Manual Reparo Mercedes W202 (601 675)
Manual Reparo Mercedes W202 (601 675)
Manual Reparo Mercedes W202 (601 675)
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
If the white glass bulb only inserts the bulb with the yellow glass bulb, the light indicator light is amber.
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Pull the light assembly as set on the contact springs. If the tube holder is included in the loose contact spring,
when necessary, bend them carefully.
5. Place the license light plate, insert and fix the two screws at the same time, pay attention to the normal seat of the seal.
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Pull the light assembly as set on the contact springs. If the tube
holder does not form tight contact part of the spring, when
necessary, bend them carefully.
4. then remove the bowl (4). Remove the wire on the back side.
Installation
14.1.11.6. Indicator
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Slide the front turn signal bulb into the hole and fix it. At the same time, both sides have to insert a
pin bulb engages in the spotlight.
14.1.11.7. Spotlight
GENERAL INFORMATION
14. connects the indicator lamp 30. 33. The pneumatic tube
Connect to the lighting 32. Hose for a M6/2x1, M6/3x1. Turn the wiper motor left/right
device for cleaning the lens of
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Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Remove the electrical wires and air line headlamp to adjust the height.
3. If present, remove the wiper arm (24) lights. To do this, fold the protective cover, unscrew the nut (22) and
remove it together with the washer (23).
4. Depending on the equipment, remove the cross member and side guards in the light fixing area.
5. Remove the two screws (26) and release the protective cover (25) under the spotlight.
6. Remove the screws (27-29) and pull the headlight forward. Close the damper with a cloth to avoid scratching it.
7. If present, remove the hose for the device for cleaning the lamp lens.
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8. If you must remove the lens lights optical element, remove the rubber seal. Remove the spring clip on the top and
bottom of the two support rings (38). Remove the lens from the optical element (9) with the gasket (21).
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. If removed, the lens inserts into the optical element and the headlight housing at the same time as it is
pressed, while the upper and lower support earrings snap into place.
4. After completing the assembly, have the lights adjusted at a specialized workshop.
GENERAL INFORMATION
1. Regulation horizontally
2. Height adjustment
To ensure traffic safety, it is very important to correctly adjust your headlights. Fine adjustments can be made only by
means of a special mounting device. Therefore, only specified below where you can adjust the lights and what
conditions you need to perform for correct adjustment.
In the unloaded vehicle on the driver's seat, place the load at 75 kg (the weight of a person).
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ORDER PERFORMANCE
3. Sometimes pressing heavily on the front of the vehicle's damping suspension resolved the front wheels.
4. Replace "O" headlight optical axis correction angle. Start the engine and let it run for a short time.
At the same time, repeatedly press the accelerator pedal in order to create sufficient vacuum. Turn off
the engine.
5. Lights can be adjusted only in dim light. Measure the top slope of the cut by 10 cm at 10 m away.
Due to the general placement in one lens unit (headlight and parking light in one case), and
adjusted position of road lights and fog lights.
14.1.11.8. Taillight
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Scenario
41. The lamp holder 42. Nuts 44. Lamp glass 45. Seal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Check the seal for porosity and absence of damage, replace if necessary.
2. Insert the tail light glass with the gasket into the body from the outside.
4. Insert the lamp holder and lock it by turning the plastic handle to the right.
9. Remove the glass backlight (44) with the seal (43), remove the reflector inside.
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14.1.12. Devices
GENERAL INFORMATION
In cars Mercedes C-Class devices focused on the dashboard. It is necessary to trigger, if necessary, to replace
the incandescent lamps in the instrument panel lighting system. If individual measuring devices are faulty, it is possible
to dismantle the panel and repair instrument. This section also deals with switches on the steering column: wiper/and
driving lights/flashing light.
01.14.13. Dashboard
GENERAL INFORMATION
Clips 60. The spring 62, 63. The mains pole plug
61. Staples TO 1. Combined device
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
This erased anti-theft radio code. Before disconnecting the wires see. Subsection 1.14.16.
2. The car without adjusting the steering wheel position in relation to the driver: Remove the steering wheel.
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Attention
3. Adjustable car wheel steering position relative to the driver: Fully pull the steering wheel toward the driver.
6. Take back below the panel and evenly squeeze the insert out.
8. Release the clip for mounting shtekkernyh electrical connectors (62, 63) and remove the
connectors. Remove the panel.
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Press the shtekkernyh indentation two connectors and fix them clamps.
2. Insert the straight out instrument panel into the hole and fix it Squeeze.
5. Connect the battery ground (-) cable terminal. Set the clock and enter the anti-theft code for the radio.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
TO 1. Combined device
E1. Warning signs allow
E14. Lamp failure control
a left turn
E15. Airbag monitoring
e2. Notice inclusion of indexes
E16. Preheat control
from the right turn
E17. ABS braking system control (ABS)
e3. Warning signs incorporating
rear light
E21. The function of the drive wheel system
e4. Signal pointer light
display control slide relative to the support
fuel supply
surface (ASR)
e5. Controlling the battery
e22. Control system control
E6. Wear control of friction linings
slippage of the driving wheels
relative to a reference surface (ASR)
of brake pads
e7. Checking the brake fluid level and the parking
E24. Check automatic locking differential
lot
(ASO)
brake system
E25. Automatic locking differential
E8. Panel lighting
(ASD) operating indication
E9. Seat belt signal light
E26. CHECK ENGINE engine control
E11. Check the coolant level
E34. EDC Control
E12. Check the oil level
E13. Water level control in the cleaner
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. If necessary, remove the cartridge sensors on the back of the left-hand rotation and replace the bulb.
Mercedes bodywork to loosen bulb has cartridges of a special tool, but can also be done with your
fingers or pliers.
3. Replace the lamp only with the lamp having the same power and the same type.
Withdrawal
31. Screws
S40h1. S4 cruise socket plug. S40
32. Holder
combination switch. Cruise
33. Casing piping shell S4h1. Combined
control switch
switch socket plug
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ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
3. Remove the screws from the contact coil directly to the front
wheels so that you can remove the coil contact.
Attention
Do not remove the screws completely, otherwise the spiral contact is destroyed and must
be installed again in the central position.
4. Remove the plug from the two compounds of the spiral contact and
separate them. Remove spiral contact.
