Topic: principles of opening and clearing

What is opening:Opening is the disentanglement of compressed fiber packages into single fibers.

What is cleaning:Cleaning is the removal of particles such as wood, leaf, or seed coat fragments (cotton)
or fiber knots and neps that cannot be opened.

Parallelizing leads to an orientation of the fibers in one direction.A section in which compressed bales
are opened, cleaned and blending or mixing to form uniforms lap of specific length is called Blow room
section.

Opening: Opening is the first operation in the blow room carried out to the stage of Flocks. ln the-
blow room and to the stage of individual fibers in the cards.

In the stages of the opening, machines with an opening function have the task of separating clumps of
fiber into smaller ones. The sizes of the clumps, and of the teeth that deal with them, are progressively
reduced. In general terms, grasping clumps of fibers with sets of teeth and dragging the clumps across
another set of teeth or grids perform the opening function.After the appropriate fiber properties have
been decided on, the selected bales are prepared and arranged for their placement into a laydown. A
typical laydown may include as few as 40 bales or as many as 90 or more.

This configuration ensures proper dispersion of the many different variables from bale to bale and
also places them in a position that the top feeder or bale plucker can use them. Usually, this is in a linear
fashion but other methods of feeding may also be found.The bale plucker moves back and forth along
the laydown removing just a small amount of fiber from each bale on every pass. This ensures adequate
blending by minimizing the amount of fiber removed from each bale and maximizes the number of bales
fed per unit time.

From the plucker, the opened tufts are moved along using fans, airflow, and a series of ducts, much like
those used in the heating and air conditioning systems in residential and commercial buildings. The fiber
flows in this fashion and is directed to the next machine in this process

To further ensure good blending, a multi-cell blender may be used. This machine randomly fills and then
empties its chambers back into the process flow.

Cleaning: With cotton, there are often seed coat fragments attached to them. It is difficult to remove
some of the extraneous matter without vigorous mechanical action and without adequate opening.
Every time a clump of fibers is divided, a new surface is exposed from which it is relatively easy to
remove the loose unwanted matter (trash).From the opening and blending processes, the open fiber
tufts are transported to the first of what may be multiple cleaning machines or steps. The first cleaning
machines are usually designed to be coarse cleaners. That is, they are designed to remove the larger and
heavier trash particles. Fine cleaners will be found last in the cleaning line and just before carding.
Cleaning machines use a number of very basic principles in order to accomplish their goal. The trash or
unwanted contents in the opened tufts of fiber are normally denser and heavier than the good fiber.

These principles take advantage of this. The machines’ designs use gravity, centrifugal force, and airflow
combined with some type of beating action.

Usually, grid bars may be found under the beaters in most cleaning machines. The unwanted trash falls
out between the bars and is sucked away to a central collection point. The grid bars can be adjusted to
take out more or less trash depending on the fiber being used, the spinning process, and the end
product requirements.

BLENDING

blending, in yarn production, process of combining fibres of different origins, length, thickness, or colour
to make yarn.

Blended textiles are fabrics or yarns produced with a combination of two or more types of different
fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits and aesthetics. Blending is possible at various stages of textile
manufacturing. The term, blend, refers to spun fibers or a fabric composed of such fibers.

Blending is accomplished before spinning and is performed to impart such desirable characteristics as
strength or durability, to reduce cost by combining expensive fibres with less costly types, to achieve
special colour or texture effects. Fabrics made from such fibres are called blends.Blended textiles are
made up of a mix of two or more different raw fibres. These are spun together to create yarns and in
turn textiles that have the most desirable properties of the original raw fibres. When the fibres are
dispersed evenly in the yarn the blend is called an "intimate blend".

Objectives or purposes of blending of yarn in the textile industry

(a) to ensure uniform properties of yarn.

{b) to reduce variation in fabrics.

(c) to minimize small differences in dyeing from lot to lot

(d) to exploit the peculiar characteristics of each component of the blend to the full

{e) to reduce cost.

Classification of blending

a)Bale blending: Blending can be done before the blowroom.

b)Flock blending: Blending is done in the blowroom.

c) Lap blending: Blending is done at the scutcher.

d)Web blending: Blending is done at ribbon lap machine or drawframe.

Blending is sometimes misplaced as mixing,mixing is described as the process of combining wet and
dry materials While Blending is the term used to describe the process of combining only dry ingredients.

Polyester is a man made fiber with high abrasion resistance and cotton is a natural fiber and has
good moisture absorbency and feel.

Wool/ nylon blend is another example, a good end-use is in carpets.

Nylon is a man-made fiber with high abrasion resistance and wool is a natural fiber and is springy and
resilient. The nylon improves the abrasion resistance and the wool contributes warmth and resilience.

Among the many reason for blending, achieving the improvements or variation in aesthetics
performance and economics is the main.

