Footwear finishing technology

Repairing and tools for repairing

• The purpose of repairing is to bring the shoe to an acceptable
standard before continuing with other operations in the shoe
room.

• It can be done by repair crayons, repair pastes, and spray

paints for grainy upper materials.
• The paste or spray can be either water or spirit based.
 Repair pastes
• Paste Repairer is a pigmented wax based paste, that restores colour to
minor scuffs & scratches on leather shoes.

• Quick drying, clear solvent lacquer, which imparts a bright luster and
silky feel to most leathers.
 Repair crayons

• Polishes and restores scuffed heels and sole edges neatly and easily.
• Which is nice, easy and clean to use.

• While Repair Crayons play a necessary part in the repair of shoes damaged in
production.
• This has been specially formulated to give a smooth even fill in a range of
hardness's.
• Shoes may be damaged because of poor handling or other faulty
operations.

• The damage may be due to the following reasons

• Over roughing along feather edge

• Scuffing of the finish during handling

• Finish damage by heat or solvents

• Grain cracking during lasting

• Increase in shade variation of upper leather

• There are many ways to repair shoe.
• Repair can be done by repair crayons, repair pastes, and spray paints for grainy
upper materials.
 Tools/materials for repairing
Description Form Type Method of Special Features
Application
Repair Sticks, Discs Wax based in Soft crayons can be Gap filling will not shrink,
crayons very soft, rubbed on. Hard used for heavy damage.
medium & hard crayons melted on Not suitable for flexible
forms, with warm knife. areas.
coloured. Dry instantly on cooling.
Repair Thick paste Coloured resin Brush or knife. Resins spray may not
pastes emulsion stick to repaired areas.
(Matched if Can be matched. Not gap
needed. filling for light damage.
Dry in 5-20 mins.
Not suitable for flexible
areas.
Uniformers, Solution Pigmented, Spray or brush
renovators or Solvent or
emulsion waterborne.
Pigment Paste Water based Hand brush For slight damage on shoe
paints feather line.
 Types of repairs, repair crayon
❖ Crayon, Paste & Spray Repairs
• Water-Based Spray Repairs -Aqueous spray for use in footwear
manufacturing as a repairer finish for damaged footwear.

• Lacquer Spray Repairs -Solvent spray for use in footwear manufacturing as a

repairer finish for damaged footwear.

• Lacquer is a type of hard and usually shiny coating or finish applied

to materials such as wood or metal.

• It is most often made from resin extracted from trees and waxes and has
been in use since antiquity.
• Paste Repairs – Water-borne paste for use in footwear
manufacturing as a repairer finish for damaged footwear.

• Wax Repair Crayons –Wax crayon for use in footwear

manufacturing as a repairer finish for damaged footwear.

• Suede Crayons – Suede crayons are chalk based crayons for use in
footwear manufacturing as a repairer finish for damaged suede or
Nubuck footwear.

• Uniformers/Renovators :-They are used for blend colour with rest of

shoe or even to add colour contrast according to fashion required.
• Pigment paints: - Pigment paints are used for slight damage on shoe
feather line.
 Filling and tools for filling
Different type of filler their nature and uses

• Fillers = base coat

• Fillers are used to provide a good base where to apply subsequent finishing
products such as

➢ liquid dressings,

➢ Shoe creams,

➢ Renovators, etc.
• In most cases, the right selection of filler improves adhesion and long
lasting finish.
• Fillers are available either in creams or liquid form.

• These products are used to fill upper leathers, which have developed a
hungry look after lasting.

• They act as base coat for subsequent top dressing.

• They seal the surface so that the topcoat does not sink in and only
minimum quantity has to be applied to give the desired appearance
and luster.

• Filler also enhance the gloss and necessary for inferior quality leather.
• Fillers are available as follows:
➢ Light Fillers - For Light leather finish (Proteins)
➢ Medium Fillers – For Resin Finish leather
➢ Heavy Fillers – For Leather with open or hungry look

When we say light, medium or heavy, it means the degree of fill.

• Note- For Polyurethane, PVC, Suede and Nubuck none of above filler can be
applied.
• Only matching can be done where finish is PU or PVC
• Procedure to apply fillers:

• Select suitable filler depending on the material to be

finished:

• Apply a moderate and uniform product quantity using a

sponge.
• It can also be applied by spray gun with a jet flag of 0.8/1.0 mm
and 4.0/5.0 Kg of air pressure.
 Topcoat and tools for topcoat
• Topcoat or top dressing: operation is often the final treatment which gives
the shoe its luster and determines its final appearance.

