FordFiesta ST GP.N Build Manual V 1.0

FordFiesta ST Gp.
N
Build Manual
Future updates will always be available on
www.fiestasportingtrophy.co.uk
www.fiestasportingtrophy.com
Version 1.0 February 2006

Contents
Introduction 1
Tools and Consumables 1
Chapter 1 Shell Preparation 2
1.1 Bolt-In Roll Cage 2

1.2 Weld In Rollcage 19
1.3 Welded Seat Rail Mounting 19
1.4 Seatbelt Mounts 27
1.5 Sump Guard 29
1.6 Bonnet / Boot Pins 36
1.7 Blanking Plates 41
Chapter 2 Shell Build 42
2.1 Bodyshell Sealing 42

2.2 Standard Wiring Loom 44
2.3 Electronic Fire Extinguisher System 46
2.4 Composite Underfloor Protection 53
2.5 Required Rollcage Padding 57
2.6 Recommended Rollcage Padding 59
2.7 Recommended Exhaust Heat Shields 61
2.8 Spare Wheel Bar Installation 62
2.9 Spare Wheel Ratchet Strap 64
Chapter 3 Steering, Suspension & Mounts 65
3.1 Rear Beam Bushes 65

3.2 Steering Rack Thread Locking 66
3.3 Reiger Adjustable Dampers 68
3.4 Springs 71
3.5 Up-rated Wishbones 73
Chapter 4 Braking System 74
4.1 ABS Unit 74

4.2 Brake Bias Valve 75
4.3 Brake Lines 77
4.4 Handbrake Cables 85
4.5 Competition Brake Pads 86
Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual I

Chapter 5 Fuel System 88
5.1 Fuel Kit 88

5.2 Fuel Tank Preparation 91
5.3 Fuel Tank Guard Fitting 92
5.4 Fuel Filter Installation 93
5.5 Braided Fuel Line Installation 95
5.6 Fuel Tank Fitting 99
5.7 Roll Over Valve Installation 100
5.8 Fuel Tank Filler Protection 102
Chapter 6 Group N Electrical 106
6.1 Group N Auxiliary Loom 106

6.2 Dash Warning Light Removal 128
6.3 Electrical Notes 129
6.4 06 Spec Cars Additional Instructions 129
Chapter 7 Engine 130
7.1 Uprated Engine Mount RH 130

7.2 Uprated Engine Mount LH 133
7.3 Stainless Steel Exhaust System 134
7.4 Stainless Steel Competition Catalyst 135
7.5 Air Filter 136
7.6 Modified Engine ECU 137
Chapter 8 Interior 138
8.1 Seat Rails 138

8.2 Seat Harness Mounting Bar & Lap Strap/Crotch Strap 139
Installation
8.3 Seats and Harness Shoulder Straps 142
8.4 Composite Co-driver Foot Rest 144
8.5 Carbon Composite Driver Foot Tray Installation 147
8.6 Steering Wheel and Hub 148
8.7 Hand Held Fire Extinguisher 150
8.8 Lightweight Wheel Brace 153
8.9 Spare Wheel Mounting Tray 155
8.10 Crash Helmet Net 155
Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual II

Chapter 9 Exterior 156
9.1 Front Wheel Mudflaps 156

9.2 Rear Wheel Mudflaps 158
9.3 Roof Vent 159
9.4 Rear Beam Protection (Back Flaps) 164
9.5 Sumpguard Side Protection 168
9.6 Air Horn 171
9.7 Wheel Scraper 174
9.8 Exterior Trim 176
9.9 Lamp Pod 177
Chapter 10 Wheels 180
10.1 Wheels 180

10.2 Tyres 180
Chapter 11 Transmission 181
11.1 Up-rated Clutch Fitting 181

11.2 Dog Engagement Gear Kit (5 Speed) incl. Plated LSD 183
11.3 Up-rated Roll Resistor Gearbox Mount 185
Chapter 12 Recommended Setup 186
12.1 Fluids 186

12.2 Suspension Setup 186
Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual III

Introduction
This Build Manual is to be used as a guide only.

Please ensure as you build this car all fixings are tightened and torqued as required.
Recommended Tools
MIG welder
Angle grinder
Hand drill
Various drill bits
Spot weld drill bit
Step drill
Centre drill
19mm hole saw
22mm hole saw
25mm hole saw
30mm hole saw
78mm hole saw
Countersink drill bit
Allen Keys
Spanners
Sockets
Centre punch
Rivet gun
Tin snips
Pliers
Hacksaw
Mallet
Hammer
Pipe cutter
Torque wrench (capable of 120Nm)
Soldering iron
4 Pin socket
Spring compressor
Tape Measure
Scraper
Ford Clutch Alignment Tool - 308-204 (16-067)
Recommended Consumables
You will require a various amount of certain consumables for the build.
If you require any information about consumables, or where to obtain them contact M-Sport.
Sikaflex / Silicone sealant

Washers M3 – M12
Rivets 3mm – 5mm
Plain nuts M4 – M10
Nyloc nuts M4 – M10
Silver tape
Various cable ties
Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 1

Cable tie fittings
Heat shrink
Electricians tape
Masking tape
Degreaser
Lockwire
Heat shielding
Hex head bolts M5 – M10
Button head bolts M5 – M10
Plate 1mm, 1.2mm and 3mm thick
Threadlock
- Loctite 648
- Loctite 243
Chapter 1 - Shell Preparation
1.1 Bolt-In Rollcage
Overview
The Fiesta Group N uses a comprehensive (FIA/RACMSA Compatible) bolt-in rollcage. However
some welding is required to install the shell reinforcing plates and some additional cage bars.
Before the rollcage can be fitted the car should be stripped down to a bare shell.
Parts Required
1 x Main Hoop
1 x Seat Belt Bar
2 x Main Hoop Braces
2 x Front Legs
2 x Door Bars
1 x Windscreen Bar
1 x Roof Cross
2 x A Pillar Mount
2 x Front Foot Reinforcing Plates
2 x Main Hoop Reinforcing Plates
2 x Rear Feet Reinforcing Plates
16 x Joint Sleeves (+ Bolts & Nyloc Nuts)
18 x M10 x 30 Cap Head Bolts
8 x M8 x 20 Dome Head Bolts
2 x M10 x 45 Cap Head Bolts
8 x M10 Nyloc Nuts
8 x M8 Nyloc Nuts
4 x M10 Top Hats (A & B Pillars)
12 x M10 Washers
8 x M8 Washers
8 x M10 Nuts
2 x B Pillar Spacers

Rollcage Assembly
1 Main Hoop
2 Left Front Leg
3 Right Front Leg
4 Left Door Bar
5 Right Door Bar
6 Screen Bar
7 Roof Cross
8 Left Front
Reinforcing Plate
9 Right Front
Reinforcing Plate
10 Rear Left
Reinforcing Plate
11 Rear Right
Reinforcing Plate
Once the interior has been removed from the shell it is recommended that all sound deadening
material is stripped from the inside and the under seal removed. This can be done by carefully
warming up the material with a heat gun before using a good sharp scraper. Any material left
can be removed using a wheel on a hand drill. Particular care should be taken when removing
the material from the roof skin so not to damage the surface.
Stripped Shell - Passenger Compartment

Stripped Shell – Main Hoop Mounting Area
Main Hoop in Position
Place the main hoop into the car with strengthening plates under the main hoop feet. Push the
main hoop back until the rear feet sit onto the inner wheel arches.

90mm
35mm
Attach the main hoop upper mounting points to the B pillar seat belt locations with a 20mm
spacer between the shell and the cage mounting tab. In some cases the mounting points will
line up with the standard insert in the shell. However due to variations in shell specification it may
be necessary to weld in a top hat in line with the main hoop upper mounting tabs. If a top hat
was used then the spacer width should be reduced to 15mm.

Aluminium Spacer Detail
15mm if top
hat used 10mm
20mm if not.
25mm
If a top hat was required in the B pillar, weld round it to secure in place on the B-pillar.

Assemble the front legs and door bars onto the main hoop inside the car and place the
reinforcing plates under the front feet. Insert the windscreen bar and roof cross. Locate each
joint using a sleeve and pull all the sections tightly together in order to minimize the size of any
joint gaps. This can be done using ratchet straps.
Centralise the sleeves over the joints by marking 72.5mm from the joint centre onto the cage
and sliding the sleeve back to this mark. It is very important that the bolts are orientated such
that the threaded ends are least likely to make contact with the crew. When drilling the holes, it is
recommended that one side is drilled first and a bolt placed though to maintain alignment while
the second hole is drilled from the other side. Mark the centres of all the hole locations so that
they can be drilled later when the cage is removed.

Align the holes in the main hoop feet and the mounting plates. Mark the locations of the holes
onto the shell.
Mark the locations of the holes for the back feet onto the rear inner wheel arches.