A. Aesthetics:

Appearance

Color

Luster

Surface texture

Cover

Drape

Hand and touch

Liveliness

Fullness
Firmness

Loftiness

Dryness

Smoothness

Softness

B. Performance:

Functional (end use)

Wrinkle resistance

Warmth and comfort

Durability

Fastness

Processing

Tailorability

C. Economics:

Fiber cost

Blend composition

Processing

Spinnability and weavability

Dyeing and finishing

In conclusion blending is a important contribution in the textile industry.

Topic: Detailed study of blow room machinery for different varieties and grades of cotton
 The section where the supplied compressed cotton bale turns into a uniform lap of particular length
by opening, cleaning, blending or, mixing is called blow room section. It is the first step of spinning.

The main objective of blow room is to separate good fibers from impurities like - dust, leaves,
trash, seed coats and lint. The waste extracted is known as blow room droppings. Good quality of yarn,
fibers should be free from these impurities gor spinning.

Objectives of Blowroom Section:

Objectives of a blowroom line are as follows:

1)Opening: To open the compressed fibers up to very small tufts

2)Cleaning: To remove the impurities like seed fragments, stem pieces, leaf particles, neps, short fibers,
dust and sand

3)Mixing and blending: To make homogenous mixture of the material

4)De-dusting: To extract the dust if present

5)Uniform feed for card: To convert the mass of fibers into thick sheet called lap which should be
uniform length and width wise or to provide output in the form of tufts of optimum size

These are the five main functions of a blow room section.

Blowroom

In the present day, the blowroom process spinning technology has undergone a large significant degree
of changes in terms of recovery of good fibers, degree of opening, the intensity of cleaning, reduced the
number of machines, and removal of a large amount of contaminants. The quality of yarn depends upon
the detection and removal of contaminants from cotton lint..

Storage and feeding machines – The three feeding equipment are commonly seen in blowroom. This
equipment includes clamped feed roller, two feed roller and feed table with roller and pedals.

To carry out this line of operations, the sequence of different machines is necessary. However; the
requirement of assembly in blowroom depends on many factors such as type and characteristics of raw
material, type of waste and dirt content, number of different sources of material in a blend etc. The
modern blowroom assembly consists of machines such as

Bale openers – The variety of bale openers machinery is available today. These machines can
operate on a variety of raw materials like rayon, viscose and other man-made fibers including cotton.
Pre-cleaners – The opening process is followed by cleaning of fibers. If higher degree of opening is
achieved, higher the degree of cleaning is achieved. But higher cleaning effects result in more fiber loss.
High roller speed offers better cleaning but puts more stress on the fiber. You will find a variety of pre-
cleaners and cleaning machinery which offers gentle treatments and reduce fiber loss remarkably.

Mixers – Plenty of mixers and blenders have been developed to give maximum blending and
homogeneity to the mixing. This hoppers and chutes also acts as a storage/ reservoir of fibers.

Storage and feeding machines – The three feeding equipment are commonly seen in blowroom. This
equipment includes clamped feed roller, two feed roller and feed table with roller and pedals.

The modern blowroom machinery accompanies air streams to separate the trash from the fibers.
There are many factors affecting the degree of cleaning, opening and fiber loss. Some of these factors
include fiber coherence and alignment, degree of penetration, speed and type of opening device, air
flow through grid, grid setting, thickness and density of feed web etc.

The line of this machinery has made it easy to couple different devices and carry out different processes
to get fine clean fibers. This assembly gives optimum performance, increases speed and quality of the
processes reducing fiber loss.

Common Faults in Blowroom:

1)Neps formation.

2)High variation and blowroom lap weight.

3)Poor cleaning efficiency.

4)Cotton not opened properly.

5)Conical lap.

6)Holes in the lap.

7)Excessive lint loss.

8)Recent development

Recent development of Blowroom line:

1)Improved input action blendomat / uniflock.

2)Optiscan.

3)Electronic/Computer based system for each machine.

4)Different new machines like CVT, CVT3, CLC1, CLC3, CL-U, SP-FPO,SP-FPU, TO-T1, TO-T3 and SP-EM
etc.

5)Better cleaning efficiency of special types of cylindrical saw toothed beater.

6)Better suction and waste management system.

7)Improved safety device.

Lap is the output material of the blow room line when the input material for carding. Blow room is the
section where raw material such as compressed bale is fed to convert them into sliver lap.

During textile manufacturing, the operating zone of the blow room plays a vital role in ensuring that
raw fibers are clean, uniform, and suitable for subsequent processing stages. It plays a crucial role in
preparing raw fibers for further processing.

Air temperature in the blowroom should be above 23°C and relative humidity should be in the 45 -
50% range. Damp air makes for poor cleaning and over-dry air leads to fiber damage. It should be borne
in mind, however, that it is not the condition of the air that matters, but that of the fibers.