7. Remove shtekkernoe compound (S4x1) and moving the clasp (arrow) unlock.
8. Only when equipped with cruise control: Remove and separate shtekkernoe compound (S40x1).
9. Remove the box liner tube (33) together with the combination switch, if necessary, and switch the cruise control.
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Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
3. Place the connection lines and wire tips secure in reverse order.
GENERAL INFORMATION
50. Knob Control 54. The angle of the optical axis of the headlamp
51. Incandescent 55. Socket plug
52. Nut S. Light switch
53. Protective cover
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Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
5. Remove the nut (52) and remove the protective cap (53).
6. Disconnect the spring clamp angle controller to the optical axis washers (54).
7. Turn left light switch (S1) and pull it down. When installing, pay attention to the correct seating of the
locking projections.
Installation
01.14.16. Radio
GENERAL INFORMATION
Withdrawal
Attention
As standard established and acquired in commercial receivers have a code number. It protects the receiver
against unauthorized use. After turning on the radio, you must follow the operating instructions to enter the code
number, otherwise it cannot be included. If the radio is coded, then set the radio code before disconnecting the
wires from the battery terminals or removing them. If the code is not known, enter the working car radio can only
manufacturer. The individual code number is listed in the radio's passport. This certificate must not be stored in
the car.
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
2. Slide the two demolition key (51) and remove the radio (A2).
3. Press the locking spring (arrow) and remove the disassembly key.
4. On the back of the radio, label the wires with tape and remove them.
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. In the production car do not install the antenna cable and antenna line with its remote control extension,
they need to spend extra.
2. Connect the wires behind the radio as marked in accordance with the manufacturer's instructions.
3. Insert the radio with a push into the hole in the console.
4. Connect to the battery ground cable (-) terminal. Set the clock and program the anti-theft code into
the radio.
Attention
If you do not use the serial link cable, be sure to pay attention to the fact that
No bare wires lose. Otherwise, a short circuit will blow the wire. In stores you can buy adapters to
connect the radio.
Pay attention to only apply type examination set of components (inductors, capacitors) for interference
suppression (with the general authorization for ABE vehicle operation). In the trade, especially for Mercedes
agreed sets of elements to suppress interference with the installation instructions.
I agree radio with antenna. To do this, set the low power of the medium wave transmitter to approximately 1,400
kHz. If there is a transmitter it can be used to adjust the noise generator. Turn the screw with a small screwdriver
corresponding to the antenna (front left on the radio housing) until you reach the best possible reception, or maximum
noise level.
Attention
At the same time, turn the adjustment screw a maximum of just 1/2 turn.
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01.14.17. Antenna
GENERAL INFORMATION
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
Attention
This erased anti-theft radio code. Before disconnecting the wires see.
Recommendations subsection 14.1.7.
2. Open the trunk lid, release the clip and remove the side trim.
3. Remove the wire to connect the case with the screw (77).
4. Remove the antenna at the bottom of the bracket (78) and remove it from the bottom of the rubber
bushings on the wing. Disconnect the antenna wire from the terminals (81) and, if present, the control line
(82).
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Check the rubber ring on the wing for porosity or damage, replace it if necessary.
2. Insert the antenna from the bottom and insert the ball head into the bottom of the sleeve.
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5. Screw in the body wire to connect the antenna to the car body.
6. Attach the antenna wire to the terminal. If you have an antenna with a remote control connected to the
electrical control line terminal.
8. Connect the battery ground cable terminal (-). Set the clock and program the anti-theft code into the radio.
GENERAL INFORMATION
74. Nut
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
3. Pull out the telescopic antenna (75) together with a plastic rod (76).
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Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Use a plastic rod (76) with the rear of the vehicle, against the direction of movement.
2. Ask the assistant to turn off the radio, enter the all-plastic rod (76) and the telescopic part of the antenna (75).
01.14.18. speakers
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Lift the plastic wedge guard for the left or right speaker.
4. Remove the spring clips and remove the speaker from the cabinet.
Speaker in the space between the rear seat backrest and the rear window heater
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Remove the seat at the back of the car along with the back.
3. Remove and dismantle the space between the rear seat backrest and the rear window.
6. Remove the speaker. To open this retaining tabs. With a special equipment interference suppression device installed on
both sides of the two dynamics, which are removed
Likewise.
2. Loosen the screws and remove the column compound, disconnect shtekkernoe (92) on the power line.
Installation
GENERAL INFORMATION
Rubber wiper blades should be replaced with poor quality glass cleaner. The trade offered as a
complete cleaning blade (rubber brush holder), and separate rubber wiper. If you are replacing
just the rubber brush, pay attention to the fact that the holder was not bent.
Withdrawal
Attention
When working with the wipers remove the ignition key. Move the lever
connecting brush or wiper, from position "1" of the ignition key may engage automatic return
to the initial position of brushes. E. Wiper operates in an idle mode while it is in the rest
position. There is a risk of injury!
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Press the plastic clip on the corrugated part (1) and slide the
wiper blade down (2) into the hook on the wiper blade lever.
4. Release the rubber brush (3) from the clamps (4) on the blade.
Scenario
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Both profile side rails open type rubber brush so that the
guide grooves looked to shoot and lock in the groove. By
folding the guide you are looking in the direction of the
glass.
3. The spring clasp is easier to enter the locking groove, if the front end of it pre-mowed file and lubricated
with soapy water (detergent).
4. Lubricate the rubber brush on the closed side with soap and water, it is better to slide on the metal hook.
5. The two steel rails and pliers clamp rubber brush and hook on the wiper clips.
6. Push-fit the brush so that it is between the two guide pins on the wiper arm.
Attention
If cleaning the new blade, push down the plastic clips into the slots.
7. Push the brush hooks your arm, hold the plastic claws and thus lock the wiper blade.
8. Push the wiper lever. At the same time, pay attention to the fact that the rubber brush everywhere adjacent to
the glass.
Attention
Rubber sponge cleaning blade when the direction of movement must be bent (knock down). If not, bend the arm of the
wiper blade so that it is parallel to the end of the glass.
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GENERAL INFORMATION
REASON RESOURCE
Brushes slip
Dirty rubber brush Clean the stiff rubber brush with nylon brush and
detergent or alcohol.
used tires
surface, cracked
The windshield is dirty polyturnym lacquer or Clean the windshield with a clean cloth and
oil silicone stain remover.
