Conejos - Kati Galusz (Español)

DWARF RABBITS
a crochet pattern by Kati Galusz
Items made using this pattern may be sold in your own shop, but please give me
credit for the design and add a link to my Ravelry or Etsy account. Mass production,
and sale and distribution of pattern pieces and instructions is expressly prohibited.
2
Materials
You can use any yarn weight for these bunnies, as long as you choose a fitting hook to work
with, it will only influence the finished size. My example rabbits from DK weight yarn are about
13cm/5 about the same height to the tip of upright ears and they took about 35g of Red
65 g of Red Heart Soft Yarn.
If you want a fluffy tail, I suggest to use either acrylics or a wool, mohair or alpaca yarn, these
fibres
up).
You will need fiberfill for stuffing, and for the nose and mouth a length of embroidery floss in a
contrasting color.
For eyes, I used 12mm safety eyes for my DK bunnies and 13.5mm eyes for the worsted weight.
Alternatively, you could use black buttons, felt, or for a child-safe toy embroider the eyes
directly on the crochet fabric.
Hook size
You want a tight gauge
allows you to achieve that (it will be smaller than suggested on the label). I like to use 3 mm
hook with DK yarn and 3.5 mm/E hook for worsted weight.
Abbreviations (aka you need to know how to do):

start with magic ring
ch chain
st stitch
sl st slip stitch
sc single crochet
inc single crochet increase (work 2 sc in the same stitch)
invdec invisible decrease
FLO work in front loops only
The rabbit will be mostly worked in continuous spiral without joining rounds - use a stitch
marker or a piece of scrap yarn inserted into the first stitch of the round to keep track of your
work.
Head
1: 6 sc in magic ring, pull ring tight
2: inc in each st around (12)
3: [inc, sc in next st] 6 times (18)
4: [sc in next st, inc, sc in next st] 6 times (24)
5: sc in each st around (24)
6: [inc, sc in next 7 st] 3 times (27)
7: [sc in next 4 st, inc, sc in next 4 st] 3 times (30)
A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

Feel free to contact me ( lunacollie@gmail.com , or via Ravelry or Etsy) if you have any problem following the pattern,
or notice a mistake, or just to show me your creation.
3

11-16: sc in each st around (36)
17: [sc in next 2 st, invdec, sc in next 2 st] 6 times (30)
18: [invdec, sc in next 3 st] 6 times (24)
19: [sc in next st, invdec, sc in next st] 6 times (18)
If using safety eyes, attach them now: stuff head and insert the
eyes between round 8 & 9, 13 st apart. Remove fiberfill and put
on the washers, then stuff the head again. Add more stuffing after
next round.
20: [invdec, sc in next st] 6 times (12)

21: invdec 6 times (6)
Fasten off and use yarn end to stitch the remaining gap closed.
Body
If you have only one skein of your yarn, make an extra ball, the size of a small egg should be
more than enough this will be used for the short rows of the neck. Start crocheting the body
using your main skein.
3: [inc, sc in next st] 6 times (18)
4: [sc in next st, inc, sc in next st] 6 times (24)
23: [sc in next 7 st, invdec, sc in next 7 st] 3 times (45)
Put a removable marker or a piece of scrap yarn to the middle of the round you just completed,
this will help with the placement of the legs.

4
Remove your hook and insert a stitch marker into the live loop to prevent it from coming undone
(I tied a piece of scrap yarn into it) the yarn.
Now you will use the small skein to crochet the short rows. All short rows will be worked
separately, which means you will end up with a bunch of tails, but they will be hidden inside
anyway. The chains at the beginning and end of rows won t be used for anything, they are only
there so the first and last sc of each row will keep the right tension.
I: Make a slip knot and ch 2 (figure 1). Skip the next 5 sc, work a sc in the 6th st of round 25
(figure 2), then sc in the next 31 st. Ch 2 (figure 3) and fasten off (figure 4). (32 st without
the chains)
II: Again, start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row (figure 5) and sc in the
next 13 st, invdec, sc in the next 13 st, ch 2 and fasten off (figure 6). (27 st without chains)
III: Start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 23 st, ch 2 and
fasten off (23 st without the chains)
IV: Start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 5 st, invdec, sc
in the next 5 st, invdec, sc in the next 5 st, ch 2 and fasten off (17 st without the chains)
V: Start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 13 st, ch 2 and
VI: Start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 9 st, ch 2 and
VII: Start with ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 2 st, invdec, sc
in the next st, ch 2 and fasten off (figure 7) (4 st without the chains)
5
Now, remove the marker from the last loop from round 25. Insert hook in loop (figure 8) and
resume working with your original skein. It will be a bit fiddly because the starting/finishing
chains keep getting in the way, but push them to the back and carry on.
26: sc in next 5 st (figure 9) a sc in each of

the 2 unworked sc at the beginning of each short row, the stitches you skipped previously.
(figure 10, 11) even out, just make sure your stitches are nice
and tight short row VII, sc in all 4 st, then
continue downward (figure 12), working a sc in each of the 2 unworked sc at the end of the
short rows. Finally, when you reach back to round 25, sc in the next 5 st (38 sc)
27: invdec, sc in next 5 st, invdec, sc in next 20 st, invdec, sc in next 5 st, invdec (34)
Sl st to join to next st and fasten off leaving a long yarn end for sewing.
The short rows created a slanted neckline, so the head will join to
the body in the correct angle.

