Acknowledgements

This Artistic Clothing supplement was written by Sarah Lillis, Education Programs
Coordinator, Avenir Museum of Design and Merchandising, Colorado State University.

This supplement was reviewed by:

Julia Hurdelbrink, 4-H Youth Development Specialist, Adams County, Colorado State
University Extension
Jen Loewen, 4-H Youth Development Specialist, El Paso County, Colorado State University
Extension
Lisa Sholten, 4-H Youth Development State Specialist, Civic Engagement and Curriculum,
Colorado State University Extension

© Colorado State University Extension 2023

Colorado State University, U.S Department of Agriculture and Colorado counties cooperating. To simplify technical terminology, trade names or products
and equipment occasionally will be used. No endorsement of product names is intended nor is criticism implied of products not mentioned.

Colorado State University Extension is an equal opportunity provider. Colorado State University does not discriminate on the basis of disability and is
committed to providing reasonable accommodations. CSU’s Office of Engagement and Extension ensures meaningful access and equal opportunities to
participate to individuals whose first language is not English. https://col.st/0WMJA

Colorado State University Extension es un proveedor que ofrece igualdad de oportunidades.Colorado State University no discrimina por motivos de
discapacidad y se compromete a proporcionar adaptaciones razonables. Office of Engagement and Extension de CSU garantiza acceso significativo e
igualdad de oportunidades para participar a las personas quienes su primer idioma no es el inglés. https://col.st/0WMJA
What is a Textile?
Textiles are fiber based materials with physical properties including fiber,
structure, color, embellishment, and condition. These features determine the
qualities of the finished textile and its best uses. It can be tricky to pick the
right fabric for your project. In this guide you can read about different types of
textiles, their characteristics, and how you might use them.

Fiber composition Fibers are individual filaments which are the

(page 3) base element of a textile. We can use fibers
from plants, animals, or manufactured
processes.

Fabric Structure Fabric structure is how fibers are intertwined to

(page 13) create a fabric. A textile can be woven, knit,
felted and more.

Color All textiles have a color. That color can be

(page 21) natural or altered. Modern technology allows
designers to create virtually any color.

Embellishment Many types of embellishment can be added to

(page 22) a fabric. Some decorations are made during the
creation of the fabric structure and others are
added later.

Condition Textiles degrade over time, so it is important to

(page 23) consider their condition, especially when using
older material. Fabric that has aged can be
weakened depending on how it was stored,
made, or used.

1
 Choosing your materials
After you have developed an idea for your design, it is time to choose
your materials. Different fabrics have unique qualities that influence
how the garment looks and feels. It also affects how a garment drapes,
moves, and interacts with the body.

There are multiple factors to evaluate about a textile, many of which are
determined by the fiber type. However, these properties can be
somewhat altered depending on how the fibers are spun, woven, treated
and manufactured.

Absorbency - how quickly does fabric absorb moisture and how quickly
does it evaporate out.

Drapability - how does the fabric fall in a graceful shape and fold.

Dye - how well do the fibers take and maintain dyes.

Elasticity - when fibers are stretched and then released, the will the
fibers pull and then return to their original length.

Heat Conductivity - the fabric’s ability to insulate or transmit heat. High

conductivity allows heat to escape and keeps the wearer cool. Low
conductivity retains heat and keeps the wearer warm.

Luster- reflection of light from a smooth surface or how shiny the fabric
surface is.

2
 Choosing Your Materials

Resilience - how much fiber can be compressed or crushed and then

return to its original shape. This determines wrinkle resistance.

Shrinking - fibers are made into textiles under consistent tension, but
the fibers want to return to their natural state, causing shrinkage. Fabric
is often pre-shrunk to prevent shrinkage in the final garment. It is a good
idea to wash your raw fabric before cutting and sewing to prevent
shrinkage in your final work.

Strength - resistance to tearing and is impacted by tensile strength of

fibers.

Washability - how long garment remains clean or needs special care in

cleaning.

Sewing Level - some materials are easier to work with than others. Some
require specific tools to sew.

