Assembly Instructions: Victory Art.

776

STEP 40: Assembling the Masts

Refer to Plan 5 for the detailed part drawings of the masts and spars (P3, etc.).

Bowsprit. Assemble parts n.92 (caps), n.93 (bow bitts, to be shaped as described in step 34), n.94
(mast support) and n.95 (small deck or ‘marine walk’) with photo-etched plate 95L. Cut the bowsprit
opening on the bow deck. Assemble all the parts using instant glue in accordance with the details on
Plan 5. Fit parts n.96 and add the side stiffeners made from 2x6 Walnut plank. Fit the dolphin striker,
the sprit flagpole and the bow outriggers as shown on Plan 5. Varnish all parts. Fit flanges (Part 3)
and rigging eyes (item A) as shown. Following the side view on Plan 6, drill through the ram and lash
(gammon) the bowsprit to the ram and herpe deck with medium rope. Secure knots with instant glue.
Assembling the Masts
 Fix the side reinforcement made from 2x6 Walnut plank and the front reinforcement made from 2x2
Walnut plank to all three lower masts. Assemble the flanges made from 0.3x2 copper strip on the
lower masts as shown in Part 3.
 Fit reinforcement planks on the upper foremast and upper mainmast using 0.5x3 Walnut planks as
shown in Part 4.
 Shape the ends of the lower foremast, mainmast, and mizzenmast into tenons and fit them into the
holes in the mast caps (parts 107, 100 and 111 respectively) as shown in sketch Part 4.
 Taking the dimensions and positions from Plan 5, fit the masts into the mast caps, joining the lower
mast, topmast and topgallant mast sections and checking that the masts are aligned vertically and
that the lower masts are aligned to face the bow.
 Fit the support cheeks plywood parts n.98 and n.97 and n.98 respectively to the sides of the three
lower masts. Fit the trestle-trees (n.108A, n.101A and n.112A on top of the cheeks. Fit the cross-
trees – the cross-structure that supports the platforms (tops) using parts n.108B, 101B and 112B.
 The tops (platforms) are made from plywood parts n.106, n.104 and n.105 respectively, covered on
both sides with 0.5x3 Walnut strips. Using sketch Part 5 as a guide, drill 1 holes in the tops for
the deadeye rigging. Drill 1 holes in the rear (straight) side of the tops and fit stanchions and rope
handrails. On the mainmast top, fit a small lantern (item 89) on a bracket (item 89L). Glue the tops
accurately in place on the cross-trees taking care to align the tops with the centre-line of the hull,
and ensuring that equal space is left on each side between the top and the masts through which the
shrouds will pass.
 With reference to the sketch Part 7, fit support cheeks (n.99 and n.98), trestle-trees (n.109, 102 and
114) and cross-trees (made from 1x2 Walnut plank) around the joints between the topgallant and
upper masts, ensuring that all mast items are aligned.
 Drill and fit rigging pintles and brass rings into the rear of the lower mast caps.
 Trial-fit the masts into the deck and make adjustments to the deck holes as necessary to get a
perfect vertical alignment of all three masts as viewed from the stern. Use the scale side view to
align the masts with the positions on the drawing, noting the slight backward rake of the masts.
Remove the masts and slide the base of each mast into a mast foot – parts n.116, 117 and 118
respectively. Glue the masts in place ensuring that the masts align with the centre-line of the ship
and using slivers of wood as wedges if necessary. Trim off any excess slivers and glue the mast
feet in place with a drop of instant glue. Set aside to dry.

STEP 41
Yards. Add yard fenders made from 0.5x3 Walnut plank to all the yards as shown in Part 6. Take the
dimensions from Plan 5. Sand the joints smooth and varnish over. Drill the ends of the yards and fit
brass eyelets to act as yardarm irons as shown in Part 9. Fit footrope irons made from thin brass wire
as shown in Part 10 in the positions shown on the yard drawings on Plan 5. Make the footropes from
0.75 rope and secure the ropes in a ‘drooped’ state with drops of instant glue.

Mizzen Gaff and Boom. Fit the jaws to the ends of these spars as shown in Part 8 and secure them
around the mizzenmast as shown.

Fit the flagpole in the stern holder.

Fit all the remaining rigging points (pintles and rings) shown on Plan 5 and Plan 6.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

STEP 42
Plan 6 shows the side view of the model with standing and running rigging. Before fixing the yards to the
masts, fit the various blocks to the masts and spars as shown on Plan 6.

