Basic + Professional Kurti (Cross Tucks And Shoulder Tucks)

 In This Type Of Kurti, A Puff Has To Be Formed On The Main Chest By Applying Cross Tucks Or Armhole
Tucks Or Shoulder Tucks, Therefore, Apply 0.50 To 1 Inch Of Looseness In The Upper Chest.
(The Upper Chest Is Mostly Made With 1 Inch Of Loosening) And Make Without Loosening In Main Chest.
(If The Customer Wants Body Fitting Then Make It According To This Method)
Body Measurements Can Be Made By Subtracting 0.50 Inch From The Main Chest Or By Adding 0.50 Inch
If Necessary.
(1) Now After Marking According To Basic Cutting, First Back Part Cutting Has To Be Done, But For Back
Tucks, Mark It As Explained In The Measurement Chart And Mark The Front And Back Armhole Rounds As
Per The Across Measurement, Keep In Mind That The 4th Part Of The Main Chest Round Is Not To Be
Marked On The Line Of The Apex Point. (For Now, Mark Only A Straight Line On The Line Of Apex Point)
(2) Now We Have To Mark The Total Measurement Of The Ready Main Chest On The Line Of The Apex Point,
So See Here The Margin Of The Back Tucks Is Being 1 Point, Hence Leaving A Margin Of 1 Point, The
Measurement Of The Main Chest Till The Stitching Line Of The Back Part Is That. Keeping The
Measurement At 1 Point, Mark Half Of The Ready Main Chest Round On The Side Seam, Like Here The
Ready Main Chest Round Is 36.50 So Mark Half Of It At 18.25.
(2-B) Now Double The Difference Between The Side Stitch Mark Of The Back Part And The Half Mark Of The
Total Main Chest And Write Down The Measurement Somewhere Or Remember It, This Measurement
Will Be Marked Below The Armhole Length On The Front Part (Distance 0.75 × 2 = 1.50)
(3) Now Place The Back Part On The Paper And Mark The Shoulder And Upper Chest And Mark The Apex
Point And Mark The Straight Line And Mark A Little More On The Line Of Shoulder Slope And Cut The
Shoulder Of The Front Part. (Cutting Has To Be Done 0.50 Inches Below The Regular Line)
(3-B) Now Mark The Total Of The Main Chest Round On The Line Of The Apex Point, I.E. Leave A Margin Of 1
Point Of Tucks On The Back Part, Place The Measurement Obtained On The Front Part And Mark Half Of
The Main Chest. (Which We Just Marked On the Main Chest Line of the Back Part) Now Mark The Ready
Main Chest From The Apex Point By Compass And Mark A Round Shape Towards The Waist.
(4) Now In The Back Part, Mark Double The Measurement Of The Main Chest Line Below The Armhole
Length Of The Front Part And Mark A Straight Line There, After This Place The Back Part On This Mark And
Mark The Straight Line By Taking The Waist Length.
(5) Now Measure The Length Of The Side Part Of The Back Part (To Measure The Sewing Line) And Remember
This Measurement Or Write It Down Somewhere.
Now Measure From The Armhole Length In The Front Part To The Mark Of The Ready Main Chest, Now
Measure The Measurement That Has Come On The Round Shape Above The Waist Length (Which Is Done
By Compass) And Do Mark The Measurement Equal To The Side Length Of The Back Part.
(5-B) Now See Here The Amount Of Part Left Is The Measure Of The Width Of The Cross Tucks, Now By Making A
Cross Mark From The Bottom Mark Towards The Apex Point, The Cross Tucks Is Formed Here.
(There Is No Fixed Measurement Of The Width Of The Cross Tucks, Because This Measurement Is Based
On The Loosening Applied In The Upper Chest And Main Chest And Waist, If More Loosening Is Applied In
The Waist Then The Width Of The Cross Tucks Is Also Less, About This Will Understand In Different Lectures)
(6) Now Mark The Center By Halving The Shoulder Measurement From The Neck Broadness And Mark A
Straight Line From This Mark Towards The Apex Point, This Becomes The Centre Line Of The Shoulder Tucks.
(7) Divide The Difference Between Body Measurement, Upper And Main Chest By 8th And Halve The
Measurement And Mark On The Upper Chest Line On Both Sides Of The Centre Line Of The Shoulde Tucks.
Body Measurement Upper Chest -35 and Body Measurement Main Chest -36.50
There Is A Difference of 1.50 Inches between the Two, 1.50 ÷ 8 = 0.18(0.25 Inches Is To Be Understood),
0.25 ÷ 2 = 1 Point.