Cotton is the raw material or input material of blow room. Different types of grade cotton are used in
the blow room unit.

Flow Chart of Blow Room Line for Medium Grade Cotton

Bale opener

Hopper feeder

Porcupine opener

Crighton opener

↓
Cage condenser

Hopper feeder

Porcupine beater

18” beater

Dust tank

Two-way distribution

Hopper feeder with reserve box

Scutcher

Topic: Recent developments (principles of carding Systems)

A carder is a machine that reduces entangled mass of fibers to a filmy web by working them
between two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with sharp points.

What is the principle of carding?

Carding: As the cotton is fed into the machine, it passes between a series of rollers covered with wire
clothing. These rollers have fine wire teeth that comb the fibers, separating and straightening them.

Carding is defined s the reduction of entangled mass of fibers to filmy web by working them
between two closely spaced relatively moving surfaces clothed with sharp points. It is a preliminary
process in spun yarn technology just after blowroom process. Carding operation is done by carding
machine. In this article I will discuss about recent or modern or new or latest development in carding
machine.
 Functions of Carding Machine:

1)Opening up to individual fibers

2)Elimination of impurities

3)Disentanglement of neps

4)Elimination of dust

5)Elimination of short fibers

6)Fiber blending

7)Fiber orientation or alignment

8)Sliver formation

The most recent development in carding machine are given below:

a)Higher production rate up to 250 kg/hour

b)Direct feeding system FBK: Chute feed

c)Feed rate control system: CFD (CORRECTA FEED)

d)Multiple licker-in system: 3 Licker-in

e)Precision Flat Setting System PFS

f)Precision Mote Knife Setting System PMS

g)Aluminum flats without bolted connection

h)Computer control with Touch Screen

I)Electronic Flat Measuring System FLATCONTROL TC-NCT

j)ON-line nep counting with NEPCONTROL TCC-NCT

k)Waste quality measuring with WASTECONTROL TC-WCT

l)Digitally controlled, maintenance-free servodrives

m)Integrated Carding Grinding system:

n)IGS Tops

o)IGS Classic

p)Magnetic flat bar: MAGNA TOP

q)Integrated and continuous suction system

v)Larger can size: 1000X1200 mm

w)Roller doffing system

Other recent development are as follows:

-Chute feed System,

-Pre- Carding Zone,

-Multiple Taker-in (Licker-in),

-Carding Zone,

-Post Carding Zone,

-Suction System,

-Wab Doffing Device,

-Auto leveling, and

-Coiler & Can Changer.

There are three areas in any carding machine. These are:

a)Opening and Cleaning area

b)Carding area
c)Sliver formation

The main segments of carding machine are covered by card clothing. These metal cloth with
sharp wire. The wire looses its sharpness due to metal to metal or metal to fiber friction. That’s why it
needs re-sharpening. The process re- sharpening he car clothing wire is called grinding.

The carding section consists of a large cylinder covered in card clothing, which comprises
closely spaced wire teeth. As the cylinder rotates, the fibers are drawn onto its surface. The cylinder's
wire teeth comb through the fibers, further aligning them and removing any remaining impurities or
shorter fibers.

There are two types of carder namely:

a) hand carder

b)drum carder

Two primary types of carding tools are commonly used in home spinning: 1. Hand Carders: Hand
carders are portable, handheld devices consisting of two wooden paddles, each covered in carding cloth.
They are operated by hand and are ideal for small-scale carding and blending.

Different types of carding machine:

a)Roller and clearer card

b)Stationary flat card

c)Revolving flat card

In the era of modern science the carding machine also discovered new and easy to use by depend on
setting and setup the cylinder and take in. Out modern carding machine gives us extra care about the
fiber and make them more smooth and useable. The another different design and style carding
machines are

-Dual carding machine

-Mono or single carding machine

-Tandom carding machine

-Schubert & sulzer super carding machine

 Tips for Handling Carding

1. Fiber Selection: Choose fibers that are suitable for carding, considering their length, strength, and
compatibility with the carding process. Longer and stronger fibers generally result in a better quality
web or sliver.

2. Cleanliness: Ensure that the fibers are clean and free from impurities before carding to avoid
contamination and damage to the machinery.

3. Adjustments: Properly set the machine's settings, such as the feed rate, carding speed, and wire
density, to optimize the carding process and achieve the desired quality and consistency.

4. Regular Maintenance: Perform routine maintenance and cleaning of the carding machine to prevent
build-up of fibers and ensure smooth operation.

Topic: principles of roller drafting system

In the textile industry, drafting refers to the process of attenuating or reducing the thickness
of fibers to create yarns of desired fineness and strength. This critical step in textile production
determines the quality and properties of the final fabric.

Roller setting is the process of positioning the machine's rollers depending on the fiber
length and the distance between the centers of the pair of rollers. The roller setting of the drafting zone
in any machine usually depends on the staple length or effective length of the fiber being processed by
that machine.

