BMW R60/5 Repair Manual
BMW R60/5 Repair Manual
BMW R60/5 Repair Manual
1
12. Fuel Petcock
13. Air Filter Housing
14. Choke Lever (R 15/5)
15. Kick Starter
16. Gear Shift Lever
17. Center Stand -- Side Stand
18. Foot Brake Lever
19. Lifting Handle
20. Dual Seat Lock
21. Dual Seat Release Button
22. Rear Spring Tensioner
23. Folding Passenger Foot Rests
Fig. 2-4
2
3
Instrument Cluster
1. High Beam Indicator Light, Blue
2. Speedometer with Odometer
3. Battery Charging Indicator Light, Red
4. Neutral Indicator Light, Green
5. Tachometer
6. Oil Pressure Indicator Light, Orange
Figure 5
5
Ignition and Light Switch
Pull protective slide cover forward and insert ignition key and push it down.
Position 1 of Ignition Key: The Ignition is switched on. The charge indicator shows
that the battery is adequately charged.
Position 2 of Ignition Key: The ignition and headlight are switched on.
Position 3 of Ignition Key: The ignition and the parking lights are switched on. When
pulling the key out from this position, the parking lights will stay on. Figure 6
7
Steering Damper
By turning the stering damper knob clockwise the friction damper will prevent the fork
from being turned while the motorcycle is parked or transported.
8
Fuel Petcock
Position 1: Fuel Petcock "open"
Position 2: Fuel Petcock "closed"
Position 3: Fuel Petcock "Reserve" Figure 9
10
From Starting to Riding
When engine is cold, depress both carburetor ticklers 2 seconds longer as the time at
which petrol is coming out of the overflow bore of the float bowl lower part (Models R
50/5 and R 60/5) or open choke as far as possible, never use intermediate position
(Model R 75/5).
When engine is hot, do not actuate ticklers or choke.
For starting, turn on ignition; red, green and orange indicator lights must be on.
Depress starter button. If you start manually depress kick starter briefly and then kick
through forcefully, only at warm engine eventually turn on throttle slightly (max. 1/4
turn). If engine (R 75/5) does not start when it is very hot, put choke for short time on
medium position, throttle closed.
At low outside temperatures, crank engine with kick starter two or three times, with
ignition switched off; actuate starter for no longer than 10 seconds to protect the battery.
A second attempt at starting which might become necessary should be made only after a
short pause of 20 to 30 seconds, and it must not be of much longer duration than the
first one.
A starter protection switch prevents unintentional repeat starting while the engine is
running; This protection switch is actuated by the alternator. Only if the engine RPM is
sufficient for the alternator to produce current will the starter lock. Please avoid
restarting the engine before it has stopped completely so that no damage will be done to
the teeth of the flywheel or the starter pinion.
When the engine has started and the idle speed increases, the oil pressure indicator
light (orange) and the charging indicator light (red) in the instrument cluster must go
out. If the oil pressure control lamp lights up while driving, declutch immediately and
turn off the ignition. If the engine oil level is adequate, consult your BMW dealer. If the
charging indicator light stays on during operation consult your BMW dealer. This is an
indication that your alternator is not working, and will ultimately result in a dead
battery.
Letting the engine idle for extented periods is harmful since this will cause the engine
to overheat. For Model R 75/5, switch off the choke latest when engine starts faulty
concentric running.
To start riding, disengage clutch, depress foot shift lever (neutral indicator lamp,
green, goes out), release clutch slowly and apply a little throttle at the same time. Proper
operation of the clutch increases its life; therefore, avoid popping the clutch in at high
RPM.
To shift into second, third and fourth gear, declutch and simultaneously release the
throttle, pull up foot shift lever once per gear, then let in clutch and apply throttle as
needed. Figure 11
11
To shift down from fourth into third, second and first gear, declutch and depress foot
shift lever once per gear and let in clutch.
To go to neutral from fourth, third or second gear when the motorcycle is standing still,
disengage clutch and shift to first by depressing the shift lever repeatedly and then "pull
up" the shift lever partially (green neutral indicator lights up).
A tip: Letting the clutch slip lightly facilitates down-shifting while the motorcycle is
standing still. Figure 12
12
To park the motorcycle, push the center stand down with your right foot so that both
roll-off brackets are on the ground. Put your full body weight on the foot pedal of the
center stand and pull the motorcycle up and backwards by the lifting handle, keep your
left hand on the handlebars to stabilize the motorcycle. Figure 13
13
Ready to Ride
Fuel: For perfect operation the Models R 60/5 and R 75/5 require the use of a brand-
name high test fuel with a minimum octane rating of 99 (ROZ). The Model R 50/5 can
be operated with regular gasoline, with a minimum octane rating of 92 (ROZ). In the
event you are forced to use gasoline with a lower octane rating, you can prevent
detonation by keeping the Engine RPM above 2500, by shifting down earlier than usual
and by turning the throttle very slowly.
Engine Oil: We recommend checking the oil level regularly. During the break-in it
should be checked every 300 miles. To top up always use the same brand and type, fill
only to the upper mark on the dip stick. Too much oil in the Engine is useless and may
cause damage. The amount of oil between the two marks on the dip stick amounts to 2.1
pints. The oil level must never be below the lower mark. Under no circumstances open
the filler cap while the engine is running! Push the dip stick in when checking, do not
screw it in.
Figure 14 14
If you desire to switch to a different brand of oil, do so only if you change the oil as
well as the filter.
Our engines are designed to operate with all high grade, brand name engine oils; they do
not require any additives. For types of recommended oil see Technical Data.
The same applies to transmission, rear wheel drive, and driveshaft housing.
