2 Isadora Bookleten PM
2 Isadora Bookleten PM
com
ISADORA
Tulle skirt for woman
French sizes
34, 36, 38, 40, 42, 44, 46, 48, 50, 52
FOREWORD
Tell me you’ve never ever dreamt of being a princess?!
ISADORA is a tulle skirt, fitted at the waist with an elastic. Three lengths are available: mini length (about 55 cm (21½'')), midi length (about
75 cm (29½'')) and maxi length (about 95 cm (37½'')).
MODEL
Isadora is composed of 3 parts:
- A top part made of 6 tulle panels, each panel being a half-circle. This kind of cutting layout helps minimizing volume at the waist, but still
keeps volume at the bottom of the skirt. These 6 tulle panels, sewn together, make for one single layer of tulle.
- A skirt lining, slightly shorter than the tulle skirt, to prevent any see-through trouble.
- A waistband, with an elastic inside.
This skirt can be worn for festive occasions or more lay-back social events. It will depend on how you accessorize the outfit. In any case,
it’s highly important you fell beautiful and at ease with your skirt, without feeling you wear a costume. That means the tulle layer must be airy,
but with enough weight for a lovely drape, and soft to the touch. That explains why I advise you to choose some tulle that is smooth, soft, and
with body.
Among the tulles I tested, here are two references that would fit the bill:
- Oeko-tex® "souple uni" tulle from Les filles à pois (https://www.lesfillesapois.fr),
- "Extra Soft" tulle from Stragier (https://www.stragier.com/).
I didn’t test all the tulle providers in the world and you will probably find other providers stocking good quality tulle with all the necessary
features. However, for a prettier Isadora skirt, do not use stiff tulle, rough to the skin, and those that are too lightweight or thin.
The same applies to the lining and the waistband (both being cut from the same fabric): my piece of advice is to choose a rather thick lining,
with a nice drape. My favorite fabric for this project is the Venezia lining (available at both providers cited above), but other fabrics may share the
same features.
SUPPLIES
YARGADE
YARDAGE (yd) 34 36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52
* Tulle 150 cm (60'') WIDTH / 160 cm (63'') WDTH
MINI 4⅜ / 4⅜
MIDI 11 / 5¾
MAXI 13⅛ / 13⅛
The amount of tulle is for a skirt with ONE layer of tulle. If you want more layers, you will have to multiply the amount by the number of layers
you want. The more layers you’ll have, the more volume you’ll get.
The skirts shown in the pictures on the website are all one-single tulle layer skirt.
NOTIONS
- 3cm (1¼'') wide elastic (T34: 65cm (¾ yd); T36: 69cm (¾ yd); T38: 73cm (⅞ yd); T40: 77cm (⅞ yd); T42: 81cm (⅞ yd); T44: 85cm (⅞ yd);
T46: 90cm (1 yd) ; T48: 96cm (1⅛ yd); T50: 102cm (1⅛ yd); and T52: 108cm (1¼ yd)),
- Matching thread.
This garment is tightened at the waist by an elastic inserted into the waistband. Both waist and hips measurements will be needed to choose
the right size.
For a given size, the waistband of Isadora has been designed to have enough ease to get past the hips. However, if your hips are larger than the
theoretical hip measurement of the given size, check that the waistband has enough ease. Here’s the length of the finished waistband, when
stretched to the max:
Example: for someone with a waist measurement being 68 cm (26¾) and a hip measurement being 103 cm (40½), it would be better to sew
a french size 40 rather than a french size 38. Let’s break the numbers: french size 38 has a stretched waistband measurement equal to 102 cm
(40⅛). That means that a 103 cm (40½) hip measurement won’t fit (except if the person gets the skirt from the shoulders down).
Once the size has been chosen, pick the length you want.
Length of the MINI skirt, about 55 cm (21½'')
Cut pieces: #1-a, #2, and #3.
The length of each version is based on a 170 cm (66⅞'') height. That means that if you’re shorter, you can shorten both skirt AND lining. On
the contrary, if you're taller, you can lengthen both skirt AND lining.
Whatever case you’re in, shorten/lengthen both skirt and lining by the same amount.
This tutorial is made of 7 files that will be kept in your "My downloads" tab in your account. You can see them an download them at
will.
2-ISADORA-BookletEN-pm.pdf
General presentation of the pattern and instructions regarding the printing and assembling the pattern sheet, as well as the difficulty
level, the cutting layout, the step-by-step sewing instructions, along with size chart and fabric and notions requirements. IN ENGLISH.
3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P1-pm.pdf
3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P2-pm.pdf
Multi-size pattern sheets, to be printed and assembled at home on A4/US letter. To minimize costs and save ink, the pattern sheets
are black-and-white only.
4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm.pdf
4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-pm.pdf
4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P2-pm.pdf
Multi-size pattern sheets that can be printed in a copyshop. To minimize costs and save ink, the pattern sheet is black-and-white only.
The 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P1-pm and 3-ISADORA-PrintAtHome34_52-P2-pm files must be read with a software that manages
PDF; printing scale, and layers. I would advise to use Adobe Acrobat Reader DC (which is free here: https://get.adobe.com/fr/reader/).