In a roller drafting system, the rollers run at higher speeds from the back- to the front-
rollers and in the process the fibres are redistributed over a longer length of the fibre strand and the
fibre strand becomes thinner, i.e. with fewer fibres in the cross-section of the final fibre strand
 The function of a roller drafting system is to convert fibre into yarn

The roller drafting system drafts the input sliver into a ribbon-like parallel fibre strand.

In a ring spinning machine mostly 3-over-3 roller with a double apron drafting system is used to produce
yarn from roving. The bottom rollers are made of steel and the top rollers are covered with synthetic
rubber.

Example of regular drafting system without apron:

-Conventional three roller system.

-Improved system.

-H and B four rollers long draft system.

-5 over 4 roller systems.

The drive for the drafting rollers is a rigid one (by gears) and the spindle is driven by a
flexible drive (belt). The initial belt tensions on both sides of the spindle are the same while the machine
is at rest. When the ring-spinning machine is started, the belt tension in the forward direction increases,
and at the back it decreases enough to build up the required torque on the spindle. Additional slackness
present on the spindle belt compounds the problem. The acceleration of the spindle lags behind that of
the drafting rollers and the yarn slackens; if it slackens too much, this might lead to balloon instability
and the end breaks. Delaying the starting of the drafting rollers by a few seconds would solve this
problem. In the Marzoli ring-spinning machine, at the beginning of cop build-up, the starting of the
drafting rollers is delayed so that the spindle starts to rotate first, which tightens the initial yarn ends

The drafting arrangement is the heart of draw frame and thus the part which influence the
quality. The requirements placed on the drafting arrangement in general is correspondingly high.
Simple, uncomplicated construction. Stable design with the smooth running of the rollers.

The delivery (or front) rollers have a higher surface speed than the feed- in (or back) rollers. The
amount of draft produced in roller drafting is calculated from the ratio of the surface speeds or the ratio
of the linear density of the input sliver(s) to the linear density of the output sliver.

The following drafting systems are used in speed frame:

4 – over – 4, two zone drafting system.

Two-zone apron drafting, (4 – over 4), aprons are adjusted on 2nd top and bottom roller, better fibre
control and higher drafting can be attained with this drafting system at the speed frame.

2 – over – 3 drafting system, this gives effective grip on the fibre, usually suitable for synthetic fibre, less
slippage of fibres in this drafting system.

4 – over – 4 graduated roller drafting system.

3 – over – 3 drafting system.

The formular for draft plan is written below

Draft = (Feed wt. x Doubling) / Delivery wt.

Classification of Drafting Plan

1)Straight Draft

Straight draft is the most common and can be used with any number of shafts. Each successive thread is
drawn on successive shafts, the first thread on the first shaft, the second thread on the second shaft,
and so on. The last thread of the warp repeat is drawn on the last shaft. Thus the number of shafts
equals the warp repeat and the repeat of draft equals the warp repeat.

Uses: Used in twill design.

2)Pointed Draft

Pointed drafts are used where the straight draft cannot be applied. This draft can be considered as a
combination of straight drafts. A straight draft is returned in the opposite direction at a predetermined
point. The first and last heald shafts equals to half of the number of threads in warp repeat.

Uses: Used to produce fabric with symmetrical design e.g. jig-jag twill, Diamond.

3)Skip Draft

The warp ends are threaded in an irregular way. Warp ends with the same action are threaded through
the same shaft. The number of heald used is multiple of two or more than the number of threads in one
repeat. In case of the plain weave, may be drawn on two healds, if the cloth is coarse; or on four healds,
if the cloth is of medium fineness; or on six healds, if the cloth is very fine.

Uses: This system is particularly useful in weaving very densely fabric

4)Broken Draft

It can be considered as modified pointed draft. Again it is a combination of straight drafts with different
directions of constructing. But the direction is reversed not on the last or the first shaft. When the
direction is reversed the first thread of the next group is started higher or lowers than the last thread of
the preceding group. This small modification changes considerably the design by breaking the axis of
symmetry. The order of interlacing of the last thread of the first group is opposite to that of the first
thread of the preceding group.

Uses: This draft is applied for producing herringbone twills, diaper design and etc.

5)Divided Draft

The shafts are divided into two or more groups. A suitable type of draft is chosen for each group. The
divided draft is employed for double-warp fabric. There are two systems of warp threads: The face and
back ones.

Uses: The draft is employed for derived weaves, double warp weaves, two ply weaves, pile weaves etc

6)Grouped Draft

Two sets of stripes are used in two set heald shafts. Warp of each group passed through a particular
group of healds adjacently and the other set of warp is inserted through another group of heald
adjacently.

Uses: This draft is used for producing check and stripe fabric.

