OUTWALE QUARTER KNEE FROM PATTERN

2 LAYERS 1-1/2" X 1/2" Length Hull Weight Beam Max Payload

(38mmX12mm)

15' 2" 313 lbs. 75" 1300 lbs.

Flotation Beneath
362 Pounds
INWALE 1-1/2" X 1/2" (164Kg)
(38mmX12mm)

Flotation Beneath
287 Pounds
(138Kg) 1" X 3/8" DOUBLER
(25mmX9mm) 18MM PLYWOOD KEELSON

DECK BEAM 1-1/2" X 3/4" (38mmX19mm)

LET INTO TANK SIDES

BREASTHOOK FROM PATTERN

BOTTOM SKIDS 1" X 3/4"

(25mmX19mm) TANK SIDES 6MM
CLEAT 1-1/2" X 3/4"
(38mmX19mm)

TRANSOM DOUBLE 18MM PLYWOOD

AFTERMARKET PEDESTAL SEAT

LAG-BOLT TO BOTTOM, LAGS DRIVEN INTO EPOXY-FILLED HOLES

WALE 9MM PLY

PUNCH OUT BULKHEAD CENTER

AFTER HULL ASSEMBLY

CLEAT ENDS SHORT OF SIDES SPRAY RAIL 7/8" X 2" KEELSON 18MM PLY
TO ALLOW FILLETS IN OF DECK (51mm x 25mm)

BOTTOM SKIDS 1" X 3/4"

(25mmX19mm)

Peeler Skiff
©2015 Chesapeake Light Craft, LLC. All rights reserved, including copyright.
1805 George Avenue. Annapolis, MD 21401 | 410-267-0137 | clcboats.com Duplication or transmission prohibited.
 How to Build the Peeler Skiff

Peeler Skiff
November 2012 clcboats.com

Here’s the finished panel. Double-check The bottom panel requires a second coat
for air bubbles, excess epoxy, and dry of epoxy to “fill the weave” of the fabric.
areas.
Mix resin and hardener thoroughly and
roll on a thick coat.

We worry about epoxy getting into the The second coat, applied with a thin-nap
rabbet around the perimeter of the bottom foam roller. You need the solvent-proof
panel, but it never seems to happen. rollers, which are usually yellow.

Once the epoxy has cured, cut the fabric

with a sharp razor right along the inner
edge of the rabbet as shown.

The cured fabric zips right off with a When this has cured, use 120-grit sand-
razor. paper on a sturdy 5-inch random orbital
sander to grind the panel smooth.

The overlap in the fiberglass is “feath-

ered” out with the sander until it cannot
be seen or felt.

You should turn the entire surface a

uniform cloudy gray, free of little glossy
spots. Don’t worry, it will turn beautiful
and clear again in subsequent finishing
steps.

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The exposed edges of the seats are reinforced and beautified with trim pieces that double the thick-
ness. Assemble these doublers from short lengths of 9mm plywood, and glue them to the undersides
of the seat openings. The forward edge of the rear seat is stiffened with a timber cleat; this is more
visible on Page 66. You can add it now or later.

Spread epoxy, thickened to a jam consis-

tency with Cell-o-fill, on the seat doublers.

Plans builders should follow this clever cutting diagram for the rear seat. You’ll join up three
polygonal shapes before laying out the paper pattern. The three pieces are simply butt-joined, and
reinforced with patches of fiberglass on what will become the underside of the seat.

Kit builders are furnished with puzzle-jointed pieces, and don’t need fiberglass reinforcement.

Use spring clamps to hold the seat dou-

blers while the epoxy cures. You can
clean up the seats much more easily on
the bench than you can once they are
installed in the boat!

This is your only chance to coat the

undersides of the seats with epoxy.
Don’t forget to roll on at least two coats
of epoxy. Moisture in the compartments
will attack the undersides of the seats,
and beautifully varnished seat tops can be
spoiled that way.

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• The Peeler Skiff includes a comprehensive 112-page spiral-bound shop

manual with hundreds of step-by-step photos and diagrams.

Peeler Skiff
©2015 Chesapeake Light Craft, LLC. All rights reserved, including copyright.
1805 George Avenue. Annapolis, MD 21401 | 410-267-0137 | clcboats.com Duplication or transmission prohibited.