ENGLAND

18TH TO 20TH CENTURY

MEN AND WOMEN’S COSTUMES AND THEIR
ACCESSORIES

INTRODUCTION
The evolution of English costume and textiles from the 18th to the 20th
century showcases a dynamic interplay between fashion, culture, and
manufacturing advancements. The 18th century introduced Rococo elegance
and intricate fabrics, while the 19th century embraced diverse Victorian styles
and saw the rise of industrial textiles. The 20th century witnessed the impact
of wars, social shifts, and technological progress, shaping fashion from
Edwardian grace to mid-century experimentation and late-century
individualism. This journey reflects how clothing and textiles mirror the
changing rhythms of English society over the centuries.

18TH CENTURY MENS COSTUME

In the 18th century, men's costume in England underwent notable changes,
reflecting the prevailing trends and social norms of the time. Here's a
description of the typical 18th-century men's costume in England:

*Early 18th Century (1700s):*

- *Coat:* Men's coats were generally knee-length and featured a loose fit,
often open at the front. The coat's design evolved from the flamboyant styles
of the late 17th century into more tailored and structured designs, reflecting
the emergence of the Rococo aesthetic.
*Waistcoat (Vest):* The waistcoat, worn underneath the coat, was an integral
part of men's attire. It was typically quite long and featured a deep V-neck.
Waistcoats were often elaborately embroidered and decorated.

- *Breeches:* Knee-length breeches were the norm for lower-body attire.

These fitted pants were fastened below the knee with decorative buckles or
buttons. Breeches were commonly made of fine fabrics like silk, velvet, or wool.

- *Shirt and Cravat:* Men wore shirts with large cuffs and neck cloths, which
later evolved into the cravat. The cravat was a precursor to the modern necktie
and was worn in various styles, often intricately tied or folded.

- *Stockings and Shoes:* Stockings, typically made of silk, wool, or cotton,

covered the legs and were held up with garters. Shoes were often made of
leather and had a square-shaped toe.

*Mid to Late 18th Century:*

- *Transition to Simplicity:* As the 18th century progressed, men's fashion

moved away from the flamboyant Rococo styles of the early century toward
more tailored and understated designs influenced by neoclassical ideals.

- *Coat:* Coats became more fitted, with narrower lapels and simpler lines.
The frock coat, a knee-length coat with a slightly flared skirt, gained popularity.

- *Waistcoat:* Waistcoats remained an important part of men's attire, often

featuring a high collar and a straight-cut bottom edge.

- *Breeches to Trousers:* Breeches gradually gave way to trousers during the

late 18th century. Trousers were full-length and closer in style to modern pants.

18TH CENTURY WOMEN’S COSTUME

Certainly, here's a brief overview of 18th-century women's costume in England:

*Early 18th Century (1700s):*

- *Dresses:* Women's dresses featured wide skirts with a focus on the back,
often supported by hoops or panniers. The bodice was fitted, and the neckline
varied from square to low-cut, showcasing décolletage.

- *Fabrics and Decoration:* Fine fabrics like silk, satin, and velvet were favored,
adorned with intricate embroidery, lace, and brocade. Gowns were often
embellished with ribbons, bows, and ruffles.

*Mid to Late 18th Century:*

- *Transition to Neoclassicism:* Fashion trends shifted to neoclassical

influences, inspired by ancient Greece and Rome. Dresses became lighter and
simpler in silhouette, with an emphasis on natural beauty.

*Fabrics and Colors:* Pastel colors became fashionable, and fabrics like muslin
and cotton gained popularity due to their lighter weight. Embroidery and
decoration were more delicate and focused on the neckline and cuffs.

- *Hair and Headwear:* Hair was often styled more naturally, adorned with
ribbons, feathers, and even small hats. The powdered wig trend began to
decline.

The 18th-century women's costume saw a transformation from opulent,

structured dresses to lighter, more graceful designs inspired by classical
aesthetics. These changes were reflective of broader shifts in societal norms
and artistic influences.

ACCESSORIES
EARLY 18TH CENTURY
MEN
Tricorn Hats: Three-cornered hats were a staple accessory, evolving in style and
ornamentation throughout the century.

Cane or Walking Stick: A fashionable accessory that often served both

decorative and practical purposes.
Pocket Watches: Worn on chains and kept in pockets, pocket watches were a
sign of status and convenience.

WOMEN
Fan: Elaborate folding fans were both practical and fashionable, used to stay
cool and convey messages through subtle movements.