7)Curved Draft

The minimal number of shafts equals the number of threads in warp repeat with different order of
interlacing. The drawing-in is done applying the rule: All warp threads which works alike are drawn on
the same shaft. They are irregular and cannot be classified.

Uses: Used to produce decorated weave with large repeat unit.

8)Combined Draft

It is a very complicated type of draft. It can be chosen if there are some technological or economical
reasons. Great experience is required for such drafting plan.

Uses: In producing some special type of fabrics different type of drafts are required to be mixed.
 Topic:Detailed study of drawing frame mechanisms

Draw Frame is the operation by which slivers are blended, doubled and leveled. In short staple
spinning the term is only applied to the process at a draw frame. In drawing slivers are elongated when
passing through a group of pair rollers, each pair is moving faster than previous one.

drawing frame, Machine for drawing, twisting, and winding yarn. Invented in the 1730s by Lewis
Paul and John Wyatt, the spinning machine operated by drawing cotton or wool through pairs of
successively faster rollers.

drawing, in yarn manufacture, process of attenuating the loose assemblage of fibres called sliver
(q.v.) by passing it through a series of rollers, thus straightening the individual fibres and making them
more parallel. Each pair of rollers spins faster than the previous one.

The basic purpose of the drawframe passages is to obtain a uniform and well- blended sliver
through the doubling action at the drawframe and, by the drafting action, to parallelize and straighten
fibres, particularly those with hooked ends – whether leading, trailing or both ends.

Drawframe is one of the important machines in yarn spinning line. It is prepared for combining and
drawing slivers and removing card irregularities of textile fibres.

The structure of the draw frame. The draw frame usually consists of a feeding part, a drafting part,
a sliver part and some automatic devices.

The drafting system is the key responsible area for the drafting of sliver in a draw frame machine. It
plays a decisive role in drawing process performance. The quality and production rate definitely depends
upon the working performance of the drafting system.

Draw frame is also known as drawing. The process by which the yarn or fiber is elongated by
passing it through a series of pair of rollers, each pair moving faster than the previous one is called
drawing or draw frame.Draw frames should be stopped each week and the top drafting rolls should be
removed, inspected and cleaned with cleaning fluid or solvent. Any cut or damaged rolls should be
replaced. The eight-hour cleaning cycle should be performed prior to putting frame back into production

Objectives of Drawing

-To straighten the crimped and hooked fibres in the card sliver.

-To improve the short medium and long term unevenness of the sliver by doubling.

-To produce a more uniform sliver.

-To achieve a fairly through parallelization of the fibre along the sliver axis.

-To reduce the knot/unit length of card sliver.

-To mix the fibre intimately.

-To make the perfect blend of fibre.

-To remove the dirt, dust from carded sliver.

Terms of Draw Frame

a)Doubling

The process of combing two or more sliver roving’s or yarns into one is called doubling. This term is not
restricted to the combination of two units only.

b)Draft

The reduction of weight / yard of sliver and the increase in length is called drafting. Or Attenuation of
sliver without breaking is called draft.

c)Drafting

The process of attenuating or increasing length per unit weight of sliver. It is mainly due to the
peripheral speed of the roller.

There are two types of drawing frames

a)Breaker :during this process 8 silvers produced by carding machine are paralellized to produce one
sliver.

b)Finisher:it is done to give furthur strength and stability to the sliver. The drawn sliver from breaker
draw frame is again drawn.In this process the sliver drawn in the breaker draw frame furthur used.
 Topic : Drafting system recent development

What is drafting in textile;Drafting: Drafting is the process by which the weight of a single length is
reduced by pulling the slivers regularly and evenly to reduce the weight of the unit length to prepare the
next delivery sliver, roving, or yarn.

Drafting is the creation of a drawing or other graphical representation of a building, mechanical device
or other structure for the purposes of determining how the device should be created. Drafting is used as
a part of the design and fabrication processes.

Drafting in textile refers to the process of creating a pattern or a design layout for a piece of fabric,
which serves as a blueprint for subsequent production. It is a crucial step in the garment manufacturing
industry, where precision and accuracy are essential to ensure that the final product meets desired
specifications. By using drafting techniques, textile designers can bring their creative ideas to life and
transform them into tangible garments.

Principles of Drafting in Textile

The process of drafting begins with the initial concept or idea. This could be inspired by various sources
such as current fashion trends, cultural influences, or personal creativity. Once the designer has
envisioned their creation, they start translating it onto paper through precise measurements and
calculations.
 After gathering all necessary measurements, the designer starts sketching out rough outlines on
pattern-making paper or digital software. These outlines serve as guides for shaping various parts of the
garment such as sleeves, collars, bodices, skirts, etc., depending on its intended design. The designer
carefully considers factors like ease allowance (extra room for movement) and seam allowances (space
needed for stitching) while drawing these outlines.

