However, for a prettier Isadora skirt, do not use stiff tulle, rough to the skin, and those that are too lightweight or thin.

The same applies to the lining and the waistband (both being cut from the same fabric): my piece of advice is to choose a rather thick lining,
with a nice drape. My favorite fabric for this project is the Venezia lining (available at both providers cited above), but other fabrics may share the
same features.

2 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden


ISADORA / ENGLISH

SUPPLIES
YARGADE

The necessary amount of fabrics (tulle and lining):

YARDAGE (yd) 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
* Tulle 150 cm (60'') WIDTH / 160 cm (63'') WDTH
MINI 4⅜ / 4⅜
MIDI 11 / 5¾
MAXI 13⅛ / 13⅛

* Lining 140 cm (55'') WIDTH


MINI 1½
MIDI 2
MAXI 2¼

IMPORTANT: pay attention to the width!

The amount of tulle is for a skirt with ONE layer of tulle. If you want more layers, you will have to multiply the amount by the number of layers
you want. The more layers you’ll have, the more volume you’ll get.
The skirts shown in the pictures on the website are all one-single tulle layer skirt.

NB: seam allowances and hems are included.

NOTIONS

- 3cm (1¼'') wide elastic (T34: 65cm (¾ yd); T36: 69cm (¾ yd); T38: 73cm (⅞ yd); T40: 77cm (⅞ yd); T42: 81cm (⅞ yd); T44: 85cm (⅞ yd);
T46: 90cm (1 yd) ; T48: 96cm (1⅛ yd); T50: 102cm (1⅛ yd); and T52: 108cm (1¼ yd)),
- Matching thread.

Commercial use is strictly forbidden - www.pm-patterns.com | 3


PATTERN PIECES
PATTERN PIECES

The pattern is made of the following pieces:


- #1 – Tulle skirt, cut 6 in tulle,
- #1-a, Tulle skirt for MINI version,
- #1-b, Tulle skirt for MIDI version,
- #1-c, Tulle skirt for MAXI version,
- #2 – Skirt lining, cut 2 on fold of lining,
- #2-a, Skirt lining for MINI version,
- #2-b, Skirt lining for MIDI version,
- #2-c, Skirt lining for MAXI version,
- #3 – Waistband, cut one on fold of lining.

CHOOSING THE SIZE

This garment is tightened at the waist by an elastic inserted into the waistband. Both waist and hips measurements will be needed to choose
the right size.
For a given size, the waistband of Isadora has been designed to have enough ease to get past the hips. However, if your hips are larger than the
theoretical hip measurement of the given size, check that the waistband has enough ease. Here’s the length of the finished waistband, when
stretched to the max:

French size (cm/inch) 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52


Waist 62/24⅜ 64/25¼ 68/26¾ 72/28⅜ 76/29⅞ 80/31½ 85/33½ 91/35⅞ 97/38¼ 103/40½
Hips 86/33⅞ 90/35⅜ 94/37 98/38⅝ 102/40⅛ 106/41¾ 111/43¾ 117/46 123/48½ 129/50¾
Stretched finished waistband 94/37 98/38⅝ 102/40⅛ 106/41¾ 110/43⅜ 114/44⅞ 119/46⅞ 125/49¼ 131/51⅝ 137/54

Example: for someone with a waist measurement being 68 cm (26¾) and a hip measurement being 103 cm (40½), it would be better to sew
a french size 40 rather than a french size 38. Let’s break the numbers: french size 38 has a stretched waistband measurement equal to 102 cm
(40⅛). That means that a 103 cm (40½) hip measurement won’t fit (except if the person gets the skirt from the shoulders down).

CHOOSING THE VERSION

Once the size has been chosen, pick the length you want.
 Length of the MINI skirt, about 55 cm (21½'')
Cut pieces: #1-a, #2, and #3.

 Length of the MIDI skirt, about 75 cm (29½'')


Cut pieces: #1-b, #2, and #3.

 Length of the MAXI skirt, about 95 cm (37½'')


Cut pieces: #1-c, #2, and #3.

The length of each version is based on a 170 cm (66⅞'') height. That means that if you’re shorter, you can shorten both skirt AND lining. On
the contrary, if you're taller, you can lengthen both skirt AND lining.
Whatever case you’re in, shorten/lengthen both skirt and lining by the same amount.

