FORMULATION AND EVALUATION OF

HERBAL SUNSCREEN
BY
Md Arif Raza
(AKU REG.NO:-20109164080)

GUIDED BY
MR. KUMAR VIKRAM
Asst. Professor & HOD (B.Pharm, M. Pharm,PGDCA,PhD)
Dept.ofPharmacy

GAUTAMINSTITUTEOFPHARMACY
VILL-SAIDBARHI,PO-JAITPUR,PS-CHANDI,DIST-NALANDA
1
Chandiroadsaiyadbahri,hilsa,Bihar-80130FORMULATIONANDEVALUATIONOFHERBALSUNSCREEN
 Index

TITLE PAGENO

 Abstract 2

 Introduction 2-8

 MaterialandMethods 9

 DevelopmentofFormulation 10

 SubjectiveProperties 10-11

 ResultsandDiscussion 12

 Conclusion 12

 Reference 13-15

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Abstract
Duetothehasty-pacedlifeoftoday,ourlifeisaffectedbypollutionandharshsyntheticchemicals, hence,
nature has rendered us with its everlasting notable ingredients ofherbal. The major cause of
sunburn is UV rays which leads to precarious skin cancer. Sunscreen is a topical product that
absorbs or reflects some of the sun’s UV radiation on the skin from excessive exposure to UV
radiation. It has the potential to prevent sunburn & reduce the harmful effects of the sun such as
prematureaging&skincancer.ThePresentresearchworkportraystheformulations&evaluation of
topical photoprotective, containing antioxidant, anti-malignant, wound healing, antifungal,
antiaging, moisturizer, anti- inflammatory, antiproliferative activity, and other photo-protective
polyphenols.Thepresent researchworkrendersastablenaturalphotoprotective formulationwith
antioxidant properties, high SPF, and more indispensable homogenous UVA/UVB protection.

Keywords:Sunscreen;Polyphenols;SPF;Sunburns

1.Introduction

UV protection is befitting very popular because of sunscreen’s properties as a photo-protecting

agent [1]. Sunscreen preparation is applied topically, and its purpose is to heal, prevent or resist
skinfrompainfulorharmfuleffectsofsunburn, suntan, suncancer, andprematureskinagingand to
escalate the level of Sun Protection Factor (SPF) [1,2,3]. Sunscreens are a natural defense
mechanismto defend against precarious UV radiation fromthe skin, which is the outer covering
layerofthebody.Itsabilitytoabsorb,reflectorscattersomeofthesun’sUVradiationontheskin
fromextravagant exposuretoultraviolet radiation[1].Skinmelanoma,sunburn,photoaging,skin
pigmentation, and various painful or precarious effects are caused by UVAand UVB rays [3,4].
Anti-oxidant, wound healing, antifungal, premature aging, moisturizer, anti-inflammatory, and
antiproliferativeactivitiesareshownduetothekeycomponentsofUVprotectionlike flavonoids,
phenolic compounds, or herbal oils and their UV rays absorption capacity in UV-Aregion [5].

There are ample sunscreen formulations available in the market, which are used to protect skin
fromsunburnandskincancerandduringthemarketsurvey,itisfoundthattherearesomeadverse
effectslikecellmutation,DNAdamage,hormonealteration,andeczema(allergicreaction)bythe
syntheticsunscreenagents.Variousformulationshavemultifunctionalsunprotectionactivityand it is
based ontheir efficacyofUVrays’absorption apart but most ofthe formulations are ofhigh cost and
merged synthetic molecules have toxicity and are even carcinogenic [6].

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SheaButter(Vitellariaparadoxa)
Itisobtained fromthefatofthesheanut.ThesheatreeoriginatesfromthesavannasofAfrica. Its potential
is to melt at body temperature and to absorb rapidly into the skin and it gives results
withoutleavingagreasyfeeling.Itisusedasanantioxidant andit containsvitaminslikeAandE,
bothofwhichenhanceskincellregenerationandcirculatebloodbelowtheskin’ssurface.Theoil contains
Cinnamic acid and provides vital protection against precarious UV rays [7].