Twisted wiper arm Carefully unscrew the brush arm in the opposite direction until it
reaches the normal vertical position.
Rubber Brush ran out of the rim Carefully insert the brush into the frame.
Wiper does not adhere to glass evenly as Replace the cleaning blade.
curved spring rails or guards
Too low contact pressure due to This defect occurs mainly when installed
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cause of the cleaning blade arm correctly replace brush. Lightly lubricate the pivot
arm and wiper blade springs or install a new lever.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Both two-pin jet washers equipped with a heating element with a positive temperature coefficient.
The heating wire heats up after the nozzle is ignited and thus prevents it from freezing in winter.
GENERAL INFORMATION
As soon as the headlights are turned on when the wiper is also with it in the work of the windshield wipers
are turned on and the headlights.
Withdrawal
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Use the washer and cleaner cleaner and let it work. Turn off the ignition.
Attention
When working with the cleaner Remove the key from the ignition. Move the brush lever or
Turning wiper, from position "1" of the ignition key can engage automatic brushes hold in a starting position. E.
Wiper operates in an idle mode until it is located in the rest position. There is a risk of injury!
3. Remove the upward lever (2) with a cleaning blade. At the same time, keep the scraper arm over the lock, thus
preventing your windshield from slamming.
6. Remove the nuts (1) and screw (2) for the rubber feet.
The screw (2) is mounted behind the engine compartment
panel and is difficult to access.
Scenario
Attention
Make sure the wiper motor is in the rest position. If not, turn on the multi-plug. Briefly activate the wiper motor work
and then turn it off using your key. To do this, briefly switch the ignition. Then again, disconnect the electrical connection.
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Align the scraper arm with a lever mechanism according to the markings produced during
disassembly.
3. Insert the engine crankshaft jaw and thus align the jaw crank (3) formed with a lever mechanism (4) The cleaning line. Tighten
4. Insert the cleaner into the car and push the multi-plug.
6. Wiper screw.
7. Push the wiper lever, screw by Allen screw and fold the protective cover.
8. Check the test standard size of the distance (A) between the unit
head and windshield wipers. It should be 5 mm.
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10. Next, check the probe gap (B) between the wiper
arm and brush. If the difference is less than 5 mm and
bending the arc of the wiper blade arm towards the
windshield there is a gap of about some amount
greater than 5 mm.
11. Install the protective cover for the heating system air inlet.
12. Close the motor cover and check the wiper for normal operation.
13. Install the spare wheel and secure the bolts, tightening them slightly. Lower the wheel. In a diagonal
sequence, tighten the torque wheel bolts.
GENERAL INFORMATION
One can complain about the government not taking adequate measures to reduce the number
of stolen cars, laws severely punishing modern horse thieves, and in general everyone else.
But as the saying goes, "God helps only those who don't forget to help themselves." Anyone
who bothered to equip the iron horse with a reasonable set of anti-theft devices, as a rule,
does not lose.
To steal a car, you need to get inside. For this purpose, there are only two ways to break the
glass or open the lock with a key, master key or other device. You can, of course, go deep
into the technology of the case, which in itself is not without interest. But we have enough
for criminals to possess it to perfection. And can this be combated?
You can, of course. ride in an armored collector car - where the glass will not break even with
the "Kalashnikov". Do you agree? You can go in a simpler way - to increase the strength of
the glass. For example, with the help of special "shielding" films. With the hardest keys. You can
put an extra block, but in practice it is not very effective protection. However, if you cannot
prevent the machine from opening then you should at least know about it - any alarm is
triggered when the door is opened.
The next step that the hijacker must do is to start the engine. This is where the main line of
defense of most commercially available anti-theft devices lies. And for immobilizers - it
is the main task, and for alarm - support. Of course, all locks are
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surmountable. But aware of the fact that there is no absolute protection, the attacker may try
to create more difficulties. In this regard, competently delivered predpochitelnee
immobilizer. Additionally, you need to remove the lock to open the cover. Therefore, it does not
hurt to install additional lock on it.
Note: Immobilizer and alarm systems differ in the level of protection and the number of
basic and advanced functions. The price depends on both the first and second circumstances.
And the high cost of the system - is not a sign of high security characteristics. Maybe it's just a
bunch of support functions.
The engine is running and traveling in the right direction as a car - not the same thing. This
postulate is based on the machine's last line of defense. It consists of several mechanical
systems - locking wheel, pedals, transmission locking... If there is no reason to fear that
the car will simply utaschat on the trailer, we can apply locking.
Now for practice. Looking at advertising it is easy to see that anti-theft devices are very
diverse. We must use it to evaluate the characteristics of your car: is it a brand, what its technical
condition, where, how and with whom you normally drive, where the machine is regularly,
where occasionally, where it spends the night, etc. Depending the need to assess the risk of
theft. Then you will know exactly how big sacrifices can be brought to the safety of the machine.
This knowledge is very useful when you peregovarah installer.
Sometimes inexperienced people stick their finger into more expensive systems, believing
them better. Then they come with a request to hang up, then the other ... In the end, they
have a question: what to pay the money for? Don't stretch. If faced with anti-theft systems for
the first time, choose the one that is simplest to manage. What is "infuriated
signaling", do you know? No? So you're in luck with the neighbors. The most common alarm
is "going crazy" because of inadequate treatment and your inability to understand the abundance
of basic and advanced functions. And it's not in the stupidity of individual car owners. After all,
if the car will rebel because of the anti-tripping system, it is very difficult for an inexperienced
person to figure out what is what. So don't forget the installer user guide and don't be lazy with it
in the hands of a little practice. In the desert, of course, location.
However, anger signals not only due to improper handling. And therefore, the issue of
reliability is quite relevant. Reliability largely depends on the installer. You have to trust their
reputation and guarantee. But not least, car maintenance. So, if you want to protect
your used car, be prepared to incur additional costs for repairing locks, electrical...
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We call the five most, in our opinion, "the alarm sound": Bosch, Clifford, Sirio 777 Mouse, Sicura, Prestige.
Absolute protection is impossible. Regardless, in a pinch you can always plunge car into a tow truck or truck to steal it. But
now hijacking a car - it's a business, and each company seeks to reduce costs. Therefore, preference is given to cars
without complicating life. Therefore, create hijackers difficulties.