3
What is a fiber?
Fibers are the base element that makes up a textile. Fibers from
different sources have qualities that make them desirable for
different kinds of textiles.

What are fibers made from?

Natural Fibers
In the modern world we can
source material for textiles from a
variety of places. Some of these
Plants (Cellulose) Animals (Protein)
are natural and others are man
made. Leather and fur are also
used to make fabric. These
materials are not made from Straw Wool

individual fibers, so they are not Cotton Silk

on the diagram. Flax Fur
Hemp

Many synthetic sources come Manufactured Fibers

from petroleum products. This
means they are sourced from
the same material used to
make gas for cars. The plants Plants (Cellulose) Synthetic Sources
used to make manufactured
fibers vary, but are first turned
into a pulp so they can be Viscose Polyester
chemically altered before Rayon Nylon
being made into fiber. Bamboo Tyvek
Spandex

4
 Plants - Cotton

Cotton fibers grow around the seeds

Characteristic Cotton
of the cotton plant. Microscopically,
cotton fiber is oval and curved. This
structure allows for some binding Strength
Medium (stronger
between fibers while staying soft. when wet)

Resilience Low
Cotton is very common in our lives. It
is used for just about every purpose, Luster Low
from casual
clothes to suits to
Elasticity Low
upholstery and
cotton face pads.
Denim was Heat
High
Conductivity
originally made
from cotton,
although now Absorbant High
jeans are often
made from a Washability Launder Normally
blend of cotton
and synthetic Dyes Easy
fibers. You can
usually find pure
Sewing Level Beginner
cotton in fabric
stores where it is
often sold as a Shrink High
quilt fabric.

5
 Plants - Linen
Linen is made using flax fibers removed from the
stem of the plant. On the microscopic level, linen is
roughly cylindrical but not smooth.

Characteristic Linen
It is often used for domestic objects
and valued for its durability which is Strength High
two to three times as strong as
cotton. Linen washes well and gets
softer after repeated washings. It Resilience Low
should not have deep creases ironed
into it because this breaks down the
fibers. Luster Low

You can find plain linen in most

fabric stores, but because it doesn’t Elasticity None
dye well, it can be harder to find in a
wide variety of colors. Heat
Conductivity High

Absorbant Medium

Washability Launder Normally

Dyes Difficult to Dye

Sewing Level Beginner

Shrink None

6
 Animals - Wool
Wool is the hair of the animal, often sheep,
goat, or alpaca, that has been sheered from
the animal. The quality of the wool
depends on the species, animal origins,
and location on the animal’s body.

Characteristic Wool

Strength Medium

Resilience Medium
Animals raised in cool climates tend to
produce warmer wool. The wool fiber has
lots of microscopic layers which catch on Luster Low
each other, making the fiber easy to tangle
together for spinning and felting. Wool is
useful in clothing because it keeps the Elasticity Medium
body warm even when wet.
Cashmere is wool from undercoat of the Heat
Low
Cashmere goat breed originally from the Conductivity
high plains of Asia. It is known for its
extreme softness and high quality.
Absorbant High

Launder with
Washability
Care

Takes Dye
Dyes
well

Sewing Level Intermediate

Shrink Medium

7
 Animals - Silk

Silk is the fiber spun by larvae of the Characteristic Silk

silk moth to construct their cocoons.
The cocoons are boiled and unraveled
to get the long smooth fiber. Strength
High when dry,
Microscopically, the fiber is triangular low when wet
which helps it reflect light and give silk
textiles extra luster. It is light and
strong but expensive because of the Resilience Low
work it takes to produce. The
smoothness of the fiber helps it stay
clean because dirt doesn’t get caught Luster High
on the fiber like it does with wool.
Historically, people have highly valued
silk and paid high prices to have it sent Elasticity Moderate
to them from China. It has fine drape
and soft texture. Heat
Low
Silk is widely available but often conductivity
expensive.
Absorbant Low/ Medium