Position the front feet so that they are against the sills and aligned with the mounting plates.
Tack weld the front reinforcing plates into position.
Now all the locations for boltholes should be marked onto the shell and the cage can be
disassembled from inside the car.

Drill the holes for the main hoop mounting feet and use a step drill to enlarge them enough to
allow clearance for the M10 nuts.

Weld the M10 nuts to the reverse of the two main hoop mounting plates These should now fit
into position through the enlarged holes such that the now captive M10 nuts can be sunk into
the shells section.
Drill the holes for the rear inner wheel arch mounting feet using a 8.5mm drill bit.
Drill the holes in the shell for the front mounting feet using the tack welded front plates as a
template.

Weld the two front reinforcing plates into position.
Reassemble the cage into the shell and bolt into position.

Place the rear inner arch reinforcing plates 110mm X 110mm X 3mm thick (not legally required
and not part of kit however m-sport preference to install on factory cars) centrally under the rear
feet and using the holes in the shell as a template drill up from inside the wheel arch through the
plates.

Pull the cage down hard against the floor to minimize the size of any gaps around the mounting
plates. This can be done using a ratchet strap.

Weld the main hoop reinforcing plates to the shell.
Weld the corner triangulation section into position.

43mm
112mm
Using the A Pillar mounting plate as a template dress down a flat section onto the A pillar and drill
a hole for the top hat.
Weld the top hat into position.

Bolt the A pillar triangulation plate to the top hat and orientate the plate perpendicular to role
cage front leg.

Weld the A pillar triangulation plates onto the front legs of the cage. The plate must be welded to
the front legs on the inboard side as well as the outboard side. In order to do this with the
windscreen fitted the front legs may have to be removed from the shell.
Finished Cage Installation
Tidy up and remove any sharp edges and ensure all bolts are correctly tightened.
Bolt Torques
M10 = 53Nm (Cage to Shell Bolts)

M8 = 15Nm (Cage Sleeve Bolts)

1.2 Weld In Rollcage
The weld in rollcage is a supply only part. You will receive the rollcage and must be fitted by your
nationally recognised and authorised supplier / person.
You must ensure that the car is stripped out and free of any paint in the areas that will be
welded. Underseal and sound deadening material must also be removed before the rollcage
can be fitted.
Any questions about weld in rollcages please contact M-sport or your National organiser.
1.3 Welded Seat Rail Mounting
Parts Required
1 x Drivers Front Seat Rail

1 x Drivers Rear Seat Rail
1 x Co-drivers Front Seat Rail
1 x Co-drivers Rear Seat Rail
8 x Seat Rail End Mounting Plates
Each seat rail supplied in the kit is a specific length to fit the shell in a set position some profiling
and bending of the seat rail end mounting plates will be required.

Seat Rail Height Guide
The height of seat rails is measured by placing a box section tube across the cockpit between
the front door closures (without door seals in place). Then from measure from the tube down to
the flat mounting surfaces on top of the seat rails.
Drivers side = 65mm

Co-Drivers side = 100mm
Drivers Seat Rail Locations
1
2
60mm 60mm
318mm
1 = Tunnel Side Belt Mount
2 = Sill Side Belt Mount
123mm
Note: The exhaust tunnel seat belt mount should be installed as close to the measurements as
possible however small alterations may be required to these dimensions to avoid clashing with
the handbrake cable bracket. The final dimensions must result in seat belt installation angles that
are within FIA regulations.

Co-Drivers Side Seat Rail and Belt Mount Locations. (LHD)
2
60mm 1
50mm
318mm
1 = Tunnel Side Belt Mount

2 = Sill Side Belt Mount
197mm
Original Box Section Front Mount
On the drivers and co-drivers side remove the original seat-mounting towers from each side of
the exhaust tunnel. This can be done using a spot weld drill bit to remove the welds.

The rectangular holes in the inner sills will coincide with the locations of the seat rails. Therefore
blanking plates must be cut out to fit them 90mm X 40mm X 1.2mm thick.
The blanking plates should be welded into the hole such that they are flush with the inner sill
surface, use magnets to hold plate in place until tacked in.

Shape all the mounting plates and the ends of the seat rails to fit into position. A jig can be made
up to maintain the correct orientation or alternatively the seat side mount brackets can be used.
Tack weld the plates to shell and the seat rails to the plates then check all the measurements
and make any adjustments.

Once a satisfactory fit of all the seat rails has been achieved weld round all 4 sides of each
mounting plate and all the way round both ends of each seat rail.
The original seat mounting towers that were previously removed must now be refitted.

On the co-drivers side the tower must be cut along the centre line of the rear seat rail and a half
circle cut into each half to allow clearance for the new seat rail to pass through.
Reconstruct the two halves of the tower around the seat rail. Puddle weld the tower to the car in
the spot weld locations and weld the two halves to each other and the seat rail.

On the drivers side cut a slot into the original seat tower and refit using puddle welds in the spot
weld locations.
It is very important that the original seat mounting towers are refitted to the shell in order to
comply with “Group N” regulations.

1.4 Seatbelt Mounts
4 x Tunnel Boss
The harness mounting points for the lap strap of the belt must be installed in the correct
locations in the inner sills and the sides of the exhaust tunnel. The distances from the rear seat
rails to the belt mounts are shown on the seat rail location diagrams as a guide. Please note that
seat belt installation angles must comply with the appropriate FIA/MSA regulations.
The seat belt mounts on the sill side should be installed onto the inside of the inner sill.

Drill a Ø.12.5mm clearance hole for seat belt eye in the correct location with 3 holes around the
centre hole through which to puddle weld. Feed a length of welding wire into the sill through the
centre hole drilled at point B and at out point A. Feed the seat belt mount onto the wire at point A
and fold the ends of the wire such that the mount cannot come off. Pull the wire through the
hole at point B until the seat belt mount is positioned on the back of the inner sill. Puddle weld
through the 3 holes onto the seat belt mounting.

1.5 Sump Guard
Parts Required
1 x Sump Guard
1 x Sump Guard Brace Bar
2 x Ø25mm Mounting Tube
6 x Top Hats
6 x M8 X 30mm Cap Head Bolts
6 x M8 Serrated Washer
6 x M8 Flat Washer
2 x M10 X 35mm Hex Head Bolt
2 x M10 X 30mm Hex Head Bolt
4 x M10 Serrated Washer
4 x M10 Flat Washer

Sump Guard Rear Mounting Locations
646mm
The rear sump guard mounting bosses are inserted into the locations shown above. Once these
holes have been enlarged to take the inserts (explained below) the sump guard should be trial
fitted to make sure the hole centres line up correctly.
Rear Mounting Hole Enlarged
The holes must be enlarged to 25mm and be 646mm between centres. First drill through the
centre of the existing outer hole up into in the cockpit floor with a 10mm bit to allow clearance for

the tip of step drill. Use a step drill to enlarge the existing outer hole up to 25mm. Insert a 25mm
hole saw and cut a 25mm hole right through into the cockpit.
Insert the mounting tubes through the 25mm holes into the shell so that 15mm is left protruding
on the outside.
Weld around the joints between the tubes and the shell on the outside.

Sump Guard Tube Protruding into Cockpit
Weld the other end of the mounting tubes to the cockpit floor.
Cut off the excess tube from inside the car flush with the top of the weld.

Chassis Leg Drilling Positions
Bolt the sump guard to its sub frame with the bolts in the centre of the slots and bolt the guard
assembly to rear mounting tubes. Mark the location of the sub frame mounting holes onto the
chassis legs.

Drill the holes for the sump guard sub frame in both chassis legs.
Insert top hats and weld into position.

1.6 Boot / Bonnet Pins
Parts Required
4 x Pins
4 x Pin Clasp
8 x Pin Nuts
8 x Washers
12 x Pop Rivets
2 x Boot Pin Bushes (Optional)

Boot Pins
Using a centre drill, drill in the centre of the tailgate bump stop mound then open the hole to
Ø11.5mm (if no boot pin bushes are used). Spin a nut onto the pin leaving the pin sticking out of
the nut 60mm then screw into the bush and lock the pin in position using the locking nut.
If using boot pin bushes use a Ø22mm hole saw to open the hole to allow the boot pin bush to
slide through.
23mm
25mm

Extend the Ø22mm hole through into the boot at the same angle of the bump stop surface. This
should emerge at the approximate location shown below to allow the boot pin bush to slide through.
Leave 3mm of bush protruding out of the bump stop mound then weld around outside and inside
the boot. Then grind excess off inside, level with the top of the weld.
Tailgate
Spin a nut onto the pin leaving the pin sticking out of the nut 60mm then screw into the bush and
lock the pin in position using the nut. Use a touch of paint on the end of the pin and gently lower the
tailgate onto the pin. The wet paint will leave a small witness mark on the inside of the tailgate, which
is the position to drill a Ø6mm hole through, then use the hole for position and cut a slot 18mm X
8mm to accommodate the pin. Position clasp over slot and mark fixing positions, drill Ø3mm holes in
fixing positions and fasten down using 3 pop rivets.
Bonnet pins
Bonnet pins are mounted on the slam panel, Use the lower rubber bump stop mounting position.
Drill the holes out to Ø12mm. Spin the nut up the pin to achieve desired length add washer then
insert into 12mm hole, lock in position with another washer and nut.