4 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden


ISADORA / ENGLISH

USING PDF PATTERN


Once your order had been completed, you received an email including downloadable links. You will download the ISADORA files
through these links directly onto your computer.

This tutorial is made of 7 files that will be kept in your "My downloads" tab in your account. You can see them an download them at
will.

The ISADORA pattern is made of the following files:


 1-ISADORA-NoticeFR-pm.pdf
General presentation of the pattern and instructions regarding the printing and assembling the pattern sheet, as well as the difficulty
level, the cutting layout, the step-by-step sewing instructions, along with size chart and fabric and notions requirements. IN FRENCH.

 2-ISADORA-BookletEN-pm.pdf
General presentation of the pattern and instructions regarding the printing and assembling the pattern sheet, as well as the difficulty
level, the cutting layout, the step-by-step sewing instructions, along with size chart and fabric and notions requirements. IN ENGLISH.

 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P1-pm.pdf
 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P2-pm.pdf
Multi-size pattern sheets, to be printed and assembled at home on A4/US letter. To minimize costs and save ink, the pattern sheets
are black-and-white only.

 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm.pdf
 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-pm.pdf
 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P2-pm.pdf
Multi-size pattern sheets that can be printed in a copyshop. To minimize costs and save ink, the pattern sheet is black-and-white only.

PRINTING THE A4 / US LETTER PATTERN SHEET

The 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P1-pm and 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P2-pm files must be read with a software that manages
PDF; printing scale, and layers. I would advise to use Adobe Acrobat Reader DC (which is free here: https://get.adobe.com/fr/reader/).

The A4/US Letter pattern sheets for ISADORA are labeled “PrintAtHome”, P1 and P2. These files contain 42 sheets for P1 (landscape
format) and 18 sheets for P2 (landscape format) to glue together to get each of the whole pattern sheets. This file can be printed on any
printer.

Before printing, you can select the size(s) you need by hiding the size(s) you don’t need. Just click on the layer icon (shown as a pile) and you
will unveil the various layers of the PDF file. There one layer per size, the Elements layer, and the PDF Template layer.
To hide the size(s) you don’t need, uncheck them.

Check that, in the Print dialog box, “Actual scale” or “100%” is selected. Check your printer parameters by measuring the TEST SQUARE,
which must be 5 cm x 5 cm (2 inches x 2 inches).

You can trim or fold the small margins around the pattern sheet. Tape the pages together, following the printing layout below. Match the
print markings first and foremosts.

Commercial use is strictly forbidden - www.pm-patterns.com | 5


Once the PrintAtHome files have been printed, tape the sheets together to get each full-length sheet for ISADORA. Pages are num-
bered and tiled as follows:

 PrintAtHome P1 Sheet  PrintAtHome P2 sheet


This sheet contains the following piece: This sheet contains the following pieces:
- #1, Tulle skirt, - #2, Skirt lining,
- #1-a, MINI skirt (pages 2-7, 10-15, 18-22, 27-30), - #2-a, MINI skirt lining (pages 5-7, 9-11, 13-15),
- #1-b, MIDI skirt (pages 1-7, 9-15, 17-23, 26-31, 34-37), - #2-b, MIDI skirt lining (pages 5-8, 9-12, 13-16, 17),
- #1-c, MAXI skirt (all pages). - #2-c, MAXI skirt lining (pages 5-8, 9-12, 13-16, 17-18),
- #3, Waisband (pages 2-4).

Tip: if you don’t want to print the large numbers of sheets for the
“tulle skirt” part, you can simply print and tape pages 1 to 8 and
draw yourself the arc representing the bottom of the skirt. You will
have to be really precise in your drawing since the distance between
the small indent of the top edge (pages 4 and 5) and the bottom of
the skirt must be constant everywhere.

NB: instead of tracing each pattern piece, you can cut your pattern pieces of the chosen size directly from the printed pages and place them on
your fabric (seam allowances are included).

PRINTING THE FULL-SIZE PATTERN

The 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm, 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-pm and 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P2-pm files include


the full-size pattern sheets. These pattern sheets measure respectively 84 cm x 200 cm (33⅛'' x 78¾'') for P1A, 27 cm x 140 cm (10⅝'' x
55⅛'') for P1B and 72 cm x 120 cm (28⅜'' x 47¼'') for P2.