Washability Dry Clean Only

Dyes Takes dye well

Sewing Level Advanced

Shrink Medium

8
 Manufactured - Plants - Rayon
Since the 1900s people have been inventing new
types of fibers to attempt to produce certain textile
qualities for less cost than natural fibers. Most
manufactured fibers are made by pushing the
material through a spinneret. This is a nozzle about
side of thimble with small holes. This mechanical
spinneret performs same function as silkworm’s
spinneret.
Characteristic Viscose Rayon

Medium (weaker
Strength
when wet)

Rayon is a manufactured fiber Resilience Low

made from wood chips. These chips
are reduced to a pulp and then Luster Medium
extruded from a spinneret
to create fibers. It is similar in feel Elasticity Medium
to silk and is sometimes called
synthetic silk. Heat
High
Conductivity
There are
multiple types Absorbant Medium
of rayon with
different Washability Launder normally
qualities. The
chart here lists Dyes Medium
the features of
Viscose Rayon Sewing Level Intermediate
specifically.
Shrink Medium

9
 Manufactured - Petroleum products - Nylon
Nylon is made from petroleum-based
chemical compounds. Petroleum is
made into nylon salt which is then
turned into fiber through a spinneret.
We often think of nylon in its use in
Nylon Salt
women’s stockings, especially in the
1940s and 1950s when it provided an
alternative to silk shortly after its
invention. Nylon can be made to look
similar to cotton, linen, or silk. Many Characteristic Nylon
features of Nylon depend on the specific
chemical structure of that type of Nylon. Strength High

Resilience High

Luster High

Elasticity High/ Extreme

Heat
Low
Conductivity

Absorbant Low

Washability Easy

Dyes Medium

Sewing Level Medium

Shrink Low

10
 Polyester
Polyester is made from petroleum-
based chemical compounds. It is
similar to nylon but with a different
chemical structure. The manufactured
fibers of Polyester are cylindrical and
smooth.

Characteristic Polyester

Strength High/ Medium

Resilience High

Luster Medium/ High

Elasticity Low

Warmth High

Absorbant Low

Washability Launder Normally

Specialty Dyes
Dyes
only

Polyester is durable, easy to wash,

Sewing Level Intermediate
moisture resistant, and retains its
shape, making is a popular fiber. It can
None in finished
be coarse on the skin. Shrink
products

11
 Blends

When a designer wants characteristics

of multiple fibers they might choose a
blend. Modern clothes tell you what
percentage they contain of different
materials. The types of fibers and how
they are combined determine the
properties of the final fabric.

This dress is created from

four different materials.
Polyester is often blended because it
retains it shape and reduces wrinkles.
When blended with cotton, it brings
along these qualities and combines with
cotton's absorbency and comfort. When
Nylon is blended with cotton, the nylon
brings strength, smooth texture, light
weight, and elasticity to cotton’s soft
texture and water absorbency.

There are many more types of synthetic

fibers, each with its own properties. Be
sure to learn about and think about
fiber content before you buy.

12
 How are textiles made? Fibers into Yarns

For woven or knit textiles, the first

step is to organize and twist fibers
into yarns. Different fibers can be
blended together before or during
spinning to create different types
and qualities of yarn.

Yarns are sometimes plied where

multiple threads are twisted
together to create a thicker strand.
The amount of twist determines
how tightly the yarn holds, but too
many twists can break the fibers.

Historically, this process was done

with a spindle or spinning wheel.
Today there are machines that spin
fibers on a large scale.

13
 Fibers into Yarns - Look Closely

Looking at this example of a polyester yarn, you can see how

many smaller fibers are twisted together to create a single
strand. This yarn is four ply because it is made from four
smaller twisted strands. As we untwist the strands, the
individual fibers become easier to see. .

Fully twisted, 4 One twisted strand

ply yarn
Unwinding a single Individual fibers
strand

14
 Making the Textile
There are several ways to turn fibers into fabric. Looking closely at a
textile, you can determine how it was made.

When looking at a woven textile, you can see

the two directions of fibers running
perpendicular to each other. The over-under
pattern of fibers tells us this is a plain weave.