This mechanical speed difference, and the slipping action imparted to the gripped fibers, is called
draft or drafting. This is where the drawing process gets its name. The machine draws out the slivers
being fed and reduces their total weight back down to the approximate weight of one sliver.

Textile drafting is a fundamental process in the textile industry that involves creating patterns
or designs for weaving or knitting fabrics. It plays a crucial role in determining the structure, appearance,
and performance of the final fabric. There are various types of drafting techniques used in textiles, each
with its own unique characteristics and applications. In this essay, we will explore some of the most
commonly employed drafting methods.

i. Straight Drafting

Straight drafting is perhaps the simplest and most straightforward method used in textile
manufacturing. It involves arranging yarns parallel to each other throughout the entire fabric width. This
type of drafting results in a plain weave pattern where each warp yarn passes over one weft yarn, and
then under the next.

ii. Point Drafting

Point drafting is a technique that allows for intricate and complex weave patterns to be created by using
multiple harnesses or shafts on a loom. The design is achieved by lifting different combinations of these
harnesses at specific points during weaving, which creates various interlacing effects between warp and
weft threads.

iii. Treadle Drafting

Treadle drafting expands upon point drafting by introducing foot pedals or treadles into the weaving
process. Each pedal corresponds to one shaft or harness on the loom, enabling more elaborate weave
structures to be produced with greater ease and efficiency.

iv. Network Drafting

Network drafting is a versatile technique primarily used for creating highly detailed woven designs such
as damasks or brocades with intricate motifs and patterns. It involves mapping out every thread
intersection within a repeat unit onto graph paper before transferring it onto punched cards or
computer software that controls modern computerized looms.

v. Profile Drafting

Profile drafting allows for greater flexibility when designing complex weave structures by utilizing profile
drafts – graphical representations of how individual warp threads interact with different sets of weft
threads throughout the fabric's width – rather than traditional threading drafts where all warp ends
follow uniform paths.

vi. Block Drafting

Block drafting involves dividing the fabric into blocks or sections, each with its own distinct threading
and treadling patterns. This technique enables weavers to create intricate designs by combining multiple
block units in various arrangements.

vii. Shadow Weave Drafting

Shadow weave drafting is employed to produce fabrics that give the illusion of a woven pattern
emerging from a smooth background. By alternating light and dark threads in both warp and weft,
different shadow effects can be achieved, resulting in visually appealing textiles.
viii. Double Cloth Drafting

Double cloth drafting allows for the creation of reversible fabrics by combining two layers of fabric
interlaced together during weaving. The top and bottom layers can have different patterns or colors,
offering versatility and design possibilities.

Importance of drafting in textiles

One important aspect of textile drafting is understanding body measurements and proportions.
Garments need to fit well and be comfortable when worn; therefore, accurate measurement-taking
plays a significant role in capturing these dimensions correctly on paper. These measurements form the
basis for creating patterns that will eventually shape the fabric into finished garments.

Overall, drafting plays a pivotal role in the textile industry by bridging the gap between creativity and
production. It enables designers to bring their visions to life while ensuring that each garment adheres
to predetermined measurements and specifications. Through careful planning, precise calculations, and
skilled execution during the drafting process, textiles can evolve from simple concepts into beautifully
crafted pieces ready for wear.

Topic: objectives of comber lap preparation

Lap preparation is the important step before combing operation, which influences the quality of the
combed sliver. The requirements of the lap for the good performance of combing are good fiber
orientation, leading hooks presentation, and uniform thickness. The combers are fed with fiber lap
produced by doubling several slivers and webs.

Lap preparation for combers:

It is a process of making flat laps by combining multiple slivers. It is the important process in the
combing process that influences the quality of the combed sliver. To ensure straight and parallel fibers
fed. To reduce strain on combing cylinder and top comb.
Blow-room, 1st drawing machine, and after carding or pre-comb drawing machine is used in spinning a
line to make combed yarn. The sliver obtained from carding or drawing is used to prepare the mini lap
with the help of a sliver lap machine or super lap machine. The preparation of the slivers before feeding
to the combing machine is called preparation for combing. Since this preparation is preceded by lap
preparation, this preparation phase can also be called lap preparation

The necessities of lap preparation before combing:

The reasons why it is necessary to prepare a mini lap with a carding/drawing sliver before feeding to the
combing machine are described below.

1. The parts of the sliver first obtained from the carding machine are scattered in different directions, it
is driven in one passage or two passage drawings for alignment and parallelism. Prepared by drawing
and parallel fibers from the drawing, it is first prepared for feeding in sliver and later in mini lap
combing.

2. When the fibers are straight and parallel, it is easy to remove short fibers from the mini lap sheet.

3. It is easy to control the appropriate amount of waste (noil) from the mini lap sheet.

4. If the fibers are not straight and parallel, the larger fibers may be removed along with the shorter
fibers, thus increasing the production cost.