• Save the 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm.pdf, 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-pm.pdf and 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P2-pm


files on a USB device,
• Go to a printshop/copyshop to have it printed,
• A 5 cm x 5 cm (2 inches x 2 inches) TEST SQUARE is included on the actual-size pattern sheet. By measuring this TEST SQUARE, you
can then check that the copyshop printed the pattern sheet correctly.

Then, by overlapping the “assembly line”, printed on each 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm and 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-
pm, it will be easy to tape the whole P1 sheet.

6 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden


ISADORA / ENGLISH

CUTTING LAYOUT
The cutting layout is for reference only. Its purpose is to show how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric and how many times you need to
cut a pattern piece.

IMPORTANT:
1- Tulle has neither right/wrong side nor grainline. Placing tone side on the inside when cutting the tulle or cutting pieces lengthwise or
widthwise will not impact the drape of the finished garment.
2- It’s better to cut tulle with paper scissors or a rotary cutter. Never ever use your fabric scissors for cutting tulle: you would damage the blades!

MINI LENGTH

 TULLE - WIDTH 150cm (60'') or 160cm (63'')

 Cut 3 times #1a- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MINI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.

MIDI LENGTH

 TULLE - WIDTH 150cm (60'')

 Cut 3 times #1b- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MIDI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.

Commercial use is strictly forbidden - www.pm-patterns.com | 7


MIDI LENGTH

 TULLE - WIDTH 160cm (63'')

 Cut 3 times #1b- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MIDI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.

TULLE - LAIZE 140CM (55'') - MAXI LENGTH

 TULLE - WIDTH 150cm (60'') or 160cm (63'')

 Cut 3 times #1c- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MAXI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.

LINING - WIDTH 140CM (55'')

 Seam allowances and hems are included.

8 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden


ISADORA / ENGLISH

KEY
---------
Right side of lining Wrong side of lining Tulle Seamline

ASSEMBLING
1. PREPARATION • Stitch this hem in place, as close to the edge as possible, through
all the layers. Press.
 Marking
• Place the markings on the wrong side of the skirt lining #2,
• Place the markings and the fold notch as well, on the wrong side
of the waistband #3.

2. SKIRT LINING  Serging the hem


• Serge the bottom of the skirt lining, using 3 threads preferably,
 Sewing • Fold 1cm (⅜'') on the inside. Press.
• With right sides together, pin two skirt lining pieces #2 together • Stitch this hem in place, as close to the edge as possible, through
and stitch the sides at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge, all the layers. Press.
• Serge or overcast the seam allowances together and press them
towards the back.

• Turn the skirt lining right side out.

3. WAISTBAND

• Fold the waistband #3 right sides together and stitch the ends to
get a loop,
• Stitch the side seam at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge,
• Press the seams open.

 Hemming
Here are two ways of hemming the skirt lining.

 Using the sewing machine


• Fold 0,5cm (less than ¼'') on the inside twice. Press.

Commercial use is strictly forbidden - www.pm-patterns.com | 9


4. TULLE SKIRT Each tulle panel #1 is sewn to ONE SIDE of another tulle panel (i.e.
one skirt length). So, if we have 6 tulle panels #1, marked #1A, #1B,
 Sewing tulle #1C, #1D, #1E, and #1F :
Tulle panels can be sewn together, - #1A is sewn to both #1B and #1F,
- either with a straight stitch on a sewing machine. You won’t have - #1B is sewn to both #1A and #1C,
to serge or overcast the seam allowances since tulle doesn’t fray. - #1C is sewn to both #1B and #1D,
- Or with a 3- or -4 thread on a serger. - #1D is sewn to both #1C and #1E,
- #1E is sewn to both #1D and #1F,
Serger will give you a cleaner finish. However, using a sewing ma- -#1F is sewn to both #1E and #1A.
chine will also get you a cute skirt as well!

 Understanding how the tulle skirt is designed


• One tulle panel #1 is ⅙ of the tulle skirt. That explains why you
need 6 tulle panels for the whole tulle skirt.

One tulle panel :

 Sewing the tulle panels


• Pin pieces #1 by pairs (right or wrong side is of no importance here),
• Check that tulle panels are in the proper direction, i.e. the green
part (the small indent) should be on the same side.
• Stitch ONE length (blue part) at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge.

For each tulle panel, the various colored parts above correspond to:
- The blue part is for the skirt length. ONE blue part of a tulle panel
must be sewn to ONE blue part of another tulle panel (see opposite),
- The green part is ⅙ of the waistband. This part is sewn to the
waistband #3 and to the edge of skirt lining #2,
- The purple part is the hem of the tulle skirt. This part is left raw.

