3020

THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO

RADIO CONTROL
SPORT FLYING
DOUGLAS R. PRATT

Includes Information from the

Academy of Model Aeronautics
 FORD CITY
PENNSYLVANIA
PUBLIC LIBRARY
 (

THE BEGINNER'S GUIDE TO

RADIO CONTROL
SPORT FLYING
DOUGLAS R. PRATT
! i ./

TAR TAB BOOKS Inc.

IMP Blue Ridge Summit, PA
 FIRST EDITION
THIRD PRINTING

Copyright © 1988 by TAB BOOKS Inc.

Printed in the United States of America

Reproduction or publication of the content in any manner, without express

permission of the publisher, is prohibited. No liability is assumed with respect to
the use of the information herein.

Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data

Pratt, Douglas R.
The beginner’s guide to radio control sport flying.

Includes index.
1. Airplanes—Models—Radio control. I. Title.
TL770.P68 1988 629.133'134 88-2268
ISBN 0-8306-9320-3 (pbk.)

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sale. For information and a catalog,
please contact TAB Software Department,
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 Contents

Introduction v

1 This Rewarding Hobby 1

The Model Industry • Diversity: An Airplane for Everyone • Keeping Up: RC Magazines • Trade
Shows • The Academy of Model Aeronautics • ModelNet

2 Your Workshop 14
Workshop Layout • Adhesives • Fillers • Building Boards • Tools and Accessories

3 What You Need to Know about Radio Systems 22

Where It All Came From • The Frequency Phase-In Plan • AMA’s Transmitter Testing Pro¬
gram • The Straight Word on Interference • How Much Do You Have to Spend? • Radio System
Care • Batteries • Troubleshooting Your System • Sending a Radio in for Service • AM, FM,
or PCM? • Interference

4 Trainer Airplanes and Basic Construction Techniques 38

Where to Get Your First Airplane • What Makes a Good Trainer Kit? • Starting with Sail¬
planes • Basic Building Techniques • Installing the Radio System • Some Popular Trainers
Reviewed • ARF: Almost Ready to Fly

5 Covering and Finishing 66

Iron-On Coverings • Painting • Fiberglass Cloth

6 Flying: The Proof of the Pudding 82

Are You Ready? Your Preflight Checklist • The Pit Area • Running Up the Engine • Taxi-
 ing • Takeoff • Basic Maneuvers • Approach and Landing • Ground Equipment • Where to
Fly—Common Courtesy • Field Frequency Procedures • Field Courtesy

7 Two-Stroke Engines 101

Engine Safety • Carburetors • Glow Plugs • Maintenance • Starters • Fuel • Test Stands
• Breaking-In Two-Stroke Engines • AAC or ABC? • Lapped or Ringed? • Engine Maintenance
• Engine Repair • Diesels

8 Four-Stroke Engines 117

Relative Power • Props • Prop Kicking • Engine Mounts • Mufflers • Glow Plugs • Adjusting
the Carburetor • Breaking-In Four-Stroke Engines • Four-Stroke Maintenance • Fuels • Some
Popular Four-Stroke Engines • The Future

Appendix A Radio Control Manufacturers and Suppliers 131

Appendix B Magazines, Publishers, and Booksellers 139

Appendix C AMA Recognized Special Interest Groups 141

Appendix D Academy of Model Aeronautics Insurance Facts 144

Appendix E Academy of Model Aeronautics 146

Official Safety Code

Appendix F Academy of Model Aeronautics

Frequency Identification System 148

Appendix G AMA District Frequency Coordinators 150

Index 152
 Introduction

A fter all these years, fm still genuinely Ex¬

cited by model airplanes of all kinds. I still rush
An undertaking the size of this book is well-nigh
impossible for one person. I had a lot of help. John
to finish a model so I can fly, and I still frantically Worth, Bob Underwood, Jeff Troy, Lou Ward, Vince
charge all my batteries when there’s a forecast of Mankowski, and Chip Smith all helped with parts of
good weather. the manuscript. Geoff Wheeler and George Zom-
I wrote this book for the average RC flier—like bakis of Model Retailer magazine lent me a lot of
me. There are plenty of books around for fliers who pictures. Thanks, folks, for making this better than
are zeroed in on one discipline or another. Even it would have been.
though I’ve built models since I was eight, I’ve never I’ve been privileged to spend a lot of time with
found one type of model to dominate my time and Bill Winter over the last few years. Editor of model
energy. There’s just too much neat stuff around to magazines since the 1930s, author of more books
ignore any of it. than he can remember, and creator of friendly air¬
I hope you enjoy reading this book; I enjoyed planes, Bill has been an inspiration and a delight.
putting it together for you. I’ve tried to make it as Thanks, Bill; let’s go flying tomorrow.
useful as possible. In places where I’ve left things Anyone who does something like this book had
out, or not told as much as I probably should have, better have a supportive wife. My wife went out and
it’s because I didn’t have enough information. I bought a camera and taught herself to use a dark¬
figured it was better to not say anything than to put room so we could get most of the pictures here. It
in stuff I wasn’t sure of. There are undoubtedly mis¬ would have been impossible without her, and she
takes in here; when something you read varies with did a darned good job, too.
your experience, please write and let me know. I’m Thank you, Jennifer; this book is dedicated to
always trying to learn. you.
 Digitized by the Internet Archive
in 2018 with funding from
Kahle/Austin Foundation

https://archive.org/details/beginnersguideto0000prat_t0m0
 Chapter 1

This Rewarding Hobby

A eromodeling is a unique activity in many

ways. For one thing, it’s both a hobby and a
There is no information here about how to hop up
engines, or repair radios, or do other things that the
sport. The thrill of competition is there, and we can average guy is too busy flying to do. There’s plenty
train for it like any other athletes. But the vast of information on how to tell what’s wrong with your
majority of us treat aeromodeling as a hobby. We engine or radio, and advice on whether you should
do it for our own satisfaction. We build what strikes try to fix it yourself or send it back.
our fancy, fly as much as we please when we please, I’ve tried to cover many of the popular RC
and if we get an occasional trophy or award along model kits in at least enough detail to give you an
the way, so much the better. The activity itself is idea of whether or not you might like to build one.
the reward most of us seek. In several of the chapters, I’ve picked one or two
I wrote this book for the sport fliers among us. kits that represent the type of plane I'm talking about
I’m a sport flier myself. I’ve built a lot of kits, run and gone into them in detail. You can gather a lot
a lot of engines, charged a lot of radio systems, and of information about the other kits in this category
done my share of crashing. I’ve flown almost every from these discussions, not to mention building tricks
kind of model airplane, and listened to fliers who and techniques that apply to many other models.
specialize in all the different types. Sure, I’ve found The Appendices at the back of the book con¬
a few types that I enjoy more than others, but I re¬ tain a list of hobby manufacturers. This list doesn’t
main fascinated by them all. cover every company in the industry, of course, but
When I planned this book (and its companion most of the important ones are there. Please note
volume, The Advanced Guide to Radio Control that you can almost always purchase these people’s
Sport Flying, TAB Book #3060), I tried to make products at your local hobby shop. If your dealer
it as useful as possible for the average flier like me. hasn’t got the item in stock, he can get it. Manufac-

1
turer addresses are included here so you can write . . . and when you finish, you have the same picture
to them for current catalogs and product informa¬ that you saw on the cover of the box. I’m unim¬
tion. If you’re not lucky enough to have a hobby pressed.
store near you, there are reputable mail-order firms Why not use the same skills and turn out an air¬
listed in the same index. plane? You’re working in three dimensions, with
You’ll also find information on RC frequencies balsa wood (which has always seemed like magical
in the Appendices. Since the FCC approved new stuff to me) instead of printed cardboard. Most of
space for RC frequencies, the AMA has set regula¬ all, what you get when you’re done is capable of
tions for gradually phasing in the new frequencies. more magic yet: You can take it out and fly it.
You need to understand how this system works so If you’re a fan of full-size planes, you can find
that you know what frequencies are proper to use. something to fascinate you. Warbirds, classic air¬
It’s not complicated, but it’s important information. craft, modem jetliners and fighters—you can be fly¬
The information in the back of this book comes from ing one in a matter of weeks. If it’s the flight itself
the AMA Frequency Committee, and is up-to-date that fascinates you, you’ll be able to experiment to
as of the date of publication. You can always get the your heart’s content. One of my favorite planes was
latest information by writing to AMA’s Technical inherited from Bill Winter, a world-famous model
Director, Bob Underwood, at the AMA address. A designer. He and I have spent many pleasant hours
complete discussion of the Phase-In Plan is in Chap¬ discussing and trying minor changes to see how they
ter 3. affect its flight. Are you looking for relaxation?
There’s nothing in the world as relaxing as a slow,
THE MODEL INDUSTRY
smooth-flying sailplane or Old-Timer making gentle
I’ve been privileged to be involved in the hobby turns on a sunny day. Speed, aerobatics, nostalgia,
industry for a lot of years. Any industry is made up science—it’s all here.
of people, and this industry is made up of a great
bunch of people. To a man (or woman), they’re truly KEEPING UP: RC MAGAZINES
excited about the products they make. They’re anx¬ The model airplane world is lucky to have a wide
ious to tell you about their stuff, and they’re eager range of magazines devoted to it. Without excep¬
to hear what you think. tion they are fine publications, well worth their cost.
Aeromodeling has a lot to offer those who par¬ True fanatics subscribe to four or more magazines,
ticipate. The consumer is closer to the cutting edge and hoard them for their construction articles, kit
of technology in this business than almost any other reviews, and contest reports. Each of these maga¬
field I can think of. Someone gets a good idea for zines has a distinct character, appealing to different
a product and starts producing it. They might ap¬ types of people. I read them all, and I’d like to
pear at a small booth at a trade show. Perhaps they describe them to you. I’ll present them in alphabet¬
sell a few items at shows, and that’s as far as it goes. ical order so my own preferences aren’t quite so
Sometimes the product takes off, and the en¬ obvious.
trepreneur finds his spare time taken up with his Flying Models. Flying Models magazine, pub¬
project. It can end with a thriving business, or the lished by Carstens Publications in New Jersey, is one
sale of the product to another manufacturer who of the oldest model magazines around. It traces its
adds it to their line. In any case, the consumer has proud lineage back to the Flying Aces of the 1930s.
a remarkable access to the companies who design, The present-day FM is an interesting mix that
manufacture, and market the products they use. covers the sport well. It’s an “editorial sandwich,”
meaning that the ads are concentrated at the front
DIVERSITY: AN AIRPLANE FOR EVERYONE and the back, with editorials and product reviews
I’ve never quite figured out what people enjoy interspersed with the ads. The articles run through
about putting together jigsaw puzzles. It’s hard work the middle pages, uninterrupted by ads, with plenty

2
 of pictures. Despite its title, Flying Models has an similarity to a magazine called Computer Shopper;
extensive RC boating section. Bob Aberle’s excel¬ Model Shopper is tabloid-size with glossy covers.
lent product review articles are worth the cost of It sure stands out on a magazine rack. In fact, MS
an FM subscription. Their regular columns include is published by a company that puts out three suc¬
an excellent Giant Scale series by Frank Costello, cessful magazines for personal computer users.
a scale column by acknowledged master Dave Platt, The idea behind Model Shopper is to provide
regular articles on control line flying, and engine lots of current product information, along with com¬
reviews. mentary and articles about all kinds of models. RC
Model Airplane News. Model Airplane News is a big part of MS, but there’s plenty of material
is another magazine with a long and venerable his¬ on railroading, plastic models, and other kinds of
tory; they have been publishing for well over 50 model airplanes. It’s going to be interesting to see
years. The modem MAN is devoted entirely to RC how Model Shopper develops; it’s certainly a differ¬
coverage. It’s a large, slick publication with a lot of ent concept—and useful.
color photos and eye-catching graphics. Two of my RC Modeler. The largest magazine in the
favorite features are the page of “Hints and Tips’’ model publishing business is RC Modeler. Just about
by Jim Newman and Randy Randolph’s advice for everyone reads it, and just about all model compa¬
beginning modelers. You’ll find plenty of product nies advertise in it. With over 200 pages every
reviews, plus some very nice regular features on full- month, there’s no better way to keep up with new
size aircraft. product releases. Ken Willard’s “Sunday Flier’’
Model Aviation. Model Aviation is the offi¬ column is an institution to RCM readers, as is Don
cial publication of the AM A, and you get it as part Lowe’s “Flying Lowe’’ series. Clarence Lee’s
of your membership. Since the AMA covers all monthly column on model engines and regular en¬
model flying activity, you’ll find regular columns in gine review articles are absolutely invaluable.
Model Aviation for every category of model—RC, RC Report. The newest star in the model
free flight, and control line. You’ll also find a com¬ magazine sky is a unique one. RC Report is a
plete calendar of AMA-sanctioned contests, reports monthly magazine printed tabloid-style on newsprint.
on contest rules and AMA affairs in the monthly After less than a year of publishing, it’s gained a
AMA News section, and several pages of brief prod¬ strong reputation for its breezy style and ‘ ‘tell it like
uct reviews. There are always at least two construc¬ it is’’ product reviews. RC Report often has news
tion articles, and full-size plans are available. items faster than the other magazines that take
Model Builder. Model Builder magazine is longer to produce and print. I’ve been very im¬
one of the most complete model publications in the pressed with it, and I predict that they’ll get bigger
world. It regularly covers free flight and control line and better.
models as well as RC, and has been one of the ma¬ RC Video Magazine. RC Video Magazine is
jor reasons for the growth of Peanut Scale. There’s unique. It’s published quarterly, and it’s a magazine
often a full-size Peanut plan published in the center- intended for model fliers, but instead of getting a
spread. MB is always interesting; the personality printed magazine, you get a two-hour videotape.
of Editor Bill Northrup pervades it. Stu Richmond’s RCVM has been publishing for more than two
“Engines of the World’’ column is an engine fan¬ years. It’s professionally done by people who have
cier’s delight. Eloy Marez’s regular “Electronics won awards for their commercial video work. They
Comer’’ is another unique feature. MB is also home send camera crews to model meets all over North
for Bill Hannan’s monthly collection of cheery tid¬ America. RCVM also contains kit reviews and how¬
bits, “Hannan’s Hangar.’’ I never miss it. to articles. There are even advertisements. Rather
Model Shopper. April 1987 saw the premiere than trying to do what the print magazines do,
of a new major model magazine called Model Shop¬ RC VM concentrates on things that work best in ac¬
per. Those of us who are into computers noticed the tion. You’ll find that there’s too much to watch at

3
 Toledo is so central to the modeler’s year that many
manufacturers time new product releases for the
show. As a result, you’ll see prototypes and an¬
nouncements of brand-new stuff at this show. The
Arena is fairly small, and exhibitors complain about
the limited facilities, but complaining or not, they’re
there. Toledo also has a very large swap shop area
where you can dicker for anything from barely-
repairable planes to precious antique engines.
The traditional beginning of the modeler’s year
is the International Modeler Show on the West
Coast. IMS has been held for over 10 years in
Pasadena, CA, the second weekend of January. It
has grown steadily, and is now the major trade show
RC Video Magazine is a quarterly model magazine published
on videotape instead of paper. Each issue contains features for the California area. Because of the large num¬
on model meets, kit reviews, how-to articles, and even ad¬ ber of modelers in the California area, manufacturer
vertisements. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)
turnout is always high. IMS features some unique
events, such as control line and RC exhibition flying
one sitting; that’s why so many clubs show parts
by the famous Black Sheep Squadron right in the
of RCVM at their meetings. A four-issue subscrip¬
middle of the exhibit hall.
tion to RC Video Magazine costs around $100; in¬
On the other coast, the surest sign of spring is
dividual copies cost around $35, and back issues
the Westchester Radio Aero Modelers’ show in
never go out of print.
White Plains, NY, just north of New York City. The
Scale RC Modeler. Scale RC Modeler is a bi¬
WRAM show is almost as old as Toledo, and is just
monthly title that specializes in one of the most popu¬
as important to the large concentration of modelers
lar categories of RC. It contains more meet coverage
in the New York-New Jersey area. It’s held every
than most other magazines; the pictures of contest-
March, and features a large number of manufacturer
quality scale ships are always interesting. SRCM of¬
exhibits. There’s also a static model competition,
ten features articles on full-size planes that make in¬
where models in all categories are judged by a panel
teresting modeling subjects. There are also plenty
of experts. A large auction and several classes where
of scale kit reviews. They’ve recently begun a
youngsters learn to build free Delta Dart models add
monthly series that takes an in-depth look at ready-
to the attraction.
to-fly scale models.
The Pacific Northwest has developed its own
major trade show, the Northwest Expo. It’s held
TRADE SHOWS every February in Puyallup, WA, near Seattle. The
Ah, trade shows—Modelers’ Meccas. They’re NW Expo has grown rapidly; it serves an area where
held throughout the country each year, and the big¬ there are a lot of enthusiastic modelers, and the ex¬
ger ones attract modelers from around the world. hibitors are always pleased with the response. The
Smaller shows are usually sponsored by clubs, and facilities of the County Fairgrounds where the NW
draw hundreds of modelers to see displays of new Expo is held are excellent; there’s room for a car
products and participate in swap shops and auctions. track and helicopter flying demos.
The Toledo RC Show is the grandaddy of the The newest major show on the calendar is the
RC trade shows. It’s been held in the Toledo, Ohio, Chicago Model and Hobby Show. The Chicago Show
Sports Arena in April for over 30 years. Several hun¬ is held every year in October or early November.
dred manufacturers set up display booths and sell It’s organized and run by the Radio Control Hob¬
their products; booth space is always at a premium. bies Trade Association, a group of model manufac-

4
turers, distributors, and retailers. The show actually grow from one full-time secretary and some part-
opens on Thursday, but the first two days are open time help to a thriving operation with 45 employees.
to the trade only. It’s become a major attraction for
hobby store owners and buyers from all over the AMA Insurance
country. On Saturday, the fun begins; last year, well
The most obvious function of AMA is insurance.
over 20,000 people visited the show over the week¬
In the lawsuit-happy age we live in, an accident is
end. The Chicago Show is heavily advertised, so
very likely to result in legal action. Model clubs have
many of the people who attend are looking at aer-
even been sued for making noise. AMA members
omodeling for the first time. Chicago area modelers
are covered by liability insurance while they are en¬
show off their best in a large static exhibit.
gaged in modeling activities. AMA-chartered clubs
If you can attend one of these shows, it will be
can extend that coverage to the person, govern¬
an experience you’ll never forget. There’s no bet¬
mental body, or company that owns their flying field.
ter way to taste the diversity of this hobby; you can
This has saved a lot of flying sites; well over 80 per¬
find almost everything there. And the enthusiasm
cent of the flying fields in the country would close
you’ll feel from everyone, businessmen and cus¬
if this insurance were unavailable.
tomers alike, is bound to impress you. I’ve been go¬
AMA insurance covers members, too. If you cut
ing to these shows for almost 15 years, working both
yourself with a prop and your own health insurance
sides of the display tables, and I still get excited.
won’t cover it, AMA insurance will. If a model gets
away from you and causes property damage, and
THE ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS your homeowner’s insurance doesn’t cover it (many
policies specifically exclude model-related accidents),
The Academy of Model Aeronautics is the na¬
your AMA insurance does. You even have a fire,
tional organization of aeromodelers in the United
theft, and vandalism rider that will allow you to re¬
States. In its 50-year history, it’s grown to be the
cover up to $1000 of the cost of your modeling equip¬
largest sport aviation organization in the world.
ment if your house bums down or your car is stolen.
In a very real sense, aeromodeling as we know
Does all this insurance mean that aeromodeling
it wouldn’t exist without the AM A. RC flying is just
is unsafe? Hardly. Most of the claims that AMA han¬
one example. When RC began, you had to pass a
dles are for minor property damage or propeller-
test and get an amateur radio license to do it. AMA
related injuries. There are more serious accidents,
worked to have the restrictions removed and more
but they are rare; only two fatalities related to RC
channels made available. Eventually the license re¬
aircraft have been reported to the AMA. That means
quirement was changed so that an RC license was
there have been a lot of years of flying with no seri¬
similar to a CB license. Then the license require¬
ous accidents at all. Model flying is a safe sport, and
ment was dropped completely. Finally, thanks to the
AMA members everywhere are working to keep it
efforts of the AMA Frequency Committee, the num¬
that way.
ber of channels available for RC has increased from
eight to 22, with more to come in the near future.
AMA is governed by an Executive Council that The AMA Safety Code
consists of District Vice Presidents elected from 11 AMA insurance is governed by the Safety Code.
districts around the U.S. There are also two No matter where you are, if you’re involved in a
nationally-elected officers, the President and the Ex¬ modeling activity and are abiding by the Safety Code,
ecutive Vice President. Elected officials serve three- your AMA insurance covers you. The Safety Code
year terms. AMA Headquarters in Reston, VA, is consists of several simple rules that really boil down
the main office. Presiding over Headquarters is Ex¬ to common sense—for example, don’t deliberately
ecutive Director John Worth, who has had the job fly over people’s heads, and don’t fly an untested
for well over 20 years. Mr. Worth has seen AMA design at a contest or large public gathering. You’ll

5
find a complete copy of the AMA Safety Code in the Museum; they can go through the extensive collec¬
Appendices at the back of this book. tion of model planes, look at films, or use the Renaud
Library.
More Than Insurance AMA members can be especially proud of the
fact that no government grants, major foundation
Insurance coverage is only one part of being an
funding, or major corporate grants were used to
AMA member. Members receive Model Aviation
build the Center. It was entirely funded by AMA
magazine, one of the finest model magazines avail¬
members’ and the model industry’s contributions to
able. You can avail yourself of many AMA member
the AMA Building Fund. It belongs to us all. AMA
services, from help in finding a flying site to films
is the only aeromodeling organization in the world
and videotapes. You have contest privileges at any
to have built its own permanent home.
of the more than 2000 AMA-sanctioned contests that
If you’re in the Washington area, be sure to
are held each year. Your membership supports gov¬
come and visit the Museum. Write or call AMA for
ernmental liaison work that helps to keep our sport
directions and hours. If you have a group, please call
free of restrictive regulation. And of course, your
ahead so things will be ready for you. Groups can
membership helps to support the National Center
arrange to see the Museum during off-hours.
for Aeromodeling.
The National Center is AMA’s permanent
home. Located near Washington, D.C., it houses AMA Chartered Clubs
AMA offices, the Lee Renaud Memorial Library, and AMA has a network of well over 2000 chartered
the largest model airplane museum in the world. The clubs. You can find an AMA club in every part of
Museum has been visited by thousands of tourists, the country; major metropolitan areas often have
Scout and school groups, and foreign visitors. AMA several.
clubs often make special trips to the Museum, where Joining a club is the best way in the world to
they’re met by an AMA staffer for a guided tour. enjoy aeromodeling. Most clubs have excellent fly¬
Members have VIP status when they visit the ing fields where you can fly safely. Many have in¬
structor programs that will help you build your
piloting proficiency. Club meetings are a lot of fun.
Most of all, there will be plenty of friendly, helpful
modelers handy when you need them.
All AMA clubs require that you be an AMA
member before you can use their field. This is to
protect their insurance coverage. Field use is
governed by the AMA Safety Code, and whatever
local rules the club has put into place. Be sure that
you understand these rules and follow them.
Get involved with your club! You can do some¬
thing as simple as showing up with a rake on Spring
Cleaning Day, or as complex as getting your Con¬
test Director license and running a club meet. It
doesn’t matter, as long as you’re involved. You’ll
get the most satisfaction out of your modeling that
The Academy of Model Aeronautics has its headquarters way.
in the National Center for Aeromodeling near Washington,
DC. The Center houses the world’s largest model airplane
The NATS
museum, as well as a research library and the AMA offices.
(Photo courtesy AMA) Once a year, AMA puts on the biggest model

6
AMA has a wide range of activities. AMA club members all over the country work to publicise aeromodeling. Here, Chip
Smith explains the RC kit he’s building to a visitor at the National Air and Space Museum.

meet in the world, the National Model Airplane there are engine collectors’ get-togethers, sympo¬
Championships. The NATS travels around the coun¬ sia, seminars, discussion groups, exhibits, and spe¬
try, being held in places like Springfield, MA; Reno, cial dinners. A free daily newspaper keeps everyone
NV; Lincoln, NE; and Seguin, TX. Nowhere else informed on all the NATS happenings.
will you see every single kind of model airplane fly¬ Sometime during the week, the main RC site
ing in competition. is opened up for a National Fun Fly. This “fly
The NATS takes eight days, and is usually held whatcha brung’' event is a popular feature. You can
in July or early August. Over 80 different events take walk up to the flight line and enjoy yourself on the
place during these eight days. It takes at least three same field where famous aerobatics fliers compete.
RC flying fields: one for helicopters, one for soar¬ Manufacturers have shown up at these, and enjoyed
ing, and one runway where pylon racing is flown in the chance to fly their various products.
the morning and aerobatics in the afternoon. There All in all, the NATS is an experience not to be
has to be a paved site for the control line events, missed. Plan your vacation around one when it
wide open spaces for free flight, and an auditorium comes close to you. If you’re an AMA member,
with at least a 35-foot ceiling for indoor flying. After watch Model Aviation for regular announcements
the official events are over, unofficial competitions about future NATS sites. You can call or write to
pop up on the various flying sites. In the evenings AMA Headquarters for more information.

7
AMA members all over the country work with community groups to bring the magic of aeromodeling to people everywhere.
These folks are enjoying themselves, and so are the AMA members who are helping them build Delta Dart models. (Photo
by Jennifer Pratt)

MODELNET ModelNet lives on CompuServe, the largest

If you have a computer and a modem to con¬ personal computer network in the USA. Com¬
nect it to your phone, you can participate in some¬ puServe is based in Columbus, Ohio. They maintain
thing new in the world of model hobbies called a network of local phone numbers; 80 percent of the
ModelNet. ModelNet is a way to get your questions population of the United States can reach Com¬
answered and find what you’re looking for. It’s a puServe with a local phone call.
place to meet your friends and make new ones in What Computer Do You Need? Any per¬
a very large community. It’s a list of hobby shops, sonal computer of any brand will work on Com¬
model clubs, contests, and magazine articles that puServe. The only requirements are that it must be
gets updated faster than an ordinary magazine can able to connect to a modem, which connects it to
get printed and mailed out. It’s a swap shop, a trade the telephone, and you must have a program run¬
show, and a club meeting. ning on the computer that allows it to act like a ter¬
Some of all of these things are in ModelNet, and minal. Commodore 64 computers work great; so do
the result is something new under the sun. The any made by Tandy/Radio Shack. They don’t have
beauty of it all is that this is happening all the time, to be expensive.
and you can go there and be in it any time you want, What Does It Cost? Connecting to Com¬
for as long as you want, in the comfort of your own puServe costs you $6.25 per hour. The evening and
home. weekend hours are when most people use the sys-

8
tem. 300 baud is the most common modem speed, kits are sold at most computer stores. Some
and the most useful since it’s just about as fast as modems include a CompuServe IntroPak that allows
you can read. you to sign on right away.
CompuServe has thousands of local numbers When you log on the first time, you will be given
throughout the country. They can also be reached a number called a Userid. This is your universal
through two telephone networks, Telenet and Tym¬ ‘ 'phone number” on the CompuServe system that
net. You can find the numbers for your area and get serves as your identification. You will also receive
more information by calling CompuServe toll-free at a password. This keeps your CompuServe account
(800) 848-8990. secure, so no one else can dial up CompuServe with
If you’re one of the minority that has to dial a your Userid. You can change your password any
toll call to connect to CompuServe, you’ll have to time you choose.
pay those charges to Ma Bell. If you are not near When you dial CompuServe, you connect to one
a city, you should check with your telephone com¬ of their 40-odd computers, which greets you and
pany business office to find which CompuServe shows you any mail you might have waiting. Then
phone number will be the cheapest for you. you tell CompuServe what you want to do. You can
How Does It Work? To access CompuServe, GO to an amazing number of services, from detailed
you first subscribe to it. CompuServe subscription weather maps that are updated every 20 minutes

Crashing? It’s part of the game. Crashes all look bad right after they happen, but after you calm down, the pieces start
to resemble an airplane again.

9
to an Electronic Mall. If you type GO MODELNET, message board, go to any of the Data Libraries, go
you’ll be switched into the computer where Model- to Conference, read several Bulletins, or search the
Net lives. Member Directory. If you wish, you can type TOUR
On your first visit to ModelNet, you can look to see a detailed guided tour of ModelNet and how
at instructions, descriptions of what’s there, and in¬ it works. Typing HELP will let you select one of
formation about who’s running it. Then you select several instruction files. Wherever you go, there are
JOIN, and ModelNet asks for your name. You will instructions available to help you get what you want.
be greeted by name whenever you log back in. The Message Board. The main area of Model-
The Main Menu. The first thing you see in Net is the message board. It’s actually 14 message
ModelNet is a bulletin that tells you the latest events boards, one for each of ModelNet’s subtopics. The
and news. There will be a brief schedule of the next subtopics cover different subjects such as RC
few Conferences (more on this later) and a quick Helicopters, Plastic Models, Cars and Boats, Free
description of where to find more instructions. By Flight, Model Railroading, and the AMA NATS.
the way, wherever you are in CompuServe, you can ModelNet Subtopics.
always get help by simply typing ? or HELP. 0 General
Once you’ve read this bulletin, you won’t see 1 AMA Business and Contests
it again until it’s updated. You can reread it and other 2 RC Flying
Bulletins, though, from the Function menu. 3 RC Helicopters
The Function menu comes up next. It’s Model- 4 RC Gear & Frequency Help
Net’s “front desk,” where you select what you 5 Control Line Flying
want to do. You can read or leave messages on the 6 Free Flight Flying

A little epoxy, some patience mixed with stubbornness, and some help from your friends, and you’re back in the air again—a
little wiser than before.

10
 7 RC Cars and Boats Suppose you have a question or comment and
8 Sport Rocketry want to start your own discussion thread. Type L
9 Static Models (Leave message). ModelNet will ask you who you
10 Model Railroad and Railfanning want to leave the message to. Type the name and
11 Computers Userid of the person you want to read the note. The
12 Equipment Exchange Member Directory will help you find Userids of peo¬
13 The AMA NATS ple you want to talk to; we’ll tell you about that later.
You can also type ALL for messages that you want
When someone leaves a message on a Model- everyone to see and answer, or type SYSOP and
Net message board, they enter the name and Userid one of the Sysops will see it and answer.
number of the person they want to read the mes¬ Then ModelNet will ask you for a Subject for
sage. When this person logs into ModelNet, they your message. Type in two or three words that will
will be told, * ‘You have a message waiting’ ’ and can give people an idea of what is in your message, so
go directly to their message. But everyone can read they will read it.
and respond to ModelNet messages; they are not Now ModelNet opens a file for you to type your
private. message. Type it in, remembering that your lines
When you have read a message, you can reply should be no longer than 80 characters. You need
to it. Suppose you read a message asking for advice to hit return at the end of each line. When you’re
about how to paint a competition model rocket. You done, hit return to be sure you’re at the beginning
know something about this, so you want to put in of a new line, and type /EXIT. When CompuServe
your two cents’ worth. You can type RE to reply sees a / at the beginning of a new line, it interprets
to the message. ModelNet will open a file for you what comes after the / as a command. /EXIT takes
to type your message into. When you’re done, you you to the menu that lets you store your message
type /EXIT at the beginning of a line. ModelNet then on the ModelNet board. Type S to store it. Model-
shows you a menu that allows you to continue your Net will ask you which subtopic you want to put your
message, abort the message process, or store your message under. Select the most relevant one.
message on the board. When you store your mes¬ ModelNet will assign a number to your message and
sage, it is assigned a number and attached to the put it on the board where we can all see it.
original message. The Member Directory. So how do you find
Each message has a subject. Replies to that other ModelNet members who share your interests?
message have the same subject. The messages, re¬ You type MD at the Function menu to access the
plies, and replies to the replies form a structure Member Directory. The Directory lists ModelNet
called a thread. Message threads on ModelNet form members by the names they entered when they
online discussions, branching out from the original joined, their Userids, and what they’re interested
message. You can look at the ModelNet messages in. Not all ModelNet members are in this directory,
in thread order, so you can follow the discussions since you have to make your own entry; it’s not done
and add your comments at appropriate points. At the automatically. This is to give you the opportunity to
Function menu, type RT (Read Thread) to do this. enter your interests in your MD file.
If you want to see what messages are there, When you’re making your MD entry you can
you can type BRO (browse) at the Function menu. list the types of models you’re interested in, or any¬
This will show you the subject of each thread, and thing else you’d like other ModelNet members to
then ask you if you want to read that thread. If you know about you. You can change or delete your en¬
respond Y, you are reading the thread and can RE- try at any time.
ply at the end of any message. If you hit return in¬ When you search the Directory, you can look
stead of typing Y, you will see the subject of the next for first or last names, or any part of them. You can
message thread. search for Userids to find the names of the people

11
who own them. Most important, you can search loaded. You can read these .CAT files and get the
through the interests that people have entered. Sup¬ file names of the files you’d be interested in read¬
pose you’re a Control Line Stunt fanatic and look¬ ing. Once you have the name of a file you want, you
ing for like-minded folks. You would search the MD can simply type REA and the file name at the DL
for the word ‘‘stunt,” and you would see the en¬ Menu. The file will roll up your screen; you can cap¬
tries for everyone who had entered ‘ ‘stunt’ ’ in their ture it and print it out later.
MD listing. You can capture this list to your com¬ ModelNetters generally use the BRO (browse)
puter’s buffer, print it out, and leave messages to command to look through the Data Libraries. Typ¬
these folks on the message board. ing BRO shows you the files in the DL in the chrono¬
The Data Libraries. ModelNet has 15 Data logical order in which they were uploaded. It doesn’t
Libraries, places where you can go to read files that read out the whole file; it shows you the file name,
have been uploaded by other ModelNetters. Each the Userid of the person who uploaded the file, the
Data Library (DL) has a subject or specific purpose. length of the file, and how many times it has been
You can see a list of the Data Libraries with the com¬ read. Then you see a list of keywords and a brief
mand LN (Library Names) at the Function prompt. description of the file written by the uploader. Fi¬
To go to the top of any DL, type DL and the num¬ nally, you see a short menu that gives you the
ber at Function. chance to read the file, download it, or go on to the
next one.
ModelNet Data Libraries.
The Keywords make the BRO command more
0 General powerful. When the uploader sends his file to Model-
1 AMA Business and Contest Calendars Net, he includes a few keywords that will help you
2 RC Flying find his file. Suppose you’re looking for all the files
3 AMA Club Index in DL 2 that have something to do with the new RC
4 Hobby Store Index frequency plan. You use the command BRO/KEY
5 CL & FF Flying FREQUENCY. This shows you the names and
6 Product Reviews Library descriptions of all files that have the word FRE¬
7 RC Cars and Boats QUENCY in their keyword lists.
8 Sport Rocketry Conference. The third main area of Model-
9 Static Models Net is the conference area, usually called CO. CO
10 Model RR and Railfanning is for real-time conversations. When you hit your
11 Computer Programs return key, the line that you typed appears on every¬
12 Swap Shop one else’s screen with your name in front of it in
13 The AMA NATS parentheses.
14 Newsletter Library You get to CO by typing CO at the Function
15 Safety menu. There are several CO “rooms,” correspond¬
ing to the message board subtopics. Everyone
Suppose you’re looking for a hobby shop near comes in on the same room (18), and can tune to
you. Type DL 4 at Function to go to the top of DL whichever room they prefer. Multiple conversations
4, the Hobby Store Index. You see the DL menu, can be going on in different rooms at the same time.
which gives you the opportunity to look through the You can monitor other rooms while participating in
files in a number of different ways. If you want a the one you’re tuned to.
complete description of the purpose of this particu¬ We have regular weekly Conferences on
lar DL, you type DES at the DL menu. ModelNet, with special guests and topics for discus¬
The first file (usually) in each DL is a .CAT file. sion. Model airplane COs are generally held on
These Catalog files show each file in that particular Thursday nights, and model railroad COs on Sun¬
DL. They are updated regularly as new files are up¬ days. The topics are announced in the entry bulle-

12
tin. CO topics are often discussed on the message the connect time the Forum generates. A percent¬
board before they take place, and ModelNetters of¬ age of the connect charges that you accumulate while
ten suggest new topics for CO. you’re in ModelNet is donated to the AMA Museum.
Impromptu COs are popping up all the time. I’m ModelNet’s chief Sysop. Since I work at
While you’re in ModelNet, you can see who else is AMA headquarters, you can use ModelNet as a way
logged in by typing USERS at the Function prompt of getting up-to-date information on AMA activities.
or one of the DL prompts. If you spot someone Any questions about AMA business or model flying
you’d like to chat with, you can send them a line are welcome.
to invite them over to CO. ModelNet also has Assistant Sysops and Sub-
CO can be the most fun part of ModelNet once topic Managers who answer questions and help
you get the hang of it. You can use it to get help ModelNetters in their areas of expertise. These
with the system, find something you’re looking for, ‘ ‘dial-an-experts’ ’ will quickly answer a question left
or just make friends. under their message board subtopic. All of these
Who Runs ModelNet? ModelNet is one of folks are standing by to welcome you aboard and help
around 200 Forums on CompuServe. It’s run by the you enjoy using ModelNet. We’ve been having fun
AMA as a service to all modelers. Most forums are there for over 3 years . . . come and join us!
run by a chief Sysop who is paid a commission for

13
 Chapter 2

Your Workshop

T he first thing you’re going to need is a

comfortable place to work. It doesn’t have to
ple of clamp fixtures, light sockets with plastic reflec¬
tors and spring clamps on the back, that I bought
be really big; during my apartment-dwelling days, at a local hardware store for about $5 each. They
I once set up my workshop in a large closet. If you clamp handily onto the exposed joists in my base¬
want some dimensions, plan to have a table at least ment workshop.
as long as the longest wing panel you’ll be building. Occasionally you need light that’s spotted right
Six feet is quite adequate. on your work. I found a gadget a year ago that I’ve
come to appreciate. It’s called Brighteyes, and it’s
WORKSHOP LAYOUT a double flashlight built into a set of eyeglass-type
Your workshop should be well-lit. I prefer in¬ frames. The lights are focused inward so the beams
candescent lights because I like to listen to short¬ converge in front of you, and the batteries rest in
wave radio as I work, and fluorescent tubes generate containers at your temples. You can find this help¬
static. But if this isn’t a problem for you, fluores¬ ful gadget in the SIG Manufacturing catalog if your
cent shop fixtures are inexpensive and easy to install. local hobby dealer doesn’t have it.
I find that overhead lighting needs to be sup¬ Your shop should also be well-ventilated. Not
plemented by at least one movable lamp for close that you plan to do any spray painting or any obvi¬
work. I have bulbs positioned over and slightly in ous gas-generating things there, but you still need
front of my building boards, so I don’t cast as much good ventilation. Some of the glues we use give off
shadow over my work. The movable lamps help fumes. There are other chemicals in common model¬
when I’m doing precision work on small parts, or ing materials that you can wind up breathing. Even
during an electronic assembly project. I have a cou¬ iron-on coverings give off fumes as you iron them

14
 down. Then there’s balsa dust, to which some of CyA Glue Safety. There are some safety
us are allergic. So provide yourself with a window problems that you should be aware of when using
or some other source of adequate ventilation. super glues. First and foremost, they will bond skin
almost instantly. This is seldom more than an an¬
ADHESIVES
noyance, since the oil in the surface of your skin
You’re going to need glue. Furthermore, you’re quickly releases the bond. But don’t panic and try
going to need several different glues. Different tasks to pull away quickly when you find yourself glued
require different types of adhesives. There’s a be¬ to the piece you’re working on! Take your time, ap¬
wildering array of glues available in your hobby store. ply one of the debonders, and work it loose slowly.
Back in the 1930s, people dissovled old tooth¬ You will be free in about 30 seconds, with all your
brush handles in acetone to make model airplane ce¬ original skin intact.
ment. Movie film also worked well. I can remember Second, you should remember that the setting
using those tricks, although I’m not that old; I lived of CyA glue is a chemical process. In the course of
in a small town, and I depended on the U.S. Mail going off, all CyA glues give off heat and gas. The
for my hobby supplies. heat is noticeable when a drop of CyA glue on your
You’re unlikely to find one glue that suits all your hand that you didn’t notice goes off. The fumes are
purposes, although several come close. The best bet a strong eye irritant. Don’t get too close to your
is to have several different kinds handy so you have work, or you’ll catch this puff of irritating gas right
some when you need it. Then buy large bottles of in the face.
the glue you prefer. If you do, don’t panic. CyA fumes are an irri¬
tant, nothing more. Stand up and move to another
Cyanoacrylate Glues area for a few moments. It goes away quickly, leav¬
In the past five years, glue technology has ing you with a lesson well-learned. That’s the main
revolutionized the way we build model airplanes. The reason why your workshop should be well-
so-called ‘'super glues” are alpha-cyanoacrylates, ventilated!
compounds that form long chain molecules when Finally, some people are allergic to CyA glues.
chemically catalyzed. They “dry” through a chem¬ This might not show up right away. I’ve known peo¬
ical reaction, rather than by the evaporation of a sol¬ ple who have built up an allergy over a period of
vent. That’s why you hear references to CyA glues years, to the point where now they can’t bear to
‘‘going off” or “activating” instead of “drying.” be around the stuff. If you think this could be hap¬
Incidentally, there is no real generic term for pening to you, see a doctor and take a bottle of the
these glues. “Super Glue” is a trade name, as is suspect glue along. Allergies like these are rare, but
“Krazy Glue” and even “CA.” The leaders in the they do exist, so caution is advised.
field wound up with the same problem as Kleenex Grades of CyA Glues. When they were origi¬
and Aspirin: Their trade names became used as nally introduced, CyA glues were of limited useful¬
generics. Hot Stuff, Jet, and Zap are both nouns and ness, since they required a perfect fit between the
verbs in common usage, and you'll hear people talk¬ glued parts. Now there are different grades availa¬
ing about ‘ ‘Zapping’ ’ a plane back together or ‘ ‘Jet¬ ble that will fill gaps between poorly fitting parts.
ting” a fuselage. The confusing thing is, they could Accelerators are sold that set the super glues ins¬
have been using Hot Stuff! tantly. And debonding agents are available that will
After wrestling with the problems for a while, separate a CyA glue joint with no damage to the
most of the magazines started using the term glued pieces.
“CyA” to refer to all cyanoacrylate glues. Unless Thin CyA glue (Hot Stuff, Instant Jet, Regular
I’m referring to a specific brand, that’s the term I’ll Zap, Pic Stic, etc.) soaks quickly into porous sur¬
use. faces. It requires a perfect fit between the surfaces

15
 to be glued. But it is the most ‘ 'instant” of the CyA and the glue "goes off.” Accelerators make life so
glues. Dripped into the crack between two wood much easier, that they’ve become standard equip¬
pieces, it goes off within 15 seconds, forming a bond ment in most modelers’ workshops.
that is stronger than the original material. Satellite City, makers of Hot Stuff, have an ac¬
Medium grade CyA (Hot Stuff Super T, Regu¬ celerator called Hot Shot. Pacer, the Zap people,
lar Jet, Regular Zap, etc.) is the most all-around use¬ have an accelerator called Zip Kicker. PIC produces
ful of the CyA glues. I buy the stuff in the largest an accelerator called PIC Pronto. All of these come
bottles I can find. Since it fills small gaps, parts fit in pushbutton-type applicators. They set off the glue
doesn’t have to be perfect. It doesn’t soak into the very quickly; thin CyA will set so rapidly it’ll crackle.
pieces as quickly as the thin CyAs, so it can be used Goldberg, producers of Jet CyA, has an acceler¬
on very porous surfaces such as the edges of balsa ator called Jet Set. It comes in a pressurized spray
sheets. And it takes about 30 seconds to a minute can. Jet Set lays down a thinner shot of accelerator
to go off, giving you time to reposition the pieces over a wider area than the pushbutton applicators.
if necessary. It doesn’t set the glue off as fast as the other prod¬
Another nice thing about medium grades of CyA ucts, which is useful for places where you need a
is that they will usually bond oily surfaces. They’re few seconds to position the parts.
great for repairs in the engine compartment, for One of the most useful tricks for using acceler¬
example. ators is pre-spraying one side. Suppose you need
Thick CyA (Slow Jet, Slo-Zap, etc.) is stronger a really strong joint, or you have two rough surfaces
than the thinner grades, and will fill fair-sized holes. that don’t make perfect contact. Give one surface
It can take as long as two minutes to go off, making a shot of accelerator. Apply CyA glue to the other
it ideal for parts that have to be positioned, such as side, and mate the pieces. The glue will go off quickly
wing sheeting or long leading edge strips. and form a very solid joint. You should use the
There are other specialized CyA glues on the thicker grades of CyA for this, since thin CyA will
market as well. Flex Zap is a super-strong grade of soak into the surface very quickly. Jet Set’s ten¬
thick CyA, with the highest shear strength I’ve dency to accelerate curing more slowly than the
seen. I use it in places where I usually use epoxy, other products makes it useful for this trick.
such as around the firewall in the engine compart¬ All of the CyA accelerators will evaporate
ment. I’ve also discovered that Flex Zap is resis¬ rapidly if they’re left uncapped. They have a high
tant to the usual debonders, so don’t use it casually; vapor pressure and will fizzle out of the pushbutton
if there’s a chance that the piece will have to be applicators under their own pressure. They also
reglued, use another grade. You can always run Flex have the characteristic of gradually eroding the plas¬
Zap over the glue joint after you’re certain. tic nozzles of any of the applicators I’ve used. This
A company called Penn Industrial Chemicals has means that toward the bottom of the bottle, you’re
brought out a line of glues called Pic Stic. It’s avail¬ likely to get larger and larger drops of accelerator
able in the three common grades. There’s also a Pic sprayed on your work surface. This is why I don’t
Stic just for gluing plastic, and several grades of ep¬ buy the largest bottles of accelerator; I’ve tried refill¬
oxy as well as other useful chemicals. ing them, but the applicators are pretty much use¬
For more on how to work with CyA glues, see less after the second or third refill. I’m still looking
Chapter 5 on covering and finishing. That’s where for a really good applicator for this stuff, but until
we examine how to sand off the excess glue that some enterprising company comes out with one,
hardens out on the surface, among other things. what we’ve got works okay.
CyA Accelerators. There are several prod¬ CyA Storage. CyA glues have a definite shelf
ucts that allow you to chemically set CyA glues. life, usually a year or less. They are extremely
They work at different speeds and with different ef¬ hygroscopic, which means that they attract mois¬
fects, but they are all similar; you spray them on ture out of the atmosphere. After the bottle is