Immobilizers
In Soviet times, one of the most popular anti-theft equipment was "key lock" -
hidden in the jungles of the engine compartment or interior extra ignition switch recesses. In post-Soviet times, it
became clear that this device is not foreign to the world of capital. However, there is a good job on it, which will result in a
device called "immobilizer".
The main task of the immobilizer - to break one or more vital for the functioning of the machine's electrical circuits
and thus prevent hijacking. When using additional devices such as solenoid valves, blocking of non-electrical systems is
also possible. The main features of the immobilizer are that when the destruction or unauthorized deactivation of
the vehicle they are blocked.
Anti-theft systems
Striving to best protect the car against theft has led to the development of increasingly complex models. Thus, there
were devices that should be called anti-theft systems. One of them - "Vekta". In it, the main unit is not made to bend, all
the wires are the same color, and some of them - are fake. "Vekta" allows you to break the four strands, and even
change the polarity of the two wires.
"Cyborg", actively promote our market "Plasma" - at a higher level. In it, the main unit is connected to the car's
standard connection and breaks the vital circuits carried out by means of special devices. The small dimensions make it
very difficult to find them. Furthermore, the "Cyborg" has a wide range of additional functions and is connected to the
city's paging network. You can call the equipment over the phone and ask for a start. Or, conversely, to stop.
Signaling
Initially, the idea was to notify the owner of the attack on their pet.
Modern alarm far from primitive "two-button" systems. Almost all of them are remote from the key fob, including - by
infrared rays or radio waves. In the latter case, double or floating applies, constantly changing the code. Widely used block
architecture: the main unit can work with a wide range of sensors, the output can also be connected to standard car
alarm or siren - normal or self-powered, responding to a power outage. You can do without the noise if you connect pager
instead of a siren
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(not to be confused with the paging network, it is a different pager) that beeps in your pocket with the car owner's
alarm.
Not devoid of modern alarm and anti-theft features. Even the simplest of them is blocking the work of at least one electrical
circuit. The fundamental difference between the immobilizer is that if the power block is normally disabled.
Modern people love all types of services. Well, is it bad if the alarm itself will close the doors? Nowadays, this function can be
considered as the standard.
Additional locks
Ten years ago, in the depths could be seen not only the truck, but also quite respectable "Volga" sticking out of
the door under the hinged flap robust padlock.
Then the first on our market "though" device, blocking the steering wheel and pedals. Drivers with experience well
remember these huge piece of iron frightening sight.
It is worth mentioning the "Israeli miracle" - Mul-t-lok - blocking, locking the gear lever. Obviously, the car with
"automatic" better protect these devices because the manual allows you to tow the car with the clutch squeezed.
The next type of anti-theft device - locking the wheels, storm violators of parking rules.
Finally latest design - additional hood lock. However, the castle itself is not a barrier to the thief. After all, to start the engine
of a modern car, it is not necessary to open the hood, and even more so - the trunk. Therefore, these locks are only good as
a supplementary measure, preventing access to the alarm or immobilizer.
Of the variety of functions, one deserves a separate story. This - the protection of the machine from theft. The most common
"Jackie" - Hight Jack and Black Jack.
Hi Jack turned it into a keychain - which puts the car is armed, or own. In principle, it provides the following: "Thrown
away." Here is the car you have selected, and you are. You press a button quickly. Then the following occurs: at the same
time or with a slight delay and stop the engine alarm is activated. After that, bringing the machine into operation with the help
of remote controls is no longer possible. Of course, you need to enable High Jack before the machine would go beyond
the actions of a locksmith. The disadvantage is that to "throw" as a rule, out of the car with the keys and remote control, and
therefore must always have a spare key, or at least the main store separately, which you will agree, is not very convenient.
Blackjack will not be activated. It must be off. Typically after each door opening. Otherwise, it warns the forgotten driver, and
then turns off the engine, but when the
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reset hijacker "gas", which makes the car stop safer for the car owner (thieves already far away), and for those
who approach.
GENERAL INFORMATION
No theft immunity. If the price of the car can be doubled, it is potentially a commodity, and therefore - and the object
of theft. What could be stolen, will be stolen. The only question is where and when.
The most perfect remedy is electronic systems - alarms and anti-theft devices. The first task - to report about the
kidnapping and try to have a psychological impact on the thief. But this feeling that if the car is on the street, and the
bedroom windows overlook the backyard?! Even working on time, she causes passers-by nothing but irritation. The thief
also not very "hvylyuetsya", knowing that worked weapon just pop. Meanwhile, the owner puts on sweatpants and
goes down the elevator, you can manage to get to the Canadian border. Therefore American style alarm so popular in
the CIS countries in Europe do not apply. After all, with false positives the owner would have to pay for all trips
to the scene by police squads. Fortunately (in this sense), our police siren on the car reacts very rarely.On his
call runs only the owner, obliged to ensure that the first alarm is false, and only then call the police. And in
anticipation of this - try to dissuade car. Protivougonki much more effective, more difficult and more expensive at the same
time.
Abroad, the best advertisement for the alarm system is recognition from its association of insurance companies. Otherwise
interfering in the market is not necessary. And don't go from "them," Now we have flooded the market. We do not have
such an association, so insurance companies are obliged to pass on their own experience.
We summarize some of the demands presented - selecting the basic system components at the level of protection and
evaluating their effectiveness.
The keys
Owner of Inter, if it falls into the wrong hands. The newly Tlris castles - is no exception. Remember a coded key chip is
mounted without power supply, the lock respectively reader (radioschityvatel) periodically request the key. If microchip
identified, the system turns off the alarm and unlocks the unit. Unfortunately, Tlris only protects against fake keys and
master keys.
Uses an infrared, radio or ultrasonic link. It's convenient, but you can also bring it. And if the battery has it, it creates some
problems: either to put the car on guard or to withdraw from it, or to unlock the drive. And, at the most inopportune time.
And many have been kidnappers themselves
car.
The system fails if enabled nearby jammer - a broadband noise generator or similar. And the means of opening - scanners,
grabbers, etc. It has a little less than the systems themselves.
The thing is even more convenient. While within range of the reader, it automatically confirms the right to start
the engine and drive. If the connection is lost (the driver left the car with the license plate), the engine is automatically
silenced. It does not distract the user and offers maximum comfort. But, like other tangible media password, it allows
unauthorized access as a thief.