Bonnet
Using a Ø30mm hole saw cut a hole in the inner skin of the bonnet at the lower bump stop seat
as shown below, in doing this the pilot drill of the hole saw should penetrate the outer skin of the
bonnet. Cut a slot to suit the top of the bonnet pin 18mm X 8mm.
Bonnet Pin Clasp
Position clasp over slot and mark fixing positions, drill Ø3mm holes in fixing positions through
bonnet external skin and fasten down using 3 pop rivets.

1.7 Blanking Plates
There are a number of holes in the floorpan that need to filled using blanking plates.
Welded Blanking Plates
100mm
43mm
Cut some 1mm thick plate to size and hold in position using magnets while they are welded
round.
Ground Welds
Grind down the welds so that they are smooth and flush with surface.

Chapter 2 – Shell Build
2.1 Bodyshell Sealing
Overview
There are numerous holes in the bodyshell that should be sealed to prevent the ingress of dirt
and water into the cockpit and chassis box sections. This can be done using silver tape as
shown in the following pictures detailing the locations of most of the holes to be sealed. Once
shell build is finished further locations to be sealed may become apparent.
Silver taped holes in the bulkhead and front chassis legs

Sealed Holes Behind the Rear Bumper
Sealed Holes in the Rear Cross Member

2.2 Standard Wiring Loom
Overview
The standard Fiesta ST fuse box and wiring loom remain in their entirety and are fitted in the
original locations. Secure the wiring loom to the shell using cable ties and saddles riveted to the
shell.
Fuse Box and Wiring Mounted on Bulkhead
Example of Cable Tie Saddles for Wiring Loom on the Inner Sill
The wiring loom on the left hand inner sill should not be cable tied to the saddles until the fuel
system is complete, as the internal braided fuel line will share its cable tie saddles.

Standard Wiring Loom Rear Left Hand Side
Standard Wiring Loom Rear Right Hand Side

2.3 Electronic Fire Extinguisher System
Electrical Fire Extinguisher System Kit
1 x 4L AFFF Fire Extinguisher

1 x Plumbing Kit
1 x Length Pipe Protection
2 x Mounting Brackets
2 x Fixing Straps
2 x M5 x 20mm Dome Head Bolts
2 x M5 Nyloc Nuts
4 x Washers
8 x Spray Nozzles
4 x T-piece/ Nozzle Connector
1 x T-piece Connector
2 x 90 Degree Nozzle Connector
1 x In-car Switch
1 x External Switch
1 x External Switch Wire
1 x Switch Loom

Overview
The fire extinguisher bottle will be fixed through the floorpan into the space behind the drivers
seat. The forward most bolts that hold the bottle bracket in place double up as the rear driver’s
side mounting bolts of the optional Kevlar underfloor protection. If underfloor protection is to be
fitted, the mounting holes should be drilled during the extinguisher fitting process. Ensure all
extinguisher piping is secured and free from any defects on completion.
If the car is a right hand drive version the extinguisher installation will be a mirror image about the
centre line of the exhaust tunnel.

Fire Extinguisher System Diagram
Extinguisher Bottle Location

LHD Model (RHD Symmetrically Opposite)
215mm
160mm
145mm

Extinguisher Pipe Cable Tie Saddle Locations
LHD Model (RHD Symmetrically Opposite)
Pipe Routing Of RHD With Bottle In Position

View of Extinguisher Routing on the Inside of the Bulkhead
Left Hand Cockpit Nozzle Left Hand Engine Bay Nozzle
LHD Model Shown, RHD Fuse Box on LH Side of Cockpit

Right Hand Engine Bay & Cockpit Nozzles and Pipe passing through the bulkhead for slam panel
nozzle.

Routing to Engine Bay Slam Panel Nozzle
The union shown in the picture is not included in the fire extinguisher fitting kit. Placing an extra
joint in this location enables the front cross member to be removed more easily. If this joint is not
installed simply allow for the extra pipe to reach the slam panel nozzle.

Engine Bay Slam Panel Nozzle
The slam panel nozzle is mounted in front of the inlet manifold using a 90° connector. The pipe is
fixed to tie wrap saddles on the slam panel and connected to the pipe on the right hand inner
wheel arch shown on the previous page.

2.4 Composite Under Floor Protection
Composite Under Floor Protection Kit
2 x Composite Under Floor Protection Trays

12 x M6 X 20mm Button Head Bolts
12 x M6 Nyloc Nuts
12 x M6 Repair Washer
12 x M6 Flat Washers
LH Under Floor Protection Tray
RH Under Floor Protection Tray

Fixings
Locate the underfloor protection into place and mark up on both sides the cut outs shown to
allow clearance for the body shell brace brackets.

75mm
The driver’s side underfloor protection is held in place at the rear by the two forward most
extinguisher bracket bolts and one other bolt in line with these 75mm from the inner sill.
250mm
95mm 85mm
155mm

The driver’s side underfloor protection is held in place at the front by 3 bolts located
approximately in the locations shown above. These locations may need to be adjusted slightly
according to individual cars.
Now locate the driver’s side under floor protection and use the holes in the floor pan as a
template to drill through the protection. The protection can then be bolted up into position using
the large washers against the Kevlar and the small washers against the floor inside the car. The
mounting locations for the co-driver’s side should be mirrored across and the same installation
method used. Once both protectors are installed and will not need to be removed they should
be sealed to the shell using a silicon sealer.

2.5 Required Roll Cage Padding
Where occupants’ bodies or crash helmets could come into contact with the rollcage, non-
flammable padding must be provided for protection.
The padding must comply with FIA standard 8857-2001, type A (strongly recommended), or
with FIA standard 8857-2001 type B or SFI specification 45.1. (minima) (see technical list No. 23
“roll Cage Padding Homologated by the FIA”).

Roll cage padding installed in car
Make sure that all protection is secure on completion of fitting.

2.6 Recommended Rollcage Padding
Thin padding on the rear crosses prevents damaging helmets when they are stored in the
helmet net.
Use a strip of 2mm thick self adhesive foam cut to the right width to fit the circumference of the
rollcage tube x required length, wrap around the rollcage. Then use shrink wrap 20mm longer
than the required length and 140mm wide. Wrap this around the foam with 10mm overlapping at
both ends and 15mm overlap along the length. Superglue along the length of the overlapping
seam. Allow this to dry then heat the shrink wrap until it has shrunk tight around the foam and
rollcage.

The padding on the door bars is fitted using the same method as above except using thicker
role cage padding foam glued to the cage under the heat shrink.

2.7 Recommended Exhaust Heat Shielding
It is recommended that the inside of the exhaust tunnel be protected using heat shield matting
cut to size and silver taped around the edges and over joins.
Exhaust Heat Shield
The gear change cables have also been protected using a heatproof sleeve.

2.8 Spare Wheel Bar
Parts Required
1 x Spare Wheel Bar

2 x M8 X10 Cap Head Bolt
The spare wheel bar allows the spare wheel to sit into the original spare wheel well that was
designed to house the smaller space saver spare. The ratchet strap is the correct length to hold
the spare wheel securely in place.
460mm

The spare wheel bar is fixed 460mm from the rear of the spare wheel well and 70mm from the
top (see next page).
70mm
The bar is bolted into position from the outside of the spare wheel well using the M8 cap head
bolts provided.

2.9 Spare Wheel Ratchet Strap
Parts Required
1 x Ratchet Strap
1 x Webbing Strap
2 x M6 X 16 Button Head Allen Bolts
2 x M6 Ø25mm Repair Washer
2 x M6 Ø17mm Penny Washer
2 x M6 Nyloc Nuts
Drill a Ø6mm hole at the front and rear, middle of the spare wheel well and fasten in place the
strap with the nuts on the outside of the car.

Chapter 3 – Steering, Suspension and Mounts
3.1 Rear Beam Bushes
Bush Kit
2 x Rear Beam Bush
Overview
The Fiesta Group N ST rear beam assembly is standard Fiesta ST except for up-rated bushes to
replace the original items.
Remove the existing standard beam bushes. Insert the new up-rated bushes (flange to inside,
lug aligns with mark) this can be done using a press or carefully pushing into place using a vice
along with suitable spacers.

3.2 Steering Rack Thread Locking
Overview
Due to the increased vibrations experienced by rally car components it is necessary to thread-
lock some parts of the steering rack assembly. These are the inner tie rod to rack threads, and
the rack end stop into the rack body.
Pull back the boots from both ends of the steering rack and remove the steering arms from both
ends of the steering rack.