Gloves: Long gloves were a common accessory, often made of fine materials
and adorned with embroidery or lace.

Jewelry: Delicate necklaces, earrings, brooches, and rings were worn. Precious
stones and pearls were popular choices.

MID TO LATE 18TH CENTURY

MEN
Tricorn or Bicorne Hats: Tricorns continued to be popular, and later in the
century, bicorne hats with two corners gained favor.

Wigs and Hair Powder: Powdered wigs were still worn by some, though
hairstyles became more natural as the century progressed.

Fob Watches: Smaller watches attached to a chain and kept in a pocket, often
displayed prominently.

WOMEN
Hair Accessories: Small hats, ribbons, and feathers adorned hairstyles. Wigs
became less common, and hair was styled with a more natural appearance.

Pendants and Necklaces: Necklaces with intricate pendants or lockets

containing portraits or mementos were fashionable.

Muffs: Hand-warming accessories made of fur or fabric, held as a status symbol

and functional accessory.
 19TH CENTURY
INTRODUCTION
The 19th century saw a diverse range of clothing styles that evolved
significantly over the century. From the Regency era's high-waisted dresses to
the Victorian era's crinolines and bustles, fashion during this time was
influenced by societal changes, industrialization, and cultural shifts. Clothing
reflected class distinctions and changing gender roles, showcasing a rich
tapestry of historical trends and innovations.

19TH CENTURY MENS COSTUME

Early 19th Century (Regency Era): Inspired by the style of the Prince Regent
(later King George IV), men's fashion featured high-waisted trousers, often
called "pantaloons," paired with tailcoats. Cravats were worn around the neck
instead of traditional neckties.

Mid-19th Century (Victorian Era - Early to Mid): The Victorian era saw a shift
towards more structured and formal attire. Frock coats and tailcoats remained
popular, while waistcoats (vests) became an essential part of a gentleman's
outfit. Trousers were often worn with suspenders.

Mid-19th Century (Victorian Era - Late): The mid-century saw the emergence
of the "dandy" style, where men wore elaborate outfits with bright colors, bold
patterns, and accessories like gloves, pocket watches, and walking sticks.
Cravats evolved into more elaborate neckties

Late 19th Century (Victorian Era - Late): Towards the late 19th century, three-
piece suits with matching jackets, vests, and trousers became more common
for formal occasions. The "sack suit," characterized by a looser fit, gained
popularity as everyday wear.

Late 19th Century (1890s): The tailcoat and formal attire continued, but there
was a growing acceptance of lounge suits for everyday wear. Trousers became
narrower, and the bowler hat or straw boater were common choices for
headwear.
19TH CENTURY WOMENS COSTUME
Early 19th Century (Regency Era): Women's dresses had high waistlines,
empire silhouettes, and often featured lightweight fabrics like muslin. Gowns
were characterized by their simplicity and delicate, flowing lines. The neckline
was often modest and the sleeves were short or elbow-length.

Mid-19th Century (Victorian Era - Early to Mid): The Victorian era brought
about fuller skirts thanks to the use of crinolines (hoop skirts) underneath.
Bodices became more fitted and sleeves could range from bell-shaped to
pagoda styles. Day dresses were often high-necked with long sleeves.

Mid-19th Century (Victorian Era - Late): The introduction of the bustle created
a distinct rear emphasis in the mid-century. Skirts maintained their fullness,
while bodices featured tight-fitting corsets. Necklines could be square, round,
or V-shaped, and the sleeves varied in style.

Late 19th Century (Victorian Era - Late): The "S-curve" silhouette became
fashionable, with emphasis on a prominent bust and derriere. Sleeves became
more elaborate, and the trend of combining contrasting fabrics and textures
emerged.

Late 19th Century (1890s): Silhouettes started to streamline, with a focus on

creating a slimmer figure. "Leg o' mutton" sleeves, puffed at the shoulder and
tapering to the wrist, were prominent. High collars, known as "chokers," were
popular, and the Gibson Girl look began to take shape. Early 1900s: Men - Suits
with wide lapels, fedora hats.

19TH CENTURY MENS ACCESSORIES

1920s: Men - Jazz suits, two-tone shoes.

1930s: Men - Three-piece suits, wide shoulders.

1940s: Men - Military-influenced suits, trench coats.

1950s: Men - Narrow suits, pompadours.

1960s: Men - Slim-cut suits, turtlenecks.

1970s: Men - Wide lapels, flared trousers.

1980s: Men - Power suits, padded shoulders.

1990s: Men - Casual grunge, baggy jeans.