Trying to achieve maximum comfort, using Tlris multiple media, often leads to a directly opposite result - its conflict in
the next reading, and protection is activated.
Built-in password
The secret services of this type of tolerance are considered the safest. There are two disadvantages ÿ
it is necessary to remember the password and enter it. But cars with similar systems much less
kidnapped tolerance. And no password is more difficult than dialing a phone number. That is why many are already
starting to combine the low-cost system of signaling and protivougonki to set a password for access. And manufacturers
have time to adapt their production quickly. In modern prestige cars this mode includes a standard on-board computer
program.
Otherwise, the engine will shut down when braking for the first time or reduce turnover. This is where its main
disadvantage lies - not slowing down and stealing. Another extravagance - simple password, as it must be administered while
moving.
For example, a key fob or a Tlris card for external protection and tolerance with a password to start the engine. The most
stable system is the degree of protection.
Two-level alarm applies - warning and alarming. The alarm must be included if it did not respond to the warning.
It includes no reason, it just irritates, and soon ceases to attract attention. This is often used by hijackers,
especially disturbing chosen car. Sometimes using the monotony of helpful sirens - next to your car put the with the
same siren and periodically include. When the host stops responding, due to "training"
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moves to action. So make sure your alarm sound is different. Or buy a radio pager.
He will calmly promptly tell you what is happening with the car. Some pager connected to the
relay, including lighting the lamp of a parking lot and thus imitate watchful observation technique. But
note that the pager so easily suppresses jammers and there is always a chance to get up in the
morning sleep is sweet, but a little poor.
Immobilizer or forced-off
Foreign insurance companies require that the anti-theft device that can be locked at least three
components: starter, ignition and fuel supply. And as a consequence - a passive blocking
of the engine, if the processor is not working (disabled or destroyed).
Active also provides immobilization only when the processor. In addition to leaving the
possibility of using the car, in the event of failure of the security system, many of them used as
normally closed relay blocking contacts. These and enjoy the hijackers: just cut the power cable from
the main unit - and the system disarmed. To find it, even among the same thickness and color of
thread, enough ampoule with a sharp probe. Pierce the insulation of the wire to remain energized when
the ignition is off and the path forward is clear, even Losers.
If the wires of the blocked circuits converge into a single block, the thief only makes the task
easier. The solution takes a couple of minutes. Here again, the passive blocking advantage,
especially if mikroimmobilayzery and which are spread throughout the car. And besides, if regular
blocks are mounted on the car, thus neutralizing their bridge is simply impossible.
In systems that provide forced tapping the engine should operate alarm, warning that the car is
something wrong and it should stay away. Otherwise, there is a chance to return the car, the victim
not so much about the hijacker as about the unconscious neighbors on the road.
It's about suppressing armed robbery. When most prudent to allow the thief to drive away and at
a safe distance for you to forcibly turn off the engine. Mode is normally provided with the
special key fob. But the hijackers are likely to be taken out, and the movement will try not to reduce
engine speed. Since these systems also shut down the engine at low rpm below a certain level. Or
use jammer, then the need to take key will disappear.
And even likely - you will ride the car until you identify all the traps. Then he offered to turn them
all trained to do so and only then expelled. This is when the chances of the car's return almost no
longer remain.
More precisely, it was until recently. There were systems in place to call on the phone to block the
engine from a distance of tens of kilometers. In one of them, we learn
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recently, upon receiving a pager network "RELAÇÃO Telecom". In the attached list of services, therefore,
"peydzhingvaya security car alarm." The more we dive into the essence of the system, the more it will
motivate us. To avoid accusations of publicity, you cannot give your name, only the list of items to show us Ace of
Base ("ace in the package").
This is a specialized on-board computer with an "Intel" processor, trained to protect the car. The system
is built on mikroimmobilayzerah placed near or inside a control object. They can be up to eight independent. It can
include any number of sensors and smart sensors. Password and admission management system is handcrafted
with a two-button keypad. Status indicators, confirmation operations and some tips are made to show multicolor
signals and music. Maybe quick reprogramming to change the system algorithm. Laptop protected from
exposure to electrical or radio productions and remember to try to use them. The installation of the paging
receiver ("Motorola") to receive external commands. The simplest of them - pager sound processor on a radio
signal in the cabin loses one of a set of easily recognizable melodies. Therefore, it is possible to transmit
conditional messages to the driver without compromising the driving experience. The price system in the
minimum configuration - about two hundred US dollars, with the receiver - twice.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Let's talk about this over time, the lights start out dim, perhaps dim enough on a deserted road, but totally
ineffective on a lively one, especially if large counterflow.
Sometimes sin generator and a voltage regulator, it is the truth: failure of these devices visible in the
"movement" of the luminous flux, as it obeys the number of engine revolutions. It is clear that no matter the work
of the generator and regulator napryadeniya not only affects the efficiency of the lamps - the first to suffer the
battery, or not getting a full charge, or, on the contrary - it gets in excess of that "boiling" of the electrolyte .
Lights in this case played the role of an indicator, although excessive voltage greatly reduces the
life of the lamps. Constant as dull radiation occurs for other reasons: that of the inner surface very dirty or covered
with corrosive reflector, or covered with a dark touch of the lamp.
If the durability of the reflector depends on many factors, which we will talk about Yeshe, even quite serviceable
lamp "gain" a dark patina than some 30-50 thousand km. Its efficiency, in this case, is 20 percent below the new
one.
"Live" reflector for longer. In modern cars and glass reflective lamps are, so to speak, an indivisible whole,
which, in the first, of course, in turn provides the most optimal light beam, and the second - the tightness. This
lack of tightness contributed to the penetration of dust into
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the headlights, which is then burned in the reflector and reduces its vsetootdachu. The same thing
happened with moisture and actively kondensirvoavsheysya in the reflector, which is corrosive.
Five years ago, we tried to fight corrosion in some incredible way by shining the spotlight on red brake
fluid. Fashion is rather harmful than useful company has gone, but there was another extreme - the
Plexiglas "points" on the glass. In addition to the fact that this protection reduces the light output, it
"smears" the direction of the rays, which is caused by strong heating and burnout of the reflector. Which in
this case is the use of a safe otkamney glass reflector if the suffering -
Isn't it clear, furthermore, as has already been said, the glass and the reflector are now all indivisible?