Remove the end stop from the steering rack body using an M-Sport 4 pin socket tool
(BN19020004A).
Clean up and decrease the end stop treads before thread-locking using Loctite 648 and
retightening to 100 Nm.
Clean and degrease the threads on the inner tie rod ends and rack ends before thread-locking
using Loctite 243 and refitting.

3.3 Reiger Adjustable Dampers
Reiger Adjustable Damper Kit
Front
2 x Adjustable Front Dampers

2 x Top Mount Cup
2 x Adjustable Spring Platforms

Front Built Up Dampers
When building up the front dampers, the original Fiesta top mount and damper gator are used.
Note: When not in use the dampers should be stored upright as they are in the car with the
breathers at the top.

Rear
1 x LH Rear Damper
1 x RH Rear Damper
The rear dampers replace the standard Ford dampers.
The dampers must be installed with the extended side of the bottom mounting bush towards
the outside of the car.

3.4 Springs
Front Spring Kit
2 x Front Gravel Spring or 2 x Front Tarmac Spring
The front springs are replacements for the Ford standard springs.
Gravel Front Springs

Tarmac Front Springs
Rear Spring Kit
2 x Rear Gravel Spring or 2 x Rear Tarmac Spring
The rear springs are replacements for the Ford standard springs.
Rear Tarmac Spring

3.5 Up-rated Wishbones
Up-rated Wishbone Kit
1 x RH Wishbone
1 x LH Wishbone
The up-rated wishbones are a direct replacement for the Ford standard wishbones.

Chapter 4 – Braking System
4.1 ABS Unit
Overview
The Group N Fiesta ST does not use the antilock braking system originally fitted to the ST road
car. However the ABS module located in the engine bay must remain in place. This is due to the
nature of the CAN Bus communication used by the Fiesta’s electrical systems.
ABS Unit and Associated Wiring
As the Group N brake pipes are not connected to the ABS actuator the holes in the actuator can
be sealed using silver tape or suitable blanks to prevent damage to the unit. In order to totally
disable the system the ABS fuse F6 (30A) should be removed from inside the standard fuse box.

4.2 Brake Bias Valve
Brake Bias Valve Kit
1 x Brake Bias Valve

1 x Mounting Bracket
1 x Adjuster Knob
1 x Gearcut Spring
3 x M6 X 3mm Spacer Washer
3 x M6 Nyloc Nut
3 x M6 Flat Washer
1 x M5 X 80mm Set Screw
1 x M5 Nyloc Nut
1 x M5 Plain Nut
2 x M5 Flat Washer
1 x M5 Repair Washer
Ø10mm
The bias valve must be modified for use in the Fiesta Group N. The swing arm must be cut to
80mm long with a ∅5mm hole drilled at position shown. Use an M5 bolt to check that the hole
you have drilled lines up with the hole in the mounting bracket. The hole in the swing bracket will
then need opening up to Ø10mm for clearance and to allow the bracket to swing.

Brake Bias Adjuster Assembly
Rear Right
Rear
Front Right
Front
The front mounting stud must be cut level with the top of the nut so that it does not foul the front
brake pipes. When installing brake lines to the bias valve ensure the copper washers are
centralised and use a hydraulic thread sealer.

4.3 Brake Lines
Braided Brake Line Kit (LHD)
1) 1 x Master Cylinder – LH T-Piece

2) 1 x Master Cylinder – RH T-Piece
3) 1 x LH T-Piece – LH Turret
4) 1 x LH T-Piece – Bulk Head
5) 1 x RH Tee – RH Turret
6) 2 x Bulk Head – Bias Valve
7) 1 x Bias Valve – LH Rear Floor
8) 1 x Bias Valve – RH Rear Floor
9) 2 x Front Inner Wing - Calliper
10) 2 x Rear Floor – Rear Calliper

1
2
3
4
7
10

Overview
The Fiesta Group N brake line kit includes all the braided lines cut to the correct lengths with
unions fitted, allowing the brake lines to be routed along the bulkhead and through the cockpit
bypassing the ABS Actuator. The kit maintains the original cross split system necessary to
comply with Group N regulations. Note: RHD and LHD kits are not the same brake pipe no. 2
from the brake master cylinder to the RH T-Piece is different.
Fiesta ST Group N Brake System Schematic LHD
9 9
FL FR
Calliper
Callip
3 4 5
Master
Cylinder 2
6 6
Brake Bias
Valve
7 8
FR 10 RR
10
Calliper Calliper

Engine Bay Brake Lines & Through Bulkhead Union Location
175mm
Right Hand Chassis Leg Left Hand Chassis Leg
255mm
The RH inner wing union position is The LH inner wing union position is
235mm from the bulkhead and 255mm from the bulkhead and
55mm up from the chassis leg. 35mm up from the chassis leg.

Right Hand Inner Arch Union Left Hand Inner Arch Union
Internal Brake Line & Cable Tie Saddle Positions on Tunnel

Brake Lines from Bias Adjuster to Rear Through Bulkhead Unions
Rear Brake Lines Passing Through the Floor pan

Rear Brake Line Routing
Cable Tie Saddles
The rear brake lines run along the chassis legs held in place by cable ties before dropping down
onto the each side of the rear beam.

Rear Brake Lines Running Along Rear Beam
The rear brake lines can be secured to the handbrake cables using cable ties. (For handbrake
cable routing see section 4.4 Handbrake Cables).
Make sure that all pipes are secured in place and connections are tight on completion of fitting.

4.4 Handbrake Cables
Revised Handbrake Cable Routing
Re-route the handbrake cables such that after they cross they are held up against the body by
cable ties through saddles riveted to the shell. The cables can then be attached to the standard
fixing points on the rear beam.

4.5 Competition Brake Pads
Competition Brake Pad Kit
Front Brake Pads Gravel / Tarmac / Tarmac +
The front M-Sport competition brake pads standard (gravel / tarmac / Tarmac +) and direct
replacements for Ford standard brake pads.

Rear Brake Pads
The rear M-Sport competition brake pads are a direct replacement for the Ford standard brake
pads.

Chapter 5 - Fuel System
5.1 Fuel Kit
Braided Fuel Pipe Kit
1 x Braided Fuel Pipe

1 x Fuel Pipe Connection
2 x Ø30mm Fuel Pipe Tacho Grommet
Roll Over Valve Kit
1 x Roll Over Valve

1 x 2.8m of 8mm Black Festo Pipe
2 x 8mm Striaght Festo Push-in Connectors
2 x 6mm to 8mm Festo Push-in Connectors
1 x 8mm 90 Degree Festo Push-in Connector
1 x 8mm T-piece Festo Push-in Connector
3 x White Pipe Saddles
2 x Bulkhead Grommets
3 x 4mm X 10mm Standard Rivet
3 x M4 Flat Washer

You will require:
2 x Black 385mm x 7.5mm Cable Ties (Recommended)

1 x Black 195mm x 4.7mm Cable Tie (Recommended)
1 x 4.5m Silver Tape

Overview
The original fuel system must be modified for use in the Fiesta ST Group N. These modifications
include protecting the underside of the fuel tank with a composite guard, rerouting a braided
aero fuel line through the cockpit, relocating the fuel filter, and installing a rollover valve into the
fuel tank breather pipe.
Fiesta ST Group N Fuel System Schematic

5.2 Fuel Tank Preparation
Fuel Tank Connectors & Pipes
1. The original Ford fuel hose from the fuel pump must be cut leaving two short lengths
each with a standard Ford fuel pump connector on one end. Using the T-piece connect
these two lengths to each other and a 350mm length of plastic fuel hose with a straight
connector on the other end. Attach the original tank to filter hose onto the straight
connector.
2. Remove the fuel tank breather from the clamp on the tank and attach a long length of
plastic fuel pipe in its place using a straight connector.
3. Lockwire the fuel pump housing to the fuel tank.

5.3 Fuel Tank Guard Fitting
Fuel Tank Guard Kit
1 x Composite Fuel tank Guard
Fuel Tank & Guard Assembly
Position the steel fuel tank straps into the recesses in the composite fuel tank guard followed by
the plastic fuel tank. Line up the mounting holes in the straps with those in the guard. Seal the
join between the tank and guard with silver tape that will also hold the straps into position while
the tank assembly is fitted to the car.

5.4 Fuel Filter Installation
Fuel Filter Mounting Location
Fuel Filter
Drill two holes in order to rivet the fuel filter brackets onto the back of the spare wheel well.
Position the brackets and rivet such through from the inside using washers on the other side of
the plastic brackets.
Fuel Filter Modification
The outlet end is cut back just behind the collar, to allow the connector to join.

Fuel Filter in Position
Attach the fuel filter to the brackets using cable ties, and connect up the fuel line.

5.5 Braided Fuel Line Installation
Position the outlet of the 90° connector (from the fuel filter) so it points upward towards the boot
floor. Mark directly above the centre of the outlet and drill through. Enlarge the hole for the
sealing grommet using a 30mm Qmax or hole cutter.
Push the braided hose through the grommet.