Driving habits: Never allow the engine RPM to be too low. Always engage the next
lower gear, especially when going uphill. Downhill, the engine's braking effect may be
increased even more by shifting down to the next lower gear; but in doing so the
maximum RPM allowed must not be exceeded. Never ride in neutral with the clutch
depressed or, worse yet, with the ignition switched off.
Principally, use both brakes simultaneously for all braking-operations and brake softly
-- which means increase the pull or the pressure on the brake levers gradually so that the
wheels will never lock, if at all possible. Always shift to neutral when stopping. Do not
let the engine idle in gear with the clutch disengaged. Riding the clutch or letting it slip
for long periods of time causes local overheating and unnecessary wear.
Always turn off the ignition when stopping the engine and close the petcocks when
standing still for longer periods.
Travel Preparations
We recommend taking along the following spare parts when taking longer trips: one air
filter cartridge, one set of spark plugs and light bulbs, cylinderhead and cylinder base
gasket, some screws and nuts M6 + M8, spring washers, tying wire, rubber bands (appr.
0.2" wide, cut off from motorcycle or auto tubes) one pneumatic tube (always replace
punctured tubes). Should you own a motorcycle with considerable mileage, we suggest
you bring it to a BMW dealer to have it checked thoroughly. Before going on a trip it is
important to check the functioning and condition of the light and ignition systems, the
cylinderheads, cylinders, pistons, clutch, brakes, control cables, carburetor, wheels and
tires. If any repairs are necessary they should be accomplished before you start on your
trip.
If a trip is intended to take several months and also cover countries with difficult travel
conditions, it is recommended to add the following to the already mentioned spare parts:
a set of ignition points, a centrifugal spark advance, and a set of control cables, to be
attached parallel to the cables in the cycle with adhesive tape.
Servicing
Servicing should be performed, if possible, only by an authorized BMW dealer.
Tool Kit supplied with the motorcycle.
15
The service operations are described in detail on the following pages, in the same
order as in the Service Schedule.
Minor Major
Service Service
every every
3000 miles 6000 miles
1.Change engine oil, replace oil filter x1 x
2.Grease rear swing arm bearings x
3.Grease brake and clutch levers, throttle grip x x
4.Service battery x2 x
5.Transmission, oil level x x
oil
x3
change
6.Drive shaft housing oil level x x
oil
x3
change
7.Rear wheel drive oil level x x
oil
x3
change
8.Telescopic fork, oil change x3
9.Clean intake air filter x x
10.Check head and wheel bearing clearance x x
11.Brakes and Clutch x x
Check adjust carburetor, throttle cables, fuel
12. x x
valve
13.Check spark plugs x x
14.Check adjust breaker contact gap,
breaker lubricating felt, ignition timing x x
15.Check cylinder head nuts, valve clearance x
16.Check wheel spokes x
17.Check brakes x
18.Tighten nuts and screws x x
19.Test drive, final inspection x x
1
At least every 6 months, in winter every 1500 miles or every 3 months
2
At least once a month
3
At least once a year
Diagram of Lubricating Points
Figure 53
16
17
Remove oil pan after the first 1000 miles by unscrewing the allen-head screws (allen
wrench size 5), clean thoroughly including oil screen and reinstall with a new gasket.
Figure 18
18
Servicing Item 2: Rear Swing Arm Bearing
Check fit of the rear wheel swing arm bearing every 12000 miles by pulling the swing
arm back and forth firmly, hold on to the lifting handle with your left hand while pulling
the swing arm with your right hand. Figure 19
19
Readjust if necessary. To do this, remove plastic cap, loosen lock nut with socket
wrench from tool kit, preload both bearing bolts with a socket wrench at 14.4 + 1.4 lb/ft
and loosen again, then retighten to 7.2 + 1.4 lb/ft and secure with nut (approximately 72
lb/ft). Figure 20
20
Grease rear wheel swing arm bearing with grease gun; use grease gun with tapered
head. Figure 21
21
24
Oil Change: Change oil after engine has reached normal operating temperature, once a
year, unscrew oil drain plug (wrench size 19) and then oil filler plug (allen wrench size
8). After the old oil has drained, replace the drain plug tightly. Fill with new oil. Figure
25
25
26
Change oil while oil is at normal operating temperature, every 6000 miles, but at least
once a year. Unscrew oil drain plug and then oil filler plug (each use wrench size 17).
After old oil has drained, screw drain plug back in tightly. Fill with new oil. Figure 27
27
Amount of oil approximately 0.27 pints.
Oil level 0.08" over clutch cup with motorcycle parked
Type of oil name-brand hypoid gear oil SAE 90
28
Change Oil while oil is at normal operating temperature, every 6000 miles but at least
once a year. Unscrew oil drain plug (wrench size 19) and then oil filter plug (allen
wrench size 8). After the oil has drained, replace drain plug tightly. Fill with new oil.
Figure 28
29
Unscrew cover caps on top with pin wrench (from tool kit) to bleed the fork tubes.
Figure 30
30
Pull down both fork legs, let oil drain. Screw in bottom nuts, fill with new oil. Initial
filling capacity 280cc per fork leg, after draining, refill capacity 265cc.
Types of oil: Shock absorber oil Shell Aero Fluid 4, Shell 4001, Castrol BMW shock
absorber oil or BP OLEX HL 2463 (Aero-Hydraulik).
31
32
To do this, remove the steering damper knob, also the upper cap and lock washer.
Dismount head light but do not disconnect, let it hang down but protect it and the fender
with rags. Remove the right handlebar clamp by removing the two hex nuts (wrench
size 13); loosen left handlebar clamp. Remove clamp bolt from clamp ring (allen
wrench size 6). Loosen centering nut (wrench size 36) with box wrench (from tool kit).