By the way, so there is no reason to buy the "lens" alone: good light from a lamp will never get.
Finally, regarding adjustments. Even perfectly equipped lights with halogen bulbs, can be useless on the
road if they are treated in any way. Not everyone, and not always an opportunity to make a bank
adjustment. So, very good results give old, well-tested methods of "home" tuning. The machine is
mounted on a flat area, measuring 30 meters and placing a mark on, say, a brick. One of the
included headlights dazzle than a stop, and the second - turn the adjustment screws so that
the vertical border lighting to bring to lay a brick. The same is done and the other headlight. The main
beam is controlled in the horizontal direction, but without the bricks: here it is important to ensure that
the beams of both lamps are not bifurcated and converge in the middle.
01.14.26. "Galogenki"
GENERAL INFORMATION
The main reason for the rapid failure of halogen lamps in cars - a large current flowing through the
tube at the moment, as the resistance of its wires in a cold state is many times less than in a hot
one.
In this regard, it is recommended to limit current peaks through an additional resistance in series
with the halogen incandescent lamp filaments. After switching on, the lamp resistance is ignored
by a voltage relay, installed parallel to the lamp.
A disadvantage of such devices is the need to use one or two parts of electromagnetic relays with
insufficient reliability, especially in the vehicle experiencing vibration. Furthermore, at the time of
switching there is still a sudden increase in current, although to a lesser extent than with a lamp in
conventional circuits.
Experts have developed a contactless device that does not require the use of a relay and provides a
smooth increase in current in the lamp. The device consists of an additional resistor R1, two diodes
VD1 and VD2 and electrolytic capacitor C.
When passing the filament-beam to terminal 1 a positive potential is applied. This diode VD1 is connected in parallel
to the lamp filament capacitor C, and in series with it - to the resistance R1.
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When the positive potential conduction filament bundle is applied to terminal 2, and the capacitor C is connected in
parallel wire bundle through the VD2 diode.
In this scheme, the switching voltage across the EL1 and EL2 lamp is growing smoothly.
Resistance cold filaments of conventional and dipped automotive lamps is about an order of magnitude lower than the
resistance in the heated state. The time constant of the heating lamp filament is 0.0014-0.003 with.
To eliminate unacceptably large current during switching on of the lamp need to increase the speed of the lamp filament
resistance was greater than the rate of voltage increase. This is achieved by setting the electrolytic capacitors
4000-6000 uF nominal voltage to 25 V.
If you use these tips along with increasing lamp life and battery life it will last for reducing starting current and increasing
the smoothness of your rise.
Correct headlight adjustment is more related to driving culture rather than any technical problems. Pohtomu talk
about why over time, the lights start to dim, perhaps dim enough on a deserted road, but totally ineffective on a lively one,
especially if large counterflow.
Sometimes sin generator and a voltage regulator. Here is the truth: failure of these devices visible in the
"movement" of the luminous flux, as it obeys the number of engine revolutions. It is clear that no matter the work of the
generator and voltage regulator not only affects the efficiency of the lamps - the first to suffer the battery, or not getting
a full charge, or, on the contrary - it receives in excess of that "boiling" of the electrolyte. Lights in this case played the
role of an indicator, although excessive voltage greatly reduces the life of the lamps. Constant radiation dulling
occurs for other reasons: a very dirty or covered with corrosion reflector, or dark coating appears on the inner surface of the
bulb.
If the durability of the reflector depends on many factors, some even very serviceable lamp "gains" a dark patina than some
30-50000 km. Its efficiency, in this case, is 20 percent below the new one.
"Live" reflector for longer. In modern cars and glass reflective lamps are, so to speak, an indivisible whole, which primarily
provides the most optimal beam of light, and the second -
the tightness. This lack of tightness contributed to the penetration of dust into the headlights, which is then burned in the
reflector and reduces light emission. The same thing happened with moisture condensing on the active reflector,
causing corrosion.
Five years ago, we tried to fight corrosion in some incredible way by shining the spotlight on red brake fluid. Fashion this
rather harmful than useful company has gone, but there was another extreme - Plexiglas "dots" on the glass. In addition to
the fact that this protection reduces the light output, "smearing" the direction of the rays, which is caused by strong
heating and burning of the
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reflector. That in this case is the use of stone protected glass reflector itself the suffering - is it
not clear, on the other hand, that, as already said, glass and reflector are now all indivisible?
By the way, so there is no reason to buy the "lens" alone: good light from a lamp will never
get.
Finally, regarding adjustments. Even perfectly equipped lights with halogen lamps can be useless
on the road if they are regulated in any way. Not everyone, and not always the opportunity
to make adjustments in the bank. So, very good results give old, well-tested methods of "home"
tuning. The machine is mounted on a flat area, measuring 30 meters and placing a mark on, say,
a brick. One of the included headlights dazzle than a stop, and the second - turn the adjustment
screws so that the vertical border lighting to bring to lay a brick. The same is done and the other
headlight. The main beam is controlled in the horizontal direction, but without the bricks: here
it is important to ensure that the beams of both lamps are not bifurcated and converge in the
middle.
The most common failure in the electric motor - breakdown of insulation in the windings. Let's say you put the car in park and
turn off the forgotten "wipers". Three to four hours is enough to burn the coil. Or a rag left in the engine compartment niche
where moving wiper rod. Compressed motor with the same result for its windings.
Sometimes it is possible to restore the insulation that has weathered seat propped up with
engine oil. A much greater effect is slightly heated linseed oil, if it becomes anchored in several
stages, making breaks to stay to dry.
The same problem - the breakdown of the windshield - catches and electric windshield
washer. There is often a lack of attention from the vehicle owner when a water tank is empty,
or the liquid is frozen or "tightly" clogged jets, sprays or pump filter, and fuses in the electric
motor circuit are "bug".
In general, the fuse is better not to joke. This will not only prevent short circuit fire ending times, but
also easier to detect faults.
For a novice driver, the golden rule should be: the search for the cause of electrical faults
should start with the fuse box.
I remember when I bought my first car, it was still in the store and I noticed that the warning
light for the battery was on. Then the hypothesis was born that there must be a generator brush
not yet accustomed to, or "deceive" the voltage regulator (in which time automobiles were
equipped with mechanical relay regulators of Bulgarian production. Sometimes they work on the
"overload", and the lamp lights). Replacing the relay control gave no results: a generator did not
produce power. Replacing the brush assembly also proved futile.