5. If the mini lap is not of balanced weight, the cylinder comb and top comb will not be able to combine
the mini lap sheet well. On the one hand, such waste will increase. The needle of the comb, on the other
hand, may break.

Contribution of Comber to Yarn Quality:

1)To improve the uniformity and strength

2)Improve the spinning value of fiber.

3)Reduce the neps in the yarn.

4)Improve smoothness and luster of yarn.

5)Produce much clear yarn.

6)Improve the efficiency of the next process.

7)Reduce the hairiness of the yarn.

8)Improve better twist distribution in the yarn.

Lap Former Machine:

To get quality yarn, I mean combed yarn before combing process lap former machine is used. It is also
called combing preparation machine. The lap former has, furthermore, the task of forming the
interfacing or lap, which is employed to feed the comber machine. The lap is obtained by doubling a
certain number of slivers

The importance of lap preparation is as follows:

i)Fibres from carded sliver are not well oriented and may lie in all directions.

ii)Most of the fibres arc hooked.

iii)To avoid excessive strain on comber needles.

iv)to avoid loss of good fibres in the nods.

v)To get high degree of evenness in transverse direction.

vi)Features of Lap

Objectives of Comber:

To remove the short fibers below a pre-selected length so that the spinner enable to produce finer or
better quality of yarn that cannot be possible in carding state. Elimination of remaining impurities.
Elimination of large proportion (not all) of the neps in the fiber.

Faults in Combing Process:

a) Cutting across: Thick and thin places across the width of the web.
Causes:

The fault originates in the laps owing to the use of incorrect setting, excessive draft at the lap former.

Incorrect timing of the detaching roller.

Top comb setting too deeply.

b) Curling: The term is applied when a group of fibers curls as they leave detaching roller.

Causes:

Faulty detaching roller covering.

Dirt in the top detaching rollers.

Excessive brush speed.

Bent needle of cylinder and top comb.

c) Cotton not combing at one head:

Causes:

Pawl not gearing properly with feed ratchet wheel.

Foreign matter wedge between nipper and feed plate.

Damaged part of cylinder and top comb.

d) Detaching roller lapping:

Causes:

Incorrect atmospheric condition.

Oil on rollers

Sticky matter or dirt on rollers

Worn out roller coating.

Bad top cleaners.

e) Irregular sliver:

Causes:

Excessive tension on calendar roller.

Improper roller setting.

Faulty adjustment of suction unit.

Eccentricity of roller.

Topic: working principles of drafting, twisting and winding

The input to the simplex machine is drawn sliver, which is drafted, lightly twisted, and wound onto
roving bobbins as the output. The drafting and twisting process aligns and joins the fibers into a
continuous strand of roving in preparation for further spinning into yarn.
We are going to briefly discuss the working principles of drafting twisting and winding

Winding

The working principle of the winding machine is to change the package and increase the yarn package
Increase the yarn capacity and remove the defects on the yarn to improve the quality of the yarn. The
main task of the winder is to wind and connect the bobbins with less capacity.

The working principle of winding

When working, the winding can change the volume of winding and increase the capacity of yarn
winding: through winding, pipe yarns (or Hank yarns) with less capacity are connected to make a larger
capacity bobbin. One bobbin's capacity is equivalent to more than 20 pipe yarns.

The creation of large yarn packages that can be easily unwound, is called winding. This makes using
the yarn on subsequent machines both easier and more economical. So we can say that, the process of
transferring yarns from ring, bobbin, hank into a suitable package is called winding.

Drafting

In the textile industry, drafting refers to the process of attenuating or reducing the thickness of
fibers to create yarns of desired fineness and strength. This critical step in textile production determines
the quality and properties of the final fabric.

Principles of Drafting in Textile

Once the designer has envisioned their creation, they start translating it onto paper through precise
measurements and calculations. After gathering all necessary measurements, the designer starts
sketching out rough outlines on pattern-making paper or digital software.

Twisting
.

Twist is simply the spiral arrangement of fibers around the axis of the yarn. Through twisting, the
fibers are bound together and create a stronger yarn. The number of twists involved is normally referred
to as turns per inch or turns per meter.

Working Principle of Twisting machine. Twisting machine is a textile machinery which twists multiple
strands of yarn into one strand. The function is to process yarn or merged stranded yarn products into
linear products for weaving and knitting.

Winding drafting and twisting are all objectives of a roving frame or draw frame

Topic:Recent developments in design and operations

The textile industry is a worldwide industry focused on making garments and other fabric-
based products. It is one of the biggest industries in the world since people everywhere have an ongoing
need for clothing. Textile materials are made from fiber, yarns, and fabrics that are woven, sewn, or
knitted together to create all kinds of clothing. These resources can be found from various sources,
including some plants like cotton and hemp. Other fabrics come from animals, including silk and wool.
Over time, the textile industry has advanced significantly. Many countries and companies have started
to focus on the science and technology aspect of textiles, both as a way to make production more
efficient and as a way to create new kinds of fabrics and garments to meet the changing needs of the
population.