16
opened and air is allowed inside, they will gradually sheets. The reason for this is that most wing sheet¬
thicken and turn yellow. For this reason, it’s best ing has to be butt-joined along the edges to cover
to keep your glue bottles capped when they’re not the wing, and it’s well-nigh impossible to do this
actually in use. CyA glues are packaged in a nitro¬ without excess glue oozing up through the joint and
gen atmosphere so they will be moisture-free until drying on the surface. Aliphatic resin glue sands very
opened. easily, and is near the hardness of the surrounding
You can extend the shelf life of CyA almost in¬ wood. This means that when you smooth off the
definitely by storing the bottles in a plastic bag in sheeted surface with a sanding block, you will be able
your refrigerator. When you take them out, be cer¬ to sand right down to the surface of the joint, remov¬
tain to allow them to come up to room temperature ing the ridge of glue.
before you open the bottles. The cold will condense
moisture onto the bottles, and if you open them you Casein Glues
know where that moisture will go and what it’ll do!
Casein (or white) glues are probably the most
Don’t be afraid to stock up on CyA if the local hobby
common household glues. They’re made from milk,
shop has a sale, but be aware of the limited shelf
and are completely nontoxic and perfectly safe for
life. This is why I prefer to get my glue at a local
small children. For this reason, if you’re helping your
store where I know what they have is fresh.
daughter or son put together their first balsa wood
Aliphatic Resin Glues model airplane, you should probably let them use
casein glue rather than a CyA. It also washes easily
Woodworkers frequently use a type of glue
out of their clothes.
called aliphatic resin. The most popular brand is
Casein glues are easily recognized by their white
Franklin’s Titebond, but there are several others
color. The most common brand is Elmer’s Glue, fa¬
available in hobby stores. They are recognizable by
miliar to every schoolchild. I must have used gal¬
their brownish color. Aliphatic resin glues are water-
lons of this stuff when I was a child, building rockets,
based, so these can be thinned and cleaned off your
hand-launched gliders, and free-flight jobs. It’s just
fingers with water.
as useful today. Its major virtues are similar to the
They are very useful for wood, because they
aliphatic resins: gap-filling ability, great penetration,
soak into the grain of the wood and provide a bond
and good strength. You can easily use casein glues
that is usually stronger than the surrounding wood.
to form fillets. Thinned 50/50 with water and
I have a bottle of aliphatic resin glue handy for places
brushed onto exposed balsa, it makes a good quick
where I don’t want the quick grab of a CyA glue—
grain filler and sealer. Its sanding qualities are ex¬
for example, when sliding one piece into a slot or
cellent, like the aliphatic resin glues mentioned
hole in another. CyA glue will go off quickly when
above.
it is spread into a thin film by sliding two parts to¬
White glues are not as strong as aliphatic re¬
gether. Using a resin glue will give just as strong
sins, and they are not waterproof when they are dry.
a joint, and it won’t freeze up on you before you have
They also shrink as they dry, so fillets should be al¬
the pieces positioned where you want them!
lowed to dry completely (at least 24 hours) before
Resin glues fill gaps between mating surfaces
being painted over. I’ve found that out the hard way
much better than most grades of CyA glue. Since
once or twice, when the glue shrank away from the
it takes longer to set, it will soak more deeply into
hardened paint leaving a thin bubble of paint where
harder woods than will a CyA glue. Consider using
the fillet was supposed to be.
it for engine mounting rails, servo mounts, or other
places where you have to glue a hardwood like ma¬
ple, mahogany, or basswood. Epoxy
Many builders prefer to use aliphatic resin glue Epoxy glues have a lot of use in model construc¬
for sheeting a fuselage or wing with thin balsa tion. They’re fuelproof, easy to use, and very

17
Epoxy glues are available with several different working Epoxies are widely used to glue dissimilar materials, to fuel-
times. The most useful are the five-minute epoxies, for fast proof engine compartments, and for repairs, especially on
repairs, and the 30-minute epoxies for construction and plastic foam. Hobbypoxy Formula 4 sets up in four minutes
finishing. 30-minute epoxy penetrates the wood better, caus¬ for fast repairs. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)
ing a tighter bond. (Photo courtesy Model Aviation magazine)

strong. They bond everything, as long as the sur¬ very useful for things such as installing servo rails
faces are clean and oil-free. or wing dowels.
There’s a brand of epoxy made specifically for
hobby use, called Hobby Poxy. It’s available in differ¬ Plastic Glues
ent grades, determined by the curing time. I get the Occasionally you have to work with plastic in the
most use out of Formula 4, which has a working time process of building RC models. This is usually in the
of four or five minutes. This is perfect for joining form of engine cowls, wheel pants, and windshields.
wings, reinforcing landing gear mounts, and install¬ For these parts, you’ll need a plastic glue.
ing firewalls. I shy away from the tube-type styrene cements
Hobbypoxy also has an epoxy glue that is thix¬ for these parts. They’re specifically formulated for
otropic. This means that it has the consistency of plastic models, and are seldom suitable for the plas¬
a gel unless you’re actually working it. You scoop tics we use. Liquid plastic cement works much bet¬
equal parts of the thixotropic epoxy out of the cans ter. Put the pieces together and flow the liquid
and mix. Under pressure, the two parts flow to¬ cement into the joint.
gether like a liquid. When you apply this glue it stays There are a few CyA type glues that are for¬
right where you put it, without running. It can be mulated for plastics. Pacer’s Plasti Zap and PIC’s

18
Plastic Stic are the most common. These work very a lot of hobby shops carry them in their brush
well on RC model plastic parts, and have the other display.
virtues of CyA glues. Accelerators will set them off, It takes very little water to thin Model Magic.
too. You don’t want to thin it too much, unless you’re
Clear windshields are a special case. Many glues using it as a grain filler prior to painting. I use the
will fog the plastic as they set. Some CyA accelera¬ palette knife to work up a pocket of filler in the tub.
tors will fog them, too. I prefer to use a glue called A single drop of water will let you whip the Model
RC-56, made by Wilhold, for clear plastics. It dries Magic like meringue. Fluff it up and it’ll spread eas¬
clear, doesn’t fog, and sticks all kinds of plastics. ier and work into smaller cracks.
Working it is a lot like using white glue. You can put The other filler I use extensively, Epoxolite, is
masking tape over it to hold the windshield or canopy very different. Epoxolite’s main virtue is its
in place. It takes a few hours to dry, and once it’s strength. This stuff is strong enough to bear struc¬
dried it can be trimmed and sanded. It will stick to tural loads. You can form fillets from it or use it to
plastic coverings. Most hobby stores carry RC-56 reinforce load-bearing areas. It will fill in the space
just for use on clear plastics. between landing gear wires to make fairings. If
you’re building a scale model and the wheel pant fairs
FILLERS into the strut, Epoxolite will not only form the fair¬
Nothing is perfect, and you’re going to find a ing but will securely hold the wheel pant in place.
lot of places where you want to fix imperfections. When it sets it can be drilled, filed, and sanded.
A good filler material is the answer. It can help you Epoxolite is mixed from equal parts of resin and
make joints disappear, fill in dings and dents, and hardener. It’s easy to do, since the parts are of
even do minor repairs. It can help you form fillets different colors. Its a good idea to get it as smooth
and reinforcing joints between surfaces. The right as you can when you apply it; it sets up pretty hard,
filler will make your life a lot easier. and since it usually goes into hard-to-reach areas,
I use two fillers for different applications: Model sanding can be difficult. Epoxolite smooths very
Magic and Sig Epoxolite. They’re very different nicely with a wet finger.
products with different virtues. You can get Epoxolite, as well as all other SIG
Model Magic has become the standard filler products, from your local hobby shop. If you don’t
compound used for RC models. It resembles spack- have a hobby shop, by all means write for the SIG
ling compound; it’s white, comes in a plastic tub, catalog. It’s a valuable reference book in itself.
and thins with water. But it costs more than spack-
ling, and there are some very good reasons. Model BUILDING BOARDS
Magic has a better adhesion to wood and plastic than Your building board is one of your most essen¬
any other filler I’ve used. It doesn’t attack any of tial pieces of equipment. You really can’t do much
the common materials we use, so you can use it for without one. If the building surface you use isn’t
patching foam wings or forming fillets around the straight and true, your planes won’t fly right (and
edge of a clear plastic canopy. It has the same hard¬ may not fly at all).
ness as balsa wood, so it sands right down to the You want an absolutely flat surface, at least
wood without leaving ridges. It dries quickly, usually three feet long and two feet wide. This should be
within 15 minutes. large enough to build any average wing panel or fu¬
I have developed a few techniques for working selage side you’ll encounter right away. Of course,
with Model Magic. I use a palette knife to apply the larger the plane, the larger the building board
fillers and epoxies. It has a very flexible blade, and you’ll need. On the advice of my old friend Bob
it’s perfect for working the stuff into small cracks. Hoeckele, once editor of Flying Models magazine,
I bought the palette knife at an art supply store, but I acquired a solid wooden door. You can often find

19
doors at hardware stores that have some sort of de¬ ask for that aren’t available through normal distri¬
fect that makes them unusable as doors, like a bution channels.
scratch or knot. I’ve even seen doors with the hole I’m not going to be able to list all of the acces¬
for the knob drilled at the wrong spot. You should sories you can buy, but I’ll cover the ones I know
be able to buy the door cheaply, and give it a new of. We’ll look at building accessories here, and fly¬
purpose in life as an ideal building board. ing accessories in Chapter 6.
The board needs some sort of surface that you The key to a good-looking model is sanding.
can stick pins into to hold parts in place as you work How much you sanded the model is a direct meas¬
on them. I use large, flat acoustical ceiling tiles, ure of how successful it’s going to be, so any tool
which cost a couple of bucks apiece. I use wood that makes sanding easier is very desirable. ADC
screws in the comers to hold the tile flat against my Tee-Bars are long t-shaped extrusions of aluminum
building board. When they get scarred up from use, with sandpaper glued to the flat side. They make
you toss ’em out and screw down new ones. it very easy to sand long surfaces, such as fuselage
The ceiling tile accepts pins beautifully. It also sides or wing leading edges, perfectly straight. I also
makes an excellent cutting surface, since it won’t use several Perma Grit tools, which have metal abra¬
dull a thin blade that cuts all the way through the sives permanently adhered to a series of different
piece you’re working on. I use map tacks to hold shapes. The flexible steel Perma Grits are most use¬
plans on the board, and T-pins to secure the parts ful during construction.
over the plan. You can’t get along without sanding blocks.
Some folks use cork for a building surface, but There are many available at hardware and paint
it’s awfully expensive and not always perfectly stores, but I haven’t found one better than the
smooth. Wallboard such as Homasote will work well, Wedge Lock. Wedge Lock blocks use a sanding belt
and is available in larger pieces than acoustical tile. rather than gripping a strip of sandpaper at both ends
Pick out a piece with as smooth a surface as possible. like most blocks. It takes seconds to swap belts for
Peck-Polymers sells building boards in two different grits or move the belt to a less worn spot.
different sizes, 12 by 18 and 18 by 24 inches. These Ace RC makes several sanding tools that have grit
are made from hard balsa, and are surfaced abso¬ deposited on different diameters of dowel. The
lutely smooth. For $7 and $8 respectively, they’re pointed ones are especially useful. Finally, I have
a bargain. If you build small models, you should have a tiny one-inch wide sanding block made by Applied
one of these. Design and sold in hobby shops. It has a strip of
sandpaper wrapped around a thick layer of foam,
making it quite flexible. It gets inside fuselages and
TOOLS AND ACCESSORIES into tight comers.
There is an unbelievable array of tools and ac¬ For knives, I use the faithful old X-Acto num¬
cessories available for the RC modeler. No matter ber 11. I keep lots of blades handy, though; they
what you want to do, someone has produced some¬ dull quickly. Two sizes of razor saws are very use¬
thing to make it easier for you to do it. Many of these ful. These thin bladed saws have very fine teeth and
come from very small companies, often just one man are perfect for cutting through balsa blocks or
producing the device in his garage or basement. The spruce. For detail or precision work I favor the Uber
products are often of a very high quality since Sciver knife, sold by Model Builder magazine.
they’re made by hand. The disadvantage is that These are just as sharp as a razor blade and much
these small firms often don’t have the distribution easier to work with. Their only drawback is that the
or marketing resources necessary to make their thin blades are fragile and can snap if you use them
products easily available. It makes the job of the for harder work than they are intended.
hobby dealer more interesting, tracking down and I have an assortment of different files that come
stocking literally dozens of things that his customers in handy. They don’t have to be too expensive, since

20
This support is an Ace Super Cradle. The handle moves along the base for balance, and the supports in the front hold
the wing on the way to the field.

balsa wood won’t give them much resistance. A set of drill bits that have shanks over two feet long.
of Allen wrenches and screwdrivers of different sizes These are perfect for drilling holes deep inside
are essential. Try to get at least a few screwdrivers fuselages, which you will find you need to do from
with very long blades, so you can reach past engines time to time when installing pushrods—especially the
to tighten motor mount screws. throttle pushrod.
A small hand drill is another essential item. Every now and then you run out of hands, and
Cordless rechargeable types will work beautifully for need to hold something in place while working on
model building. There are lots of places where you it. Small cloth bags filled with sand or lead shot are
need a gentle, precise touch; for these I use the Ace just what’s needed for this. Bell Rock Industries sells
Handrills set. The Handrills are shaped wooden grips a set of bags called ‘ ‘Weight Mates” that do the job
with drill bits fitted. They’re very sharp and will do nicely and are very inexpensive. Your hobby shop
a lot of jobs. Finally, Harry Higley sells several sizes will have them.

21
 Chapter 3

What You Need to Know about Radio Systems

T his chapter will tell you basic information

about radio control systems. If you’re a begin¬
As RC grew and matured, people began look¬
ing for ways to make it easier to get involved. AM A
ner, read this chapter before you buy your first ra¬ was instrumental in getting a portion of the radio
dio. We’ll explain a lot of the terms you will hear spectrum (a band) set aside for radio control use.
experts use when they describe a radio, and discuss Eventually the license became a formality: Send in
how important they are. the application and get the ticket. A few years ago
If you’re not a beginner, you’ll find useful in¬ the license requirement was dropped completely.
formation here on the new RC frequency allotment
scheme that is in place. Major changes are happen¬ THE FREQUENCY PHASE-IN PLAN
ing in 1988 and 1991. This chapter will give you an
RC experienced rapid growth in the 1970s and
idea of how this affects you.
’80s. AMA responded by working with the Federal
Communications Commission to ease the restric¬
WHERE IT ALL CAME FROM tions and accommodate the growth. In 1981 a band
When RC began, you had to be an amateur ra¬ of 80 new frequencies was granted for radio control
dio operator to run the transmitter. This meant pass¬ use, 50 for aircraft and 30 for surface models.
ing a test (and learning Morse code) to get the AMA has been managing the transition by es¬
license, and paying a fee. It also meant building your tablishing a Phase-in Plan. This plan is intended to
own radio system, usually from scratch. The pi¬ make sure that modelers could use their existing
oneers of RC, like Walt and Bill Good, combined equipment for as long as possible, while encourag¬
modeling with their experience in ham radio because ing them to have their radio systems retuned to the
there was no other way. new frequencies, or to buy modem equipment.

22
 Before 1981 we had seven frequencies in the your transmitter is producing on either side of its
72 MHz band. They were designated by two-color designated frequency. The energy your transmitter
codes: 72.160 was blue and white, for example. produces is displayed as a steep curve or spike. The
Fliers hung ribbons of these colors from their trans¬ sides of this spike spread out and down. If they
mitter antennas so people could tell what frequency spread too far out too close to the top of the spike,
they were transmitting on. The frequencies were they can cause interference to neighboring channels.
widely separated, so the receivers didn't have to be The standard they’re looking for is 20 dB down at
too selective. 50 kHz out. This means that the sides of the spike
In 1981, 11 new frequencies opened up. need to be 20 decibels down from the peak at 25
They’re designated by channel numbers: 12, 38, 40, kilohertz away from the peak to either side. Again,
42, up to 56. The area between Channel 12 and 36 if your transmitter doesn’t quite measure up, you
is occupied by five of the old frequencies. Note that can get advice on how to have it properly tuned.
these new channels are all even numbers. That’s Most of the transmitters sold today are easily tuna¬
to maintain a spacing of 40 kilohertz (kHz) between ble by a technician with the proper equipment.
channels, which is safe for the old receivers still in Incidentally, this is a good reason not to settle
use. for the cheapest radio system you can find: The bet¬
In 1988 the old frequencies disappear, and even- ter the system, the easier it’ll be to keep it prop¬
numbered slots between 12 and 38 open. At this erly tuned.
point, everyone has to have either a new radio sys¬
tem, or an old one retuned to one of the new fre¬ THE STRAIGHT WORD ON INTERFERENCE
quencies.
Any radio you buy should be on a new fre¬
In 1991 the odd-numbered channels open up.
quency. It’s easy to tell; if the frequency is a num¬
At this point, you should have a receiver that’s capa¬
bered channel, it’s one of the new ones. Your hobby
ble of operating at a channel spacing of 20 kHz in¬
dealer might have some advice on which frequency
stead of 40. When you see an ad that describes a
to buy, based on his customers’ experience. In some
radio as a “1991 system,” it should mean that the
parts of the country, some frequencies are subject
receiver is capable of operating safely with other
to interference from commercial broadcasters that
transmitters on either side of it, 20 kHz away from
are between our channels and are splashing on us.
its frequency.
Legally, our channels are ours alone, and no one
should be causing us interference. But practically,
AMA’S TRANSMITTER TESTING PROGRAM there are so many TV and radio stations, paging
Since early 1986, AMA has been checking trans¬ services, industrial radio systems, and so on that you
mitters at trade shows. They use a spectrum can’t expect the FCC to inspect them all and keep
analyzer, a bulky and expensive piece of equipment them right where they belong. With the relatively
that displays radio energy on a screen. Switch on large number of RC channels available, there will
your transmitter, and the spectrum analyzer shows certainly be plenty of “clean” ones wherever you
how much energy it’s broadcasting, and precisely care to fly.
where that energy is. If you or your fellow fliers are experiencing what
When they test your transmitter, they look to you think could be interference problems, AMA has
be sure that it is putting out most of its energy on a program to help you. A District Frequency Coor¬
your assigned channel. If it’s off a little, no prob¬ dinator has been appointed for your area. His job
lem, but you should be aware of it. If it’s off a lot, is to keep track of interference problems. He needs
it could cause interference to the channel next to to know about problems you experience; if he’s get¬
you. ting similar reports from your area, he’ll investigate.
The next thing they look for is how much energy You’ll find a list of District Frequency Coordinators

23
in Appendix G of this book; contact the one closest of nowhere, with no other fliers around who will have
to you or AMA Headquarters if you have more their radios turned on while you’re in the air, you
questions. can probably get away with something cheap. But
think twice before you go for the cheapest radio on
HOW MUCH DO YOU HAVE TO SPEND? the dealer’s shelf or in the catalog. If it doesn’t do
Do you really need an expensive radio system? what you need, it’s no bargain. A poor radio is
That depends. If you’re going to fly in the middle worse; it could wind up costing you an airplane.

Some fliers prefer a single-stick

transmitter. This puts rudder,
aileron, and elevator on the
same stick; the rudder is
moved by turning the stick as¬
sembly. Throttle is on the left
stick. Here, Doug Christensen
is using a Multiplex radio
system.

24
 t

There is a very wide variety of radios to choose Seven channel systems incorporate this fifth
from. You can narrow down your choice by focus¬ switched channel, plus two more proportional chan¬
ing on your needs. You will almost certainly need nels. These are operated by slide switches or knobs.
four or more channels: one each for elevator, aile¬ I’ve used these extra channels for flaps, spoilers,
ron, throttle and rudder. Even if you have a sail¬ and lighting systems where moving the switch differ¬
plane, or a small .049-powered job with only rudder ent distances turns different sets of lights on or off.
and elevator, I recommend a four-channel system. Advanced Pattern (aerobatics) airplanes sometimes
Sooner or later, you’ll need all the channels. use these extra functions for in-flight adjustment of
What about the under-$60 two-channel radio the needle valve on the engine, or for variable-pitch
systems? Well, they’re really best for RC cars and props.
boats. I’m not saying that you can’t fly a two-channel Radio System Prices. You should be able to
airplane with a two-channel twin stick radio, but it’s buy a good four-channel radio for around $200. Your
not easy. Having rudder on the right stick is natural hobby shop will occasionally have specials as low as
enough, since you’d use that thumb to turn the plane $150. A five, six or seven-channel system will cost
with a conventional setup. But using your left thumb between $200 and $600.
for elevator will throw you a curve when you try to This cost includes rechargeable nickel-cadmium
fly something that puts both these functions on a sin¬ (ni-cad) batteries in the transmitter, and in a sepa¬
gle stick. You’ll have a lot of reflexes to unlearn be¬ rate smaller pack for the receiver. You’ll also get
fore you can make the transition. So leave the a charger that will charge these packs at the over¬
two-channel twin stick systems for the surface night rate.
models, where it’s perfectly natural to use the left The system will also include servos, usually
stick for forward and reverse. four, even with the systems that have more than
Cox Hobbies used to produce a three-channel four channels. The servos you need for the extra
system with rudder and elevator on a single two- functions should cost between $20 and $50 apiece,
axis stick, and a slide switch on the left for throttle. unless you need something special.
I really liked this system and was sorry to see it go. Some mail-order catalogs will list radios for less
However, at a recent trade show, they showed me than you can buy them in your hobby store. Should
a prototype of a new three-channel single stick sys¬ you buy mail order? If you know what you’re doing,
tem, so it should be available in stores by the time you’ll probably be okay. But frankly, I prefer to have
you read this. Kraft Systems produced a similar sys¬ the store nearby when I need service, parts, or ad¬
tem for about a year before they ceased operations. vice. That’s why I pay the extra $20 or so and buy
It, too, was excellent for small models and sailplanes. it at the hobby shop.
You will occasionally see systems like this in cata¬ What’s Good and What Isn’t? Almost
logs, but they are often priced so that you might as everything that you can buy today is good. All mod¬
well buy a four-channel system anyway. em radio systems are far more reliable than they
More Than Four Channels? What do we were a few years ago. For that reason, you’re bet¬
need with more than four channels? The fifth chan¬ ter off buying a new, modem system than a used
nel is usually a simple switch. The servo is all the one. A used radio might be tuned to an old frequency
way at one end of its travel, and throwing the switch that you’d have to get changed. You don’t know how
moves it all the way over the other way. This is in¬ well it’s been maintained or what kind of use it’s
tended to operate retractable landing gear, but can been through. And it might be hard to get parts for it.
also be used to switch a function on and off. For ex¬ There are some radio systems that cost less
ample, a sailplane can use this function for a releas¬ than $200 for a four-channel set. Polk’s Model Craft
able towhook. With a simple electronic switch, such Hobbies imports a system that is very inexpensive.
as the unit sold by RAM Inc. or McDaniel RC, you It doesn’t include rechargeable batteries, so you’ll
can turn a lighting system on and off. have to buy battery cells and a charger.

25
 Futaba makes the meat-and-potatoes radio sys¬ mitter cases. I have used several Airtronics radios
tems that you’ll find at most club fields. The popular¬ for years and never had a problem with them. Parts
ity of Futaba systems is an advantage, because parts availability is also excellent.
are widely available. Ace RC radios are a bit unusual. Designed and
The ACOMS radios imported through Altech made in America, they are sometimes more expen¬
Marketing and sold in hobby stores are very com¬ sive than imported radios with similar features. But
petitively priced. I have used three ACOMS systems they have a reputation for excellent reliability. Ace
for years and am very pleased with them. The makes an inexpensive basic radio, the Olympic 5,
receivers have proven to be very good at rejecting that comes with ni-cad batteries but without servos.
adjacent channel interference and intermodulation. Their Silver Seven radio has a very good reputation
(We’ll discuss interference in detail later in this among experts for rejecting interference. Silver
chapter.) Seven radios are available as kits, so you can save
Airtronics imports an excellent line of radio sys¬ money and end up with a very good radio if you have
tems, recognizable by their brushed aluminum trans¬ some experience assembling electronic devices. You

Airtronics imports the excellent

Sanwa radios; they are available
with a wide range of features.
(Photo courtesy Airtronics, Inc.)

26
can even customize the transmitter, putting all the wrap it in foam rubber. Vibration is one of the chief
switches and controls right where you want them. killers of electronic equipment, and even the
JR radios are imported by Circus Hobbies in Las smoothest-running engines vibrate. Those vibrations
Vegas. They are available in some hobby stores. I are transmitted through the fuselage. If you just use
have used two JR Century VII seven-channel sys¬ double-sided foam tape to secure your receiver, it’s
tems for some time with very good results. They going to get full benefit of all that shaking. Use real
have a wide assortment of useful features. foam rubber, not the stuff that sometimes comes in
World Engines imports a series of radios at a packing crates. That foam is intended to cushion
very low price. I haven’t used any of their systems, against shocks rather than vibration, and can trans¬
but I know that they are in wide use. mit engine vibration right through to the receiver.
Several other brands are imported into the U.S., Your transmitter is a precision instrument; treat
such as Multiplex and Simprop. These are full- it as such. Don’t put it on the floor of your car or
featured, expensive expert systems. in the trunk to get bounced around on the way to
the field. Don’t leave it on a car seat in direct sun¬
RADIO SYSTEM CARE light. If you drop it, range-check your system. A little
Your radio system is just like your stereo or extra care with your tranny can save an airplane!
VCR: It requires care in handling. A radio control Lots of expert pilots buy special cases for their
system is designed to take abuse in the course of transmitters. These are similar to camera cases, and
its use, but it’ll work much better if you don’t abuse protect the transmitter in shock-resistant foam. Not
it! only is the transmitter safe from accidents, but the
When you install your receiver in the plane, trim switches don’t get moved by accident either.

JR Radios are imported by Circus Hobbies in Las Vegas. This is the Circus 4, an inexpensive basic radio system. (Photo
courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

27
This helps prevent unpleasant surprises right after this, you’ll notice a sharp reduction in the capacity
takeoff. of the pack.
Memory can be avoided by cycling your packs
BATTERIES regularly. This means discharging them to a safe
You will spend more time charging and caring level and slow-charging them to full charge again.
for your batteries than any other regular main¬ There are other good reasons for battery cycling;
tenance task. There are very good reasons for this. we’ll discuss them later in this chapter.
Flying Models magazine did a survey several years Charge Speeds and Currents. Ni-cad bat¬
ago that asked readers about the major causes of teries can accept a charge at different rates. This
crashed airplanes. Way out in first place was im¬ rate, measured in milliamps (Mooo of an amp) is de¬
properly charged batteries. More people lost their termined by the capacity of the cells, measured in
favorite airplanes because they forgot to charge the milliamp/hours. Most of the batteries we use in ra¬
night before, or figured that they could get one more dio control systems are 500 or 550 milliamp/hour
flight without recharging their receiver pack. cells. This means that they will supply a current of
Balancing Your Battery Packs. When your 500 milliamps steadily for an hour, or 1 amp (1000
radio system is new and the batteries are flat, they milliamps) for Vi hour, or 250 milliamps for two
should be charged for 24 hours before use. This hours, etc. The abbreviation for milliamps is mA,
gives the new packs a full charge to start out with, and for milliamp/hours is mAh.
and also balances the pack. Balancing refers to the Charge current is measured in amps. Charge
fact that ni-cad cells will accept and release their rates are usually described as a fraction of cell ca¬
charge at slightly different rates. So as the pack is pacity. C is the abbreviation for cell capacity. There¬
charged or used, each cell will have a little more or fore, a charge rate of C/10 would indicate a current
less charge in it than the other cells in the pack. of Vio the mAh rating of the cell. For 500 mAh cells,
As the pack approaches full discharge, it can the C/10 charge rate is 50 mA. For 1200 mAh cells
happen that one of the cells will reach the end of (sub-C size), the C/10 rate is 120 mA. Simple, huh?
its charge before the others. The other cells will be C/10 is the charge rate you’ll get out of the
pouring current through the flat cell, and this cur¬ charger that comes with the radio. It safely charges
rent will ‘‘charge” the cell in reverse. This can ruin the batteries to full capacity in 16 hours. The bat¬
the cell in short order. As a battery pack gets older, teries can stand considerable overcharge at this rate
cell reversal becomes more and more likely. When too, since there isn’t enough current flowing through
a pack finally quits, you will often find that several them to generate heat. This is why chargers that
of the cells are reversed, showing a negative volt¬ charge faster are seldom sold with the radio system;
age when you touch a voltmeter leads to the cell’s C/10 may not be fast, but it won’t destroy battery
terminals. packs.
The best way to prevent cell reversal is to slow- Sometimes we need to charge at other rates
charge the batteries with the charger that came with than C/10. There are four standard charge rates:
the radio, and be sure that you give them enough trickle charge, regular charge, quick charge, and fast
time on the charger. charge. Regular charge is the C/10 rate we’ve been
Cell Memory. Ni-cad cells are also subject to discussing.
a condition called memory. Memory can happen Trickle charging is charging at the rate of
when you fully charge your pack before each use and C/100. This is a very low charge current, and hardly
discharge it to about the same point each time you actually charges the cells at all. But it’s useful for
use it. Do this often enough and the cell might quit battery packs that are already fully charged. This
producing current at that point, even though there is because all ni-cad cells will lose their charge all
is capacity remaining. If one cell in the pack does by themselves if left alone. This self-discharging

28
means that you had better not charge your batter¬ for the day and put them on the charger at home,
ies one weekend, and go flying the next weekend or you can field charge them.
without giving them a few more hours on the To field charge, you need a system that will put
charger! a higher charge rate than the normal into your trans¬
Trickle charging at the C/100 rate puts just mitter and receiver packs. There are several
enough charge back into the cells to compensate for chargers on the market that will do this. A Leisure
their natural tendency to self-discharge. You can Electronics Digital Charger will put a charge in packs
bring a pack up to full charge, and then put it on a of from four to eight cells, of any capacity. An As¬
trickle charge to keep it peaked for a long period tro Flight charger will do the job too. The Robbe
of time—weeks, if necessary. Automax 8 will charge transmitter and receiver
Ace RC sells a charger that does just this. It’s packs, and do it automatically through a three-stage
called the Charge Master, and it can charge two charge cycle.
transmitter batteries and four receiver batteries at There are several important things to be aware
once. Once each pack is at full charge, you can of if you are using a fast charger to field charge your
switch the output for that pack over to trickle system. Never use a charger that doesn’t allow you
charge. The Charge Master was made for the week¬ to set the charge current. A constant-current
end flier who wants to keep his planes ready to go, charger such as the ones listed above will not put
and it really does the job. It’s also a very good kit more amps into your battery pack than you set it
to learn electronic assembly with. for. Too much amperage and you risk overheating
Quick charging is charging at the C rate. In and venting a cell. And with that receiver pack
other words, you’re putting the same amperage into buried in the fuselage and wrapped in foam rubber,
the cells that you will get out. To quick charge a 500 you will never notice that the cell has been damaged
mAh pack, you would charge it at 500 mA. This will without cycling the pack and seeing the dropoff in
bring the pack up to full charge in around three capacity. Monitor your charge current closely, and
hours. make sure that it doesn’t exceed three times the
Fast charging is done at a rate of 3C, three C rate. C rate is 500 milliamps Q/i) for the 500 mAh
times the rated capacity of the cells. Before trying batteries that are standard in radio systems, so you
a fast charge, you should be certain that your cells don’t want to put more than 1 Vi amps of charge
can handle it! Many smaller cells supplied with ra¬ current into your packs. A charger with a digital
dio systems can’t take the current of a fast charge. charge readout like the Leisure Digital really shines
On the other hand, most batteries larger than 550 here.
mAh capacity can handle fast charge current. You will seldom be able to get more than about
To fast charge a 500 mAh battery pack, you an amp into your transmitter pack. This is because
would set your charger at a current of 1500 mAh, you are powering the charger from a 12-volt bat¬
or 1.5 amps. This should fully charge the pack in tery, and there isn’t enough power available from
about 20 minutes. To charge a pack of 1200 mAh the battery to fast charge more than seven cells.
cells in 20 minutes, you would need to charge at a This doesn’t mean you can’t charge your transmit¬
current of 3600 mAh, or 3.6 amps. This is what fast- ter, but you won’t be able to bring it up to full
chargers for RC car battery packs do. charge. You will be able to put in enough for a cou¬
Field Fast Charging. Your radio system bat¬ ple more flights, though.
teries will seldom be set up for 3C charging. It really A digital voltmeter will help keep your system
isn’t necessary. Say you’ve been out flying all day, safe when field charging. The voltage of a battery
and have about two hours of on-time on your sys¬ pack climbs consistently when it is accepting a
tem. You check the receiver pack with an ESV, and charge. When the voltage peaks and begins to drop,
decide that it’s time to charge them. You can quit the pack is fully charged and the charge current is

29
being converted to heat. If you have a digital volt¬ damage the FFC or change the charge rate. So if
meter monitoring the pack voltage, you will spot this you get surprised by a beautiful flying day and no
voltage peak and can stop charging before anything airplanes charged, you have an answer. Put the plane
gets damaged. in the car, connect the FFC, turn it on, and drive
There are several products that will field charge to the field. When you see the LEDs go out, you
your transmitter and receiver safely and automati¬ know your system has enough charge for a few
cally. Bell Rock Industries has even developed a so¬ flights.
lar panel that charges your radio system. It works Battery Testing Equipment. There are
at a charge rate that won’t damage your system if devices on the market that will make monitoring the
it is overcharged. The idea is to leave your trans¬ condition of your batteries much easier. Some of
mitter and receiver plugged into the “Joose- them are intended to be used on the flying field, to
Booster” system while you’re not flying. It uses so¬ see how much charge you have left in your system.
lar cells to keep your batteries topped off. These are commonly called ESVs or Expanded Scale
TRC Engineering makes an interesting field fast Voltmeters. See Chapter 6 for descriptions of these
charger. It automatically selects its output voltage, and how to use them.
so will charge packs of from one to ten cells. It puts In your workshop, you can and should regularly
out plenty of current, so really isn’t designed for cells test your system’s batteries. The only way to get
smaller than 500 mAh; but for those cells and larger, a good idea of how much capacity you have left in
it really does the job. a battery is to drain it and measure the amount of
The field charger that I use the most is the Ace current you get in the process. As we’ve discussed
RC FFC. This unit is completely automatic, and before, ni-cad cells are rated in terms of their use¬
works on all standard four-cell receiver and eight¬ ful capacity. Most radio systems use batteries rated
cell transmitter packs. You plug the FFC into your at 500 milliamp-hours (mAh), meaning that they can
cigar lighter, and connect the plugs to the charging supply 500 milliamps of current for an hour. So, the¬
jacks on your system. When you switch the FFC oretically, if you put a 500 milliamp load on one of
on, it goes to a fast charge rate, indicated by lighted these packs for an hour, it should be discharged to
LEDs on the charger. It watches the voltage of both a normal level. You can measure the time it takes
the transmitter and receiver. When it hits preset to discharge and have the capacity of the pack. Bat¬
voltage levels, it switches to slow charge. It will tery testers all work on this principle.
switch over when your transmitter is about 50 per¬ Before we go further, a couple of questions
cent charged, and your receiver about 80 percent. might have occurred to you. For one, what is this
This gives you plenty of safety margin; more time ‘ 'normal level’ ’ to which a pack is discharged? Why
on the FFC at the slow charge rate will bring the not just flatten the pack right out?
packs up farther. As we discussed earlier, ni-cad batteries don’t
There are two features I particularly like about discharge in a linear fashion. They maintain a high
the FFC. For one thing, it has circuitry that detects level of voltage until they’re just about discharged,
air temperature and adjusts the voltage cutoff ac¬ and then drop abruptly. That dropoff point is the
cordingly. This helps prevent a problem that might point that’s important, since the batteries will run
happen on a sunny, hot day at the field. If your bat¬ your radio up until they hit the dropoff. So a useful
tery pack is very warm, fast charging it could build cycler will look for that point and stop timing when
up enough heat to cause damage before the voltage it sees it or before. The usual voltage cutoff level
rises far enough to trip the charger. Secondly, the is 1.1 or 1.0 volts per cell.
FFC has a regulator on the input voltage source. It’s also rather unhealthy to completely flatten
This means that the fact that your car battery goes a ni-cad cell consistently. It will reduce cell life. As
to about 14 volts when your motor is running won’t the pack discharges deeply, one or two cells may

30
go flat and be reverse-charged by the cells that are pacity than it’s rated for, test it again. Maybe it
still pumping current through the pack. And if the wasn’t fully charged. If it consistently tests low,
flattened pack is not slow-charged after the deep dis¬ don’t trust your valuable airplane to it! Something’s
charge, the cells will charge at different rates and wrong somewhere.
be out of balance. Another good use for the Digipace is to give you
The battery cycler I use the most is the Digi- an idea how much charge there is left in your bat¬
pace, made by Ace RC. In fact, I have two of them, tery pack after a day’s flying. At the end of a flying
so I can test two systems at once. The Digipace is session, hook up the Digipace and let it discharge
available in kit form, or assembled and tested. I've your packs and bring them back up to charge. Note
built mine from kits; although it’s not a kit for the the number of minutes you would have had left for
rank beginner, it’s not a difficult assembly job. that day’s flying. If it’s less than you expected, look
The Digipace is capable of testing a four-cell re¬ for some reason why your plane is soaking up more
ceiver pack and a six, eight, or twelve-cell trans¬ battery current than it ought to. Are your controls
mitter pack. It has a digital readout that displays the binding, or stalling your servos? Are your connec¬
results of either pack, depending on where a switch tors all clean and free from corrosion? An early warn¬
is set. Another switch starts the test. To use the ing of these conditions can save your plane; it has
Digipace, you connect it to one or both packs. As for me!
soon as it’s connected it functions as a standard-rate One final note about the Ace Digipace: If you’d
charger, charging the packs at the same rate as the prefer that the readout show the capacity of the pack
charger that came with the radio. Push the switch, (in mAh) rather than the discharge time (in minutes),
and the Digipace starts a clock and begins discharg¬ there's a way to modify the circuit board to do this.
ing the packs. When it senses that one of the packs Ace sells a little kit with instructions and parts to
has reached its discharge point, it stores the clock do it.
value. When the other pack reaches discharge, it
stops the clock. You can read either time on the dig¬ TROUBLESHOOTING YOUR SYSTEM
ital display. When it has the discharge time of ei¬ Batteries account for 90 percent of the prob¬
ther pack, it starts charging that pack. So you can lems that people experience with radio control sys¬
turn it on, start the cycle, and come back in about tems. A basic rule to keep in mind is to replace your
20 hours to a fully charged system that has been cy¬ ni-cad batteries every three years. No matter how
cled and tested. they are charged, stored or cycled, batteries will de¬
The Digipace reads out in minutes. Since it sub¬ teriorate over time. The chemicals inside lose their
jects the packs to the same loads they will encoun¬ potency. Changing them is cheap insurance. You can
ter in typical use, this number of minutes is the time get more information on ni-cad batteries earlier in
you can expect to use the system if you used it to this chapter, or in Chapter 1 of The Advanced Guide
its capacity. You can easily convert this number of to Radio Control Sport Flying (TAB Book #3060).
minutes to milliamp/hours by using the formula in Meanwhile, if your batteries are not your problem,
the Digipace instructions. Once you do this, you will where should you look?
have a good idea of the health of your battery packs. Your connectors are the first suspect. Most
If they consistently test out at or above their rated have gold-plated contacts to help fight off corrosion.
capacity in mAh, they’re healthy and happy. For ex¬ Inspect each of them under a magnifying glass. You
ample, I just put the radio system in my Piper Cub can clean them with a stiff wire brush; do it care¬
on the Digipace, and the receiver pack tested to 535 fully and use a small amount of rubbing alcohol. Turn
mAh; since the cells are rated at 500 mAh, I know on the system and wiggle each connector, looking
that they’re doing fine. for jittering servos. If you get an “Aha!” replace
If the Digipace shows that a pack has less ca¬ the connector and see if the problem goes away.

31
 Check your switch harness. Test the action of
the switch. It should give a solid snap. If it slides
stiffly, there's dirt and oil inside. Replace the whole
switch harness if you discover a bad switch.
Is the battery pack wrapped with plastic or PVC
tape? This tape will “sweat" and can cause corro¬
sion. Heat shrink wrapping is best; since it has no
adhesive, it doesn’t cause this problem. If you have
to make a new pack or replace cells in an old one,
use hot-melt glue to hold the cells together. You can
buy the same heat-shrink material the factory uses
to protect battery packs; RC car racers use it. Check
your hobby store.
When you cut off a suspect connector, strip the
wires a bit and inspect them. Sometimes the fine
copper wire in radio leads will corrode and turn
black. This “black wire syndrome" shows up ev¬
ery now and then, usually on the leads from the bat¬
tery pack into the switch harness. It is an indication
that the system may have been subjected to too
much moisture somewhere along the line. All the
wiring needs to be replaced. If you see blackened,
The servo is the part of an RC system that does the actual corroded wires coming out of a battery pack or a
work. The receiver tells it how much to move. A pushrod switch harness, replace the whole harness. If you
is connected to a hole in the servo output wheel. The pushrod
moves the control surface of the plane. (Photo courtesy see them coming out of a receiver, send it in for ser¬
Futaba) vicing!