Firmly insert the braided hose fitting into the 90° connector, ensuring a good seal. Fit the
grommet into the hole.
Route the braided hose across to the inner wheel arch edge and secure in place using a zip tie
and saddle.

The braided fuel hose can now follow the wiring loom routing along the left-hand sill, and share
the same cable tie saddles.
The fuel line will pass through an existing hole in the bulkhead into the engine bay. The original
hole needs to be enlarged for a grommet using a 30mm Qmax or hole cutter.

Fit the braided hose through the grommet in the bulkhead.
The braided fuel line connects to the fuel rail, with the compression fitting.
Please make sure that the pipes are secure and connections are tight on the completion of the
installation.

5.6 Fuel Tank Fitting
Once the fuel tank hoses have been modified and the guard fitted, the whole assembly can be
fitted into the car. The brake lines and handbrake cables must be completed before the fuel tank
is fitted.
Fuel Tank and Filler Neck Pipes Installed
Fit the fuel filler neck to the shell and install the tank using the original bolts into the shell. Attach
the fuel filler neck to the appropriate hoses on the tank.
Route the new fuel tank breather hose along the filler-neck pipes towards the rear bumper, and
connect the fuel hose from the tank onto the fuel filter.

5.7 Rollover Valve Installation
Rollover Valve
Remove the moulded bracket from the side of the rollover valve and shorten the connections
just enough to remove the lips.
Rollover Valve in Position
The rollover valve is installed on the back of the rear left inner wheel arch.
Drill a small hole in the floor and enlarge to 19mm using a Qmax or hole saw. Insert a grommet
into the hole and pass the pipe from the fuel tank breather through the grommet. Cut the pipe to
length and connect to the bottom of the rollover valve using a reducer connector. Rivet the
bracket for the rollover valve directly above the hole for the pipe and cable tie into position.

Connect a length of pipe, as a breather, onto the top of the rollover valve using a reducer
connector and feed it down through into the body to the rear. Secure the pipe using a cable tie
and saddle.
Breather Pipe
Drill a hole up into the body and enlarge with a Qmax or hole saw to 19mm. Insert a grommet
and pass the tube down through into the rear of the wheel well. Bend the tube through 90°
towards the rear bumper.

5.8 Fuel Tank Filler Protection
Fuel Tank Filler Protection Kit
1 x Composite Fuel Tank Filler Protector
You will require:
1 x Tube Of Sikaflex or Silicone Sealer (Recommended)

10 x 3mm X 8mm Rivets (Recommended)
10 x M3 Flat Washer(Recommended)
Silver Tape (Recommended)

Ø3mm Hole Positions
80mm
20mm
90mm
135mm 80mm
70mm
70mm
130mm
115mm

Position the fuel tank filler protection so that it sits comfortably around the top of the damper top
mount, and against the top and rear of the arch.

Mark hole positions evenly around the seating flanges, drill Ø3.1mm holes mark the inner arch
using the drilled composite protector as a template. Drill holes Ø3.1mm. Using the Sikaflex stick
the fuel filler protector to the car in position and rivet to the car.
Seal around the top filler point with silver tape as shown.

Chapter 6 Group N Electrical
6.1 Auxiliary Wiring Loom
Overview
The auxiliary wiring loom is a piggyback loom that supplies signals and power to the additional
electrical equipment used in the Fiesta ST Group N. The additional loom includes the master
switch. The loom is pre-labelled for ease of connection. Do not power up the loom until the full
electrical system is complete and it has been thoroughly checked that it is safe to do so.
Particular care should be taken to make sure that when the power is switched on the
emergency switch is not activated as this will result in discharge of the fire extinguisher system.
Splicing into Main Loom
To Cockpit
Loom
Yellow
& Red &
Orange Brown
The standard car loom must be connected to the Group N Auxiliary Loom via the Splice Loom.
The Splice Loom has two branches each with two wires ready to splice into the standard car
loom. And a third branch that connects directly into the cockpit section of the auxiliary loom.
Splicing Location Details
Description Ford Connector Standard Loom Wire Gp. N Splice Loom

No. Colour Wire Colour
Wheel Speed 810 (Blue) White/Green (Pin10) Yellow
Fuel Level 810 (Blue) White (Pin 5) Orange
Main Beam 812 (Green) Green/Yellow (Pin 12) Red
Ignition Acc. 813 (Grey) Yellow/Green (Pin 4) Brown
Fuel Pump 813 (Grey) Green/Yellow (Pin 2) Green

Fuel Pump Slice
Connector
813 Pin 2
Locate the green and yellow wire from Pin 2 of Connector 813.
This wire needs to be cut and joined to the short flying leads on the supplied connector. Once
the joints have been made they should be insulated with the supplied heat shrink. The connector
labelled “Fuel Pump” on the cockpit part of the auxiliary loom should be plugged in here.

Blue Connector
Green Connector

Grey Connector

Connector Locations

Connectors shown are in a LHD car
Connector 810 is located on the inner sill Connectors 812 & 813 are located on the
side of the driver’s footwell. inner sill side of the co-drivers footwell.

Cockpit Loom Part 1
To Cockpit Loom Part 2

Intercom, map, fire ext.
and radio
1 – Fuse Box 2
2 – Exhaust Tunnel GND
3 – Co – Driver Footrest Trip
4 – Co – Driver Footrest Horn
5 – Tripmeter Connection
6 – Fuel Pump
To Dash
Panel
To Splice
Loom
To Engine Bay Loom

Fuse Box (1)
Driving Spot Horn Engine

Lamps Lights Kill
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12
1 = Spare
2 = Spare
3 = LH Drive Lamp = 20A
4 = RH Drive Lamp = 20A
5 = LH Spot Light = 20A
6 = RH Spot Light = 20A
7 = Horn = 15A
8 = Master Switch = 3A
9 = Tripmeter = 3A
10 = Radio = 7.5A
11 = Intercom = 3A
12 = Map Light = 3A
Use the sticker provided in the kit to label the fuse / relay box for later reference.

The auxiliary fuse box is mounted on a bracket in the co-drivers foot well behind the composite
footrest. In the case of a right hand drive car the fuse box will be installed rotated 180° from the
picture above such that the fuses are at the top, the relays at the bottom and the cable exits
from the top right.
Tunnel GND (2)
The tunnel GND is bolted to the exhaust tunnel using a serrated washer to ensure a good
connection.

Co–Driver Footrest Trip (3)
Connect the wires to the terminals on the rear of the co–driver footrest trip reset switch.
Co–Driver Footrest Horn (4)
The wires should be connected to the terminals on the rear of the co–driver footrest horn switch.
Tripmeter Connection (5)
The tripmeter connection is fed up the back of the dash to the tripmeter. The lead for the rally
computer comes with the correct connector to plug straight into a Coralba tripmeter.
Fuel Pump (6)
Inertia Switch Connector Location
The standard inertia switch, located on the co-drivers side under the glove box and below the A-
pillar, must be disconnected.

Replace the inertia switch with the supplied bypass connector.

Carbon Dash Panel Pre Oct 05
Carbon Dash Panel Kit
1 x Carbon Dash Panel (pre wired)

4 x Dash Panel Retaining Clip
The panel locates directly into dash from the back and is held in place using 4 clips. Press the clip
over both lips at points circled. Make sure that the combined width measurement of both lips is
2.5mm – 3.2mm.

Carbon Dash Panel Post Oct 05
55mm
55mm
64mm
164mm
Position the 4 edge clips onto the dash panel using the dimensions shown. Mark the hole
centres through the edge clips. Remove the edge clips and drill 4mm holes in the marked
positions. Once drilled refit the edge clips.
In order to fit the panel a 15mm wide by 7mm deep cut out is required in the centre of the
bottom edge. Once this is cut the panel can be installed and used as a template to mark out the
holes required in the Ford dash flange. Before final installation of the dash panel stick the foam-
sealing strip to the edge of the panel.

Cockpit Loom Part 2
1 2
1 – Intercom
2 – Map Light
3 – Fire Extinguisher Bottle
4 – Radio
3 4
Intercom Power (1)
Due to the various different types of intercom/helmet available a loose connector is supplied to
crimp onto the intercom power lead. The intercom power supply in the loom is designed to be
the correct length for intercoms mounted onto the side of the drivers seat.
Map Light (2)
The map light loom comes ready to connect to the optional map light that can be fitted on the
main hoop above the co-driver.

Fire Extinguisher (3)
Fire Extinguisher Connector
The fire extinguisher comes wired ready to be connected directly into the loom. Care must be
taken to ensure that the driver’s seat belt cannot interfere with the fire extinguisher wiring to
avoid accidental discharge (connect last).
Radio (4)
Due to the variety of radios available the lead comes fitted with the most common connection.
Route the lead to your radio and ensure that the positive and negative are the correct way
around for your specific radio before connecting.