• Top dressing is either water based or solvent based

• Following points need to take care before putting final coat

➢ Proper cleaning.

➢ Upper condition (Proper drying) before applying the dressing

➢ Identification of correct dressing

➢ Proper application with tools

➢ Correct spray gun adjustment and technique.

 Tools and materials used for topcoat

❖ Materials used ❖ Tools Used

• Renovating cream, • Polishing Machine,
• Pastes, • Brushes (Cotton and Woolen),
• Waxes, • Sea sponge,
• Paints, and • Cotton cloth, and
• Leather oils • Foam.
• Polish creams
Tools and materials used for topcoat
 Different types of top-coat their nature and uses

Water Based Dressing

❖ Wax-based dressing requires brushing, which gives a natural shine to
the shoe; and

❖ PU-based dressing normally does not require brushing.

• It gives an artificial shine.
• Both wax-based and PU-based dressings can be applied by hand or by
spray.

• Water based top sprays are older type and based on waxes emulsion
and proteins.
• The modern sprays are acrylic resin emulsion and suitable
for use on nitrocellulose coated leather but not polyurethane.

• They are colorless or of with colors.

• Liquid dressing are of two types :-

➢ Wax based
➢ PU Based
 Solvent based dressing

• These are more durable ,resistant to water and scuffling, can be

made in wide range of luster from matt to high gloss.

• They must be applied with spray and gives very bright color fast
finish.
• PU Base finishing
• Polishes and creams
 Different types of top-coat their nature and uses
Protectors
• These are liquids, which normally applied by spray, confer on the footwear
material a measure of water oil repellency and hence reduced the subsequent
staining.

• The depth of absorption and the degree of protection depends upon the
absorbency of the material.

• They are therefore most popular for leathers like sued and nubuck.

• The most common repellants are silicon oils and fluorocarbons.

 ❖ Renovators:- Topdressing also includes Nubuck renovators, which can be solvent based

❖ Oil Emulsion: - Mainly used for oil pull up leather.

Problems with Dressings

Problem Causes Remedy

Flaking • Dressing and material finish is not • Check suitability of dressing

compatible • Clean more thoroughly
• Inadequate cleaning • Identify and eliminate source
• Contaminated cleaner pots and dirty
sponges
• Other contamination

Bloom • High humidity, water in solvents or • Some anti-bloom cleaners are available or
air supply. check air supply,
• Heat or solvent cause fat to move to • Warm gently to disperse bloom,
surface. • Excessive heat is avoided
• Solvents may cause whitening • Usually cured by over spraying with Butyl
Acetate (B.A.)
• Special cleaners and finishes are required
• Peeling or flaking is just a damaged finish (paint) on Bicast leather is embossed to give
it the appearance of grain and to
real leather or vinyl that is easily corrected. make it look more leather-like. It
is slightly stiffer than top-grain
leather but has a more consistent
texture.

• Peeling or flaking is usually a sign of a delaminating

bicast, bonded or faux leather and may be cost
prohibitive to repair.
 MATERIALS USED FOR SHOE FINISHING
• Creams for finishing;
• Dyes for repairing;
• Repairing crayons;
• Liquids for finishing;
• Waxes; and
• Cleaner

Different waxes their uses

• Waxes are used for burnishing, repairing and polishing.
• They are of different types as shown below
Different type of waxes
 • Burnishing is the process
❖ Abrasive Wax: of buffing leather edges

• Used for cutting or smoothening of grain surface, and for filling to a slick, glossy finish

and special effects, for example brush-off and burnish effect.

• These are available in three colours – black, brown and natural.

• This is to be applied on cotton roller.
• Brush off leather is a type
of smooth leather. During
the production process, the
❖ Repair Wax: These are gap-filling crayons and do not shrink leather is rolled, smoothed
and then polished.

on flexing.
❖ Burnishing wax:
❖ It is a medium-hard dyed wax, which enhances the burnishing effect on
burnished leather.

• This is to be applied on cotton roller.

❖ Polishing Wax:
❖ Used as the final operation to polish and protect the finish that is done in
the shoe finishing room.

• It also enhances the gloss of the shoe.

• This is to be applied on woolen roller.
• Two types of polishing wax are used :
➢ Synthetic and
➢ Carnauba. Are available in three colours as –
• Black,
• Brown and
• Natural.

• White Polishing wax is synthetic carnauba wax whereas natural

carnauba wax is yellowish in colour.
 Polishes and Creams

• Such products are non-film forming.