For ultra-small RC models, Cannon makes these Super Micro Servos. You can almost hide one behind a quarter! (Photo
courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

32
 Sometimes a radio system will act just fine in airplane or worse. When in doubt, send it in! The
shop and ground tests, then start to go nutty when confidence is worth what you pay for it, and more.
the engine is fired up. Before flying a new machine,
or after a crash or major modification, you should SENDING A RADIO IN FOR SERVICE
range test the system (on the field, in the same spot You should return your radio for service when
as you customarily test, as described in Chapter 6) it has a problem that you can’t track down. But that
with the engine running. A friend is essential for this in itself isn’t enough. If you’re the kind of driver who
job. You can range test by yourself if the plane is waits until something goes wrong to have your car
secured in a sturdy cradle or tied down to the serviced, you know what it can cost you. A radio
ground, but it won’t be as good a test. You’re look¬ control system is just like a car, a stereo, or a VCR;
ing for the point when the servos start to jitter, and it requires periodic maintenance. This is especially
you have to be standing close to the plane to detect important after 1988, when more new frequencies
this over the noise of the engine. Never range test open up. Old, out-of-tune radios will splatter onto
the system with the engine running without firmly new channels and cause all sorts of problems. On
securing the plane! Since you’re deliberately trying the other hand, older systems that are properly
to exceed the range of the radio, you’re risking a maintained will be usable for years to come. This
runaway plane if you do this. The same applies to is another reason not to buy the cheapest radio sys¬
electric-powered planes; always range test them tem you can find!
with the motor switched off, or while someone else I make it a policy to send my radios in for ser¬
is holding them! vice at least once every three years. I do this with
If you find that your range is substantially all of them, because I don’t have any airplanes that
reduced with the motor running, look for places in I particularly care to crash. A typical service call will
the plane where two metal parts are touching each cost less than $50, and I get back a radio that has
other. Metal parts that are in occasional contact will been gone over by experts and had its electronics
create interference. The most common place for this tested. It’s the cheapest way to get a sense of secu¬
to happen is the throttle arm that connects to the rity 1 know of.
throttle servo pushrod. If the arm is metal and you When you finally decide to return a radio for ser¬
use a metal clevis, you’re asking for it. Swap it for vicing, there are a few basic rules you should fol¬
a nylon clevis. Loose muffler screws or engine bolts low. They will save time for the repairman, which
are another common cause of metal-to-metal inter¬ can save you a lot of money.
ference. Look everywhere. If you have saved the original box the radio came
If you eliminate this as a cause of interference, in, it’ll make an ideal shipping container. It can also
then there is a loose connection somewhere in your give the repairman important information about the
airborne system. Try another switch harness. specific make and model of your system. Keep the
Sometimes switches will get worn to the point where boxes.
engine vibration will cause them to open up. Check If you don’t have the original box, find one that
the connectors as described above. is plenty big enough for the whole system. Unscrew
If everything passes this fine-tooth comb inspec¬ the transmitter antenna. Remove the switch and
tion and your system still jitters when the engine servos from the plane. Don’t send in broken pieces
starts, you have a more serious problem that a tech¬ of the model, you’ll get plenty of sympathy without
nician needs to look at. It can be anything from a them. Put all parts in plastic bags. Now pack the
loose solder joint on the receiver’s printed circuit components in the box, shielded with foam “pop¬
board to a crack in the receiver crystal. A trip to corn” or wrapped in foam padding similar to the pad¬
the service center will cost you some flying time and ding you use to protect the receiver when you install
a few bucks, but skipping it might well cost you an it in the plane. It’ll be subject to the same kind of

33
abuse when the shipper gets his hands on it. No part vantages and disadvantages.
of the radio should be in contact with any part of the AM radios tend to be less expensive than FM
box. systems, and considerably less so than PCM. AM
Return the entire system: transmitter, receiver, has been in use for a lot of years. AM circuitry is
receiver battery pack, and all servos. You never tested and reliable, and there’s plenty of it.
know where in the system a problem can come FM has the advantage that a receiver can be
from . . . and if you only send in part of the system, designed to capture the signal, just like the receiver
what do you do if they can’t find the problem? I know in your car. However, if it loses capture, it can have
it’s a pain to pull all the servos out of the plane, but more of a problem than AM in regaining it. FM tech¬
if the problem turns out to be one of those servos, nology has been gaining rapidly on AM, since there
how are you going to know which one is guilty? Give were many proven foreign FM systems ready to hit
the inquiring serviceman as many clues to the mys¬ the American market. FM receivers still tend to be
tery as possible. sensitive to splatter from poorly-tuned AM trans¬
Write a note detailing the trouble you’re hav¬ mitters. Until some of the older AM systems reach
ing and the tests you have already performed. If you the end of their useful lives and get thrown out, you
can save the repairman having to redo tests you’ve should be aware of the possibility of trouble.
already done, that means a lower charge on your bill. PCM is something completely different. The re¬
Include a check to cover return postage of the ceiver incorporates a microcomputer which listens
system. Depending on the service center you work for digital signals from the matching transmitter. The
with, they may require your approval of an estimate transmitter incorporates a signature code in each
before they go ahead with the work. Make sure your frame of data it sends. If the receiver hears a signal
phone numbers—daytime and evening—are on the frame without this identifying code, it ignores the
note and in the box. While you’re at it, put your data. This means that the receiver will be unaffected
name on your transmitter somewhere. You should by interference, and the controls will stay in their
have done this when you first bought it, but we for¬ previous position. If it’s completely overwhelmed
get so often. by the foreign signal, or if the transmitter is turned
A good service center will send you a postcard off, PCM receivers can be designed to go to a de¬
when they receive your system. They’ll tell you fault 'Tail safe” mode. This means that instead of
when you can expect to hear from them. Give them going crazy, like a conventional receiver, in this cir¬
as long as they ask for; it should seldom be more cumstance, the PCM receiver moves all its servos
than a few weeks. to a preset position and stays there until it hears an¬
other signal from its transmitter.
PCM systems are expensive and more bulky
AM, FM, OR PCM? than AM or FM systems. They also have a noticea¬
Before 1981, only AM transmissions were al¬ ble delay between the control input and servo mo¬
lowed for radio control use by the Federal Commu¬ tion. It’s less than half a second, but it’s there. The
nications Commission. When AMA petitioned the receiver’s computer takes that long to evaluate the
FCC for more RC frequencies, one of the things they incoming signal. The main axis controls (elevator,
asked for was an end on restriction on the type of aileron, rudder) are updated first, so this is not a
modulation broadcast. They got it, and we have real problem in most aircraft. In fact, many pro aer¬
benefited from the introduction of new radio systems obatics fliers have gone to PCM radios. They like
with more possibilities. From this has also come a the fact that the systems don’t ever twitch, which
lot of confusion over the question: Which is best? makes for smoother flights. I have a PCM system
Guess what? There’s no easy answer. None of that I use for valuable scale models. The only time
them is the answer to all our prayers; there is no I wouldn’t use it is in a helicopter, where I like in¬
such thing as a crashproof RC system. Each has ad¬ stant control response. This is simply a matter of

34
personal preference, however; many world-class heli Now we have 21 frequencies. Worse yet from
competitors use PCM radios. an intermodulation standpoint, they’re evenly
spaced, 40 MHz apart. So when two signals from
INTERFERENCE two transmitters produce beat frequencies, they sit
The AMA Frequency Committee has been ex¬ right on two more of our new channels. This is the
tremely careful in designing a phase-in plan for the dreaded 3IM.
new frequencies. We have reached Phase Two, Disaster? Nope. The power of the beat frequen¬
starting in 1988. The Committee has been carefully cies are proportional to the distance between the two
researching the effects of the introduction of new transmitters that are producing them. So, to reduce
frequencies that happened in 1983. the 3IM beat frequencies, you separate the trans¬
When the subject of radio interference comes mitters. If the pilots on the line are standing at least
up, it seems you get hit from all sides by terms that 20 feet apart, the 3IM signals are insignificant.
only the electronics experts understand. At least, This is how it usually happens: Two pilots take
that’s the way I feel. And it’s a rare electron-pusher off and are flying around merrily. A third pilot takes
that will talk English for long enough to explain off, and he starts to notice that his system is twitchy.
what’s going on and whether or not you and I really At certain points in the sky the plane dips or the
need to give a dam about it. throttle surges. He announces that he’s having trou¬
There are several excellent books that go into ble, and the other two pilots offer advice. Sometimes
great detail on the subject of radios and interference. they’ll be standing right next to each other, each
You can get detailed information from AMA. Look looking at his plane, trying to decide why this poor
in the Reference Section at the back of this book sucker is getting his derriere kicked all over the sky!
for copies of some of the AMA’s info sheets on RC I’ve seen this happen a couple of times. I use
frequencies. For now, let’s talk about the sort of the direct approach to deal with it: I holler “Spread
interference that you might actually encounter on out!” as soon as I realize what’s happening. When
a typical Sunday flying session. the pilots move apart, control miraculously returns
If you have a good, name-brand radio system to the shaking thumbs of Pilot #3, and he lands.
that wasn’t the cheapest one around, and you have This doesn’t mean that Pilot #3 has a crummy
charged the batteries and properly installed the sys¬ radio. In all probability, when his radio was designed,
tem, you’re not likely to see any kind of interfer¬ intermodulation interference wasn’t a problem. For
ence. You ought to be aware, however, of one a very large percentage of sport fliers, intermodu¬
potential interference source, commonly known as lation may never be a problem. But as the number
third-order intermodulation, or SIM. of fliers increases along with the number of frequen¬
When two transmitters are operating at the cies, more and more of you will encounter it.
same time on different frequencies, the radio energy What Do You Do About It? You can deal with
they broadcast will interact. The two frequencies intermodulation interference simply, as described
combine to produce “beat” frequencies a certain above, by being aware of it and avoiding conditions
distance to one side or the other of each of the main that cause it. Change your flight line to have marked
signals. These products are of very low power, and positions for the pilots to stand.
never caused us trouble in the past when we only You can buy a new receiver for your radio sys¬
had six frequencies. This is because the old frequen¬ tem that has good abilities to reject this kind of in¬
cies were spaced farther apart, and the beat frequen¬ terference. The best systems I’ve found in this
cies popped up in between the frequencies that our particular feature are the ones using dual conver¬
receivers were listening for. Receivers didn’t have sion receivers.
to be designed to listen closely to one narrow part You can use a simple formula to see what com¬
of the band (they were wideband, rather than nar¬ bination of frequencies will cause 3IM. Suppose two
rowband). fliers are up, one on channel 44 and one on 42. These

35
two frequencies will beat together and produce 3IM erly with another person flying on the channel right
on two more frequencies, one above them and one next to you? Modem receivers certainly should.
below them. Which channels will the 3IM be on? Here’s how you can tell.
To find the channels that will be at risk, double Turn on your receiver and put the plane down
one frequency and subtract the other from the re¬ at one end of the 100 foot line. Go to the other end
sult: 44 times two is 88. Subtract 42 and you get of the line with the friend who has the receiver on
46, which is one of the channels which can get hit. a channel next to yours. Both of you turn on your
Now work it from the other side: 42 times 2 is 84, transmitters. Your receiver will be getting your sig¬
minus 44 gives you channel 40. So those two guys nal clearly, and your servos won’t jitter. Now put
on the flight line can interfere with channels 40 and your transmitter on the ground at the 100 foot mark.
46. Before you take off on one of these channels, Walk down the line toward your plane with your
make sure the other pilots are standing at least 15 friend, carrying the transmitter on the adjacent chan¬
feet apart to minimize the 3IM. nel. Watch for the point when your servos start to
Testing Your System for Interference Re¬ twitch and jitter.
jection. AMA Frequency Committee member You should be able to get within 30 feet of your
George Steiner has worked out some field tests you plane before the servos start to twitch. A good re¬
can use on the field to see how sensitive your sys¬ ceiver will still be solid if both of you are standing
tem is to intermodulation interference. five to ten feet away. If things get twitchy at much
To conduct George’s tests, you need your air¬ over 30 feet, beware. Your system could need
plane and transmitter, and two friends with their . re tuning.
transmitters. One friend’s transmitter must be on The second Steiner Test looks for the ability of
the same frequency as yours. The other friend’s your receiver to reject interference on the channel
transmitter must be on a channel adjacent to yours; it’s listening to. This will give you an idea of how
if you’re on channel 44, you need another transmit¬ well it’ll do when it’s in an intermodulation (3IM)
ter on channel 42 or 46. Incidentally, both of the situation like the one we described earlier.
Steiner Tests are performed with the transmitter Put your plane down on one end of the 100 foot
antennas fully extended, just as if you were flying. line, and turn on the receiver. Turn on your trans¬
You also need a field with a line 100 feet long, mitter, and put it down on the line 20 feet away from
marked in 10 foot increments. No one will mind if your plane. It should be resting on its base, not on
you do this at the flying field, if you tell them what its back, with the antenna pointing up into the air.
it’s all about! Now send your friend with the transmitter on
The first of the Steiner tests is for adjacent the same frequency as yours to the other end of the
channel rejection. Will your receiver operate prop¬ line and have him switch it on. As he walks down

Receiver Control Interferer

Transmitter

How well will your receiver reject interference from another signal on your channel? This simple field test will tell you.
You need a transmitter that broadcasts on the same channel you’re using. The closer it gets before you lose control of
your system, the better your system is at rejecting interference. (Illustration courtesy Model Aviation magazine)

36
the line toward your plane, watch for the point at fore your servos start to jump, your system is fine.
which the servos start to jitter. This will happen A good receiver will be solid when your friend and
when your receiver is no longer able to filter out sig¬ his transmitter are only 30 feet away. If things get
nals on your frequency that aren’t coming from your jumpy when he is much more than 50 feet away,
transmitter. things are not as solid as they should be. Think care¬
If your friend can get to the 50 foot mark be¬ fully about sending your system in for a checkup.

37
 Chapter 4

Trainer Airplanes and

Basic Construction Techniques

T here are many airplane kits that are de-

scribed as ‘‘trainers.’’ Most of them are fine
than the hobby store, but there’s a risk involved,
too. It’s going to take a while to get your kit.
for the purpose, but you can't be certain. Every air¬ There’s no one to call when you need help. You will
plane flies differently, and every model pilot's skills probably open the box and discover that you need
are different. If you’re armed with a little basic a fuel tank, an engine mount, pushrods. Finally, by
knowledge, you’ll be able to find a first airplane that the time you’ve paid to have the product shipped
you’ll thoroughly enjoy. to you, the mail order price doesn’t look as good
anymore.
WHERE TO GET YOUR FIRST AIRPLANE If you live in an area without a good hobby shop,
then by all means consider buying mail order. I grew
There are two ways to buy model supplies: from
up in a small town in upstate New York, and I knew
a hobby store, or through mail order. Buying from
every page of the SIG Manufacturing and Estes In¬
a hobby dealer is much the better of the two. RC
modeling is something like the hobby of photogra¬ dustries catalogs by heart. But when I went to col¬
phy; you will need a lot of help and advice to do it lege and discovered a hobby store nearby, I never
successfully. The best place to get this help is at shopped anywhere else. I got to know the people,
your hobby shop. You can open up the kit and look and learned a lot from them. My hobby really
through it. You can get any accessories you need blossomed in those years, more than it had when
right then and there. The dealer can recommend I was a loner. I’m still grateful to that store . . . and
covering, glue, and any special tools you might need. to the stores I patronize in the city where I now live.
If you have questions as you build the kit, you can
call him and get answers fast. WHAT MAKES A GOOD TRAINER KIT?
Mail order buying often offers you a lower price Your first airplane should be easy to build

38
correctly—not necessarily easy to build, although the front edge of each side and the fuselage formers
that's nice, too. But getting a plane that is easy to to the inside from the front to the back, then gluing
build straight is worth a lot. the sheets together at the tail.
Look for full-size plans that show the shape of To Aileron or Not to Aileron? There's a de¬
each part, so you can identify them easily. bate raging among RC instructors about ailerons.
The bigger the instruction book, the better. Many insist that a beginner should start out with a
Few model kits have what I consider to be adequate three-channel airplane, those channels being rudder,
instructions. Ask your hobby dealer to open the box elevator, and throttle. Such airplanes are usually doc¬
and let you look at the instructions. If you come ile, since they rely on a lot of dihedral (the angle
across a word or a procedure that you don't under¬ of upsweep of the wing tips) for turning control. Di¬
stand, ask. Don't be shy about it. . . that’s his job. hedral also helps stabilize a plane in level flight, and
For your first airplane, you should favor a model make the plane self-recovering.
with a fuselage built up from balsa sheet, rather than A self-recovering airplane will help you get out
one made of a framework of square balsa sticks. The of a situation many beginners encounter. You lose
framework fuselages are lighter and just as strong your orientation in a turn. The plane's turning
as the sheet types, but the sheet sides are much tightly, and you mistakenly move the stick to turn
easier to construct. This is because of the extra at¬ the plane even tighter in an attempt to level it out.
tention you have to pay to getting the fuselage per¬ This is called a spiral dive, for obvious reasons. Be¬
fectly straight when you are joining framework sides lieve me, it's easier to get into than it sounds!
with crossmembers. A sheet-sided fuselage will have If you get into a spiral dive with a self-correcting
the sides precut to the right length. Getting a airplane, you simply release the stick. The plane will
straight fuselage will consist of gluing the firewall to come out of the turn, still coming down, but travel-

If you only have a small flying field, the Megowcoupe from Flyline Models might appeal to you. With an .049 engine for
power, it flies very slowly. Construction might be a chore for a beginner. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

39
ing straight. You can get your orientation back, and STARTING WITH SAILPLANES
add up elevator to level it out again. If you want to start with something as easy as
Planes without ailerons are generally simpler to possible to fly, or you have to teach yourself, con¬
build, since you don’t have to hinge the ailerons, rig sider starting out with a sailplane. They fly more
the linkages, or install the aileron servo. Of course, slowly than powered planes, so they’re easier to
you don’t have an aileron servo to plug in when you stay ahead of. Since they have large wings, they’re
put the wing on the plane. And if you bought a radio easier to keep in the air, they turn more gently, and
system without servos, such as the Ace RC Olym¬ they’re more forgiving of a beginner’s tendency to
pic V, you only need to buy three servos to com¬ overcontrol. Since there’s no engine, that’s one less
plete the plane. thing for you to get frustrated with. And, generally
Why Use Ailerons? On the other hand, you speaking, they’re easy for a beginner to build.
are probably going to want to fly a plane with aile¬ Two-meter sailplanes are the most convenient
rons at some point. Rudder-only planes aren’t as size. A wing two meters long is easy to tuck into
precise as aileron ships, and they aren’t capable of the back seat of a car. The wing panels won’t be
some maneuvers that the full-house four-channel too big to build on your kitchen table, and you won’t
jobs can perform. And if your model is scale or scale¬ go broke buying covering for it.
like, a lot of dihedral angle in the wing is not aes¬ The two most popular two-meter sailplane kits
thetically pleasing. in my experience, are the Gentle Lady and the
An airplane’s rudder does not turn the plane. Olympic 650. The Gentle Lady is kitted by Carl
A plane can only turn by banking, lowering one wing. Goldberg Models. It’s a supremely friendly airplane,
Rudder-only planes turn by making use of the high very easy to build and just as easy to fly. The in¬
dihedral angle; when you add rudder, you roll the structions are illustrated at every step, and show
plane and force one wing down. A cleaner, smoother you how to cover the model and install the radio.
way to turn a model is to bank with aileron, and You can leave off the balsa nose piece of the Gentle
slowly add up elevator to pull the nose around in the Lady and put on an .049 engine if you like.
direction of the bank. Then feed in opposite aileron The Olympic 650 is kitted by Airtronics. Like
to level the wings, letting the elevator return to neu¬ other Airtronics kits, the quality is outstanding. Parts
tral as you do. It might sound tricky, but it’s a are sawn and sanded rather than die-cut, and all the
smooth, natural action. It lets you control the bank necessary hardware is included. The Oly 650 per¬
angle of the plane (with ailerons) and the diameter forms better in light air than the Gentle Lady, and
of the turn (with elevator) at all times. can be a competitive ship in the hands of an expert.
So which one should you get? You decide. If you
start out with rudder-only three-channel planes,
you’ll have to learn a new style of turning when you
try an aileron ship. On the other hand, aileron ships
will seldom level themselves out of a spiral dive.
Which one you choose for your first or second trainer
depends on what you feel comfortable with and
which kit appeals to you most.
Please remember: Don’t tackle the Mustang or
Warhawk you want to build as your first kit! You’ll
almost certainly crash it. Pick a high-wing airplane;
it’s easier to keep oriented with a high-wing plane. Sailplanes make excellent training planes, since most fly
slowly and gently. This is the Pussycat from Bob Martin RC
Pick something that flies slowly. If you meet these Models. It’s an easy kit for the first-timer to build and fly.
two criteria, you can aileron or not as you please. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

40
The Robbe Windy is really a powered sailplane. It can take off from the ground, cruise up to altitude, and glide around
at a low throttle setting. The fuselage is molded plastic, and the wing is sheeted foam. (Photo courtesy Robbe USA)

Another popular two-meter sailplane is the gin to develop an ability to “read” plans, visualiz¬
Metrick, kitted by Top Flite Models. This is a real ing the construction steps. It's often very difficult
performer, a contest-quality design. The detailed in¬ to spell out in words some construction detail that
structions make it suitable as a first model. can be shown in a drawing. Look for detail draw¬
If you like the flying characteristics of a sailplane ings of the difficult parts.
but still want a powered model, see Chapter 1 of In the course of studying the plans and laying
The Advanced Guide to Radio Control Sport Fly¬ out the parts, you'll locate the construction steps
ing (TAB Book #3060). There are several sailplane¬ that look the most difficult to you. It's useful to test-
like designs that are available for electric power; the fit the parts together without glue until you have a
most popular is the Electra kit from Carl Goldberg good idea of how they fit and where they go. It’ll
Models. Electrics are not much more trouble than build your confidence later.
sailplanes, because you won't have trouble getting
the motor started. Cutting Balsa Wood
Balsa wood is amazing stuff. It's remarkably
BASIC BUILDING TECHNIQUES strong, especially against its grain. It’s relatively soft
Before you start fitting parts together, lay them and can be cut and shaped easily. But its great vir¬
all out and identify them. Write each part's name tue as far as we’re concerned is its light weight.
on the part with a soft lead pencil. If you use a felt- Years ago, when I worked for a company that
tip pen for this, make sure you don’t mark on any manufactured model rocket kits, we bought balsa by
part that will be on the outside of the plane. Felt-tip the plank. The planks were two feet wide, a foot
ink will soak right through many finishes, even iron- thick, and eight to ten feet long. I could carry two
on coverings! on each shoulder. You can imagine what the neigh¬
Read the instructions until you have a good bors thought when we unloaded the lumber truck
grasp of them. Look at the plans as you do, and work and tossed the planks into a second-story loft door!
out each construction step in your mind. You’ll be¬ Balsa is so light because it is formed of fibers

41
held together in a honeycomb-like structure. Be¬ summed up in one word: patience. You must culti¬
cause of this, it can be crushed easily. This makes vate the patience necessary to fit each part to each
it extremely important to use sharp tools to cut other as closely as you can. Once you’re in the habit,
balsa. I have several different knives that I favor for you’ll find that fitting the parts into the structure as
different jobs. They all have replaceable blades, and perfectly as you can is one of the great pleasures
I have spares handy. The common X-Acto #11 blade, of model building.
the one that tapers to a sharp point, can be bought If you’re working with die-cut parts, be careful
in boxes of 50 in art supply stores. This is what I as you sand their edges smooth. Die-cut parts are
use for most work. Since the blades are cheap, it’s usually made with a little margin for fine sanding and
easy to have one knife handle with a new blade for smoothing. Be careful that you don’t sand them
precision work and another with an older blade for smaller than they need to be.
hacking. Parts that have to be cut to length or to shape
For precision work and very light wood, many should always be cut slightly oversized. As a friend
people use single-edged razor blades. These are of mine says, ‘ ‘You can’t cut it longer! ’ ’ Cut the part
fine, but I find them difficult to grip comfortably. and test-fit it, noting where it needs to be sanded
Model Builder magazine markets a knife called Uber to shape. Then sand it lightly with fine grit paper,
Sciver which is just as sharp as a razor blade if not no more than four or five strokes before you test-
sharper. Its handle uses a drawbar clutch that is fit the part again. If you accidentally sand the part
tightened from the rear, so it doesn’t loosen when too far, do not try to bridge the gap with glue! It
you cut around curves. The handle is hex-shaped might appear to work, but will return to haunt you
so it doesn’t roll. I love ’em for precision work. The later. Look for a place where your too-short part
compound edge of the blade is easily honed with a will fit. For example, if you’re building a framed fu¬
Peck-Polymers Sharpy tool. The only drawback that selage and one of your crossmembers comes out too
I’ve found is that Uber Sciver blades are relatively short, look toward the tail of the plane for a spot
fragile. Save them for close work, and don’t flex or that needs a shorter crossmember. Obviously, you
twist the blade. should always cut the longer parts first.
You’ll also want to have a razor saw. These If there is no place to use the too-small part,
saws have very thin blades and small teeth, and will you can build up the surface you oversanded with
cut the hardest balsa easily. I have several different a small piece of scrap wood. Make a good glue joint,
sizes in my shop. The small ones are good for close and shape the new piece to conform with the old one.
work, and the small blades are easier to keep from Then test-fit again, shaping more slowly this time.
bending. Larger blades are needed to cut through
balsa blocks or thicker strip stock. Engine Mounts
You’ll also need a good surface to cut on. You
Engines are mounted in one of two ways. The
can use your building board, but it will wear out that
engine can be bolted to hardwood rails that extend
much quicker. I have a square block of hard black
forward from the fuselage into the nose. These en¬
rubber that has been finished to a flat surface. It
gine rails are built into the structure of the fuselage
keeps small parts from slipping and protects the knife
and provide a very solid mount. But you must plan
blade when it goes through the wood. I found this
the engine you will mount before the fuselage con¬
block at a store that specializes in model railroad sup¬
struction is completed, and changing to an engine
plies; ask your hobby dealer if he has them in his
of a different size is difficult.
railroad department.
The most common method of engine mounting
is to bolt the engine to an engine mount, which is
Fitting Cut Parts bolted to the firewall. These engine mounts can be
The difference between a strong, smooth fuse¬ made from aluminum or glass-reinforced nylon. The
lage or wing and a weak, irregular one can be aluminum mounts sometimes come predrilled and

42
Great Planes Models makes a series of trainer and sport kits. The Super Sportster is an excellent trainer for a modeler
who is ready to try aerobatics. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

tapped for a particular engine. These are the best Now use a pencil to mark the positions of the en¬
kinds of mounts you can buy, but they require that gine mounting lug holes. Remove the engine. Drill
you change the whole mount if you ever decide to pilot holes through the mount arms; use a drill that
use a different engine. You will find aluminum en¬ is smaller in diameter than the screws you will at¬
gine mounts made by Tatone, J’Tec, C.B. Associ¬ tach the engine with. When you mount the engine,
ates, and SIG Manufacturing in your hobby shop. the screws will tap themselves into the nylon. It
If he doesn’t have the particular mount you need, grips the threads tightly. There’s not much chance
it can be ordered quickly. that you will strip out the holes by overtightening
Nylon engine mounts are perfectly strong and the screws unless you drilled them too large in the
durable. They usually come in widths rather than first place.
drilled for a particular engine. This is handy, since Any engine mount should be bolted through the
one mount will fit a range of different engines. firewall with bolts threaded into blind nuts. Blind nuts
They’re also considerably less expensive than the are small nuts with points around the outside that
cast aluminum mounts. imbed themselves in the wood to hold the nut in po¬
Nylon engine mounts have one other advantage sition. You should fit these mounts while you still
that I like. Instead of having to drill holes in the have access to the back of the firewall.
mount and tap them for bolts, the motor can be se¬
curely mounted with self-tapping wood screws. Po¬
sition the engine on the mount, checking to make Pushrods
sure it fits properly without spreading the arms and Pushrods connect the control surfaces of the
is in the proper position along the length of the arms. plane to the servo output arms. There are two types

43
of pushrods: rigid rods and flexible rods or cables. pushrod that you can adjust at either end by thread¬
Rigid Pushrods. Rigid pushrods are usually ing the clevises in or out.
hard balsa. Some kits include fiberglass pushrods; The most important thing to remember when
even graphite arrow shafts have been used with installing flexible rods is to secure the outer tube
great success. They are most often used for eleva¬ firmly at several points along its length. This is es¬
tors and ailerons, since there’s plenty of room for pecially important in places where the rod goes
them to stick straight inside the back of the fuse¬ around curves or comers. If the tube isn’t secure,
lage behind the radio compartment. the rod can flex into these curves and not push the
Rigid pushrods must be fitted with wires on each way it should.
end to connect to the control surfaces. These wires Outer pushrod tubing can be glued into ribs and
are usually threaded on one end, so that a clevis can bulkheads with CyA glue if it’s roughened with sand¬
be screwed on. For details of how to connect these paper first. Cut holes in the bulkheads that the outer
to the control surfaces, see the information on ra¬ tube can fit through easily. Sand the rod lightly and
dio installation below. run it through the holes. Apply medium grade CyA
The easiest way to attach a threaded rod to the at each joint.
end of a rigid pushrod starts with the bending of the If you’re going to use flexible rods in the wing,
non-threaded end of the rod at a right angle. The it’s best to plan where they will fit through the ribs
bent part of the rod should project downward no far¬ and drill them all at once. This makes sure that the
ther than the width of the rigid rod to which it will holes are properly aligned, and saves you a lot of
be fitted. Now drill a hole through the rigid rod about trouble trying to cut holes in the ribs when they’re
an inch from the end, for this bent end to stick into. held rigidly in the wing.
Cut a V-shaped notch from this hole to the end of I use flexible rods for almost all applications. The
the rod. This notch should be deep enough that the only drawback I’ve ever discovered is the fact that
wire can lay in it flush with the surface of the rod the plastic rods will expand and contract with
when the bent end is inserted into the hole. Use changes in temperature. This will sometimes show
medium-grade CyA glue to glue the bent wire in up after you bring the plane out of your cool base¬
place. Now wrap some thread around the end of the ment and leave it sitting in the sun for a few hours.
pushrod, from behind the hole to the end. Flood this Check your control surfaces before you fly, and read¬
with thin CyA glue. When it sets, the rod will be just the clevises if necessary.
firmly in place and there’ll be no chance of splitting
the rod because of the notch you cut in it. Hinges
Flexible Pushrods. Flexible rods are sold in There are a lot of different hinging methods
hobby shops in different lengths. The brand I use available. Most kits come with hinges included, but
most often is Gold-N-Rod, from Sullivan Products. few instructions on just how to deal with them. This
It’s sold in several different grades, from a thick, doesn’t mean they’re not important: they can affect
fairly stiff rod for heavy duty applications to a thin¬ the flyability of the plane and the life of the battery
ner more flexible rod for going around comers. pack and servos.
Flexible rods consist of a plastic tube and an in¬ The most important thing I’ve found in making
ner rod that slides within it. The inner rod connects good hinges is to have the parts to be hinged prop¬
to the servo arm and control surface, and does the erly shaped. Look at the plans. There will be a cross-
actual work. The outer tube supports the rod section drawing of the control surface that shows
throughout its length so it doesn’t flex when pushed. how it should be shaped. If it’s an aileron, the hinge
The inner rod is actually a tube, and it connects to will probably be inserted at the narrowest point of
the control surfaces with short lengths of threaded the surface up near the top. If it’s a mdder or ele¬
rod that are screwed into each end. Clevises are vator, the hinge goes into the center of the surface’s
then threaded onto the rods. This gives you a edge, which has been rounded. Sand the surface until

44
The new AeroStar 40 from Midwest Products is designed for the first-time flier. The instruction manual (over 100 pages
long!) takes you through every step of building and covering. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

you get it to the shape shown on the plans, no mat¬ glue, you can glue the hinge solid. There are several
ter how long it takes. It’ll pay off. simple methods to prevent the glue from getting into
Types of Hinges. The most common hinges the hinge. Some builders will warm up a little Vase¬
these days are made of nylon plastic. They come line in a dish until it becomes liquid, fold the hinge
in different shapes and sizes. The actual hinge is in half, and dip the hinge pin in the Vaseline. Others
usually a thin place in the middle of the plastic piece. use light oil, preferably in a pinpoint oiler; these are
You might not think this is very strong—but just try commonly sold for model trains. Whatever method
to rip one apart. you use, the idea is to coat the pin of the hinge with
It’s a good idea to “break in’’ these hinges by something that will keep the glue from sticking to
flexing them a few times. You can feel the differ¬ it, while not preventing the glue from making a solid
ence between a brand-new hinge and one that has bond to the rest of the hinge.
been flexed. Installing Hinges. Hinging can be an irritat¬
Pinned Hinges. Many hinges have small pins ing job. If you’re not careful you can split the wood
in them, just like a door hinge. These are very strong you’re working on, and if you don’t get the cut prop¬
and usually aren’t as stiff as the solid hinges de¬ erly centered, the hinge might bind up. But if you
scribed above. follow a few simple procedures, you’ll find that the
The only thing to be cautious of with this kind job is going easily and you wind up with a smoothly
of hinge is encountered when installing them. If working control surface.
you’re a little sloppy with the glue, especially CyA The most important task is to slot the edges

45
where the hinge will be inserted. It’s important to with little or no gap. Test-fit the pieces several times
get the slots centered in the edge, so the two pieces until you have this right. If you’ve lubricated the
will be properly aligned. Also, if one hinge is out of hinge pin, the glue won’t stick to it when you finally
line, you will often feel a distinct binding or tendency glue the hinge in.
to hang up at one point as you move the control sur¬ Several hinges have a round shaft in the part
face up and down. that fits into the slot. These “hinge points’’ are a
Carl Goldberg Models makes a little gizmo called little easier to install than flat hinges. Instead of cut¬
a Hinge Slotting Guide. It’s a D-shaped piece of plas¬ ting a slot, you make a hole by twirling a drill bit with
tic that has two little tabs on the ends of the flat side. your fingertips into the wood at the right spot. The
There’s a small point in the middle of this flat sur¬ round shaft on the hinge body has raised ridges.
face. You hold the flat surface up against the sur¬ When you squirt glue into the hole and insert the
face to be slotted, and turn it slightly so that the two hinge shaft, it makes a secure bond that doesn’t need
tabs rest on the top and bottom of the surface. Now, to be pinned.
when you move the tool along the surface, that lit¬ Once the slots or holes are properly cut and you
tle point scores a line down the precise center of have the hinges in place but not glued, work the sur¬
the surface. It isn’t very deep, but you can see it. face up and down a few times to make sure that
The next step is to lay the two surfaces to be everything is aligned properly. Now, decide how you
hinged side-by-side, aligned as you want them to be want to glue the hinges in. Have you already covered
after the hinges are installed. Mark them with a soft the surfaces? If so, go ahead and glue them in. If
lead pencil (ink can show through the paint or cover¬ the surfaces haven’t been covered yet, you should
ing) where you want to install the hinges. Check the either not glue the hinges in yet, or glue in only one
plans; they’ll usually show you the best places to side. Separating the surfaces will make covering a
put the hinges. lot easier.
What you do next depends on the type of hinges I like to use medium-grade CyA glue (Super Jet,
you’re installing. Most hinges are flat, so you’ll need Zap-a-Gap, Hot Stuff Super T, etc.) to install hinges.
to cut a slot in the surface along the line you’ve It gives you a minute to get the hinge in and prop¬
marked. Cut it a little wide so you can move the erly positioned. Many people use thin CyA (Hot
hinge from side to side before gluing it in place. This Stuff, Zap, Jet, etc.), put on the hinge joint after the
will allow you to get the hinged surfaces in proper hinge is in place. The thin CyA wicks into the wood
alignment before gluing the hinges in. and makes a bond. This is okay for small surfaces,
Using a thin-bladed knife, such as an X-Acto #11 but I prefer to be sure of getting glue into the joint
or an Uber Sciver, slip it into the surface along the between the hinge and the wood.
mark you made and work it back and forth. Now After all the hinges are glued, you should pin
work the knife into the slot a second time, making them. Pinned hinges won’t separate from the sur¬
it wide enough to slip the hinge in. You might like face without tearing out the wood they’re secured
to use a wider-bladed knife for this. The idea is to to. I push regular straight pins into the top of the
make the slot wide enough that inserting the hinge surface, through the hinge, and out the other side.
won’t crack the wood. I clip off one side of the pin flush with the surface
If your hinge has a pin, the parts that hold the (or as close to flush as I can get) with a pair of di¬
pin in the center are slightly wider than the main agonal cutters, then I push this cut end down into
body of the hinge. In order for the hinge to fit flush, the wood a little farther Now I clip off the other
you need to cut a small V-shaped slot along the outer end, and push this end into the wood too. This leaves
edges of the cut you just made. This will allow the me with a pin that is recessed into the wood at both
pinned area of the hinge to tuck all the way into the ends, so it won’t stick up and scratch things or make
wood, and the two hinged pieces will fit together a bump in the covering.

46
 D-Hinges. I’ve had very good success with a Zap-a-Gap, etc.) on the hinge piece and press it in
product called D-Hinges. They’re made by Model place on the surface.
Products Corporation, and most hobby shops carry Once all the pieces are together, disconnect the
them. For most hinging applications, they’re excel¬ surfaces by turning them at 90 degrees to each
lent. They are no harder to install than standard other. Use the strip you cut off the movable sur¬
hinges, and are by far the smoothest and least¬ face to fill in the spaces between the hinge pieces
binding hinges I’ve ever used. As an added benefit, on that surface. Since it was cut from there, it should
you can easily remove the control surface at any fit smoothly back into place by removing pieces of
time, even after the plane is built. it to fit around the hinge pieces. Lightly sand the
D-Hinges come in several sizes. You buy the strip to get the comers round, the same cross-
size that matches the thickness of the surface you’re section as the hinge pieces. Voila:—a perfectly
working with. You can’t get them smaller than Vs hinged surface.
inch, which will fit most common RC kits. Making Hinges out of Covering Material.
Each D-Hinge has two parts. One glues to the If the control surfaces are very thin (like Vie inch)
solid surface, the other to the movable surface. Both or your airplane is intended for slow flight, you can
are cast from a special plastic that can be bonded make hinges from the covering material itself while
by common CyA glues. One part is shaped like a you’re covering. I especially like Micafilm for this
D, with a lengthwise slot in the curved side. The because of its very high tear resistance, but any
other part consists of two small D-shapes with a popular covering will work just fine. Friends of mine
square bar between them. These parts fit together use this hinging method exclusively, making hinges
to form the hinge, with the bar inserted through the from MonoKote that last for the life of the plane.
lengthwise slot in the other piece. The bar is shaped I don’t recommend it for fast aerobatics or racing
so that it will only fit through the slot when the two planes, but for most sport models it will work just
pieces are 90 degrees to each other. fine.
To install D-Hinges, you first slice a square strip Suppose you’re covering an elevator and want
from the edge of the control. If the surface is Vs inch to hinge it to the stabilizer. First, cover the bottom
thick, you remove a Vs by Vs strip from it. Set it aside of the stabilizer. Now lay a sheet or strip of Vie thick
for use later. I use a Master Airscrew Balsa Strip¬ balsa or cardboard on top of the stab, with its edge
per for this step, but a metal straightedge will work. flush with the edge of the stab to be hinged to the
If the control surface is a built-up structure rather elevator. Now lay the elevator on top of this spacer
than a solid sheet, you can skip this step, but get sheet, aligning the edge to be hinged with the edges
a piece of square strip stock the same thickness as of the sheet and the stab. Pick up this sandwich and
the surface. check again that the surfaces are properly aligned.
Mark your hinge locations, and glue the hinges Now iron the covering onto these edges, and over
in position. As I said, they are made of special plas¬ the top onto what will be the bottom of the eleva¬
tic that is designed to be bonded with CyA glue. It tor. Make sure the covering is stuck to the edges
doesn’t really matter which piece is where, as long firmly and completely, with no gaps.
as you have mating pairs across from each other. Flip the elevator over so that it is even with the
I put the pairs together and glue them to the sur¬ stab, resting on your building board. There is now
faces while the whole thing is resting on a flat sur¬ a double layer of covering separating the two pieces,
face. If you accidentally glue the hinges solid, a little stuck to both, and a small ridge of covering sticking
Debonder will free them. up above this line. Remove the spacer sheet and iron
The instructions tell you to put the hinge piece a single sheet of covering material over the top sur¬
in place and put a drop of thin CyA on the joint. I faces of both stab and elevator. You might have to
prefer to put a drop of gap-filling CyA (Super Jet, run your iron over the joint between the pieces a

47
couple of times to make sure it’s smooth. If the two with a sharp lead pencil. Now you should be able
pieces move apart slightly, no matter. Voila once to use a #11 blade and a small drill bit to make the
again:—a hinge made of two sheets of covering stuck holes.
to each other, with no gaps down the length of the When you position the switch, put it where it
hinge line. won’t interfere with pushrods or servos on the in¬
The only thing that can go wrong with this side of the plane. I like to put it on the side of the
process is improper shaping of the mating surfaces. fuselage, under the wing if it’s a high-wing plane.
If they are both square so that they close against It should be in a spot where it’s easy to tell at a
each other when pushed together, the surface will glance whether or not the receiver is switched on
be able to hinge upward but not downward. For an or off. I like to put a small drop of white paint on
aileron, where the mating surface is undercut at an the “on” side of the switch faceplate to make it
angle to allow downward movement, there’s no obvious.
problem with this method. If you have an elevator You don’t have to mount the battery charging
and stab, as in the example above, it’s best to shape jack on the outside of the plane, but it comes in
the leading edge of the elevator to a triangular cross- handy. With the jack permanently mounted on the
section with the point touching the center of the trail¬ outside, you won’t have to remove the wing to check
ing edge of the stab. This is easier to stick the cover¬ the batteries on the field. It also makes it easier to
ing to and will give plenty of movement in both hook up your charger, if you hang your airplanes
directions. Simply rounding the leading edge of the from the basement ceiling, as I do.
elevator may not be adequate. Most radio systems come with a charging jack
that includes a faceplate similar to the one that came
with the receiver switch. Check your radio’s instruc¬
INSTALLING THE RADIO SYSTEM tions for specifics. Ace RC sells some jacks for this
You’ve usually finished and covered the plane purpose that have faceplates. Ernst Mfg. sells a jack
before you begin to install the radio system. Check holder that fits Futaba radio systems. Some radio
the instructions; this might vary with your kit. But manufacturers have special switch harnesses that
the engine will be in place, and all the control sur¬ you can buy with these features. The neatest one
faces hinged and with the control horns in position. I’ve seen is from Multiplex; the switch and charge
jack are in a single unit. A sliding door covers the
Switch Harness jack, and the whole thing fits nearly flush with the
surface of the fuselage. Nifty!
The first thing to consider is where to locate
the receiver on-off switch and charging jack. The
rule here is to put the switch in a convenient place Receiver Battery
on the opposite side of the fuselage from the en¬ Your receiver battery is often the heaviest thing
gine’s exhaust pipe. Exhaust oil can quickly get into in the airplane, after the engine. This comes in handy
a switch and cause it to fail—not to mention work¬ when you want to add nose weight. Why give a piece
ing its way in under the covering around the switch of lead a free ride, when you can have nose weight
hole! that earns its keep?
I prefer to use a switch that comes with a In any case, check your plane’s center of gravity
faceplate of some sort, so you can cut the hole before installing the receiver battery. It should bal¬
slightly oversize and it’ll cover it up. Most switches ance near the CG shown on the plans. If it balances
that come with radio systems are like this. You can forward of this location, you don’t need nose weight
use the faceplate to draw lines to mark where to cut and you should install the receiver pack close to the
the hole. Position it at an appropriate spot, and mark CG. If it balances at or behind the location shown
through the switch hole and the two screw holes on the plans, install the pack as far forward as you

48
can get it. This might mean putting it under the fuel servos need to go.
tank.
Most radio systems come with a battery pack Servo Mounting
in a ‘ ‘square” configuration, i.e., two pairs of cells There are two common ways to mount servos
side by side. This is fine for most airplanes. But if in the fuselage. You can use a plastic servo tray.
you need to tuck the pack underneath the fuel tank, These are often included with the radio system.
there might not be enough room. A ‘‘flat pack” is They have holes that fit the servos and some sort
the answer. Flat packs have all four cells side by of setup to hold them in place. The tray itself is
side. Most radio manufacturers offer flat packs as mounted to two hardwood rails glued into the fu¬
an option. Ace RC sells receiver packs in every im¬ selage.
aginable shape, either shrink-wrapped or in plastic The other method is to mount the servos to the
boxes. You just attach connectors for your particu¬ rails directly without using a tray. This is a little trick¬
lar system, and you’re on your way. ier than using the tray, since the rails have to be
Wherever the receiver pack is installed, it needs properly positioned to allow the servos to fit in the
to be wrapped in foam rubber. Make sure this is right positions.
vibration-absorbing foam, rather than the popcorn- Whichever method you use, be sure the mount¬
type stuff used in packing crates. The idea is to iso¬ ing rails are firmly glued to the fuselage sides. My
late the electronics from the engine vibration. True, usual practice is to glue them in with regular-grade
the battery pack is a lot less susceptible to vibra¬ CyA glue, a drop on the end of each rail. Then I fin¬
tion than other electronic equipment, such as the re¬ ish rigging the pushrods until I’m certain that I won’t
ceiver. But that doesn’t mean you can just stick it need to move the servos. If they do have to be
to the fuselage bottom with double-sided tape! This moved, I use a debonding agent (Z-7 Debonder, Jet
is another lesson I learned the hard way, when my De-Solv, etc.) to free the rails and reposition them.
Gee Bee Model D flew itself into the ground. The When I’m sure it’s in the right spot, I cut eight small
vibration had loosened a wire that was soldered to triangular gussets of balsa wood and glue them to
the battery pack, which cleverly turned off the re¬ the top and bottom of each rail where it joins the
ceiver just as I was banking onto final approach. I’ve fuselage side.
wrapped my batteries in foam rubber ever since. When you mount the servos to the tray or the
rail, you have a chance to isolate them from engine
Pushrod Installation vibration. This is very important, since it will help
the servos last a lot longer. You do this by mount¬
If you didn’t do it before, now’s the time to fig¬
ing the servos with rubber grommets in the screw
ure out where your pushrods go. If you used flexi¬
holes. All servos come with mounting grommets.
ble pushrods, you built them in as you finished the
Check your radio system instructions for details on
rear of the fuselage, supporting the outer tubes at
using them; but be certain to use them!
every bulkhead. If your kit calls for wooden push-
rods, make them up now. Cut them to the length
shown on the plans, and install the threaded rods Servo Reversing and Control Movement
longer than they will need to be. It’s a lot easier to As you install your servos, turn on the system
make them shorter than longer! and check which way the servo rotates. You need
Put the pushrods into the fuselage and connect to be certain that you connect the pushrod to the
them to the control surfaces. You may have to do side of the servo output arm that will move the con¬
a little rebending of the threaded rods to get the in¬ trol surface in the correct direction: left when the
stallation just right. The pushrods should not seat stick is moved left, etc. Suppose you’re installing
against each other at any point along their length. the elevator servo. Connect the elevator pushrod
Once you have these in, you can see where your to one side of the servo output arm, and lay the

49
servo in between the mounting rails. Now switch If you need to snake the throttle pushrod through
on the system and pull the elevator stick back. Does some tight turns, Standale Aircraft Co. makes a
the elevator go up? If it goes down, you will have product called EZ-Throttle. It’s a length of thin ny¬
to connect the pushrod to the other side of the servo lon tubing with a solid nylon pushrod in the middle.
output arm. You can literally tie this stuff in a knot and it’ll work
If your radio system has servo reversing fine.
switches in the transmitter, you don’t have to bother One thing that can make throttle connections
with this. Install the servos in the most convenient much easier is the fuel tank itself. Some tanks come
locations, and connect the pushrods. Turn on the with slots molded into the sides so that a pushrod
radio and pull the elevator stick back. If the eleva¬ can pass by. Sullivan sells a line of tanks that are
tor goes down instead of up, move the servo revers¬ made from flexible plastic. These are very easy to
ing switch for the elevator from one side to the install and make installing the throttle pushrod
other. Check all other controls for proper direction simple.
of servo movement.
Aileron Linkages
Throttle Linkage There are two basic types of aileron linkages.
You will need to route the throttle pushrod past The first uses pushrods that go through the wing
the fuel tank in most airplanes. It helps to have a structure to a control horn on the aileron. Since the
very flexible pushrod to do this. In most cases, flex¬ aileron servo is mounted in the middle of the wing,
ible rods like Sullivan Gold-N-Rods will work fine. this means the pushrod has to negotiate a 90-degree

Ailerons are usually set up with torque rods for control. These rods run along the center of the wing trailing edge, and
project straight down into the fuselage. The aileron servo sits in a pocket in the underside of the wing, and connects to
the torque rods with adjustable pushrods. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