Figure1.Sheabutter

Beeswax(Cera alba)
ItisderivedfromhoneybeesofthegenusApisanditisanaturalwax.MainlyBeeswaxfoundation
isusedasanemulsifierandthickenerandcanalso beused foremulsionstabilization. Beeswaxis used
for melting the solids to facilitate the mixing with the water phase’s ingredients by heating and
mixing method. Its most important purpose is to compose a creamy texture.

Figure2. BeesWax

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RoseWater(Rosadamascena)
It is extracted from the rose by liquid-liquid extraction [9]. One of the most important factors is
thattheyhaveagoodsourceofantioxidantactivitiesandbeusedforbeautifyingpurposesfortheir sterling
sunscreen [10].
Gelatin and its hydrolysates procured from fish gelatin of tilapia (Oreochromis niloticus) were
foundtopossessascavengingeffectagainstreactiveoxygenspeciesofUVthatrendersprecarious
effectstotheskin.Itisanovelsourceofcomponentsthathavepotentialinskinanti-agingproducts and is
also used as an emulsifying agent [11].

Figure3.RoseWater Figure4.Gelatin

RaspberrySeedOil(Rubusidaeusseed)(RSO)
It is the fixed oil yielded fromthe seeds ofthe Raspberryand its components are fattyacids, and
high concentrations of vitamins A and E, so appreciated in the cosmetics and pharmaceutical
industries. Its potentials that are high antioxidant capacityand exhibited anti-inflammatory, anti-
aging, anti-mutagenic, and antimicrobial properties and used as an efficient moisturizer and
emollient whichaidsto alleviateoxidative stressinthe skin, isutilized incosmetic emulsions for
UVprotection[12,13].It assiststo protect cellsfromoxidativedamageandaidswithmaintaining the
structure of the collagen [13]. Use it to moisturize your face without blocking pores, so it is
alsonon-comedogenic[15].Ithassun-protectivequalitiesandisalsorenderedbeneficialtopeople
glancing for a mild, non-irritating moisturizer with a Sun Protection Factor (SPF) [16,17].

Figure5. RaspberrySeedOil

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Oliveoil(Oleaeuropaea)
It is a fat derived fromthe olive fruit. Olive oilis made up oftriglyceride estersofoleic acid and
palmiticacidalongwithtracesofsqualene,sterols,(phytosterols,andtocosterols), andconsistsof
polyphenols like esters of Tyrosol and hydroxyl tyrosol including oleocanthal and oleuropein.
Some flavonoids and lignans are also present. Olive oilhas been used as a home remedy for skin
care. Squalene isutilizedasanantioxidant, and moisturizer, and intopicalsunscreenpreparation, it is
a convenient vehicle to carry other substances [18,19,20].

Figure6.Olive Oil

CoconutOil(Cocos nucifera)
ItisatropicalplantthatgrowsandiscultivatednumerouslybyIndonesianpeople[21].Itcontains
fattyacids and is reportedto possess antioxidant properties photoprotection, and other medicinal
activities like anti-bacterial, skin barrier repair, anti-aging, wound healing, and moisturizing in
atopic dermatitis treatment [22-28].

Figure7. CoconutOil

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GrapeSeedOil(Vitisvinifera)
Itisthemostimportantsourceofpolyphenols(60%-70%).Ithasthepropertyofantioxidantswith strong
anti- inflammatory and antiproliferative activity. The polyphenolic phytoalexin namely
resveratrol(trans-3,5,4’-trihydroxystilbene) ispresent inboththeskinandseedsofgrapes.It acts as an
antioxidant with strong anti- inflammatory and antiproliferative activity [29].

Figure8.GrapeSeedOil

CarrotSeedOil(Daucuscarota)
It is an essential oil and it renders a significant role of antioxidant, antiseptic, antifungal, and
fragrantpropertieswithhighlevelsofvitaminAnandprovidesprotectionfromthesun.According
toastudy,CarrotSeedOilhasanaturalSPFof38and40,whichwaspublishedin “Pharmacognosy
Magazine” in 2009 [7].