The rigging plan is shown at the top of Plan 6 with the numbered belaying points identified and uses the
same numbering as the main drawing on Plan 6. The ends of the ropes should be stiffened with instant
glue for easier insertion through the small holes in the blocks. Each knot must be secured with a drop of
glue to prevent the knots coming loose.

The key on the lower left of Plan 6 identifies the following items:

A: Single 3 mm block D: Single 7 mm block G: 0.25 mm rope

B: Single 5 mm block E: Double 7 mm block H: 0.75 mm rope

C: Double 5 mm block F: Triple 7 mm block I: 1.75 mm rope

STEP 43
Deadeyes and Chain Plates. The deadeye links are inserted
through the holes in the channels and the chain plates are
nailed to the hull as shown in the sketch P.11. The deadeyes
for the shrouds use two chain links and larger deadeyes,
whilst those for the stays use single chain links and smaller
deadeyes. The sizes are indicated in the side view on Plan 6.
Note also that the chain plate assemblies each slant slightly
differently toward the masts to line up the rigging (shrouds)
correctly. Secure each chain plate foot to the hull with both
glue and a brass nail.

RIGGING
The rigging is divided into two main parts. The standing
rigging {the lines that hold the masts permanently to the deck)
is represented by the darker lines on Plan 6 and is added first.
The running rigging (those lines that were used to manoeuvre
the spars) is represented by the thinner lines on the plan and
is added next. Make the rigging tight, but not so tight as to
deform the masts or spars.

Step 44: Standing Rigging.

Part 12: Lower Shroud Lines. These are the ropes securing
the masts via the deadeyes. Make these from 0.75 thread
and secure them to the masts using ‘seized’ loops as shown
in the diagram opposite. Pass the ends down through the
side gaps between the platform and mast and fit deadeyes to
the free ends as shown, taking the measurements from Plan
6. The deadeyes are tensioned against the deadeyes on the
channels using thin thread as shown in Part 11 above. Make
the shrouds tight, but not so tight as to deform the masts.

Part 13: Top Shroud Deadeyes. Fit deadeyes for the top
shrouds with medium thread as shown in Part 13. Tie the
threads off to the lower shroud lines as shown.

Part 14: Top Shrouds and Topgallant Shrouds. Rig the

top-shrouds as shown, using medium thread. Drill 1 holes
on the cross trees and fit the topgallant stays as shown using
‘seized loops sitting on the taper of the masts, and tying off
the stays to the top shroud lines as shown in Part 14.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

Part 15: Ratlines. Starting from the bottom of the

shrouds, make and bind the ratlines to the shrouds at
5mm intervals using thin thread – once the shrouds are
tensioned correctly. Secure the end knots with a drop of
instant glue.

Step 45: Mainstays

The method of securing the great ropes used to support
the mainmast is shown here in Part 16. The
mainstays and are made from 1.75 rope. The
ropes are passed up through the holes in the tops,
are passed around the mast and down to the
bowsprit and are tensioned using 7mm blocks.
Secure the knots with drops of instant glue.

Working from bow to stern and following the plan, fit

all the remaining standing rigging - the other ropes
(or stays) used to tension and hold the masts and
bowsprit in position.

Step 46: Fixing the Yard Parrels

Before starting on the numbered running rigging,
fasten the yards to the masts using the methods
shown in Part 17 - lower yards and Part 18 - upper
yards. The mizzen parrels are made with 5 mm
blocks secured to the rigging P. The hauling lines
are made fast to the rigging points on deck.

Note that Plan 6 shows the yards angled fore and aft
for clarity. Of course, these are set square across
the ship (square-rigged) on the completed model, so
that the rigging is equal each side of the ship.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

Step 47: Running Rigging

Part 19 shows how to secure a rigging line to a belaying pin. Note: Tying up the excess lines. Wind a
length of the excess line around a 10mm former and glue it to hold it into a hank. Loop the hank over
the belaying pin, and pull down on the hank to simulate the natural droop of the rope. Glue in position
with instant glue.
Part 20 shows the lifts riggings number 5,6,7 and 8 on Plan 6.

Part 21 shows the brace riggings number 25, 26, 27 and 28 on Plan 6.