The steering-head play can now be adjusted. Push the pin (from tool kit) through the
opening of the clamp ring into one of the holes of the split nut and turn clockwise to
tighten and counter-clockwise to loosen. Figure 33
33
34
The wheel bearing should be greased and adjusted every 6000 miles. This can be done
only by your authorized BMW dealer. He has the right tools and training to do this
properly. Every 12000 miles, check whether the wheel hubs are packed sufficiently with
grease. Check under Technical Data for the proper grease.
Also this work should only be made by an authorized BMW workshop.
35
Loosen lock nut 2 (wrench size 13) of the adjustment cam 1, turn internal hex to the left
with an allen wrench until it is tight, then turn it back to a point where the lower front
brake lever has a free movement of 4mm, measured at the cable anchor (3), before the
shoe is fully applied. Tighten lock nut 2. Now adjust the cable, but turning the nut 4
(wrench size 10) while holding the sleeve (wrench size 4), to get a free movement of the
upper brake lever before the uuper shoe is fully applied. Figure 36
36
Adjust the foot brake by turning the wing nut at the end of the brake rod to the right
until the rear wheel barely starts braking. Then back the wing nut off 3-4 turns.
Caution! If there is too little free movement, the brake could lock during operation.
Figure 37
37
The clutch is properly adjusted when there is play of approx. 0.08" at the clutch lever 3
on the transmission. The play is increased by turning the knurled cable adjuster into the
clutch lever hand joint, and decreased by unscrewing it. When this adjustment
possibility is exhausted, the play can be decreased by tightening the clutch adjustment
screw 2 (wrench size 10) after loosening the lock nut 1 (wrench size 13) at the clutch
lever on the transmission, and increased by turning it out. Lock the adjustment screw.
Figure 38
38
In an emergency, the carburetors may be disassembled and all fuel and air passages,
float needle, main and idle jets, as well as the float bowl, should be blown out with
compressed air. While doing this try not to turn the throttle stop screw for the throttle
slide or butterfly 1.
When reassembling, turn the idle air (idle mixture) screw or idle mixture regulating
screw 2 in fully. Then turn back for R 50/5 by 0,5-1,5 turns, for R 60/5 by 1/4-11/4 turns
or for R 75/5 by 1 turn.
Figure 39 R 50/5, R 60/5
Figure 40 R 75/5
39
40
Insert throttle slide (R 50/5, R 60/5) dry, and tighten the ring nut tightly by hand
(without plyers); make certain that the locating tab of the cover is placed properly into
the recess of the housing.
Insert vacuum piston (R 75/5) with diaphragm and needle valve without oil; place the
locating pin of the diaphragm so that it fits into the corresponding recess of the upper
part of the carburetor. The two pressure equalization holes in the vacuum piston must be
positioned near the butterfly. The upper diaphragm housing has to be positioned in such
a way that the cable adjustment screws are positioned near the butterfly and choke
levers. Insert the four screws and lock washers and tighten crosswise. When correctly
mounted, the diaphragm, only by its own weight, should be moveable in both final
positions on the guide bore. Install throttle cables and adjust to a free play of (.02--.04"),
with throttle grip closed. If necessary, adjust cables by loosening lock nut (wrench size
9) and make preliminary adjustment. Turning adjustment screw to the left reduces free
play, turning it to the right increases it. Both cables have to be adjusted exactly alike.
Figure 41
41
Adjust the idle while the engine is running, and after it has reached normal operating
temperature, with the throttle fully closed. Put adaptor (antistatic cartridge Beru EP 1)
into spark plug cap. This prevents the spark plug cap from being damaged while it is
removed from the spark plug and is placed on the cylinder while the engine is running.
The proper idling speed is between 600 and 800 RPM. If the engine idles at that speed,
check for even speed of both cylinders by alternately removing the spark plug cap.
Observe the tachometer or listen for even running during this check.
If the speed of both cylinders is uneven or if the idle speed is insufficient or excessive,
adjust the carburetors as follows: model R 50/5, R 60/5: correct this by adjusting the
slide stop screw 2, clockwise to increase, counter-clockwise to decrease speed.
For finding the most favorable petrol mixture turn idle air screw 1 carefully in either
direction. The correct mixture adjustment has been found when the cylinder runs the
fastest. Lock idle air regulating screw. Perform the same operations on the opposite
carburetor.
Figure 42, R 50/5, R 60/5
Figure 43, R 75/5
42
If the engine speed is now still not the prescribed 600-800 RPM, it can be decreased by
turning the throttle slide or butterfly stop screws 2 on both sides simultaneously
counter-clockwise or it can be increased by turning them clock-wise.
Model R 75/5
Adjust calbes of the starting device exactly alike to a free play of .02-.04". Back off
completely on both carburetors the cable adjustment screw, so that the butterfly lever is
not suspended on the throttle cable. Position the idle mixture regulating screw 1 and the
butterfly stop screw 2 of both carburetors into the basic setting: for this purpose, turn
the idle mixture regulating screw in fully, then turn it counterclockwise one turn. Turn
the butterfly stop screw inward until it just contacts the stop of the butterfly lever; then
turn the butterfly stop screw inward one turn. Operate cold engine to normalize engine
temperature; axtuate choke for starting.
Turn idle mixture regulating screw of both carburetors carefully in either direction until
best engine idle "Feel" is obtained (when cylinder runs the fastest).
Continue carburetor adjustment alternately on the left and right carburetor. Gradually
back off the butterfly stop screw and after each turning motion try to obtain best
posssible idle speed by means of the idle mixture regulating screw. Repeat this
procedure until the cylinder to be adjusted ceases to function after a few working
strokes, when operating alone (spark plug cap of the opposite cylinder being with-drawn
and provided with adaptor). According to recent experience, the correct mixture
adjustment has been found when the engine idles at 600-800 RPM.