Engine Bay Loom
Aux. Loom Grommet
Aux. Loom Route

along Bulkhead
The engine bay loom passes through a grommet in the bulkhead and towards the left hand side
using the same cable ties saddles as the brakes lines.

4
2
3
1 – 2 Way Super Seal To Circuit

Breaker 1
2 – Fly Lead to Circuit Breaker
3 – Circuit Breaker 7
4 – Emergency / Master Switch
5 – Battery VE+
6 – Inner Wing GND
7 – Horn
8 – Lamp Pod

Circuit Breaker (1,2 & 3)
Circuit Breaker Location
Circuit
The main circuit breaker is mounted to the front left suspension turret using anti vibration
mounts. This is a battery GND isolation system.
Included in the Group N Auxiliary Loom kit are 3 heavy-duty power cables to redirect the battery
ground through the circuit breaker. These are a replacement for the standard Ford part.
Circuit Breaker Connections Light-duty Connections
1 2 3
Connector 1 plugs straight into the circuit breaker box. The flying lead connects to the central M6
terminal (2) under the heavy-duty negative battery lead (see next page).

Circuit Breaker Heavy-duty Connections
Battery Negative
Terminal
Chassis GND
The heavy-duty cable from the battery negative terminal connects to the to the central M6
terminal (2) of the circuit breaker on top of the previously shown flying lead. Terminal 3 on the
circuit breaker should be earthed to the chassis via the longest of the 3 heavy-duty negative
cables supplied. The third heavy-duty cable supplied is used to earth the gearbox casing to the
chassis.
There is also a small gauge wire attached to the battery negative terminal (black & blue) this
should be moved to a chassis earth point.

Emergency / Master Switch (4)
When active the switch shows a yellow warning band.
Activated Safe
Emergency Switch Location
The emergency switch mounts onto the windscreen wiper mounting plate. Ensure that its
position allows access with the bonnet closed. The lead for the switch is labelled “Fire”. And
should be installed ensuring that it is not interfered with by the windscreen wiper mechanism.
This must be installed in the safe position to allow power-up of the car and to prevent accidental
discharge of the extinguisher system.

Battery VE+ (5)
Battery Positive Distribution Block
Remove the positive distribution block lid and there should be 3 spare connector locations.
Battery Positive Distribution Block with Aux Loom Connected
Connect the Aux. Loom Battery Positive lead into one of the spare locations using the 80A fuse
provided in the kit. The fuse should be secured in place using M5 x 10 button head bolts from the
underside with washers and nuts on the top.

Inner Wing GND (6)
The inner wing GND is simply drilled and bolted to the inner wing making sure a serrated washer
is used to ensure a good connection.
Horn (7)
The horn cables are fed through the inner wing and connected to the horn pump.
Lamp Pod (8)
The lamp pod connector should be attached to the left hand inner wing with the connections
pointing towards the rear using a cable tie and saddle. This allows the lamp pod loom when
installed to run along the top of the left hand wing and onto the bonnet

6.2 Warning Light Removal (04-Oct 05 Cars)
Overview
Due to the disabling of a number of the original Fiesta ST electrical systems, the associated
warning lights would become permanently illuminated. It is therefore recommended that these
LED’s are removed from the circuit board.
Location of Bolts to Open Clock Casing
The needles (although very tight) simply pull off, however before doing so use a piece of
masking tape on the clock face and mark the resting locations to ensure correct refitting.

Locations of LED’s to be Removed
The best method of removal is to use 2 small soldering irons one on each contact and wipe the
LED off its contacts.
Once the LED’s have been removed the unit can be reassembled. When installing the needles,
reposition using the mark on the tape and carefully push onto the tapered shaft until secure.
6.3 Electrical Notes
Cooling Fan Wiring - The two cooling fan connecters are the same shape and can therefore be
connected the wrong way round, resulting in operation of only the low speed fan level. They are
however colour coded in grey and black to show the correct installation.
6.4 2006 Spec Cars Additional Instructions
We are currently experiencing difficulties locating a speed signal from 2006 spec cars due to
changes in the Ford wiring loom. We are currently looking into this problem and a technical
bulletin will be released as soon as a solution can be found.

Chapter 7 – Engine
7.1 Uprated Engine Mount RH
Right Hand Engine Mount Kit
1 x RH Uprated Engine Mount

2 x M8 Flat Washers
The original engine mount bracket is retained, but must be modified. A Ø8.2mm hole must be
drilled on either side to allow an M8 X 20mm caphead bolt through. This holds the up-rated
bush in position.

25mm

Right Hand Engine Mount in Position with Torque Settings
115Nm
48Nm

7.2 Uprated Engine Mount LH
LH Engine Mount Kit
1 x Up-rated LH Engine Mount

1 x Engine Mount Stud
1 x 5/8 UNF Nyloc Nut
1 x Engine Mount Upper Plate
1 x LH Engine Mount Washer
1 x M16 Flat Washer
1 x LH Engine Mount Bush
2 x M10 X 25mm Caphead Bolt
2 x M10 Flat Washer
2 x M10 Nyloc Nut
Exploded View Of LH Engine Mount Assembly
Fit the stud into the engine/transmission mounting bracket using loctite 648.
Fit the bracket with stud to the transmission casing prior to installation ensuring the 3 mounting
bolts are tightened to 80Nm.
Install the engine and transmission using appropriate lifting equipment. Fit the top-plate along
with the rubber bushing and large aluminium safety washer followed by the standard washer
and nyloc nut tightened to 100Nm.

7.3 Stainless Steel Exhaust System
1 x Stainless Steel Middle Section

1 x Stainless Steel Back Box
4 x Up-rated Exhaust Mounting Rubber
2 x Exhaust Joint Spring
1 x Exhaust Clamp
The main section is connected to the end of the catalyst using the exhaust joint spring.
The back box is then connected to the end of the main pipe using the exhaust clamp to
fasten them together.

7.4 Stainless Steel Competition Catalyst
1 x Stainless Steel Competition Catalyst
The catalyst is connected directly to the bottom of the down pipe.

7.5 Air Filter
The foam air filter is an up-rated direct replacement.

7.6 Modified Engine ECU
The ECU is programmed with a new calibration you will need to supply the parts shown below or
get a technical representative to come and upload the new calibration for you.
Instrument Cluster
Steering Column
Keys
Security Module Engine PCM

(Under (Under Bonnet)
Dashboard)

Chapter 8 Interior
8.1 Seat Side Mount Rail Positions
Parts Required
4 x Seat Rails
8 x M8 Flat Washers
8 x M8 Schnorr Washers (Recommended)
12 x M8 X 5mm Alloy Spacer Washer
Install the Drivers and Co-Drivers side mount rails along with the seats to find the best positions
for the intended crew. Make a note of these positions before removing the side mounts and
seats from the car.

8.2 Harness Mounting Bar & Lap Strap/Crotch Strap Installation
Parts Required
2 x Seat Rail Bar

4 x M8 X 16mm CSK Bolts
4 x Eye Bolts
2 x Crotch Strap Adjustment Plate
Overview
The seatbelt bar must be fitted between the seat rails in order to guide the crotch strap through
the correct angle to its anchor points on the rear welded in seat mount. A seatbelt bar must be
fitted to both driver and co-driver seat rails.

Countersunk Hole in Seat Rail
The seatbelt bar is held in place by an M8 countersunk bolt through each seat rail in the location
shown in the diagram.
Seatbelt Bar Mounting Location (LH Rail)
Front Rear
Ø8.0
145.0 28.0
The hole must be drilled and countersunk on the outside of the seat rails

Co-Drivers Side Seatbelt Bar & Seat Rail Assembly
Seatbelts Around Seatbelt Bar
When fitting the harness, only the two waistband eye-bolts are used. The crotch straps are fixed
to the rear seat rail using the crotch strap adjustment plates, and then fed under the seat belt
bar before entering the bottom of the seat.

8.3 Seats and Harness Shoulder Straps
Parts Required
2 x Recaro Seats
12 x M8 X 5mm Alloy Spacer Washer
8 x M8 X Cap Head Bolts
8 x M8 Washers
Sabelt 75mm 6 Point Harness shoulder straps
The seats should be installed with the 5mm spacers between the seat and the side mount rail at
every fixing point. However 12 spacers are provided so that 2 spacers can be used on one side
or the other of each seat to help centralise if required. The M8 washers provided should also be
used between the head of the bolt and aluminium side mount rail.

The shoulder straps are fixed to the seat belt bar in the rear cross of the rollcage then through
the specific holes in the seat. The major adjust in the length of the shoulder straps should be
done at the seat belt bar end of the belts.