Part 22 shows the flag assembly. The flags are secured with drops of instant glue. To give the flag an
appearance of weight and droop in the absence of wind, fold and secure the flag in a draped position
using some thin pins, and then spray the flag with fixer or transparent hair lacquer.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

Part 23 shows the lifeboat davit riggings, made fast to

the mizzenmast number 25, 26, 27 and 28 on Plan 6.

Figure 41 shows the construction of the outer yard

extensions (or studdingsail booms) for the foremast
and mainmast. The supports are included on the
photo-etched brass sheet. Remove these parts
(121A-B) with a pair of scissors and fix the supports
on the fore and main channels with instant glue. Place
the hook A made from 1mm brass wire into a hole
drilled in the dowel ends. The two 3x175 mm booms
are for the foreyard; the two 4x200 mm booms are for
the mainyard.

STEP 48: Finishing Off

Figure 43: Anchors. . Place the anchor supports
n.122 on the railings behind the forecastle and fix the
hawse-holes parts n.123 on the bow (see Plan 4).
Drill two 3 holes through parts 123 into the hull.

File the four plywood anchor stocks n.124 supplied to

achieve the desired tapers on three faces at each
end. File square the opening into which the upper
shank of the anchor will fit to match the size of the
anchor shaft. Caution: the anchor castings are
brittle and will snap if bent. Secure the stocks on
the anchors, then wind 5 or 6 turns of 0.75 rope in
four places on each stock as shown, fixing the thread
with a little glue. Insert a brass ring through the tail of
each anchor. Tie a length of 0.75 thread to each
anchor ring and bind it with thin thread as shown. Rig
the anchors to the catheads and feed the anchor
ropes through the hawse-holes as shown in figure 42.

Sails are not supplied with this kit and are optional. A
set of ready-made sails for the Victory together with
rigging instructions part number Art 34207 may be
purchased from Mantua Models.

Display Cradle. Assemble the cradle from parts

n.119 and n.120 and two pieces of 14 dowel 300
mm long, Square up and stand the cradle on a flat
surface until set. Varnish with two coats of matt
varnish, sanding lightly between coats. Line the
upper faces of the cradle with thin rubber strips such
as draught excluder (not supplied) to protect the hull.

Place the ship on the cradle and admire a job well done.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

PLANKING INSTRUCTIONS
Newcomers to this fascinating hobby, or those new to the construction of a Mantua Group
period ship model, sometimes have questions when they start to work such as: "How big an
obstacle is the planking? Is it possible to have something additional in the way of equipment or
instructions to help in this most important part? Are there any photographs or diagrams that
may help?" To assist you, we have produced this short instruction sheet in an attempt to
lessen any problems you may encounter.
PLANKING OR THE APPLICATION OF STRIPS
First, a short note on the background. Each vessel was originally clad with large wooden
boards positioned longitudinally or diagonally to the line of the hull, either with one plank
overlapping the next (clinker-built), or planked one adjacent to the next (carvel-built), and
nailed onto the ship’s frames. This covering, in addition to being necessary for buoyancy (after
caulking and sealing the joints) also gave considerable strength to the whole vessel.
In the case of our own models, because of the nature of the materials used, the planking will
be accomplished using not short planks, but with full strips wherever possible, and doubled up
in most cases, as they were in the original vessels. This technique is made possible through
the flexibility and quality of the materials provided. To achieve a high quality finish to the
planking, we suggest the following proven system, which is demonstrated in the diagrams on
the last page.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