When looking at a knit, you can

see rows and columns of loops. A
knit looks significantly different
on the front and back but
sometimes these loops are tiny,
so look closely!

When looking at a felted textile, there is no

organized patterns of threads. Instead the
individual fibers have been tangled together
creating a uniform surface.

When looking at lace, you can see the delicate

structure with a lot of empty space. Lace is a
decorative openwork web of threads created by
twisting and knotting.

15
 Weaving
Weft Fibers
Weaving is the development of on a Shuttle
fiber into fabric by interlacing
perpendicular yarns. Modern
weaving is done on an industrial
scale with complex machines but
is fundamentally the same as it
was done through most of human
history. Long yarns called the
warp are attached to a loom and
interwoven with width-wise yarns
called the weft. The weft travels
back and forth across the warp Warp Fibers on the Loom

on a shuttle. There are many

different patterns used in weave
construction.

Woven fabric has minimal stretch in

the warp or weft direction but does
stretch when cut on the bias
(diagonal) shown with the green
arrow.

Warp Direction
For more elaborate patterns, additional
Bias
threads can be incorporated into the
weave. These extra threads are called
supplementary threads. They allow for
Weft interesting designs and patterns. They
Direction often sit on top of the main textile or
float, and can create texture on the
surface. Velvet and brocades utilize
supplementary threads.

16
 Weaving Patterns

There are basic weaves that appear frequently

in different types of textile. The first is the
plain weave which is the basic over under
pattern made with the weft on the warp.
Quilting cotton is a common example of a
plain weave.

A stronger weave is the twill which is over

two under two pattern. This pattern is
shifted over one, each row creating an
arrow pattern across the fabrics. Denim is
a common example of a twill weave which
is used to make durable fabrics.

A satin weave is more delicate and soft but

less durable. Here, the weft goes under
over under four. This creates long floats of
weft thread on the surface of the fabric
creating shine but the threads can be more
easily caught and pulled out of the textile.

17
 Woven Fabrics - Examples
Brocade - a jacquard woven fabric with
multicolored patterns made from
supplementary weft yarns. Originally it
would have been made from silk but today
is made using all types of fibers. It is
identifiable by the texture created by the
threads forming the patterns that sit
raised above the base layer of fabric.
Denim - a strong stiff durable twill woven fabric. It is often dyed indigo
blue with the weft yarns left undyed. Traditionally it is 100% cotton but
is available as a cotton polyester blend.

Flannel - a soft fuzzy fabric with a napped finish.

It is sometimes wool based but now comes in
blends to strengthen the fabric. It is widely used
because it is soft, warm, drapes well, and does
not fray.

Chiffon - a soft, flimsy, sheer, plain weave fabric. It is light weight and
relatively strong. It was originally primarily made from silk but now
comes in polyester and blends. It is difficult to sew and frays easily.

Muslin - a generic term for a fine, soft, light weight woven fabric. It is
often in cotton made with a open, plain weave. Today muslin is
inexpensive and can be used to make mock-ups of garments.

Velvet - a woven fabric with supplementary warps

that are woven in loops and cut to create a fuzzy
texture. When using velvet, take care that pattern
pieces are all cut in the same direction on the fabric
since light can reflect differently from different
directions. It often requires dry cleaning.

18
 Knitting
Knitting is another frequently used method of fabric construction. A
single yarn is formed into interlocking loops by use of needles. Knitted
fabrics often have considerable stretch, provide warmth through
multiple air pockets, and are wrinkle resistant. One problem is if one
loop breaks a hole is made which starts a run, leading to a much larger
hole. This can be eliminated through some variation in stiches. Knitting
can be done by hand on needles or by machine.

Knit from the front Knit from the back

Many clothes are made from very small knits

so sometimes you have to look very closely to
see the loops.

Knit Fabrics - Examples

Fleece - a soft, warm, napped surfaced knit fabric. It imitates the fleece
of an animal and does come in a non-woven variety. Sometimes it can be
hard to see the knit pattern under the napped, fluffy surface. It is prone
to pilling, and the nap can wear away.