Figure9. CarrotSeedOil

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AlmondOil
It is the richest source of polyphenolic compounds especially flavonoids and phenolic acids. Its
potential is that the property of UVB protection of this plant’s skin extract and its topical
application has significant antioxidant, skin brightening, and anti-photo aging properties
[30,31,32].

Figure10.Almond Oil

RosehipSeedOil(Rosa canina)
It isthe richest sourceofvitaminC, carotenoids, polyphenols, and different flavonoidsthat show
antioxidant properties [33,34,35]. In addition, It has strong anti-inflammatory and antioxidant
properties that stimulate the synthesis and restoration of collagen [36,37]. It has anti-aging
properties and acts as a moisturizer.

Figure11.RosehipSeedOil

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SesameOil(Sesamumindicum)
Ithasbeenutilizedasahealingoilfor thousandsofyears. SesameOilhas inhibitedthegrowthof
malignant melanoma (a skincancer) prostaglandin and leukotrienes inIn-vitro conditions. It acts
asapotentantioxidant activity[38,39].Inthetissues,thisoilwill neutralize freeoxygenradicals.
Palmitic, palmitoleic acid, stearic, oleic, linoleic, eicosenoic acid are present in this oil. It is the
richest source of vitamin E and Sesamol, sesamin is reported to restore moisture to the skin,
keeping it soft and flexible [38,39,40,41].

Figure12.Sesame Oil

TeaTreeOil(Melaleucaalternifolia)
It acts as an effective antiseptic, fungicide, and germicide and it is a widely used ingredient of
amplesunscreenformulationsthatrelievesunburnbyincreasingbloodflowincapillaries,bringing
nutrients to damaging skin.

Figure13.TeaTreeOil

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2.Materialandmethods
Table1Theweightsofeachingredientofsunscreenpreparation

Ingredients FormulationⅠ FormulationⅡ FormulationⅢ

(50gm) (50gm) (50gm)

RaspberrySeedOil 6ml 6ml 8ml

SesameOil 5ml 6ml -
Olive Oil - 2ml 5ml
CoconutOil - - 5ml
GrapeSeedOil 6ml 5ml 5ml
Carrot SeedOil 6ml 6ml 5.5ml
AlmondOil 5ml 5ml 5ml
RosehipSeedOil 5ml 5ml 0.5ml
TeaTreeOil 2ml 1ml 2ml
SheaButter 2.5gm 2gm 2gm
Beeswax 2.5gm 2gm 2gm
RoseWater 5ml 5ml 5ml
Gelatine 5ml 5ml 5ml

InSilicoandInVitroSunProtectionFactor(SPF)determination
The sunscreen formulation’s efficacy can be identified by calculating the sun protection factor
(SPF), whichisdefinedastheUVenergyrequired toproduceaMinimalErythemalDose(MED) in
protected skin, divided bythe UV energyrequired to produce a MED in unprotected skin:

SPF=Minimalerythemadoseinsunscreenprotectedskin/Minimalerythemadoseinnon- sunscreen
protected skin

The minimalerythemaldose(MED)isdefinedasthe lowest time intervalordosageofUVlight

irradiationsufficienttoproduceminimal,perceptibleerythemaontheunprotectedlayerofskin.
InVitro SPFvaluesofoily formulationscontaining vegetable oilsand/ororganic UVfilterswere
calculatedspectrophotometricallyandobservedabsorbancevaluesat5nmintervals(290-320nm) were
calculated spectrophotometrically.

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3.DevelopmentofFormulation
STEP1
Melt beeswax and Shea Butter in a china dish after that addAlmond Oil, Coconut oil, Rosehip
Seed Oil, Carrot Seed Oil, and Olive Oil in measured quantities and heat upto 75℃.
STEP2
Add Rose Water and Gelatin in another china dish in measured quantity. Heat the mixture up to
75℃.
STEP3
Mixboththemixtureand stirgentlyuntilasmoothcreamisformed atroomtemperature.
EvaluationParameters
PhysicalParameters
Appearance,color,andhomogeneityaredetermined.