50
angle to get to the aileron horn. If you use a flexible With all wires connected, ascertain the best spot
pushrod for this, you can use a single piece of for mounting the receiver. They are usually placed
pushrod in a curve. If you are using solid pushrods, forward of the servo rails on the floor of the fuse¬
you’ll need some sort of 90-degree bellcrank buried lage. Wrap the receiver in a layer of foam rubber,
in the wing. If the plans call for the bellcrank setup, loosely held in place with a rubber band or a length
bellcranks will be included with the kit hardware. of masking tape. This is critical; without this pro¬
The other standard aileron linkage is the torque tection from engine vibration, the best receivers can
rod. A rod is buried in the trailing edge of the wing fail. Now push the receiver down into its spot, and
from the aileron inboard side to the wing center sec¬ hold it in place by packing more rubber in around
tion. This rod turns freely in a tube. The assembly it. Unless your plane will go through a lot of violent
is in a straight line with the leading edge of the aile¬ aerobatics, it usually isn’t necessary to do more to
ron. On the aileron end, a 90-degree hook bent into keep the receiver from moving around.
the end of the rod projects into a hole in the leading
edge of the aileron. On the other end, another 90 Antenna
degree bend projects downward from the underside
Last but not least, we’re going to look for the
of the wing. This projection is threaded, and con¬
proper place to route the receiver antenna. It may
nectors are screwed down onto the threads. The
seem obvious, but do remember to check that you
aileron servo rests in the center of the wing, upside
have done something with the antenna! The first
down. Connecting rods go from the servo arms to
time I bought an ACOMS FM four-channel system,
the torque rods on either side.
three years ago, I installed it in my old faithful Aer-
Of the two, I prefer the torque rod linkage. It’s
onca Champ. I put three flights on it before I real¬
much easier to install, since you flip the wing over
ized that I had never un-coiled the receiver antenna,
and all of the linkages are right there. There’s no
and it was still resting on top of the receiver under
need for a control horn on the outside of the aileron
the wing! Now, that’s an excellent test of a radio
surface, since the rod projects into a hole in the aile¬
system . . . but I don’t recommend it! I was very
ron. And it’s much easier to adjust; you can increase
lucky. A receiver antenna that is wrapped back on
the aileron travel by screwing the connectors far¬
itself in any way reduces the receiver sensitivity
ther down the projecting threaded ends of the torque
drastically.
rods. Finally, it’s easier to get at and replace the
When you route the antenna, avoid all other
servo if necessary.
electrical wiring in the plane. Impulses going along
If you want this kind of linkage and your plane
those wires can cause interference to the signals be¬
isn’t set up for it, you have to plan it before you build
ing received by the antenna. I like to lead my an¬
the wing. The torque rod tube rests in a slot in the
tennas up the side of the fuselage and out behind
wing trailing edge, and must be parallel with the aile¬
the wing, or back through a tube mounted in the fu¬
ron hinge line. Look at the wing plans and figure out
selage. Short lengths of NyRod or Gold-N-Rod tub¬
where this needs to go.
ing work well for this; I usually use pieces of model
rocket launch lugs, since they cut and glue very
Receiver easily.
Once the servos are all mounted, hook them up Some kits, especially scale models, will provide
to the receiver. Your aileron servo won’t be con¬ you with a length of plastic tubing to house the re¬
nected directly to the receiver; instead, a short ex¬ ceiver antenna. This tubing is sometimes a very tight
tension cord (almost always supplied with your radio fit, and stuffing the antenna through it can be a very
system) will plug into the aileron channel plug on the frustrating job! I generally replace this tubing with
receiver. This allows you to install the receiver and a length of Gold-N-Rod outer tubing. If you’re stuck
not have to take it out and reinstall it every time with using the smaller diameter tubing, give it a shot
you put the wing on the plane. of some spray lubricant, such as WD-40, inside its

51
entire length. Alternatively, dab a little silicon lube construction is beyond the ability of a typical begin¬
on the receiver antenna as you stuff it through. ner. The prices of the kits are reasonable. They are
Once the antenna is outside the fuselage, it very flyable planes with no bad habits. Most impor¬
needs to be secured somewhere. If you’ve led it out tant, both kits have beautifully drawn plans and out¬
behind the wing, the usual procedure is to attach it standing instruction manuals that are illustrated with
to the top of the vertical fin. This puts it out in the photos at each step.
open air and holds it straight, where it is most sen¬ When you open up an Eagle box, you’ll be
sitive to your transmitter signals. You can use presented with carefully sorted stacks of wood. The
several different methods to attach the antenna to windshield and windows are molded from clear plas¬
the fin, as long as you don’t tie the antenna back tic. The wire landing gear are shaped for you, and
on itself in any kind of knot. This will reduce sensi¬ there’s a bunch of hardware. You need to buy an
tivity. engine, a fuel tank, an engine mount, and a radio
I use a very simple method to attach the re¬ system before you start.
ceiver antenna to the fin. I drill two very small holes The Eaglet kit mounts the engine on a plywood
in the fin, and thread the antenna through them. It’s breakaway plate, which is bolted to hardwood en¬
all it needs to hold it straight. The holes should be gine bearers that run into the fuselage. This is a very
spaced about half an inch apart. good way of mounting an engine, but it’s more work
than using a standard plastic or aluminum engine
SOME POPULAR TRAINERS REVIEWED mount. I found it very easy to modify the Eaglet for
Goldberg Eaglet and Eagle. Since the in¬ mounting the engine directly to the firewall; just use
troduction of the Eaglet 50 and Eagle 63 by Carl a razor saw to slice off the engine bearers flush with
Goldberg Models, they’ve become the most popu¬ the firewall. This would allow you to use the K&B
lar trainer planes on the market. There are several .20 Sportster engine, which comes with its own en¬
reasons for the great success of these planes. They gine mount designed to bolt to the firewall. Use the
are very well engineered, meaning that none of the same bolts and blind nuts that are included in the

The Eagle is a larger version of the Carl Goldberg Eaglet. Designed for .40 engines, it can be built with or without ailerons.
Hundreds of new pilots have learned with an Eagle. (Photo courtesy Carl Goldberg Models)

52
Eaglet kit for bolting the ply breakaway plate to the to practice with while you’re building your Eagle;
bearers to bolt the mount in place through the it’ll take away some of the urgency to get the Eagle
firewall. in the air and help you avoid crashing it.
In exactly the same manner, the new K&B .45 In fact, there are several products that are in¬
Sportster engine would be an excellent choice for tended just for this purpose. One such is the Dura-
the Eagle. The engine puts out more than enough Plane, an ugly duckling of a trainer plane that is just
power, and its engine mount will fit easily against about crash-proof. The Dura-Plane doesn’t fly as
the Eagle’s firewall. Both K&B Sportster engines well as an Eagle, a Kadet, or a Headmaster, but it
are clean, simple, and friendly to beginners. When flies well, and it will come out of the accidents that
you add in their prices, which are considerably bet¬ all beginners have and still be flyable. I look on ARF
ter than most imported engines of the same size, planes like the Dura-Plane as kind of a sparring part¬
there’s really no better choice. ner; it’s a plane you can beat up on while you’re get¬
I recommend building the Eaglet and Eagle in ting ready to take on the planes you’re building.
the four-channel versions. It isn’t complicated, SIG Kadet. The classic trainer plane for many
thanks to the instructions. You’ve almost certainly years has been the SIG Kadet. This little beauty is
bought a four-channel radio anyway, since three- available in two versions: with ailerons, or without.
channel radios are not any cheaper than four-channel Both are fine-flying airplanes with a wide range of
sets. If you want to simplify the Eaglet, build it with¬ different engines. Over more years than I can
out ailerons; it flies very well in this mode. But the remember, the Kadet has been the T-38 of RC
ailerons add a dimension of control that you’ll enjoy. trainers.
While the Eaglet and Eagle are designed to be Like all SIG kits, the Kadet has excellent wood
built and flown by beginners, this doesn’t mean and full-size plans. The instructions contain lots of
they’re as easy to build as an almost-ready-to-fly good advice from the SIG Factory Fliers. Building
model. These kits are intended to teach, and they a Kadet will teach you all of the basic techniques for
do that job very well; building and flying one will give building from plans and working with balsa wood.
you all the basic knowledge you need to progress The Kadet’s flying characteristics are friendly
in the hobby. You might like to buy an ARF plane and predictable. It handles well on the ground, and

The SIG Kadet has been a standard trainer plane for many, many years. It’s still one of the best. Solid and stable in flight,
the kit teaches basic building techniques. (Photo courtesy SIG Manufacturing)

53
since it requires a touch of up elevator to get into ing gear wire near the soldering iron, not to the tip
the air, you can practice short hops and fast taxis of the iron. This makes sure that there's enough
with it easily. heat to allow the liquid solder to wick completely
Last year SIG came out with a giant-sized through the wires. I suggest giving the completed
Kadet, the Kadet Senior. In terms of its flying landing gear a quick shot of black RustOleum or simi¬
characteristics, the Kadet Senior is one of the nicest lar spray paint.
flying planes I’ve ever seen. It has a huge amount The die-cut parts in these kits are very good,
of wing for its weight, so it flies slowly and gently. with no crushing evident around the cut lines. You
You can tool it slowly around the sky, getting should be aware that many pieces are very similar.
smoother and smoother as you gain experience. Any There are marks on the die-cut sheets near each
inexpensive .40 engine will be more than adequate. part that identify the part. You should either punch
A four-stroke, such as the Saito .45, is perfect. out the parts only as you need them, or write the
Landings are gentle, giving you plenty of time to part number on each piece with a soft lead pencil.
think of what you're doing. I've never flown a plane One nice feature about the way the wing is built
that was better for practicing approaches and land¬ is that you build the center section first. This allows
ings. As the Kadet Senior passes overhead, I un¬ you to pin it down flat and attach the two outer sec¬
derstand why some of my friends at SIG refer to tions at the correct dihedral angle. I found this eas¬
the Kadet Senior as “the balsa overcast;'' it blots ier than the usual method of pinning one panel flat
out the sun! and propping the other up at the tip.
I understand that the SIG folks have been told The fuselage box is built from quarter-inch
that the Kadet Senior is just too big to fit in some square balsa and spruce. I recommend the use of
cars, so they have a ‘ ‘Kadet Seniorita'' on the draw¬ a thin-bladed razor saw to get these cuts precisely
ing boards. It'll preserve the great flying characteris¬ right. A miter box is very helpful to make the cut
tics of the Senior, but be more convenient to tote ends perfect; you can buy razor saws in sets with
around. a small miter box.
Top Flite Elder. If boxy-looking trainer planes Hooking up the controls is simple, since the rear
just don’t appeal to you, but an open-cockpit pre- of the fuselage is open. Control pushrods are
WWI plane turns you on, you can learn to fly on an provided in the kit. Lightweight wheels, such as the
Elder from Top Flite Models. There are Elder kits Williams Brothers Vintage wheels, are recommend¬
in two different sizes, one for .20 engines and one ed. The Elders are three-channel taildraggers, which
for .40s. They’re both dreamy fliers with all kinds really simplifies the radio installation.
of charm, on the ground and in the the air. Flying is a delight. There’s plenty of rudder for
Although I suspect it wasn't really intended to adequate ground handling, even without a steer¬
be a trainer, I can heartily recommend either Elder able tail skid. You should practice your takeoff runs
as an excellent first-time kit. The instructions are at first, since you’ll have to add some rudder as you
very good, and the plan is clear and simple. There’s increase the throttle to keep it straight. The Elder
plenty of wing on this plane, so you'll have to tape takes off quickly and climbs out well. It also settles
the two plan sections together before you start. in very nicely when the engine is cut to idle, so you
The landing gear requires soldering in a couple don’t have to set up a long approach.
of places. This is an easy process as long as the in¬ Peck-Polymers Prairie Bird. Peck-Poly¬
structions are followed. Wrap the landing gear pieces mers is famous for their lovely little rubber-powered
to be soldered tightly with about four inches of soft scale model kits. They also produce free-flight kits
copper wire. Now dab a solder flux like Super Safe for contest and sport flying. One of their classic FF
on the wire. Finally, heat the wire with your sol¬ jobs is the Prairie Bird, a little squarish cabin plane
dering iron or gun until the flux sizzles before you with its wingtips cranked up. It’s intended for be¬
touch the solder to it. Touch the solder to the land¬ ginners, since the structure is square and simple.

54
 The Prairie Bird from Peck-Polymers is a lightweight, gentle-flying airplane. It flies so slowly that anyone can fly it with
confidence. The fuselage is made of die-cut balsa sheet, and the formers fit in slots in the side. Gas or electric motors
can be used; parts are included for either. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

I’ve built several of them, and helped youngsters eludes two firewalls; you select the one for the
build more. They always fly until we break the rub¬ power you want to use. The plans show all details
ber bands! of the difference in construction between the gas and
About a year ago, Bob Peck decided that if the electric version. I found the instructions to be lack¬
Prairie Bird was a good free-flight model, it’d make ing in some details, and a beginner will have to study
a good RC ship. He scaled it up to three times the the plans carefully. If you have already built models,
size of the original, and turned one classic into two. you’ll have no problems at all.
The RC Prairie Bird is one of the friendliest planes I installed a PAW .049 Diesel in my Prairie Bird,
Pve ever had the pleasure of flying. Actually, you just to be different. It was less power than the kit
don’t really fly the PB; you just make an occasional calls for. On the first flight, which was only the sec¬
suggestion. ond time the little PAW had been run, I had no trou¬
The Prairie Bird kit is lovely. As with all Peck ble hand-launching the plane, but it was distinctly
kits, the wood is selected by hand, and inspected underpowered. Still, the PB caught a light thermal
by people who are accustomed to picking good wood and spiraled up to a good altitude, then cruised
for free-flight ships. This is among the finest wood around happily when the engine quit. I refueled it,
I’ve seen in a kit box. The fuselage sides are die- leaned the engine out a little more, and launched
cut and slotted; assembling the fuselage box is a mat¬ again. This time we got right up to altitude and were
ter of fitting the tabs in the sides of the bulkheads doing wide, lazy circles in no time at all.
into the correct slots in the fuselage. The first thing I’m going to put a PAW .09 in the Prairie Bird
you should do is mark each piece with a soft lead soon. The .049 flies it very well, but it takes full
pencil. Illustrations on the first page of the instruc¬ throttle through the whole flight. The PAW throt¬
tions show you where every part is on each die-cut tles beautifully, so it’s going in a smaller plane where
sheet. it can show its stuff.
You can build the Prairie Bird for an 05-size elec¬ Coverite Black Baron Trainer. Another
tric motor or an .09 to .15 gas motor. The kit in- trainer kit that doesn’t look like a flying box is the
r

55
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The Prairie Bird wing structure is conventional. Die-cut ribs are glued over bottom spars and sheeting, then the trailing
edge and top spar are attached. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

Black Baron Special Trainer from Coverite. This for attaching this kind of molded plastic to the
classy-looking ship is designed for four channels, so wooden fuselage. The plastic is sandable, so the joint
flying takes a bit more skill than a three-channel can be made to almost disappear.
floater. You can build the BB Special as a taildrag- The engine is covered with a neat plastic cowl;
ger or with tricycle gear. A very well-written in¬ you cut away sections of the front of the cowl to clear
struction manual spells everything out well, including the exhaust of whatever engine you install. A .40
covering and finishing. A rank beginner can put the two-stroke engine is recommended; since the plane
BB Special together with little or no help and show comes out to about 4 Vi pounds, that’s adequate
up at the field with a fine-flying plane. power. A .45 or .46 four-stroke would also be an
The wood quality is very good, with fine die¬ excellent choice for power.
cutting. All the plastic pieces are trimmed for you The wing panels are joined by a long dihedral
except the covering of the wing center section, brace made from V% plywood. This prevents mis¬
which is very simple. The fuselage is a crutch struc¬ alignment and makes for a very strong wing.
ture with sheet sides drawn together at the rear. The Black Baron Special flies with no surprises.
You really have to work at it to get it wrong. A plastic I enjoy taildraggers, but you may want to build the
piece fits over the entire rear of the fuselage box, optional nosewheel. One of the nicest flying charac¬
all the way out to the tail. CyA glue works very well teristics of the BB Special is the way it flies at low

56
The Black Baron Trainer from Coverite is a sleek-looking machine that is really easy to build. The fuselage top is a plastic
piece that fits over the wooden fuselage sides. The BB Trainer can be built for taiidragger or tricycle landing gear. (Photo
courtesy Coverite)

airspeeds. The ailerons remain effective right up to The Air Scout is a three-channel plane, with
the point of a stall. Approaches can be made nose- plenty of dihedral in the wing. A .20-.25 two-stroke
high with plenty of control. engine is plenty of power. I installed a Saito .30 four-
Ace Air Scout. The Ace Air Scout has been stroke, a delightful engine that I’d had on several
around for a lot of years, but never achieved the fol¬ other planes. It was a happy marriage. The Saito
lowing it deserves. I really don’t know why; it’s a pulled the Air Scout smartly off the grass on take¬
delightful plane. It’s easy to assemble, durable, and off, and flew it very well at half throttle. The Air
good looking. Why have so few of us noticed it? Scout is small enough to hand-launch very easily.
The Air Scout kit comes with a very nice set After three years, two close encounters with
of instructions, but no full-size plan. Instead, there’s trees, one fast taxi into the side of a car, and several
a half-size assembly drawing. There’s really no need cartwheel landings, the Air Scout is still helping peo¬
for a big plan, since the die-cut parts assemble so ple leam to fly at my field. I can hand the plane to
well. The fuselage is mostly die-cut light ply, which just about anyone with confidence. I expect a few
cuts very cleanly. The pieces slot together and are more years of service from this perky plane—after
self-jigging; it’s easy to get them straight. which, I’ll probably build another one!
I particularly like the wing attachment system
on the Air Scout. Instead of using rubber bands,
you’re given two nylon bolts and flanged nylon nuts. ARF: ALMOST READY TO FLY
The nuts glue into holes in two hardwood pieces Almost Ready to Fly (ARF) planes are often a
mounted inside the fuselage under the rear of the good way to start flying RC. They are easy for an
wing. The bolts go down through holes in the wing, inexperienced builder to put together. They come
and thread into these nuts—neat and simple! out straight and flyable if you follow the instructions.
Usually, when using nylon bolts, you have to thread And they let you get right into flying, while you’re
the holes in the wing hold-down blocks. This sys¬ improving your building skills on your second
tem is much easier. airplane.

57
 Many almost-ready-to-fly planes come built
and covered, needing only to be assembled.
The E-Z kits are available from Hobby Shack;
about four hours of work will put them in the
air. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

On the negative side, ARF planes are more ex¬ is no real definition of ‘ ‘ready to fly. ’ ’ Some kits that
pensive than kits. They do a lot of the building for are called ARFs can be built by a beginner in hours;
you, and labor is expensive. ARF kits are often heav¬ others will take an expert builder a week.
ier than a kit plane of the same size, so they require Your hobby dealer can save you a lot of money
bigger engines and fly faster. Sometimes they can here. He knows his products, and will steer you
be hard to repair. You might find yourself having to right. After all, he wants you for a steady customer
replace parts instead of fixing them. Finally, there . . . that won’t happen if he gives you bad advice!

The Super Box Fly planes from Hobby Shack come with a flashy color pattern painted on. All you have to do is join the
wings, attach the tail, install the engine and radio, and you’re ready. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

58
John Elliott of Cox Hobbies shows off their newest RC trainer, the PT-19. It comes virtually ready to go, with an .049 en¬
gine installed. Put in a two-channel radio, rubber band the wing on, and fly! (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

I’ve built and flown many ARF kits. There are spend about three hours epoxying the tail on the
more introduced all the time, so I can’t hope to give plane, putting on the self-adhesive decals, and fit¬
you a complete list. I’ll try to give an overview, ting the receiver, battery, and servos into the
though, so you’ll recognize the types of ARFs and pockets molded inside the fuselage. The Trainer
know what to expect. Hawk is a docile plane that will get off the ground
MRC Foam Planes. MRC has three ARF air¬ fast and then fly very slowly at half throttle. It’s also
planes. All are molded from thick foam, and come a rugged little devil. I’ve seen them strained through
with the appropriate Enya engine and tank already trees, broken in half, and spiraled straight in, and
installed, the pushrods in place, and the steerable all were flying again as soon as the epoxy set. The
nose wheel connected. This is a real time- and sweat- Enya engine is a real beauty, and will far outlive the
saver. I find the foam construction excellent, be¬ airplane; when you finally get tired of the Hawk, the
cause when you crash and break it, you get big engine would go beautifully in a Goldberg Eaglet 50
pieces that are easy to epoxy back together. or similar small trainer.
The Trainer Hawk is a trainer plane intended The MRC Skyhawk is a semi-scale Cessna Sky-
for the beginner. It uses three channels for control: hawk molded entirely out of foam. It’s big! I flew
rudder, elevator and throttle. The nose wheel is one of the first ones that was produced, and after
steerable, so ground handling is very good. An Enya the people at MRC read my report on the plane they
.15 engine comes installed in the fuselage. You will started affectionately referring to the Skyhawk as

59
MRC’s al!-foam Trainer Hawk is a very popular beginner plane, li comes with an Enya .15 engine already installed. The
radio receiver, battery and servos fit into molded pockets inside the fuselage. It’s a tough little plane that performs well.
(Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

“Fat Albert” The fuselage looks as if you could It's a low-wing airplane, which means that it isn't
store a cold six-pack in it. You won't have any trou¬ quite as stable as the other two; but it's still per¬
ble getting your hands inside to install the radio! fectly fly able by a beginner. I recommend going
You will spend a little more time building the ahead and installing the ailerons.
Skyhawk than you would on the Trainer Hawk de¬ MRC also sells a couple of electric-powered
scribed above. The hard work is done: The engine foam airplanes. While they are excellent planes, I
is installed, and the steerable nosegear and pushrods don’t really recommend them as your first plane.
for the tail surfaces are rigged. The wing comes in They are not as easy to fly as the gas-powered
two panels that have to be joined, and the servo that models, and will not fly as long. You want long flights
controls the ailerons has to be installed. The aile¬ while you're learning, to help you build your ex¬
ron pushrods are in place, and all the control sur¬ perience (and confidence!).
faces are hinged. RPM. You'll find several ready-to-fly airplanes
The Skyhawk's Enya .35 engine seems awfully by RPM in your local hobby shop. They are excel¬
small in the nose of that big, boxy fuselage, but it lent, with good construction, adequate instructions,
has all the power you need. It's fitted with an over¬ and very good flying ability. I’ve built two, the
size prop. It’s important to break in the engine by electric-powered Snark 5T and the Cherokee. Both
running it on the ground, as described in the instruc¬ went together very quickly—one evening for the
tions. This gives you a chance to get familiar with Snark and two for the Cherokee.
the engine as well as getting it tuned up to give you The Cherokee wing is joined by a main spar
the maximum power output. laminated from a piece of balsa and a piece of ply,
Flying the Skyhawk is a delight. It lumbers hap¬ and a rear brace of ply. The dowel that holds the
pily around the sky, with smooth, slow responses front of the wing in place goes into a precut rib piece
to all controls. I've never seen a better aileron that you glue to the front of one wing half; 30-minute
trainer. epoxy is supplied with the kit, so you have plenty
MRC’s Cherokee is a foam plane like the of time to get this right.
Trainer Hawk and Cessna, but ailerons are optional. The only thing I found even slightly difficult
The Cherokee’s construction is very similar to the about attaching the wing came when it was time to
others, and won't take any longer to put together. drill it for the hold-down bolts. The mounting blocks

60
There aren’t many parts to the MRC Trainer Hawk. All it takes to assemble it is some epoxy and a few hours of time.
(Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

are already mounted in the fuselage, and blind nuts mounting lugs on the engine you’ll use. To mount
are mounted in the holes. When you put on the wing, an engine, you attach a mounting pad to each en¬
you cover those holes. You have to drill through the gine mounting lug. The mounting pad is a thin strip
wing and hit them. I drew light guide lines on the of steel with two elongated holes in the ends. These
back of the fuselage and on the wing to give me the holes will allow you to bolt the mounting pad, with
approximate location. Then I poked a T-pin through the engine attached, to the arms of the engine
where I thought the hole was. I hit ’em both on the mount. The mount is wide to accommodate .60-.80
second try, and had no problem drilling through with size four-stroke engines, so there are two sets of
Ace Handrills. The kit includes rubber O-rings to slip mounting pads: a narrow set for four-strokes, and
over the bolts to keep them in place in the wing—a a wide set for two-strokes.
thoughtful touch. The tail surfaces are already built. They mount
The Cherokee includes a large fuel tank that fits with epoxy; first the stabilizer, then the vertical fin,
into holes in the formers behind the firewall. then the fairing that covers the rear of the fuselage.
Brackets for the nosewheel are molded into the alu¬ After cutting slots in the fairing to clear the rudder
minum motor mount, which comes mounted on the pushrod, the rudder hinges are epoxied in place.
firewall. You just slip the nose gear into the brackets There’s plenty of room inside the fuselage for
and secure it with collars. The arms of the engine easy radio installation. A plywood servo tray fits
mount are cut away on top to the thickness of the most standard servos and epoxies in place between

61
two fuselage formers. The pushrods are already coming closer to the concept of ready-to-fly than just
made and fit easily into the fuselage. The control about anything else I’ve seen. All you have to do
horns that bolt to the rudder and elevator have cop¬ is join the wing halves, bolt on the landing gear and
per tubes that sheath the bolts where they go muffler, glue the tail on and connect the pushrods,
through the surfaces, so you can’t crush the sur¬ put batteries in the radio system, and go.
face by overtightening the bolts. There are two Challengers in the Polk ARF line,
The Cherokee is lively with a four-stroke .60. one with a .25 engine installed, and one with a .40.
I installed an Enya, and the performance was all I Other Polk ARFs include the Satellite 40, a .40 size
could wish. It flies inverted with slight forward pres¬ high-wing trainer; the Sharp 45, a sport pattern air¬
sure on the elevator stick. I don’t consider the Cher¬ plane; and the Swan, a neat little glider.
okee gentle enough for a first airplane, but it’ll be The Polk ARFs that include engines come with
a fine second model or proficiency plane for practic¬ Blue Bird engines, made in Taiwan. These are nice
ing your aerobatics. little engines—not spectacular performers, but
Polk’s Hobbies. Polk’s Model Craft Hobbies friendly. I value ease of handling above power out¬
is producing several ready-to-fly airplane kits. They put in this kind of plane. I’ve run their .25 and I like
are all of built-up construction rather than solid foam, it; it broke in quickly and has been easy to start.
and are very well built and quite lightweight. Like many engines that come with RTF airplanes,
I had a look at one of Polk’s RTFs, the Chal¬ the engine will probably outlive the plane.
lenger 25, at a recent trade show. It’s a con¬ Lanier. Lanier RC has been cranking out a
ventional-looking trainer plane. The eye-opening unique line of RTF kits for a lot of years. These are
part of the kit isn’t the plane itself, it’s what else tough, strong, durable planes made from plastic and
is in the box: an engine installed in the fuselage, and foam. A typical Lanier fuselage has a wood skele¬
a complete four-channel radio system with receiver ton with two plastic halves glued to it; the wings are
and servos installed where they belong. Now, that’s foam, skinned with high-impact plastic sheet. This

Lanier RC makes a large line of almost-ready-to-fly models that are hot performers. The fuselage is molded plastic, formed
over a hardwood crutch. The wings are foam, sheeted with plastic. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

62
is a good way to produce airplanes. Buying a Lanier RTF. The color pattern is outstanding; it’s applied
plane saves you from having to do any major con¬ at the factory as part of the skinning going over the
struction. balsa skeleton. It’s a big plane, intended for .90 two-
These kits are available in a wide range, suit¬ stroke or 1.20 four-stroke engines. This is not a
able for different skill levels. If you’re a beginner, trainer plane, however; it flies like the prototype,
look for flat-bottom airfoils and three channels of con¬ and needs a skilled hand at the controls.
trol, like the Pinto, Sky Scooter, or Cessna. Inter¬ Dura Craft. A brand new product appeared on
mediate trainers have symmetrical airfoils and the RTF trainer scene this year. It’s called the Dura-
ailerons, like the Comet and Transit. For ex¬ Plane, and the name sums it up well. It’s not de¬
perienced fliers, Lanier offers several hot Sport Aer¬ signed to win any beauty contests; while it may not
obatics planes like the P-51, Caprice, and Jester. be the ugliest plane I’ve ever seen, it’s definitely
There’s even a biplane, the Rebel, with sport aero¬ in the top five. The beauty of the Dura-Plane shows
batics capability. You can even order them in differ¬ up when you try to destroy it. This is as close to
ent colors. an indestructible airplane as I’ve ever seen.
Lanier kits do involve a good deal of work to The Dura-Plane was created by an RC flier who
assemble—more than most other RTF airplanes. remembered the frustration he felt after his first
You’ll need some hardware: a fuel tank and tubing, crash. A beginner puts a lot of work into his first
engine mounting bolts, hinges, control horns, and plane, when everything is new to him. Even if he
wheels. The motor mounts to hardwood rails in the builds it straight and has expert help in learning to
engine compartment. You can use machine screws fly, that plane is going to crash sooner or later. The
to attach the engine, or bolts threaded into blind experience can be devastating, but crashing is part
nuts; I have been perfectly happy with machine of learning and you can’t avoid it. So why not pro¬
screws, which are a lot easier to install. The servos vide a beginner with a plane that, when it crashes,
mount on hardwood rails, which glue to the crutch can be quickly and easily rebuilt? It doesn’t have to
sides. There’s plenty of room in all of the Lanier be his pride and joy; it just has to be something for
kits to put in any kind of radio. Wing halves are joined him to do his crashing on while he learns.
with epoxy and plywood joiners; the dihedral angle The Dura-Plane consists of a rectangular plas¬
is preset and impossible to get wrong. Sheets of the tic box, open on the ends. An aluminum channel bolts
same plastic that is laminated over the wing fit over into the bottom of the box and sticks out one end.
the wing joints. The tail surfaces, which are made of V^-inch balsa,
Indy RC. Indy RC imports the MK line of bolt to the far end of the channel. The channel is
ready-to-fly model kits. These are also available from just wide enough to take a standard servo; you jam
World Engines, and are sold extensively in hobby the three servos into it, the throttle servo in front.
shops at the same prices (or slightly better) than you Flexible pushrods for the elevator and rudder are
can buy them through mail order. MK kits are very clipped to the channel. The servos fit into the end
well constructed and quite easy to put together. of the channel inside the plastic box. Right ahead of
Indy also imports their own line of RTF kits. the servos, you install your receiver battery,
These are made by Lion Models and are very simi¬ wrapped in foam. The firewall bolts to the front end
lar to the MK and Polk kits. There is quite a range of the box; a hole in it allows the throttle pushrod
of these kits, from sport models to aerobatic jobs. to come through. The engine bolts to the firewall,
A standout is their Laser, done up in Bud Light rega¬ and stays right out in the open where you can work
lia, as flown by full-scale aerobatics pilot Leo on it. The aluminum landing gear is bolted to the bot¬
Loudenslager. It’s a real stormer in the hands of a tom of the box with nylon bolts. The wing is foam
good pilot, with a .90 four-stroke or .60 two-stroke and is held in place with rubber bands that go around
engine. hooks in the sides of the box.
Indy’s Christen Eagle is another remarkable It’s hard to imagine anything simpler than the

63
Chip Smith holds a DuraPiane, a new trainer kit. The DuraPlane is tough enough to take the hardest crashes. It isn’t
unbreakable, but everything on it is quickly and inexpensively replaceable.

Dura-Plane. Everything is easy to reach for adjust¬ hardware stores.

ment and repair. If you need to work on the radio, The engine is exposed, right up there in the
you disconnect the throttle pushrod and unbolt the front. In a crash, you’ll probably break a prop. In
aluminum channel from the bottom of the box; the a bad crash, you could break off the needle valve
whole business comes out the back. The receiver or muffler. In a really bad crash, the engine mount
is wrapped in foam and jammed in the rear of the will snap. Doing serious damage to the engine is un¬
box, out of harm’s way. likely.
In a crash, what’s going to break? The plastic The Dura-Plane folks recommend the K&B .20
box won’t crack unless it’s a really cold day. The Sportster engine. It’s a beautiful engine, as friendly
aluminum channel won’t bend, and if the tail surfaces as any I’ve ever played with; it’s easy to break in
should get broken, they’re easily fixed or replaced. and adjust. For the crasher, its true beauty will come
If the foam wing breaks, a little five-minute epoxy from the fact that it’s made in the U.S. Parts are
will have it back together. If the landing gear takes plentiful and cheap. If you snap off the needle valve,
a really hard landing, the nylon bolts break away and a whole new carburetor is only a few bucks. Like¬
you have to reattach the gear with two new ones. wise the muffler stack. The neat little backplate en¬
They’re a standard size sold in hobby shops and gine mount that comes with the K&B .20 is less than

64
$5 to replace. And if you somehow manage to ner should have no difficulty putting it together, and
“land” straight down on a slab of granite, you can it’s very easy to fly. When you realize that it is ex¬
go to just about any hobby shop and buy a whole tending the lifespans of prettier all-wood airplanes,
new engine for less than $40. the tough, ugly little Dura-Plane looks better all the
I’m really impressed with this kit. Any begin¬ time.

65
 Chapter 5

Covering and Finishing

T here are many methods of covering and fin-

ishing your model. Which one you select de¬
Coverite. Coverite makes several covering
products. Super Coverite is a polyester fabric with
pends on the model and on your personal prefer¬ an iron-on adhesive. Since it’s woven, it stretches
ence. As you try different finishing techniques, you’ll and shrinks around comers and curves very easily.
develop your own routines and methods for getting It’s very lightweight and tough. Permagloss
the best finish. Before long you’ll find what works Coverite is cloth with several coats of paint applied.
best for you. It looks like the doped fabric that used to be used
to cover full-size airplanes. For models of “ragwing”
planes, there’s nothing better. Black Baron Film is
IRON-ON COVERINGS a plastic film that’s very stretchable. The adhesive
Most sport modelers use a one-step iron-on activates at low temperatures, so Black Baron Film
covering. These are inexpensive and convenient, is very good for bare foam. Finally, Micafilm is a
and they give a tough finish with minimal effort. unique covering material that has no adhesive on ei¬
Several brands are available with slightly different ther side. You paint the adhesive onto the structure.
characteristics for different situations. Micafilm is very tough, and adds a great deal of tor¬
MonoKote. The first of these to be introduced sional strength to an open structure.
was MonoKote. MonoKote is a plastic film avail¬ Other films. Several companies have in¬
able in a wide range of colors. It’s very easy to work troduced other brands of covering film over the last
with. MonoKote has become the standard method few years. I haven’t tried them all, and so can’t make
for covering planes. In fact, even though specific recommendations. I’ve heard very good
‘ ‘MonoKote” is a registered trademark, you’ll hear things about ColorTex from Carl Goldberg Models,
people using it as a verb: “I MonoKoted my wing and one of my friends was very impressed by Gold¬
yesterday.” berg’s new Ultrakote. SIG’s Supercoat film has been

66
getting good reviews. Try a few of these and find tell you the best iron temperature for the adhesive
your own favorites. to form a solid bond with the airplane surface. If you
set your iron too cool, the adhesive may stick, but
Applying Iron-On Coverings it will never get the really solid bond it needs to keep
fuel and oil from creeping in under the edges. If your
It may sound obvious, but the most important
iron is set too hot, then the covering can begin to
rule I’ve discovered for using iron-on coverings is:
shrink and pull away from the surface before the
Read the instructions! I’ve heard many modelers
adhesive has cooled enough to grab properly. It’s
griping about one covering or another that didn’t go
amazing how many of my friends have reported hav¬
on the way they expected. It always turns out that
ing all kinds of grief with a certain covering, then
they’ve always used one brand of covering and got¬
gone back and checked the iron temperature and
ten accustomed to it. They try another brand, us¬
found the reason!
ing the same methods as with their traditional
A thermometer also is an essential piece of
covering, and wonder why it doesn’t work right! It’s
equipment. An ordinary meat thermometer will work
an easy trap to fall into.
well enough, but the temperature probe won’t rest
Why read the instructions? True, many of the
on the iron shoe easily. I use a Pocket Thermome¬
basic techniques are the same no matter what brand
ter sold by Coverite. Its coil rests right on the shoe,
you’re using. This is especially true with films that
and you have an accurate temperature reading in un¬
have a wide range of working temperature, such as
der a minute. I’ve also seen people use the oven
MonoKote and Black Baron Film. But most films
thermometers that you stick on the oven wall; just
have a very specific temperature where they go on
remove the metal case to expose the thermometer
the easiest and work the best.
element, and rest it on the iron shoe.

Working Temperature of the Covering

Working temperature is important for two rea¬ The Iron
sons: adhesive grab and shrink. The instructions will As for the iron itself, I recommend buying a seal-

A sealing iron is an essential tool if you plan to cover your model with an iron-on film. These have adjustable temperatures
for different films. Keep the iron shoe clean and free of scratches. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

67
 old faithful sandpaper. You used coarse sandpaper
to shape the parts and smooth the joints between
parts; now grab some fine paper for the real work!
See Chapter 2, Your Workshop, for a discus¬
sion of different sanding methods and tools. A sand¬
ing block is essential for open frameworks and
flat-sheeted surfaces. In fact, you should either have
several sanding blocks with different grades of sand¬
paper, or a tool such as the Wedge Lock sanding
block that allows you to slip sanding belts on and off
the block. For curved surfaces, you need a flexible
pad. I’ve experimented with sponge-type sanding
tools which consist of a fairly flexible sanding pad
that resembles a cellulose sponge laminated with
grit. They work quite well for larger jobs with coarse
or medium grit, and are useful for spots you can’t
reach with a sanding block.
For smoothing and finishing, I prefer a strip of
sandpaper folded into thirds. I cut a new sheet of
sandpaper into three strips of equal width. Then I
fold it over on itself twice. When one surface wears
thin, turn the pad over. Then refold it when neces¬
sary to expose the third surface. This gives you a
Before you start to cover, turn on your iron and check the grit surface for your fingers, which keeps the pad
temperature. This thermometer is sold by Coverite for this from slipping as you work.
purpose. Check the instructions of the covering film to see
what temperature is recommended. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt) You’ll sometimes run into problems at the joints
where two pieces of wood have been glued together.
ing iron specifically designed for model covering. You The glue is harder than the surrounding wood, and
can get away with using a small travel iron, but the when you sand it, you remove wood on either side
model iron will be much more convenient, especially of the glue faster than you remove the glue. Some
for getting into tight comers. Top Flite sells an ex¬ of the traditional glues such as Ambroid and Tite-
cellent iron. It has a replaceable Teflon-coated shoe, bond don’t have this problem, which is why lots of
which means you don’t have to buy a whole new iron people still use them. But the modem cyanoacry¬
when the old one gets scratched up. Top Flite also late (CyA) glues can give you fits when you’re try¬
sells a tool called a Trim Iron, which looks like a sol¬ ing to smooth things out. This is most noticeable
dering iron with a tiny triangular shoe at the tip. This with surfaces that are sheeted or planked with thin
is the greatest for sticking down hard-to-reach spots, balsa.
such as underneath the stabilizer or around a I’ve found a solution that works very well. You
pushrod exit. need a wet-or-dry grade of sandpaper, and one of
the super glue solvents such as Z-7 Debonder or Jet
Surface Preparation De-Solv. Nitromethane-based debonders don’t work
Any covering method works best if the surface as well for this, since they evaporate too quickly.
is properly prepared. This is especially important Moisten your sanding pad with a squirt of debonder,
with an iron-on covering, which is held tight to the and go to work on the ridge of glue. A few strokes
surface and is too thin to hide imperfections. should smooth it right out. This should be the last
The most important factor in any finish is good step in smoothing the sheeted surface, since the

68
 ridges won’t show until you’ve worked over the sur¬ it’s summer, this is a very good excuse to turn on
rounding wood. your air conditioner.
Use a sanding block to fine-sand all open struc¬ The next step is to get all the dust from sand¬
ture, such as the tops of wing ribs and the sides of ing off the surface. Many modelers like to use a
the fuselage. Look for ridges and blobs of glue at painter’s tack rag for this. The tack rag is a cloth
joints in the open structure, and wet-sand with de¬ that has been impregnated with a slightly sticky
bonder to smooth them out. They’ll show up later chemical. Wiping the surface with the tack rag picks
if you don’t deal with them now! I’ve discovered up the dust. When the rag isn’t tacky any more, you
lumps of glue that actually poked a hole in the cover¬ throw it out and get a new one.
ing when I tried to iron it down. The bottom of the I prefer to use a small vacuum cleaner. I in¬
wing is a good place to find these, since glue will herited our old cannister vac when my wife bought
run down the joints and set against the wax paper a new one, and it does the job beautifully. It lives
on your building board. under the workbench, with the hose in a large hook
So now you’ve got a smooth structure, with no at the comer of the bench where it’s out of the way.
lumps and ridges. Don’t heat up the iron yet! You I use the small long-bristle brush on the end of the
could proceed to iron down a film covering at this hose. A thorough vacuuming will leave the structure
point, and it would look okay, but it wouldn’t be at¬ as dust-free as a tack rag would. The crevice attach¬
tached as well as it could be. Sooner or later it’ll ment is handy for getting dust and shavings out of
start to bubble or come up around the edges. A lit¬ comers, too.
tle extra care at this point will pay off in the long run. If I’m going to use an iron-on covering, I like
All wood absorbs moisture. Balsa wood is more to use Balsarite as the last step before ironing the
spongelike than most, since it’s composed of a covering down. Balsarite seals the surface, which
lattice-like structure. You need to get some of this will keep the air that’s still trapped inside the wood
moisture out of the wood before you seal it with your from coming up and causing bubbles. It also helps
covering. the adhesive on the covering grab much faster. I use
The best way I’ve found is to poke the wood Balsarite no matter what brand of covering I’m ap¬
full of pinholes. You don’t need to go all the way plying to the structure. In fact, the only time I don’t
through, just enough to make holes in the surface. use it is when the surface is going to be painted.
I know that this is going to make your beautiful Once the Balsarite is painted on, the covering
smooth surface look like it has a rash, but trust me can be applied, reheated, lifted, and reapplied several
a little longer! times without needing more Balsarite. This is even
You can fabricate a tool to make this surface true with Micafilm, which has no adhesive of its own
ventilation easier by driving pins through a small but sticks only where you’ve put Balsarite.
block of hard balsa until they come out the other Balsarite takes about 15 minutes to dry in nor¬
side, then securing the pins with thin super glue. mal temperature and humidity. When it’s dry, you
Or you can save yourself some time and effort and may notice that your beautiful smooth surface isn’t
buy a tool called a Prep Tacker. Craft-Air makes it, quite so smooth any more. Don’t worry about it.
and it costs less than $10. It consists of a thick strip The heat of the iron will melt the surface of the Bal¬
of curved plastic with holes molded in. You push the sarite and smooth it down.
included map tacks through the holes so the points
come out the other side. Then you slip the plastic
strip into a sturdy molded handle that secures the Basic Covering Technique
map tacks in place. It looks like a Medieval torture Now, at last, you’re ready to do some cover¬
device, but it does a great job. ing. You’ll be dealing with two different surfaces as
After thoroughly ventilating the structure, I like you work: open structure, such as wings and open
to leave it overnight to let the moisture escape. If fuselage sides; and solid surfaces, such as sheet fu-

69
Micafilm doesn’t have adhesive on it. You adhere it to the framework by painting Balsarite on the surface first. This means
the Micafilm sticks only where you want it to. You also save weight, since there’s no adhesive between the ribs. (Photo
by Jennifer Pratt)

selage sides. The methods used to cover these are under the edges of the wing panel, where they won’t
completely different from one another, since we re¬ be seen.
quire different things from the covering material for My favorite technique for covering wings and
each type of surface. On an open framework, we other open frameworks comes from Henry Haffke,
want good adhesion around the edges of the struc¬ well-known builder of scale Gee Bee models. Henry
ture, then an even shrink rate to bring the covering works for Coverite, so he might be accused of favor¬
up tight between the ribs. On the solid sheet sur¬ ing their covering products, but he’s used just about
face, we need as little shrinking as possible to avoid everything on the market at one time or another in
pulling away from the surface as the covering cools the course of a long and successful scale building
and trapping air bubbles which show up later. career.
Henry begins by cutting a piece of covering ma¬
terial that will overlap the edges of the structure to
Covering Open Frameworks
be covered by at least lA inch all around.
You should cover the bottom of a wing panel With his iron set at the right temperature for
first, so you can curl the edges of the top covering the adhesive to activate, but not so high as to cause

70
Plastic films come with a backing sheet to protect the adhesive. Measure and cut the covering to size before you peel
this backing sheet away. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

the material to shrink, Henry tacks down one cor¬ way, the full shrinking ability of the material is there
ner of the material at the wingtip. Then he tacks if you need it.
down the comer diagonally opposite, pulling the Henry works slowly, pressing his iron down
covering a bit so that it’s smooth. He repeats this with a rolling motion and lifting it, rather than rub¬
process with the other two comers. Sometimes it’s bing it along the surface of the covering. This gives
necessary to take up one of the comers to pull wrin¬ you a much better bond, and keeps you from
kles out of the material. It’s all right to leave some scratching the covering if you have a rough spot on
small wrinkles in, but you should work out as many your iron shoe.
as you can now rather then depending on the cover¬
ing to shrink them all out. Covering Solid Surfaces
With all four comers secured, Henry works his When you cover a solid surface, such as a solid
way down one side of the structure, maintaining a fuselage side or a sheeted wing, the main problem
little pull to keep it smooth. Then he moves to the is to get complete adhesion evenly across the en¬
opposite side. Now that there’s a tightly-adhered tire surface. The shrinking ability of the covering is
side to pull against, Henry really works out most of not helpful here. The temperature of your iron is
the wrinkles at this point by pulling the material as crucial. If it’s too cool, the adhesive won’t get a
hard as necessary. Working along the other two chance to grab properly. If the iron is too hot, the
edges in the same way results in a smooth surface covering will shrink and can pull completely away
without even beginning to shrink the material. This from the surface before the adhesive has cooled

71
To cover a panel of open framework, start with the corners. Stick each corner down, keeping the covering as smooth
as possible. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

Once the leading edge is attached, do the trailing edge, pulling out wrinkles as you go. When the trailing edge is down,
do the sides. Then you can run the iron over the middle, shrinking out any wrinkles that got in. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

72
Finally, using a gentle rolling motion with the iron, stick down the trimmed edge of the film. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

down enough to grab. Check the instructions for the Once you’ve performed this check, start to
film you are using, and use a thermometer to get work outward from your center spot. Rest the iron
the iron temperature as close as you can to what on the covering, pressing gently and turning it
they recommend. slightly. Don’t press too hard, or you run the risk
I like to cover the top and bottom of a fuselage of scratching the surface with your iron. A cloth pad
first. This way the seams are underneath and on top on your iron is helpful; you can even cover the shoe
of the plane when the sides are covered, where with a thin cotton sock. You’ll probably have to turn
they’re less noticeable. up the temperature if you do this; measure the tem¬
I cover solid surfaces with a technique that is perature from the surface of the cloth pad.
the opposite of the one described above for open Once you reach an edge, work the covering
structures: I work from the center out. After cut¬ around the edge with light pressure. Make sure you
ting a piece of covering that will overlap the surface do it smoothly, starting from the center of the edge
by at least lA inch all around, I position it and tack and sealing it completely. If the edge is curved, such
a spot in the center. Then I check to make sure the as a wing saddle, you will have to cut small vertical
whole piece is in the position I want it. I learned this slits in the covering to help it conform to the curve.
one the hard way—by winding up short on one side Adhere the covering completely over the edge and
a few times! down the other side.