19TH CENTURY WOMENS ACCESSORIES

Early 1900s: Women - S-shaped corsets, hobble skirts, large hats.

1920s: Women - Flapper dresses, cloche hats, bobbed hair.

1930s: Women - Bias-cut dresses, tailored suits, berets.

1940s: Women - Pencil skirts, victory rolls, utility fashion.

1950s: Women - Full skirts, petticoats, pearls, twinsets.

1960s: Women - Miniskirts, shift dresses, beehive hair.

1970s: Women - Bell-bottoms, maxi dresses, platform shoes.

1980s: Women - Power suits, shoulder pads, leg warmers.

1990s: Women - Slip dresses, flannel shirts, chokers.

20TH CENTURY
In 20th century England, men's fashion saw changes from formal attire in the
early part of the century to more relaxed styles later on. In the early 1900s,
men typically wore suits with high collars and tailored jackets. As the century
progressed, suits became more streamlined and eventually included features
like wider lapels and looser fits. In the 1960s, the "mod" style emerged with
slim-fitting suits and bold patterns.
For women, the fashion evolved significantly throughout the century. In the
early 1900s, Edwardian styles featured high collars, long skirts, and corsets. The
1920s brought about the flapper look with shorter dresses, dropped waists,
and more relaxed silhouettes. The 1940s saw utility fashion during World War
II, with simpler designs due to fabric rationing. The 1950s emphasized a return
to femininity with full skirts and cinched waists, while the 1960s showcased
shifts towards miniskirts and bold patterns.

MENS COSTUME
1900s-1910s (Edwardian Era): Men typically wore formal suits with high collars,
waistcoats, and tailored jackets. The suits were often accessorized with bow
ties, pocket watches, and hats like the bowler or top hat.

1920s (Roaring Twenties): This decade saw the emergence of more relaxed and
casual styles. Suits became less structured, with wider trousers and shorter
jackets. The "Oxford bags" style featured wide-legged trousers. The influence of
the jazz age brought about looser fits and more comfortable clothing.

1930s: Suits retained their relaxed fit, but the trousers became narrower.
Double-breasted suits gained popularity. Pinstripes and checkered patterns
were common. Accessories like suspenders and fedora hats were fashionable.

1940s: World War II had an impact on fashion due to rationing. Suits became
plainer and more utilitarian. Three-piece suits declined, and single-breasted
suits with broader shoulders and wider lapels came into vogue.

1950s: The post-war era saw a return to more polished styles. Suits had broad
shoulders, narrow waists, and tapered trousers. Gray flannel suits became
iconic. The "teddy boy" style introduced longer jackets, high-waisted trousers,
and narrow ties.

1960s: The mod movement brought about slim-fitting suits with shorter jackets
and narrow lapels. Patterns like houndstooth and checks gained popularity. By
the mid-1960s, the "Peacock Revolution" introduced more colorful and daring
styles.

1970s: Suits in this era had wider lapels, flared trousers, and bold patterns.
Casual styles with open-neck shirts and leisure suits became popular.

1980s: Power suits dominated the scene with broad shoulders, boxy
silhouettes, and pinstripes. Bright colors and bold patterns were prominent.
The "New Romantic" trend introduced frilly shirts and eccentric accessories.

1990s: The 1990s brought a mix of casual and grunge styles. Baggy suits with
relaxed fits were popular, influenced by the rise of hip-hop culture. Towards the
end of the decade, minimalist styles gained traction.
WOMENS COSTUME
1900s-1910s (Edwardian Era): Women's fashion was characterized by the S-
shaped silhouette with a small waist and a full bust and hips. High-necked
blouses, long skirts, and elaborate hats were common. Corsets were still widely
worn.

1920s (Roaring Twenties): The iconic flapper style emerged, featuring dropped
waistlines, straight and loose-fitting dresses, and shorter hemlines. Women's
fashion became more relaxed and functional, with a focus on movement and
comfort.

1930s:The Great Depression influenced fashion, leading to more practical and

conservative styles. Bias-cut dresses, A-line skirts, and tailored suits gained
popularity. Shoulder pads and natural waistlines were characteristic.

1940s: World War II brought fabric rationing, leading to shorter hemlines and
narrower silhouettes. Daytime dresses had a more utilitarian look, while
evening dresses became more elegant and often featured padded shoulders.

1950s: This era was marked by a return to femininity and glamour. Full skirts,
cinched waistlines, and petticoats created the iconic "hourglass" silhouette. The
New Look introduced by Christian Dior showcased luxurious fabrics and
voluminous skirts.