8.4 Composite Co-driver Foot Rest
The co-drivers footrest is mounted on two aluminium rails that are secured to the floor of the car.
This allows easy removal of the tray for servicing and cleaning.
Parts Required
Composite Co-driver Foot Rest Kit
1 x Carbon Foot Rest

2 x Aluminium Channel 350mm Long
Fittings To Fasten Aluminium Channel To Floor:
8 x M5 X 16 Button Head Bolts

8 x M5 Nyloc Nuts
Fittings To Fasten Footrest To Aluminium Channel:
4 x M6 X 16 Button Head Bolts

4 x M6 Anchor Nuts
4 x M6 Penny Washers
8 x 2.4mm X 6mm CSK Aluminium Rivets

Drill four 6.2mm mounting holes in the co-drivers footrest as shown above. Now use the holes
drilled in the footrest as a template to drill 6.2mm holes through the aluminium rails.
Now the anchor nuts can be lined up and used as a template to drill the 2.5mm holes for the
rivets. Once these holes have been drilled the anchor nuts can be riveted to the back of
aluminium rails.
The composite footrest can now be attached to the aluminium rails and this assembly can be
placed into the car and used to mark up the correct location for the rails.

Approximate location of the aluminium mounting rails (RHD)
85mm
160mm
140mm
Original Box Section Mount
(LHD is symmetrically opposite)
The footrest mounts directly to the aluminium channels using the bolts, Schnorr washers and
penny washers.

8.5 Carbon Composite Driver Foot Tray Installation
Parts Required
1 x Drivers Foot Tray

5x M5 Dome Head Bolts
5 x M5 Anchor Nuts
The drivers foot tray should be positioned in the footwell, then drill through the flanges Ø5mm at
points shown. Mark the locations of these mounting points onto the car and install M5 anchor
nuts. Now the tray can be fastened in place using M5 button head bolts.

8.6 Steering Wheel and Hub
Parts Required
1 x Steering Wheel
1 x Mounting Hub
6 x M5 X 10 CSK Bolts

Remove the Ford steering wheel and replace with the steering wheel hub, which fits directly
onto the steering column.
The steering wheel is then fixed to the hub with the M5 X 10 CSK bolts.

8.7 Hand Held Fire Extinguisher
Parts Required
Hand Held Fire Extinguisher Kit
1 x 2.4 Litre AFFF Hand Held Fire Extinguisher

1 x Extinguisher Bracket
1 x Extinguisher Fixing Strap
Fittings
2 x M6 X14mm CSK Bolts

2 x M6 Anchor Nuts
4 x 3mm X 8mm CSK Rivets

45mm
215mm 135mm
The hand held fire extinguisher is located in front of the co-drivers seat, on the lateral support
beam.
To fit the hand held fire extinguisher bracket first you need to measure and mark 195mm from
the exhaust tunnel, then mark the centre line of the beam 45mm from the edge. Centre punch
at position, then mark the second fixing 215mm from centre, as shown. Line up the centre of an
anchor nut over the punch marks, and mark rivet-fixing points. Drill centre punch marks at
Ø6.5mm and rivet fixing points Ø3.1mm.
Fix the anchor nut inside the beam using the rivets.
Fix the bracket into position using the M6 bolts, making sure that you install the fixing strap with
the bracket bolt.

Handheld Fire Extinguisher in a RHD car
In a RHD car the fire extinguisher installation is mirrored from the LHD car.

8.8 Lightweight Wheel Brace
Parts Required
1 x Wheel Brace
2 x Black Push-in Clips
2 x 3mm X 8mm Rivets (Recommended)

Lightweight Wheel brace in Position
70m
m
310mm
170mm to rear
panel
Drill through the shell at the positions marked with a Ø3.1mm drill, and rivet the clips to the shell.

8.9 Spare Wheel Mounting Tray
Spare Wheel Mounting (Carbon Composite) Kit
1 x Carbon Composite Spare Wheel Mount
8.10 Crash Helmet Net
The crash helmet net is placed behind the seats and hung from the rollcage.

Chapter 9 - Exterior
9.1 Front Wheel Mudflaps
Parts Required
1 x LH Front Wheel Mudflap

1 x RH Front Wheel Mudflap
6 x M6 X 16mm Hex Head Bolts
4 x M6 Nyloc Nut
4 x M6 Flat Washer
4 x 3mm X 10mm Standard Rivet
2 x M6 Anchor Nut
80mm
25mm

60mm
15mm
15mm
40mm
Drill Ø6mm holes through the mudflaps in the positions indicated in the photos. Use the drilled
mudflaps as templates to mark the hole positions for the fixing in the shell and drill clearance
holes for the anchor nuts. Use an anchor nut as a template to drill the Ø3mm holes for the rivets.
Attach the mudflaps to the anchor nuts using the M6 bolts washers.

9.2 Rear Wheel Mudflaps
Parts Required
1 x LH Rear Mudflap
1 x RH Rear Mudflap
8 x M6 Nylock Nuts
6 x M6 Penny Washer
4 x M6 Flat Washer
1 x Cable tie
Cable Tie
190mm
13mm in from 110mm
edge
10mm
160mm
32mm in from
edge
The rear mudflap requires drilling at the positions indicated, using a Ø6mm drill. Use the drilled
mudflap as a template and mark the shell and bumper.
Using a Ø6mm drill, drill through marked positions and fix mud flap to the inner arch and bumper
using the M6 nuts, bolts and washers.
The top of the mudflap should be secured in place using a cable tie through 2 Ø5mm holes.

9.3 Roof Vent
Roof Vent Kit
2 x Roof Vent
1 x RH Vent
1 x LH Vent
Roof Scoop Fittings:
(Recommended)
10 x 3mm X 8mm Countersunk Rivets
10 x 3mm Flat Washers
Vent Fittings:
6 x M5 X 40 Hex Head Bolts

6 x 25mm Spacers
6 x M5 Nyloc Nuts

Vent ‘Eyeball’
Vent Locations
Ø78mm Holes
340mm
340mm
115mm
Using a Ø78mm hole cutter, drill through the roof skin. Position the vent ‘eyeball’ into the hole
with the hinge running parallel to the windscreen. Place the straight edge perpendicular to the
hinge direction, parallel with the LH (LH vent), RH (RH vent) of the car. Mark the three mounting
hole positions, drill Ø5.2mm and fix the vent ‘eyeball’ using the spacers as shown.

Vents Fixed In Position

Roof Scoops
Roof Scoop Drilling Locations
330mm
30mm
Drill Ø3mm holes in the middle of the mounting flanges at the locations shown. This should be
done for both roof scoops.

Roof Scoop Positions
Place the roof scoops in position 4mm back from the windscreen positioned over the internal
vents and equally spaced from the centre line of the roof, as shown in the photo above. Use the
holes drilled in the mounting flange as the template to drill through the roof skill once you are
happy with the positioning of the roof scoops.
The roof scoops can now be riveted to the roof skill with a layer of sikaflex or equivalent sealer.

9.4 Rear Beam Protection (Back Flaps)
Rear Beam Protection (Back Flaps) Kit
1 x RH Back Flap
1 x LH Back Flap
4 x 5mm X 16mm Large Flange Rivets
2 x M8 Flat Washers
2 x M8 Nyloc Nuts

Backflap Hole Positions
15mm
50mm
25mm
Ø5mm
Ø8mm
95mm 35mm
RH and LH Backflaps are drilled in the same positions.

The Backflaps are fixed to the rear beam and the chassis in front of the rear beam.
The rear of the Backflap should to attached to the rear beam under the spring pan through the
existing hole shown above.
With the Backflap still attached to the rear beam the front must be secured, using rivets and
washers, to the chassis making sure there is enough slack in the flap to allow the rear swing arm
to move through all its travel.

Backflap Fixed in Position

9.5 Sumpguard Side Flaps
Sump Guard Side Flap Kit
1 x RH Side Flap
1 x LH side Flap
4 x Slide Latch
4 x Slide Latch Bush
10 x 5mm X 10mm CSK Rivet
10 x M5 Penny Washer
4 x 3mm X 6mm STD Rivet
4 x M3 Flat Washers
2 x 5mm X 12mm STD Rivet
2 x M5 Flat Washer

Side Flap Mounting Hole Locations
10mm
Ø5mm
6 Places
60mm
207mm
10mm
90mm
35mm
47mm
To Fit Slide
Latch
Drill the mounting holes in the side flaps at positions shown.

Place the sideflap onto the sumpguard as shown above with a 20mm overlap down the edge.
Mark the hole positions and drill Ø5mm. Rivet together from the underneath of the sumpguard
then through the sideflap.
Once the sideflaps are attached to the sumpguard, fit the sumpguard to the car. Mark the hole
centre of the slide latch bush using the sideflap as your template, drill and attach the slide latch
bushes to the car.