Now Connect These Two Marks from the Apex Point and Mark Towards The Shoulder, In This Way
The Width Of The Shoulder Tucks Is Formed Here
(8) Now You Have To Pack The Shoulder Tucks, See Here That After Packing The Tucks, The Shoulder Slope
Will Not Be In Straight Shape, Hence Make A Little Joint Here And Pack It Temporarily By Applying
Cello-Tape And Mark Of The 4th Part Of The Ready Upper Chest On The Line Of The Upper Chest.
(Earlier Mark Gets Reduced After Applying Tucks, Hence Here It Has To Be Marked Again)
(8-B) Now Place The Back Part On The Line Of The Shoulder Slope (Where The Extra Line Is) And Mark The
Shoulder And Make A Temporary Mark Of The Shoulder Slope, After This Mark The Front Armhole Round
Across The Length From The Shoulder Slope With A Tracing Wheel And Mark The Front Armhole Shape
From The Upper Chest To Across Length With A Tracing Wheel And Mark The Complete Armhole
Shape By Removing The Back Part.
(9) Now See That There Is More Corner In The Shoulder Of The Front Part Towards The Armhole, Then Mark A
Square Shape From The Shoulder Side (Top Side) And Do The Cutting. (This Measurement Can Be Reduced
To 0.50 Inches and Even After This, If A Corner Is Being Formed Then You Can Mark The Square Shape
From The Armhole Side And Do The Cutting)
 Due To Excessive Cutting From Shoulder Side, The Measurement Of Armhole Length And Armhole Round
Gets Reduced But The Fitting Is Good. Now We Have To Check The Measurement Of The Body Armhole
Round By Measuring The Armhole Of The Back And Front Part, If The Measurement Of The Body Armhole
Is Less Then Just Loosen The Measurement Of The Upper Chest In The Front Part.
 (But If the Body Armhole Measurement Is Less than 0.50 Inches, Then There Is No Need To Loosen It In The
Upper Chest But It All Depends On Whether The Customer Wants To Wear It Tight Or Loose)
(10) Now Pack The Cross Tucks And Place The Back Part On It, Match The Stitching Marks Of Both The Parts
And Mark The Margin Of The Back Part On The Front Part And After Removing The Back Part, And Mark
With A Scale On The Stitch And Margin Mark On The Front Part.
(After Marking With A Scale On The Stitching Mark, There May Be A Difference Of Up To 1 Point On The
Main Chest Line, But This Will Not Cause Any Problem In Fitting)
(11) Now Cut The Armhole And Cut The Waist Length And Side Part And Open The Shoulder Tucks. Now You
Can Do It In Armhole Or Cross Or Shoulder Or Wherever You Want To Convert The Tucks.Now Finally
Check Whether The Answer Given By Dividing The Body Measurement By Dividing The Main Chest Into
8th Is Equal To The Measurement From Apex To Waist Length Or Not? Body Measurement Main Chest -
36.50 ÷ 8 = 4.56 (4.50 & 1 Point)
 If It Is More Or Less Than The Measurement By 0.50 Inches Then It Is
Fine, But If The Difference Is More Than That Then Understand That There May Be A Mistake Somewhere.
(Or Even If Waist Length Has Been Measured More, the Difference Here May Be More)
(12) If You Want To Make Collar Neck Or Bandh Neck Or Deep Neck Or Whatever In Front And Back Part Then
Convert It, The Process Which We Have Understood In The Blouse Course. Now For The Deep Neck Falling
Process In The Back Part, The Cloth Up To Waist Length Has To Be Cut And Processed Separately And After
The Final Process In The Paper Of The Front Part, Keep It On The Main Cloth And Do The Cutting.
(13) Now Set Both The Parts Facing Each Other On The Shoulder Stitch And See Whether The Shape Of The
Armhole Side Is Correct Or Not. If The Shape Of The Armhole Is Protruding Then Mark It Properly And Do
The Cutting And Do The Same Process After Cutting The Neck Of The Front And Back Part. If The Total
Shoulder Measurement Of Both The Parts Is More Or Less, Then Cut The Neck Broadness Of The Back Part
According To The Neck Broadness Of The Front Part Or The Greater Measurement Of The Back Shoulder
Can Also Be Converted Into A Back Shoulder Tucks. (Back Shoulder Tucks Is To Be Made From Neck
Broadness And Centre Mark Of Shoulder To Across Length)
(14) If Tight Fitting Is Required In The Front Part Towards The Waist, Then Like A Back Tucks, There Is A Need
To Apply The Tucks From The Apex Point Till The Cut-Length Or Hip Length.
(But If The Stomach Part Is Protruding Much From The Body Then This Tucks Can Be Worn But It Shoul de
Be Loose Fitting From The Waist)