Textile design, also known as textile geometry, is the creative and technical process by which
thread or yarn fibers are interlaced to form a piece of cloth or fabric, which is subsequently printed
upon, or otherwise adorned.

Cutting-edge technologies such as artificial intelligence, machine learning, and the Internet of
Things (IoT) are revolutionizing textile manufacturing processes. Smart factories equipped with
advanced machinery and automation systems are improving productivity, reducing waste, and
enhancing quality control.

These new inventions — the flying shuttle, spinning jenny, water frame, spinning mule, power
loom, cotton gin, Jacquard loom, and synthetic dyes — improved upon existing methods and
technologies to make textile production easier, faster, and better suited to the demands of consumers.
 Technological advancements in the textile industry include the use of new machines. For example:
Knitting machines - Machines create knitted fabrics in large swaths of material, instead of long strips,
that are then looped and sewn together. Pleating - Pleating can now be done solely by machines instead
of laborers.

Move to Non-Woven Fabrics. Another big trend for the 2022 textile industry is the switch toward
non-woven fabrics. Non-woven fabrics are sheets and materials made by thermal or chemical processes.
Unlike woven fabrics, which consist of converting fibers to yarn, non woven materials are bonded
together chemically.

There have been many technological advances in the textile industry in past centuries, some of
which have radically and permanently changed how people produce and use garments. Many of these
technological advances date back to the Industrial Revolution, although others are much more recent. In
many cases, these technological advances have been positive. They have made garment production
significantly cheaper and faster, have reduced the need for dangerous practices that harmed textile
workers, and have found new materials from which to make garments more sustainably. Pleating, a
challenging process that for a long time could only be done by hand, can now be done by machine
alone. Laser printing can now be used to transfer detailed images onto fabrics with relatively little effort,
and 3D or digital printing is expanding how garments can be shaped and what they can look like,
especially for things like shoes. Finally, the use of composite materials makes fabrics stronger, lighter,
and more versatile than they have ever been before. However, not all technological advances have been
positive. There are some negative impacts of technology in the textile industry.

One of the latest technological advances used in the garment industry is nanotechnology.
Nanotechnology has several potential applications, not all of which are widespread in clothing as of yet.
Some researchers are using nanotechnology to produce stain-resistant or wrinkle-resistant clothing, or
clothing that does not need to be washed as often. Nanotechnology may also be used to create color-
adaptive materials that are capable of changing color based on electrical signals, light, and temperature.
It is possible that nanotechnology could be used to develop smart clothing, which are garments able to
adapt to a wearer's habits and patterns and possibly even connect to the Internet. Some consumers may
be nervous about smart clothing because it has the potential to be invasive and erode privacy. It is
unclear to what extent nanotechnology-based fabrics will become the norm in garment production

The textile industry is a major global industry that creates garments. Typically, clothing is made
from fiber, yarns, and fabrics that can come from animals or plants. People have been creating clothing
for thousands of years, but it was not until the Industrial Revolution that the textile industry radically
changed. The invention of the power loom in 1785 sharply increased the efficiency of garment
production. Technological advancements in the textile industry have had their downsides, however,
including a reduction in employment rates because fewer people are needed to man the machines, as
well as issues with labor rights and environmental damage created by fast fashion.

Technological advancements are still impacting the fashion industry today. The newest and possibly
most promising among these is the development of nanotechnology. This is a set of adaptations in fabric
creation that may have many applications. Nanotechnology can make the fabric more fire-repellent. It
might also result in the widespread use of color-adaptive fabrics that can change color based on the
light, heat, and electrical signals around them. An application of nanotechnology that makes some
consumers nervous is smart clothing that some worry might erode privacy, particularly if it were able to
connect to the Internet.

Technological advancements in the textile industry include the use of new machines. For example:

a)Knitting machines - Machines create knitted fabrics in large swaths of material, instead of long strips,
that are then looped and sewn together.

b)Pleating - Pleating can now be done solely by machines instead of laborers.

c)Laser printing - Textile machines now use laser printing to produce images on clothes, like jeans and
shirts. As a result, designs can be transferred to materials more quickly and more precisely.

d)Digital printing - Layered printing allows for more complex designs.

e)3D Printers - Although mostly found only in the high fashion community, companies like Nike are
finding ways to use 3D printing to make innovative shoes, a technology that may be eventually applied
to thinner and more resilient fibers to make actual, soft clothing.

f)Nanotechnology - The textile industry is looking to use nanotechnology to create more scientific
clothing, like fire-repellent, self-cleaning, and water-repellent items. Nanotechnology will also allow the
textile industry to make products at lower energy thresholds, which helps to sustain the environment.