9.6 Air Horn
Air Horn Kit
2 x Trumpets
1 x Compressor
1 x Air Hose
2 x M5 X 25mm Bolt
2 x M5 Nut
1 x M6 X15mm Bolt
1 x M6 Nut
2 x Plastic Mounting Brackets

The air horn compressor is fitted at the front of the car, outside of the LH inner wing, below the
chassis leg. The horn wiring shown is part of the Group N Auxiliary Loom.
The trumpet is fitted onto the LH of the radiator shroud using an existing hole, facing towards the
LH of the car. The air hose is fed down the inner wing and directly to the trumpet.

Trumpet Fixed in Position

9.7 Wheel Scrapers
The Wheel Scraper can be assembled from the kit of parts before it is fitted to the car. The kit is
universal, with the support bracket and scraper being suitable for either side of the car.
Wheel Scraper – Front View
The pictures show the scraper fitted to the left-hand side of the car, however for fitment to the
right hand side, the scraper and bracket should be reversed as a mirror image of that shown.
Note that the mounting holes used by the bracket should be the two nearest to the centre of
the car.

Wheel Scraper – Rear View
In order for the scraper to be fitted to the car, two ∅8mm holes must be drilled into the rear
suspension trailing arms. The position of these holes is shown below, and should be mirrored for
fitment to the other side of the car.
65mm
30mm
46mm
30mm
The M8 bolts can then be used to fit the scraper to the car. If the weld on the trailing arm
protrudes significantly, an M8 flat washer can be fitted between the bracket and the car, if
required.

9.8 Exterior Trims
The exterior trims need to be more securely attached to the car than just the standard fittings.
Countersunk
Rivet
The plastic sills should be riveted on inside the door shuts using three rivets, one at each end
and one in the middle.
The plastic bumper inserts should secured in place using small cable ties through holes drilled in
both the bumper and insert around the joining lip.

9.9 Lamp Pod
Parts Required
1 x Composite Lamp Pod

4 x Hella 3000 Lamps + Fixings
1 x Wiring Loom
2 x Slide Latches & Bushes
1 x Stay Bar + Fixings

Lamp Pod Slide Latch
Fix a slide latch onto the flanges on the back of the lamp pod as shown above using
countersunk rivets from the underside to leave a flat surface.
Bonnet Slide Latch Bushes
Line up the Lamp Pod on the bonnet and mark up using the slide latch locations the positions for
the slide latch bushes on the bonnet. Install the bushes using anchor nuts fixed to the back of
the bonnet. Now position and adjust the stay bar on the front of the lamp pod. Install the ball joint
onto the bumper beneath the Ford badge.

Lamp Pod Wiring
The Wiring for the lamp pod is incorporated in the Group N Auxiliary wiring loom and the socket
for the lamp pod should have been located near the back of the left hand inner wing. The Loom
from the lamp pod can now be run along the side of the bonnet to this socket. Cable tie saddles
should be installed around the edge of the bonnet to secure the Lamp Pod loom when the
Lamp Pod is installed.

Chapter 10 Wheels and Tyres
10.1 Wheels
OZ Aluminium Rally Racing Wheel 6” X 15” Gravel

OZ Aluminium Super Tourismo Wheel 7” X 17” Tarmac
Gravel 15” Tarmac 17”
Both Tarmac and Gravel wheel nuts should be tightened to 90Nm of Torque
10.2 Tyres
For tyres contact M-Sport.

Chapter 11 Transmission
11.1 Up-rated Clutch fitting
1 x Up-rated Clutch Drive Plate
In order to install the up-rated clutch drive plate a special ford clutch-aligning tool should be
used.
Aligner, Clutch Disk, Ford Part No. 308-204 (16-067)

Removal
If fitted remove the standard clutch disc and pressure

plate loosening the pressure plate retaining bolts 2 turns
at a time in the sequence shown.
Note: Do not reuse the bolts!
Installation
Using the special tool, centralize the clutch disc on

the pressure plate.
Using the special tool, install the clutch disc and pressure
plate.
CAUTION: Tighten the clutch pressure plate retaining bolts

finger tight and then evenly by two turns at a time in the
sequence shown to the specified torque using new bolts.
Remove the special tool.

11.2 Dog Engagement Gear Kit (5 Speed) incl. Plated LSD
Your new (or nearly new), standard Fiesta ST150 gearbox is exchanged for the 5 Speed Dog
Engagement Gear Kit. This includes a plated Limited Slip Differential, and fits as a direct
replacement for your standard Ford Gearbox.
Caution! Please note transmissions are supplied without oil in them.
Clutchless Gear Changes
The Group N Fiesta ST gearbox is a full competition unit that allows clutchless gear changes to
be made. However using the clutch, especially when changing up to 2nd gear and on all down
changes, will significantly increase the life of the gearbox. In addition to this on loose and other
slippery road surfaces the clutch must be used when changing up to 2nd and 3rd gears and on all
down shift. Clutchless gear changes should only be attempted by drivers who are experienced
in this technique.
Gear Change Lever Stud Installation
In some cases it has been found that the gear linkage stud on the gearbox casing can vibrate
loose. All gearboxes from 18/01/06 onwards have had the stud fitted using loctite 648 and been
tightened to 50 Nm of torque.
Pre 18/01/06 boxes - remove the stud and refit using loctite.
Remove the circlip shown above in order to take the lever off the stud.

Remove the stud using a 22mm spanner. Clean the treads and apply locktite 648. Refit the stud
to a torque of 50Nm and refit the lever to the stud ensuring the circlip is properly engaged.

11.3 Up-rated Roll Resistor Gearbox Mount
Roll Resistor Bush Kit
1 x Roll Resistor Bush
The up-rated roll resistor bush is a direct replacement of the Ford standard roll resistor and
pressed into the mount as shown. The should be pressed in, chamfered edge first until the back
edge is flush with the casing and the chamfer is protruding out the other side.
The standard smaller bush at the other end should also be removed and rotated 90°.

Chapter 12 - Fiesta Group N Recommended Setup
12.1 Fluids
Engine Oil Castrol TWS 10W/60

Transmission Oil TAF-X 75W/90
Power Steering Fluid Castrol Transmax - z
Brake Fluid Castrol SRF
12.2 Suspension Setup
Setup Table
Surface Gravel Tarmac TD(GD)

Front/Rear Front Rear Front Rear
Ride Height (mm) 20 N/A 30 N/A
Damper Settings 12 10 12 (7) 12(7)
Toe (mm) -1 -1 -2 -2
TD = Tarmac Damper
GD = Gravel Damper
Notes
Ride Heights - This relates to the distance between the spring pan and the top of the threaded
portion of the damper body. The actual height achieved will vary depending on the weight of the
car. Please note that the ride height must be above the minimum stated in the homologation
papers shown below. Only the front ride height is adjustable as the spring length determines the
rear ride height.

Damper Settings - The settings refer to the number of clicks when turning the adjuster knob. The
clicks are counted by winding the adjuster knob all the way in then counting back the required
number. The damper setting in brackets under tarmac refers to the recommended setup when
a gravel damper is being used on a tarmac surface.

Notes
For more details, please contact:
M-Sport Ltd.
Dovenby Hall,
Cockermouth, Cumbria
CA13 0PN
UK
Tel: +44 (0) 1900 828 888

Fax: +44 (0) 1900 823 823
E-Mail: info@m-sport.co.uk

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FordFiesta ST Gp.

Version 1.0 February 2006

Tools and Consumables 1

Chapter 1 Shell Preparation 2

1.1 Bolt-In Roll Cage 2

Chapter 2 Shell Build 42

2.1 Bodyshell Sealing 42

Chapter 3 Steering, Suspension & Mounts 65

3.1 Rear Beam Bushes 65

Chapter 4 Braking System 74

4.1 ABS Unit 74

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual I

5.1 Fuel Kit 88

Chapter 6 Group N Electrical 106

6.1 Group N Auxiliary Loom 106

Chapter 7 Engine 130

7.1 Uprated Engine Mount RH 130

Chapter 8 Interior 138

8.1 Seat Rails 138

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual II

9.1 Front Wheel Mudflaps 156

Chapter 10 Wheels 180

10.1 Wheels 180

Chapter 11 Transmission 181

11.1 Up-rated Clutch Fitting 181

Chapter 12 Recommended Setup 186

12.1 Fluids 186

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual III

This Build Manual is to be used as a guide only.

 Sikaflex / Silicone sealant

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 1

Chapter 1 - Shell Preparation

1.1 Bolt-In Rollcage

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 2

Stripped Shell - Passenger Compartment

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 3

Main Hoop in Position

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 4

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 5

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 6

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 7

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 8

Tack weld the front reinforcing plates into position.

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 9

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 10

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 11

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 12

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 13

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 14

Weld the corner triangulation section into position.

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 15

Weld the top hat into position.

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 16

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 17

Finished Cage Installation

M10 = 53Nm (Cage to Shell Bolts)

Fiesta ST Gp.N – Build Manual 18

1.3 Welded Seat Rail Mounting

1 x Drivers Front Seat Rail

Sikaflex / Silicone sealant