Caution: never allow the engine to idle for more than 10 minutes.
Figure 43 R 75/5
43
To adjust the transition from idling to the part load range, turn the throttle slightly
so that the idling speed increases slightly. Check by alternately removing the spark plug
cap whether both cylinders operate evenly. If necessary, adjust the throttle cable of the
slower cylinder to have less free play. Secure with hex nut (wrench size 9).
Fuel Petcock
Disassemble adn clean the screen of the fuel petcock every 6000 miles.
1. Close the fuel petcock -- lever 4 points down
2. Unscrew octagonal nut 8 (wrench size 24).
3. Remove hose connection 7 and screen 5, clean screen in gasoline and blow out.
4. Replace gasket 6, if damaged. Reassemble screen 5.
44
45
Rub a small amount of Bosch grease Ft 1 v 4 into the lubrication felt every 6000 miles
and check whether the felt rests properly on the cam. Remove the centrifugal advance
unit every 6000 miles. To do this, first remove the hex nut (wrench size 10). After you
withdraw the advance unit lubricate the shaft with Bosch grease Ft 1 v 22 or 26. Watch
for proper spring action. Check ignition every 3000 miles or after each readjustment of
the breaker contact gap.
(a) Connect one terminal of test lamp to condenser 1, the other to ground 2, with
ignition switched on. Figure 46
46
Test lamp must light up when the "S" marking at the flywheel coincides with the
window marking as the engine is turned clockwise (direction of engine rotation) -- (fly
weights at rest). Figure 47
47
The ignition timing may fluctuate between the left and the right cylinder a maximum of
2o (which corresponds to 0.1" of the flywheel diameter).
(b) Put timing light between spark plug cap and spark plug and direct light against the
flywheel periphery in the window with the engine running. At idling speed of the engine
(600 to 800 RPM), the flywheel marking "S" (late spark) must appear in the window as
a bright line; if the bright line is above center, the spark is too far advanced, if below
center, the spark is too far retarded. By increasing the engine RPM the "S" mark will
disappear toward the top (movement starts approx. at 800 RPM) until the flywheel
marking "F" (advanced timing) appears in the window from below at 3000 RPM (full
advance).
Adjust timing: Loosen the two slotted screws 1 in the breaker base plate. Turning the
base plate in the direction of rotation retards the timing; turning it against the direction
of rotation advances the timing (direction of rotation of crank-shaft and cam-shaft is the
same). After completion of adjustment retighten the two screws. Figure 48
48
When checking the ignition timing with a test lamp, turn the engine approximately 45 o
against the direction of rotation before test (test lamp goes out). This will eliminate any
possible lost motion. Recheck timing with timing light. If the timing is incorrect, check
trueness of shaft (max. 0.0008") and ease of travel of the cam of the centrifugal advance
unit on the shaft.
49
If necessary, retighten cylinder head nuts and nuts as shown on diagram with torque
wrench (25 + 2.8 lb/ft). Figure 50
50
Check valve clearance -- required after each retightening of the cylinder head nuts --
with feeler gage between valve stem and rocker arm when engine is stopped and cold.
To do this, unscrew spark plugs and turn engine over with allen wrench (wrench size 6)
at the alternator rotor bolt until the cylinder to be adjusted is at compression top dead
center. Both valves are closed. If necessary, readjust clearance (wrench size 12) after
loosening the lock nut (wrench size 12), secure with lock nut, recheck valve clearance.
Figure 51
51
Figure 55
55
56
Tire Changing
To remove the tire, deflate, push the tire from the rim inward. Unscrew valve nut, push
valve into tire. Observe the safty notches in the rim. Push the tire bead into the rim well
on the side opposite the safety notches and start lifting the bead off the rim on the side
of the safety notches with the tire irons. Remove tube and completely remove tire from
wheel in the same manner. Figure 57
57
To mount the tire, push the tire bead into the rim well on the side opposite the safety
notches; the red point of the tire should be in height of the valve. Lift the tire over the
rim flange step by step, without using force, and uniformly on both sides with the help
of the tire irons, apply talcum powder. Insert tube and secure valve with the lock nut; do
not tighten lock nut; turn it on 4-5 turns; inflate slightly. Push the second bead of the tire
over the rim into the rim well, again first on the side opposite safety notches; in doing
so, the valve must be pushed back until the safety nut makes contact. Proceed to push
the tire bead over the rim flange with the tire irons. Inflate tire, make certain that the
check line has an equal distance from the rim edge over its entire circumference on both
sides. Balance tire. Figure 58
58
Head Light Bulbs, Bulbs for Control Lights, Speedometer Lighting, and Turn
Signals should be replaced as follows
Use screw driver to pry the headlight rim off the head light. Remove bulb holder from
reflector. To remove bulb from holder, push it in and twist and then withdraw. When
refitting the bulb holder take care that the locating tab of the holder lines up with the
recess on the reflector. Figure 59
59
Remove the parking light bulb from the reflector through the bulb holder opening. Do
not touch the reflector surface. All sockets for the control lights and the speedometer
lighting can be withdrawn from their receptacles. The bulbs can be removed by pushing
them into the socket while simultaneously turning them to the left.
Caution! The charging indicator light (red) must be lit when the ignition switch is
switched on. The charging of the battery during operation depends upon the charging
control light working properly; use only a 12 V 4 W bulb. Pull flasher from its socket.
When reassembling, place head light insert into the top of the edge of the head light
housing, push it against the head light housing at the bottom making certain that the
locating tab is properly positioned. Ascertain that the holding springs are fully engaged.