6
Front legs (make 2)

The extra skein will be used again for the shaping of these legs. Start crocheting with the main
skein.
3: sc in next 4 st, inc in next 3 st, sc in next 5 st (15)
4: sc in next 4 st, invdec 3 times, sc in next 5 st (12)
Remove hook from loop and insert a marker to prevent your stitch from coming undone. Work
short rows with the extra skein.
I: Ch 2. Skip the first 2 sc of round 4 (figure 1), sc in next 8 st, ch 2 and fasten off (figure 2) (8)
II: Ch 2, skip the first sc of the previous short row (figure 3) and sc in the next 6 st, ch 2 and
fasten off (6)
III: Ch 2, skip the first sc of the previous short row and sc in the next 4 st, ch 2 and fasten off (4)
5: Remove marker from the last loop from round 4 and resume working with your main skein. Sc
in the next 2 st. Sc in the unworked st of short row I, inc in the unworked st of short row II, sc
in all 4 st of short row III, inc in the unworked st of short row II, sc in the unworked st of
short row I. Sc in next st of round 4, sl st in the next st and fasten off leaving a long yarn end
for sewing. (14 st including the sl st)
Push the chains inside the leg, then add fiberfill to fill up the
remaining space. The bottom should be well stuffed, but leave the
slanted top half empty for now.

7
Rear feet and tail (make 3)

7: [invdec, sc in next st] 4 times (8)
Push fiberfill into the tip, but leave the rest of the feet/tail
unstuffed.
8: Flatten the piece so the last st is at a corner. Ch1, turn and
crocheting through both layers, sc 4 to close the piece.
Fasten off leaving long yarn end for sewing.
Upright ears (make 2 for Netherland dwarf)

1: 6 sc in magic ring, pull ring tight.
2: [inc, sc in next 2 st] twice (8)
Sl st to join to next st, fasten off leaving long yarn end for sewing.
Lop ears (make 2 for Holland lop)

1: 6 sc in magic ring, pull ring tight.
10: [invdec, sc in next 7 st] twice (16)
13: [invdec, sc in next 6 st] twice (14)
Sl st to join to next st, fasten off leaving long yarn end for sewing.
Assembly
Stuff the body tightly but fill the neck only loosely so there will be place for the head. Push the
head into the opening; only about 5-6 rounds of the nose should stick out in the front, and at the
back the body should reach to the point where you stitched the head closed. Pin the pieces
together and check that the bunny is symmetrical from each side. Use the yarn end you left to
sew the two parts together the neck is rather wide so it takes a while to get around stitch by
stitch, but be patient and make sure this seam is neat. When you get about ¾ around, stop to
finish stuffing the body (remove remaining pins for this). At this point, the gap will be wide

8
enough so you can use your finger to move around stuffing and make sure the fiberfill is evenly
packed everywhere. Then finish sewing head to neck.
Pin the front legs to the body, the highest point should be at round 24 where you put the marker.
Sew legs to body but stop while there is a small gap, and push fiberfill into the leg to fill up the
slanted part.
In this pose, rear legs are mostly hidden by the fluffy bottom, with only the foot tips sticking out.
Slide the foot into the triangular gap behind the front leg and pin it in place. Turn the bunny
upside down and sew the flat end to the belly, then make a few stitches between body and foot
near the tip, to anchor it in the correct position.
If you want a fuzzy tail, use a piece of Velcro or a pet slicker brush to fluff up the crochet fabric.
Then slide the tail under the bottom as far as it goes without lifting the body. Pin it in this place,
9
near the tail tip to anchor it in the correct position.
Upright ears Lop ears

Flatten the ears and fold Flatten the ears and pin them to the head: they should be right
them so that the base forms behind the eyes and just a little bit higher. Sew the outside
a C. Sew the ears to the layer to the head, then lift up the ear so you can sew on the
head so that the front inner ear as well. If the ears stick out too much, you can either
corner is at round 12 and stitch them to the head 1-2 rounds lower, or pin the ears
the ears look half forward down, moisten the ear bases and let dry to block them in the
and half to the sides. right position.
Nose and mouth

With embroidery floss and a big sharp needle, insert your needle between stitches at the
downside of the neck. Come out at A, leaving about 2- nd hanging free on the neck.
Make a loose stitch, going down at B. Come out at C, and gently tighten the floss so it pulls the
first stitch into a V shape.
Go down at D and come out again at E. Push your needle through under the vertical stitch, then
go down at F and get out at the downside of the neck, where you started from. Tighten the floss
to make the upturned V of the mouth.
Tie the two ends of the embroidery floss together, and hide the ends inside the stuffing.


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DWARF RABBITS

a crochet pattern by Kati Galusz

Abbreviations (aka you need to know how to do):

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

8: [inc, sc in next 9 st] 3 times (33)

20: [invdec, sc in next st] 6 times (12)

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

26: sc in next 5 st (figure 9) a sc in each of

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

Front legs (make 2)

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

Rear feet and tail (make 3)

Upright ears (make 2 for Netherland dwarf)

Lop ears (make 2 for Holland lop)

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

near the tail tip to anchor it in the correct position.

Upright ears Lop ears

Nose and mouth

A pattern by Kati Galusz (http://www.ravelry.com/people/Luna1130, http://www.etsy.com/shop/LunasCrafts)

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