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It was necessary to remove the generator from the system, pre-drain the coolant and remove the
thermostat. Checking the generator windings and "bridge" diodes showed that everything is in
order. Only then, after having done all this unnecessary work on a completely new car,
do I think to look at the fuse box. Of course. the corresponding fuse in the generator winding
excitation circuit was not simple.
So, if you refused a generator, start checking the safety. Even if it is intact, don't be too lazy to
clean the area of its contact. Only then seize the generator.
But do not rush with its dismantling and removal. First, check the brush assembly. The
presence of large chips on the brushes, their wear and considerable lubrication can already cause
a generator failure.
Pay attention to the condition of Contact Anchor rings, which are visible in the window, in which the
brush assembly. Scratches and grooves appear sanded and then polished. If these steps fail,
you need to proceed to the rectifier unit after disconnecting the wires from the battery
and generator. Check unit produced by a control lamp.The negative pole of the battery is
displayed on the generator socket, a positive one - through the lamp - the withdrawal of "30".
If the lamp lights up, this means that rectifier unit is broken and needs to be changed.
Sometimes, however, that either positive or negative block valves prbivaet. But these
details, perhaps it is better not to go, further as a separate replacement valve is not practiced.
Finally, the starter. This is perhaps one of the car's most durable units, though, and it "races"
it in the toughest conditions. Even when the engine is completely repaired, in a starter, it just
happens to change the brushes and clean slip rings.
The weakest local starter - advance coupling, or "Bendix": it happens to be a fly or lay-down
pressure rollers. And then, when starting the engine, you only heard the buzzing: the starter turns,
but the engine flywheel does not turn. Sometimes it helps to release "Bendix" in kerosene or
acetone. But craftsmen usually burn rings with rollers and either change all the details of the
cage, or they are washed.
Another common fault is more concerned not with the starter, and the oxidation of a cliff or a
special wicker tip bus connecting the engine to the body, that is, "mass" (the
tire is located under the engine). In this case, the starter motor makes a distinctive clicking or generally "silent" noise,
unless, of course, the "silence" is not due to another cause - disconnecting the positive battery wiring from the starter relay.
In any case, verification is required. If the posts on the relay website - hold the bus. But if posts still clicked, do not
try to insert it without removing the starter - you will waste your time. The starter will need to be dismantled.
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14.2. Wiring
GENERAL INFORMATION
Signaling and lighting device interior lighting symbols: check their operation.
Washing machine: check operation, check nozzle position, check headlight washers.
SWITCHES
ORDER PERFORMANCE
2. Light the alarm for about 30 seconds and then put out the fire. Check that all lamps light up
according to the vehicle's equipment.
3. installation of alarm systems and seat belt tensioning systems (air bags) must be extinguished
within approximately 4 seconds at the latest.
4. Turn on the main beam, powered by a flashing warning lights and check the alarm.
Outdoor lighting
ORDER PERFORMANCE
1. Check the front glass sensors and rear lighting for damage and water penetration.
3. Place the controller in different positions (offset) the angle of the optical axis of the headlights and check whether the two
lights light simultaneously.
3. Boosting the antenna, or turning off the receiver will automatically make its decrease.
GENERAL INFORMATION
If you want to determine the fault in the electrical system, or install additional electrical equipment, you cannot do
without circuit diagrams. Based on your detected current path and thus the wiring. The corresponding circuit must be
closed, otherwise the electric current cannot flow. This, for example, is not sufficient when the positive terminal
connected lights if simultaneously through connection to the housing is not closed electrical circuit.
Some electrical circuits may contain switches, relays, fuses, measuring devices, electric motors or other electrical
components. In the explanation for the circuit except for the switching circuits are shown with details of the relevant
coordinate positions. Each circuit diagram is divided into search field letters (A to M) on the left and right edge, and
numerals on the top and bottom edge. Found detail communication scheme is at the intersection of the existing view
of the horizontal and vertical lines emanating from the corresponding letters and belonging to this figure, which in the
form of coordinate positions are located in the explanation behind the circuit element.
Car variants and special equipment are framed by a dashed line and marked with the symbol, which is shown on the
following page or a suitable explanation. The direction of movement in the diagram represented by the symbol "X".
Wiring connection data
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field with consumers, switches, etc. match the marking of these components on the vehicle. However, several large digits
indicate the marking of dedicated circuit terminals. For better passage can be traced wires that connect individual wires
have different colors.
GENERAL INFORMATION
AB - Airbag
AG - Automatic Transmission
ASR - system for controlling the driving wheels sliding in relation to the reference surface
FSA - Intercom
CAT - Catalyst
KI - combined instrument
MG - Manual transmission
PMS - Electronic pneumatic control system for gasoline injection and ignition from Bosch
STH heating body when the heater action independent of the engine -
TEL - Telephone
CODE PAINTING
bl blue
br brown
II ivory
ge yellow
gn green
gr = nf natural gray
LOL pink
rt red
sw black
vi = ws violet white
In two-color yarn letter before the slash indicates the basic color of the yarn, and behind it - in the coloring of the striped.
Before painting the wire is a cross section (thick wire) mm square.