Disassembly of turn signals and tail/stop light
The turn signal lens and tail light lens can be removed after the two philips-head screws
have been removed. The turn signal and tail light bulbs are removed by pushing them in
and simultaneously turning them to the left. Figures 60 and 61
60
61
Observe the marking "top" when reinstalling the turn signal lens. Make certain that the
clear portion of the tail light lens faces down.
Check the pressure and correct, if necessary. Place motorcycle on its wheels with the
rider aboard on a level surface 161/2 feet from a light-colored wall. The rear springs
should be set for solo operation. Measure distance from ground to head light center,
mark this distance on the wall with a cross and draw another cross 2" below the first
one. Switch on low beam and align the head light, so that the bright-dark boundary runs
from the left, from the center of the lower cross, rising to the right to the horizontal line
of the upper cross (161/2 feet) and then falls off. Figure 62
62
Specifications
1. Engine
The engine in the R 50/5, R60/5 and R 75/5 is an air-cooled, two-cylinder, four cycle
spark-ignition engine.
The engine housing is designed as a one-piece tunnel housing, reinforced by internal
gussets; it accomodates the crankshaft and the camshaft.
The one-piece crankshaft is drop-forged steel. Great rigidity is achieved by amply
dimensioning the main journals which overlap the connecting rod bearing journals. The
main and the connecting rod bearing surfaces are treated to have a high surface hardness
and abrasion resistance.
The crankshaft runs in three-layer bearings, pressed into a die-forged alloy bearing
retained in the front and into the crankcase in the rear. Careful dynamic balancing of the
crankshaft assures minimum vibration. The split connecting rods run on the crankpins
also in three-layer bearings. They are die-forged, with an I-profile. The expansion-type
connecting rod bolt is screwed directly into the connecting rod caps. Locating pins
assure insert alignment. The wrist pin runs in a bronze bushing.
The camshaft is a case-hardened die casting, phosphated for better glide characteristic.
It is located below the crankshaft and runs directly in the engine housing in the rear and
in a flanged aluminum bearing in the front. In the rear, the camshaft carries the internal
rotor of the oil pump. It is driven from the front through a sprocket. The ignition
advance unit and the tachometer drive gear is also located in the front of the camshaft.
The pistons are aluminum alloy cast and equipped with three piston rings; the top ring
is hard-chromed, the second is a nose ring, the third is an oil scavenger ring. The large
dimensioned off center wrist pin is floating and is secured against axial movement by
circlips.
The cylinders are cast iron sleeves with aluminum fins manufactured by utilizing the
Al-Fin process. This assures excellent heat dissipation thereby assuring good oil
adhesion. Two push rod protection tubes are pressed into the bottom of the cylinder and
sealed against the motor housing with rubber sleeves; they also serve as oil return tubes.
The cylinder is sealed to the engine housing with a combination aluminum fiber gasket,
and to the cylinder head with a metal-asbestos gasket.
The aluminum alloy cylinder head is carefully fined and equipped with shrunk-in valve
seats (fine pearlitic gray iron for the intake, high alloy gray iron for the exhaust). The
valve guides are press-fitted.
With the cylinder interposed, the cylinder head is connected to the engine housing by
four through-bolts. In addition, two bolts connect the cylinder head directly to the
cylinder. Attached to the through-bolts are, at the same time, also the rocker arm blocks.
The rocker arms pivot on floating bronze bushings. This cylinder head design utilizing
pressed-in sleeves and protection tubes permits the cooling air to reach the areas that are
subject to the highest temperatures, this assures maximum cooling.
The valves are actuated by the camshaft through hardened followers, push rods, and
rocker arms. A duplex chain drives the camshaft at half the crankshaft speed. The
stretching of the duplex chain is compensated for by a spring loaded (leaf spring) chain
tightener. The push rod has approximately the same coefficient of expansion as the
cylinder, maintaining constant valve clearance.
The exhaust valves have a highly heat conductive, ferritic, stem and an austenitic, scale
resistant, head; in addition, the valve stems are hard-chrome plated, the valve seat has a
coating plated onto it. The keeper arrangement allows the valves to rotate during
operation.
2. Lubricating System
The engine has a high pressure lubricating system with a main flow filter. The oil pump
is an Eaton trochoid-gear pump, driven by the camshaft. It sucks the oil from the oil pan
through an immersed bell with a perforated screen, pumps it through the main
lubricating passages into the main flow filter and from there through an annular passage
in the camshaft bearing flange to the annular passage in the main bearing cover. From
the annular passage of the bearing cover the oil flows, first, through a hole in the left
side wall of the engine housing to the rear main bearing and then, through two holes
leading obliquely upward in the two side walls of the engine housing, to the upper tie
rod bolts. Through the two upper through bolt holes in the cylinder it gets to the tappet
bearing blocks and shafts; there it lubricates the tappet bearings and the valve
mechanism. From the two already mentioned oblique holes in the left and right housing
wall, passages, also oblique, lead to the annular groove of the cylinder from which the
cylinder wall is lubricated. The connecting rods are lubricated through holes in the
crankshaft, receiving their oil from the annular groove of the front or rear main bearing
sleeve. The rear camshaft bearing is lubricated directly by the oil pump. The timing
chain dips into the oil sump and splashes oil over all parts inside the timing cover.
The crankcase ventilation is accomplished by guiding the fumes against the direction
of rotation of the crankshaft, through a settling chamber in which the oil mist can
separate to a check valve. From there it is introduced into the intake.
3. Carburetors
The models R 50/5 and R 60/5 are equipped with two Bing slide type carburetors with a
26 mm throat with removable, concentric float housing. The carburetors are inclined
and attached to the cylinder head with a clamp ring.