• Once 2 lengths have been sewn together, it’s time to define the
right and wrong sides of the tulle skirt:
- The right side is the clean side of the seam sewn above,
- and the wrong side is where the seam allowances are.

• Then proceed as above: pin #1C to #1B along ONE length.


IMPORTANT: check that the seam allowances are always on the
same side when sewing the tulle panels, as stated above.

10 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden


ISADORA / ENGLISH

• And so on and so forth until you sew the remaining blue part of • Flip the seam allowances inside the waistband and press (choose a
tulle panel #1A to the blue part of tulle panel #1F. low temperature!).
NB: Once sewn together, the tulle panels create a gigantic tulle loop.

• With an iron at the lowest temperature possible (i.e. a temperature


suitable for silk so as not to melt tulle), press each seam allowance to
one side (choose always the same side). It will help them to stay flat
and the outcome will be nicer.
• Turn the tulle skirt #1 to the right side (that means that the seam
allowances will be on the inside).

5. SEWING THE SKIRT LINING TO THE TULLE SKIRT

• Insert skirt lining #2 into tulle skirt #1, with the right side of the
skirt lining against the wrong side of the tulle skirt,  Finishing the waistband
• Pin the top edge of the skirt lining to the top edge of the tulle skirt, • Fold and press 1cm (⅜'') to the inside of the raw edge of the
matching the markings, as well as the side seams, waistband,
• Stitch at 8mm (less than ⅜'') around the top edge.

• Flip the whole waistband to the inside so that the fold should
match the seam sewn before. Press.
6. WAISTBAND • Stitch as close to the edge as possible and through all the layers,
leaving a 4cm (1⅝'') opening for inserting the elastic.
 Assembling the waistband
• Pin waistband #3 to the top of the skirt, with the right side of
waistband #3 against the right side of tulle skirt #1, still matching
the markings (the side seam of the waistband is a marking too). The
tulle skirt is thus sandwiched between waistband #3 and skirt
lining #2.
• Stitch at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge.

Commercial use is strictly forbidden - www.pm-patterns.com | 11


• Cut the right length of 3cm (1¼'') elastic, depending on your waist • Insert the whole elastic into the casing through the opening and
measurement. The elastic should keep the skirt around the waist. place it flat inside it. Sew the opening closed in the continuity of
It shouldn’t be too tight, otherwise the skirt won’t be comfy. the stitching line.
That means, cut:
- One length of elastic measuring your waist measurement + 1cm
(⅜''), if you're between sizes.
- Or one length of elastic the length of which is based on the
theoretical waist measurement in the size chart:
- 63cm (24¾'') for french size 34;
- 65cm (25⅝'') for french size 36;
- 69cm (27⅛'') for french size 38; • Push the elastic against the fold of the top edge of the waistband.
- 73cm (28¾'') for french size 40; The elastic is still flat inside the casing, but is placed completely at
- 77cm (30¼'') for french size 42; the top of it. Pin-baste the elastic in place.
- 81cm (31⅞'') for french size 44; • Stitch the waistband AND the elastic with a long straight stitch
- 86cm (33⅞'') for french size 46; (length could be 4mm (1⅝'')), at 2cm (¾'') from the top edge of the
- 92cm (36¼'') for french size 48; waistband stretching the elastic during the process. Stretching the
- 98cm (38⅝'') for french size 50, and elastic makes the waistband flatter when reaching the needle.
- 104cm (41'') for french size 52.

• With an safety pin, insert the elastic inside the casing sewn above.
• Check that the elastic didn’t twist during the process then overlap
its ends by 1cm (⅜''). Sew the ends together with a narrow zigzag
stitch.

So, do you like it?!

Feel free to share your creation on social media


• You can try the skirt on to check that it’s tight enough and that it's #pmpatterns #pmISADORA
held around your waist. If not, tighten it a bit by overlapping the
ends more. 

p&m® est une marque déposée. La reproduction et l’utilisation commerciale sont p&m® is a registered trademark. Reproduction and commercial use are prohibited.
interdites. Ce modèle est strictement réservé à l’usage de nos clients. This pattern is strictly reserved for the use of our customers.

12 | www.pm-patterns.com - Commercial use is strictly forbidden

You might also like