73
When covering fuselages, cover the top and bottom, then the sides. This puts the seams on the underside and the top
when you overlap the side pieces. They’re less noticeable there. This is Black Baron Film, which conceals seams very
well. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

Corners and Curves of the covering. Sometimes some of the pigment will
One of the most difficult parts to cover is the come out with it and stick to the iron shoe, usually
wingtip, since it is usually a compound curve and the coming off as you start to seal down another color
covering has to stretch in one place and shrink in of covering. So check the iron shoe regularly as you
another. Turn your iron up slightly to the tempera¬ work and keep it clean. Coverite sells a product
ture recommended for shrinking the covering you’re called Ironex for this. I keep a cloth pad moist with
working with. Working from the leading edge of the Ironex handy as I work. It’s simple to just occasion¬
wing, grasp the covering material and pull it down. ally wipe the iron shoe on the cloth when it needs
Roll your iron shoe over the part that looks the it. The Ironex also works great for cleaning up little
smoothest when you pull it. Work slowly from the streaks of adhesive or pigment that can ooze out
front to the back, exerting steady downward pres¬ around the edges and seams of the covering. It’ll
sure on the material. Remember to roll your iron; take the streaks right up without loosening the edge
don’t rub with it. Do a small piece at a time, and of the covering.
it will shrink or stretch smoothly. You should have I mentioned before that occasionally it’s a good
no wrinkles in the wingtip by the time you finish. idea to use a thin cloth pad between the iron and
the covering. A piece of cotton or muslin works fine
Cleaning the Iron for this, and can be washed or tossed out when it
Irons tend to get gummy after a little use, since gets dirty. A thin cotton sock can do the same job,
some adhesive will ooze out from under the edge and has the advantage of staying with the iron as

74
To work the film around corners, hold the end firmly and roll the iron around the corner. The heated film will stretch with¬
out much pressure. Slit the film at the corners and work it down flat. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

you move it. Buy a child-size sock and use rubber have any problems with wrinkles, and the finish
bands around the handle (not the shoe!) of the iron doesn't sag or bubble. And with the proper tech¬
to hold it in place. nique, you can often make a painted finish come out
I've used a product called a Hot Sock that I lighter than an iron-on covering.
bought at a trade show one year. It's a little cotton There are two types of paints used for models,
bag with a drawstring. It fits around the base of the and they are differentiated by the way they harden.
iron, and the drawstring holds it in place. Top Flite, Familiar enamels and dopes harden by evaporation
the MonoKote people, sell the Hot Sock; your local of the solvent mixed into the paints. Epoxy paints
hobby shop will almost certainly have them. With harden by chemical action; you mix a hardener with
a Hot Sock on your iron, you can't possibly scratch the paint to make this happen.
the covering material, and color that bleeds onto the Recently a series of spray epoxy paints have
iron won’t smear around. come onto the market from different manufacturers.
These paints require no mixing, but retain some of
PAINTING the harder surface of the mixed epoxy paints. They
still dry by evaporation, however.
If you can't find a color of iron-on covering that
you want, you might prefer to paint your model.
Many expert builders prefer paint for several rea¬ Paint Brands
sons. You can match colors precisely. You don’t Whatever brand of paint you use, you're con-

75
cemed with compatibility. Will it go over the sur¬
face you’re painting without attacking it? Read the
instructions carefully. If you’re still not certain, the
only sure way to find out is to test it.
When I’m finishing a surface, I like to do a piece
of scrap wood the same way as the model. This gives
me a piece to test compatibility. I sand it, seal it,
and finish it at the same time I do the model. This
isn’t necessary if you’re doing the entire model in
an iron-on covering, but if you’re using any kind of
paint, it can be a lifesaver.
K&B was the first company to make two-part
epoxy paints really popular in the hobby industry.
They have a wide range of colors. You can change
the characteristics of the paint by using different
K&B hardeners. There are special hardeners for Skybrite is a new paint product from sig Manufacturing. It’s
gloss and matte finishes, and one specifically for available in cans for brushing or spraying, in a wide range
of colors. (Photo courtesy sig Manufacturing)
brushing. K&B Clear makes an excellent adhesive
for fiberglassing.
Perfect Paints are made by Chevron and are problem applying them over each other, it’s your
sold extensively in hobby shops. They have a very own fault.
wide range of colors and publish reams of technical SIG has produced the most popular brand of
reports showing you how to mix their paints to dope for many years. Their Supercoat dopes are
match various military paint schemes. easily thinned and applied. SIG dopes are available
Hobbypoxy paints are very popular. They’re with low-shrink compounds mixed in. They also have
easy to apply and very tough; Hobbypoxy paints nitrate-based dope available, which many people pre¬
were developed for full-size boats, which are harder fer as an undercoat.
on their finishes than our planes! Hobbypoxy makes SIG offered the Skybrite painting system a few
filling putty, Fast Fill grain filler for bare wood, and years ago, and it has been very well received.
several grades of epoxy glue. All of these products Skybrite paint is available in spray cans or regular
are compatible with each other, so if you have a cans for brushing. I’ve had very good success with
their spray primer, which covers well and sands very
well.
Coverite came out with epoxy paint in spray
cans a few years ago. Black Baron Epoxy Paint is
now available in cans for brushing as well. One very
nice thing about Black Baron paint is that colors are
available to match Coverite’s iron-on coverings. This
is a big help when you’re trying to paint a plastic
cowl to match the rest of the fuselage!

Thinner
Any paint that doesn’t come out of a spray can
Hobbypoxy Epoxy Enamel is a two-part paint system; you will go on easier if it’s thinned. Thinning helps the
mix equal parts of Part A and Part B. The resultant paint
sets chemically. This gives you a very tough finish. (Photo pigment spread more easily. Thinned paint is much
courtesy Model Retailer magazine) less likely to be lumpy when it dries. You will also

76
find that two thin coats of paint are lighter than one
heavier coat.
If you're using a sprayer or an airbrush, you will
probably have to thin 50-50—one part paint to one
part thinner. Check the instructions for the paint
you’re using. You should be aware that overthinned
paint can be subject to a problem call solvent trap¬
ping. This happens when the outer layer of paint
dries too fast for the solvent to escape from the paint
underneath. Make sure your undercoat and primer
are completely dry before you paint, and use thin
coats.

Painting Conditions
Any kind of paint will give you trouble if you ap¬
ply it when the work area is colder than about 70
degrees, or if the humidity is high. Basements are
generally poor places to paint for this reason (not
to mention the poor ventilation). Paint in your yard Model Magic Filler comes in small tubs. It’s the best thing
I’ve found for covering imperfections and making repairs.
on a sunny day. If this is impossible, you can some¬ It thins with water, dries in half an hour, and sands the same
times get away with using a heat lamp to help the as balsa. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)
paint cure, but be very careful. Too much heat can
ruin the finish rapidly. Once you’ve got your filler coats on, vacuum
the surface to clear it of dust. Now vacuum your
Surface Preparation work surface and your clothes, and vacuum the sur¬
face again. Get it dust-free . . .it’s worth the effort.
Just as with iron-on coverings, preparing the
surface is the most crucial step in painting. Bare
wood should be sanded, with all nicks and seams Applying Paint
filled in. A filler, such as HobbyPoxy Fast Fill, should Follow the instructions for the paint you’re us¬
be brushed on and sanded two or three times. The ing to thin it for brushing or spraying, whichever
key to a good surface isn’t how much filler you put you’re planning to do. If you’re using a two-part
on, but how much you sand off. Don’t spare the paint, I recommend using a graduated cup for mix¬
sandpaper! ing. K&B sells these, and most hobby shops carry
If you’ve covered the model with fiberglass them. They make precise measuring a snap. Mix the
cloth, silkspan, Super Coverite, or a similar fabric, parts carefully and thoroughly, and let the paint stand
be careful not to sand through the fabric. You want for five or ten minutes after mixing to let the chem¬
to fill in the weave, that’s all. icals blend thoroughly.
By the way, it’s not a good idea to sand over You should use light camel-hair brushes for ap¬
open structure that has been covered, such as wings plying model paints. I like to use wide brushes, since
or stick fuselages. When you sand, the covering will rebrushing most paints doesn’t help them. Flow the
give slightly under the pressure of the sandpaper. paint on smoothly. Don’t overbrush the areas that
The sandpaper will quickly cut through the cover¬ you’ve applied it to; let it smooth out by itself.
ing where it touches ribs or stringers. Cover open Spray painting will almost always give you a bet¬
structures with a covering that doesn’t require fill¬ ter finish than brushing. If you’re using a sprayer
ing or finishing to accept paint, such as MonoKote or airbrush, practice on something to make sure you
or Pre-Primed Micafilm. have enough pressure to do the job right. Shoot on

77
a light mist coat first. Don’t stop the spray gun or If I’m using dope, I leave the masking tape in
can before you finish the pass over the surface; over¬ place until the dope is dry. With other paints, I take
spray both ends. After your light coat is on, go back the tape up soon as I’m finished applying it. This
over it, laying down a heavier coat. It should be wet allows the edge of the paint that’s left to flatten it¬
enough to flow out and cover the surface, but not self out, and gives me a chance to remove any spots
so heavy as to sag or run. where the paint has crept under the tape.
Holding the spray can or gun at a distance helps If you want a really sharp edge between color
you put on much smoother coats. You should be at areas, use striping tape that matches one color or
least two feet away from the surface that’s getting the other. This is a handy trick for covering a seam
the paint. between two iron-on films, too.

Trim FIBERGLASS CLOTH

The easiest way to put on stripes is with strip¬ If you are building a plane with very little open
ing tape or trim film. Trim MonoKote is a self- framework in the structure, you might want to con¬
adhesive film that goes over just about everything. sider fiberglassing it. Applying a coat of fiberglass
Coverite has a whole line of Graphics, trim film that will greatly strengthen the surface of the wood, and
is die-cut in letters, numbers, stripes and stars. I make it much more resistant to dings and scratches.
use a lot of Carl Goldberg Color Stripe, a very thin This is also very useful over foam wings. Most paints
tape that is flexible enough to make good comers. go over a fiberglassed surface very easily, and get¬
All of these products have a type of adhesive that ting the surface smooth enough to paint is much eas¬
doesn’t develop its maximum strength for a few ier than filling the wood grain or the surface of the
hours, so unless the surface you’re applying it to foam with a brush-on filler. You can lay on the fiber¬
is fragile, you can lift and reposition them. glass cloth in a couple of simple steps, and it takes
When you apply striping tape, be very careful only the lightest sanding to prepare it for the final
not to stretch it. If you pull it tight, it’ll inevitably coat.
shrink back and pull away at the ends. Work the tape
around a curve gradually, pulling it up and pushing
it down again until the outer edge of the tape Grades of Fiberglass Cloth
stretches smoothly around the comer. You can buy fiberglass cloth in several different
grades, differentiated by the weight of the cloth.
Masking K&B makes three grades: light, medium and, heavy.
If you want to paint your detail color, there are Other sources offer even lighter weights. Look for
a few tips you should use when you’re masking the small ads in the model magazines that offer ultra¬
area to be painted. Ordinary masking tape will grab light cloth. It’s expensive, so I use it most where
pretty tightly. Be very careful when you pull the tape there are tight comers or curves. I’ve bought ultra¬
up; pull it back on itself at a very sharp angle, and light glass cloth from Dan Parsons, 11809 Fulmer
work slowly. If you’re concerned about pulling up Dr. NE, Albuquerque, NM 87111.
your base color, you can use drafting tape instead I use the lightest grade I can get for most appli¬
of masking tape; this is made of the same kind of cations. The lighter the cloth, the more easily it
paper as masking tape, but has a much lighter grab. drapes around curves and tucks into comers. And
To avoid having paint creep under the edge of of course it will add less weight to the structure.
the tape, I like to mb it down lightly with a blunt Heavy cloth is used for reinforcing areas that
piece of wood. A very light coat of clear spray, such need strength. A two-inch wide strip of heavy glass
as Black Baron Clear, will seal the edges very ef¬ cloth glued around the joint between two wing panels
fectively. Be certain that whatever spray you use will greatly strengthen the wing and add relatively
is compatible with the undercoat. little weight.

78
Fiberglass cloth is adhered to the surface with thinned epoxy or epoxy paint. Work from the center of the surface to the
edges, being careful not to trap air underneath. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

Medium cloth can be used to toughen surfaces ing consistency right out of the bottle. It’s also free
that might be abused in use. A layer of this cloth of the wax that ordinary epoxy glues sometimes
along the bottom of a fuselage will add a lot of scuff have that make them difficult to sand.
resistance in the event of a bad landing. Many modelers use polyester resin for fiber¬
glassing. I don’t care for it, because of the MEK
Applying Fiberglass catalyst it uses. MEK Peroxide can blind you very
Before you apply fiberglass cloth, make sure quickly if any gets in your eyes. If you use polyester
you've sanded the surface until it's smooth. Glass¬ resin, be sure to wear eye protection.
ing won’t cover glue ridges, bumps, or seams. Use Cut a piece of glass cloth larger by !4 inch all
a light grade of sandpaper for final smoothing, and the way around than the surface you are covering.
vacuum the surface to remove the dust. Starting at one comer, brush the epoxy through the
There are several epoxies on the market that cloth and onto the surface. Work slowly until you
work well for fiberglassing. I’ve used K&B Clear have the comer secured. Now work across the sur¬
Epoxy paint with excellent success. Some people face, being careful not to trap air bubbles under the
like to use an ordinary 30-minute epoxy, thinned to cloth.
brushing consistency with alcohol. To work around comers and curves, go slowly
PIC Coating Poxy is a new product on the mar¬ and use the brush to make sure the glass is right
ket just for fiberglassing. It mixes to a good brush¬ down on the surface. If you can, start with the

79
Light fiberglass cloth will drape right around corners easily. When you have the entire surface adhered, work around the
corners, brushing out any wrinkles. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

When your fiberglass is attached, and a filler coat has been brushed on and sanded off, you’re ready to spray paint. (Photo
by Jennifer Pratt)

80
comers so that there’s no tension on the cloth as sand very lightly before applying this coat; sand just
you’re adhering it at the most difficult point. When enough to remove any bumps or ridges, being sure
you finish the panel, look at the comers again to be not to sand down into the cloth. Seams and over¬
certain that you haven’t inadvertently pulled the laps should be sanded out now; they will feather out
cloth up from the comer. This is easy to correct flat very quickly.
while the epoxy is still soft. I like to use a primer at this point, such as Hob-
byPoxy Fast Fill or SIG Skybrite Primer. Both sand
very well. Since the Skybrite is a spray, it will prob¬
Sanding and Finishing Glass Cloth ably require two coats.
Once the cloth is on and the epoxy has set, it Once your primer is down and sanded, inspect
will usually require a coat of clear epoxy paint or the surface under a bright light. Sand out any rough
something similar to totally fill the weave. You should spots now. When you’re happy, apply color coats.

81
 Chapter 6

Flying: The Froof of the Pudding

I T WAS A PERFECT DAY, AND I WAS READY TO FLY.

But something wasn’t quite right. I hunted around
your eye passes over; proofreaders learn this early.
I always ask someone else to look over my plane
for the fault and found something that worried me; the first time I bring it out. Don’t be afraid to ask
one aileron had hinges that were starting to come for this courtesy from your fellow fliers; most of the
loose. It might not have caused a problem in the air, “experts” do it, too.
and I sure hated to waste that beautiful day, but I
chickened out and started packing up the plane. An YOUR PREFLIGHT CHECKLIST
old flying buddy of mine consoled me with this rule:
Here is a list of things that you should do be¬
‘‘It’s a lot better to be down here wishing you were
fore you fly. It’s based on a lot of experience—my
up there, than up there wishing you were down
own and that of many others.
here.”

ARE YOU READY? Before Mounting the Wing

If your plane has been built straight, and the en¬ Inspect each servo linkage. Tighten the screw
gine and radio installed properly, and the whole that holds the servo output arm. If you’ve used
works has been checked over by an expert friend, pushrod connectors that have a screw that tightens
then yes, you’re ready. At least, your airplane is. down on the pushrod, check these for tightness.
You’ll probably need some emotional preflight check¬ Look at the battery pack and receiver. Have
out, too. they come out of their protective foam wrapping?
The help of an expert friend is very important. Check each servo lead where it plugs into the
Someone else will almost always spot something that receiver. Is it still plugged all the way in?

82
Club flying fields are great places to meet your friends and see what they’re flying. You’ll learn a lot, and enjoy yourself too.

Inspect for cracks in the fuselage or any signs Grab the vertical fin and wiggle it. Do the same
of fuel or oil leaks. Oil will work its way under the to the stabilizer. Are they still firmly glued? Some¬
wing or through openings in the engine compart¬ times the tail of a plane takes a real beating in the
ment, and will eventually weaken the wood. trunk of your car on the way to the field!
Check your wing attachment system. If you use Tug gently on each aileron, on the elevator, and
nylon bolts, are the mounting blocks securely glued on the rudder. Look at the hinges as you do this.
to the fuselage? If you use rubber bands, are the Are any of them starting to pull loose? The force
retaining dowels cracked or bent? of the air can pull a control surface right off the plane
if the hinges aren’t firmly glued in and pinned.
After Mounting the Wing Check each wheel. Does it rotate smoothly? Is
Is part of the aileron servo wire peeking out the wheel collar set screw tight? I’ve had wheels
from under one wing? Is the wing seated firmly in fall off in flight; it’s embarrassing, and it makes land¬
place? ings more interesting than they ought to be.
Look at all the clevises and control horns. Cle¬ Did your landing gear get bent the last time you
vises can come unsnapped, which puts a lot of strain landed? It can make the plane handle poorly during
on the clevis pin. Homs can come loose, too. Each taxi and takeoff.
of your clevises should be “ safe tied” with a bit of Walk a few paces to the front of the plane and
fuel tubing, as described in Chapter 4. look straight at it. Check for a crookedly mounted

83
wing or other obvious problems. Do the same to the from side to side. Klunks sometimes get wedged
rear of the plane. against one comer of the tank.
Disconnect the tank pressure line from the muf¬
fler, and fuel line from the carburetor. If you’re not
The Engine
using muffler pressure, check to be sure the vent
Give the engine compartment the once-over. Is
line won’t spray fuel where it isn’t wanted as the
the throttle connection tight? Losing throttle con¬
tank fills.
trol may not crash your plane, but it won’t make the
Fill the tank. As you do, watch for leaks and
flight more fun, either.
cracks in the fuel line.
Check the engine mounting bolts. These take
Hook up the pressure line to the muffler (if used)
more vibration than most other components and can
and the fuel line to the carburetor. Make sure these
loosen quickly when the engine is running.
lines are as straight as possible, and that there are
Check the muffler bolts. I’ve seen a lot of muf¬
no kinks to restrict fuel flow.
flers bail out in mid-flight!
Check the prop and spinner. Examine the prop
for cracks. Never use a cracked prop! Control Checkout
Pick up the plane and shake it gently side-to- Put the plane on the ground. Get your frequency
side. You should be able to hear the klunk weight pin and switch on your transmitter. Now switch on
at the end of the fuel pickup in the tank as it moves your receiver and move all the controls. Watch for

The Super Cradle comes in handy on the field, as a convenient place to assemble and check out your plane. (Photo by
Jennifer Pratt)

84
smoothness of operation; jerky movement can indi¬
cate a loose pushrod or a servo with problems.
Check to make sure your controls all move in
the proper directions! Even the experts sometimes
take off with the ailerons working backwards. This
is especially important if your radio has switches that
reverse the servo’s direction of rotation. Those
switches can get moved, and the best time to dis¬
cover it is now.

Range Checking the Radio

You can’t put your transmitter on a spectrum
analyzer and your receiver on an oscilloscope be¬
fore every flying session, but you can perform a very
simple test that will help spot abnormal conditions
before you discover them in the air.
With your plane on the ground and the radio sys¬
tem on, fully collapse your transmitter antenna. This
reduces the power output to a very low level. Stand
at the front of the plane, looking down at it. Now
walk away from the plane, counting your paces. Ev¬
ery few steps, turn and face the plane, pointing the
collapsed antenna directly at it. Since most of the
radio energy radiates from the sides of the antenna,
Range checking your radio should be done every time you
this makes it even harder for the receiver to hear go flying. With the transmitter antenna collapsed, see how
the transmitter. Move the controls. Sooner or later, far away you can get and still control the plane. If you no¬
you’ll be too far away from the plane to control it tice a drop in range, check out the radio system carefully.
(Photo by Jennifer Pratt)
properly. The surfaces will move jerkily, or not at all.
Now walk slowly back toward the plane until you
Pete Waters, owner and operator of Kraft Mid¬
regain solid control. Remember the number of paces
west, a major radio system repair business, pointed
it takes to get to this point. You should be 40 or 50
out to me that range checks are most valuable if
feet away from the the plane right now. If you’re
they’re always done in the same place. If you always
of average height, you probably stride 2 Vi feet, so
range check at the same spot, your system will al¬
you should be 15 to 20 paces from the plane.
ways “see” the same terrain and surroundings. It’ll
You’re standing on the ground, with your an¬
be easier to remember exactly how far away you
tenna collapsed, and the plane is on the ground, too.
got before the servos started to jitter. If you range
You’re pointing the antenna at the plane. This is the
test a system at the field, then take it home to your
worst position for the radio link. If you have good
back yard and do the same check, you will probably
range under these conditions, you’ll be in good shape
see a quite different range. This can get really con¬
in the air.
fusing! So try to range check your system in the
Range check your plane every time you bring
same spot each time.
it out to the field. If you find that range is less than
it was the last time you checked, look for other prob¬
lems. There will be variations due to terrain, high Checking the Batteries
humidity, and other factors that affect radio waves, I assume that you charged your batteries the
but these should be barely noticeable. night before your flying session. Check Chapter 3

85
for information on the care and feeding of your sys¬ problems as you build. See Chapter 4 for more in¬
tem batteries, and the equipment and procedures formation on how to avoid stalling servos by prop¬
you need to check them out in the shop. But you erly laying out your pushrods and control runs.
also need to be able to check battery condition on I like to check my receiver battery pack before
the field, before you fly. every third flight. I make it a definite rule not to fly
As we discussed in Chapter 3, ni-cad batteries more than four flights without checking or charging
don’t discharge at an even rate. They maintain a the receiver pack.
relatively high voltage until they’re just about out There are several very handy devices on the
of juice, then the voltage drops quickly. They also market to help you check your receiver pack. They
bounce up to a higher voltage if they aren’t under are often called ESVs, or expanded scale voltmeters.
load; in other words, if they aren’t actually putting Expanded scale means that the voltmeter is designed
power into something, they’ll show a higher volt¬ to show a very small change of voltage. Some ESVs
age than they can actually deliver when called upon use meters; others use some form of digital readout.
to work. So you need to be able to check the trans¬ All of them put a load on the battery pack to check
mitter and receiver batteries under load, with a de¬ the voltage while the battery is working. You con¬
vice sensitive enough to spot minor changes in nect an ESV to your receiver pack through the
voltage. charging jack. You’re looking for two things: the
The transmitter is no problem. When you switch voltage level, and how quickly it drops. If the volt¬
it on, check the meter. It’ll show you the state of age reads in the green area of the meter, okay so
the batteries, usually with a green-yellow-and-red far. Leave the ESV connected for about 60 seconds.
range to indicate when it’s safe to fly. The trans¬ If the voltage drops more than about .2 volt, you
mitter batteries never have to cope with varying should think twice before flying.
power loads, since the transmitter circuitry draws Don’t leave an ESV plugged in for more than
the same power no matter where the sticks or other a couple of minutes. The resistor in the ESV will
controls are set. So transmitter batteries seldom get warm, and you’ll drain the receiver pack.
cause trouble, except at the end of a long day’s
flying—or if they were accidentally left off the
charger the night before. THE PIT AREA
The receiver battery is a different story. It has The club flying field will have a designated pit
to do more than supply steady power to the re¬ area where you can lay out your airplane, fuel, equip¬
ceiver. Each servo contains an electric motor that ment, lawn chair, and cooler. This is an area that
draws all its power from the receiver pack. If one is supposedly free of spectators (who have a ten¬
of these motors encounters resistance, it draws dency to trip over things) where you can assemble
more power. If for some reason it stalls, or comes your plane and check it over.
up against something it can’t move, it draws a whole Many fields don’t permit you to start or run your
lot of power and can drain your receiver battery in engine in the pits, but have a designated area off to
a matter of minutes. the side for this. This is to avoid problems if your
So the rate at which you discharge your receiver engine backfires and the prop nut and spinner come
battery will depend on two main factors: how long flying off, or if your prop should happen to shed a
the receiver is switched on and how much work the blade. You should respect these rules and avoid the
servos do. If you’re flying a sailplane that doesn’t temptation to run your engine right next to all your
fly fast (so the servos don’t have to push as hard), equipment in the pits. At the club field where I fly,
your receiver battery will last longer. On a fast aer¬ starting the engine in the pit is permissible. Once
obatic machine flown through plenty of high-speed you have it going, you taxi or carry the plane to a
maneuvers, the pack can be drained in a few flights. spot halfway between the pit and the flight line for
You can solve a lot of potential battery drain engine runup.

86
RUNNING UP THE ENGINE can make your hand slip) and point the nose of the
Model engines ought to be run up to full throt¬ plane up in the air. It doesn’t have to be straight
tle for a moment and checked before each flight, up, but point it as high up as you can get it without
even if you just came down a few minutes ago for getting too close to the prop. Hold the plane in this
more fuel. Why? For the same reason that you wig¬ position for 10 seconds or so. Does the engine sag
gle your controls before each takeoff. It’s your last out and sound like it’s going to quit? It’s too lean.
chance to spot a brewing problem before it turns into Does the engine speed up and run happily at a
an in-flight emergency. slightly higher speed? The needle valve is set slightly
Model engines like to warm up, and the time on the rich side, which is right where you want it.
spent idling and testing before takeoff is helpful. Put the plane back on the ground and pick up
Here are some simple checks you can perform the transmitter. Quickly reduce the throttle to idle.
quickly to help the engine settle into the groove. Does the engine sound as if it’s going to quit? If it’s
First, straddle the airplane behind the wing, with too lean, it’ll sometimes quit entirely when you do
the stabilizer touching your ankles. This may appear this. You might have to adjust the idle mixture, a
awkward, but it’s very unlikely that the plane will procedure that varies with the type of engine you
get away from you when you’re holding it like this. have; see the chapters on engines for details of this.
Now slowly advance the throttle, watching the en¬ The purpose of these exercises is to detect a
gine all the while. Does it move from idle to high too-lean engine before takeoff. All engines run leaner
speed smoothly, or does it sag out as you start to once they’re in the air, because the prop unloads.
advance the throttle? Sagging is a sign that the nee¬ They lean out when the nose of the plane points up,
dle valve is set too rich and needs to be turned in because fuel flow is slightly reduced by gravity.
a couple of clicks. When it’s at high speed, does it When you take off, you get both of these conditions
roar smoothly, or does it start to sag after 10 se¬ at once; the prop starts pulling the plane, and the
conds of full speed? Sagging at full throttle probably nose goes up. Having your engine quit just as you
indicates that the engine is too lean and the needle start to gain some altitude means an unplanned land¬
valve needs to be backed out a couple of clicks. You ing. It happens to all of us; I had it happen to me
can lean forward, holding the transmitter in one just a few weeks ago, with a plane that I had flown
hand, and perform the necessary adjustments on the twice that day, because I neglected to follow my own
needle valve with very little risk of sticking your fin¬ preflight procedures. (We’ll discuss what to do when
ger in the prop. Remember, all adjustments to the an engine fails on takeoff in just a minute, under
needle valve must be done from behind the engine. Takeoffs.)
Never reach around a spinning prop to tweak a nee¬
dle valve...sooner or later you could slash your
wrists that way. When dealing with moving
TAXIING
propellers, you can never be too careful. Point your plane in the direction you want to go,
This is a good time to spot engine mount bolts and carefully add throttle. Practice turning the plane
and muffler attachment bolts that are getting ready until you have a good feel for how tight a turn you
to let go. If you see bolt heads jiggling, stop every¬ can make. In fact, if you have the chance, you should
thing and tighten them up. If your muffler leaves the practice taxiing up and down the runway a few times.
party from 50 feet in the air, it’s going to be very If your field is too busy for this, do it in another suita¬
hard to locate . . . especially since you can’t take ble area.
your eyes off the plane to see where the muffler If your plane has a nose wheel, you’ll discover
went! how tightly you can turn without tilting the plane up
Okay, the engine is holding its speed and sound¬ on its nose. When you built the plane you might have
ing good at full throttle. Set the transmitter on the been concerned about how little the nosewheel
ground. Grasp the plane firmly by the leading edge seemed to turn. Once you start taxiing around, you
of the wing (watch out for oil from the exhaust, which realize that it doesn’t take much movement of the

87
 CORRECT

When you start your engine, have a helper holding the model firmly. Adjust the engine from the rear. Never reach around
the engine from the front. Watch out for loose clothing that can get caught in the prop! (Illustration by Hank Clark, used
by permission of Altech Marketing)

88
nosewheel to make the plane taxi where you want runway, or if the plane shows any tendency to get
it to. light on its feet. Make a few runs in this manner,
If your plane is a taildragger, you’ll discover that with a little more throttle each time. Practice until
holding about half up elevator helps keep the tail on you’re sure you can add the rudder necessary to
the ground and greatly improves steerability. It also track straight down the runway every time. This will
slows the plane down quite a lot. If you suddenly also teach you at what speed the plane will become
let the elevator return to neutral, you’ll be surprised airborne, and whether or not you’ll have to use a
how quickly the plane will move forward. And it may touch of up elevator to unstick the wheels from the
very well nose over and stop the engine. Practice ground.
until you can make it go where you want with no Now you can get a bit braver, if you have a long
danger of nosing over. enough runway, and practice becoming airborne for
I’ve built a lot of taildragger airplanes, and I’ve brief hops. As you do this, watch for any tendency
always found that they are perfectly easy to maneu¬ for the plane to roll either left or right. A roll like
ver on the ground. This is true whether they have this could indicate a warped wing. As the plane
a fixed tailskid or one that is attached to the rudder breaks ground, you’ll have to learn to release the
and moves with it. Whether you have a fixed or rudder you were holding to keep it tracking straight
steerable tailskid (or tailwheel), check it frequently on the ground. Learn this with brief hops and let your
to make sure that it tracks straight with the rest of confidence build.
the plane. Skids can get bent off to one side or the Taildraggers are trickier to handle here, as
other, making the plane pull to one side during the you’ll discover, but you can learn more from taxiing
takeoff run. them. You have to discover how much up elevator
Taxiing a new plane around is a lot of fun, since the plane needs to keep the tail from coming up too
there’s very little chance of doing it any damage. fast as it builds up speed and nosing over onto the
It’s useful, too, so you have some good excuses to prop. If you hold too much up, the plane will take
go out and play with the plane without actually fly¬ off from a three-point stance, which can be right on
ing it. As you putt around on the grass, observe the the edge of a stall. Learn to make high-speed taxis
way the controls work. If the plane consistently pulls with your taildragger up on its main wheels, track¬
to one side or the other, check to be sure that the ing straight down the runway, settling back down
wheels spin freely on the axles. If the plane is a tail¬ when you chop the throttle. Once you have this
dragger, the wheel axles should be in line with or down pat, taking off will be a piece of cake.
slightly ahead of the leading edge of the wing. If they
are very far behind the leading edge, the plane will TAKEOFF
tend to nose over a lot and be very tricky to land. You’ll sometimes see fliers walk out onto the
You can experiment with giving the engine quick runway and stand behind their plane as they take
bursts with the rudder hard over to blow the tail off. They get into the habit, and some claim this
around to the left or right. That’s a technique that makes it easier for them to correct any rolling to
full-scale taildragger pilots use; of course, it’s eas¬ the right or left as the plane breaks ground. I don’t
ier for them since they can use wheel brakes! (So like this practice for several reasons. For one tiling,
can you if you want to install them; DuBro makes once the plane takes off, you either have to have
the parts to add brakes to your plane.) a friend beside you to lead you back to the pilot area
Once you’re comfortable with the plane’s at the side of the runway, or you have to try to walk
ground handling, make some simulated takeoff runs. back there and watch the plane at the same time.
Line it up straight at one end of the runway, and It also makes it harder to judge how steeply the plane
slowly add throttle. When the plane starts to roll, is pointing its nose in the air. I really feel that it’s
concentrate on keeping it tracking in a straight line. better practice to stand in the pilot area, get your¬
Shut down the throttle when you get halfway up the self positioned and comfortable while your plane is

89
idling on the taxiway, and then taxi out to the end fortable with it, make a left turn (away from the flight
of the runway for takeoff. line) and move out into the flight area, where you
Common courtesy (and sometimes club rules) can enjoy yourself.
dictates that you should make your intentions known If you checked your engine as we described
to the other pilots on the flight line. They’re con¬ earlier, it should not have sagged out or quit when
centrating on their airplanes, and can’t take a min¬ you took off. An engine failure on takeoff can be
ute to glance over and see if you’re on the runway. merely an embarrassment, if you’re lucky enough
Announce your intentions by saying “I’m on the to have a field with a clear space beyond the run¬
field’’ or something like that in a loud voice. way to put the plane down. Don’t panic. Don’t try
The pilots who are already in the air have the to pull the nose up or stretch the glide. Airspeed
right of way. If one of them is preparing to land, or is your most important consideration at this point,
has his engine quit (“dead stick”), you must wait and in order to maintain airspeed, you need to keep
for him to make his landing before you may taxi out the nose low. Don’t try to turn! Turning takes a lot
onto the active runway. You will get the same of airspeed, and you can easily stall the plane right
courtesy from him later. into the ground at this point. Pretend that there’s
You’ll find that most RC flight lines have marked a runway underneath the plane, and land on it.
spots for the pilot to stand on while flying. AMA’s
Frequency Committee recommends that these spots BASIC MANEUVERS
be at least 20 feet apart. This is because the signals
There are a few basic maneuvers you need to
from two transmitters on different channels can com¬
master in order to make the plane do what you want
bine to cause interference on a third channel, a
it to. More importantly, they help you discover what
phenomenon known as third-order intermodulation.
the plane is capable of, and can show you potential
If you want to know more about this, see Chapter
problems. As we go through these basics, I’ll
2 of The Advanced Guide to Radio Control Sport
describe things to watch for that will tell you to make
Flying (TAB Book #3060), or Appendix F. But even
certain changes or adjustments to the plane. Being
if you don’t understand what makes it happen, it’s
able to analyze a plane in flight like this will serve
important that you know that it’s there. Further¬
you well in the future!
more, third-order intermodulation disappears when
the two transmitters that are producing it are moved
apart. At 20 feet of separation between transmit¬ What the Controls Do
ters,^ should be negligible. So don’t stand right next When you first look at an RC plane, it looks sim¬
to the other guys on the flight line! ple: the rudder turns it right and left, the ailerons
After you’ve practiced hopping the plane, take¬ are for making it fly level, the throttle makes it go
off is the natural next step. Position yourself at the faster or slower, and the elevator makes it go up
end of the runway, facing into whatever wind is and down. Wrong on all counts. Working together,
blowing. Advance the throttle slowly, as you prac¬ all of these controls make it do all of these things,
ticed. Keep the plane tracking straight; if it veers but it isn’t as simple as that.
to one side or the other, chop the throttle and start The relationship between throttle and elevator
over at the end of the runway. Your practice ses¬ is important. It’s exactly the reverse of what a be¬
sions will help keep you from over controlling. ginner expects: Throttle controls altitude, and ele¬
You’re headed down the runway at about half vator controls airspeed. The combination of the two
throttle, looking good. Smoothly add throttle until determines how high, how fast, and in what attitude
the wheels leave the ground. Release any rudder the plane will fly. This interaction is easy to under¬
you were using to keep the plane tracking straight, stand when you understand another basic rule; alti¬
and hold enough elevator to ascend smoothly in a tude and airspeed are interchangeable. To get one,
shallow climb. Once you’re high enough to be com¬ you give up some of the other.

90
Turns through the turn, and ended up opposite where we
When you consider it, you’ll see that a model started, on the left; then let it return to neutral.
plane spends most of its time in turning flight, rather As you practice this maneuver, you’ll learn how
than straight wings-level attitude, so the way a plane much elevator and aileron to hold through this proce¬
handles itself in a turn is most important. dure for your particular plane. All planes are differ¬
You can get in trouble in a turn in a number of ent in the precise ways they react to control inputs.
ways. If you turn too tightly, some planes will stall You’ll probably horse the plane around a bit while
the lower wing, resulting in a sudden snap roll. A you’re feeling it out, but you’ll have it smoothed out
less extreme effect (thought still disconcerting) of quickly; it’s a very natural action.
this is the tendency to increase the angle of bank,
often called “dropping the wingtip.” You will find Turning Three-Channel Planes
yourself fighting to make the bank more shallow by
Three-channel airplanes (rudder, elevator and
applying opposite aileron, while adding more up ele¬
throttle controls only) don’t have ailerons. They turn
vator to keep the nose from dropping too. This can
by using the rudder to rock the wings to the left or
stall both wings!
right. You’ll find that they will respond in a very simi¬
In any case, you need to be aware of good turn¬
lar manner to the aileron plane described above. The
ing technique. You should practice making turns until
only noticeable difference is that not as much up ele¬
you can put the plane in any turning attitude and you
vator is required, and adding elevator won’t tighten
know what to expect.
the turn significantly. Concentrate on using the ele¬
Follow me through a typical right turn in a
vator to keep the nose level. The nose will show
trainer plane equipped with ailerons. First we feed
a strong tendency to drop in the middle of a turn
in right aileron to bank the plane. We add aileron
on this kind of airplane.
until the plane is about at a 45-degree angle. Then,
still holding right stick, we pull the stick back gen¬
tly. This gives us up elevator and actually starts the APPROACH AND LANDING
plane turning. If we want a tighter turn, we add more It’s time to think about landing. The best way
up elevator; a shallower turn, we let the stick move to land a plane is to allow it to sink onto the runway
back toward the center a little. Meanwhile, we are with its nose still level. Different planes will sink at
holding as much right aileron as the plane needs to different rates. You can experiment with your plane
maintain its angle of bank. At this point, halfway to discover the right combination of throttle and ele¬
through the turn, it probably needs less right aile¬ vator to make it sink. Set up an approach, except
ron than we started with. rather than being at the right altitude, start out con¬
Now the nose is swinging around to the head¬ siderably higher than you would if you really intended
ing we want the plane to be on at the end of the turn. to hit the runway. Holding the nose level with up
Still holding up elevator, we move the stick through elevator, reduce throttle to idle. As the plane slows,
neutral to left aileron. The plane levels its wings. continue to hold the nose up with more elevator.
As this happens, less up elevator is required. We Soon you’ll see it start to settle toward the ground,
let the stick move forward, and when the wings are perfectly level. Be careful not to point the nose up,
level we let the ailerons return to neutral. We have or you’ll risk slowing the plane past its stalling speed
held enough up elevator to keep the nose level in and inviting a snap roll. Stand by the throttle con¬
the last part of the turn, since here is where it will trol, and add power again once you’ve seen where
show a tendency to drop. the sink begins and how fast the plane comes down.
If you run through this maneuver in your mind, Do this a few times out in front of you, where you
you’ll see that we moved the stick in a sort of down¬ can watch the plane and are comfortable controlling
facing D. We started moving it to the right, swung it.
it down and to the center as the plane proceeded Now practice making runs at the runway. Fly

91
 the square pattern; parallel the runway, then turn discuss the essential ones first, then look at some
onto your downwind leg. Make your turn onto final of the conveniences.
at half throttle. Reduce throttle to idle when you're
lined up with the runway. Hold the nose up just as
Field Boxes
you did when you were experimenting with making
the plane sink. If you get it right, it'll sink right onto The first thing you’ll need is something to carry
the runway for a “three point’’ landing. If not, be your junk to the field with. A shoebox will do the
ready to slowly add throttle and do a missed ap¬ trick at first, but it won’t be long before you want
proach or “go-around.” something better.
All the while you're doing this, keep your wings There are several field boxes of varying sizes
level with the ailerons. This can often be the tricki¬ on the market. The smallest one is the Handi-Tote
est part of making your approach, and that's why from Carl Goldberg Models. It has a drawer, a box
you should practice making approaches until you can on top with holes for tools, a transmitter carrier, a
keep the plane on the proper heading straight down spot for a tank of fuel, and another spot for a bat¬
the runway. I had difficulties with this on my first tery. There are two wire racks that support a small
powered plane. A friend suggested that I tell my¬ plane on the top; these are removable. I have two
self to “point the stick at the low wing’’ while I'm of these, one for electric flying and the other for
on approach. In other words, if I'm coming in and diesel engine supplies.
the right wing starts to drop, I move the aileron stick Most fliers need a little more than this. Your
to the right to level the wings. It worked, and the dealer will show you quite a range of boxes, with
plane survived long enough for me to develop the a lot of different features. I’ve gotten a lot of good
reflexes to keep the wings level whether it was com¬ use out of a box made by AeroTrend. It’s made of
ing at me or going away. fiberglass, with a hinged lid that drops down to form
Practice, practice, practice. Make your first ap¬ a tray. Three drawers hold small parts. Two very
proaches high so you have plenty of room to recover solid clamps hold the plane at a good spot for me
as you feel out the plane. Remember what the to work on it without bending over. It even has fold¬
professional pilots say: “Nothing is more useless ing legs on the bottom. This box stands in the cor¬
than altitude above you, unless it's fuel left on the ner of my workshop when it’s not on the field.
ground.’’ You will soon learn how your plane likes Another very useful box I have is from Ultra
you to control it in all speed ranges. Systems. Ultra makes a wide range of boxes nota¬
Once your wheels touch the ground, your plane ble for their excellent plane supports. They can hold
becomes a land vehicle and you have to shift mental a plane of any size or shape at any angle. I use one
gears to accommodate it. Forget the aileron and of these near my workbench to hold the fuselage
start using the rudder to steer. Plaster the wheels while I install the radio or work on the engine. Many
on the ground by letting the elevator come back Ultra boxes have a built-in paper towel rack, a real
down. Hold just enough up elevator to keep the help at the end of the day.
plane from nosing over; you don’t want too much, Generally speaking, you should look for a field
or you may find that you have enough speed to go box that has a couple of drawers to hold bits and
right back up in the air. pieces. It should have a good place to put your
Now you’re taxiing, just as you practiced be¬ starter and the 12-volt battery necessary to run it.
fore your first takeoff. You should be good at this If you plan to use a power panel (see below), pick
by now. a box with a spot to install the panel and a secure,
vented compartment for the 12-volt battery. Legs
are nice, since you’ll get really tired of bending over
GROUND EQUIPMENT
all day long. The best stands support your model
There are lots of different items that you can at the right height to work on it at the field. The
carry with you to the field for ground support. I’ll supports must be secure. If they’re at all weak or

92
A field box is handy for carrying equipment and spare parts out to the field. Most boxes have room for a battery, starter,
fuel pump, and small parts. Some support the airplane for testing and engine running. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

wobbly, don't start the engine before you remove slightly. If you find another brand of glow plug bat¬
the plane and set it on the ground. tery, look closely at the mechanism that locks it onto
the plug. That's the most important part. Some sim¬
ply jam on, and can pop off once the engine starts
Glow Plug Battery shaking.
You will need to connect a IVi-woM battery to It’s often useful to have a meter on the plug bat¬
your glow plug to start the engine. There are several tery. A voltmeter will show you that the battery isn't
different devices that do this. You can use a dry bat¬ flat and is delivering the voltage to the plug.
tery, but this will run down before long. Most of the McDaniel makes a Metered Ni-Starter that has a
people I fly with use small recharegable batteries that voltmeter, the battery, and the Head Lock in a neat
have a glow plug connector attached directly to stack. Ace RC's Nilite 3 is similar.
them. The most popular of these is the Ni-Starter, Many fliers go a step beyond a simple battery
manufactured by McDaniel RC and sold in hobby and use a device called a glow driver. These circuits
stores. It charges overnight, and is good for several are capable of varying the current delivered to the
days of average use between charges. Another plug; some do this automatically, others are adjusta¬
popular product of this type is the Nilite 2, made by ble with a knob. Most of such circuits are enclosed
Ace RC. They both attach to the plug with a fitting in a power panel, a device that fits into your range
called a Head Lock, which locks in place by twisting box and is powered by a 12-volt battery.