The ruel flows into the float bowl 4 and is there kept at a constant level at all times by
means of the plastic double float 5 which actuates the float needle valve 11 through a
coupling 10. For starting, the fuel level can be raised temporarily by depressing the
tickler so that the engine receives a richer mixture. The outside of the float housing is
vented. From the float housing, the fuel goes to the main and the idle jets. The main jet
6 is screwed into the lower mixing tube end 8 together with the main jet support 7. The
needle jet 12, into which a conical needle 16 is immersed, is located at at the upper
mixing tube end. The needle, together with the throttle slide 17, is raised and lowered by
the throttle cable 18. The throat and main fuel discharge nozzle are thereby varied
simultaneously. A small amount of air passes through passage 14 thereby aerating the
fuel in the main fuel discharge nozzle to aid the atomization. The piston 9 of the
accelerating pump, located in the mixing tube 8 and actuated by the slide needle,
enriches the fuel/air mixture during slow and fast acceleration. In the carburetor throat
15 the fuel strikes the intake air and is now fully atomized before it reaches the engine's
combustion chamber.
The fuel sucked from the float chamber through the idling jet 3 is mixed with the air
flowing in from an idle air passage 1, hte volume of which is adjusted by the idle air
regulating screw 13, and it enters the air funnel directly behind the throttle slide through
a small hole 2. A richer mixture is obtained by screwing the idle air regulating screw in,
a leaner mixture by screwing it out. The idle speed is regulated by the throttle slide stop
screw. The fuel/air mixture is adjusted with the idle mixture screw. A provision is made
to allow fuel to flow overboard in case the gastank fuel petcock is left on.
The vacuum type carburetor with
butterfly (Model R 75/5)
The model R 75/5 is equipped with two Bing vacuum type carburetors with a 32 mm
throat with concentric float bowl. The carburetors are inclined and flexibly attached to
the cylinder head through a rubber sleeve and two clamps. The fuel enters the float
housing 8 where it is kept at a constant level a tall times through a plastic double float
13 which actuates the float needle valve 9 through a pivot. The float bowl is vented in 2
places.
The idle system functions completely independently of the main jet system. The fuel
sucked through the idling jet 16 is mixed in the chamber 17 with the air coming from
the idling air passage 5, and enters the throat behind the butterfly valve 21 trough a
small passage. The fuel mixture for idling can be regulated by means of the idling
mixture screw 15 and the idling fuel quantity can be adjusted by means of the butterfly
valve set screw.
A by-pass passage 18, is provided to aid the transition from the idle to the main fuel
system. It becomes operative only when the butterfly valve 21 is open slightly.
The starting device of the butterfly valve carburetor is a complete auxiliary carburetor
which is equipped with a rotary valve. It functions only during starting and when the
engine is cold. It can be turned on and off by the operator through cables. A space inside
the float housing is designed as a starter fuel reservoir, into which a starter immersion
tube is introduced from above. The vacuum developing when starting now has its effect,
since the butterfly valve is almost closed (idling position) on the escape passage of the
chocke behind the butterfly valve and, hence, also upon the starter immersion tube; the
fuel in the starter reservoir, being replenished from the float bowl, is thus syphoned off
and mixed in the mixing chamber of the rotary valve with the starter air entering
through a calibrated hole, forming a bubbly mixture. This very fuel-rich starter mixture
then meets the air flowing through the butterfly valve gap and forms the starting
mixture which assures perfect starting, even at low temperatures. After the engine has
started, a pre-emulsion is formed in the starter immersion tube through a calibrated air
hole, which makes the starting mixture leaner to the point where continued smooth
running of the engine during the start is assured.
Turn off the choke system as soon as possible so as to avoid excess fuel consumption
and a wash-off of the oil-film from the cylinder walls.
The carburetors are adjusted at the factory, to operate with commercially
available fuels. Changing the jets and the position of the needle is required only in
special cases and should be left to the specialist.
4. Clutch
A single disc dry clutch connects the engine crank shaft and the transmission input
shaft 8. When the clutch is engaged the diaphragm spring 2 presses the pressure plate 3
and the clutch disc 6 against the pressure ring 7 which is bolted to the flywheel 5. This
establishes the power connection between transmission and engine, since the flywheel is
rigidly connected to the engine crank shaft, and the clutch plate is connected rigidly to
the transmission drive shaft.
A diaphragm is spot welded to the pressure plate 3 between flywheel and pressure ring.
This diaphragm allows the pressure plate freedom of axial movement, and it transmits a
part of the engine torque.
The clutch plate, equipped with bonded friction lining, is mounted on the splines of the
tranmission input shaft and is movable in an axial direction. Spacer bushings 1 between
flywheel 5 and pressure ring 7 provide slots through which the abraded clutch particles
can escape. The slots also facilitate cooling of the clutch.
To disengage the engine from the transmission, the clutch lever 10, actuated by the
clutch cable, presses through a push rod 12 against the pressure plate 3, this compresses
the diaphragm spring 2; The contact between the clutch plate and the pressure plate and
the pressure ring 7 is interrupted. The clutch lever pivots in a bearing block cast into the
transmission cover. After the clutch hand lever is released, the clutch lever is returned
into its initial position by a spring 11.
5. Transmission
The double loop tubular frame made of oval tubes of great strength is of welded
construction. In the area of the steering head, the transom tubes intersect the spinal tube.
This permits a certain longitudinal elasticity of the steering head without affecting the
very great torsional rigidity. Moreover, the tunnel for the fuel tank can be kept very
shallow.
The rear portion of the frame, a very light triangular structure, is bolted to the double
loop tubular frame and is readily detached.
The passenger foot rests can be folded. They are adjustable for the most comfortable
position.
The engine is mounted in the frame with 2 studs, interconnecting both frame transoms.