Example: 0.75 SW/ RT means: black/ red wire with a cross section of 0.75 square mm. Location of points on
the weight of the vehicle body
W6 - the mass of the trunk (the rotation of the wheel to the left)
W7 - the mass of the torso (the rotation of the steering wheel to the right)
W16 / 3 - the mass of the left-hand engine compartment, the specific gravity
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W16/4 - the mass of the right-hand engine compartment, the specific gravity
W16 / 5 - the mass of the left-hand engine compartment, the mass of the electronic unit
W16 / 6 - the mass of the right-hand engine compartment, the mass of the electronic unit
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
G1 Battery 6A
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G2 Generator 14M
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
TO 1 Combined device 4A 7M
A2 Radio 21A
Pneumatic control device, the system locks the doors with central control
A37/2 2M
(ZV)
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Pneumatically controlled device, the system blocks the doors with central control (ZV),
A37/4 2M
maintaining the vacuum in the intake manifold (SRU)
E6 /
Flashlight 25A
1e1
E6 /
Flashlight 24A
2E1
E15/2 Ceiling lighting with a delay off and front light for reading 4M
F1/1 Fuse socket 12 alopecia, in the fuse box and relay box F1
F1/1-
Fuse 1.56b terminal 11G
1
F1/1-
4 Fuse, terminal 30 1G
4
F1/1-
6 Fuse, terminal 15 1G
6
F1/1-
Fuse 7, 56b terminal 11G
7
F1/1-
Fuse 12, terminal 15 38G
12
Socket for blowing the current 5-alopecia maximum, in the fuse box and relay box
F2 F1
Combined relay (flashing warning lights, heated engine rear wiper window)
N10 6A
S2/2
Spark plugs turn off 17A
=
S4 Combination switch 9A
A starter lock switch and automatic shutdown switch and reverse light/second and third
S16/1 gear recognition 36A
W16 /
Total weight of space to the left, specific gravity
3
W16 /
Aggregate weight of space to the right, specific gravity
4
X18 Shtekkernoe connection. Interior space/harness for the rear lamps 18F 24H
X26 /
Shtekkernoe composite motor / body 24 pin 36D
25
Bushings flashing warning lights on the left side, the combined relay power supply
Z30/1 28N
Bushings flashing warning lights on the right, the combined relay power supply
Z30/2 32H
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
A2 Radio 1M 9M
Pneumatic control device, the system locks the doors with central control (ZV)
A37/2 14A
Pneumatically controlled device, the system blocks the doors with central control
A37/4 14A
(ZV), maintaining the vacuum in the intake manifold (SRU)
F1/1 Fuse socket 12 alopecia, in the fuse box and relay box F1
F1/1-
Terminal Fuse 2, 15B 4L
two
R3e1 Lighting 5M
S17/3 Door light switch on the back of the front left 15M 17M
S17/5 Door light switch on the back of the left rear 29M
S88 /
Shtekkernoe Connect Interlock Volte cover (comfortable) 26K
2x1
Weight of the cross member in front of the seat frame to the right, the junction
W19 with the undesignated mass, the structural member is located directly on
the engine, chassis and body
The intermediate shtekkernoe door light switch compound on the back of the entrance /
X34/3 exit of a lantern that illuminates the door 17I
right front
Z7/1 30 terminal bushings for door locks with central control 28F
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
A2 Radio 14M
Pneumatic control device, the system locks the doors with central control (ZV)
A37/2 27M
Pneumatically controlled device, the system blocks the doors with central control
A37/4 (ZV), maintaining the vacuum in the intake manifold (SRU) 27M
B4/2 Fuel level indicator sensor on the right side of the tank 25M
Flashlight 12M
E6/1e1
E6 /
Flashlight 11M
2E1
Ceiling lighting the ceiling with a delay and turn off a lamp in front of a reading
E15/2 29M
F1/1-
4 Fuse, terminal 30 7pm
4
F1/1-
6 Fuse, terminal 15 6L
6
F1/1-
Fuse 12, terminal 15 6L
12
G2 Generator 3A
The control unit of the engine management system with the help of a hot film
N3/4 21M 22M
(HFM)
Combined relay (flashing warning lights, heated rear window, engine windshield)
N10 9M
N30 /
The ASR control device 2A 5A 32M 38M
1
N30 /
Automatic differential lock control device 39M 2M
two
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S10 /
Brake linings Shtekkernoe connections contact wear right front 34C 37C
2x1
S17/3 Door light switch on the back of the front left 27M
W16 /
Total weight of space to the left, specific gravity
3
W16 /
Aggregate weight of space to the right, specific gravity
4
Weight of the cross member in front of the seat frame to the right, the
W19 junction with the undesignated mass, the structural member is located
directly on the engine, chassis and body
X11/4 Test Coupling for Technical Diagnosis 21I 22I 23i 34i
Shtekkernoe connection between the interior space and wiring for the rear
X18 11F 27i 17H
position lights
X26 /
Shtekkernoe connection between motor and body, 24 poles 3E 20I
25
X28 / The intermediate shtekkernoe composite airbag from the passenger to the driver's side
33H
12
H62 / Shtekkernoe Connect Speed Sensor/Brake Pad Wear Indicator (BBV) Rear Axle
35K
1
H62 / Shtekkernoe Connect Speed Sensor/Brake Pad Wear Indicator (BBV) Rear Axle
36k
two
H62 /
One wire connector signal higher forward speed, unipolar 27F 37I
12
Z2 TD bushings 22I
Bushings control ABS, powered by the ASR system unit, 32I control
Z23
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
A1e34 33A
A2 Radio 12M
A37 / Pneumatic control device, the system locks the doors with central control
30M
two
(ZV)
A37 / Pneumatically controlled device, the system blocks the doors with central 30M
4
control (ZV), maintaining the vacuum in the
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E6 /
Flashlight 9M
1e1
E6 /
Flashlight 9M
2E1
Ceiling lighting the ceiling with a delay and turn off a lamp in front of a reading
E15/2 33M
F1/1-
4 Fuse, terminal 30 16G
4
F1/1-
Fuse 12, terminal 15 4L
12
G2 Generator 2A
N15 Turn off the kick-down device 20M 22M 24M 27M
N15 /
Engine speed control unit 24M
two
S4 Combination switch 8M
S17/3 Door light switch on the back of the front left 31M
W16 /
Total weight of space to the left, specific gravity
3
Weight of the cross member in front of the seat frame to the right, the
W19 junction with the undesignated mass, the structural member is located
directly on the engine, chassis and body
Shtekkernoe connection between the interior space and wiring for the
X18 8G 14H 30I
rear position lights
X26 /
Shtekkernoe connection between motor and body, 24 poles 2E 16I
25
Z2 TD bushings 23i
GENERAL INFORMATION
GENERAL INFORMATION
F1/1-
6 Fuse, terminal 15 13B
6
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F1/1-
Fuse 12, terminal 15 18L
12
G1 Battery 2A
G2 Generator 15M
M1 Start-up 5M 9M
S2/2
Change starts to heat up 6A
=
Terminal weight of the engine compartment on the left, the bus terminal mass
W16 /
without mass notation directly on the engine, resp., The
3
body
X18 /
4 poles connection is shtekkernoe warning buzzer (cab/Infrared) 8D
18
X26 /
24-pole connection is shtekkernoe motor / body 5I 7I
25
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