93
Carl Goldberg Models makes three field boxes of different sizes. The newest one is the Super Tote, which can carry a
12-volt battery, power panel, fuel can, pump, parts and tools. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

Fuel Pump Finally, for those of us who are as lazy as we

You're going to need some method of getting can manage, there are electric fuel pumps. These
fuel into the tank. The simplest and cheapest method usually require either 6 or 12-volt batteries as power
is a fuel bulb. These are made of rubber, and have sources. Most power panels have the appropriate
brass spouts to connect your fuel line to. They sel¬ connections to power and control a pump. This is
dom break, and they work whether your battery is really the ultimate in convenience.
charged or not. I carry one in my range box as a There are a lot of electric fuel pumps available.
spare. It also comes in very handy for squirting a I’ve used several and had good results with all. My
few drops of fuel into a carb to prime it, or blowing favorite is a Mark X, made by Sonic-Tronics. This
air into the engine exhaust port to help clear a flood. pump is sold in 6 or 12-volt models, with or without
The next simplest type of fuel pump is the hand a switch mounted on the pump itself. If you have
crank type. I’ve used two different ones, one made a power panel, you don’t need the switch.
by Dave Brown Products and the other made by Du- I have a 6-volt Mark X pump. I glued it to the
Bro. They both work very well. They attach to the case of a large five-cell ni-cad pack, and made it com¬
side of a fuel jug or can with a strap, and the tubes pletely portable. It’s worked for over four years with
fit into holes in the can cap. You just unplug one line no sign of leaking.
from the cap, attach it to your plane’s tank, and start
cranking. The Dave Brown "Six Shooter” pump is Clean-Up
available in a model that will pump gasoline and diesel Finally, you’ll need supplies to clean the exhaust
fuel as well as glow fuel. oil off your plane when the day’s flying is over. I

94
carry a roll of paper towels, plus some rags to wrap If you want a 12-volt battery you have two
around each engine so no oil drips onto my van choices: a small lead-acid battery or a sealed cell
carpet. “gellcell” type. The small lead-acid batteries are
A spray cleaner is a must. You want a cleaner generally the same size used in small motorcycles.
that cuts through oil, since most of the exhaust is They have to be filled with electrolyte and main¬
castor oil or other lubricant. Avoid any cleaner with tained just like a car battery. The “gellcell” batter¬
abrasives. I favor Windex and Formula 409. Small ies use a gelled electrolyte and are completely
bottles fit in the range box better, and can always sealed. They require no maintenance other than
be refilled from the household supply when your wife charging.
isn’t looking. Of the two, I highly recommend the gellcell. It
can’t be spilled, it won’t produce acid unless you
break it, and its generally a bit smaller and lighter
Starters and Chicken Sticks than the same size wet cell battery.
It may seem like a lot of money to spend at first, Charging these batteries is different from charg¬
but I recommend that you buy a starter. A good one ing ni-cad cells. Unlike a ni-cad, which can sit in a
will last you for years, and pay for itself several times partially-charged state for months, a lead-acid bat¬
over in good service. In my experience, Sullivan tery will die for good unless it’s kept at a good state
makes the best starters. of charge. You have to be aware of this and deal with
You also need to buy a chicken stick for flipping it.
the prop. I know you’ll see people on the field flip¬ The charger you usually get with a 12-volt bat¬
ping props by hand. You’re also likely to see those tery is intended to bring it up to full charge over¬
same folks with bandages on their flipping fingers night. You should put the battery on it for a few
sooner or later. If you flip a prop with your finger hours every month if you’re not using the battery
you are sure to get whacked sooner or later. Why regularly to make sure the battery hasn’t gotten dis¬
ask for it? Use a chicken stick, and only turn the charged.
prop over by hand when you’re firmly holding the I strongly recommend getting a charger that will
prop between your thumb and forefinger. go automatically to a trickle charge rate when it
senses that the battery is well charged. The Ace RC
“CVC” (Constant Voltage Charger) is the one I use.
12-Volt Batteries I built it from a kit and saved a few bucks. It senses
Modelers use 12-volt batteries for three main the state of charge of the battery and delivers charge
purposes: to power the starter, to run the fuel pump, current accordingly. You can leave your battery on
and to light the glow plug. They can also come in the CVC for weeks at a time—and I do.
handy for running various field charging devices.
If you don’t want to bother with a 12-volt bat¬ Tachometers
tery, you can easily get along without one. Using A tachometer will help you get the best perfor¬
a rechargeable glow plug battery such as the mance from your engine. They’re well-nigh essen¬
NiStarter will mean you don’t need a power panel. tial for setting four-stroke engines to a proper needle
And there are several different kits around to power valve setting. But you can get along without one for
your starter with a pack of 10 sub-C size ni-cad cells. years, too. It’s up to you; if you’re a beginner, ask
There’s even a device called a Bump Starter that for one for Christmas.
starts engines without any battery at all. It contains There are lots of tachometers on the market.
a powerful spring. You wind it up by cranking the I favor the ones that use a photocell to count the
starter cone backwards, and when you push it number of times a prop blade goes by, rather than
against the engine spinner, the spring is released and ones that have you push a cone against the spinner.
it turns over the motor. They’re much safer and easier to use, and they work

95
 very well from behind the prop, which is the best line can admit air to the carb and cause a lean run.
place to be when tuning the engine. I have a small plastic box with spare screws,
I’ve used several tachs with good success. The nuts, and bolts. This includes prop nuts, which are
Nor Cal Accu-Tach is a very compact unit that dou¬ impossible to find after they come flying off.
bles as a digital voltmeter, and has circuitry to ap¬ Finally, I carry a small bottle of Pacer’s After
ply a load to your batteries so it functions as a true Run Oil in my field box. After a day's flying I always
ESV. The only disadvantage I see to a tach with a put some oil into the engine crankcase to help pre¬
digital readout is that the display changes quite a bit vent rusted bearings. If the evening is a fine one and
as you get your reading. Craft-Air is producing a I’m not too tired, I'll do this on the field while clean¬
very good tachometer that allows you to tach an en¬ ing up the planes.
gine turning a three-blade prop. Ace RC makes the
Tachmaster 2, a very good unit that you can buy
WHERE TO FLY—COMMON COURTESY
in kit form or assembled. It has a meter with three
ranges, so it's very accurate for measuring idle and The very best place to go flying is your club's
flying field. You are in surroundings that were laid
top end. To calibrate it, you point it at a fluorescent
light bulb and push the button. Nice! out especially for flying model airplanes, so you don't
For more on how to use a tachometer, see have to cope with obstructions. You’re a safe dis¬
Chapters 7 and 8. tance from spectators, and some sort of crowd con¬
trol is in effect to keep people from wandering out
onto the runway when you're coming in deadstick.
Other Useful Field Tools
And you’re surrounded by friendly, knowledgeable
You should carry an assortment of tools with you fellow fliers who will be ready to offer helpful ad¬
when you go flying—not too many, since major ad¬ vice, occasional doses of sarcastic wit, and maybe
justments and repairs should be done at home, not even a glow plug or some fuel.
on the field. But a set of screwdrivers and Allen If you’re a beginner, you should find a club field.
wrenches is very useful. A four-way wrench such There are a lot of reasons, but the main one is that
as the Fox and Du-Bro units is a must; one of these you'll be much less likely to hurt yourself or others
will tighten prop nuts, wheel hubs, and glow plugs. if you're in the controlled environment of the club
If your model has a wing held on by bolts, make field. Alternatively, pick a big field—like 15 or 20
sure you have a screwdriver or Allen wrench of the acres—clear of trees and power lines, and with no
appropriate size. Sonic-Tronics makes a very nice other people around. You can’t watch your plane and
tool for wing bolts that stores the bolts in the handle. everyone else at the same time!
If you use rubber bands to hold the wing on, If the pasture you want to fly in isn't your prop¬
a few precautions are advised. You should store erty, find the owner and get his permission. This
them in a plastic bag; Ziploc bags are good for this. bit of common courtesy will come in real handy when
I prefer to use the bands once and throw them away, you want to fly there again. And you might just make
since they get stretched out and greasy. If you don't a new friend.
want to do this, then store the used rubber bands I strongly recommend against flying radio-
in a separate bag with some talcum powder in it to controlled model airplanes at public parks or school
absorb the oil. If they get too stretched out, throw fields. For one thing, there may well be rules against
them away . . . they're a lot cheaper than replacing it. Many school boards and park authorities, made
the plane. super-cautious by today’s uncomprehensible liabil¬
I carry about six inches of spare fuel tubing. ity insurance situation, will ban any faintly risky ac¬
Sometimes an engine runs too lean for no obvious tivity from their property. It doesn't matter that
reason, and tinkering with the needle valve is no model aviation has an outstanding safety record; they
help. One thing to try is to replace the fuel line from don’t understand it, that whirling propeller looks dan¬
the tank to the carb. A pinhole or crack in this fuel gerous, and they don’t want to be sued.

96
 Another good reason not to fly at the local park rules are intended to keep people from causing in¬
is crowd control. People young and old seem to terference and “shooting down” aircraft that are in
come out of nowhere when you fire up a model en¬ the air. You don’t want it to happen to you, and you
gine. They’re going to make you nervous, and justly don’t want to do it to someone else, so check those
so. I have crashed airplanes deliberately on two frequency rules!
different occasions because people appeared after Frequency control procedures will vary from
I took off and stood right in the middle of my ap¬ field to field, but the most important thing that they
proach pattern, watching me fly. In one case, my all have in common is this: Never switch on your
frantic waving to get out of the way was greeted with transmitter, no matter how briefly, until you’re sure
a friendly wave in return! Confronted with such stub¬ that you have control of the frequency you’re on!
bornness, I killed the engine and went into the Even if you just flick the transmitter switch on and
weeds. Fortunately, my spectators strolled away at off, that could be the moment that someone else on
this point; if they had come over to start asking why your frequency is coming in for a landing, and you
I landed that way, I might have told them. could flip him over or slam him into the ground.
Overhead power lines are another hazard: Don’t Check your transmitter before you arrive, so you
fly anywhere near them. Not only can they snag air¬ can be sure you don’t drive up with a transmitter
planes, knocking them out of the sky if you’re lucky that’s switched on and radiating. Don’t laugh; it’s
and capturing them if you’re not, but they can some¬ happened to me.
times cause radio interference. And if conditions are
right, you might become a lightning rod. I’ve seen Frequency Control Systems
power flow to the wires of a control line airplane from
There are two basic frequency control systems
overhead power lines a hundred feet away. There
in common use, with variations to suit the particu¬
was a flash, and the lines glowed like the filament
lar club’s taste. In the first and most common sys¬
of a light bulb, then vanished. The pilot wasn’t seri¬
tem, there’s a frequency board with pins attached
ously hurt, but none of us ever thought we’d get
to it, one for each frequency. These pins are often
zapped that far away from the power lines! Your
ordinary spring-type clothespins, with a piece of
transmitter antenna could be the same kind of light¬
wood or plastic glued to them and painted or printed
ning rod.
with the frequency they represent. Ace RC sells a
Never, but never, climb a power pole to receive
set of stickers showing each frequency, just for mak¬
a stuck airplane! It seems that every year there are
ing up these pins. Each pin is attached to the main
reports of people killing themselves by trying to re¬
board at a point that represents its frequency, in or¬
trieve kites or similar flying objects from power lines.
der, so you don’t have to hunt for the frequency you
The power company will come and get it for free
want to use.
if you call them.
Before you switch on your transmitter, you go
If your only alternative is to fly at an uncontrolled
to the board and pick up the pin with the frequency
site, take along someone else. You will need them
you’re on. You clip the pin to your transmitter an¬
to control any spectators who might show up.
tenna. While the pin is in your possession, the fre¬
There’s also the fact that you could get hurt, and
quency is yours, and you can switch your system
need someone else there to help deal with it. Club
on and fly. If the pin isn’t there, someone else is
fields have first-aid kits, as well as other experienced
using your frequency.
people—another good reason to find that club first!
Many club fields have little plastic pockets built
into their frequency board at each point where a pin
FIELD FREQUENCY PROCEDURES is attached. When you take the frequency pin, you
When you fly at a club field, you abide by the leave your AMA license card in the pocket. This
club’s rules. The most important rules you have to shows other people the name of the person using
follow are the frequency control procedures. These the frequency, and proves that you’re an AMA

97
 represents the frequency he uses. A glance at the
board shows what frequencies are in use and who
is using them.
This system isn't as common, mainly because
of people like me who forget to bring their frequency
pins with them! It also means that you have to make
yourself another pin each time you buy a radio sys¬
tem tuned to a different frequency from the one you
were using. But it does ensure that all fliers at a par¬
ticular field are club members and know the rules.
So some clubs with limited memberships use this
system.

Frequency Flags
Most clubs require that you display your fre¬
quency with a flag attached to your transmitter an¬
tenna while you’re flying. This makes it easier to
determine which frequency you’re using without
having to come over and ask you while you’re con¬
centrating on your plane. You probably got a fre¬
quency flag with your radio when you bought it. If
not, or if you lost yours, the radio manufacturer will
usually sell you another one. Ace RC sells frequency
flags that fit any antenna; you buy the two channel
If your club is small, maybe you won’t have a frequency
board or a transmitter impound. This makes it more impor¬ numbers you need, and a set of nylon straps and clips
tant to check with all the other fliers and find the ones who to attach it to your antenna.
are on the same channels you are. Make sure you don’t
Originally, radio control frequencies were desig¬
switch on your transmitter while they’re flying on your
channel! nated by a two-color code. In the 72 megahertz
(MHz) band where most people fly, one of these
member and covered by insurance. It also gives you colors was white. So you would have a frequency
a strong incentive not to forget to put the pin back flag that was brown and white, red and white, pur¬
and drive home with it still attached to your trans¬ ple and white, etc. That was fine when we only had
mitter! a few frequencies! Now that more frequencies have
Most clubs employing this system have a rule opened up, we’ve gone to a system of numbered
about how long you can keep the frequency pin when channels. You can get more information on this in
someone else is waiting for it. Generally, you can Chapter 3, where we go into the frequency scheme
fly as long as you like; but chores like tweaking the in detail. Suffice it to say that you’ll have two num¬
engine should be done at home where you're not bers on your frequency flag that tell you (and every¬
holding up someone else who wants to fly. A little one else) what channel you’re flying on. Most people
courtesy and understanding will go a long way. refer to the channel number rather than to the fre¬
The second frequency control system common quency, because it’s easier to remember Channel
at club fields works in the opposite way. Each club 46 than 72.590 MHz.
member comes to the field with a pin of his own that
has his name on it. It also shows the frequency of FIELD COURTESY
his transmitter. When he wants to fly, he places his
Most club field rules come dowm to common
pin on the frequency board in the position that
courtesy and sense. For example, most clubs ask

98
that you not run your engine up to full throttle in other on people milling around. The runway and the
the pit area where everyone is setting up their own area on the other side of it where the planes are in
equipment. The noise is annoying, and if your spin¬ the air are “off limits” when anyone is flying. It’s
ner comes off or your prop sheds a blade, it could a basic element of the AMA Safety Code; we never,
be dangerous. Take your plane out to an empty spot never fly over peoples’ heads.
on the taxiway or at one end of the pit area and per¬ Sometimes, though, you have to go out on the
form your preflight engine tests. runway. You might have the engine flame out just
Taxi your airplane only in the areas designated as you were advancing the throttle for takeoff. (It’s
for it. When your engine is running, that prop probably too lean; see Chapter 7.) You might have
presents a safety hazard. If you’re taxiing where nosed over and hit the prop against the ground, or
people are standing, and the plane gets away from taxiied into the weeds at the edge of the runway.
you for whatever reason, one of your friends could (Many fields leave these weeds tall, so they act as
stop it with his leg. It’s simpler and easier to carry plane-catchers if you come in too fast and run out
the plane out of the pits to the beginning of the taxi¬ of runway.)
way, and taxi it onto the field. If you have to go out on the runway, make sure
While we’re on the subject, here is something the other pilots know it. Announce “On the field!”
else to think about while you’re taxiing your plane. in a loud voice. Get out there, get your plane, and
You should avoid taxiing in such a way that some¬ get back as fast as you can. Don’t run, but walk
one else with an active transmitter in their hands quickly. Don’t try to restart the engine or check out
comes between you and the plane. Picture a line of the problem until you’re out of the way.
pilots on the flight line, maybe four of them spaced As you leave the runway, announce “All clear!”
20 feet apart up and down the line. You should never The other pilots will know you’re out of the way and
taxi your plane in front of them, close in. If any of they can get back to normal operations.
those transmitters is poorly tuned and splattering,
it could make your receiver twitch as it gets closer Flying Courteously
to the bad transmitter. If it twitches your throttle
As you’re flying, you’ll find that there are some
channel, the plane can get away from you.
other basic rules to follow. Like the rest, they’re
based on the Golden Rule: Treat the other pilots as
Takeoff Procedure
you would want them to treat you.
Stay close to your plane as you taxi out to the You’re concentrating on your airplane. You can’t
flight line. Stop short of the runway and check out take the time to watch out for everyone else.
the other folks in the air. Anyone who is on final ap¬ There’s a lot of sky up there, and planes are rela¬
proach to land has absolute right of way. Don’t at¬ tively small. But midair collisions happen. The best
tempt to taxi out and take off before they get in. way to avoid midairs is to fly conservatively. Save
The pilot is concentrating on his airplane, setting up your hot-dog maneuvers for when you've got the
his approach, and following it through. Extend to him field to yourself or there’s only one other pilot up.
the same courtesy you want extended to you. If your engine quits, announce “Dead stick!”
With your plane idling at the side of the runway, right away. The other pilots will give you the right
take up your position on the flight line. Check a final of way. If you are on final approach and someone
time to make sure no one is on approach. If you’re calls “Dead stick,” add throttle and go around. If
not sure, ask. Now announce that you are taking off. you’ve just landed or are getting ready to take off,
Taxi out and turn into the wind. You’re ready to go. taxi out of the way. The pilot with the dead stick
plane will be concentrating completely on his plane.
“On the Field!” His options are limited, since his plane will lose alti¬
The runway is no place to stand at any time. tude fast if he makes a sharp turn. Don’t get in his
Fliers can’t keep one eye on their plane and the way.

99
 When you’re ready to land, announce your in¬ ble, make sure the other pilots know it! If your plane
tention. “Coming in!” or “On final!” are the com¬ is behaving in an unpredictable manner, for what¬
mon expressions. This gives you priority for landing, ever reason, request the right of way by announc¬
except in the event of a dead stick or similar ing, “I’m having trouble! ’ ’ Reduce your throttle and
emergency. land right away. The place to troubleshoot is on the
Speaking of emergencies, if you are having trou¬ ground, not in the air.

100
 Chapter 7

Two-Stroke Engines

M ost of the engines used in model aircraft

are two-strokes. They have become popular
it’s started, the first thing you do is move around
behind it. Of course, this means that your plane is
because they’re easy to handle, reliable, and inex¬ being held in place, either by a friend (best) or a se¬
pensive. Two-stroke engines do best at higher rpm, cure tiedown mechanism. If it makes you feel more
and generally deliver more usable power than four- comfortable, it’s allowable to have your left hand
strokes of the same displacement. Since they have around the fuselage of the airplane holding it in place
fewer parts than four-strokes, they’re easier to de¬ while you start the engine. But remember, that arm
sign and manufacture. With minimal care, they’ll give is in danger! Remove it as quickly as possible. Don’t
you good service for many years. disconnect the plug connector, or diddle with the
needle valve; get your arm out of the way! Stand
ENGINE SAFETY up, walk around behind the prop, and remove the
Statistically, when someone hurts themselves glow plug connector. This is not only safer, it gives
with a model airplane, it usually involves the engine. the engine a chance to warm up. Your needle valve
Most actual injuries involve the propeller. The only adjustments will be far less tricky if you give the en¬
sure way to prevent accidents like this is to treat gine a chance to get up to operating temperature.
with great respect any running engine, no matter It’s also good exercise!
where it is or how big it is. Propellers are meant Be conscious of the prop arc. Picture the pro¬
to cut air, not fingers, but they’ll do an effective job peller on the front of the engine, level across the
of cutting fingers if you let it happen. front of the plane. Visualize a straight line drawn
The basic rule to follow is simple: never under from each propeller tip out a hundred feet or so. This
any circumstances, reach over the running prop. You line is the danger zone. Every now and then, a prop
have to be in front of the engine to start it. Once with a hairline crack you didn’t notice will throw a

101
oHhe cvMnde^hroua^nnrts !n^h T tf?.eiLfuel ™x,urethrough the hollow crankshaft, into the crankcase, and up the sides
ports Th s drawinot!l a r!<1 C ^ °r L' Movement of ,he Pist°" covers and uncovers the intake and exhaust
p ts. i ms drawing shows a Rossi .40 racing and sport engine. (Illustration courtesy MRC)

blade, or an over-rich engine will backfire and kick yourself! Be aware of everything along that line and
the prop loose. Heavy-handed application of the in front of it. Awareness is the key to safe flying.
starter can loosen the prop nut, too. Don’t let spec¬
tators stand to either side of the plane along the prop CARBURETORS
arc while the engine is running. Don’t stand there You are likely to spend a lot of time tinkering

102
with carburetors, trying to find the magical combi¬
nation of settings that will give you a first-flip start
every time. But before you start tweaking, remem¬
ber an important rule: The engine arrives from the
factory preset where the manufacturer wants it. The
carb is adjusted in a way that will make the vast
majority of that particular engine run right. It will
almost always work the way you want it, right out
of the box. If adjustment is necessary, it should be
very small amounts of it—just enough to adapt the
engine to the conditions of air pressure and humid¬
ity at your flying field, and the nitro content of your
favorite fuel.
Most (almost all) carburetors have the same ad¬
justments on them. Let’s look at these one by one.

Needle Valve
The main needle valve is the carb adjustment
you’ll spend the most time on. It meters the amount
of fuel flowing into the carburetor. The needle valve
is the main thing that determines how rich or lean
the engine will run. See Chapter 6, Flying, for field
procedures for properly adjusting your needle valve.
When we discuss troubleshooting carbs, which we
will do shortly, we’ll go into how to clean needle
New props should always be balanced. Mounting them on
valve assemblies. a High Point Balancer like this one is one of the best ways
to do it. Sand the back of the heavier blade until it doesn’t
fall to the bottom. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)
Idle Adjustment
Carburetors have some sort of adjustment to barrel will block the hole when the throttle is ad¬
allow you to control the fuel-air mixture at idling vanced.
speed. Adjustments to the idle mix should not be Adjusting the air bleed is simple and straight¬
done until the engine is broken in; see our comments forward. Turning the screw in blocks off part of the
on breaking engines in later in this chapter. The main air flowing in, making the engine idle richer. Turn¬
needle valve should always be adjusted first, since ing the screw out leans the idle mixture.
changing the main needle will affect the idle setting. This adjustment should be made a quarter turn
Get your top speed adjusted first, then go for a good at a time, no more. In practice, it is seldom neces¬
idle. sary to adjust the air bleed. In any case, don’t ad¬
There are two types of idle adjustment; most just the idle until after you’ve made a couple of
carbs have one or the other. The most common idle break-in runs on the engine.
adjustment is simply a hole in the front or back of The other type of idle adjustment is a needle
the carb body. A screw is threaded into a hole in valve, just like the one that controls the fuel mix at
the top of the carb that intersects with this hole. By high speed, but smaller. This is adjusted the same
turning the screw in, you can block off the hole. This way that the air bleed screw described above is ad¬
“air bleed” is only functional when the carb throt¬ justed. It should be moved in very small
tle barrel is in the idle position; the sides of the carb increments—no more than a quarter turn at a time.

103
 Throttle Stop
The typical throttle barrel has a groove cut in
it. A screw projects through the top of the carb body
into this groove. The throttle barrel rotates as far
as the tip of the throttle stop screw will permit it.
Tightening this screw will limit the travel of the
throttle barrel, making the engine idle at a higher
rpm and achieve a slightly lower rpm at the top end.
Conversely, loosening this screw will allow the bar¬
rel to travel slightly farther.
You almost never have to tinker with the throt¬
tle stop. If your engine is well broken-in and easy
to run, and you want to try for a lower idle, it might
be necessary to back the throttle stop out a quarter
turn to let the barrel move farther. If you want to
be able to shut the engine down by closing the throt¬
tle completely, and the engine will still run at the
lowest throttle setting, try loosening the throttle Enya engines have a reputation for lasting a long time and
stop slightly. producing plenty of power. This Enya SuperSport .40 is a
good basic sport engine. It has an air bleed-type carbure¬
Your engine may incorporate adjustments that tor with an adjustable air inlet in the front. (Photo courtesy
are slightly different from the ones I’ve described. Altech Marketing)
Read the engine's instructions carefully.
Does the engine start, increase its speed, then
Troubleshooting Carbs stop abruptly? It’s too lean. Turn the needle valve
If your engine won't run the way you want it out a quarter turn and try again. If adjusting the nee¬
to, the first place to look is the carburetor. Most dle valve doesn’t help, something else is obstruct¬
engine problems, in my experience, are solved here. ing the fuel flow to the engine. Inspect the fuel line
closely for hairline cracks that admit air. Bubbles in
the fuel line are a sure sign of this.
If your engine is lean and adjusting the needle
valve doesn't help, there may be dirt obstructing the
carb. Fuel enters the carb past the needle valve into
a small pipe called a spraybar. The spraybar has a
slit in the side that the fuel sprays from, mixes with
the incoming air, and so on into the motor. If parti¬
cles of dirt block this slit and obstruct the fuel flow,
you get lean runs.
To clear the carb, get a fuel squeeze bulb with
a length of fuel tubing attached. Suck a little fuel into
the bulb. Remove the needle valve, and fit the fuel
tubing down over the threads that held the needle
in place on the carb. Now give the bulb a hefty
If your plane is tail-heavy, the easiest way to correct it is to squeeze. This will spray fuel through the spraybar
add weight to the nose. Harry’s Heavy Hub, from Harry
Higley & Sons, puts the weight in front of the prop, where from the opposite direction at considerable pressure,
it does the most good. Sizes are available for most engines. and should dislodge any dirt particles. Invert the en¬
(Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine) gine and flush out the carb with fuel from the bulb.

104
 your needle valve is set; it should always be on the
rich side.
A big mistake that many people make is assum¬
ing that since the needle is set correctly on the
ground, it’ll be set correctly in the air! Two things
conspire to change the fuel mixture once the plane
is airborne. First of all, the plane isn’t level much
of the time; it’s turning, climbing, or diving. Gravity
affects the fuel feed. If the plane’s nose is pointing
up, the engine works harder to draw fuel from the
tank, and leans out. Secondly, when the prop is mov¬
This sport .40 engine is made by Irvine Engines in England.
Irvine engines feature carburetors with molded plastic bod¬ ing through the air, it doesn’t require as much
ies. They have a good reputation as solid, easy-running sport energy as it does when the plane is restrained on
engines. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine) the ground. This is why you hear people referring
to props * ‘unloading” in the air. The engine will at¬
Now refit the needle valve to where it was before tain a higher rpm in the air than on the ground, and
and try running the engine again. this can lead to a dangerously lean run.
You can avoid problems like this if you use fuel The simple way to avoid this is to set the en¬
filters, both in the line from the fuel tank to the car¬ gine rich. Find the rpm peak on the ground, and back
buretor and also in the tubing going into your fuel off the needle valve. Go through the procedure de¬
pump. One of the places where dirt gets into the scribed in Chapter 6, Flying, where you hold the
fuel is the fuel can, especially if you drop the cap plane with its nose in the air. If the engine doesn’t
onto the ground! lean up in this attitude, you’re safe to fly.
Check to be sure there are no air leaks in and Learn to listen to your engine while the plane
around the carburetor. Is it firmly fitted into the is in the air. If you leave it at a constant throttle set¬
crankcase housing? How about the fittings; are they ting, and tool around through a few turns, be alert
tight? I had a problem with my K&B .20, which to any change in engine speed. A sagging of rpm is
tended to go lean when the plane was in the air. a warning sign. If the engine slows down, especially
I suspected an air leak, and dismounted the carb to while maneuvering, land and richen it up two clicks
inspect it. (This is very simple on K&B engines, by or so. If you pull the throttle stick back to idle, and
the way.) I plugged the fuel intake with my finger, you hear it idle fast for a second and slow down, land
attached a squeeze bulb to the needle valve inlet as and richen it up. Remember: err on the rich side!
described above, and squeezed a little air into it. I
intended to clear any grit out of the carb jet, but I
also noticed some bubbles coming out around the
base of the fuel inlet where it screws into the cast
carb body. A moment’s work with a nut driver tight¬
ened it up, and my problem disappeared with the
bubbles.

Avoiding Lean Runs

One thing that can seriously damage your en¬
gine is running it too lean. There’s a danger zone Webra engines are popular for their high speed and pre¬
cisely adjustable carburetors. They offer a wide range of
with two-stroke engines where they will continue
sizes, and special engines for helicopters and cars. Left to
to run until they overheat, unlike four-strokes, which right: .61 side exhaust, .61 Long Stroke, and .61 Helicop¬
simply die if they’re set too lean. Be aware of where ter. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine)

105
 GLOW PLUGS gine, my rule is don't take an engine apart unless
You’ll find that glow plugs fall into two groups. there's no other choice! This applies most emphati¬
“RC” plugs have a small bar that crosses the end cally to the cylinder, piston and sleeve. No matter
of the plug, partially hiding the glow element itself. how careful you are in removing a sleeve from a cyl¬
This is sometimes called an idle bar. “Standard” inder, it isn’t going to go back in the same way. This
plugs have no such bar; the glow element is com¬ can mean that you have to break in the engine all
pletely exposed. over again (at best). I’m comfortable with remov¬
Some engines don’t require a plug with an idle ing the backplate on the back of the crankcase; this
bar. In fact, I seldom use them unless the engine’s is often useful to see if there’s any metal flashing
instructions specifically call for them. The purpose around the edges of the crankcase casting. Remov¬
of the idle bar is to protect the glow element from ing the backplate will help you determine if you have
direct sprays of fuel that will put it out. This can hap¬ a bent connecting rod or crankpin, or if the bearing
pen with certain engines at idle, where the ports that surfaces of the rod and pin are worn. If you’re hav¬
carry the fuel-air mix aim it up toward the top of the ing trouble with an engine and removing the back¬
cylinder. Carburetors are designed to provide a rich plate doesn’t reveal the problem, send it back to the
fuel mix at idle. The idle bar helps protect the glow manufacturer for service.
element when this rich mix comes in. What Can Ruin an Engine? The fuel we use
You will also hear of plugs referred to as ‘ ‘cool’ ’ is mostly alcohol, which is hygroscopic. This means
or “hot.” This refers to the fuel that the plug was that it attracts water from the atmosphere. A pud¬
designed to operate with. The higher the nitro con¬ dle of fuel in the crankcase or around the bearings
tent of the fuel, the colder the plug. Most sport fly¬ of your engine will cause rust in a distressingly short
ing plugs are warm, since most sport fliers seldom time. Furthermore, some additives put in fuel to im¬
fly with fuel containing more than 15 percent nitro. prove ignition also attract moisture.
Warm plugs have a wider tolerance to sport fuels. The best way to make sure there’s no fuel left
in your engine at the end of the day is to run it dry.
With the throttle set at idle, pull the fuel line off the
MAINTENANCE
carburetor inlet. The engine will speed up as it leans
Maintaining a modem two-stroke engine is out, and quit. Now hook your glow plug battery up
largely a matter of protecting it from things that can to the plug and flip the prop. You might get a pop
damage it. When it comes to disassembling the en¬ or two as the last of the fuel vapor is pulled into the

The new Fox .40 BB Deluxe is an outstanding sport .40 en¬

gine. It comes with muffler and a polished aluminum spin¬ The Fox Eagle .60 is recognized as one of the most power¬
ner. The new-style carburetor has separate needle valves ful .60 engines available. 1 he tuned exhaust pipe shown will
for idle and full speed adjustment. (Photo courtesy Fox add considerably to the engine’s speed, and is very quiet
Manufacturing) (Photo courtesy Fox Manufacturing)

106
cylinder. When the popping stops, remove the bat¬
tery; you’ve dried out the engine. This simple proce¬
dure will do more to make your engines live a long
time than anything else.
Castor oil is a rust inhibitor. So if you are using
a fuel with some castor oil in the mix, such as Sig,
K&B, Red Max, and others, you are less likely to
get rust. Some of these fuels also include rust inhi¬
bitors, but I have the most faith in castor oil.
What If You Have a Lean Run? Sometimes
you’ll find yourself with an overheated engine, for
any of the reasons we’ve talked about. The way you
handle it can make the difference between ruining
your engine and simply learning a lesson!
If you hear the engine leaning out in the air, land
at once. Don’t kill the engine unless you have to.
Once you have it on the ground, richen the engine
by about a quarter turn of the needle valve. Let it
cool off at idle speed. If you simply shut off an over¬ The K&B .40, one of the most widely-used engines in the
world. This classic American engine has been updated with
heated engine, it can warp. The piston ring can lose a new carburetor that is easier to adjust. It’s a fine performer
its temper, or several other nasty things could hap¬ that never seems to wear out. (Photo courtesy K&B Manufac¬
pen. The unbumed fuel and oil moving through the turing)
engine as it idles rich will cool it quickly and consis¬
There are other brands of starters available,
tently. Since most carbs are set to richen the mix¬
many of them for lower prices than the Sullivan
ture automatically, if you idle the engine and glide
starter. You could save a few bucks with some of
in for a landing, it should be safely cool by the time
these, but don’t expect them to last as long as a
you get it down.
name brand unit like the Sullivan. One other starter
I’ve used with very good success is made by Kavan
STARTERS in Germany and imported by several different
A starter is a good investment. It’ll save you < retailers. This has a relatively small motor, and a
a lot of time and grief on the flying field. Of course, planetary gear arrangement in the head to provide
as a general rule, the engine should start by simply lots of torque to the cone on the front.
flipping the prop with a chicken stick (remember: A company called Neu Kraft has released an in¬
never with your finger!). But a starter will simplify teresting new starter called a Bump Start. It looks
the whole process of starting, since it won’t be like a standard starter, but instead of an electric mo¬
necessary to prime or choke the engine. (More on tor it contains a powerful spring. Wind it backwards
this later.) a few turns, and a ratchet holds it in place. Place
The standard starters are made by Sullivan. the cone against the engine spinner and push for¬
There are several different sizes, depending on how ward hard enough to release the ratchet. The spring
large an engine they will be used for. You can also turns your engine over. It’s a very nice product,
buy different shaped cones for the front end of the capable of starting most standard motors. And you
starters, to fit starting connections on helicopters, don’t have to lug around a 12-volt battery to power
boats, and ducted fan engines. I’ve gotten along just it!
fine with the least expensive Sullivan starter, which Starter Cautions. There are several things
has handled everything from .09 to 2.40 engines for that you should be aware of when you use a starter.
me. First and foremost, if your engine is even slightly

107
 against the backplate of the engine. Metal is being
scraped off the backplate. I’ve seen backplates that
have had deep slots milled into them by this kind
of treatment. Where do you think that metal goes?
Right through the engine, scoring and scratching the
piston and cylinder liner as it goes.
You should never have to jam the starter cone
up against the engine spinner to turn the engine
over. You should be able to hold it firmly in contact
and push the starter switch to turn the engine over
easily. If it takes more, you either have a flooded
engine or a nearly flat starter battery. Check both
possibilities before trying the starter again.

FUEL
Glow fuel consists of three major components:
alcohol (methanol, to be exact), nitromethane, and
lubricant. Manufacturers also mix in small quanti¬
ties of other components: ignition aids, detergents,
rust inhibitors, and so on.
The alcohol is the major component. It reacts
catalytically with the hot platinum element in the
glow plug to keep the engine running. The
nitromethane assists this process; that’s why higher
This remarkable outboard motor system for RC boats was nitro contents improve the high-end rpm and idle
designed by K&B’s engine wizard Bill Wisniewski. Cooling
water is ducted in the front, around the cylinder head, and
performance of the engine. The oil isn’t just along
out the back. The engine exhausts into an integral muffler for the ride; without it, the engine would rapidly
that vents underwater. The whole business mounts on a pivot overheat and seize up, just as your car engine would.
for steering. (Photo courtesy K&B Manufacturing)
When you buy fuel for your sport models, you
should have two considerations in mind. The first
flooded, turning it over with a starter can damage is the amount of nitro that you need. Almost all of
it. I don’t prime or choke an engine before applying
a starter to it. I always flip the prop over a few times
by hand before applying the starter. If it starts with¬
out it, fine. If it doesn’t, I’m certain it’s not flooded.
Cranking a flooded engine with a starter can bend
the wristpin or connecting rod. You’ll wonder why
the engine just doesn’t seem to have the perfor¬
mance it once did. If your piston didn’t go all the
way to the top, you wouldn’t perform well either!
Occasionally you’ll see “experts” at the flying
field smack their starter against the engine spinner,
The new K&B .20 Sportster engine was an instant hit. The
bumping the engine to life, or they lean into it, put¬ engine has no bearings or bushings; advanced metallurgy
ting lots of pressure on the starter. I cringe when makes them unnecessary. The .20 is supremely easy to run,
I see this, because I know what’s happening inside and thanks to an advanced muffler design, is very quiet in
the air. A larger Sportster engine, the K&B .45, has just be¬
the engine. The crankshaft is being jammed up tight come available. (Photo courtesy K&B Manufacturing)

108
 in them. I like castor oil in my fuel. There are several
reasons why I don’t mind cleaning off the unburned
castor that comes out my muffler, but there are two
in particular. First, castor oil is better at carrying
away heat from the engine than any of the commonly
used synthetic lubricants. This is because castor oil
has a higher ‘ ‘flashpoint’ ’ and doesn’t bum (or bums
very little) at running temperatures. Second—and
most important—castor oil inhibits rust. Both of
these things will help your engine live a long, happy
life.
You’ll hear many different opinions about the
relative value of different brands of fuel. Here are
mine; please take them as opinions and not defini¬
tive rules. I have had very good success with K&B
and SIG fuel, and I use one or the other of these
brands to break in new engines. I know there’s
plenty of castor in the mix to help new engines run
The Royal .40 has become very popular as a sport engine
in the last few years. It’s inexpensive, and very easy to ad¬ cool and slick. For everyday flying, I use Red Max
just and run. The Royal .40 can even by used in racing and Cool Power fuels—good, inexpensive stuff. JMD
events. (Photo courtesy Model Retailer magazine) fuel is excellent for more sensitive engines; I espe¬
cially like their four-stroke mix.
the engines used in sport models today in the U.S.
When I hit the hobby shop for fuel, I read the
will run very happily on 10 to 15 percent nitro fuel.
labels carefully. If they say there’s castor oil in the
Unless you're racing, there's no need for more.
lubricant mix, I’ll try the fuel. If not, I ask others
Many engines, particularly Fox engines, will run
who are using it for their opinions. As with most of
cheerfully on 5 percent nitro fuel. Nitro is expen¬
the other things I buy, I’m suspicious of the cheapest
sive, so the smaller the nitro content, the cheaper
can on the shelf. I’d rather spend three or four ‘ ‘ex-
the fuel.
Experimentation will quickly tell you what nitro
percentage a particular engine likes. Try a tankful
of fuel on the ground. Run the engine all the way
up to full throttle. Is the needle valve adjustment
easy to find, or does a few clicks either way make
the difference between smooth running and stop¬
ping? Higher nitro content is called for if the needle
is hard to set. Now move the throttle to idle. Poor
idling is another sign that the engine wants more ni¬
tro. Finally, move the throttle from idle to wide
open. Does the engine bog down for a second be¬
fore it picks up speed? This could be a result of poor
needle valve adjustment, but if you’ve been tinker¬
ing with the needle and everything else is fine, higher
nitro content might solve this. This Como .40 is made in Italy by Super Tigre; the Como
engines are almost identical to Super Tigres. The .40 is a
The other consideration in buying sport fuel is powerhouse, and remarkably easy to start and run. Como
the lubricant. Synthetic oils are cheaper than castor engines are available from Indy RC and World Engines.
oil, and the cheaper sport fuels don't have castor (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

109
tra” bucks on a gallon of fuel than bum up a $100 break in the engine while it's mounted in the plane;
engine! you’ll probably do this on your first plane. But it’s
very inconvenient to hold onto the plane through half
TEST STANDS an hour of running. It makes a lot more sense to
You will need a test stand to run your engines have a test stand where you can quickly bolt the en¬
on before you put them in your plane. True, you can gine in place and run it without getting a backache.

An engine test stand is essential for testing and breaking in new engines. This hardwood test stand from Cari Goldberg
Models can be easily mounted to a bench or sawhorse. Aluminum test stands for larger engines are made by J’Tec and
Tatone Products. (Illustration courtesy Carl Goldberg Models)

110
 Several manufacturers sell special engine the job by machining themselves to a precise fit with
mounts for test stands. Carl Goldberg Models sells each other during the first hour or so of running.
one that’s made from hard maple, and clamps down This is the process called breaking in.
on the engine with two wing nuts. It’s good for en¬ Breaking in an engine is not a complicated proce¬
gines up to .60 size, but I want something that holds dure. First of all, read the instructions! This may
the engine more securely for engines larger than sound like an obvious point, but I keep harping on
this. A cast aluminum mount is the answer. These it because people don’t do it. If your engine has spe¬
are made by J’Tec and Tatone. One of these mounts cial requirements during break-in, the manufacturer
will hold any engine you care to put in it. will know about it and tell you.
If you have an old wooden picnic table, you could The object of breaking in is to bring your en¬
mount your test stand on one comer. I built a saw¬ gine up to operating temperature and speed, but
horse with extra-long legs, since I’m a large per¬ slowly, and without allowing the engine to overheat.
son. It’s five feet long, which is longer than it has Running the engine rich is a sure way to keep the
to be, but makes it very solid. The engine mount engine from overheating, since the unbumed fuel and
is mounted on a crosspiece at one end. Behind the oil carry away much of the heat produced by com¬
mount, on a block, is a fuel tank. The tank rests on bustion. The oil cleans, cools, and lubricates the en¬
a block to bring it up to the level of the carburetor, gine. The extra oil also has the effect of carrying
where it would be when installed in an airplane. A away metal that is machined away during the break-
piece of wire with a clevis on the end, held in place in process. This is why you’ll often see black gunk
with two staples, gives me throttle control. That’s in the exhaust of a brand-new engine; that’s metal
really all you need. powder from the final machining process as the parts
Tatone Products has come out with a new test rub together.
stand that has a built-in gauge and spring. The en¬ My usual procedure is to set up the engine on
gine mount slides in a small track, and is held back my test stand, and put on a prop one inch smaller
by the spring. You can lock it in place with a lever. in diameter than the size recommended for normal
Once your engine is running, you release the lock running conditions. This loads the engine more
and throttle the engine up to full power. The gauge lightly, simulating the higher rpm the engine will
measures the amount of thrust the engine is put¬ achieve when it “unloads” in the air. I use 10 per¬
ting out. It’s calibrated on a scale of one to ten, so cent nitro fuel for break-in, since it’s cheap and read¬
instead of getting foot-pounds of thrust out of it, you ily available. I always use a fuel with castor oil in
use it to make comparisons. You can test different the lubricant mix, such as SIG or K&B. Fox Super
props on the same engine and see for yourself how Fuel has more castor oil than any other commercial
much static thrust they produce. This is an excel¬ blend. Castor oil has much better heat transfer
lent way to get a feel for the correct size prop that properties than other lubricants found in model fuel.
a particular engine will require. I set the needle valve where the instructions say
for the first start. This can be anywhere from 2Vi
BREAKING-IN TWO-STROKE ENGINES to 4 turns out from the fully closed position. I choke
No new engine is going to develop its full power the engine, advancing the throttle to full open and
or its smoothest idle right out of the box. An en¬ hold my finger over the carb inlet until I can see that
gine’s running characteristics are heavily dependent fuel has been drawn all the way into the carb. After
on the fit of several parts, most of which are in metal- choking, I pull the prop through a few more times.
to-metal contact. The most obvious example of this This helps to vaporize the fuel that’s in the crank¬
is the fit between the sides of the piston and the walls case, and assures me that I haven’t got a flooded
of the cylinder or liner. That engine you just took engine. Now I reduce the throttle to half or a little
out of the box was assembled from parts that were above. Finally, I connect the glow plug battery and
machined to very close tolerances. They will finish pull the prop through again. When the battery is con-

111
nected to the plug, I hold the prop firmly between In practical terms, there isn’t much difference
my thumb and forefinger; I never flip it through with between the two. Lapped engines take longer to
my finger. If the charge of fuel and air in the cylin¬ break in, since there’s considerably more surface
der is just right, I’ll feel a bump as the charge ig¬ area that has to wear to fit. Once thoroughly bro¬
nites. If that bump is there, I know everything’s ken in, lapped engines tend to last forever. But
ready, and I flip the prop with my chicken stick. there’s no real reason to prefer one kind over the
other.
AAC OR ABC?
ENGINE MAINTENANCE
You will see different engines described as be¬
ing “ABC” or “AAC.” This refers to the cylinder The most important maintenance you can do on
and piston construction of the engine. ABC means any engine is to run it dry at the end of a day’s fly¬
that the piston is aluminum, and it runs in a brass ing. We’ve discussed this earlier; all you have to do
cylinder liner that is chromed on its inner surface. is remove or pinch off the fuel line and let the en¬
AAC means that the piston is aluminum, the cyl¬ gine run until it stops. Then connect your glow plug
inder is aluminum, and the cylinder wall is chromed. battery and flip the prop until the engine doesn’t pop.
Most recently designed sport engines are AAC. This makes sure that there’s no fuel left in the en¬
There is little practical difference between the gine; since the fuel attracts mositure from the air,
two. ABC engines tend to produce a bit more power. leftover fuel will rust your engine’s innards.
The cylinders are also designed so that the cylinder If the plane is going to be stored for any length
is just slightly narrower at the head than it is at the of time such as over the winter, I’ll put a few drops
bottom. This improves compression, because the of oil into the carburetor and flip the prop to distrib¬
liner expands as the engine warms up and would ute it through the crankcase. Then I’ll remove the
move away from the piston if it wasn’t tapered like plug, inject a few more drops into the cylinder
this. It means that ABC engines need to be at or through the plug hole, and turn the engine over some
near their normal operating temperature while run¬ more.
ning, so the brass liner will be expanded to the The oil I use for this is Marvel Mystery Oil, the
proper shape. So, while breaking in an ABC engine, penetrating kind. Pacer Technology sells After Run
don’t run it slobbering rich; a half turn from the Oil that works very well for the purpose too; in fact,
highest speed setting is adequate for the first 30 it penetrates a little better. You could use 3-in-l oil,
minutes of running. but it tends to dry out and leave gunk inside the en¬
AAC engines are not as critical. Since the pis¬ gine. FHS Supply, the Red Max Fuel people, also
ton and cylinder are both made of the same mate¬ make an after run oil that’s very good for this.
rial, they both expand at the same rate. Break these When you hang up the plane for the winter,
engines in as rich as they’ll run for the first five don’t hang it nose-down. Any unbumed fuel in the
minutes of running, then lean them out gradually muffler will run back down into the engine and fi¬
over 30 minutes as we’ve described earlier. nally wind up in the front bearings. Hang it with the
nose pointing up, or horizontally.
LAPPED OR RINGED?
You will also see some engines referred to as ENGINE REPAIR
“lapped” rather than “ringed.” This refers to the Unless you’re a machinist, I suggest leaving ma¬
way the piston is fitted to the cylinder or cylinder jor engine repairs to experts. The most I ever do
liner. A ringed engine has piston rings that form a to an engine is remove the backplate and inspect it
seal between the piston and the cylinder wall. A for metal flak or grit. I flush out the crankcase with
lapped engine has a piston that has been honed or kerosene, and oil the bearings.
lapped to a near-perfect fit with the cylinder. Removing the backplate isn’t going to change