The fuel tank, capacity is approximately 6.35 gallons. The fuel tank is rubber mounted
with a form fitting rubber element in front, on two vibration dampening rubber blocks in
the rear. This eliminates stress. Two wing nuts enable quick removal.
Two fuel petcocks are screwed directly into the tank. They are equipped with two fuel
intake tubes each, the longer one being so dimensioned that a fuel reserve of 1 gallon
remains in the tank. The same fuel level in both tank halves is assured due to an
equalizer line which passes through the air filter chamber.
For parking, the motorcycle is provided with a center stand and a side stand.
The chassis is not suited for side car use.
The rear wheel is driven by a drive shaft which runs in an oil bath in the rear swing arm.
The universal joint mounted on the drive shaft on the transmission side, is bolted to a
drive flange mounted to the taper of the output shaft of the transmission. An internally
splined coupling is mounted to the rear of the shaft and is connected to the rear drive.
The teeth are curved to allow lateral movement. This helical tooth coupling
compensates for the required variation in the length of the drive-shaft.
The rear wheel drive pinion runs in front in a double-row, slanting ball bearing with
split inner race; in the rear in a needle bearing; the spur bevel gear with which it meshes
runs in a needle bearing on the outside, in a ball bearing on the wheel side. Drive pinion
and spur bevel gear are spiral gears which run completely noiselessly due to their
careful running-in treatment and adjustment during assembly. The bevel gear dips in an
oil bath and supplies the bevel gear set and the bearings with oil. A splined connection
takes over the function of power transmission from the bevel spur gear to the rear
wheel. This connection makes dismounting of the rear wheel easy.
The rear wheel drive housing and the housing cover are made of a very strong
aluminum alloy and are bolted together. The rear wheel drive is vented through a
passage, located in a dome, cast in the upper portion of the housing.
To prevent possible oil leakages through the radial sealing ring located in housing cover
toward the brake linings spurious oil is directed through a hole, next to the drain plug,
overboard. The ratio of of the rear wheel drive varies, depending on the model (see
Technical Data).
8. The telescopic front fork
The fork stem of the telescopic front fork turns in two tapered roller bearings to assure
rigid frictionless mounting without play. An upper steel fork yoke and a lower forged
aluminum fork yoke hold the hard chrome plated steel fork tubes. The aluminum fork
legs slide up and down on the fork tubes. The shock absorbers are fastened into the
bottom of each fork leg. The shock absorbers thus slide inside the fork tubes. A nozzle
is screwed into the bottom of each fork tube. These nozzles provide damping on
extension while calibrated holes in the shock absorber itself provide damping on
compression. An important role is played in this process by the damper chamber located
between the hydraulic piston screwed onto the shock absorber tube and the damping
nozzle. The valve attached on the bottom of the hydraulic piston closes the damper
chamber on extension (in tension) so that oil must flow through the damper nozzle and
opens it under compression so that the oil can escape through the calibrated holes in the
damper tube and return from the spring chamber into damper chamber. Since the
outside diameter of the damper tube is tapered conically at both ends, the damper nozzle
provides for a hydraulic stop in the lowest and highest fork position. A valve at the
lower end of the shock absorber tube prevents the fork tubes from jamming, should the
fork be moved beyond the hydraulic stop.
A progressively wound spring in the fork tube supports itself on top in a fixed spring
retainer and at the bottom against the hydraulic shock absorber. The two fork legs are
interconnected by a strong tubular yoke which provides the required torsional rigidity
and supports the fender. The turning angle of the front fork is 46o in both directions.
9. Rear wheel springing
The rear wheel is guided by a long swing arm, held in the frame by two adjustable
tapered roller bearings.
These are adjusted to have no play. This mounting allows a small amount of
adjustability for adjustment of the tracking. Road shocks are absorbed and attenuated by
two spring shock units. The bottom of these shock legs are attached at the bottom to the
swing arm on one side and to the rear drive unit on the other. On the top they are
attached to the frame. A progressively wound carrying spring per spring leg is
supported at the bottom by the adjusting sleeve, on the top by the protective tube. While
the lower connecting eyes of the spring legs are welded to the outside tubes of the
hydraulic shock absorbers, the upper spring leg eyes are screwed to the shock rod.
The end stop for retracted springs is a double tapered rubber plug between the upper
spring leg eye and the shock absorber. The stop for the extended springs is a plastic plug
inside the double-acting hydraulic shock absorber. The preload of the progressively
acting carrying spring can be adjusted to three positions, depending on the load carried,
through an adjustment sleeve attached to the spring legs and resting against an adjusting
cam.
The Boge automatic leveler, "Nivomat", a hydro-pneumatic strut with automatic self-
leveling can be furnished as optional equipment instead of the conventional struts
(hydraulic shock absorber and helical spring). The advantage of the Boge automatic
leveler is to be found in its load-dependent damping action resulting in always the same
normal position and in comfortable spring action regardless of load.
When the motorcycle is loaded the rear springs initially will compress to a point
commensurate with the load. As soon as the vehicle is set in motion the rear suspension
due to the reverse torque of the drive and irregularities of the road surface will pump
itself up to the correct level. After traveling a short distance the pressure rises in the
high pressure portion of the unit due to this pumping action so that the motorcycle's rear
structure is raised to the normal level; regulating holes prevent continued raising. When
the load is removed from the motorcycle, the regulating holes provide for pressure
equalization to the inflation pressure of the unit. The working media used in the Boge
Nivomat are shock absorber oil and nitrogen.
Caution the high filling pressure is likely to cause accidents as the Boge leveler is
opened. Repairs should be left exclusively to the maker.
Removed Boge levelers should be stored absolutely in vertical position; otherwise
danger of defects.
The dual seat flips open from the right revealing the tool kit and tire pump. It can be
locked and utilizes the same key as the steering lock.