The planking operation begins on plan number 1 of each of our model's instructions. The
position of the first plank is shown on a profile of the skeleton structure after assembly. This
reference point normally corresponds to the highest point of the two or three central frames
and coincides with the lowest point of the curve formed by the extreme tops of the frames
themselves. Where required, use a strip bender to curve the plank so that it fits the shape of
the hull.
The first strip applied must be perfectly parallel to the line of the keel and should be fitted at
the bow, the other end projecting beyond the length of the hull as in Fig.1 below. If the ship is
to be double-planked, the initial planks may be glued and lightly pinned to the frames. The pins
are to be removed once the assembly has properly set. Please note that where the upper
sections of the frames are to be removed later, the planks should be pinned only at these
places, i.e. no glue applied.
Proceed in the same manner from the top to bottom, fitting each plank snugly against the
other, checking that they can be positioned easily without having to unduly force or twist the
plank longitudinally. Be sure to cover each side of the hull alternately, working three to
four planks at a time. This avoids twisting the hull.
After a number of these ‘easy’ planks have been fitted, a certain amount of difficulty will be
encountered in placing subsequent strips, as the planks will now want to overlap in some
places. You will now have arrived at the curve or sheer, of the vessel. Planking now requires
a different procedure. All the planks must adhere to, and lie flat against, the frames for their
entire width without curling, twisting or forming strange and unwanted 'ears’. We need to
overlap the new plank on the previously positioned plank, allowing the strips to guide us in
determining at what point the overlapping is to begin at each end. Position this overlapping
plank without gluing onto the central two or three frames of the hull (see Fig.2), holding the
ends down with your fingertips, mark both ends where they overlap, with a pencil. Cut along
the lines drawn, using a sharp craft knife (see Fig.3).
Reposition the cut strip on the hull, fitting it snugly against the preceding plank, making slight
adjustments to the angled cut as necessary, to ensure an exact fit. Now glue and pin the
trimmed plank into position. Proceed with this method working towards the bottom of the hull
i.e. towards the keel. Note that if this operation is carried out with due care, the planking will
create the beauty of a wood inlay as the pieces fit together smoothly.
After proceeding in this manner for a while, we arrive at a point where the strips begin to leave
a space (rather than overlapping). Irregular shaped spaces appear at the bow and stern ends
of the strips as we position them alongside the preceding strips. Even in this case, let the strip
itself guide you. Fix the strip into position, letting it follow it's own natural curve. The spaces
that are left, normally acute triangles, will be filled later with segments of strip carefully cut to
shape (see Fig.4).
After the lower portion of the hull has been completely covered, proceed to cover the upper
areas along the upper deck parapets (if this is relevant to your model), leaving the ends of the
strips extending beyond the parapet line. This will be trimmed away later to achieve the correct
outline when measured against your drawings (see Fig. 5).
After the application of the first layer of planking over the entire hull, it will be necessary to
smooth down the surface, removing the inevitable remains of excess glue, and leveling off any
small imperfections in the planked surface.
Having finished the surface to your satisfaction, if you are working on a kit that is double
planked, proceed to apply the second and final layer of planking. This will be the layer that is
visible. Having gained the skills carrying out the first level, you should now be well able to
ensure that the quality of the second layer is of a high standard. The second planking will
follow the same process, and, assuming a good level of preparation, should be somewhat
easier.
In some instances, strakes or rubbing boards that stand proud of the planking should be fitted
to the first level of planking, where indicated on the drawings. However the instructions may
well direct you to fit them after the second-level planking has been completed.

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 Assembly Instructions: Victory Art. 776

FINISHING
When the final planking has been completed and the glue is fully set, the next task is to
smooth the entire hull. We suggest the use of a scraper, a small wood plane (set fine) and
various grades of sandpaper. At this point, after having trimmed off the excess planking,
according to the general profile at the parapet line, proceed to install the handrails and the
gunwales, fixed on the outside of the hull.
For the handrails, since they will be placed flat it will be necessary, especially at the bow and
stern sections, to cut the strips into small angled (trapezoidal) sections in order to follow the
curve of the hull (see Fig 6). The joints between these sections should be carefully sanded to
make them as invisible as possible and to achieve a smooth, continuous curve.
For the gunwales, the strips will be fixed "edge on". The thickness of the strips (usually 2mm.)
means that it will be necessary to pre-form them to fit the curves. We suggest the following
methods to achieve the desired curve. i) If only a slight curve is required, use a standard plier-
type plank bender. If a deeper curve is needed, ii) soak the strip in very hot water for a minute
or two, then carefully bend and hold the strip in position against the hull or over an object of
the right shape until set. Alternatively, iii) wet the strip and use a wheel-type bender. When
the strip dries out it will be stabilized and can be placed into position. If a number of these are
needed, build a jig to save time and increase accuracy.
At this stage, after ensuring the main decks are properly positioned, cut out the sections of the
frames that are visible above the decks (extending up to the parapet tops), and smooth them
off level with the deck surface. Proceed to plank the inside faces of the bulwarks, covering the
inside of the first layer of white planks. Carefully smooth this planking using progressively finer
grades of sandpaper.
The foregoing briefly describes the subject of planking in an effort to assist the beginner with
what appears to be a rather daunting task but which can become a very satisfying
achievement. The rest "as they say" is up to you. Take your time; use your own skill and
ingenuity to develop your own methods having considered our suggestions.

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