112
any of the bearing surfaces or tolerances of the en¬ DIESELS
gine. Removing the head is relatively safe, as long For some reason, Diesel engines have never
as you take care to tighten it back down evenly. been as popular in this country as they have been
Tightening one screw all the way down before the in Europe. F11 never figure it out..I love ’em. The
others can distort the head. I almost never remove fuel is no more expensive than glow fuel (though it
the piston or cylinder liner. It’s just too difficult to is smellier); the engines don’t cost any more,
get them back in the way they were. A well-broken- they’re perfectly easy to start, and you don’t have
in engine will have a cylinder-to-piston fit that is per¬ to lug a battery around for the glow plug ... or glow
fect down to the crystalline structure of the metal. plugs, for that matter.
You can’t hope to duplicate that fit again if you re¬ I will admit that Diesels put out a lot of
move the piston. exhaust—smoky, oily, pungent exhaust at that. But
If you suspect that one of the bearings in your with a little care and planning, the exhaust can be
engine is bad, or that the connecting rod or wrist ducted away from the plane, and you even get a muf¬
pin is deformed, send the engine back to the fling effect from the exhaust pipe as a bonus.
manufacturer for service. They will be able to dis¬ Diesels will swing a larger prop than a glow en¬
cover and fix the problem a lot faster than you will, gine of the same displacement. They also accept a
and they have the parts handy. much wider range of props than two-stroke glow en-

This tiny Diesel was made by a Czechoslovakian machinist named Pfeffer. It’s a gem: .036 displacement, with the tiniest
RC carburetor I’ve ever seen. A few of these are still available from Carlson Engine Imports. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

113
gines. My PAW .29 Diesel runs best on a 12-6 (a before going over compression, you’re close to the
glow engine of the same size would be using a 9-6), point of ignition; keep flipping. If you’ve gotten no
but will handle props from 9-4 to 14-5! The secret action at all, turn the compression screw in a quar¬
is the compression adjustment, which effectively ter turn and flip some more. Turn the screw in until
gives you a method of regulating the ignition point. the engine starts to pop. It will, sooner or later.
Diesels idle better; there’s no hot glow plug to Once you have the engine popping, it shouldn’t
cool off when the rpm gets too low. The above- take more than three or four flips to get it running.
mentioned PAW .29 will idle that 12-6 reliably at If it’s still hesitant to light off, go in one-eighth turn
1500 rpm. They’re generally quieter than the cor¬ on the compression screw.
responding two-stroke glow engines. With these vir¬ Once the engine starts to run, be ready to back
tues, why haven’t they caught on? out the compression screw at least a half a turn. As
Maybe it’s because people are intimidated at the engine warms up, you require less compression
having to set the compression screw in the head of for smooth running.
the engine as well as the needle valve on the intake. You should now be getting brief rich runs when
This can be tricky at first, but once you find the right you flip the prop. Go in on the needle valve a quar¬
setting you’ll seldom touch the compression lever ter turn at a time until the engine keeps running.
again. Let me describe the technique I use on a At this point, a little tinkering with the compression
Diesel engine to find the right setting. and needle will give you consistent runs.
To start it up again, choke and flip. It may be
Starting Diesels necessary to turn the compression screw in a quar¬
ter turn when starting cold, especially on a chilly day.
I start out with a needle setting that I know is
Back off the screw when the engine starts running.
rich, three to four full turns open. If the engine starts
From here on, only minor adjustments of the com¬
with the needle too rich, it’ll blubber for a while and
pression screw will be necessary.
give me a chance to lean it out. Then I choke the \

engine until it’s almost flooded. This way I’m sure

I’m not cranking a dry engine. You can tell when Breaking-In Diesels
you’ve overdone it and flooded the engine when you Diesel engines require the same kind of break-
can barely turn the prop over compression. When in that regular two-strokes do. Similar rules apply.
that happens, flip the prop back and forth (without An engine with piston rings will break in more quickly
pulling it all the way through) until you have forced than one with a piston that is lapped (fitted) directly
enough raw fuel out through the ports to allow you to the cylinder.
to flip it over. Don’t force it through compression! I like to give new Diesels a good hour of bench
Diesel engines are beefier than glow engines, but running for break-in. It isn’t necessary, but it helps
you can still bend their crank pins. familiarize me with the engine. I can play with differ¬
Once you have the engine wet, start flipping the ent combinations of needle valve positions, compres¬
prop. I never use an electric starter on a Diesel. sion settings, and props. By the time the engine goes
With the needle valve open wide, spinning the en¬ in a plane, I know just how to make it behave.
gine with an electric starter will draw more fuel in
and can cause a hydraulic lock. Hand-flipping with
a chicken stick will allow you to feel when the en¬ Diesel Fuel
gine is getting ready to start. You can flip it with You can buy Diesel fuel from several different
your finger, but use a finger protector such as the sources, or you can make your own. I’ve done both,
thick rubber one sold by Ace RC. Never flip any en¬ but I prefer to buy it; it’s a lot less trouble, and
gine with an unprotected finger! cheaper in the long run. To mix your own fuel, you
Flip it a few times to vaporize the fuel in the need high-grade kerosene, castor oil, and ether.
engine. If you hear a pop, or the prop stops abruptly Kerosene is readily available; I buy it by the gallon

114
 for the little heater in my workshop. Castor oil is gine Imports. Both have given me very fast service
a little more difficult, but not much; SIG sells it by and friendly advice when I had questions.
the gallon, and you can often get it at medical sup¬ Eric Clutton specializes in the P.A.W. line of
ply houses or drugstores. The ether is the problem. Diesels from England. These are some of the most
In some states you can’t buy it over the counter popular Diesels in Europe, and I’ve never seen any¬
without a prescription, because of its well-known thing that argues with that reputation.
anaesthetic qualities. Carlson imports P.A.W., and also has several
I’ve bought Diesel fuel from FHS Supply other lines of interesting engines. They have the
(makers of Red Max glow fuels) and Davis Diesel splendid reproduction Taplin Twin, an in-line twin
Development. Red Max diesel is available from cylinder Diesel. Carlson imports the Aurora diesels,
stock, or on a custom order basis. If you’re running and is a source for reproductions of the famous old
small Diesels under .09 size, ask for more ether in Mills Diesels. When you send a buck to Carlson for
the fuel mix to aid ignition. I buy fuel from FHS in his catalog, you’ll get a list of rare and limited-supply
gallons, but they very kindly package it in quart cans engines that they have handy. At this writing, they
for me. This means I only have to open it as I need still have some of the tiny .036 Pfeffer Specials for
it. Since the ether evaporates very rapidly, this is sale.
a big advantage. Finally, Red Max Diesel fuel costs
the same as their standard 10 percent nitro glow
Diesetizing Glow Engines
fuel.
Davis Diesel’s fuel is excellent. They are Diesel Most Diesel fliers in the U.S. are doing it with
experts, and are responsible more than anyone else glow engines that have been converted to Diesel.
for championing the Diesel cause in America. Davis Conversion kits are made by Davis Diesel Develop¬
fuel is available in two grades, one for engines ment; as of now, there are over 120 different en¬
smaller than .09 size, and one for larger engines. gines, and more are continually being developed.
They will also provide special fuel for other applica¬ Dieselizing a glow engine will give you all the vir¬
tions. Davis sells a Diesel Concentrate, which you tues of Diesel power with very little effort. Davis
simply add to kerosene or lamp oil to get excellent offers conversions for engines from the ubiquitous
fuel. Cox .049 to the big Tartan and Supertigre 3000 en¬
Eric Clutton, one of the importers of the popu¬ gines. A dollar will bring you the current list and a
lar P.A.W. Diesels, is now selling P.A.W.’s fuel in lot of other good info besides.
A conversion kit consists of a new head for the
the U.S. Again, two grades are available, one for
small engines and one for larger engines. Fuel com¬ engine cylinder. You remove the bolts holding on the
ing straight from the engine manufacturer is hard to glow head, being careful not to displace the gasket,
beat. and bolt on the Diesel head. Now you replace all of
your fuel tubing in the plane with tubing that will
stand up to Diesel fuel. Ordinary glow fuel line will
Where to Buy Diesels swell up and relax when subjected to Diesel fuel.
Diesel engines can be hard to find. Not many You may also have to replace the stopper in the fuel
hobby shops have them sitting around. Some stores tank; DuBro sells replacement stoppers for gaso¬
will carry Davis Diesel’s special replacement heads line and Diesel fuel.
for standard two-stroke engines to convert them to That’s all there is to it! The conversion head
Diesels. More about these later. But if you want a comes from the factory properly set for starting. Put
pure Diesel engine, you’ll probably have to look for on an appropriate prop, and start the engine the
mail order sources. Model magazine ads are the best same way you would start any Diesel. The Davis
place to start looking. instructions go into different starting methods in de¬
I’ve bought Diesels from two small importers tail; read them first.
who specialize in them: Eric Clutton and Carlson En¬ You’ll get substantially more usable power from

115
 This Cox .049 engine has been
converted to run on Diesel fuel.
The knurled knob on top of the
head adjusts the compression.
Dieselized engines can turn
much bigger props. Davis Diesel
Development sells the modifica¬
tion kit. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

a Dieselized engine. Planes that flew with a glow .40 a cowl, consider Dieselizing it. Finally, Dieselized
can fly with a .25 or .30 Diesel. Diesels run much engines run much quieter. You’ll enjoy the
cooler than glow engines, so if your engine is inside difference!

116
 Chapter 8

Four-Stroke Engines

F our-stroke engines were a curiosity a few

short years ago. Now they’re all over the place.
for a two-stroke .60, consider a four-stroke .80 or
.90. Kits intended for two-stroke .40 engines can
I’ve heard it said that their popularity is due to their be powered by four-stroke .60s. As with any general
sound, which is more like the rumble of a full-size rule like this, it depends on the plane; a light plane,
aero engine than the whine of a two-stroke. Others or one with plenty of wing, can use a smaller en¬
say that they’re the greatest for scale models, be¬ gine. Most of the kits we fly today are overpowered.
cause they swing bigger props than two-strokes. I
personally think that the extra mechanical parts ap¬
PROPS
peal to those of us who love miniature machinery.
For whatever reason, four-strokes are here to Four-stroke engines are capable of turning
stay. There are kits, fuels, engine mounts, and muf¬ larger, deeper-pitched propellers than two-strokes.
This is because they develop their maximum us¬
flers especially for them. New ones are being in¬
troduced all the time, and old ones are upgraded. able power at lower rpm than two-strokes. The
practical upshot of this is that, generally, a four-
Four-strokes have added a new dimension of plea¬
stroke will give you a slower-flying plane with a
sure to our sport.
larger range of speeds.
You can start experimenting with the propeller
RELATIVE POWER you use for your four-stroke by trying a prop one
Four-strokes deliver less power for their size size larger. Consult the engine instructions, and find
than two-strokes. This is less true than it was when the recommended rpm range. Mount the prop, start
four-strokes were new. For the purposes of kit the engine, and tune the needle valve for peak per¬
selection, to substitute a four-stroke engine for a formance as described later in this chapter. Now de¬
two-stroke, go up one size. If the kit is designed termine the maximum rpm with a tachometer. Go

117
to idle, and make a note of how low an idle rpm you shaft in place of the prop nut that came with the en¬
can get with no danger of the engine flaming out. gine, but even this is seldom necessary. I’ve had
Repeat this procedure with a prop an inch bigger, my share of props loosened on starting (or trying
or an inch deeper in pitch. Now fly the plane with to start) a four-stroke engine, and it was always be¬
both props, looking for variations in performance. cause the engine was set wrong.
How fast does it get off the ground? Is the vertical Think about it: Backfiring takes place because
performance affected? How about inverted flight? the fuel ignites too soon, while the piston is still on
When you slow down for landing, does the plane sink its way up. If the fuel mixture was correct, this
or float differently? This is the kind of tinkering that wouldn’t happen.
will allow you to dial in your plane to where you like What do you do if your engine tends to kick its
it. As you try this, you may even begin to notice prop loose? Is it happening when you flip the prop
differences between the brands of the same size to start it? The engine is probably flooded; don’t
prop. choke it as much next time, or use an electric starter
Larger props have another beneficial effect. without priming or choking. Does it run for a while,
Since the large prop acts as a flywheel, a larger prop and then stop and kick the prop loose? It’s too lean;
will almost always allow the engine to idle at a lower the excessive heat buildup is causing pre-ignition.
rpm. Heavier props have a similar effect. The spe¬ Does it run fine at full throttle, but slow down and
cial four-stroke props made by Master Airscrew and kick loose when you set the throttle to idle? Your
Dynathrust out of glass-reinforced plastic will show idle is too lean; richen the idle adjustment.
this effect. I fitted a Dynathrust 14-6 prop to my
Saito .90, and was immediately able to idle it down ENGINE MOUNTS
another 300 rpm. It’ll tick over at 2200 rpm with
Four-stroke engines are longer than two-
no risk of dying.
strokes, because of the extra length of the crank¬
shaft to hold the gears that drive the valves. Also,
PROP KICKING the carburetor is usually mounted out on the back
Some four-strokes have gotten a reputation for of the engine, to bring it in line with the fuel tank.
suddenly kicking the prop loose. This is almost al All this adds up to the need for a special engine
ways a result of running the engine too lean. mount.
Remember, you can’t tune a four-stroke engine by There are two types of engine mounts you will
ear the way you can a two-stroke. Use a tachome¬ find in your hobby shop. One is made of molded ny¬
ter, and look for the maximum rpm. When you find lon, reinforced with glass fibers. Nylon engine
it, back off the needle valve a quarter turn at least. mounts are strong, light, and flexible. They’re very
Since the engine will lean out in the air, you must good for most purposes. When you buy one, make
set it rich on the ground. sure the arms fit your engine without having to be
Some fliers have recommended drilling and pin¬ spread apart. Take your engine with you to the store
ning props used on some of the larger four-strokes. and check.
To do this, two pins are inserted in the prop drive The other type of engine mount is cast alumi¬
washer, immediately behind the prop hub. Two num. These are heavier and more expensive than
holes are drilled into the prop hub, and when the the nylon type, but they have several advantages.
prop is put on the shaft, the pins go into the holes. They are very rigid and will hold the engine tightly.
If the engine kicks backward, the prop can’t spin on They are drilled and tapped for your particular en¬
the hub and loosen the prop nut. gine, and most come with bolts that fit the mount¬
I don’t recommend this practice. Weakening the ing holes. I’ve used quite a few aluminum engine
prop hub by drilling holes in it doesn’t seem like a mounts made by J’Tec and have been very satisfied
good idea to me. If an engine of mine has a tendency with them. Tatone Products mounts are also ex¬
to loosen the prop, I might install a locknut on the cellent.

118
 Edson Enterprises makes a unique series of cast glowing brightly. This is what does the actual work
aluminum engine mounts. They are each designed of igniting the fuel. In four-stroke engines this is
to accept a wide range of engines without being re¬ more difficult, since ignition only occurs every other
moved from the firewall. The arms of the mount fit time the piston reaches the top of the cylinder. So
in slots and are bolted in place. The mounting bolts the engine manufacturer will often recommend a
fit in slots in the arms so they can accommodate special glow plug that is better at retaining heat than
different lengths of engines. It’s a handy setup. the standard two-stroke plug.
O.S. was the first company to come out with
MUFFLERS a special four-stroke plug. While Saito and Enya en¬
gines would run fine with a standard plug, the O.S.
Because four-stroke engines produce a lower
four-strokes really liked their special plug. And the
exhaust note than two-strokes, mufflers aren’t an
O.S. plugs would markedly improve the other
automatic requirement. However, as four-strokes
brands. The only drawback was the the O.S. four-
became bigger and more powerful, they also got
stroke plugs were quite expensive—as much as $5
louder. Now most four-strokes either come with a
apiece.
muffler or have one available as an option.
Now that four-strokes are more popular, spe¬
I strongly recommend using the muffler if one
cial plugs are available for them that are a lot
is available for your engine. You can never be too
cheaper. The O.S. four-stroke plugs have come
quiet, after all. The muffler will often give you an
down in price. Sonic-Tronics has an excellent line
outlet to pressurize your fuel tank as a bonus. This
of four-stroke plugs for all common brands. And Fox
will make it easier to find a good needle setting.
has just come out with a super plug that will improve
the idle of any engine you use it in, especially a four-
GLOW PLUGS stroke. I bought a bucketful of the new Fox plugs
Glow engines work on the principle that the en¬ when they came out, and I’m very pleased with the
gine retains enough heat to keep the plug element results.

The Super Silencer is made by Irvine Engines; there are sizes available to fit many common engines. It does an excellent
job of quieting the engine, and also provides a tuning effect that noticeably increases top-end rpm. (Photo courtesy Model
Retailer magazine)

119
ADJUSTING THE CARBURETOR engine runs leaner. When it starts to drop off, the
setting is too lean. As soon as you see it drop, back
Most carburetors on four-stroke engines are
the needle valve out a quarter turn. Be patient, and
identical to the ones on two-stroke engines—at least
give the engine a chance to run for a few seconds
on the outside. They are different on the inside, but
the adjustments that we see are “standard/' at each needle setting.
Now that you have the needle set a quarter turn
There'll be a needle valve for high end adjustment,
out from where the engine starts to lose rpm, watch
perhaps another for idle adjustment. A throttle bar¬
the tachometer and see if the engine is running
rel stop screw will adjust the travel of the barrel.
smoothly. Make small adjustments to the needle un¬
These almost never need adjustment, unless the
til you reach a point where the engine maintains rpm.
throttle doesn’t close far enough to provide a good
Now start to back the needle valve out toward the
idle. If there’s no idle needle, there will be an idle
rich side. When the rpm drops noticeably, turn the
adjustment of some sort, usually an air bleed screw.
needle in two or three clicks—no more—until the
rpm stabilizes. You should now be at a needle set¬
Main Needle Valve ting that is slightly on the rich side, but still gives
The adjustment you’ll spend the most time you a stable high rpm. Your final setting needs to
working on is the high-end needle valve. This meters be rich, because engines always lean out in the air.
the amount of fuel flowing through the carburetor Now perform the famous “point the nose up’’
at speeds above idle. You can use a procedure for test. Have a friend hold your transmitter, and ran
setting this valve that is very similar to the way you the engine up to full throttle. With a firm grip on the
would set the needle on a two-stroke engine, but airplane (beware of the oily exhaust!), pick the plane
there is one significant difference. up and aim the nose within 20 degrees of the verti¬
With a two-stroke engine, you can roughly ad¬ cal. This simulates the attitude the plane will be in
just the needle valve by watching the color of the right after takeoff when you’re climbing out. The en¬
exhaust, or by listening for the highest rpm. Four- gine has to draw fuel uphill and naturally leans out.
stroke engines can’t be set that way. For one thing, Does the engine sag? It’s too lean. Put it carefully
there will be a certain amount of smoke coming from on the ground and readjust the needle. If the en¬
the exhaust of a typical four-stroke, even after its gine holds its rpm through at least 30 seconds (count
needle valve is set for peak rpm. Additionally, the to 30 slowly) of pointing in the air, you can be confi¬
peak rpm on the ground will almost certainly be dent that it won’t quit while you’re climbing out af¬
much too lean once the engine gets into the air. ter you take off.
So it’s important to use a tachometer to set the
needle on your four-stroke. I only use photocell type
tachometers, which are pointed at the turning blades Idle Adjustment
to read the rpm. I don’t believe that the type of You should seldom have to tinker with the idle
tachometer that has to be held against the spinner adjustment of an engine. But if you have broken the
or prop hub to get a reading is as safe as the pho¬ engine in properly and set the main needle valve for
tocell type. a reliable high end, you might find that the engine
To set your needle valve, start with a setting idles too fast. Or you might discover that the en¬
that is too rich, with the needle turned out at least gine slows down too much when the throttle is
half a turn farther than what sounds like the peak closed and is in danger of stopping. Those are clues
rpm. Open the throttle wide and let the engine run that you need to tinker with the idle adjustment.
at full speed. Note the rpm reading. Now slowly turn Your engine will have an idle adjustment of one
the needle valve in, no more than a quarter turn at of two types: either an air bleed, or a needle valve.
a time, and watch the rpm. It will increase as the Air bleed adjustments are simple. An air bleed

120
consists of a hole drilled into the carburetor, usually came with your engine for specifics.
at the back, that lets air in when the carb barrel is
at the idle position. There is a screw that can be BREAKING-IN FOUR-STROKE ENGINES
turned in to close off this hole; the screw is usually
Any new engine needs to be broken in to allow
mounted on the top of the carb body. Turning this
the moving parts to wear into a good fit with each
screw in reduces the amount of air coming in, and
other. This is particularly important for the piston
richens the mixture; turning it out has the opposite
and cylinder; see Chapter 7 on two-stroke engines
effect.
for more discussion of this.
To adjust an air bleed, first sight down the hole
Careful breaking-in is more important with a
and see where it is set. I’ve made the embarrass¬
four-stroke engine than with a two-stroke. This is
ing mistake of tinkering with an air bleed screw with¬
principally because there are a lot more moving parts
out realizing that it was backed out so far that the
in four-stroke engines. Fortunately, it’s an easy
bleed hole was wide open. You don’t get much ad¬
procedure. And it gives you a very good chance to
justment that way!
tinker with the engine, feel out how it performs and
With the engine running at idle, check the
what it’ll do, and how to adjust it.
tachometer reading. Most four-stroke engines I’ve
run will idle between 2000 and 3000 rpm. They can
sometimes be coaxed lower, but you must be care¬ First Start
ful to set the idle where the engine will show no ten¬ The first thing you should do with a new engine
dency to quit. is thoroughly read the instructions. All engines vary,
Adjust the air bleed screw a quarter turn at a and you can be assured that the engineers who de¬
time, giving the engine at least 20 seconds between signed the engine know best how to make it per¬
changes to adjust to the new setting. Tune for reli¬ form! Even if you already own one of the engines,
able idle, and feel out how rich the idle can be set. check the instructions to see if any changes have
To test the setting, rapidly advance the throttle to been made to the engine. The manufacturers often
full. If the engine bogs down and gasps for a second add to the instructions, based on the advice gained
before hitting smooth rpm at high throttle, the idle from having production examples of the engine in
is probably set too rich. use.
Sometimes you may find that the best idle set¬ When I start a four-stroke engine for the first
ting that you can achieve still lets the engine sag out time, I like to be sure I’m working from the rich end
when you advance the throttle. If this happens, re¬ of the needle setting. I also like to be sure that I
tune the main needle valve as described above. You have plenty of fuel in the engine, even if this means
may find that the idle adjustment has affected the starting out flooded. This way, I avoid cranking a
setting of the main needle. dry engine and I learn how well the engine draws
A carburetor that has an idle needle is adjusted fuel. But I always start out hand-flipping an engine,
in a very similar way to the air bleed type. The idle and never use an electric starter at first. Applying
needle allows a much finer adjustment of idle speed, an electric starter to a flooded engine can do seri¬
and is a little more versatile than an air bleed ad¬ ous damage! If it becomes necessary to use an elec¬
justment. Use your tachometer, and set the needle tric starter, I always disconnect the fuel line,
slightly to the rich side of a reliable idle. unscrew the glow plug, put a cloth over the plug
Once you’ve got an idle setting you like, always hole, and spin the engine with the starter to be cer¬
check and reset the high end needle valve! On many tain it isn’t flooded.
engines, these two controls have a large effect on Once I have the engine mounted in my test
each other. You will notice this more on engines with stand, the throttle attached to the linkage, and the
two needle valves. Consult the instructions that recommended prop fitted, I turn the needle valve

121
out three full turns. Then, with the throttle wide of the moving parts. Since the engine is running so
open, I choke the carburetor, either covering the rich, there’s plenty of unbumed oil to move all this
air inlet with my finger or using a choke valve if the powder out of the engine. At the end of this run,
engine has one. Two or three flips, no more, should let the engine cool down for 15 minutes or so. Then
bring plenty of fuel into the carburetor and the cyl¬ crank it up and run it for another 15 minutes with
inder. I then open the air inlet and pull the prop the needle valve leaned out half a turn.
through carefully, sensing the amount of resistance Now you have half an hour of rich, cool running
as it goes through the compression stroke. If the on your engine. It should be ready for you to find
engine is flooded (yes, it’s possible to flood it with the right needle valve setting. Using your tachome¬
two or three flips!), it might not move over com¬ ter, go in on the needle until you start to see a loss
pression at all. Don’t force it! Flip the prop back¬ of rpm. As soon as the rpm sags, back off the nee¬
wards and forwards against the resistance, through dle half a turn. Let the engine run at this setting for
the intake and exhaust cycles. The valves will open another 10 minutes. You can now consider the en¬
and breathe more air into the cylinder head, even¬ gine ready to be installed in a plane.
tually clearing the raw fuel out of the combustion As you fly this new engine, remember that it
chamber. will be breaking in and improving over the next few
Now connect the battery to the plug. Close the flights. Make sure it’s running rich when you fly it.
throttle to idle, and open it to about one-third. Hold¬ After the first five or six flights, you can peak the
ing the prop blade firmly (in your fist is best), pull needle valve as described earlier.
it through compression. You should feel a bump as
the fuel mixture ignites. That bump means the en¬ Adjusting Valves
gine is ready to start. Glance at your battery con¬ When four-stroke engines first came on the
nector, fuel lines, and throttle linkage to make sure scene, people were continually asking about adjust¬
everything is ready for the engine to start. Then put ing the valves. I guess that since poppet valves were
your chicken stick against the prop blade, turn it until only familiar to folks from their car engines, they
it’s against compression, and flip it smartly. thought that the same kind of maintenance would be
Chances are the engine will light right off. More needed. Actually, they were quite right: Poor valve
likely, it’ll pop once. Keep flipping until the engine adjustment can cause exactly the same problems in
starts, or is clearly dry. Then disconnect the bat¬ a model four-stroke as in a car engine. But the valves
tery and choke the engine again. in the model engine have not been a source of trou¬
If the engine starts, surges to high rpm, and ble in practice.
stops abruptly, you’re too lean. On the other hand, All model four-stroke engines (except the ones
if it starts and blubbers, it’s too rich. It will run at with rotary valves, such as the Webra and HP en¬
a very rich setting, and that’s where you want it at gines) have valve assemblies that can be easily ad¬
this point. justed. The adjustments are on the rocker arms,
Once you have the engine running, as rich as above the valve pushrods. On Enya engines and
it’ll continue to run, remove the glow plug connec¬ some OS engines, the pushrods are in the back; on
tor and slowly advance the throttle to full open. If Saito engines, they’re in front. On all but the Saito
the engine dies when the connector is removed, it’s .30, the pushrods run in protective tubes and have
still too rich. When you have it running rich and wide housings covering the rocker arms. They’re not hard
open, tinker with the needle to make sure you have to find!
it just as rich as it will run. Then let it run just like Do They Need Adjusting? Before you adjust
that for 15 minutes. the valves on your four-stroke, ask yourself if it
During this run, you will probably notice some really needs it. Have you noticed a marked falloff
black gook oozing out around the exhaust pipe. in rpm? Has the engine been knocking, backfiring,
That’s aluminum powder, caused by the wearing in or kicking its prop off? Are you sure it’s not doing

122
this because the main needle valve is set too lean? careful you are, they always slip.
Ordinarily, the only reason to adjust the valves Once the nut is loosened, slip the feeler gauge
is wear on the pushrods, which results in less valve into the gap; if it won’t go in, turn the screw out
opening because the rods are shorter. This will show until it does. Adjust the screw until the feeler gauge
up on some engines after the first hour of running, slides smoothly in and out, without binding and with¬
and is the last indication that the engine is completely out moving vertically. Now, holding the screw where
broken in. These pushrods are specially hardened. you want it with the screwdriver, tighten the nut.
They may wear slightly at first, but will seldom con¬ Check the gap again and tinker with the adjustment
tinue to do so. Check the engine instructions to see if necessary. Now do the other one.
when they recommend checking the valves. You should have to perform this operation
Performing the Adjustment. To adjust the rarely. I check the valves once a year on four-stroke
valves, remove the valve covers and the glow plug. engines I use a lot. They seldom need adjustment.
Turn the engine over until the piston is at top dead If you have one of the very oldest four-strokes, such
center. Both valves will be closed, and there will be as the original O.S. 60, you should check the valves
a gap between the tops of the pushrods and the bear¬ a little more often. Modem engines all have hard¬
ing surfaces of the rocker arms. This gap is what ened pushrods.
you adjust.
Many four-stroke engines come with a feeler FOUR-STROKE MAINTENANCE
gauge, a thin strip of metal that is the right thick¬
Four-stroke engines require the same kind of
ness to slip into the rocker-pushrod gap when it’s
regular maintenance as two-strokes, only more so.
correct. O.S. and Saito four-strokes have them;
With any model engine, you must be aware of the
Enyas come with a set of wrenches and a screw¬
possibility of internal rust.
driver. Before you loosen the valve adjusting mech¬
Fred Fischer of MRC has worked on model en¬
anism, slip the feeler gauge into the gap to make
gines from the time the first Enya four-strokes were
sure that the valve really needs adjusting.
introduced, and once ran the repair department for
Most rocker arms have an adjustment assem¬
MRC. He’s seen a lot of engines come in with
bly that consists of a slotted screw held in place by
repairs that could have been prevented. Here’s what
a hex nut. Insert a small screwdriver into the slot,
he says:
and hold it in position while you loosen the nut with
‘ ‘Although Enya engines have suffered from a
a spanner wrench. Don’t use pliers; no matter how
reputation of bad bearings, it is not due to poor qual¬
ity or a design flaw. It has been traced to the fuels
we use, our cleaning and storage habits, and the ba¬
sic use of the engine. Some people use too much
nitro in the fuel, they underprop the engine so it
overrevs in the air, and they allow the burnt fuel to
sit in the engine.
“The bottom end of a four-cycle engine is of¬
ten lubricated by blow-by fuel—burnt fuel that shoots
past the piston ring. Burnt fuel contains nitric and
formic acids! The alcohol in the fuel is hygroscopic;
it draws moisture out of the air and promotes rust.
This gives the engine a one-two punch if it isn’t kept
clean on the inside. O.S. and Saito engines have
Valve clearances rarely need adjustment; you should check suffered from this syndrome but to a lesser extent
them after the engine is broken in. Many engines include
because they do not develop as much power and
a feeler gauge, wrench, and screwdriver to make this eas¬
ier. (Illustration courtesy Altech Marketing) stress as an Enya.

123
 “The rules? Use low (10 percent or less) another fuel-related problem. It’s caused by the fact
nitromethane, keep to castor oil-based fuels, drain that castor oil can form a hard, paint-like coating
your engine dry and pump a little kerosene through when it’s heated. This is commonly called varnish,
the oil drain in and out of the engine to neutralize and it can foul the valve seats and coat the cylinder
the acids and protect against rust.” liner, sticking the piston in place.
Good advice. I generally use 12 percent nitro The only way to avoid varnish buildup is to keep
or less in four-stroke engines. As we’ll see, higher your engine clean. Follow the procedures outlined
nitro doesn’t make a four-stroke engine produce above to make sure no fuel is left in the engine. Af¬
more rpm. Using a fuel with less nitromethane ter each flight, before shutting down the engine,
means that there’s less unbumed nitro in the fuel pinch off or remove the fuel line so it runs itself dry.
residue to turn into nitric acid. Varnishing is a problem, but it’s not the sort of
Running the engine dry is a good policy for any thing that will trouble you if you follow proper proce¬
engine after the last flight of the day. The proce¬ dure. Don’t be tempted to use a fuel with no castor
dure is simple: Before you pump the tank dry after oil in the lubricant mix; this can give you overheat¬
the last flight, fire up the engine again. Making sure ing problems. On the other hand, selecting the right
you’ve got a good grip on the plane, open the throt¬ fuel can help prevent varnishing. At least one fuel
tle wide. Now disconnect the fuel line. The engine maker I know of, Red Max, includes anti-varnishing
will run out the last of its fuel and quit, nice and dry agents in their four-stroke fuel.
on the inside. Remember that alcohol attracts mois¬ The usual place that people encounter varnish
ture out of the air . . . you don’t want to leave any is on the outside of the engine. Unbumed fuel on
in the engine! the cylinder head or the outside of the exhaust pipe
All four-strokes have an oil outlet vent on the will cook into brown goo after a few months of run¬
crankcase. As Fred says, this is a handy point for ning. Standale Aircraft Products sells an excellent
injecting some light oil to neutralize the fuel residue cleaner that dissolves this stuff; you just brush it on
and coat the bearings. I keep some Marvel Mystery and wipe it off. Don’t be tempted to scrub it off;
Oil in a small fuel bulb. Ordinary transmission fluid you’ll scar the aluminum.
(not Type F) works well, too. Avoid sewing machine
oil or any oil that isn’t intended to be used at high FUELS
temperatures. At the end of a day’s flying, I give
There are several different brands of four-
each engine a shot of Marvel oil in the tube that lets
stroke fuel on the market. Which one to use is
the crankcase oil out of the engine compartment.
largely a matter of personal preference and ex¬
Then I turn the engine over a few times to distrib¬
ute the oil throughout the crankcase. perience. I’ll tell you about some of my experience
with different brands. This doesn’t cover all that’s
Storing a Four-Stroke available, of course.
Before we get specific, here are two cautions
When you store an engine, you should load it to keep in mind: First of all, be sure to use a fuel
with oil as above, then remove the glow plug and with at least some castor oil in the lubricant mix. Cas¬
put a few drops of oil into the combustion chamber.
tor oil has superior heat transfer properties and will
Turn the engine over a few times. This will work
help protect the engine from overheating. Second,
the oil through the intake and exhaust ports. Then
and most important, remember that you get what
seal the engine in a plastic bag to keep moisture out.
you pay for. The cheapest fuel you can get is sel¬
dom the best for your engine, either in terms of per¬
Varnishing formance or longevity.
The combustion products left in an engine can When you want more power or speed from a
cause corrosion, and that’s the most important thing two-stroke engine, you generally use a fuel with a
to guard against. But you’ll sometimes encounter higher percentage of nitromethane. Not so with four-

124
strokes. Higher nitro content will not increase the is a tendency to backfire and kick the prop loose if
top end rpm of the engine; after all, most four- they’re leaned out too far. This can be prevented
strokes are limited by design to a max rpm anyway. by running the engine where you should have it in
Nitro in four-stroke fuel will improve the reliability the first place—slightly rich.
of the engine’s idle and allow you to set the idle to Many Enya four-strokes come with an extra
lower rpm. This is why you don’t find four-stroke gasket for the cylinder head. If you consistently have
fuels with a wide range of nitro content; standard problems with the prop kicking loose, you can in¬
is 10 to 12 percent. sert this gasket between the cylinder and head. You
I have had very good success with Red Max will need to regap the valves after doing this. Ad¬
four-stroke fuel. It’s sold in 10 and 15 percent nitro ding this gasket will reduce the engine’s compres¬
strengths. I generally use the 10 percent mix in sport sion, which will reduce power slightly, but will cure
models with the engine mounted upright, and 15 per¬ the tendency to kick the prop. After running the en¬
cent in models with inverted or side-mounted en¬ gine for a while, consider removing the gasket and
gines. The hotter fuel helps keep the cylinder firing trying again; as the engine breaks in, its running
at low rpm and rich idle settings. characteristics will improve.
I’ve also had very good success with Cool The Enya .46 is worthy of note. It’s designed
Power four-stroke fuel. JMD Fuel Labs was one of to fit into most kits that call for a .40 two-stroke en¬
the first out with a four-stroke fuel, and their 12 per¬ gine. Properly propped (11-7 is the best size I’ve
cent mix is one of my favorites for all-around use. found for the .46), it will produce 3A horsepower,
SIG Manufacturing is now mixing a range of four- which is more than most common sport .40 two-
stroke fuels. And I’ve tried a gallon of Avgas four- strokes. It’s a scale builder’s delight.
stroke fuel from Ace RC with excellent results. The Enya .80 is a direct descendant of the .60,
Which one should you pick? Try a few and de¬ with the cylinder bored out and a slightly longer
cide for yourself. Stick with 10 to 12 percent nitro stroke. It’s actually a few ounces lighter than the
unless your engine is mounted inverted or has given .60 and considerably more powerful.
you some trouble on idle. Watch the magazines (es¬ There are two 1.20 size Enya four-strokes. The
pecially the engine columns, such as Clarence Lee’s 4 ‘straight” 1.20 is an excellent workhorse engine
excellent series in RCM) for news about new fuels. based on the design of the smaller Enyas. The R120
Ask your friends what they’ve found; a little ex¬ is a special engine, designed for international-class
perience is the best guide you can have. aerobatics competition. It has a custom carb that al¬
lows precise adjustment of the fuel mix, especially
SOME POPULAR FOUR-STROKE ENGINES at idle. It’s quite a bit more expensive than the
I’ve owned and run samples of just about ev¬ “straight” 1.20, so I recommend that you consider
ery four-stroke engine available in the USA, and the cheaper engine for sport flying.
learned a lot in the process. Each brand of engine Most of the Enya four-strokes have their glow
has certain characteristics that seem to be common plugs positioned on the front of the cylinder. Don’t
no matter what size the engine is. I’ll describe some be tempted to use a cylindrical glow plug connector
of my experiences; you may have different things on them. When you pull it off, you can rap your
happen when you try them out, but I think you’ll knuckles on the back of the spinning prop. I only had
find this overview helpful just the same. to do this once . . . don’t you do it at all! Use a re¬
Enya. The first four-stroke I ever owned was mote connector permanently wired to the plug. Re¬
an Enya .35, and I still have a lot of affection for the mote connectors are made by Model Products and
engine. I’ve never met an Enya four-stroke I didn’t McDaniel RC; most hobby shops have them.
like. They are consistently more powerful for their At this writing, Enya has announced a very ex¬
size than comparable four-strokes. They can be a citing new engine, a V-twin. I’ve only looked at
little cranky because of this; one of their major quirks specs and drawings so far, but it should be a power-

125
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The Enya .90 and 1.20 four-strokes are based on the same crankcase. All Enya four-strokes come with a set of tools
and a pressure tap for the muffler. (Photo courtesy Altech Marketing)

house. It has a single carburetor, so tuning will be Saito. I am very fond of Saito four-strokes.
simplified. The V-twin arrangement should help elim¬ Saito makes only two types of engines—four-stroke
inate problems associated with inverted mounting. and steam! They’ve been at it for a long time and
This engine could be a quarter scale builder's dream. have an excellent reputation; in my experience, that

126
 Saito four-strokes seem to tolerate a wide range
of glow plugs as well. I’ve used K&B Short plugs
with excellent results. As mentioned elsewhere, the
use of a special four-stroke plug (Fox, O.S., or
Sonic-Tronics) will improve the idle. Fuel isn’t a
problem either; my Saitos run happily on any 10 per¬
cent sport fuel. I do make certain that the fuel has
castor oil in the lubricant mix, to reduce the chance
of overheating.
Saito makes several multi-cylinder four-strokes.
I’ve owned their little .90 twin for several years,
and have been very happy with it. Saito also makes
a big 270 twin that has become very popular for Gi¬
ant models; it makes an excellent replacement for
The new Enya VT240 four-stroke is the only V-twin four- a Quadra-size engine if you’d rather work with a
stroke in mass production. Each cylinder has its own car¬
glow engine than a gas engine. The latest offering
buretor. It can produce 3.2 horsepower, turning an 18-8 prop
at 11,000 rpm. (Photo courtesy Altech Marketing) from Saito is a magnificent five-cylinder radial engine.
O.S. The first production four-strokes came
reputation is well-deserved. They are also quite in¬ from O.S. Engines. That original engine, the .60,
expensive in comparison with other four-strokes. has been replaced by a more powerful .61, but is
Saito engines aren’t as powerful as Enyas, and still flown in a lot of places. In general, these en¬
are slightly heavier. They make up for this by being gines maintain the excellent reputation that O.S. has
the easiest-handling engines I’ve ever played with. earned with its two-stroke engines.
They tolerate a wide range of props, and can be O.S. four-strokes really must be run with a spe¬
lugged down with a large prop for a slow-flying scale cial four-stroke glow plug. It improves the idle dra¬
ship. matically; there’s just no reason to struggle with a
The earlier Saito designs have glow plugs that standard plug. The ones I’ve run seem to prefer 10
are positioned in such a way that you can’t get a percent four-stroke fuel after breaking in for about
standard connector (like a Ni-Starter or Nilite) off 30 minutes on 10 percent two-stroke fuel.
them without hitting the prop. The little Saito .30 The O.S. .20 four-stroke is worthy of note. It’s
is like this. Use a remote glow plug connector like the smallest commercially available four-stroke, and
a HeadLock Remote for these engines. it’s a gem. If you have a small scale or sport model

Saito makes a wide range of four-stroke engines, noted for their smooth running. Shown here, left to right, are the Saito
.30, .45, 1.20, and .90 flat twin. All come with a set of tools. (Photo courtesy United Model Products)

127
The O.S. Gemini Twin comes in two sizes: 1.60 and 2.40 Webra makes a series of unique four-stroke engines that
cu. in. displacement. The single carburetor makes it easy have a rotary drum valve in the cylinder head. The drum is
to adjust. These have become very popular among scale turned by a toothed belt driven by the crankshaft. Shown
model builders. (Photo courtesy Great Planes Distributing) here are the Webra .40 (left) and .90 four-strokes. A .60 and
.80 are also available. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt)

that’s designed for an .09 to .15 two-stroke engine, into the chamber. Then the hole moves to the glow
the .20 will fly it well. It doesn’t seem to object to plug, which ignites the fuel. Finally, the hole travels
running inverted, although the needle setting is more to the exhaust outlet.
difficult to find. If you mount the engine inverted, There are several advantages to this unique
make sure the centerline of the fuel tank is level with setup. For one thing, there’s no danger of ‘‘float¬
the carburetor. ing” the valves at high speed. Floating occurs with
The O.S. Gemini Twin blazed the trail for multi¬ a poppet-valve engine when the springs that return
cylinder four-strokes. It fits beautifully in a Quarter the valves to their seats can’t work fast enough and
Scale Cub or Aeronca Champ, or just about any twin- the valves aren’t quite closed when combustion
powered classic lightplane. Two sizes of the Gemini starts. This means that these engines have a wider
are available. range of useful rpm than some four-strokes. You can
O.S. has released two spectacular four-strokes: also use smaller props at higher rpm. The drum
the Pegasus inline four-cylinder, and the Sirius five- valve will help to prevent pre-ignition, since the glow
cylinder radial. I haven’t run either of these engines, plug is only exposed to the combustion chamber
but I’ve spoken to several people who have and when the piston is near top dead center.
they’re very pleased with them. The Pegasus would Webra makes three engines in this design: a .40,
be a good substitute for a Quadra or similar size a .60, and an .80. I’ve run the .40 quite a bit, and
gasoline engine. Both of these engines are priced have been quite satisfied with it. It’s currently fly¬
in the $1500 range, so you won’t see hundreds of ing a small scale model with a 9-7 prop.
them around. HP. The German manufacturer HP has
Webra. Webra came out with a very interest¬ produced two four-strokes that use rotary valves.
ing line of four-stroke engines several years ago. In¬ I’m told that they’re no longer in production, but
stead of poppet valves, there’s a drum in the head there are plenty of them around. Two sizes were
of the engine. The drum rotates on its vertical axis, made, a .21 and a .49.
and is driven from the crankshaft by a toothed belt The HP four-strokes use a rotating valve shaped
on the front of the engine. The intake, glow plug, like a cone, with the point downward. It is turned
and exhaust are mounted around the top of the cyl¬ by a shaft running in a sleeve up the back of the en¬
inder head. As the drum turns, a hole in it that leads gine. As the cone rotates, it exposes the inlet, glow
to the cylinder passes the carburetor, allowing fuel plug, and exhaust to the combustion chamber. As

128
with other rotary valve four-strokes, there’s no dan¬ top of the vertical shaft at the end of each day’s fly¬
ger in overspinning these engines. ing. I’ve had no problems with the engine since try¬
In order to lubricate the shaft, the HP four- ing this fix.
strokes have a curious exhaust arrangement. Technopower. Some years ago, an engineer
There’s a tap on the exhaust pipe where you’d ex¬ in Ireland designed a miniature radial four-stroke en¬
pect to find one for tank pressurization. Instead, you gine. It gained quite a reputation, but not much com¬
use a short length of fuel line to connect it to an¬ mercial success. The design was sold to an American
other nipple at the top of the vertical shaft housing. company called Technopower II, and has since found
This ducts some of the exhaust down through the the success it deserves. Now there are Tech¬
shaft housing, through the crankcase pan, and out nopower radials available in three, five, seven and
another nipple near the front bearing. Unbumed oil nine-cylinder configurations. The five and seven-
in the exhaust lubricates the gears at the ends of cylinder motors are available either as glow engines
the shaft. You can connect your tank pressure line or set up for ignition use with miniature spark plugs.
to the forward nipple. Technopower engines are largely handmade,
I’ve run the HP .21 quite a bit. I found that the and are real works of art. The prices range from
exotic exhaust setup is unnecessary, since the $700 to $1800. I’ve had the chance to run a five-
crankcase seems to get plenty of lubrication from cylinder Technopower, and was very impressed with
fuel that blows by the piston. Pressurizing the fuel the easy handling. The carburetor is a standard one,
tank from the forward nipple also seems to provide adjusted exactly the same way you adjust other four-
too much pressure; I had a lot of trouble getting a strokes. I didn’t notice any bad habits at all.
needle setting with the recommended setup. Finally, One thing to be aware of when running a Tech¬
I read a suggestion in Clarence Lee’s engine column nopower engine (or any radial) is that oil will collect
in RC Modeler magazine. Clarence said to try pres¬ in the lower cylinders. If there’s a lot of oil, it could
surizing the tank directly from the nipple on the ex¬ cause a hydraulic lock when the engine is turned over
haust pipe, just as you would with any other engine. the first time. You should remove the glow plugs
I tried it and my needle setting problems went away. from the lower cylinders and turn the engine through
Just in case, I squirt a little oil in the nipple at the several times before starting it.