• Normally wax polishes are used and are widely available either neutral
or pigmented to match the color.

• Surface waxes can impart a measure of water repellence to footwear

although they cannot be regarded as water proofing agents.
• They will help against light showers or occasional The antique leather look
is created by contrasting
splashes but persistent water contact will soon penetrate colours. Patina appears
when the leather changes
the wax particularly where flexing breaks the surface due to aging, but it is still
attractive.
layers.

• Waxes and creams are also suitable for gloss

enhancement or to give some special appearance
(antique effect) on leather look synthetic material.
Leather Patina is something
• Creams could be: developed through everyday
use. The accumulation of dirt,
➢ Soft, body oils, sunlight and wear and
tear (like spilling a drink on a
➢ Medium or leather coaster) create a
darkening and soft sheen to
➢ Hard. leather goods.
• Soft and medium creams are those that require to be polished, and
are referred to as the CREAMS TO BE POLISHED.

• Hard creams are available as SELF-SHINING CREAMS.

• That is, they don’t require cutting or brushing operation necessarily.

• Creams are applied by sponge – sea sponge or synthetic sponge.

Waxes as final dressing
 Types of rollers-Cotton& woolen
• Rollers are also called Brushing machine.
• The machine rotates with variable speeds nominally polishing is recommended
on lower speeds.

Co -relation between speed effect and leather finish

Effect Roller Speed Wax

Required Recommended Recommended
Polishing Woolen Low Speed Carnauba
Burnishing Cotton High speed Burnishing Wax
Abrasive Cotton Medium For soft Abrasive wax
leathers
• Cotton brush can be applied at variable speeds in
which more abrasive action e.g. Burnshing leather and

C.G. Leather with heavy pigmentation.

• Woolen brushes are used for shining purpose with lower

speeds.
 Speed of roller and their use
• All leathers are different in character, but like all polishing, the operator
must watch how the abrasives are cutting or shine is done or not.

• Speed – The operator must watch how the abrasives are cutting, if they are
not cutting, than increase the speed with cutting wax application.

• In the manufacturing the RPM is normally 400-1200, slower speed is

important for the brushes for finishing or shining purpose.
Spraying Techniques
 Spraying technique
• Spraying provides professional finish for both leather and synthetics.
• However, using a spray means more preparation work is required.

• Generally, the following steps are required for spraying

1. Preparing

• Use cloth and wet it to remove dirt, polish or oils

• Remove the shine from the leather, this will help the paint to bind better to
leather.

• Cover all areas with masking tape that you are not painting i.e. sole edges,
and pack shoes with paper to stop overspray.
2. Spraying

• Shake can well.

• Hold can vertically, spraying 10-15 cm away from shoes in a slow sweeping
action.

• Apply an even coat and leave to dry for 5 to 10 Minutes.

• Apply a second coat.

• If needed a third coat may be required.

3. Finishing

• When completely dry remove all masking tape and paper.

• Finishes to a high shine.

• You may use a polish to freshen, but do not rub vigorously

 Application Procedure
1. Use good quantity sponges and clean the same with water before and after
application

2. For cleaning the shoe, use clean starch free cotton cloth and change the
cotton cloth regularly

3. Always allow some time (0.5 minutes) for drying all water based products,
in between each operation;

4. Before and after spraying solvent based products, clean the gun with
solvent thinner or acetone only;
5. Before and after spraying water based products, clean the gun with
water only;

6 Solvent based products to be sprayed at less pressure (45 Psi);

7. Water based products at more pressure (60-70 Psi); and

8. For safety measure clean the surface of the shoe after application of
abrasive and before applying the top dressing.
 SPRAY PAINTING BOOTH
• It is used to
➢ Increase efficiency of operator,
➢ Reduce dust problems,
➢ Reduce over spray problems,
➢ Paint of the product to be painted.

• It also plays a big role in removal of waste

spray paint and the sludge formed by it.
 WHY SPRAY BOOTH

❖ LAW: There is a statutory requirement under the Factories Act that

adequate ventilation be installed wherever spraying is carried out.

❖SAFETY: Spraying paint may involve fire risk from both solvent
and overspray deposits.

• A spray booth is essential to dispose off

❖ POLLUTION: The air exhausted from the paint shop must be
clean of paint as much possible.

• Only an efficient spray booth will ensure this and prevent pollution
from the atmosphere.