The A4/US Letter pattern sheets for ISADORA are labeled “PrintAtHome”, P1 and P2. These files contain 42 sheets for P1 (landscape
format) and 18 sheets for P2 (landscape format) to glue together to get each of the whole pattern sheets. This file can be printed on any
printer.
Before printing, you can select the size(s) you need by hiding the size(s) you don’t need. Just click on the layer icon (shown as a pile) and you
will unveil the various layers of the PDF file. There one layer per size, the Elements layer, and the PDF Template layer.
To hide the size(s) you don’t need, uncheck them.
Check that, in the Print dialog box, “Actual scale” or “100%” is selected. Check your printer parameters by measuring the TEST SQUARE,
which must be 5 cm x 5 cm (2 inches x 2 inches).
You can trim or fold the small margins around the pattern sheet. Tape the pages together, following the printing layout below. Match the
print markings first and foremosts.
Tip: if you don’t want to print the large numbers of sheets for the
“tulle skirt” part, you can simply print and tape pages 1 to 8 and
draw yourself the arc representing the bottom of the skirt. You will
have to be really precise in your drawing since the distance between
the small indent of the top edge (pages 4 and 5) and the bottom of
the skirt must be constant everywhere.
NB: instead of tracing each pattern piece, you can cut your pattern pieces of the chosen size directly from the printed pages and place them on
your fabric (seam allowances are included).
Then, by overlapping the “assembly line”, printed on each 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1A-pm and 4-ISADORA-PrintShop34_52-P1B-
pm, it will be easy to tape the whole P1 sheet.
CUTTING LAYOUT
The cutting layout is for reference only. Its purpose is to show how to place the pattern pieces on the fabric and how many times you need to
cut a pattern piece.
IMPORTANT:
1- Tulle has neither right/wrong side nor grainline. Placing tone side on the inside when cutting the tulle or cutting pieces lengthwise or
widthwise will not impact the drape of the finished garment.
2- It’s better to cut tulle with paper scissors or a rotary cutter. Never ever use your fabric scissors for cutting tulle: you would damage the blades!
MINI LENGTH
Cut 3 times #1a- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MINI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.
MIDI LENGTH
Cut 3 times #1b- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MIDI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.
Cut 3 times #1b- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MIDI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.
Cut 3 times #1c- skirt in tulle folded in half at the width, to get a total of 6 MAXI tulle panels, cut into half-circles.
KEY
---------
Right side of lining Wrong side of lining Tulle Seamline
ASSEMBLING
1. PREPARATION • Stitch this hem in place, as close to the edge as possible, through
all the layers. Press.
Marking
• Place the markings on the wrong side of the skirt lining #2,
• Place the markings and the fold notch as well, on the wrong side
of the waistband #3.
3. WAISTBAND
• Fold the waistband #3 right sides together and stitch the ends to
get a loop,
• Stitch the side seam at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge,
• Press the seams open.
Hemming
Here are two ways of hemming the skirt lining.
For each tulle panel, the various colored parts above correspond to:
- The blue part is for the skirt length. ONE blue part of a tulle panel
must be sewn to ONE blue part of another tulle panel (see opposite),
- The green part is ⅙ of the waistband. This part is sewn to the
waistband #3 and to the edge of skirt lining #2,
- The purple part is the hem of the tulle skirt. This part is left raw.
• Once 2 lengths have been sewn together, it’s time to define the
right and wrong sides of the tulle skirt:
- The right side is the clean side of the seam sewn above,
- and the wrong side is where the seam allowances are.
• And so on and so forth until you sew the remaining blue part of • Flip the seam allowances inside the waistband and press (choose a
tulle panel #1A to the blue part of tulle panel #1F. low temperature!).
NB: Once sewn together, the tulle panels create a gigantic tulle loop.
• Insert skirt lining #2 into tulle skirt #1, with the right side of the
skirt lining against the wrong side of the tulle skirt, Finishing the waistband
• Pin the top edge of the skirt lining to the top edge of the tulle skirt, • Fold and press 1cm (⅜'') to the inside of the raw edge of the
matching the markings, as well as the side seams, waistband,
• Stitch at 8mm (less than ⅜'') around the top edge.
• Flip the whole waistband to the inside so that the fold should
match the seam sewn before. Press.
6. WAISTBAND • Stitch as close to the edge as possible and through all the layers,
leaving a 4cm (1⅝'') opening for inserting the elastic.
Assembling the waistband
• Pin waistband #3 to the top of the skirt, with the right side of
waistband #3 against the right side of tulle skirt #1, still matching
the markings (the side seam of the waistband is a marking too). The
tulle skirt is thus sandwiched between waistband #3 and skirt
lining #2.
• Stitch at 1cm (⅜'') from the edge.
• With an safety pin, insert the elastic inside the casing sewn above.
• Check that the elastic didn’t twist during the process then overlap
its ends by 1cm (⅜''). Sew the ends together with a narrow zigzag
stitch.
p&m® est une marque déposée. La reproduction et l’utilisation commerciale sont p&m® is a registered trademark. Reproduction and commercial use are prohibited.
interdites. Ce modèle est strictement réservé à l’usage de nos clients. This pattern is strictly reserved for the use of our customers.