Jersey - a weft or plain knitted fabric. It is a common textile and is used

for t-shirts, sportswear, and socks.

19
 Other Fabrics

Felted fabrics are created when fibers

are tangled together without being
made into yarn first. This began with
wool fibers which naturally cling and
intermesh with each other when pressed
into compact fabric. Now there are
many different kinds of felt. It will not
fray or unravel but is hard to sew and
mend. It is often used for hats, slippers,
shoe insoles, ear muffs, and table
padding. It is a cheap way of making
fabric. It is often stiff with little strength,
poor drape, and no elasticity.

Lace is a delicate openwork

mesh fabric, usually somewhat
transparent with fine yarns
twisted together. It creates
delicate patterns often used on
the edges of expensive
garments. Lace was originally
made with bobbins or needles
but is now made cheaper by
machine.

20
Color
Fibers usually have a inherent color which can be left all the way into the
completed project. Frequently, different colors are added to the textile
to change its appearance. This can be done before, during or after the
structure building process.

Some synthetic dyes have color added to the raw material before they
are made into fibers. This makes the color much stronger because it has
become part of the textile all the way through the fiber.

Threads or yarns can be dyed before

they are incorporated into the fabric.
This works well when an entire area or
thread section will be the same color.
Ikat is a technique where parts of a
threads are dyed before they are
woven into the textile. It creates
interesting designs in the final fabric.
An example of Ikat

After the textile or garment is made, it can be dyed or painted.

Dye permeates the entire fabric and the design shows up on both sides
of the fabric. Examples include: Tie-Dye, Shibori, Adire, Wax Resist, and
Batik.

A painted or printed fabric has pigment

applied to the surface of the textile.
Examples include: hand painting, screen
printing, heat transfer, block printing.

An example of a printed textile

21
 Embellishment and Finishing

After the fabric is complete, it can be decorated and altered according

to how it will be used. These methods can be done after the textile has
been turned into a garment or product.

Embroidered - decorated on the face

side with threads applied by hand
sewing or machine.

Quilted - fabric is layered with a

padded layer and held together with
rows of stitching or heat fused.

Coated - fabric finished by the application of

layers of substances to one or both sides. Some
textiles are coated in rubber, vinyl, polymer
compounds. The coating can increase strength,
block light, make it waterproof, create the
appearance of leather, decorate, protect the
material.

Napped - fibers raised on the surface through brushing teasing

or rubbing. This changes the texture of the fabric.

Applique - layers of fabric sewn on the surface of

the base fabric.

Beads and Sequins - adding beads or sequins to

the surface of the fabric using thread. A variety of
materials can be applied to the surface or hung
from a textile.

22
 Condition

It is important to evaluate the condition of the textile before using them,

especially when you are working with used or thrifted textiles. There are
a lot of great quality materials to be found in thrift stores!

Examine the garment asking - What is the texture? Does it smell? Has the
fabric degraded? Does it hold its structure?

Look for damage to the garment - bumps from being on a hanger, pilling,
wear and tear, stains especially in crotch and pits, discoloration.

Evaluate the stitching and seams. Are the seams going to rip? Pop?
Stretch? Are the seams straight and uniform? Are they flat with no
raveling or puckering?

Also be sure to check if the zippers, snaps and buttons are present and
working. It can be easy to replace a button but tricky to fix or replace a
zipper.

If you are looking for fabric to use in upcycling, don’t be afraid to look
outside the clothing section. Some thrift stores have unused fabric,
tablecloths, linens, sheets, and other textiles that can be repurposed
into clothes.

If you are purchasing from a thrift store, it is a good idea to clean your
textiles before wearing or using. You can put the fabric in a plastic bag
and freeze for 72 hours or leave in a sealed trash bag for several weeks
to ensure that any bugs or anything growing on the textile does not get
into your home. After freezing, wash the garment in as hot of water as it
can stand. Now you have a clean, ready to wear or make with textile.

23