❖ QUALITY OF WORK: To remove dry-over spray effectively, thus

eliminating its settling on wet painted components.
 Spraying techniques
• Step 3: Overlapping
• Step 1: Keep your distance
consistent

• Step 2: Triggering the • Step 4: Gun should be

spray gun aimed to the corner
• Many faults can occur in Finishing.
• Some of them are due to wrong finishing method or some due to environmental
factors.
• Some common faults and their causes are listed in Table below
 Personal protective equipment (PPE)

✓ It refers to protective clothing, helmets, goggles, or other garments

or equipment designed to protect the wearer's body from injury or
infection.

✓ The hazards addressed by protective equipment include physical,

electrical, heat, chemicals, biohazards, and airborne particulate matter.

✓ It is compulsory to wear PPE before entering to Finishing Room.

 QUALITY CONTROLAND QUALITY CHECK POINTS

• The shoe sample after finishing must be checked

for any damage in finish as it may give rise to
customer’s complaints.

• Solvent based dressing may be reasonably

durable but wax based dressing may be lost
early in wear.
❖Shoe after finishing must be checked for :
✓ Uniform gloss and colour;
✓ Proper colour fastness;
✓ No damage to the surface;
✓ No damage to the sole (especially rubber soles). One should be careful while
brushing the shoe on cotton rollers, especially if it is a rubber sole. In case the
sole comes in contact with the brush, it may be damaged and the dirt could
migrate to the leather surface;
✓ Improper drying may lead to sticking of fibers on leather surface, which are
difficult to remove. One may have to go back to the cleaning operation all over
again;
• One should not press the shoe hard against the cotton roller. It may lead
to excess cooking of wax on the surface;

• ‘Whiteness’ occurs either due to leather spew or improper finishing

method. For example, excess loading of self-shining cream, especially
natural coloured cream on coloured leather. It may also be due to an
excess of neutral-coloured hard wax on the roller;
• Cracking of shoe finish
• Tackiness and
• Colour variations on different parts etc.
 Quality Control of finish shoe

• The operator must have the customer's standard

sample or specifications so that the final product
can be compared in the main characteristics, with a
visual analysis (visual tests).
 Upper
✓ Loss of color or differences in hue, texture or shine of the material(s) when
comparing both shoes of a pair

✓ Deformed toe area due to poor leather quality or incorrect toe puff application
✓ Differing toe heights when comparing both shoes of a pair
✓ Differing heel heights when comparing both shoes of a pair
✓ Symmetrical instep of both shoes of a pair (top view)
✓ Scratches and / or stains or other soiling on the inside or outside of the shoes
✓ Cracks in the finish
✓ Wrinkles and creases
✓ Crooked / misaligned or out of place seams.
• In particular, the heel seams should be visually examined by
placing the pair of shoes together on a flat surface;
✓ Differing color or thickness of seams when comparing both
shoes of a pair
✓ Skipped stitches
✓ Loose or discontinuous seams
✓ Ripped or wrinkled lining
✓ Misaligned eyelets
✓ Decorative parts that are dirty, crooked or poorly
positioned

✓ Differences in lace color or lace thickness in a pair

✓ Protruding metal or other parts on inside the shoe
that can hurt the foot
✓ Dirt of any kind, either on the inside or outside of
the shoe
✓ Excessive glue, visible on the edges / glue line
of the shoe
✓ Deformations of any kind
 Bottom
• Sole detaching from the upper - points around the sole edge where no
glue has been applied can easily be spotted

• Sole too short in relation to the upper

• Sole elements coming off, as for example outsole, midsole, insole, welt
or heel. This type of test is, to a certain extent, destructive, if the
separation of materials occurs, requiring the use of force to test the
adhesive capacity of the components
• Protruding metal or other parts that can hurt the wearer
• Sole poorly centered
• Heel poorly centered
• Different heels sizes when comparing both shoes of a pair. It
requires observation of the pair on a flat surface.
• Poorly fixed or loose heels. It requires the use of force in the test, being in a
certain way, of a destructive character, if the separation of materials occurs
• Protruding nails, staples or clips, detected together by direct
observation and probing

• Unsticked or wrinkled insole

• Variation in color, drawing and finishing of the sole or heel when
comparing both shoes of a pair
 Shoe Quality Inspections
• Shoe quality inspection is a critical skill for a shoemaker to master, as footwear
construction quality is a very important feature of any shoe you may make, buy, or sell.

• When a new sample arrives it’s critical to inspect the materials, assembly
technique, and workmanship. You must know the correct footwear inspection
procedure.