1960s: The mod style influenced the 1960s, with shifts towards more youthful
and daring clothing. Mini skirts, A-line dresses, and bold patterns were popular.
The later part of the decade saw the emergence of more bohemian and hippie-
inspired fashion.
1970s:The 1970s brought diverse styles, including disco, bohemian, and punk
influences. Bell-bottom trousers, platform shoes, and maxi dresses were iconic.
Bold patterns, earthy tones, and wide collars were also characteristic.

1980s: Power dressing was a defining feature of the 1980s. Women wore
shoulder-padded blazers, oversized tops, and bold accessories. Athleisure wear
and neon colors were prominent trends.

1990s: Grunge and minimalism were prevalent in the 1990s. Slip dresses,
flannel shirts, and denim were popular. Towards the late '90s, there was a mix
of minimalist styles and more flamboyant fashion influenced by pop culture.

MENS ACCESSORIES
Hats: The early part of the century saw the continuation of formal hat styles
like the bowler hat and the Homburg hat. Fedora hats gained popularity in the
1920s and 1930s. By the mid-20th century, the hat's popularity began to
decline.
Ties:Ties were a staple accessory throughout the century. Neckties in various
patterns and colors were worn with suits. Bow ties were also popular,
especially for formal occasions.

Pocket Watches: Pocket watches were widely used in the early 20th century.
They were often attached to a chain and kept in the vest pocket.

Cufflinks: Cufflinks were essential for fastening the cuffs of dress shirts. They
came in various designs, from simple to ornate, and were often made from
precious metals.

Tie Clips and Tie Bars: These accessories were used to keep the tie in place and
prevent it from moving. They often added a touch of elegance to the overall
look.

Braces (Suspenders): Braces were used to hold up trousers before belts became
more common. They were often worn under a waistcoat and were occasionally
visible when the jacket was removed.

Handkerchiefs: Men carried handkerchiefs in their breast pockets for practical

purposes. They were often made from fine fabrics and could be used for
various tasks.

Cigarette Cases: In the earlier part of the century, carrying a cigarette case was
considered stylish. These cases were often made from metals and could hold
cigarettes in a neat and organized manner.
Tie Pins and Tie Chains: These accessories were used to secure the tie to the
shirt and prevent it from swinging. They also added a touch of sophistication to
the outfit.

Collar Pins and Bars: Collar pins were used to hold the collar in place and were
a common accessory for formal dress shirts.

Hat Pins: Hat pins were used to secure hats, particularly larger ones, to the
wearer's hair or hat band.

WOMENS ACCESSORIES

Hats: In the early part of the century, wide-brimmed hats adorned with
feathers, ribbons, and flowers were fashionable. Cloche hats gained popularity
in the 1920s, and pillbox hats became iconic in the 1960s.
Gloves: Gloves were a common accessory for women throughout the century.
In the early years, long gloves were worn with formal dresses. Short gloves,
often made of delicate fabrics, became popular for daytime wear.

Handbags: Handbags evolved over the century. In the early 1900s, small purses
and reticules were carried. In the 1920s, the introduction of more practical
handbags coincided with the rise of the flapper style.

Jewelry :The 20th century saw a wide range of jewelry styles. Art Deco
influences in the 1920s brought about geometric designs, while the mid-
century embraced pearls, diamonds, and statement pieces. The 1960s brought
a trend of bold, colorful jewelry.

Scarves: Scarves were versatile accessories that could be worn around the
neck, tied in the hair, or even as belts. They came in various materials, patterns,
and sizes.

Belts: Belts were worn to cinch the waist and add definition to dresses and
skirts. Wide belts were popular in the 1950s, and more decorative styles
emerged in subsequent decades.

Stockings and Tights: Stockings were essential, and in the earlier part of the
century, they were often held up with garters. In the 1960s, tights gained
popularity as skirts and dresses became shorter.

Brooches and Pins: Brooches were a versatile accessory that could be pinned to
dresses, coats, or hats. They came in various shapes and designs, from intricate
cameos to whimsical motifs.
Hair Accessories: Hair accessories like hairpins, barrettes, and headbands were
often used to add flair to hairstyles. Decorative combs and tiaras were also
popular for formal occasions.

Sunglasses: Sunglasses became more popular in the mid-20th century as both a

fashion statement and practical accessory.

Perfume: Perfume was a finishing touch to an ensemble. Elegant bottles and

various scents were considered a luxurious accessory.