The dual seat is not independently sprung so as not to interfere with the carefully
balanced front and rear suspension. It has a thick foam rubber cushion.
The wheels have aluminum alloy safety drop center rims with a provision to prevent the
tire from dismounting in case of rapid deflation. 40 straight spokes each connect the
rims with the full-hub brake drums. Two exactly adjusted and readjustable tapered roller
bearings provide for easy running of the wheels without axial play. The bearings are
sealed to the outside dust and are water-tight through the use of a special multi-lip
corrugated sealing ring toward the brake drum by an oil-impregnated enclosed felt ring.
12. Brakes
Both front and rear wheels are equipped with large area ribbed, light metal, full hub
brake drums with cast-in gray cast iron rings. The front wheel brake is designed as a
double leading-shoe brake. Both brake levers are moved in opposite directions by a
cable; the applied pressure of both brake shoes is the same regardless of the braking
force applied. Return springs of varying strength enable the uniform adjustment of both
brake shoes.
The rear wheel is equipped with a simplex internal shoe brake with one leading and one
trailing brake shoe; the rear wheel brake is actuated by the foot brake lever through a
linkage.
The brake linings are bonded to the brake shoes, and they consist of a material whose
coefficient of friction does not decrease with heat. All brake levers are made of forged
aluminum. The stop light is lit when either the front or the rear wheel brake is applied.
in addition there is the battery located underneath the tool box, the two spark plugs and the
lighting, signaling, and monitoring systems. Figures 63 and 64
63 64
The three-phase alternator consists of a rotor running in the stator housing and
mounted at the front end of the cranks haft on a taper. The energizing current of the
alternator is supplied via two slip rings. Attached to the front cast ring of the stator is
the carbon brush holder with two plug connections. Opposite this there is a strip with
three plug connections for the current take-off. Already during a fast idle the three-
phase generator delivers power thus assuring a sufficient power supply, even under
increasing loads. The current flowing through the charging current control light
serves to pre-energize the three-phase generator; if there is no defect in the electrical
system, the charging current control light goes out when the idle speed is increased.
The diodes at the diode plate 1 provide for the rectification of the three-phase current
furnished by the generator. A mechanical contactor 6 is used as a voltage regulator
mounted underneath the tank to the spinal tube of the frame.
The centrifugal timing advance provides for the advance of the spark timing when
speed increases.
The breaker interupts at a predetermined moment the primary circuit of the ignition
coils. This induces the 8,500 -- 13 000 volts in the secondary winding of the ignition
coil necessary to ignite the fuel-air mixture. The primary job of the condenser is to
keep sparking of the breaker points to a minimum. The starter consists of a series-
wound D.C. motor with starter pinion and slip clutch device.
Technical Data
R 50/5 R 60/5 R 75/5
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Four cycle opposed-twin with
Engine Engine model
hemispherical combustion
chambers
____________ ________________ _______ _ ________________ ____________
_________ ____________ _____ _ ____ ________________
HP at
Greatest actual output
RPM
HP at
36 / 6600 46 / 6600 57 / 6400
RPM
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Output per 1000 cc HP / liter 72 76 76
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
lb/ft at
Maximum torque 29 / 5000 36 / 5000 43 / 5000
RPM
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Maximum speed
7000 7000 7000
permissible RPM
speed
Permissible Cruising 6500 6500 6300
RPM
speed
Idling 600 - 800 600 - 800 600 - 800
RPM
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Max. permissible
speed during
break-in period
up to 600 miles RPM 4000
up to 1200 miles RPM 5000
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
ft/sec at
Average piston speed 50.6 / 6400 50.6 / 6400 47.9 / 6200
RPM
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Number of cylinders 2 2 2
Cylinder arrangement opposed
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Cylinder bore mm 67 73.5 82
Piston stroke mm 70.6 70.6 70.6
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Effective stroke
c.c 498 599 745
volume
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Compression ratio 8.6:1 9.2:1 9.0:1
_____________ _________________ _______ _ __________ __________ __________
________ ___________ _____ _ ______ ______ ______
Dwell angle adjustment at .08"
valve
clearance (tolerance + 2.5o)
Intake opens ATDC ATDC 10o BTDC
Intake closes 40 ABDC 40 ABDC 50o ABDC
o o
Wiring diagram
BL = blue
BR = brown
GE = amber
GR = grey
GN = green
RT = red
SW = black
WS = white
Servicing
at 300 miles
1. Change oil in the engine only when engine has reached normal operating
temperature replace oil filter cartridge.
2. Check torque of the four nuts for the trough studs (cylinder and cylinder head
and locker arm attachment) and of the two additional cylinder head bolts (25
lb/ft), tighten if necessary.
Figure 19
3. Check valve clearance, adjust if necessary. Intake = 0.006 inches, exhaust =
0.008 inches.
4. Check timing.
at 1000 miles
1. Change oil in the engine only when engine has reached normal operating
temperature, clean oil pan and oil screen.
2. Lubricate rear wheel swing arm bearings.
3. Lubricate brake and clutch levers and throttle assembly.
4. Service battery.
5. Change transmission oil.
6. Change oil in drive shaft housing.
7. Change rear wheel drive oil.
8. Change telescopic fork oil.
9. Clean air filter (blow out)
10. Check fork and wheel bearings, adjust if needed.
11. Adjust brakes and clutch.
12. Clean carburetor and adjust if needed, check throttle cables and adjust. Clean
petcock screen.
13. Check electrode gap of spark plugs.
14. Check contact breaker cap and ignition timing.
15. Tighten cylinder head nuts (25 lb/ft), then adjust valve clearance when engine is
cold.
16. Tighten nuts and screws, (observe torque figures, see Technical Data).
17. Tighten wheel spokes.
18. Test drive.