• You don’t need any special tools or lots of time. In just a few seconds you can
quality check a new pair of sneakers in a store without damaging the shoe or
hassling the store employees.
Shoe inspection quality “A”, “B”, “C” – Grades
A grade shoes

• Shoes without any functional defects or cosmetic defects that will

impair the marketability of the shoe are A grade.

• These are high-quality shoes, they look good and fit correctly. An
A grade must follow the production specifications and match the
approved confirmation sample.
 B grade shoes

• Shoes without any major functional defects and which will not cause
injury to the person wearing the shoes are B grade.

• B grade shoes may have cosmetic defects, production mistakes, or

workmanship issues that cannot be properly repaired.

• These B grade shoes will be discounted and/or diverted to markets more

tolerant of cosmetic defects.
 C grade shoes:
• C grade shoes have major functional defects that could cause injury
to the wearer or major cosmetic defects that cannot be repaired.

• Shoes are also considered C-grade if they have poor workmanship or

material defects that could shorten the normal life expectancy of the
shoe, or damage the companies reputation. These shoes should be
destroyed.
Shoe quality checklist: How to inspect a shoe:
The main points in a shoe inspection are as follows:
1. Is this the correct shoe, a matched pair?
2. Is the shoe clean?
3. Does the shoe follow the specification?
4. Is the workmanship of high quality?
5. Is the shoe damaged in any way?
Key shoe quality issue: Symmetry
• Now, holding the shoe from the bottom, roll the uppers together side by
side.

• You are now checking the alignment of the shoe parts.

• Starting from the front, roll the shoes to align the parts, toe caps, vamps,
overlays, eye stays, and eyelets.
• While you have the uppers side by side, compare the finish and colors
of each part.
• Next, hold the shoes up, looking at the heels.
• Make sure the shoes sit on the outsole straight.
• A shoe inspector checks to confirm the upper is not rotated off-
center.

• Now, rolling the heels together, check that the back height and
collar lines match.
• At this point, study the shoe bottoms. Do they match? Are the color blocks in the
same location?

• Look over the midsole sidewall for wrinkles.

• Check the seam joining the upper to the outsole.

• Look out for any extra glue on the upper. 2mm is the limit for “over gluing.”
• Also, look for over buffing of the upper.
• Look for any paint covering mistakes.
• Check to make sure the outsole parts fit together neatly without any extra glue.
 Footwear Inspection: Look inside!
• Footwear Inspection: Look inside!
• Complete shoe quality inspections check each side inside and out.
• Now that we looked over the outside, it’s time to dive inside because a
great looking shoe with defects inside is not salable.

• Look inside the shoe opening, is the lining clean and without wrinkles?
Run your hand around the collar, feel for any lump, bumps, or glue.
• For leather shoes, be on the lookout for any lasting nails
or staples.
• For sports shoes, make sure the footbed is straight, level,
and fitting correctly.
• If the footbed is too small, it may slide around, too big,
and the footbed may wrinkle or curl.
• Next, inspect the tongue lining for wrinkles and lumps.
• Run your hand down inside to check the vamp and toe cap from
inside.

• Feel around the toe along with the footbed for lasting wrinkles.
• Feel for any rough stitching inside.
• Finally, make a quick check of the laces. You need to adjust the
shoelaces if too long or too short, too long is much better than too

short.
 Common Shoe Quality Problems
❖ The common shoe quality defect list.
• Is the shoe clean? (White shoes can be hard to make
inside a dirty factory.)
• Is the color matching of shoe parts correct, (suede and
natural leathers can be tricky.)
• Material quality? Is the suede hairy? Rough trimming
or rough cutting? Upper wrinkles?
• Make sure to check around the collar foam.
 Shoes zoning for defect classification
• Most shoes can be divided into two zones,
“Zone 1” and “Zone 2”.
• Zone 1 is generally the most important area in
terms of visual appeal because it’s the area
most apparent to customer or wearer.
• Zone 2 is less important because it includes
areas of the shoe that are less obvious to the
customer or wearer.
• Any defect found in Zone 1 that isn’t
critical is more noticeable and more likely
to be considered a major defect.

• The same defect found in Zone 2 is more

likely to be classified as a minor defect
 Common defects of shoe

Excess glue, wax or oil

Degumming or weak cementing

Abrasion marks
Asymmetry in shoes
 Final shoe packing

• Corrugated boxes have been traditionally used as the

primary form of shoe packaging.

• However, shoe suppliers are inculcating multiple layers

of primary packaging such as plastic film covers, thin
protective wraps, bubble wraps, etc.
Corrugated boxes

• This helps to improve the shock-resistant features of

shoe packaging systems.