Baby Toddler Jacket

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This pattern is property of Mon Petit Violon Designs. You can’t modify, resell or share this pattern.

You can sell finished items made from it, but please
mention that the item is made using Mon Petit Violon pattern. Mon Petit Violon Designs © 2013

FP dc – front post double crochet:


Yarn over, insert hook from front to back around post
of next stitch, yarn over and pull through so that you
have 3 loops on the hook. Complete the stitch as normal
dc

BP dc – back post double crochet:


Yarn over, insert hook from back to front around post
of next stitch, yarn over and pull through so that you
have 3 loops on the hook. Complete the stitch as normal
dc.

Thank you for buying my pattern! I hope you will enjoy it!

6-12 months (chest – 55cm(21½in), length – 26cm(10in))


18-24 months (chest – 60cm(23½in), length – 34cm(13in))
3-4 years (chest – 66cm(26in), length – 43cm(17in)) Popcorn
*yarn over, insert hook in specified st and draw up a
The length is very easy adjustable. loop, yarn over, and draw through 2 loops*, repeat from
To make it smaller or bigger – play with the gauge! For example, * 3 times more, yarn over and draw through all five
for size 0-6 months I suggest to use smaller crochet hook (3.25mm) loops; popcorn made
to achieve gauge 10sc per 2 inches). You can also increase the size
using thicker yarn, for example - worsted weight yarn.

 DK weight yarn approx. 150gr / 250gr /350gr


or 520/875/1225 yards
 crochet hook 3,5 (E)mm or size needed to
obtain gauge
 2-5 buttons, depends which size you are going
to make and how many buttons you would like
to use
Instructions are for size 6-12 months, with changes for 18-
24months and 3-4years in […]

17sc and 17 rows = 4inches (10cm)


Top part:
Row 1: Ch43 [47,51], dc in 4th ch from hook (ch3 counts
st(s) – stitch(es)
as first dc) and in each next ch, (41[45,49]dc), turn
ch – chain stitch
Row 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), *FP dc around next dc, BP
sc – single crochet
dc around next dc*, repeat from * to last two sts, FP dc
hdc – half double crochet
around next st, dc in 3rd ch of ch-3, turn (41[45,49]sts)
dc – double crochet
Repeat Row 2 – 7 [10,13] times more.
Lower part:
Row1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *FP dc around
next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next st*,
repeat from * to last 3sts, FP dc around next st, dc in
next 2sts, turn (59[65,71]sts)
Row2: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *BP dc around
next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last 3sts, BP dc
around next st, dc in next 2sts, turn (59[65,71]sts)
Row3: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, *FP dc around
next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last 3sts, FP dc
around next st, dc in next 2sts, turn (59[65,71]sts)
Repeat rows 2 and 3 until the coat is 26[34,43]cm long
or until desired length.
Lower part for size 18-24 months:
Row1: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next st, 2dc in next st,
*FP dc around next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc
in next st*, repeat from * to last 4sts, FP dc around next
st, 2dc in next st, dc in next 2sts, turn (33sts)

Row2: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3sts, *BP dc


around next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last
5sts, BP dc around next st, dc in next 4sts, turn (33sts)

Row 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 3sts, *FP dc


around next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last
5sts, FP dc around next st, dc in next 4sts, turn (33sts)

Repeat rows 2 and 3 as many times as you repeated


Make two them for back.
Top part:
Row1: ch23[25,27], dc in 4th ch from hook (ch3 counts as Side seams: Starting from the bottom, join one front to
first dc) and in each next ch, (21[23,25]dc), turn the back working sc across the side joining lower parts.
Row 2: ch3 (counts as first dc), *FP dc around next dc, BP Make the seam until the top part begins. Be careful not
dc around next dc*, repeat from * to last two sts, FP dc to work sc too loose or too tight. Work them close to
around next st, dc in 3rd ch of ch-3, turn (21[23,25]sts) each other and join row to row to achieve neat seam. Do
Repeat Row 2 – 7[10,13]times more. the same with second side.

Lower part (for size 6-12 months, changes for size 3-


4 years are in [...]:
Row1: ch3 (counts as first dc), 2dc in next st, *FP dc
around next st, 2dc in next st, dc in next st, 2dc in next
st*, repeat from * to last 3sts, FP dc around next st, 2dc
in next st, dc in 3rd ch of ch-3 turn (31[37]sts)
Row2: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2sts, *BP dc
around next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last
4sts, BP dc around next st, dc in next 3sts, turn
(31[37]sts)
Row 3: ch3 (counts as first dc), dc in next 2sts, *FP dc
around next st, dc in next 5sts*, repeat from * to last
Shoulder seams: now make the shoulder seams - work
4sts, FP dc around next st, dc in next 3sts, turn
sc in each remaining loops of both – back and front.
(31[37]sts)
Leave one third of the front not joined. Do the same
Repeat rows 2 and 3 as many times as you repeated
with second shoulder.
them for back.

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Work two more rows of sc along the front, only until the
Starting with the underarm work: top part as shown below.
Rnd 1: ch3, work evenly 31[38,45]dc around the
armhole, join with sl st in 3rd ch of ch-3
Rnd 2: ch3, dc in each dc (31[38,45]dc), join with sl st in
ch-3
Repeat Rnd 2 – 10[18,21] times more, or until desired
length.
Next rnds work a little bit loose, so that they can stretch if needed!
Next rnd: ch1, *sc in next dc, skip next dc*, repeat from
* to end, join with sl st in ch-1
Last rnd: ch1, sc in each sc, join with sl st in ch-1
Fasten off.

Fasten off and join the yarn on opposite side, in the first
sc of the lower part (where the top part ends) and work:
Row 1: ch1, sc in next st, *ch2, skip next 2sts, sc in next
10sts*, repeat from * to end, turn. You can choose how big
button holes you want and work ch3 or ch4 instead of ch2, then
you have to skip the same amount of stitches – if worked ch3, skip
3sts etc. You can also choose how many buttons you would like to
use and in this case work not 10sc between each button hole but
more, or less stitches. I suggest to start making button holes from
the top as in this way you will be sure the first button is in the right
place and you will be able to leave equal distance between each
button.
Row 2: ch1, sc in each st to end. That means you have to
Starting from the bottom, work evenly sc across the work sc in each sc, and in each ch2-space as well. If you worked
front, collar and another front, turn. ch2, then work 2sc in this space, if you worked ch3 – work 3sc
into it.

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Weave in all ends.
At the end work one row of sc across the bottom of the
Starting from the left side: coat to achieve a neat look.
Row 1: Ch4, skip next st, sc in next st, *ch5, skip next Sew on the buttons.
2sts, sc in next st*, repeat from * to last 2sts (when you are
close to the end of the collar, check how many stitches will be left if
you work all repeats, if more than 2, then in next repeats you
should skip some more stitches, not 2, but 3 in this way adjusting
the pattern for your stitch amount), ch2, skip next st, hdc in
last st, turn

Row 2: ch1, sc in first hdc, ch3, 1 popcorn in next sc,


ch3, *sc in next ch-5 space, ch3, 1 popcorn in next sc,
ch3*, repeat from * to last space, sc in 2nd ch of ch-4,
fasten off.

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