THE FUTURE
You can look for more innovations in four-stroke
design in the future. Four-strokes are continually be¬
ing upgraded to deliver more power. Mark II ver¬
sions of Enya, O.S., and Saito engines are all being
delivered.
You’re also likely to see some entirely new four-
stroke engines. K&B has been working with a pro¬
totype 1.20 four-stroke designed by master engine
man Bill Wisniewski. It incorporates four overhead
valves. I don’t know when this engine will be avail¬
able, since K&B is busy filling orders for their ex¬
cellent new .20 and .45 two-strokes, but they’re
H.P. produced two four-strokes that used rotary drum valves. serious about it.
The valves were driven by a shaft running up the back of I’ve also heard rumors that Fox is developing
the engine. Oil was taken from the exhaust and ducted down
the back, through the crankcase pan, and out the front. This
a four-stroke. Given Fox’s excellent reputation, they
is the H.P. 21; they also made a .49. (Photo by Jennifer Pratt) won’t release it until they’re satisfied with it.

129
Technopower makes a series of remarkable radial four-strokes. This is their seven-cylinder radial; it has a single carbure¬
tor at the back, feeding the cylinders through intake pipes. Like full-size engines, the cylinders fire in order. (Photo courtesy
Technopower II, Inc.) 1

130
 Appendix A

Radio Control Manufacturers and Suppliers

Ace R C Balsa USA Incorporated

116 West 19th St 201 Third Avenue
Higginsville, MO 64037 Menominee, MI 49858
Electronic kits, model kits, famous Silver Seven ra- Kits, including Giant Scale.
dios, Four Stroke Squadron.
Bee Hive Model Aircraft
Airtronics, Inc.
Box 744
11 Autry
Layton, UT 84041
Irvine, CA 92718-2709
Old Timer kits.
RC systems, kits.

Astro Flight Beemer RC West Distributors, Inc.

13311 Beach Ave. 7725 E Redfield Dr Suite 105
Venice, CA 90291 Scottsdale, AZ 85260
Electric flight systems, kits. Multiplex RC systems, sales and service.

B & B Specialties Bell Rock Industries

14234 Cleveland Road 6486 Hwy 179
Granger, IN 46530 Sedona, AZ 86336
Quadra engines, Giant model supplies. Accessories, sanding tools.

131
Bob Martin RC Models Chevron
1520 Acoma Lane #C P.O. Box 2480
Lake Havasu City, AZ 86403-2051 Sandusky, OH 44870
Sailplane kits. Perfect brand paint.

Bob Violett Models Circus Hobbies

1373 Citrus Road 3132 South Highland Drive
Winter Springs, FL 32708 Las Vegas, NV 89109
Ducted fan kits, fan units, building supplies, com¬ JR radio systems, kits, engines, accessories.
posite construction materials.
Cleveland Model and Supply
10309 Detroit Ave.
Bridi Aircraft Designs, Inc. Cleveland, OH 44102
23625 Pineforest Lane Hundreds of plans for scale and Old Timer models,
Harbor City, CA 90710 famous Cleveland Kits.
Airplane kits, glow plugs, accessories.
CompuServe
Byron Originals 5000 Arlington Centre Blvd.
Box 279 Highway 59 and 175 Columbus, OH 43220
Ida Grove, IA 51445 Personal computer network, includes ModelNet.
Giant Scale and ducted fan kits, engines, acces¬
sories. Condor Trading Company
27482 Capricho
C. B. Associates Incorporated Mission Viejo, CA 92692
21658 Cloud Way Picco engines, electric motors, accessories.
Hayward, CA 94545
Accessories, Giant Scale supplies. Coverite
420 Babylon Road
Cannon RC Systems Horsham, PA 19044
Lightweight miniature RC systems. Covering materials, kits, accessories.

Carl Goldberg Models Cox Hobbies

4732 W. Chicago Ave. 1525 E. Warner
Chicago, IL 60651 Santa Ana, CA 92705
Trainer planes, scale kits, Jet adhesives, accessories. .049 engines, kits, RC systems, ready-to-fly planes.

Carlson Engine Imports Craft Air Incorporated

814 E. Marconi Ave. 20115 Nordhoff Street
Phoenix, AZ 85022 Chats worth, CA 91311
Imported engines: PA W, Aurora, Mills and Taplin Kits, accessories.
reproductions, rare engines.
Dave Brown Products
Champion Model Aero. Co. 4560 Layhigh Road
P.O, Box 891 Hamilton, OH 45013
Woodbridge, NJ 07095 Accessories, wheels, RC Flight Simulator for per¬
Airplane kits, including Old Timers. sonal computers.

132
Dave Platt Models, Inc. FHS Supply
6940 Northwest 45th St. Rt 5 Box 68
Plantation, FL 33313 Clover, SC 29710
Scale model kits. Red Max fuels, Diesel fuel, custom blends.

Davey Systems Corp. Flyline Models

1 Wood Lane 10643 Ashby Place
Malvern, PA 19355 Fairfax, VA 22030
Sailplane kits, electric power kits, winches, electric Schoolyard Scale kits.
motors, accessories.
Fox Manufacturing
Davis Diesel Development 5305 Towson Ave.
Box 141 Fort Smith, AR 72901
Milford, CT 06460 Model engines, spinners, glow plugs, tools, acces¬
Conversion kits to Dieselize glow engines, accesso¬ sories.
ries, fuel, tools.
Futaba
Du-Bro Products 555 West Victoria
480 Bonner Road Compton, CA 90220
Wauconda, IL 60084 RC systems, accessories.
Accessories, tools, wheels, hardware.
Gorham Model Products
Dura Craft 23961 Craftsman Road
1007 Orchard Grove Dr. Calabasas, CA 91302
Royal Oak, MI 48067 Helicopter kits, accessories, gyros.
Dura Plane trainer kits.
Great Planes Manufacturing
Dynathrust 706 West Bradley
2541 N E 11th Court Urbana, IL 61801
Pompano Beach, FL 33062 Model kits, accessories.
Propellers for large engines.
Grish Brothers
Edson Enterprises P.O. Box 248
17 Speer Place St. John, IN 46373
Nutley, NJ 07110 Propellers, accessories.
Accessories, adjustable engine mounts.
H & N Electroncis
Eldon J. Lind Company 10937 Rome Beauty Drive
Los Alamitos, CA 90720 California City, CA 93505
Accessories, building boards, tools. Electronic accessories, Supersafe solder flux.

Eric Clutton—P.A.W. Diesels USA Harry B. Higley & Sons, Incorporated

913 Cedar Lane 433 Arquilla Drive
Tullahoma, TN 37388-3167 Glenwood, IL 60425
Imported Diesel engines, fuel. Accessories, tools.

133
Hayes Products J’ Tec
1558 Osage Street 164 School St.
San Marcos, CA 92069 Daly City, CA 94014
Tanks, motor mounts, accessories. Engine mounts, hardware, in-cowl mufflers, acces¬
sories.
Herb’s Model Motors
Box 61 Jet Hangar Hobbies
Forksville, PA 18616 12554 Centralia Road Lakewood, CA 90715
Antique reproduction engines and parts. Ducted fan kits, fan power systems.

High Point Products John Pond Old Time Plan Service

3013 Mary Kay Lane Box 3215
Glenview, IL 60025 San Jose, CA 95156
Prop balancing tools. Old Timer plans.

Hobby Horn Jomar

15173 Moran Street 2028 Knightsbridge
Westminster, CA 92683 Cincinnati, OH 45244
Old Timer kits, electric kits, and flight systems. Electric motor speed controllers, engine sync sys¬
tems, accessories.
Hobby Lobby International
Route 3 Franklin Pike Cir. K & B Manufacturing
Brentwood, TN 37027 12152 South Woodruff Avenue
Graupner kits, accessories, tools, large catalog. Downey, CA 90241
Engines, fuels, epoxy paints, accessories.
Hobby Shack
18480 Bandilier Circle Kraft Midwest
Fountain Valley, CA 92708 117 E. Main St.
Kits, ready-to-fly planes, RC systems, engines, ac¬ Northville, MI 48167
cessories, large catalog. RC system repair and tuning, Kraft radio parts.

Indy RC Kress Technology

10620 N. College Ave. 27 MiU Road
Indianapolis, IN 46280 Lloyd Harbor, NY 11743
Kits, engines, ready-to-fly planes, large catalog. Tanks, accessories, ducted fan power systems.

J & Z Products Kustom Kraftsmanship

25029 South Vermont Avenue P.O. Box 2699
Harbor City, CA 90710 Laguna Hills, CA 92653
Props, spinners, accessories. Accessories for .049 engines.

J M D Fuel Labs Lanier RC

P.O. Box 235 Oakwood Road
North Olmstead, OH 44070 Oakwood, GA 30566
Custom blended fuels. Ready-to-fly airplane kits, accessories.

134
Larry Jolly Models Midwest Products
5501 West Como 400 South Indiana
Santa Ana, CA 92703 Hobart, IN 46342
Sailplane and electric flight model kits. Kits, accessories, wood and building supplies.

Leisure Electronics Miniature Aircraft Supply

22971 B Triton Way 2594 N. Orange Blossom Trail
Laguna Hills, CA 92653 Orlando, FL 32804
Electric flight systems, chargers, Old Timer kits. Helicopter kits, parts, and accessories.

MRC
Model Aviation Products
2500 Woodbridge
368 Tuckerton Road
Edison, NJ 08817
Medford, NJ 08055
Ready-to-fly airplanes, RC systems, radios, engines,
Mufflers, tuned pipes, accessories.
model rockets, RC cars.
Model Engineering of Norwalk
Mac’s Products 54 Chestnut Hill
8020 18th Avenue Norwalk, CT 06851
Sacramento, CA 95826 Kits, chargers, accessories.
Mufflers and tuned pipes for most model engines,
accessories. Model Magic Products
P.O. Box 7784
Major Decals St. Paul, MN 55119
21 Fisher Ave. Model Magic Filler, adhesives, fuel tubing, acces¬
E. Longmeadow, MA 01028 sories.
Decal and stick-on insignia sets and designs.
Model Products Corp.
Mark’s Models P.O. Box 314
1578 Osage Pompton Plains, NJ 07444
San Marcos, CA 92065 Head Lock glow plug connectors, D-Hinges, acces¬
Fun scale kits, sailplane kits, accessories. sories.

Me Daniel RC Service Moody Tools

12421 Ransom Dr. 42-60 Crompton Ave.
Glendale, MD 20769 East Greenwich, RI 02818
Accessories, Ni-Starter glow plug batteries. Precision minature tool sets.

Micro Model Engineering Morgan’s Hobby Enterprises

1301 West Lafayette 200 West Lee St.
Sturgis, MI 49091 Enterprise, AL 36330
Reproduction parts for ignition engines. Cool Power fuel.

Micro- X Nick Ziroli Models

P.O. Box 1063 29 Edgar Dr.
Lorain, OH 44055 Smithtown, NY 11787
Kits, supplies, accessories. Giant Scale plans, accessories.

135
Norm Rosenstock Plans Pettit Paint Co. Inc.
94 Cedar Dr. 36 Pine St.
Plainview, NY 11803 Rockaway Boro, NJ 07866
Giant Scale plans. HobbyPoxy adhesives and paints.

Pica Products
Novak Electronics
2657 N E 188th St.
2709 Orange Avenue, C
Miami, FL 33180
Santa Ana, CA 92707
RC receivers, speed controllers, electronic acces¬ Kits, adhesives, accessories.
sories.
Polk’s Hobbies
346 Bergen Ave.
Off the Ground Models, Inc. Jersey City, NJ 07304
606 C West Anthony Drive Kits, engines, RC systems, accessories, tools.
Urbana, IL 61801
Sailplane kits. Progress Manufacturing Company
P.O. Box 1306
Ohio Superstar Model Products Manhattan, KS 66502
11376 Ridgeway Road Propellers.
Kensington, OH 44427
Kits, accessories.
RAM
4734 N. Milwaukee Ave.
PIC Penn International Chemicals
Chicago, IL 60630
943 Stierlin Road
Electric accessories, speed controllers, boat kits.
Mountain View, CA 94043
Adhesives, chemical products.
RJL Industries
PK Products P.O. Box 5654
P.O. Box 6226 Pasadena, CA 91107
Hayward, CA 94540 Engines, accessories, parts.
Giant scale motors, accessories.
Repla-Tech International, Incorporated
Pacer Technology
48500 Me Kenzie Highway
1600 Dell Ave
Vida, OR 97488
Campbell, CA 95008
Photos, plans, and documentation for scale aircraft.
Adhesives.

Paul K. Guillow, Inc. Rhom Products Mfg. Corp.

40 New Salem St. 908 65th St.
Wakefield, MA 01880 Brooklyn, NY 11219
Scale model kits. Retractable landing gear, accessories.

Peck-Polymers Robart
9962 Prospect Suite L 310 North 5th
Santee, CA 92071 St. Charles, IL 60714
Kits, supplies, RC blimp kit, C02 motors. Tools, accessories.

136
Robbe Model Sport SIG Manufacturing
180 Township Line Road 401 S. Front St.
Belle mead, NJ 08502 Montezuma, IA 50171
Kits, almost-ready-to-fly airplanes, chargers, acces¬ Kits, engines, RC systems, paint and covering, ac¬
sories. cessories, large catalog.

Rocket City RC Specialties Sonic-Tronics

103 Wholesale Ave N E 7862 Mill Road
Huntsville, AL 35811 Elkins Park, PA 19117
Accessories, tools, hinges. Accessories, glow plugs, fuel pumps.

Roush Manufacturing Standale Aircraft

1728 Bywood St. S E 2648 East Thomwood
Canton, OH 44707-1224 Wyoming, MI 49509
Giant scale kits. Accessories.

Royal Products Corporation Sterling Hobbies Inc.

790 West Tennessee Ave. 3620 G St.
Denver, CO 80223 Philadelphia, PA 19134
Kits, ready-to-fly models, engines, accessories. Kits, RC and control line.

SR Batteries Sterner Engineering

P.O. Box 287
661 Moorestown Drive
Bellport, NY 11713
Bath, PA 18014
High-performance batteries for RC systems, electric Ducted fan accessories and supplies.
flight.
Sullivan Products
Satellite City
1 N. Haven St.
P.O. Box 836
Baltimore, MD 21224
Simi, CA 93062-0836
Accessories, starters, pushrods, tanks, hardware.
Hot Stuff CyA adhesives, accessories.
Super Cyclone Engines
Scale Model Research P.O. Box 10658
418 East Oceanfront Phoenix, AZ 85064
Newport Beach, CA 92661 Reproduction Old Timer engines.
Scale photos and documentation.

Scande Research, Incorporated T & D Research Associates

P.O. Box 133 6371 El Cajon Blvd.
Villa Park, IL 60181 San Diego, CA 92115
Kits, accessories. Edco Sky Devil replica engines, parts.

Shamrock Competition Imports Tatone Products Corporation

Box 26247 1209 Geneva Avenue
New Orleans, LA 70186 San Francisco, CA 92112
OPS engines, parts, accessories, glow plugs. Engine mounts, mufflers, accessories, test stands.

137
Technopower Wilshire Model Center
610 North Street 2836 Santa Monica Boulevard
Chagrin Falls, OH 44022 Santa Monica, CA 90404
Radial four-stroke engines. Electric power systems, props, hard-to-find electric
stuff.
Top Flite Models
MonoKote covering, scale and sailplane kits, Windsor Propeller Company
trainers, props.
384 Tesconi Court
Tower Hobbies Santa Rosa, CA 95401
1608 Interstate Dr. Master Airscrew props and accessories.
Champaign, IL 61821
Kits, engines, radio systems, large catalog. Wing Manufacturing
P.O. Box 33
U. S. Quadra Crystal Lake, IL 60014
1032 East Manitowoc Avenue Accessories, foam wing kits, model kits.
Oakcreek, WI 53154
Quadra engines, props, accessories for Giant Scale. World Engines
8960 Rossash Ave.
Ultra Systems By Da Ca Cincinnati, OH 45236
6303 South 168th St.
Engines, radio systems, ready-to-fly kits, accessories.
Omaha, NE 68144
Field boxes, model support stands, accessories.
Yale Hobby Mfg.
United Model Distributors 20 Holly Lane
301 Holbrook Dr. Wallingford, CT 06492
Wheeling, IL 60090 Helicopter blades, parts, and accessories.
Engines, ready-to-fly planes.

W. E. Technical Services Zenith Aviation Books

P.O. Box 76884 P.O. Box 1
Atlanta, GA 30328 Osceola, WI 54020
Plans and drawings. Reference books, magazines, videotapes, and
calendars.
Williams Brothers Inc.
181 Pawnee St. Zimpro Marketing
San Marcos, CA 92069 P.O. Box 3076
Parts and accessories for scale models, plastic kits, Oak Ridge, TN 37830
pilot figures. Ready-to-fly kits from Zimbabwe Model Products.

138
 Appendix B

Magazines, Publishers, and Booksellers

Flying Models Magazine Model Airplane News

Box 700 632 Danbury Road
Newton, NJ 07860 Georgetown, CT 06829

Model Aviation Magazine

Hannan’s Runway 1810 Samuel Morse Drive
Box A Reston, VA 22090
Escondido, CA 92025
Model Builder Magazine
898 W. 16th St.
Historic Aviation Newport Beach, CA 92663-2802
3850 Coronation Road
Eagan, MN 55122 Model Shopper Magazine
524 Second St.
San Francisco, CA 94107
Kalmbach Publishing
1027 N. Seventh St. Motorbooks International
Milwaukee, WI 53233 729 Prospect Ave.
Osceola, WI 54020

Midwest Technical Publications RC Report

1741 Big Bend P.O. Box 1706
St. Louis, MO 63117 Huntsville, AL 35807

139
RC Soaring Digest Scale RC Modeler
P.O. Box 269 7950 Deering Ave.
Peterborough, NH 03458 Canoga Park, CA 91304

RC Video Magazine
Squadron/Signal Publications
Box 98
1115 Crowley Drive
Lafayette, CO 80026
Carrollton, TX 75006

Radio Control Modeler Magazine

120 W. Sierra Madre Blvd. TAB BOOKS Inc.
Sierra Madre, CA 91023 Blue Ridge Summit, PA 17294

140
 Appendix C

AMA Recognized
Special Interest Groups

Officers’ Name and Address Sec/Treas. Publication

Electric Aeromodeling Association

Robert A. Stiff, President
P.0. Box 9
Midway City, CA 92655

International Miniature Aircraft Association (IMAA)

High Flight
Dick Phillips Bill Wilbur Les Hard
2070 Wesbrook Drive P.O. Box 501 2909 W. Mich. Ave
Sidney, BC Canada V8L 4K1 Kittery, ME 03904 Lansing, MI 48917

International Miniature Aerobatic Club (IMAC)

John Lockwood, President C. Glenn Carter IMAC Newsletter

1696 Griffith Avenue 2020 Gill Port Lane C. Glenn Carter
Clovis, CA 93612 Walnut Creek, CA 94598

141
 Miniature Aircraft Combat Association (MACA)
MACA Newsletter
Phil Cartier, President Chris Gay Dr. T. R. Passen
760 Waltonville RD 2018 Wessel Ct P.O. Box 111
Hummestown, PA 17036 St. Charles, IL 60174 Jasonvle, IN 47438
(312) 532-7349 (312) 584-6015

National Association of Scale Aeromodelers (NASA)

Replica
John Guenther, President Burt Dugan
RR 3, Box 261 11090 Phyllis Dr
Borden, IN 47106 Clio, MI 48420

Navy Carrier Society (NCS)

Hi Low Landings
Pete Mazur, President Melvin Schuette
5 W. Windsor Court P.O. Box 293
Aurora, IL 60504 Auburn, KS 66402

National Free Flight Society (NFFS)

Free Flight Digest
Tony Italiano, President Robert Meuser
1655 Revere Drive 707 Second St
Brookfield, WI 53005 Davis, CA 95616

National Miniature Pylon Racing Association (NMPRA)

NMPRA
Henry Bartle, President Jill Bussell Karen Yeager
1353 N. Santiago 4803 Fallon Place 38238 Castle
Santa Ana, CA 92701 Dallas, TX 75227 Romulus, MI 48174

National Society of Radio Controlled Aerobatics (NSRCA)

KFACTOR
Craig Millet, President Suzi Stream Betty Stream
c/o Gibson, Dunn & Crutcher 3723 Snowden Avenue 3723 Snowden Avenue
P.O. Box 2490 Long Beach, CA 90808 Long Beach, CA 90808
Newport Beach, CA 92660

142
 National Soaring Society (NSS)
Sailplane
Peter Carr, President Dick Crowley Doug Dorton
229 Little Avenue 16413 E. Stanford PL 3058 Bernina Drive
Ridgway, PA 15853 Aurora, CO 80015 SLC UT 84118

North American Speed Society

William Wisniewski Bev Wisniewski Speed Times
9222 Cedar Street 9222 Cedar Street Box 82294
Bellflower, CA 90706 Bellflower, CA 90706 North Burnaby, BC

Precision Aerobatics Model Pilots Association (PAMPA)

Pro Stunt News
George Higgins Doug Figgs Windy Urtnowski
P.O. Box 561 329 Lincoln Place 9 Union Avenue
N. Pembroke, MA 02358 Brooklyn, NY 11238 Littleferry, NJ 07643

Society of Antique Modelers (SAM)

Sam Speaks
Sd Taibi, President Robert Dodds Jim Adams, Editor
4339 Conquista Ave. 2005 West Pine 2538 N. Spurgeon St.
Lakewood, CA 90713 Lodi, CA 95240 Santa Ana, CA 92706

United Scale and Pattern Judges Association

Frank Broach, Sr. Russell Knetzger
463 S. Harrison Avenue 2625 E. Shore wood Blvd.
St. Louis, MO 63122 Milwaukee, WI 53211

143
 Appendix D

Academy of Model Aeronautics

Insurance Facts

Accident/Medical Coverage 4. Applies to model operation, in accordance

with the AMA Safety Code.
(Applies to individual members only) 5. Reimburses only for those expenses not co¬
This coverage works together with liability protec¬
vered by any other health plan.
tion, but Accident/Medical applies to injury only, to
reimburse an AMA member for medical expenses
What to do: If you are injured while engaged
(also to reimburse the beneficiary for loss of life).
in the operation of models, please call the AMA to
Property damage is not involved. The Acci¬
obtain a medical claim form and detailed instructions
dent/Medical coverage applies to injuries resulting
for filing your claim.
from model operation accidents regardless of who
causes the accidents. AMA Liability Protection,
however, applies to injury or property damage Fire, Vandalism, and Theft Coverage
caused by an AMA member to someone else (see (Applies to individual members only)
Comprehensive General Liability Coverage). The
Accident/Medical coverage works as follows: 1. Provides up to $1,000 for loss of models and
accessories, including RC equipment. Theft loss
1. Provides up to $7,500 each for personal in¬ claims must be accompanied by a police report
jury, and $1,500 for dismemberment or and are evaluated in light of the information con¬
death. tained therein; i.e. whether stolen articles were,
2. Operates directly—does not require claim at the time of theft, in a locked or secured struc¬
action by another person. ture or conveyance and whether police found
3. Pays upon submission of bills or other docu¬ signs of forcible entry.
ments certifying cost of treatment. 2. Except for first $100, which is deductible.

144
 3. Coverage is “excess” to any other coverage 2. Any active dues-paying chartered club/chapter
which may be applicable. member (who must also be an AMA member),
as defined in the official club/chapter charter or
Comprehensive General Liability Coverage bylaws.
3 Any owner of property used by the club (when
(Applies to individual members, clubs, chapters, and
named by the club as additional insured) for any
additional insureds)
official activities (meetings, flying sessions, car
races, boating events, rocket shoots, contests,
1. For accidents arising from the operation of
etc.) for which the club is liable.
model aircraft, rockets, cars, and boats, in ac¬
4 Any honorary chartered club member, defined
cordance with the AM A (or NAR) Safety Code.
as one who is not a dues-paying club member
2. Up to $1,000,000 per accident for bodily injury
and who does not participate regularly in club
and/or property damage, subject to a
activities; such member must be listed on the
$1,000,000 annual aggregate limit of liability
charter application as honorary.
which applies individually and collectively to all
5 Any associate chartered club member is usually
AMA members and additional insureds.
defined as wife, husband, child or parent of an
3. Covering all activities everywhere, whether
active club member who does not operate
competition or sport, provided that the original
models as part of the club’s activity; such mem¬
suit for damages is brought in the United States
ber must be listed on the charter application as
of America. an associate.
4. Involving member-to-member as well as
member-to-nonmember accidents. B. For the following ACTIVITIES—as to the liabil¬
5. Coverage is “excess” to any other applicable ity of the club/chapter for activities scheduled or
coverage. designated by club/chapter officers as official
6. Except first $50 deductible (property damage club/chapter events, such as:
only).
7. Any AMA member whose model causes an ac¬ 1. Any meeting of the charter club/chapter, in¬
cident should report the accident and file a claim doors or outdoors, involving modeling or non¬
when liability is incurred. modeling activity, including club/chapter social
and/or business affairs.
Claim forms and step-by-step procedures for filing 2. Any meet or contest sanctioned by the Academy
a claim are available from AMA HQ. In emergen¬ of Model Aeronautics in which the club/chap¬
cies, contact HQ. Phone: (703) 435-0750. Ask for ter acts as sponsor and requires AMA member¬
the Insurance Claim Representative in the Special ship of all contestants who participate by
Services Department. operating models.
3. Any model activity of the club/chapter provided
Persons and Activities Insured under the that only AMA members are involved in oper¬
AMA Insurance Coverage Provided to Char¬ ating models (aircraft, cars, boats, or rockets).
tered Club/Chapters and Members Thereof 4. Any club/chapter involving guests to the extent
A. The following PERSONS—as to their liability for that the club’s/chapter’s liability is protected for
activities of the club/chapter or four activities per¬ the action of any guest, but non-AMA member
formed on behalf of the club/chapter, as follows: guests themselves are not insured.

1. Any chartered club/chapter officer (each of Complete details of coverage (s) and exceptions are
whom must be an AMA member), while acting contained in master policies on file at AMA Head¬
within the scope of this position and in the per¬ quarters, available for $1.00 per policy for handling
formance of his duties. and postage.

145
 fr.

Appendix E

Academy of Model Aeronautics

Official Safety Code

January 1, 1984 4. If my model weighs over 20 pounds, I will only

Model Operations Must Be fly it in accordance with paragraph 5 of this sec¬
in Accordance with This Code in tion of the AMA Safety Code, with a minimum
Order for AMA Liability Protection to Apply separation of 65 feet between spectators and
flight operations.
General 5. At air shows or model flying demonstrations,
1. I will not fly my model aircraft in competition a single straight line must be established, one
or in the presence of spectators until it has been side of which is for flying, with the other side
proven to be airworthy by having been previ¬ for spectators. Only those persons essential to
ously, successfully flight tested. the flight operations are to be permitted on the
2. I will not fly my model higher than approximately flying side of the line; all others must be on the
400 feet within 3 miles of an airport with out spectator side. Flying over the spectator side
notifying the airport operator. I will give right- of the line is prohibited, unless beyond the con¬
of-way to, and avoid flying in the proximity of trol of the pilot(s).
full-scale aircraft. Where necessary, an ob¬ The only exceptions which may be permitted
server shall be utilized to supervise flying to to the single straight line requirement, under
avoid having models fly in the proximity of full- special circumstances involving consideration of
scale aircraft. site conditions and model size, weight, speed
3. Where established, I will abide by the safety and power, must be jointly approved by the
rules for the flying site I use, and I will not will¬ AMA President and the Executive Director. In
fully and deliberately fly my models in a care¬ any case, the maximum permissible weight of
less, reckless, and/or dangerous manner. flying models is 55 pounds.

146
 6. I will not fly my model unless it is identified with ment ground range check before the first flight
my name and address or AMA number on or of a new or repaired model.
in the model. NOTE: This does not apply to 2. I will not fly my model aircraft in the presence
models flown indoors. of spectators until I become a qualified flier, un¬
7. I will not operate models with metal-bladed less assisted by an experienced helper.
propellers or with gaseous boosts, in which 3. I will perform my initial turn after takeoff away
gases other than air at normal atmospheric pres¬ from the pit, spectator, and parking areas, and
sure enter their internal combustion engine(s); I will not thereafter perform maneuvers, flights
nor will I operate models with extremely haz¬ of any sort, or landing approaches over a pit,
ardous fuels; such as those containing spectator, or parking area.
tetranitromethane or hydrazine.
8. I will not operate models with pyrotechnics (any Free Flight
device that explodes, bums, or propels a projec¬
tile of any kind) including, but not limited to, 1. I will not launch my model aircraft unless at least
rockets, explosive bombs dropped from models, 100 feet downwind of spectators and automo¬
bile parking.
smoke bombs, all explosive gases (such as
2. I will not fly my model unless the launch area
hydrogen-filled balloons), ground mounted
devices launching a projectile. The only excep¬ is clear of all persons except my mechanic and
tions permitted are rockets flown in accordance officials.
with the Safety Code of the National Associa¬ 3. I will employ the use of an adequate device in
flight to extinguish any fuses on the model af¬
tion of Rocketry or those permanently attached
ter it has completed its function.
(as per JATO use); also those items authorized
for Air Show Team use as defined by the AST
Advisory Committee (document available from Control Line
AMA HQ). 1. I will subject my complete control system (in¬
cluding safety thong, where applicable) to an in¬
NOTE: A model aircraft is defined as heavier-than-
spection and pull test prior to flying.
air craft with or without engine, not able to carry
2. I will assure that my flying area is safely clear
a human being.
of all utility wires or poles.
3. I will assure that my flying area is safely clear
Radio Control of all nonessential participants and spectators
1. I will have completed a successful radio equip¬ before permitting my engine to be started.

147
 Appendix F Academy of Model Aeronautics
FREQUENCY IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM
EFFECTIVE JANUARY 1988

PLAN NOW!

72 MHz AIRCRAFT USE ONLY

Single RED streamer-7/8" to 1" wide by 8" long affixed to the
top of the transmitter antenna imprinted with above wording

1988-1991 AIRCRAFT FREQUENCIES

Channel Channel Channel Channel

No. Frequency No. Frequency No. Frequency No. Frequency
12 72.030 24 72.270 38 72.550 48 72.750
14 72.070 26 72.310 40 72.590 50 72.790
16 72.110 28 72.350 42 72.630 52 72.830
18 72.1 50 30 72.390 44 72.670 54 72.870
20 72.190 32 72.430 46 72.710 56 72.910
22 72.230 34 72.470
Channels 12-34 Narrow Band transmitter only Channel 36 and 58 not used—see General Info

CHANNEL NUMBER PLAQUES

:3 One and one-half inch BLACK numerals with 1/4" stroke mounted on
a white background, visible on both sides of the plaque.
At modeler's option, they may read horizontally or vertically and be attached
at the base, center, or top of the antenna.

8 Non-reflective materials recommended.

GENERAL INFORMATION
Effective January 1988, channels 12 through 34 will be reserved for
narrow-band transmitters only. Older, broad band equipment, as well
as new narrow-band, can be operated on channels 38 through 56.
Channel 36 is not used in order to provide an 80 KHz spacing
between channels 34 and 38.
Channel 58 is not used to provide image response protection for
channel 12.
The channel usage and identification system is authorized for use in AMA sanc¬
tioned events and is highly recommended for ail sport flying and club activities.
See pages 127-129 of the 1986-87 Official Model Aircraft Regulations for cur¬
rent frequency information and recommendations.

SEE OTHER SIDE FOR MORE INFORMATION

ACADEMY OF MODEL AERONAUTICS

1810 Samuel Morse Drive, Reston, VA 22090

148
 FREQUENCY IDENTIFICATION SYSTEM
EFFECTIVE JANUARY 1988

PLAN NOWI
75 MHz SURFACE USE ONLY
Single YELLOW streamer—7/8" to 1" wide by 8" long affixed to the
top of the transmitter antenna imprinted with above wording

,. 1988-1991 SURFACE FREQUENCIES

Channel Channel Channel

No. Frequency No. Frequency No. Frequency
62 75.430 72 75.630 82 75.830
64 75.470 74 75.670 84 75.870
66 75.510 76 75.710 86 75.910
68 75.550 78 75.750 88 75.950
70 75.590 80 75.790 90 75.990

CHANNEL NUMBER PLAQUES

One and one-half inch BLACK numerals with 1 /4" stroke mounted on
a white background, visible on both sides of the plaque.
At modeler's option, they may read horizontally or vertically and be attached
at the base, center, or top of the antenna.
Non-reflective materials recommended.

OTHER BANDS
(Model Aircraft or Surface Models)

2TMHz
Single, colored streamer or triangular flag—7/8" to 1" by 8"
26.995 Brown 27.095 Orange 27.195 Green
27.045 Red 27.145 Yellow 27.255 Blue

6 METER
Amateur Radio License Required
50 MHz 53 MHz
Single, BLACK streamer 7/8" to 1" by 8" and Two colored streamers 7/8" to 1" wide by 8" long
channel marker plaque Frequency Colors Frequency Colors
Channel 53.100 Black-Brown 53.500 Black-Green
No. Frequency 53.200 Black-Red 53.600 Black-Blue
00 50.800 53.300 Black-Orange 53.700 Black-Purple
02 50.840 53.400 Black-Yellow 53.800 Black-Gray
04 50.880
06 50.920
08 50.960
SEE OTHER SIDE FOR MORE INFORMATION

149
 Appendix G

AMA District Frequency Coordinators

More information on radio interference problems can District 5: AL, FL, GA, MS, PR, SC, TN
be obtained from these people. This list is current Bumis Fields
as of April 1987. P.O. Box 1063
Strickland Road
District 1: CT, ME, MA, NH, RI, VT Interlachen, FL 32048
George Wilson
82 Frazier Way
Marston Mills, MA 02648 District 6: IL, IN, KY, MO
Loren Holm
District 2: NY, NJ 3632 Main
George Myers Quincy, IL 62301
70 Froelich Farm Road
Hicksville, NY 11801
District 7: IA, MI, MN, WI
District 3: OH, PA, WV Bob Stamm
James Bearden Box 357
5552 Foxrun Ct. Minoqua, WI 54548
Cincinnati, OH 45239

District 4: DE, DC, MD, NC, VA District 8: AR, LA, NM, OK, TX
Paul Yacobucci Scott Kalmus
6408 Winthrop Dr. 814 West Centerville #125
Fayetteville, NC 28301 Garland, TX 75041

150
District 9: CO, KS, NE, ND, SD, WY District 11: AK, ID, MT, OR, WA
Steve Mangles Robert Balch
Radio Service Center 16439 SE Haig Dr.
918 S. Sheridan Portland, OR 97236
Denver, CO 80226

District 10: AZ, CA, HI, NV, UT

George Steiner
2238 Rogue River Dr.
Sacramento, CA 95826

151
 Index

A airspeed, 90 cell memory in, 28

AAC vs. ABC engines, 112 alcohol methanol, 108 charge speeds and currents in, 28
Academy of Model Aeronautics aliphatic resin glues, 17 charging of, 28
(AMA), 2, 5 almost ready to fly (ARF) planes, 57 glow plug, 93
benefits of, 6 Dura Craft, 63 preflight inspection of, 82, 85
clubs chartered by, 6 Indy RC, 63 radio system, 28
district frequency coordinators, Lanier, 62 receiver, 48
150-151 MRC foam planes, 59 test equipment for, 30
frequency identification Polk’s Hobbies, 62 Black Baron trainer (Coverite), 55
system, 148-149 RPM models, 60 building boards, 19
frequency phase-in plan by, 22 altitude, 90
insurance by, 5, 144-145 AM radio systems, 34
safety code for, 5, 146-147 antennas, 51 C
shows and exhibitions by, 6 approach, 91, 100 carburetor
special interest groups and clubs four-stroke engine, 120
by, 141 idle adjustment in, 103
transmitter testing program by, 23 B lean running, 105
accelerators (glue), 16 balancing, battery pack, 28 needle valve, 103
adhesives, 15 balsa wood, cutting, 41 throttle stop, 104
aliphatic resin glues, 17 bands, 22 troubleshooting, 104
casein glues, 17 basic building techniques, 41-48 two-stroke, 102
epoxy, 17 aileron linkage in, 50 casein glues, 17
plastic glues, 18 antennas in, 51 cell memory (see batteries), 28
aeromodeling, 1-13 cutting balsa wood in, 41 Challenger ARF plane, 62
Academy of Model Aeronautics engine mounts in, 42 charge speeds, 28
for, 5 fitting cut parts, 42 charging, 28, 29
diversity in, 2 hinges in, 44 Cherokee ARF (RPM), 60
model industry of, 2 pushrods in, 43, 49 chicken sticks, 95
ModelNet computer network for, 8 receiver battery in, 48 Christensen, Doug, 24
publications for, 2 receiver mounting, 51 clean-up supplies, 94
trade shows for, 4 servo mounting in, 49 clubs, 6, 141-143
AeroStar 40 (Midwest Products), 45 switch harness in, 48 ColorTex, 66
ailerons, 39, 40 throttle linkage in, 50 computer network, ModelNet, 8
linkage for, 50 batteries conferences (ModelNet), 12
preflight inspection of, 83 12-volt ground equipment, 95 connectors, 31, 32
Air Scout trainer (Ace), 57 balancing, 28 controls, 90

152
 preflight inspection for, 84 field fast charging, 29 two-stroke engine, 108
corners, covering and finishing, 74 fillers, 19 varnishing from, 124
covering and finishing, 66-81 fitting cut parts, 42 fuel pump, 94
basic techniques for, 69 flexible pushrods, 44
corners and curves in, 74 flight field procedures, 98 G
covering open frameworks, 70 approach and landing in, 100 glow driver, 93
fiberglass cloth in, 78 courtesy in, 99 glow plug
iron-on covering in, 66 pit area in, 86 battery for, 93
painting, 75 runway etiquette, 99 four-stroke engine, 119
solid surfaces and, 71 takeoff, 99 two-stroke engine, 106
Coverite, 66 flight maneuvers glues, 15
cracks, 83 turning three-channel planes in, ground equipment, 92
currents, 28 91 12-volt batteries in, 95
curves, covering and finishing, 74 turns, 91 clean-up supplies in, 94
cyanoacrylate glues, 15 flying, 82-100 field boxes in, 92
accelerators for, 16 approach and landing, 91 fuel pump, 94
grades of, 15 basic maneuvers in, 90 glow plug battery, 93
safety in use of, 15 field courtesy in, 98 starters and chicken sticks, 95
storage of, 16 field frequency procedures for, 97 tachometers, 95
ground equipment, 92
D pit area in, 86 H
D-hinges, 47 preflight checklist for, 82 hinges, 44
data libraries (ModelNet), 12 running up engine for, 87 D-, 47
dead stick, 99 safe locations for, 96 installation of, 45, 46
diesel two-stroke engines, 113 takeoff for, 89 pinned, 45
breaking in, 114 taxiing for, 87 types of, 45
fuel for, 114 Flying Models magazine, 2 using covering material to make,
glow engine, 115 FM radio systems, 34 47
sources for, 115 foam planes (MRC), 59, 60 Hot Stuff, 15
starting procedure for, 114 four-stroke engines, 117-130 HP engines, 128
dihedral angle, 39 breaking in, 121
district frequency coordinators carburetor for, 120 I
(AMA), 150-151 Enya, 125 idle adjustment, 103, 120
dopes, 75 fuels for, 124 insurance (AMA), 5, 6, 144-145
DuraPlane trainer, 64 future developments for, 129 interference, 23, 35
glow plugs for, 119 interference rejection, 36
E HP, 128 intermodulation, 90
E-Z kits, 58 maintenance of, 123 iron-on coverings, 66
Eagle and Eaglet (Goldberg), 52 mounts for, 118 application of, 67
Elder trainer (Top Flite), 54 mufflers for, 119 cleaning iron after, 74
Elliott, John, 59 O.S., 127 iron for, 67
enamel, 75 popular models of, 125 surface preparation for, 68
engine mounts, 42, 118 propellers for, 117 working temperature for, 67
engines relative power of, 117
AAC vs. ABC, 112 Saito, 126 J
diesel, two-stroke, 113 storage of, 124 Jet glue, 15
four-stroke, 117-130 Technopower, 129
lapped vs. ringed, 112 valve adjustment for, 122 K
preflight inspection for, 84 varnishing in, 124 Krazy Glue, 15
running up, 87, 88 Webra, 128
two-stroke, 101-116, frequency L
Enya engines, 125 bands of, 22 landing, 91, 100
epoxy adhesives, 17 control systems for, 97 landing gear and wheels, preflight
epoxy paints, 75 flag indicators for, 98 inspection for, 83
flight field procedures for, 97 lapped engines, 112
F phase-in plan for, 22 lean runs, 105, 107
fast charging, 29 frequency identification system
fiberglass cloth, 78 (AMA), 148-149 M
application of, 79 fuel magazines, 2-4, 139-140
grades of, 78 four-stroke engines, 124 maintaining four-stroke engines, 123
sanding and finishing of, 81 diesel, 114 maintaining two-stroke engines, 106
field box, 92 lubricants in, 109 masking, 78

153
Megowcoupe trainer, 39 Pussycat sailplane, 40 takeoff, 89, 99
member directory (ModelNet), 11 taxiing, 87
Model Airplane News magazine, 3 Q Technopower engines, 129
Model Aviation magazine, 3 quick charging, 29 test equipment, battery, 30
Model Builder magazine, 3 test stands, 110
model industry, 2 R thinners, 76
Model Shopper magazine, 3 radio system, 22-37 third-order intermodulation, 90
ModelNet computer network, 8 AM, FM, or PCM, 34 throttle linkage, 50
conference feature of, 12 batteries for, 28 throttle stop, 104
costs of, 8 care of, 27 tools and accessories, 20-21
data libraries for, 12 cost of, 24, 25 trade shows, 4
hardware requirements of, 8 frequency phase-in plan for, 22 trainer airplanes, 38-41
main menu of, 10 installation of, 48-52 Ace Air Scout, 57
member directory for, 11 interference in, 23, 35 ailerons in, 39, 40
message board feature of, 10 manufacturers and suppliers for, almost ready to fly (ARF) planes
operation of, 9 131-138 as, 57
operators of, 13 multichannel, 25 components of, 38
subtopics covered by, 10 quality of, 25 Coverite Black Baron, 55
MonoKote, 66 range checking, 85 Goldberg Eaglet and Eagle, 52
mufflers, 119 servicing of, 33 Peck-Polymers Prairie Bird, 54
multichannel radio, 25 testing for interference rejection sailplanes as, 40
in, 36 SIG Kadet, 53
N transmitter testing in, 23 sources for, 38
narrowband radio, 35 troubleshooting, 31 Top Flite Elder, 54
National Model Airplane Champion¬ RC Modeler magazine, 3 Trainer Hawk (MRC), 60
ships (NATS), 7 RC Report magazine, 3 transmitter, test program by, 23
needle valve, 103, 120 RC Video magazine, 3 trickle charging, 28
nitromethane, 108 receiver, 51 trim painting, 78
batteries for, 48 turns, 91
O preflight inspection of, 82 three-channel planes, 91
O.S. engines, 127 rigid pushrods, 44 two-stroke engines, 101-116
open frameworks, covering and ringed engines, 112 AAC vs. ABC, 112
finishing, 70 running up engines, 87, 88 avoiding lean runs in, 105
runways, 99 breaking in, 111
P carburetors for, 102
painting, 75 S diesel, 113
compatibility of paints in, 76 safety code (AMA), 5, 146-147 exploded view of, 102
conditions in, 77 sailplanes, 40 fuel for, 108
masking in, 78 Saito engines, 126 glow plugs for, 106
paint application in, 77 Scale RC Modeler magazine, 4 lapped vs. ringed, 112
surface preparation for, 77 servo maintenance, 106, 112
thinner used in, 76 mounting of, 49 repair for, 112
trim, 78 preflight inspection for, 82 safety procedures for, 101
PCM radio systems, 34 reversing and control movement starters for, 107
pinned hinges, 45 in, 49 test stands for, 110
pit area, 86 SIG Kadet trainer, 53
plastic glues, 18 Smith, Chip, 64 U
Prairie Bird trainer (Peck-Polymers), solid surfaces, covering and finish¬ UltraKote, 66
54 ing, 71
preflight inspection, 82 spraybar, 104 V
batteries, 85 starters, 95 valve adjustments, 122
controls, 84 cautions with, 107 varnishing, 124
engine, 84 two-stroke engine, 107
range checking radio in, 85 Super Box Fly, 58 W
servo, receiver, control surfaces, Super Glue, 15 Webra engines, 128
82 Super Sportster (Great Planes), 43 wideband radio, 35
propellers Supercoat, 66 wings, preflight inspection of, 83
four-stroke engine, 117 switch, 32 Winter, Bill, 2
kicking in, 118 switch harness, 48 workshop, 14-21, 14 *

publications, 2, 139-140
pushrods, 43, 49 T Z
rigid vs. flexible, 44 tachometers, 95 Zap glue, 15

154 Edited by Steven H. Mesner

^ Vf, /3 3 93-

FORD city RiiLiC

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629.133 ' 90-226

Pratt, Douglas R. $9.95
The beginner's guide to radio
control sport flying.

M A j A >> U a 7
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$ ,t tt
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629.133 90-226
Pratt, Douglas R.
The beginner*s guide to radio
control sport flying*
 “Lavishly illustrated... with excellent pictures... the information has been
put together in the best possible arrangement... RC MODELER Magazine

Th|s guideis written as an encyclopedia of tips, tricks, and handy things

to know for the beginning sport model airplane builder and flyer.
• Covers building, flying, and repairing all types of RC planes
• Includes safety guidelines.
• Discusses the Federal Communications Commission RC
frequencies.
• Contains the technical information you need to keep your planes
in the air and your equipment in good working condition.
a ■ D°,u,9 ?ratt is.also author of The Advanced Guide to Radio Control Sport
Flying. He is special projects director of the Academy of Model Aeronautics
the national organization for model fliers.
,ncJ^e Advanced Guide to Radio Control Sport Flying (Book No.
3060) is a companion volume to this book. In it, Pratt provides greater detail
in electrical and electronic aspects of radio controlled sport flyinq as well
as information on building and flying more advanced models *