4.SubjectiveProperties
InVitroevaluationbyUVSpectroscopy
1 gm quantity of formulated cream was weighted, transferred to 100 ml volumetric flask, and
diluted to volume with n- butyl alcohol. Further, it was kept for ultra-sonication for 5 min and
filteredthroughacottonfilter,discardingtheinitial10ml.Afterwards5mlaliquotwastransferred to 25
ml volumetric flask and the volume was adjusted with n-propyl alcohol. The absorption spectra
ofsamples were obtained in the range of290-400 nmusing 1 cmquartz celland n- butyl alcohol as
blank solution. The absorption data obtained in the range of 290-320 nm every 5 nm interval.
4.3.Rancidity
Rancidification is the process of complete or incomplete oxidation or hydrolysis of fats and oils
whenexposed to air, light, or moistureorbybacterialaction, resulting in anunpleasant taste and
odor. Rancidity is performed by using the Phloroglucinol solution. The rancidity is due to the
oxidationofthefatsandoils;duringoxidationfree fattyacidsare liberated.These free fattyacids react
withthe Phloroglucinolsolutionand give pink color indicating the rancidityofthe product. 10 ml of
cream was taken then added 10 ml of concentrated Hydrochloric acid and 10 ml of
Phloroglucinol solution and shaken for one minute. The cream should have passed the test if no
pink color develops.

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pHDetermination
PH denotes “Potential of Hydrogen” and is a scale used to specify the acidity or basicity of an
aqueous solution.Acidic solutions are measured to have lower pH values than basic or alkaline
solutions. The cream in general has a pH of 6 to 9.
Procedure
All the formulations were water in oil emulsion. The pH of the cream is measured by making a
10%dilutionofthecreamandthepHismeasuredbythepH meter.Theelectrodemustbewashed and free
from any residue of acid and alkali to ensure an accurate reading.
Viscosity
Viscosity is an important parameter in the evaluation of the cream. Viscosity governs many
propertiesofthecreamsuchasspreadability, pouring abilityofthecreamfromthecontainer, etc. The
viscosityof formulation was determined by using Brookfield Viscometer and Viscosity was
found to be in the range of28000-32000 cp. The Viscosity is determined by using the following
formula:
Viscosity=DialReading×Factor.ForLV-4at6RPMFactoris1M(1000)

Table2Evaluationofherbalsunscreen

Parameters FormulationⅠ FormulationⅡ FormulationⅢ

Appearance Smooth,Opaque Smooth,Opaque Smooth,Opaque
Color PaleYellow PaleYellow PaleYellow
Consistency Good Good Good
Texture Smooth Smooth VerySmooth
Irritation Non Non Non
Spreadability Good Good Good
Extrudability Fair Good Good
pH 7.3 7.2 7.1
Rancidity NoPinkcolor NoPinkcolor NoPinkcolor
Viscosity 28408 28540 30200
SPFbyUV 21.35 27 34

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5.Resultsanddiscussion
Resultsofourstudyrevealedthat 100%ofselectedherbalsunscreensarephotostable intheUVB range,
and 71%ofthemare stable inbothUVAand UVBrange. Subjective studybyinvivo SPF
determinationrevealed that 98%ofthesunscreens effectivelyprovideprotectionto theskin from
sunburns. Overall data obtained after quality evaluation study substantiate that all products are
safe and efficacious. TotalSPF obtained from formulation is 34 SPF.

6.Conclusion
UV Radiation causes various precarious and damaging effects on the skin. It causes skin cancer,
hyperpigmentation, photo-aging, sunburn, and skin irritation. Herbal cosmetics possess property
to protect skin from damaging effects of sun rays with no comedogenic and side effects. The
present review focuses on the scientific account of herbals in cosmetics. Active constituents
extractedfromherbalshaveapotentUVshielding effect.Herbsareeco-friendly,compatible,and
widespread compared to synthetic ones.

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